Room wiring. Electrical wiring diagram in the apartment: electrical wiring for different rooms
Many houses still have electrical wiring from Soviet times that has long failed to meet modern safety requirements. It was intended for only 4 kW, while now when designing it is necessary to calculate the wiring for 10 kW and above. New cables and wires can be installed, but the work is labor-intensive and complex. Installation of electrical wiring in a private house and apartment is done with your own hands only when a clear plan has been drawn up and there are step-by-step instructions.
DIY electrical wiring installation
Replacing wiring
If the electrical wiring in an apartment is made with your own hands from aluminum wire, its service life will be no more than 20 years. Do-it-yourself electrical wiring with new lines is only possible when the apartment is being renovated.
First of all, you need to think about the power and number of devices. The layout of the lighting system, sockets and junction boxes depends on many factors, in particular on how furniture, windows and doors are located in the apartment. An accurate wiring diagram must be created. The work stages should be as follows:
- Electrical wiring design: drawing up a diagram; selection of brands and sections of wires, protective devices and illumination of each room.
- Wall chipping; wiring; connection of cores in distribution boxes; installation of an apartment panel, installation of automatic machines in it and connection of an external network cable; checking the wiring.
- Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps; connecting electrical appliances that do not contain sockets.
Electrical wiring project
The comfort and safety of using electrical appliances depends on a quality design.
Scheme development
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring installation can be done efficiently only when there is a power supply diagram for the apartment.
House power supply diagram
In the figure, the external wiring in the entrance panel is highlighted with a dotted line: grounding, main circuit breaker and RCD. Not a single power supply scheme for a house or apartment can do without an electricity consumption meter (E).
The phase and neutral wires are crossed out with two dashes. The protective conductor must be laid separately. Three-phase input is indicated by three dashes. Group machines are located in the panel. Separate lines with protection are made for the bathroom, electric stove and heater. You can choose the brand of RCD at your discretion.
In addition to the power supply diagram, electrical wiring is installed independently when there is an electrical diagram that is superimposed on the apartment plan and includes the following elements:
- switches;
- sockets;
- lamps;
- distribution boxes;
- apartment panel;
- terminals for connecting electrical equipment: forced ventilation systems, air conditioners, ovens, etc.;
- location of wiring laid through the premises.
The figure below shows a typical electrical wiring design.
Electrical scheme for a two-room apartment
The wiring diagram determines all repairs for the following reasons:
- any competent repair can and should be done with changing the wiring;
- subsequent work will not allow changing anything in the electrical part;
- high-quality repairs include effective lighting and convenient placement of sockets, switches and electrical appliances.
If electrical wiring is installed correctly, there will be no carriers, extension cords, or power adapters on the floor. When the repair is done correctly, there should be no mobile electricity transfer devices in the apartment. The exception is when connecting to power tool outlets.
If we consider the distribution of sockets in rooms, then the installation plan is mostly chosen very approximately and not always correctly. It is best to take them to different ends of the room. In this case, you need to draw up a plan in advance for the location of electrical equipment and furniture so that sockets and switches that require constant access are not blocked. If this does not happen, it means the wiring has been done correctly and the outlets are being used optimally. In this case, you will have to run new wires over expensive wall decoration.
You need at least two sockets for the TV, since it will require additional set-top boxes: digital or satellite, as well as video players.
At least three outlets must be installed for the computer and all the equipment necessary for it. Their height from the floor is now 30-40 cm. Thanks to this, the sockets are not visible from behind a table or sofa, which is aesthetically pleasing and practical. This means that the old openings will have to be walled up and new ones made, and a channel will need to be built to them.
Maximum energy consumption occurs in the kitchen. Separate cables must be laid for an electric oven, microwave oven and washing machine, since the power of each electrical appliance exceeds 1.5 kW.
An RCD is connected to each of these devices.
The work area requires a whole block of outlets, since the number of auxiliary electrical equipment is growing every year. For a small kitchen, two sockets will be enough, since many appliances will not fit there. It is convenient to place them above the tables so that they can be easily turned on. We also need to make sockets for electric ignition of gas burners and an additional exhaust fan.
The refrigerator only needs one outlet, to which you can easily connect. If any stationary electrical appliance is built into a cabinet, then it is convenient to use a separate machine located in the control panel. This will be a reliable guarantee that the connections will not short out if water enters.
The design transformation plan should not negatively affect the electrical safety of the premises. In an unexpected situation, designers will never be to blame. If the electrical wiring is done incorrectly, the person who had to install it is responsible for this.
Wire selection
Wires and cables are laid in walls (hidden wiring) or in boxes and pipes (open). Cable routing is allowed to be open, but they are more often placed behind partitions or in auxiliary rooms.
The most used cable for home electrical wiring is VVG or VVGng (less commonly, PUNP and NYM).
It is better to connect to the floor panel with an NYM cable, as it is more reliable in terms of fire safety. Despite its high cost, it is often used as a power cable when installing electrical wiring in a private house or apartment. It will not prevent them from replacing the cheap and fire-hazardous VVG input, for example, in a new building.
The VVGng cable does not propagate combustion due to the use of fire-resistant plastic compound. It is convenient to use for laying if it has a flat shape.
PUNP is the cheapest flat wire with 2-3 cores. It has insulation that loses its properties when heated. It is not recommended to include it in the home electrical solutions plan.
It is better to make the internal wiring of the shield using wires PV2, PV3 and PV4 with a diameter of 4 mm. To install the wiring, you will need plastic boxes, clamps, corrugated hoses and distribution boxes. It is advisable to purchase skirting boards with cable channels.
The entire load of the apartment or house falls on the input cable. Its cross-section is determined depending on the total power of all electricity consumers. Multiplying it by the utilization factor - 0.75, we find the power consumption. It is also necessary to take into account the reactive power consumed by the washing machine motor. To do this, its power is divided by the coefficient cos φ = 0.85. It should be taken into account that the water heater in the washing machine is an active and significantly predominant load. If fluorescent lamps are used, their reactive power is also taken into account (cos φ = 0.8).
When doing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands, you should take into account the reactive load, here there is much more of it than in an apartment: asynchronous motors of machines and pumps (cos φ = 0.85), welding transformer (cos φ = 0.5-0.7) , power tools.
Having established the total power in each circuit, using the table you can select a wire or cable of a suitable cross-section. At the same time, a reserve is made for possible additional connections in the future.
