Cedar: planting and care. How to grow cedar in the country
500C - as I understand it, 50 degrees Celsius! I didn’t understand at first either!Siberian ([email protected]) 10.02.2013 17:07
Hello! At the beginning of October, I gutted a cedar cone brought from Altai into a pot of indoor flower. I returned from vacation a month later - 11 cedars sprouted, in three months the growth averaged 10 cm. The trunk of the first two early ones began to darken at the base, is this normal? And how to replant them in the ground and when should this be done?
Dmitriy ([email protected]) 17.01.2013 21:59
I’ve been trying to grow cedar from cones for three years now... I buy 100 grams in the store, soak the bait in potassium permanganate... everything is as it should be! In the spring of this year nothing sprouted... I sow it in the front garden. actually initial stage my attempts put me in an apartment in flower pot. The shoots didn’t last long, the stem turned black and they all died this year, I’m trying again... is it really impossible to grow cedar in the Volgograd region?
Sergey ([email protected]) 14.12.2012 19:25
Hello to all cedar lovers. I have been planting cedar for more than five years. I grow both Korean and Siberian cedars. Now more than 3,500 have sprouted, the oldest are 5-year-olds, there are about a thousand at the dacha and in the forest, of which 700 are Siberian. I have laid about 10 thousand Korean cedar nuts for stratification, which I will plant in the nursery near the dacha in April-May next of the year. I ordered Siberian cedar nuts from Siberia, and brought Korean pine nuts from Primorye and bought them at the market in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Over these 5 years, about 10 thousand nuts in my plantings were eaten by animals, and plantings in the forest were especially affected. Only the plantings of the first year were preserved; the plantings of subsequent years were almost completely eaten up. Starting this year, I no longer plant nuts in the forest, because the plantings there need supervision, but I can no longer provide it, I’m sewn up. Starting next year I will plant only Korean cedars, they have better survival rate. Now I have planted about 20 thousand nuts, I look forward with fear to next spring, when the cedars will begin to sprout, and in 3-4 years they will need to be planted in the forest.
I brought mature cedar trees from Primorye. It is interesting that of the batch that I brought in July, about 85% survived, and of those that I brought in November, less than 40% survived.
Starting this year, I began planting 3-4 year old cedars in the forest - I chose a place away from roads, km. 4-5. The start of the experiment was not entirely successful. I planted about 300 in late autumn, early November (we haven’t had any snow on Sakhalin yet), more than half were eaten by forest animals. Obviously, they have nothing to eat at this time, but then beautiful and fresh seedlings fell from the sky. I'll check what's left in the spring. I won’t plant any more in the fall, only in the spring. I dream, or rather plan, to plant a cedar grove of 3-5 thousand pieces, I think I will manage it in 3-5 years. Starting next year I will involve my son in planting; he will be 10 years old.
Here on Sakhalin, Korean cedars grow in 2 places, planted by the Japanese. But ours didn’t even bother in the 70 post-war years. I can imagine how surprised people will be in 30-40 years when they discover my cedar grove.
In addition to cedars, I planted an alley of yew trees in a clearing in the forest. There are 3 rows in the alley, about 80 yews in total. I dig up yew trees from the dense forest and drag them to an open clearing about 200-300 meters away. The second year, all the yew trees took root. There are 5 meters between rows, 3 meters between yews in a row. In total, the alley will have 6-7 rows of 40-50 yews, this is the size of the clearing.
Over the past 5 years (I don’t take into account the previous years, when I gained experience in growing cedar), I have learned something, if anyone is interested in the topic, I will be happy to share my experience. Maybe someone else has the same strange hobby?
I am very interested in the experience of fighting forest animals when planting nuts and planting seedlings, especially in preserving seedlings. It’s a pity for time, it’s about a month into autumn, during which time 1-3 thousand cedars could be planted. Otherwise, in the spring there is a lot of hassle.
My email - [email protected]
cedar lover ([email protected]) 05.12.2012 17:56
Considering that the critical boiling point for water is 374 degrees Celsius, could you tell me how and under what laws of physics you can get boiling water with a temperature of 500 degrees?
Ivanovich ([email protected]) 02.12.2012 19:41
Please tell me, the nuts sprouted in June, now the cedars are on the (glazed) balcony - there is nowhere to plant them yet, is it necessary to cover the sprouts in winter or not? Do the sprouts require watering in winter?
Alexei ([email protected]) 25.11.2012 06:42
The term “Not enough space” means a distance of 7 m between cedars
Novel ([email protected]) 28.09.2012 16:22
The first experiment with planting cedar began in 2005, from 5 cones about 130 cedars sprouted. I planted nuts in the dog. IN sandy soil I added peat and went to water it in dry summers. In 2010, I transplanted 14 pieces, 3-4 cm high, into the village; the rest did not have enough space. RAAZZDAAAL Only this year, 2012, the first growth of 10-15 cm began, in 2010 the second experiment took place, but in the village so as not to go to the forest.
2012 I AM HAPPY FOR MYSELF for the second time.
28.09.2012
Novel ([email protected]) 28.09.2012 15:46
Hello!
Ukraine, Kharkov region.
I grew two Siberian cedars from pine cones in my garden
planted in 1962
The height of the pine trees is 7-8 meters, fruiting
started in 2010
Electrical engineer, retired.
21.09.2012
viktor ([email protected]) 21.09.2012 10:23
On my plot in the Leningrad region, a cedar tree grew from a seed. It has been growing for 14 years! There were two, but one died two years later. Its height is 120 centimeters in total. It develops well, but, apparently, due to the cold climate, the annual growth is about 10 cm.