Table for selecting the cross-section of a copper conductor based on power consumption or current
| Section, sq. mm | Core diameter, mm | Power/current | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| One wire PV-1 or PV-3, kW/A | Two wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A | Three wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A | Four wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A | One two- | One three- conductor cable VVG, PVS or PUNGP, kW/A |
||
| 0.5 | 0.79 | 2,2 / 10 | 1,98 / 9 | 1,76 / 8 | 1,54 / 7 | 1,76 / 8 | 1,54 / 7 |
| 0.75 | 0.97 | 2,86 / 13 | 2,64 / 12 | 2,42 / 11 | 2,2 / 10 | 2,42 /11 | 2,2 / 10 |
| 1 | 1.13 | 3,3 / 15 | 3,08 / 14 | 2,86 / 13 | 2,64 / 12 | 2,86 / 13 | 2,64 / 12 |
| 1.5 | 1.38 | 4,4 / 20 | 3,74 / 17 | 3,3 / 15 | 3,08 / 14 | 3,52 / 16 | 2,86 / 13 |
| 2.5 | 1.78 | 5,94 / 27 | 5,28 / 24 | 4,84 / 22 | 4,84 / 22 | 4,84 / 22 | 4,18 / 19 |
| 4 | 2.25 | 7,92 / 36 | 7,48 / 34 | 6,82 / 31 | 5,94 / 27 | 6,16 / 28 | 5,28 / 24 |
| 6 | 2.76 | 10,12 / 46 | 9,02 / 41 | 8,14 / 37 | 7,7 / 35 | 7,7 / 35 | 6,6 / 30 |
| 10 | 3.57 | 15,4 / 70 | 13,2 / 60 | 12,1 / 55 | 9,9 / 45 | 11 / 50 | 9,9 / 45 |
| 16 | 4.51 | 19,8 / 90 | 16,5 / 75 | 15,4 / 70 | 14,3 / 65 | 15,4 / 70 | 13,2 / 60 |
| 25 | 5.64 | 27,5 / 125 | 22 / 100 | 19,8 / 90 | 17,6 / 80 | 19,8 / 90 | 16,5 / 75 |
| 35 | 6.67 | 33 / 150 | 26,4 / 120 | 24,2 / 110 | 22 / 100 | 24,2 / 110 | 19,8 / 90 |
| 50 | 7.98 | 41,8 / 190 | 36,3 / 165 | 33 / 150 | 29,7 / 135 | 30,8 / 140 | 26,4 / 120 |
| 70 | 9.44 | 52,8 / 240 | 44 / 200 | 40,7 / 185 | 36,3 / 165 | 38,5 / 175 | 34,1 / 155 |
| 95 | 11 | 63,8 / 290 | 53,9 / 245 | 49,5 / 225 | 44 / 200 | 47,3 / 215 | 41,8 / 190 |
| 120 | 12.36 | 74,8 / 340 | 61,6 / 280 | 56,1 / 255 | 50,6 / 230 | 57,2 / 260 | 48,4 / 220 |
Protective equipment is selected for the cable. If it can withstand a current of 25 A, then the RCD or circuit breaker is set to 16 A.
The power of the electricity consumption meter and the maximum consumption of electrical appliances must correspond to each other, otherwise the system will be de-energized. The characteristics of the meter indicate what energy consumption it is designed for.
Lighting selection
Illumination is measured in lux (lm/m2). The figure below shows indoor lighting standards.
Residential lighting standards
When installing electrical wiring in an apartment, it is necessary to include in the work plan the possibility of using additional lighting. In the bedroom or living room it is used to highlight interior details and zoning rooms. It has nothing to do with lighting standards, but sockets with easy access must be installed for it. In the kitchen, lighting is done in cabinets, as well as in the work and dining areas. There should be light in the bathroom where the washing machine is located or near the mirror. Switches and sockets are used with moisture protection.
Wiring
The plan for laying hidden wiring provides for its placement in grooves or under plaster. It is secured with plastic clamps every 0.4-0.5 m. For new distribution boxes, recesses are prepared and installed using alabaster. Old ones are also partially used if they are on the route. External wiring is placed in cable channels.
The laying is done strictly horizontally and vertically. Then there will be less chance of a self-tapping screw hitting the wire when drilling holes in the wall.
The ends of the wires inserted into the box are stripped and connected as required by the diagram. It is advisable to make connections using terminal blocks, soldering or crimping. Twisting is considered a temporary connection, but it can be further modified.
The entire electrical circuit and how the wiring will work in a private house or apartment depend on the distribution panel. It is placed near the front door. If the wall is made of plasterboard, choose a built-in version of the shield, and on reinforced concrete, install an external one. The location is made at a low height (about 1.5 m). The shield is fastened with dowel-nails or self-tapping screws. Placing the meter in the panel is not required, since it must be installed in the entrance, and in a private house - on an external power supply pole.
You can buy a shield in a store when you know how much equipment you need to put inside, while leaving some spare space. The standard panel contains DIN rail mounting points into which all electrical equipment can be easily inserted and fixed. The connecting wires inside are installed new and without twists. The phases and neutral wire differ in color. If it is the same, markings are made from colored tubes or using inscriptions. For input and output cables, a reserve length of at least 120 mm is left for possible repairs.
The connection of the input cable and the electricity consumption meter is carried out by electrical service specialists.
Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps
The center of the location of the first socket is marked on the wall, and then, if required, after 71 mm the middle of the next one is marked (standard center-to-center distance).
Installation of socket boxes and sockets
Making recesses for a socket box in a concrete wall is a labor-intensive process that requires a hammer drill with a special crown. Then grooves are made through them, and electrical wiring is laid. The best solution is to run separate wires to each outlet. A plug for the wires is cut out in the socket box and checked to see how it fits into the hole in the wall. Then the hole is primed, and a gypsum-based putty mixture is applied inside. Afterwards, the socket box, together with the wires inserted into it, is pressed strictly horizontally into the solution. The installation box should be flush with the wall surface. The grooves and gaps around the socket boxes are covered with plaster mortar only after they are completely fixed.
Sockets are installed with screws or self-tapping screws after the wall repairs and finishing are completed. In this case, the voltage in the supply wires is turned off. After installing the frames and panels of sockets, the supply of electricity is restored.
Plastic socket boxes can be used to install switches. Their installation is done in the same way.
Sockets in plasterboard construction are easy to install due to the fact that the material is well processed. Frame systems allow for hidden installation of communications with any number of wires.
Lighting fixtures are evenly distributed throughout the room. The classic solution is to hang a chandelier in the middle of the room. When installing it, you need to know that now it is necessary to connect a grounding wire to chandeliers and fluorescent lamps. When installing a stretch ceiling or a plasterboard ceiling, the chandelier is attached to the base through embedded elements. It seems that she is floating in the air.
Placing a chandelier on a suspended ceiling
Recently, spotlights that are placed in a suspended ceiling have become popular. Even before finishing it, it is necessary to determine the installation locations of the devices. It is rational to place the lamps at a distance of at least 1 m from each other, and 60 cm from the wall. However, they should not fall on the frame parts. The wiring is located between the base of the floor and the suspended ceiling.
Installation. Video
This video will tell you about installing electrical wiring in an apartment.
If you consistently go through all the stages from design to installation, then you can successfully do the electrical wiring in your apartment with your own hands. Such work should be included in the plan for the next repair and should be performed first. Step-by-step instructions are used for this. The convenience, reliability and durability of the electrical system depend on how correctly the circuit is drawn up, how the equipment was calculated, on the quality of the components and compliance with all norms and regulations.