Murashova Elena ([email protected]) 12.09.2012 22:47
Tell me, please, we brought a sprouted cedar cone from the dacha and planted it on the (glazed) balcony; do we need to cover the sprouts in winter or not? Do the sprouts require watering in winter? and when can you plant and how exactly in open ground?
Anna ([email protected]) 05.09.2012 14:03
I planted with already peeled kernels, peeled it myself (hands out of my ass), germination rate is about 50%, within a month at any time of the year, a very long root! In two months more than 10-15 cm! If you don't take care! I don’t see any point in stratification if its only goal is to break the nut shell, pick up the pliers and move on. When a panicle appears with a shell or nut on the top, I highly recommend carefully freeing the panicle from it; the needles may rot! Soak for no more than 18 hours, 10 changes of water is enough so that it does not cool down to 40 degrees, before that for 2 hours in potassium permanganate to 0.5%, before planting in the sun for 2 hours, it is important to plant in deep pots of 17 cm or more , Ideally sewage pipe 110 cm PVC 1 meter long, if you are not too lazy to maintain the humidity below 70%, monitor the acidity and avoid alkalization, it is possible to make a barbiturator from the bottom of the pipe, feed it through it.. irradiate infrared lamp for 2-3 hours. Make a fuss, get material for mycorrhiza formation in the soil for sowing, collect it in a coniferous forest... A pit for open landing do it in the ground scrupulously, the more the better.
delayed ([email protected]) 14.08.2012 12:47
error: written 40-500 degrees
kogai ([email protected]) 10.04.2012 09:13
I found a pine cone, ate all the seeds, left 3, planted them, they all sprouted, 2 disappeared after six months, the last one is still alive for 3 years, height 25 cm, small needles often dry out... what is the reason? Please tell me
Ilya ([email protected]) 07.04.2012 15:19
planted in Krasnodar. I hope it's successful. cones. last year successfully in könig. cones. just soaked
in and. ([email protected]) 23.03.2012 11:18
Regarding 500 degrees, this is of course a typo, after such heat treatment there will definitely be nothing alive left in the seed, therefore I dare to assume that the water temperature was meant from 40 to 50 degrees... let's try))
Matvey ([email protected]) 27.02.2012 10:56
But if they are soaked at 500 degrees, they won’t cook, and how can you get that water temperature at home?
slepoy1963 ([email protected]) 18.02.2012 15:43
It is very good to add forest coniferous humus from under the roots of pine trees to the planting soil. Cedar seedlings must be protected from direct sunlight and wind. To do this, they can be planted next to nurse trees that are taller.
How to grow cedar - “Homestead farming” N6, 1988.
“Cedar is a tree for children and grandchildren”
M. Ignatenko, Candidate of Biological Sciences, Honored Forester of the RSFSR, Leningrad
Siberian cedar (the correct botanical name is Siberian cedar pine)- an evergreen coniferous tree. This truly amazing plant seems to have absorbed all imaginable useful qualities: decorativeness and healing properties, winter hardiness and durability. The main wealth of Siberian cedar is its nuts. Collected near Leningrad, they contained 61% fat, 20% proteins, 12% carbohydrates. Please note that these are nuts grown in the northwest of the country, where the weather is capricious. Nuts are very tasty, nutritious and healing. Academician P.S. Pallas wrote 200 years ago: “in Switzerland they use pine nuts in pharmacies; They make milk from them, which is prescribed for chest diseases... they claim that they were used beneficially by consumptive people.”
Pine nuts contain vitamin A (growth vitamin), B vitamins (anti-neurotic), which improve cardiac activity and are generally necessary for the normal functioning of the nervous system. They are especially rich in vitamin E (tocopherol, which in Greek means “bearing offspring”). It is not without reason that in years of good cedar harvests the fertility of sable and squirrels increases significantly. Doctors claim that pine nuts contain substances that help improve blood composition, prevent tuberculosis, and anemia.
Cedar resin - resin- has embalming properties. For a long time, residents of Siberia and the Urals used it to treat purulent wounds, cuts, and burns. During the Great Patriotic War, cedar resin was successfully used in hospitals to treat wounded soldiers. It protected wounds from infection and stopped gangrenous processes.
The needles are rich in vitamin C and carotene. It contains a lot of calcium, potassium, phosphorus, manganese, iron, copper, cobalt.
Cedar wood is also valuable. Since it has bactericidal properties, cabinets made from cedar wood are not susceptible to moths. Wood is used to make about 10 thousand different products (pencil sticks, battery veneer, furniture, musical instruments).
The tree is beautiful with its green attire at any time of the year. The antimicrobial properties of cedar trees are also high. The air in its plantings is practically sterile.
Siberian cedar has been bred in our country for a long time. Cedars planted in the Moscow region, near Leningrad, Yaroslavl grow successfully; the age of some of them exceeds 100 - 200 years, they successfully bloom, bear fruit and produce mature seeds even in the Arctic. Many cedar trees have been planted by amateur gardeners on personal plots and in collective gardens. When breeding Siberian cedar, it is necessary to take into account that it cannot grow in dry sandy places, but prefers sandy loam or loamy, moist, fertile soils.
Cedar propagation vegetatively, by grafting cuttings onto Scots pine, but mainly by seeds. When tender, still immature shoots just emerge from the soil, birds (mostly crows) immediately peck them off. Therefore, plants have to be grown under plastic film.
Good results are obtained when sowing seeds in autumn. To do this, at the end of September - beginning of October, that is, a month before the soil freezes, the seeds are sown in prepared ridges and covered with spruce branches to protect them from mouse-like rodents. And in the spring of next year, the seeds sprout vigorously.
When sowing in spring, Siberian cedar seeds require mandatory stratification. To do this, they are soaked in warm water (25 - 300) for 4-6 days. The water is changed every 1-2 days. Then the seeds are mixed with well-washed river sand or peat chips and kept at room temperature. The mixture is periodically stirred and moistened. With this stratification, the seeds hatch in 50-60 days. The sprouted seeds are taken out into the cold and stored until sowing at a temperature close to zero. In spring, sowing is carried out in late April - early May (depending on weather conditions). For 1 sq. m. you can sow from 50 to 300 g of seeds. The depth of their planting is 3 - 4 cm. The plastic film that protects the seeds and seedlings from birds is removed only after the shells have fallen off the emerging seedlings.
When the crops are thickened, the seedlings dive. As soon as the sprouts appear in the form of a bent knee, they are dug up, sorted, the roots are trimmed and planted under a peg on the ridges at the same depth at which they were. The planting pattern is 20x20 cm or 20x10 cm. You can pick seedlings in the second year after germination. If agricultural practices are followed, the survival rate of cedar seedlings after picking can be very high - up to 95%. 2-3 years after picking, good planting material with a developed root system is obtained, which contributes to better survival of seedlings after transplantation to a new location.
Plant Siberian cedar! He deserves to be bred both in the central regions of the European part of the RSFSR and in the north-west.
A. Klebanov.
Candidate of agricultural sciences Sciences, Ural Forestry Engineering Institute, Sverdlovsk
Many rural residents of Altai, Siberia, and the Urals plant cedar in their garden plots, on the streets and in parks. Cedar is the beauty and pride of the taiga. True, trees do not always take root, but sometimes they grow up to 25 m, their trunk diameter reaches 2 m. How similar is cedar to Scots pine. At first glance, you can't tell them apart from each other. But pay attention to the needles. In cedars it is surprisingly soft, long, triangular, collected in whorls of 5-6 pieces, and in Scots pine there are 2 and very rarely 3 needles. Cedar is famous for its longevity - it even lives up to 800 years. It is difficult, of course, to wait for the harvest. In forest plantations, it begins to bear fruit at 40-70 years, sometimes later, and in gardens, where timely care and feeding with fertilizers is carried out, at 15-20 years. But it continues to produce a harvest of seeds for about 250 years. Residents of taiga regions call cedar “breadfruit”.
Of course, the question comes up again and again: Where to buy planting material?
In areas where cedar grows in the forest, in spring or autumn you can contact the nearest forestry or forestry enterprise and buy 2-5 year old seedlings. Sometimes, only with the permission of forestry workers, you can dig up cedar seedlings at skidding roads, loading areas, logging sites, oil pipeline routes, etc. In no case should you dig up cedar from under the forest canopy, in forest plantations, or in burnt areas. This is regarded as poaching and is punishable by a fine. But if you are allowed to prepare cedar planting material, dig it out carefully, preserving the roots as much as possible. Be sure to wet the soil properly and plant it on the same day. If this is not possible, then the seedling must be buried immediately. Significant damage, fragmentation of tap roots or their “drying out” in the air are the most common mistakes when planting cedar.
Another common mistake is planting single trees. It is known that everything coniferous trees Wind-pollinated, pollen from one tree is carried by the wind to another, promoting cross-pollination. If it occurs inside the crown of a tree, and there is no other plant of the same species in the neighborhood, then its seeds either do not set at all, or in the fall of next year (the seed development cycle of cedar lasts up to 18 months!) they ripen small and non-germinating. Therefore, cedar planting material must be obtained from different places to prevent inbreeding. It is advisable to plant seedlings on the site immediately in a permanent place, sufficiently lit, preferably in groups of 3-4 trees, at a distance of 5-8 meters from each other. You can plant low-growing fruit trees and berry bushes between cedar seedlings. It is very good to sow lupine - this “biological fertilizer” for several years will contribute to better growth and development of cedar seedlings and will bring the beginning of its fruiting closer. It is advisable to systematically water the soil around the perimeter of the tree crown, simultaneously introducing mineral and, in the spring, organic fertilizers.
From the very first days after planting, it is necessary to take care of the shape of the crown. The most effective formation of the so-called “garden forms” is a low-pubescent, spreading crown, it is good if it has a multi-peaked crown, since female flower buds are laid along its periphery, mainly in the upper part. You can remove lower branches up to a height of 2-2.5 meters in the first 10-15 years of the tree’s life, spreading the pruning time over the years. Use pruning shears to remove branches flush with the tree trunk. In this case, wounds heal faster. To prevent infection by spores of wood-decaying fungi, cover the cut areas with garden varnish.
You can avoid pruning if you break off the lateral buds on the axial shoot in the first 3-5 years after planting a 2-3-year-old seedling. In this case, all nutrients and growth substances enter one central bud of the axial shoot. The growth of this shoot per season increases 2-2.5 times, and the need to trim the side shoots subsequently disappears. It is advisable to break out side buds or trim side shoots in the autumn-winter period, before the start of the growing season.
An indicator of good survival and growth of cedar seedlings is dark green needles, a spreading crown with needles 4-5 years old, the growth of the axial shoot in the first years is at least 5-10 cm per year.
And also keep in mind one feature of Siberian cedar. This tree species is very sensitive to air pollution. That's why Planting cedar is undesirable near large industrial enterprises with increased gas or dust levels in the air. In addition, large seedlings require careful care and feeding with mineral and organic fertilizers. But in gratitude you will receive delicious, high-calorie pine nuts. And your grandchildren and great-grandchildren will remember for more than 200 years the Man who planted and grew this majestic tree.