The convenience and comfort of modern life largely depend on electricity. In every house or apartment, several household electrical appliances must be used at once to provide lighting, hot water supply, heating, food preservation, air conditioning and ventilation. For reliable operation of electrical appliances, proper electrical wiring is necessary. Each owner has the right to decide how household appliances will be placed in his home, and where sockets and switches should be located to connect them. But the question is, is it worth using the services of professional electricians when installing electrical wiring, or can you do the electrical wiring in the apartment yourself?
Where to start installing electrical wiring in an apartment
Work on installing electrical wiring in an apartment or other residential premises should always begin the same way - with drawing up an electrical wiring plan. And that's why. Let's say you made a renovation without really thinking about the end result. They did it as they wanted.
We rearranged the furniture and arranged the household electronics. So what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets were in “cold reserve”: one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers, and a fourth by a bedside table. Even to connect a TV and favorite stereo system, as per the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters.
And here begins a very fun and exciting game called “Scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment.” The question arises: why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Imagine how much money and nerves can be wasted.
Wiring plan
Let's say you have an apartment in a new building, which still needs to be renovated before you move in.
Electrical work in an apartment is usually done first. Before starting electrical work, it is advisable to have a wiring plan. In the simplest version, it can be done by hand on a sheet of paper.
Drawing a wiring plan
So, you consulted with your household and made your decision. Now all the ideas and plans need to be transferred to paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example.
- To complete the scheme we need:
- notebook sheet;
- ruler;
- pen;
- colored pencils or markers.
The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions are required, just a general picture.
An example of an apartment wiring plan
- The diagram should show the following elements in as much detail as possible:
- Sockets.
They can be located in any convenient place, but no less than 15–20 cm from door and window openings, as well as 40 cm away from heat and gas pipelines. As for the quantity, it is customary to install one for every 6 m 2 of area socket. - Lighting.
Standard layouts are designed for one large lamp in the center of the ceiling. But you can, if you wish, make additional light sources (spotlights, sconces, night lights), providing wiring for them. - Switches.
Usually they are mounted on the right side of the doorway and at a distance of 60 or 150 cm from the floor. - Cable routes.
When indicating them on your drawing, remember that the wiring must run strictly vertically or horizontally. No zigzags are allowed. If you plan to lay wires inside walls, then you should retreat 15–20 cm from ceilings and openings. - Distribution boxes.
They also need to be shown on the plan because they are where all the major cable connections are made. A box is placed on each branch from the main line, but no more than one per room. - Distribution panel.
Typically, power cabinets are installed outside the apartment in a common corridor. But some layouts are designed for internal placement of the shield, in which case the task will be a little simpler.
Marking
One way or another, between drawing up the plan and starting the rough work, there will be a procedure called “marking”.
In scientific language, marking is the operation of applying lines (scores) to the surface of the workpiece, which, according to the drawing, determine the contours of the part or place to be processed.
At the initial stages of work on distributing electricity in a room, markings are made as follows:
- first of all, the locations of sockets and switches, as well as the locations of cable outlets for household appliances, are marked on the walls;
- Next, the lines along which it will be produced are outlined;
- locations for distribution boxes are determined;
- the location where the apartment electrical panel will be installed is selected;
- after this, the routes of cable routes from the electrical distribution panel to a specific electrical point are marked.
In most cases, changes in the electrical wiring diagram of an apartment are easier to make at the initial stage of work, namely at the marking stage. In this case, time and financial resources will be saved, since possible changes will entail additional costs.
- If the electrical panel is located in the apartment, the following groups are distinguished:
- lighting of living rooms, kitchens and corridors;
- power supply for living rooms;
- power supply to the kitchen and corridors;
- lighting and power supply for the bathroom.
If the apartment has an electric stove, it must be separated into a separate group.
To increase safety, do not forget to install (RCDs), so-called residual current switches, on each group. They are also required to supply the electrical wiring of the bathroom and kitchen.
After the groups are designed, it is necessary to determine the connection points of all the main consumers of electricity. This includes a washing machine, electric stove, air conditioner, water heater, oven and dishwasher.
Now you can determine the installation locations of switches, lamps, junction boxes and sockets, and then apply them to the draft electrical plan of the apartment. Carefully connect all the circuits and mark the wire lengths.
Be sure to make two copies of the apartment’s electrical plan and put one of them in the family archive with documents. It will come in handy more than once.
Now the final electrical circuit is drawn up. To do this, an exact plan of all rooms is depicted on each sheet, taking into account all dimensions.
All electrical points on the electrical circuit are marked using generally accepted symbols and are connected by lines indicating wires. For better readability, we recommend marking the lighting, grounding and power cables in different colors.
Be sure to mark all distances: linear dimensions of rooms, distances from wires to walls, ceilings, floors, and also to heating systems. Such a diagram will not only be more visual, but it will also be possible to make all the necessary calculations.
Requirements, rules, norms
When drawing up a diagram, you should remember some important requirements for the location of electrical wiring in residential premises.
Do not connect the grounding contacts of sockets to the neutral wires, as well as to the water supply or heating system. This is dangerous for human life. There is a protective ground wire for this purpose.
If the apartment has an electric stove rather than a gas one, then the main circuit breaker must have a rating of at least 63A.
The wires are laid only vertically and horizontally, positioned strictly at right angles to each other.
You should not change their trajectory; in the future, this risks increasing the likelihood of the wires being punctured by a nail or drill when performing minor repair work. Crossing wires should be avoided. If this is not possible, then the distance between them should be more than 3 mm.
When setting dimensions on the plan, it is necessary to ensure that the distance from the cable to the floor or ceiling is at least 150 mm, to window frames, door jambs and corners - at least 100 mm. It is better to place all switches and sockets at the same height.
In this case, switches are installed to the left of the entrance doors at a height of 800-900 mm, and sockets - 250-300 mm. In some cases, such as in the kitchen, the distance may vary. The gap between the heating pipes and wires must be at least 30 mm. Wires are connected to sockets from below, and to switches from above.
Features of installing electrical wiring in rooms with high humidity
Until now, it was believed that installing a socket in a bathroom was prohibited. Indeed, the ban existed until 1996. A bathroom is a room with a damp environment, water taps, a large number of conductive pipelines and a steel bathtub, which poses an increased electrical hazard.
The ban has long been lifted, partly due to the widespread use of modern electrical safety equipment.
- Thus, connecting electrical appliances in a room with high humidity is only possible:
- through a residual current device (RCD) with an operating current not exceeding 30 mA;
- the electrical wiring must have a connected grounding contact (protective zero TN-S);
- sockets should be located no closer than 60 cm from the doors of a closed shower stall;
- at a height of at least 130 cm from the floor level.
How to properly conduct electrical wiring
- It is necessary to draw up an electrical wiring plan for the apartment in two copies:
- on the first one, you should draw a plan for the location of switches and lighting equipment;
- and on the second - sockets.
After this, the clients of the electrical circuit should be divided into groups.
- Or like this:
- lighting fixtures for living quarters, kitchen and hallway (10A automatic);
- sockets in living rooms (25 A circuit breaker);
- sockets in the kitchen and hallway (25 A circuit breaker);
- lighting fixtures and sockets in the bathroom (these clients are grouped together because they work in a humid environment and have serious requirements).
For each household equipment, one group is allocated with a 25 or 32 A automatic machine. The equipment is divided into groups due to some nuances.
If all the equipment that consumes electricity is connected to one machine, then you will need a very thick cable that can withstand such a load. You will also have to buy an automatic machine designed for high power, and this will be quite expensive.
If one of the network elements breaks down, you will have to turn off the power to the entire apartment in order to begin restoration work.
When the electrical wiring diagram for a one-room apartment is ready, it is necessary to determine the number of all electricity consumers. You will have to calculate the required number of outlets based on the number of equipment you already have that is powered from the mains, and also take into account future purchases.
Then you need to correctly position all sockets and switches.
- To do this, use the following tips:
- switches and sockets should be placed to the left of the door;
- in living rooms and hallways, sockets should be at a height of 0.4 meters, in the kitchen at a height of 0.95-1.15 meters;
- switches should be located at a height of 0.9 meters;
- It is necessary to mark the locations of switches and sockets in the diagram.
Then you should run the wires from the switches and sockets (meaning the plan). If you are connecting via distribution boxes, then all cables must first go to them, and then to the electrical panel.
- For correct wiring you need to follow the rules:
- cables must run strictly horizontally or vertically;
- It is better to avoid crossing wires;
- the cable must be installed at a distance of 0.15 meters from the ceiling and 0.1 meters from doors and windows;
- the cable to the switch is fed from above, the cable to the socket from below.
The last step will be to calculate the cable footage and the total number of machines. When calculating cable footage, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the rooms, and when calculating the number of machines, one must proceed from the number of groups. You should also remember that all machines are ultimately connected to one, which is designed for high power.
If you already use or are planning to purchase an electric stove, then you need an automatic machine that is designed for at least 63 A.
Basic types of wiring
If you decide that you can handle the correct electrical wiring in your apartment, then first you need to choose the appropriate method for this.
There are three types of wiring:
- using distribution boxes;
- star;
- plume.
"Through junction boxes."
This is the most common type of wiring. The electrical panel is located on the staircase, and not in the living room. The power cable comes from it, and the panel itself contains a meter and several switches (most often 1-3). In each individual room, power supply is provided through a distribution box located at the entrance.
"Star".
Each light point or outlet is located on a separate cable line running into the electrical panel and often has its own circuit breaker.
This wiring makes it possible to exercise full control over each element of the power supply chain. Among the disadvantages for the owner is a significant increase in the amount of necessary wiring and labor costs, the high cost of a fairly large panel, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the project.
Wiring "Star"
"Plume".
The principle is similar to the “star” one, but differs in that not one element, but several are placed on one cable. The project will cost less than the previous one.
It is rare to find one of the options in its “pure form”. In each specific case, they are mixed to achieve the most effective result.
Combined wiring method
Nuances in a one-room apartment
- In a one-room apartment, electrical wiring is most often divided into two groups:
- kitchen and bathroom, where a large number of electrical appliances are concentrated;
- living room.
This is done in order to obtain a power reserve by distributing the total load over two circuits, and also so that in the event of a short circuit or break in the circuit, one line, if possible, remains in working condition.
Electrical wiring diagram in an apartment (examples)
The given diagram of the apartment wiring of a standard two-room apartment with the location of the electrical panel near the entrance to the apartment is made in a somewhat simplified form. Only the main sources of lighting are presented here, that is, chandeliers, simple single-key switches, hidden sockets with a protective contact for grounding.
So, as you can see for yourself, you can create an electrical circuit yourself. A specialist will do this job much better, but every apartment owner should be able to correctly determine the location of the wires in order to avoid accidental damage to them by an unsuccessfully driven nail or drill bit.
Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment is a step-by-step process that requires increased attention to the work being done, strict adherence to safety standards and installation rules.
The slightest mistakes can cause a short circuit. There are a number of certain rules, following which you can make high-quality electrical wiring.
Carrying out electrical work is not particularly difficult for those who know how to handle a tool.
Installation can be done in any of two ways. Hidden installation methods include embedding wiring into walls, ceilings and voids, under flooring, behind plasterboard sheets.
The open installation method includes laying cables in special boxes, cable ducts, using staples and clips. Both of these methods have their advantages. To perform installation, first of all, it is necessary to move all furniture and household appliances away from the walls and, if major repairs are being carried out, remove all construction debris.
Let's look briefly at each of these stages.
Methods for laying electrical wires and cables
- There are 2 ways to install electrical wiring in apartments:
- open;
- hidden.
- The latter in turn can be divided into:
- ceiling gasket;
- laying on walls;
- and flooring.
Hidden way
This technology is the most dusty and dirty, since you will have to trench the walls and ceiling or tear off the floor covering. Therefore, it is best to perform it during a major overhaul.
If the power supply project plans for wiring along the walls, then we mark them with places for wiring, pick up a hammer drill or grinder and cut out grooves of a certain width and depth. We select the depth on the basis that after laying the wiring or cable, the layer of plaster will be no more than 10 mm, the width is unlimited.
We cut out places for sockets and distribution boxes using a special crown. We remember about load-bearing walls and make grooves in them that are not too deep. In apartments of panel houses, the interfloor ceilings have internal voids in which wiring can be laid.
Today, monolithic structures with brick interior floors are more popular; in such apartments, grooves are made in all walls, the main thing is not to catch the load-bearing monolithic beams.
The most economical option for hidden installation is installation under the floor covering. The main thing is the presence of corrugations for each wire. This is done for convenience in case of repair or replacement of wires and for additional insulation.
After the grooves are equipped, they begin to install the lighting distribution panel and lay the cable. The shield itself can be mounted or embedded in the wall. In new houses there is a special niche for it, and in old houses it is fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.
Inside the panel we install machines from which VVG-3*2.5 wires will go to the sockets and the main line. We lay VVG-3*1.5 from distribution boxes to lighting fixtures. For stationary high-power devices we make separate lines from VVG-3*2.5 cable. At the places where the connection points are installed, we make an outlet of 15-20 cm.
Now in distribution boxes into a single network. The highest quality connection will be the use of P&S. To avoid mixing up the wires during connection, you can hang tags with specific markings on them.
After that, using a tester, we check the entire network for damage and errors. If everything is fine, then we wall it up, put the switches and sockets in place.
Outdoor installation
For rooms where it is prohibited or impossible to lay wires hidden, open installation is used (external wiring in the apartment). For these purposes, boxes, cable channels or special clips are used. The installation is quite simple and is carried out only along the walls and ceiling.
The first thing we do is mark the laying location and drill holes for fastening in increments of 40-50 cm; if the space for the wire is less than 0.5 m, then we make increments of 15 cm for two fastening points.