Professor of Moscow State University of Linguistics, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences. Sciences I. I. Drozdov
Any natural talent is fully revealed only in certain favorable conditions, with appropriate upbringing. Yes and Siberian cedar- only with appropriate attention and targeted care does it fully realize its rich natural capabilities.
In wild cedar forests, trees are not productive enough. Here they are formed under conditions of biogenosis - a unique plant complex with high environmental properties, opportunities for secondary use of forests and the production of valuable wood in mature forest stands. In the village cedar forests, unique cedar gardens, formed and well-groomed by man, the trees are presented in all their splendor. Trees with lush, evergreen crowns perfectly decorate village landscapes, ennobling them with their colorful appearance. Phytoncides improve the health of the atmosphere; nut yields in the pine trees near the village are almost every year 5-6 times higher than the yield of forest plantations.
However, despite all the attractiveness of cedar, growing it is more difficult compared to other conifers (Scots pine, larch, spruce). Foresters call the culture of Siberian cedar the school of patience. Its seeds are distinguished by deep dormancy and they germinate only after a winter stay in the cold for at least 3-4 months. Cedar crops require protection from rodents and birds. The first ten years the cedar grows slowly, reaching a height of 1.5 m. However, in the future this breed is able to thank for attention to it. Cedar gets along well in individual areas, near buildings. At 30 years old, it reaches a height of 9 meters, forms a lush crown reaching 3 meters in diameter. By this time, there is little space for spruce, Scots pine and larch, they are cramped on the site, and problems arise with their felling.
Siberian cedar Propagated mainly by seed, less often - vegetatively (grafting, rooting cuttings).
It is preferable to import cedar seeds from the plains and low-mountain regions of Western Siberia. When propagating this breed in the European part of Russia, it is better to focus on the spring sowing period (late April, first half of May). To do this, the seeds are first prepared and stratified for at least 3 months in the cold, following the following procedure.
The seeds are soaked for 3 days, changing the water daily. During this period, benign seeds swell and sink to the bottom of the vessel. Empty and poor-quality seeds remain on the surface and are removed. Benign seeds are treated in aqueous solution potassium permanganate. Then their seeds are mixed with a damp (50%) substrate (sand, peat, sawdust, conifers, etc.) in a 1:2 ratio and placed in the cold (under the snow, in the refrigerator, etc.). If the number of seeds is small, they can be placed in bags made of several layers of loose fabric. It is important that the seeds are moist throughout the entire period in the cold. They retain moisture well under snow; they need to be moistened periodically in the refrigerator. Seeds in bags can be placed in plastic bags without closing them tightly.
Before sowing, the seeds are separated from the substrate, again pickled in a strong solution of potassium permanganate (up to 24 hours) and dried for sowing.
It is better to plant them in a greenhouse, hotbed, etc. on a loose peat-soil substrate. Here the crops are reliably protected from damage by birds. In comfortable conditions, seed germination increases, seedlings grow 1.5-2 times faster than in open ground. Before sowing, it is advisable to add 1 g of superphosphate, 0.5 g of potassium fertilizer or 2 g of wood ash mixed with 20 g of peat to the bottom of the sowing furrows before sowing, per 1 meter. The distance between sowing lines is 15-20 cm. The seeding rate is 30 g (125-150 seeds) per 1 meter. The depth of planting seeds in the soil is 3 cm. The surface of the crops is covered with a 0.5-1 cm layer of loose mulch (peat, sawdust or other covering material). During the season it is necessary to weed and loosen the soil 3-4 times. Before mass shoots appear (10 - 12 days), watering is required. Subsequently, the seedlings develop quite deep root system.
To protect crops from infectious damage to seedlings caused by the Fusarium fungus, in addition to preventive treatment of seeds, it will be necessary to water the seed furrows with the seeds sown in them with a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate. When lesions appear, the stems of the seedlings turn red, a constriction forms, they fall and dry out. Control measures: during the first 2 weeks, seedlings are treated with a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate 1 - 3 times with a solution consumption of up to 10 liters per 1 m2.
After 3 years, before their growth begins, the seedlings are dug up and transplanted into a tree school with a placement of 0.4 x 0.4 m, where they are grown for 3-5 years to obtain larger seedlings. It is allowed to store seedlings dug up before the beginning of the growing season for 2 weeks in the cold. Bunches of seedlings (50 - 100 pieces) are packed in damp burlap, then in plastic wrap and placed in a basement or in a snow pile, previously prepared under a layer of sawdust.
You can grow seedlings with closed roots, that is, in peat, plastic or other containers prepared for seedlings with a height of at least 8 cm and a volume of 200 - 300 cm. The containers are filled with a substrate from a mixture of peat and loam (1:1) added to the bucket mixture (10 l) of granulated superphosphate - 50 g, potassium salt - 25 g, dolomite lime 250 g.
The containers are filled with substrate in mid-April and placed on the ground in the greenhouse. After stratification, cedar seeds are washed, pickled for 24 hours in a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate and germinated 7-10 days before sowing on damp sand or damp burlap.
Sprouted seeds are sown 1 in each container, covered with peat, sand or sawdust in a 1 cm layer and watered with a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate (5 liters per 1 m of container surface). Care consists of timely watering, loosening the surface of the substrate two or three times, and removing weeds. If foci of seedling damage (fusarium blight) are detected, they are watered with a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate. If several seedlings have died, empty spaces are supplemented with sprouted seeds or seedlings from additional crops.