After this, we attach boxes, cable ducts or clips to the wall or ceiling. We install external junction boxes at the wiring points, and carry out the wire connections, wiring and installation of connection points in the same way as in the hidden installation method.
The advantage of open mounting is easy access to all wiring, but the disadvantage is that it is not very aesthetically pleasing.
Typically, cables from the apartment electrical distribution board are laid along the ceiling (floor slab).
Holes are drilled in the ceiling, then when laying the cable, a cable fastener is inserted into this hole. I will dwell on this in detail, I will only say that there are many installation options (for example, a dowel-clamp, dowels with a tie).
Tools required for electrical installation
- Before you begin installing electrical wiring in the apartment, prepare the following tools:
- A wall chaser (or, in extreme cases, a grinder) for cutting furrows, a hammer drill.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Pliers, wire cutters.
- Building level.
- Phase indicator.
- Drills, a crown for a hammer drill for drilling out sockets for socket boxes.
- Knife and hacksaw.
If you don’t have a professional tool, you can always rent one.
Which wire to use for wiring in an apartment
Currently, there is no question about what kind of wire is needed for wiring in the apartment. For the installation of home electrical wiring, wires and cables are used exclusively with copper conductors. Wires and cables with aluminum conductors cannot be used for internal wiring.
- Give preference to copper wires, as they have:
- increased ductility (less likely to break during installation);
- corrosion resistance (oxidizes more slowly);
- long service life relative to aluminum;
- can withstand greater loads with a smaller cross-section.
Wires and cables can be single-core or multi-core. Multicore wires and cables have two or more cores reliably insulated from each other in a common sheath.
An example of a stranded wire is a wire of the PRTO brand (a wire with a copper core with rubber insulation in a braid of cotton yarn impregnated with an anti-rot composition). The cores of single-core and multi-core wires and cables can be made single-wire and multi-wire.
Cables and wires differ from each other in the type of sheath and names. The sheath of wires and cables serves to protect the insulation of the cores from exposure to light, moisture, various chemicals and prevent them from mechanical damage. The cable may include armor, and the sheath allows it to be installed in more adverse environmental conditions.
Wires can only be laid in a hidden way; if laid openly, only in pipes and ducts. Cables can be laid openly.
The most popular cable for use in home electrical wiring is VVGng; NYM cable and PUNP wire are less commonly used.
To connect to the floor panel, it is best to use an NYM cable. The same cable is used to connect the floor panel with the apartment or room panels (provided that they exist). Usually such shields are organized in private cottages.
It can also be used for individual connection of powerful consumers. This cable can be used to do all the power wiring in an apartment or house, but since it costs more than the VVGng cable and PUNP wire, it is used less often for these purposes.
VVG is an unarmored protected cable with copper conductors, polyvinyl chloride insulation, in a polyvinyl chloride sheath. The cable can be used in dry and damp areas.
The VVG cable is not designed for stretching. The insulated conductors of the VVG cable are twisted and have a distinctive color. The inner shell does not contain filling in the intervein space.
Cable VVGng
The designation “ng” in the name of the cable (VVGng) means that it does not propagate combustion when laid in bundles (a composition based on fire-resistant plastic is used). If VVG cable is used instead of VVGng cable, then if one of the cables catches fire, the flame will spread to other cables instead of localizing the fire.
The VVGng cable has a wide variety of shapes. It is most convenient to use a VVGng flat cable. In addition, it can also be round, square, sector, and even triangular.
NUM cable (NYM) – produced according to the German standard DIN 57250. The cable can be used indoors for hidden and open installation. NYM cable can be used outdoors, only out of direct sunlight. NYM cable has reduced flammability and gas and smoke emission, which is especially important for residential premises.
NYM cable
The NYM cable consists of copper cores, an intermediate sheath of chalk-filled rubber and a sheath of flame retardant polyvinyl chloride insulation. The use of an intermediate sheath in the cable design makes it easy and convenient to cut the cable during installation, increases its fire hazard and increases flexibility.
PUNP – installation flat wire. This is the cheapest wire of all cable and wire products used for installing electrical wiring in the home. PUNP wire is produced with two or three single-wire copper cores and polyvinyl chloride insulation in a PVC sheath. The veins can be painted in different colors.
Wire PUNP
PUNP wire is only available flat. These cable and wire products are used for both power and lighting networks. In the second case, wires of smaller cross-sections are used.
Much less often, when wiring home electrical systems, rubber-insulated wires of the PRN, PRI, and PRTO brands are used. The PRTO wire is intended for laying in fireproof pipes, PRI - can be used for laying in dry and damp rooms, PRN (protected wire) - in the open air, PRD, PRVD (two-core twisted wire) - only in lighting networks of dry rooms.
For open wiring, it is convenient to use a flat wire with copper conductors and polyvinyl chloride insulation with a dividing base of the PPV brand, as well as a wire with polyethylene insulation PPP. There is a flat wire without a dividing base - PPVS, but it is not very convenient to use.
Previously used wires with aluminum conductors (APR, APV, APRTO, APPV) are now not used in the construction and modernization of home electrical wiring.
Wire with copper core and polyvinyl chloride insulation PV. PV wires can be single-wire or multi-wire. Wires are available with different insulation colors. In household electrical wiring, single-core wire PV1 in yellow-green coloring is used for the potential equalization system (PSUP).
Wire PV1
When choosing wires and cables, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of the PUE for insulation painting.
The insulation of the neutral working conductor should be blue, the neutral protective conductor should be yellow-green. The color of the insulation of phase conductors must be different from the color of neutral conductors. There are many options here - brown, red, grey, white, black, etc.
It is also very convenient to use a different color of phase conductors for each section of electrical wiring, as well as different colors of core insulation for power and lighting wiring.
If you choose and then install electrical wiring with a wire or cable without complying with the requirements for the color of the cores, then in the future this will lead to significant difficulties in servicing and repairing electrical equipment in the apartment. In addition, the installation process itself can be very complicated, especially when using a large number of switches and sockets.
For different groups of household electrical appliances, wires with different cross-sections should be used.
- It would be best to divide the power cables into groups and connect them to separate machines:
- Lighting - wire cross-section from 1.5 mm (automatic - 16 A).
- Sockets - cross-section must be at least 2.5 mm (circuit breaker - 20 A).
- Powerful electrical appliances, such as electric stoves and hobs - at least 4 mm (25 A).
Installation of residential electrical panel
Before laying cables, it is advisable to mount the electrical panel into the wall. The size of the switchboard is selected according to the number of circuit breakers, RCDs, and differential circuit breakers that will be installed in it.
The boards are produced in the following main sizes: 4, 8, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 60, 72 modules (1 module = 1 single-pole circuit breaker). In an apartment, panels of 12, 24, or 36 modules are usually used.
In my practice of electrical installation of apartments, in most cases I use electrical panels with 24 or 36 modules (24 modules for a 1-room apartment, 36 modules for a 2 or 3 room apartment).
One shield may not be enough if you plan to use equipment for telecommunication networks (router, media converter). In this case, it is rational to place these components in an additional electrical panel, which is installed next to the main (power) panel.
Modern electrical panels are hidden in the wall and do not take up much space.
The advantages of installing an additional electrical panel are that it accommodates the network equipment that is necessary for the functioning of television and the Internet. Thus, a router hung in the hallway on a nail is a thing of the past. In return come functional and ergonomic solutions.
Installation of socket boxes and distribution boxes
After marking, the locations of future sockets and switches became visible. In most cases, nowadays, sockets are installed closer to the floor at a height of about 20-40 cm from the floor, switches - at a height of 70-90 cm from the floor.
This rule is not strictly mandatory; changes are possible upon request. For example, it is more convenient for tall people to use switches located higher; for short people, on the contrary, it is better if the switch is placed lower.
Sockets and switches can be assembled into blocks of up to 5 pieces, and sometimes up to 6 in one line. Moreover, both vertical and horizontal installation is possible. All these points should already be taken into account when marking.
Now all that remains is to drill holes in the wall for the socket boxes. The standard European socket box has a diameter of 68 mm. When folding several socket boxes in a row, the distance between their centers should be exactly 71 mm. The depth of the socket boxes is 45 mm or 60 mm.
Deeper ones are used, for example, for installing a temperature controller for a heated floor or for switching electrical wires if necessary.
After this, holes are drilled for the junction boxes. Typically, distribution boxes (they are also called doses) are mounted under the ceiling at a distance of approximately 15-30 cm from the ceiling. The following rule must be observed: doses must be on the same vertical axis with sockets and/or switches located below.
Not everyone likes having distribution boxes visible on the wall. Installation of distribution boxes under the ceiling is allowed, provided the wires are connected by welding or crimping.
Wall chipping
Grooving is the process of cutting a groove (deepening, furrow) in concrete, brick or plaster layer for the subsequent installation of communications into it (in electrical communications are electrical cables and wires, in plumbing – pipes).
Before cutting, it is necessary to indicate the width and depth of the groove.
- These parameters are determined based on:
- number of cables laid together;
- cable sections;
- the location of the cables in the groove relative to each other.
Regarding the last point, it is worth clarifying: cables in a groove can be laid either flat or deep into the groove. In one case the groove is made deeper, in the other - wider. Here each electrician decides for himself.
You should not make the groove too wide (with a margin) - during installation the wire will constantly fall out and will have to be secured in the groove with special clips or “grabbed” with plaster. It is ideal to make a groove 4 mm wide for a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm - the cable fits in there with a little tension and holds without problems.
I strongly recommend making grooves using a wall chaser with a connected industrial vacuum cleaner, and not using an angle grinder for this. Since fine dust after such gating will settle for quite a long time, which can stall all the work.
Professional electricians usually have all these tools (wall chaser and industrial vacuum cleaner) in stock. If you install them yourself, you can rent them.
Wiring
- Wires can be routed in 3 ways:
- along the ceiling;
- by gender;
- along the walls.
- Wiring electrical wiring to the ceiling is, in my opinion, the best option:
- there is no risk of breaking the wire during repairs;
- There is always a way to get to the wiring.
If necessary, you can always remove the suspended ceiling, make changes to the electrical wiring, and then install the ceiling in place. When laying on the floor, you will have to chisel the screed, which is fraught with high costs.
Connecting wires in a junction box
- The main options for connecting conductors in junction boxes:
- twist;
- soldering;
- welding;
- crimping;
- PPE caps;
Please note that only connections made by welding and crimping (as the most reliable) can be bricked up according to the PUE.
Cost of electrical installation work in an apartment
Price list for electrician services:
Average cost of turnkey electrical installation work
There is another approach when calculating the cost of electrical installation work. The turnkey price is determined depending on the number of installation points.
- All elements are considered points:
- socket;
- switch;
- lamp;
- chandelier, etc.
Prices for electrical installation of one point range from 700 to 1500 rubles. (of course, excluding the cost of materials).
Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment from the panel
You can find out how to do electrical wiring by reading this article. To ditch or not, to connect the wires by soldering or just twisting, which sockets and.
Before starting installation, you should familiarize yourself with the basic rules.
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Rules for installing electrical wiring
Electrical wiring is laid so that material consumption is minimal. Given the current cost of non-ferrous metal, this will save significant money. Moreover, by reducing the total length of wires, you minimize energy losses. Each apartment has a common wall separating the rooms. Installation can be done using one for both rooms. It is possible to have two boxes, which are located on both sides of the wall, but the distance should be kept as small as possible.
Socket Usage and Wiring Height
If there are similar ones on a common wall in one of the rooms and it is planned to place the same ones on the opposite side, it is allowed to make the wiring not from the boxes, but simply by connecting them with wires.
The correct electrical wiring diagram in the apartment should include possible risks of damage. To prevent access to electrical wires for pets, small children and to prevent them from stumbling, they can be hidden in the wall.
The wires are placed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the ceiling. Paintings or photographs are usually not hung at this level, so the risk of damage will be minimal. But if you plan to install a suspended ceiling in the room, then the location of the cables will depend on its design.
Choose the height of outlets carefully
Risks of water ingress
The wiring must be laid in such a way as to prevent water from entering it or the distribution boxes. You should not install sockets or switches, or do wiring in rooms with high humidity and temperature changes. Therefore, only lighting is provided in toilets and bathrooms, and the presence of electrical fittings is not desirable.
Note!
If there is no grounding loop in the house and the wiring is done with two wires, then it is prohibited to use sockets in these rooms.
Also, the electrical wiring diagram should not include the installation of distribution boxes, switches or sockets on external walls and floors.
Fire safety
When planning the wiring and selecting the appropriate cross-section of wires, you need to take into account the possibility of their heating and fire of the structure. Therefore, wires should be laid as far as possible from flammable objects and structural elements.
Typically, in apartments, the connection of wires in junction boxes is carried out by simple twisting. To do this, you need to clear the insulation from the wires to be joined approximately 5 cm from the ends. Using pliers, twist them tightly together and insulate them with electrical tape or use special caps.
Correct wire connection
To properly connect the wires you will need a soldering iron, solder and flux. Each wire stripped of insulation is first tinned, and the volume is soldered into the circuit. In this case, it is necessary to leave a small supply of wire in the box in case of future work.
Electrical wiring methods
Installation of electrical wiring in a one-room apartment can be done in an open, closed or hidden way under structural elements.
The open method involves laying without the use of additional insulation. This is the cheapest and most dangerous method, which it is advisable not to use in practice. If absolutely necessary, use wires with reliable insulation.
Open wiring is sometimes done in plastic boxes or corrugated sleeves. It is used in offices and public institutions.
Cables can be hidden under the facing material with which the walls are sheathed or covered. For example, remove it under drywall or plaster.