Growing period is 2-3 years. In the first case, seedlings are grown for 2 years under a film covering, in the second - the first year in closed ground, the next 2 years in open ground with mandatory regular watering. The slightest overdrying of a small volume of substrate has a detrimental effect on plant growth. Grown seedlings are removed from containers or transplanted directly in peat pots into large containers (paper-plastic milk bags, ceramic flower pots, plastic bags, etc.) or planted in the soil of a tree school (0.4x0.4 m) for germinating them and obtaining 6-8 year old seedlings.
Saplings 6-8 years old are more reliable than seedlings when transplanting cedar to a permanent place. In the tree school, they are dug up with a lump of soil (0.2 x 0.2 x 0.2 m) and transferred to the planting site, having previously wrapped the lump with film or a damp cloth. Seedlings with a closed root system are freed from containers before planting.
Planting of seedlings is carried out in areas with previously loosened (dug up) not turfed loamy or sandy loam soil. The planting hole is dug 30% larger than the volume of the root systems of the seedlings. The removed soil is mixed with fertilizers (peat, humus, rotted manure, wood ash), it is advisable to add 3-4 handfuls of forest litter from under the coniferous forest. The latter contributes to better development of mycorrhiza on root systems (symbiosis of root endings and hyphae of forest fungi), which provides good mineral nutrition to forest woody plants. The prepared substrate is poured into the bottom of the hole and the root system of the seedling is placed in its center so that its root collar (the boundary between the stem and the root system) is at the ground level of the site. Next, the hole is filled with prepared loose soil, compact by trampling and watered (0.5 buckets).
Planting places for seedlings are placed linearly or in groups with a distance between them of at least 3 m. When planting garden-type plantings, the placement of seedlings is 4x5 m or 5x5 m. This provides a fairly complete light supply to the trees, promotes the development of the crown and the formation of a good harvest of cones in the future. With sparse trees standing, cedar begins to produce crops at the age of 18.
Caring for cedar seedlings
When a white coating appears on young shoots (more often seen in humid weather), it is imperative to treat them with a solution of laundry soap. It is diluted in warm water, the foam is whipped, and then the affected shoots are thoroughly washed 2-3 times with a sponge or soft cloth swab. Otherwise, with the active development of whiteness, the shoots may die. In this case, the tree does not die, but its annual growth is lost.
Vegetative propagation of cedar, most often by grafting cedar cuttings onto cedar or cedar onto Scots pine, is carried out to clone valuable selected forms (in terms of growth intensity, decorativeness, productivity), to accelerate the appearance of the first cones. A mature plant develops from a cutting—scion—taken from an adult tree from the upper female tier of the cedar crown. After 4-5 years, cones may appear on such a grafted tree.
Cedar cuttings can be rooted in special greenhouses, like blue spruce cuttings. But the technology of this process is quite labor-intensive. At all vegetative propagation cedar is a rather complex matter, and it is better to leave it to specialists.
Cedar seed production is one of the main attractive qualities of this tree. In a free state, cedar grown from seed begins to form cones at the age of 18-20.
Siberian cedar is a monoecious tree; in the upper, most illuminated part of the crown there are female ovules, below - male strobili. The cedar “blooms” in June. The female “bumps” of raspberry-violet color are hidden in the needles near the apical bud of the shoot. Male “flowers”, orange-crimson in color, are collected in large “inflorescences” at the base of the shoots. After 3-5 days they turn brown and fall off. Pollen is carried by the wind. After pollination, the female cones close, become green-brown, grow to 2-3 cm and are called “winter cones” until the spring of next year. Fertilization and seed formation occurs from the end of August and throughout September. To ensure cross-pollination, it is advisable to have a group of cedars (3 or more). To increase the reliability of pollination of female “flowers” in young cedars, you can carry out artificial post-pollination: shake off the pollen of male “flowers” onto paper, place it in a jar and store it in the refrigerator for several days. As the female “flowers” open, apply pollen to them with a soft brush or gently blow them off a sheet of paper.
Cedar grows and bears fruit for several centuries. Near Yaroslavl, in the Tolga Monastery, about 50 cedars from the monastery garden, founded four centuries ago, have been preserved. Individual centuries-old fruit-bearing cedars are often found in the Yaroslavl region. Near Suzdal, an alley of 150-year-old cedar trees is successfully bearing fruit. In the Ivanovo region, in the Ples tract near the town of Furmanov, a 120-year-old cedar grove (about 1 hectare) bears fruit and produces natural cedar regeneration. In the Moscow region, near the town of Dolgoprudny, in the Klyazminsky park forestry enterprise, there is a century-old grove of two hundred cedars. Near the town of Zaraisk in the Novinkovsky forestry of the Lukhovitsky forestry enterprise, a 25-year-old cedar plantation on an area of 3.2 hectares (about a thousand cedars) bears fruit abundantly. In the Dmitrovsky district near Yakhroma, M.V. Tvelenev conducts observations in a half-century-old grove with an area of more than 3 hectares. It is possible to establish new cedar groves not only in Siberia, but also in the European region of Russia. This is not only possible, but also necessary to do.
More detailed information about the biology of Siberian pine, methods of its propagation and cultivation can be gleaned from the books:
P.S. If you think this information is worth sharing with others, please share it on social networks.
Powerful and large cedar tree! Planting and caring for it, despite its parameters, is not at all difficult. The main thing is to find a place for this beauty. Nowadays, the cedar tree has become very popular due to the benefits it brings to humans. When asked how to grow cedar, for example, on summer cottage, the answer is found: breeders have bred dwarf varieties of this tree. Ordinary cedars can reach a height of 30 meters or more, while dwarf cedars barely grow to 1 meter. They look beautiful both in single plantings and in group plantings. has proven itself perfectly as a hedge; it tolerates cutting perfectly, which allows you to give free rein to your imagination and create a variety of green shapes. In addition to giving beauty, this tree also provides health benefits.