The most popular and safest method is a closed electrical distribution in a pipe or laid in a special pipe. This is only possible if these pipes were installed in the walls, ceiling or floor at the construction stage.
Securing wires and boxes
If the surface of the walls is not lined, you can do the wiring yourself using alabaster. Using a spatula, material is applied to a small section of the wall and the wire is pressed in. Alabaster hardens quickly; you will have to hold the wire for 30-40 seconds until it dries completely. The distance between the fastening points should not exceed 50 cm and the cable should fit tightly to the surface.
You can use special staples that are driven into the seams between the building material.
Note!
It is advisable to keep the distance between the fasteners small depending on the weight of the selected cable.
Mounting brackets can be made from nails. Having driven halfway into the wall, they are bent with a hammer, forming the required fastening.
Features of wiring fastening
There is one drawback to attaching wiring to walls using only alabaster. The solution dries quickly and you have to constantly mix fresh one. The staples do not hold the wire firmly enough and may fall off during repair work. Nails during fastening can damage the wire unnoticed by the installer and cause a short circuit.
It is better to secure the wiring in the kitchen using staples and additionally cover it with alabaster or putty. Heavy cables designed for heavy loads are usually laid in this room, so the distance between the brackets needs to be smaller.
Sometimes you need to trench both the walls and the floor
Wall chipping
It's easier and faster to do grating manually. The walls in ordinary apartments are covered with lime or cement-lime mixture, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter. It has low strength, so if you run it several times in one place with an ordinary screwdriver, you will get a good scratch that can be used to lay the wire. If the finishing is made of a sufficiently strong material or its depth is insufficient for routing, then you will have to use a special tool. A grinder or grinder is perfect for this.
Grilling walls in a panel house
In such buildings, all walls, ceilings and floors have increased strength. The advantage of such surfaces is that they are smooth. It is not advisable to ditch them. This kind of electrical wiring in an apartment takes a lot of time, it creates a lot of dust and noise. If you plan to install suspended ceilings, then the ideal option would be to do the wiring using an open method. In this case, the cables should be routed under the ceiling using a corrugated hose or mounting box. The suspended ceiling should completely hide the electrical wires.
When insulating walls from the inside, the material can be used to hide the wiring. Wiring can be carried out only if the walls do not freeze at low temperatures and condensation does not form on them. Wires are laid at floor, ceiling, and panel seams. There are special skirting boards for sale for both floors and ceilings. They have cavities designed for laying cables. In order to install sockets and switches, the walls will have to be tapped.
How to do electrical wiring video:
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Is it really possible for an ordinary unprepared person to wire an apartment?
with your own hands, turnkey?
I answer. If you are not a pathological lazy person, then definitely yes.
This article presents one of the parts of a practical manual for implementation, do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, step-by-step instructions, with detailed comments and explanations from the author. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that similar video and text material is published online as a paid material; on this resource, from start to finish, it is presented completely free of charge and is freely available to all site visitors.
In this manual, we will examine in as much detail as possible the issue of performing stationary electrical wiring in an apartment exclusively with our own hands, and the entire process will be considered from the very beginning to the end.
Briefly about what the step-by-step instructions for do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment include:
- Stage 1. Preparation and implementation of the apartment's electrical wiring diagram. Selection, brands and calculation of wire cross-section, room illumination, as well as electrical circuit protection devices.
- Stage 2. Installation of electrical wiring. Laying wires, connecting wire cores in junction boxes. Installation and connection of a residential power panel. Checking the completed electrical wiring.
- Stage 3. Installation of socket boxes (installation boxes).
- Stage 4. Installation of sockets and lamps. Connecting electrical household devices that do not have fixed sockets.
Who will benefit from this guide?
First of all, for those who have decided or are planning to carry out full or partial installation or replacement of the electrical wiring of an apartment or room on their own. And also for those who want to perform high-quality electrical wiring using the electrical installation services of private companies or organizations.
Based on the fact that this topic is very large and simply physically cannot be compressed into one article, the material is divided into several small but most detailed parts.
What is an apartment wiring diagram and why is it needed?
Let's start from the very beginning.
First of all, in order to carry out the electrical wiring, we need an electrical diagram of the room.
An electrical wiring diagram is a floor plan that shows the following elements in schematic form:
- Sockets.
- Switches.
- Lighting lamps.
- Distribution boxes.
- Power shield.
- Places for electrical outlets for subsequent connection of various equipment to them (for example, air conditioners, hobs and ovens, forced ventilation).
- Route for laying wires of the power and lighting parts.
An example circuit is shown in the figure below.
Why do you need a room wiring diagram?
The explanation should begin with the fact that the electrical wiring diagram is the foundation of a competently executed repair. And that's why:
- It is with the electrical wiring that any major repair begins.
- Subsequent stages of repair will block access to almost all changes to the electrical wiring of the room.
- The final indicator of the level of comfort of the room (if we talk about high-quality repairs) will again be the electrics - this is sufficient illumination of the room, conveniently located sockets and switches in the right places
Important! A correctly drawn up diagram is a guide to the competent implementation of all electrical wiring of any room.
I will describe one of the many advantages of performing electrical wiring according to the diagram, which will clearly show end users the importance of this stage.
We are all familiar with the following thing.
That's right, these are various kinds of extension cords, network adapters and carriers. If we consider the finished electrics of an apartment from the point of view of comfort, then the absence or minimal use of the mobile electricity transfer device presented above will be one of the criteria for well-thought-out electrical wiring. After all, if, as a result of the completed renovation, half of your sockets end up in places where large-sized furniture will stand (wardrobes, beds, sofas), then with a hundred percent probability those same ill-fated extension cords and carriers will be lying all over the floor of the apartment. The question arises, why then do new electrical wiring at all?
An example of electrical wiring without a diagram.
Before us is a one-room apartment, which consists of 4 rooms:
- Kitchen.
- Bathroom, toilet (shared).
- Hallway.
Using the example of a large living room, without relying on how the ground will stand, we will try to arrange the sockets according to the area of the given room.
Let me remind you that our room is a hall.
It is most logical to distribute the sockets at different ends of the room. For example, like this.
Based on my own experience as an electrician, I note the following: in 90% of cases, the distribution of sockets occurs “out of the blue,” so to speak, and they are distributed either in a hurry by the owner, who is urged on by hard-working plasterers and plumbers, or they are distributed by the electrician at his own discretion. We will see what this negligent attitude leads to in the following figures.
The renovation is complete, furniture and household appliances have been placed.
Where will the sockets be?
Of the 4 sockets distributed throughout the room, 2 will be blocked by furniture and will never be used.
What do we have to lose? Let's figure it out:
- The effort and time to lay the wire, install 2 socket boxes (mounting cups) and install 2 sockets.
- Money to buy 2 sockets, extra meters of wire, 2 socket boxes (mounting cups).
And if you take into account that the installation will be carried out by hired electricians, then you should add the cost of laying the wire, installing socket boxes (mounting cups) and sockets.
I think that during the renovation process, wasted money can be put to more necessary and useful use.