Since ancient times, it has been believed that cedar is the elixir of youth, it is a symbol of power. Its action is especially important for men's health and power. It has also been established that this plant is a source of healing energy. If you relax for an hour every day near the evergreen miracle of nature, you can completely get rid of many diseases. So cedar, planting and caring for which will not cause you much trouble, can take its rightful place on your site. This article will help you learn how to grow beautiful and healthy ones at home.
Description of cedar
Cedar looks great in the country. This evergreen tree will delight you all year round beautiful view. It belongs to the pine family and can live up to 800-1000 years. This long-lived plant acquires several peaks and a dense crown as it grows.
Old cedars are distinguished by brown, with a grayish tint, cracked bark in the form of rough scales. Young shoots are dark brown with a huge number of long red hairs. The needles are dark green, soft, grow in bunches of 5 needles, triangular with small notches, reaching a length of 5 to 15 cm.
Cedar is a monoecious plant; both female and male cones grow on it. The female cedar cone is located at the end of the shoot, and the male one is at the base. Pollination occurs thanks to the wind. The buds are conical in shape and up to 10 mm long. A mature cone reaches 15 cm in length and 5-10 cm in width. They are diamond-shaped and have a brown tint. Young cones are ovoid in shape and purple in color. Full maturation occurs within 15-16 months. Cedar begins to bear fruit, planting and caring for it according to all the rules, at the age of fifty years.
The seeds of the evergreen beauty are large, dark brown, ovoid in shape. One cone can ripen from 50 to 150 seeds.
Types of cedar trees
Before you learn how to plant cedar, you need to familiarize yourself with what types exist in nature and how each of them is characterized so that you can choose for yourself best option. In total, the genus of cedar trees includes 4 tall species:
- Lebanese - distinguished by its powerful and spreading branches that grow horizontally. Lebanese cedar looks very unusual; planting and caring for this species is very simple, since it is completely unpretentious to its growing conditions. This tree is slow growing and by the age of 10 years it barely reaches 2 meters.
- Atlas - This species will require a lot of space to grow as it is extremely powerful. By the age of 10 it reaches 3 m in height. After planting, the seedling needs staking. The branches of the plant are raised upward.
- Himalayan - by the age of 10 it grows up to 3 m. The branches are drooping, drooping type, the apex sticks out.
- Cyprian - originally from the island of Cyprus. The crown at the beginning of growth is cone-shaped, then develops into a wide-spreading one, and in old age it becomes umbrella-shaped. In adulthood it reaches a height of 40 m.
Landing place
Growing cedar begins with selecting a suitable place for the plant. recommended where the soil is not too dry and rich in nutrients. Plants in the neighborhood should be lower than the cedar because it requires high levels of light as it grows. Trees that have reached the age of 7-8 years can already develop normally further in partial shade.
How to plant cedar
The very first thing you need to know is that cedar seedlings should be located at a distance of 7-8 m from each other. Marking the area when planting is very important stage work. It is necessary to ensure that the distance from the tree to the house and nearby buildings is at least 3 m. These distances must be maintained so that the powerful root system of the plant does not destroy the foundations of structures over time.
When you are done with the markings, you can start planting, this is not at all difficult process. Cedar is not too picky about soil and does not require additional bedding. In hard soil, it is recommended to fill in a drainage layer (15-20 cm) consisting of coarse sand or broken bricks.
Watering and spraying
Cedar trees usually do not need watering when grown in the garden. Young trees and cedar seedlings are an exception; in dry and hot summers they need to be watered. Moderate watering is required to avoid moisture stagnation.
Evergreens also tolerate dry air calmly. But at the same time, young cedars need to be sprayed periodically on summer days. This way you will provide the needles with a rich color.
Cedar care
How to grow cedar so that it is strong, beautiful and healthy? The answer to this question is simple - you need to properly care for it. While the plant is still young, it grows very slowly, giving way to other coniferous and deciduous species. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that small and still weak cedar seedlings do not disappear in the shade and thickets of their faster neighbors. It is necessary to remove self-sowing foreign plants in a timely manner.
Feeding
The tree will grow best in an area open to sunlight. The evergreen beauty does not tolerate an excess of nitrogen, this can lead to poor development of the root system. At the same time, it requires potassium.
Seedlings need mulching, it will keep the roots in winter time from frostbite in severe frosts. Every year it is recommended to increase the layer of mulch, this will promote the formation of adventitious roots.
In spring and autumn, the circle of soil around the trunk can be mulched with organic matter. In the summer, it is recommended to feed cedar twice a month with complex
Propagation by seedlings
You need to choose cedar seedlings very carefully. It is better to purchase those that are sold in containers or with a large lump of earth on the roots. This condition increases the chances that the plant will tolerate transplantation well. It is recommended to buy 2-3 year old seedlings. If the planting material shows exposed roots and yellow withered needles, then it is better to refuse such a purchase.
Having selected seedlings, you can begin planting, adhering to the following recommendations:
- Dig up the soil within a 3 meter radius around the planting hole.
- The planting hole should be 40 percent larger than the seedling's earthen ball.
- Before planting, dip the roots of the seedling in a creamy clay solution.
- First secure a peg in the hole, only then can you place the seedling there. Cover everything together with soil.
- Tie the seedling to the support with twine.
- Water the plant moderately. If there is no rain for 14 days, then you need to continue watering every 2 days.
How to grow cedar from a nut
To grow cedar from a nut, you first need to choose the right seeds. Make sure that the planting material does not have an unpleasant odor or is covered with mold. Now that the material has been selected, you can begin sowing.
Before sowing, so that the seedlings are not damaged by the fungus, the seeds must be pickled in a weak solution of manganese for two hours.
The seeds do not germinate immediately; first they undergo a long preparation, which lasts about 5 months. The first step of preparation is soaking the seeds in water for 3 days; you need to change the water daily. After this, the nuts are mixed with sand, moistened and placed in a fabric bag. Now you need to place them in a wooden box with holes on the sides and put them in the refrigerator. Planting material should be checked periodically and moistened as needed. If mold is noticed on a nut, it is immediately thrown away and the sand is changed.
After six months, the nuts are thoroughly washed and planted in pots to a depth of 1 cm. Sandy soil is used for this. At room temperature, the seeds will germinate in 30 days. Now the seedlings can be placed in a lighted place, but not in direct sunlight.
With the onset of summer, the pots can be taken outside so that the plants gradually get used to the air and sun. After some time, small seedlings can be transplanted into loose soil.
How to grow cedar in the country
When coniferous forests are far from your home, you really want to settle in a plant that will envelop your yard with an intoxicating and healing pine aroma. Cedar is perfect for this purpose. Due to its large size, it is often used for landscaping large parks and squares. On a country plot, a tall, handsome tree will also look great, especially when paired with a birch tree, but what to do if you have a small dacha and the plot is not characterized by endless open spaces? You can find a way out by planting a dwarf cedar in your dacha.
Here are some varieties of dwarf cedar:
- Nana varieties;
- Atlas cedar Aurea variety;
- cedar of Lebanon variety Sargentii;
- Himalayan cedar variety Golden Horizon.
Benefits of cedar for humans
What benefits does cedar bring to humanity, why, especially recently, has interest in this evergreen plant increased so much? This is explained by the fact that the tree has extraordinary properties:
- Throughout the year, cedar looks very decorative, especially in winter, when green needles are combined with white sparkling snow.
- Healthy and tasty pine nuts are widely used in cosmetology, medicine and cooking.
- Resin resin due to its unique healing properties is one of the best remedies for wound healing.
- Cedar needles are also useful; for centuries it has been successfully used to treat many diseases.
- Your area will be filled with the amazing coniferous aroma inherent in cedar, as a result of which the air will be filled with useful substances and freshness.
- Cedar wood is highly valued in construction and furniture making. In this case, Canadian wood is simply priceless and has the highest price, since it is extremely durable, easily withstands extremes of high and low temperatures, is environmentally friendly and has antiseptic properties. So Canadian cedar can be considered a leader among trees used by builders and furniture makers.
Who is who
In total, five species of these trees grow in nature. The most famous are the Lebanese cedar (depicted on the flag of this country) and the Himalayan cedar. These are very beautiful trees with short bluish needles and cones that produce small, inedible seeds. However, these plants are heat-loving, and not a single type of cedar can withstand the winter conditions not only in Siberia, but also in the central part of Russia.
What about Siberian cedar? Those cedars that grow in Siberia and the Far East and from which delicious nuts are obtained are not actually cedars. They are nothing more than one of the types of pine trees - Siberian cedar pine (Pinus cembra f. sibirica). Cedar pines grow not only here in Siberia - their siblings (Pinus cembra) also live in the European mountains, and in the Far East and Korea their cousin is found - the Korean pine (Pinus koraiensis), which is also called cedar, but only Korean .
Siberian cedar, or, as it is more correctly called, Siberian cedar pine, is a powerful tree reaching a height of 40 meters or more. The crown of young plants is dense and resembles a skittle, while the crown of old plants is wide and voluminous. Cedar pines live up to 300, and according to some sources, up to 600 years. Their needles are bluish-green, rather soft and thin, up to 13 cm long. One of the features of this pine is that its needles are collected in bunches of 5 pieces.
Cedar pine begins to bear fruit in the 40th or even 80th year of life. Not many people can expect a harvest from plants grown from seeds. That is why, to accelerate fruiting, the grafting method is used, using branches from specially selected elite plants. Such grafted specimens have much smaller dimensions, but produce fruits already in the 5th - 6th year.
Which place to choose
Cedar pine grows well both in open sun and in slightly shaded places. But an even, dense crown can be formed only with free growth. The soil should be loamy and loose. It is especially important that the deep subsoil layers easily allow water to pass through - “cedar” does not tolerate stagnant water. This is why it happens that young pines grow beautifully, but older ones die. However, this also happens with apple trees, whose roots also do not tolerate groundwater.
Otherwise, cedar pines are extremely unpretentious: they are drought-resistant, not afraid of frost and do not require any fertilizing or pruning. So be patient and grow cedar pines. And for those who have little patience, I advise planting dwarf cedar trees - they are also beautiful, but they grow much faster and bear fruit already in the 6th - 10th year after sowing.
Nut seedlings
For a conifer lover, the main thing in cedar is its undeniable beauty and high frost resistance. That is why this pine is one of the most welcome guests in our garden. How can one acquire such a miracle?
Method 1 (for those who are not strapped for money)
The most impatient, if the thickness of the wallet allows, can order an already mature cedar from a nursery. The so-called large trees are planted even in winter - using a truck crane. Of course, there is no complete guarantee that an adult tree will take root in a new place. The service is valued as a sum with several zeros...
You can also buy a young seedling, the cost of which will depend on age and size. True, you still have to run around to find cedar pine in nurseries - not many people grow it yet.
Method 2 (for those who are not so rich as to be afraid of difficulties)
Pine nuts remain viable in warm conditions for no more than 2-3 years, and even then if their integument (shells) is not broken. In the refrigerator at even low positive temperatures and in a sealed container, seeds can remain viable longer, up to 10 years. Still, fresh seeds germinate best.