Using a fairly simple example, we saw how important a wiring diagram can be. I note that we only disassembled one room of the apartment presented in the example. Imagine what would happen if you made mindless electrical installations everywhere.
Now that we have an understanding of the importance of drawing up and diagramming the electrical wiring of an apartment, we can move on to part 2 of the step-by-step instructions for wiring an apartment with our own hands.
First, let's look at the general rules for laying electrical wiring. Electrical wires and cables must be laid strictly vertically or strictly horizontally with rotation angles of 90°. The diagram below clearly shows the wiring diagram with all the recommended indents, as well as the recommended installation height of switches and sockets:
It is worth immediately noting that wiring installation can be done in two ways: openly or hidden:
Open installation of electrical wiring is the simplest and most inexpensive solution; one of the advantages of this type of electrical wiring, in addition to the simplicity and low cost of installation, is the ease of its repair; the main disadvantage of such installation is considered to be a violation of the appearance of the interior of the room. Typically, such wiring is carried out in one of three ways: in a box (cable channel), on brackets, corrugation (or metal hose), or in PVC pipes.
Examples of open wiring in the box and on brackets:
Wiring in a box Wiring on brackets
Gasket in the box gasket on brackets in corrugation
Installation of hidden electrical wiring is a more labor-intensive process in which electrical wiring is hidden under wall cladding or laid in grooves:
The main advantage of this method of laying electrical wiring is that it preserves the appearance of the interior, and in addition, it provides good protection for the electrical wiring from mechanical damage (although, of course, you can still drill it or pierce it with a nail while hanging a picture). The disadvantages are the complexity of installation and the difficulty of repairing such wiring; in addition, this installation method is usually more expensive.
Sockets, switches, junction boxes and electrical panels also have 2 types of design: for open and for internal (hidden) installation:
Installation of open electrical wiring
STAGE 1 (general) Drawing up an installation diagram
This stage is common when laying both hidden and open wiring
We decide on the installation locations for sockets, switches, lamps and electrical panel (if needed). For example, let’s draw up the following diagram for installing electrical wiring in one of the rooms (for clarity, all our electrical wiring will be located on one wall):
Ready! We determined where we want to install sockets, a switch, where the lamp will be located, as well as where we will install the electrical panel and drew up a wiring diagram. Now you can proceed directly to its installation.
STAGE 2 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of electrical equipment
To begin with, let’s stipulate that the most common methods of laying open wiring are laying in a box and laying on brackets, so these are the ones we will consider:
Video editing:
installation of open electrical wiring step - 2 STAGE 3 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of boxes (cable channels), laying cables.
Now that everything is in place, we can begin installing the box (cable channel) along the intended electrical wiring lines.
A cable channel is a plastic box in which electrical wiring is laid. It consists of a base and a cover:
Boxes come in different sizes and colors, and, as a rule, have a standard length of 2 meters. For installation, the boxes are cut into pieces of the required length (usually the box is cut with a hacksaw), for example, as can be seen from our installation diagram below, we need to cut the box into the following sections:
Sections 2 meters long - 2 pcs.
Sections 1.5 meters long - 3 pcs.
Sections 0.5 meters long - 2 pcs.
Sections 0.3 meters long - 1 piece
Sections 0.2 meters long - 1 piece
In total, the total length of the box we need is 10 meters (i.e., you can buy 5 strips of the box, 2 meters each).
After the boxes are cut, you can start installing them; they are mounted very simply: you need to open the box cover and screw the base of the box to the wall using self-tapping screws (if the wall is made of wood or plasterboard) or plastic dowel nails (if the wall is brick , concrete, etc.). After the box is attached to the wall, the cable is laid in it and the box is closed with a lid. The angles of rotation of the box can be covered with special plastic corners, and you can also make corners by cutting the box at 45°:
Video of box installation (the video is not the best, but we couldn’t find anything better on the Internet, perhaps in the future we will make our own video on this topic, but for now we have to use what we have):
installation of open electrical wiring step - 3 If you decide to install electrical wiring using brackets, then instead of installing the box, after installing sockets, switches and everything else, you immediately lay the cable, which is attached to the wall with brackets. Brackets (clips) for fastening cables come in plastic of different sizes, designed for specific types and sizes of cables:
The staples can also be universal:
IMPORTANT! When laying wiring on brackets, remember that using this method it is forbidden to attach ordinary cables to combustible bases (for example, to a wooden wall); for this you must use special cables that do not support combustion (do not propagate fire).
STAGE 4 (Installation of open wiring) Assembling the circuit.
Now that everything is installed and the cables have been routed along the walls, you can begin connecting sockets, switches, lamps and assembling the wires in the junction boxes.
Installation of hidden electrical wiring
STAGE 1 Drawing up an installation diagram
This stage is common when installing both hidden and open wiring and has already been described above.
STAGE 2 (Installation of hidden wiring) Drilling holes in the wall
If you are installing hidden electrical wiring, then after drawing up the installation diagram (STAGE 1), you need to start drilling holes in the wall with a diameter of 72 mm (standard diameter for socket boxes) in the places where we will install switches, sockets and junction boxes. Drilling holes is usually done with a hammer drill (or drill) with a special bit for concrete:
STAGE 3 (Installation of hidden wiring) Wall chipping
After the holes are ready along the planned electrical wiring lines, we tap the wall. According to the technology, this is done as follows: First, 2 parallel cuts are made in the concrete wall using a special wall chaser, after which the concrete between these cuts is knocked out with a hammer drill:
However, there are other ways to make a groove; instead of a wall chaser, you can use an angle grinder (grinder), or you can even start drilling the grooves (but this method is only suitable if you need to lay a maximum of a couple of meters of cable, because the method is too labor-intensive .):
Video of the groove execution:
STAGE 4 (Installation of hidden wiring) Cable laying
Now it is necessary to lay the cable in the prepared grooves so that the cable does not fall out of the groove during installation; it must be fixed there; this can be done either by gripping the cable with gypsum plaster, because it hardens quickly, either with the help of a special bracket:
Video of cable laying in a groove:
STEP 5 (Installation of hidden wiring) Installation of junction boxes
The time has come to secure the mounting boxes in the holes drilled during the second stage (the boxes in which our switches and sockets will be installed in the future). It is better to mount mounting boxes on gypsum plaster (Tip: gypsum dries very quickly, so it is better to dilute it in small portions, because there is a risk that while you are installing one socket box, all your remaining mortar will turn into stone).
In order to secure the mounting box (socket box), you must:
- Clean our hole from dust and concrete fragments, and then wet the surface of the hole.
- Apply plaster to the hole, with the expectation that after installing the socket box into the hole, there will be no spaces left around the edges unfilled with plaster, but without fanaticism.
- We insert the socket box into the hole, having previously broken out the hatch on top for introducing the cable, it turned out that this hatch should be opposite the fine.
- We press the box down until it is flush with the wall.
- After the solution has dried, remove excess plaster with a spatula.