The nuts cannot germinate immediately because their embryo is underdeveloped. For its full development, a period of 5 - 7 months is required, taking place at high air humidity and even low temperatures- It is under these conditions in nature that nuts spend the whole winter in the ground. So we can sow nuts in the ridge for the winter and wait for them to germinate.
And for more effective germination, the nuts must be mixed with clean coarse damp, but not wet sand, placed in a cloth bag and stored in the fruit compartment of a household refrigerator in a plastic bag or plastic box for 5 - 7 months. Seeds should be periodically inspected and if the substrate is damaged, replace it with a fresh one. After 5 - 7 months, the nuts are washed and sown in pots, boxes or beds to a depth of 0.5 - 1 cm in fresh loose sandy loam soil. Crops are kept at a temperature of about 20 - 22 ° C, they germinate within 0.5 - 1 month. Young shoots are kept in the light, but not in the sun, and watered moderately.
In summer, seedlings can be taken out into the garden and gradually accustomed to air and sun. And then planted in ridges with loose nutritious soil. Remember, fresh organic fertilizers are not acceptable. Young plants tolerate transplantation easily, so the distance between seedlings can be small.
It is advisable to replant plants that are 3 or more years old only in early spring. Old trees and plants with exposed, dried roots practically do not take root.
To successfully transplant trees over 5 years old, it is necessary to prepare the root ball in advance. To do this, at least a year before replanting, a deep circular cut with a diameter of about 60 - 100 cm is made around the tree trunk. Horizontal roots are cut, but deep ones are not. As a result of repeated pruning and good watering, all roots form a dense lump that is convenient for replanting.
Those who think that Siberian cedars can grow only in Siberia, further south, they say, are too “hot” are mistaken.
Siberian pine pine takes root well in all regions of the country, including the Moscow region. Marvelous ornamental plant with long, soft needles! Cedar is increasingly being planted not only near “Novorussian” mansions, but also on ordinary plots of six hundred square meters. For example, at the dacha of actress Nina Grebeshkova there is a beautiful cedar planted by her husband, director Gaidai.
At good care the cedar will begin to bear cones and nuts in the 30th year, although for some reason many are sure (and even in books there are such statements) that only hundred-year-old specimens bear fruit.
Andrey Tumanov, editor-in-chief of the newspaper “Your 6 Sotok”
Siberian cedar (its correct name is “Siberian cedar pine”) is decorative and winter-hardy, healing and durable. Cedar branches form a beautiful dense crown. Dark green cedar needles reach 7-10 cm in length, they are medicine(rich in vitamins and minerals) and releases phytoncides: the air around the cedar is always fresh and sterile. Cedar resin - resin - has an embalming and healing effect; Cedar wood has bactericidal properties. The fruits of cedar - "pine nuts" - ripen in cones the second year in September; Nuts are not only tasty and nutritious, but also have medicinal properties. That is why the cedar pine is called a healer and breadwinner (“breadfruit tree”) not only for people, but also for animals and birds.
In Russia, cedar grows in natural plantings throughout Siberia, growing up to 35 meters in height; The diameter of the cedar trunk reaches 2 meters. Cedar usually begins to bear fruit at the age of 30 and lives up to 400 years or more (sometimes up to 800 years). During the ripening period, large cedar cones fall off along with the seeds, which can be counted in one cone from 80 to 125 pieces.
Enthusiastic gardeners have long been growing valuable cedar throughout our country: in the Moscow region, in the Leningrad region, in the central regions of the European part of Russia, in Altai, in the Urals, and even in the Arctic, cedars planted by their hands have been producing mature trees for many decades. seeds. IN forest plantations cedar usually begins to bear fruit at the age of 40-70 years, and in garden plots with care and feeding - at the age of 15-20 years. Cedar does not grow only in dry sandy places, preferring sandy loam or loamy moist fertile soils; cedar is sensitive to air pollution and dust.
Cedar can be propagated vegetatively (by grafting cuttings onto Scots pine) and by seeds (it is recommended to take cedar seeds from cones from different trees for planting in order to prevent inbreeding in the future to obtain high-quality nuts).
Candidate of Biological Sciences, Honored Forester of Russia M. Ignatenko shares his experience of sowing cedar seeds:
“It is better to sow cedar seeds in open ground in the fall (late September-early October), covering the crops from mice with spruce branches. In the spring, cedar seeds produce friendly shoots, over which you need to pull a covering material (otherwise the cedar seedlings will be pecked by birds). Before spring sowing, cedar seeds first stratified: soaked in warm water (25-30 degrees) for 4-6 days, changing the water every other day.Then the pine nuts are mixed with well-washed wet river sand or peat chips and kept at room temperature, periodically stirring and moistening the mixture; through 50-60 days the seeds hatch. The hatched cedar seeds are planted (or taken out into the cold and stored until sowing at a temperature of about zero degrees). Spring sowing of cedar seeds is carried out in late April-early May depending on the weather; square meter sow 50-300 grams of seeds, planting them to a depth of 3-4 cm. After the shells fall off the seedlings, you can remove the shelter over the seedlings.
With thickened crops, cedar seedlings dive as soon as sprouts appear in the form of a bent knee. Cedar seedlings are dug up, sorted, the roots are trimmed and planted under a peg on ridges according to a 20x10 cm or 20x20 cm pattern, making sure to place the root collar at the same level in relation to the soil surface. You can prick cedar seedlings in the second year after germination. 2-3 years after picking, good planting material with a developed root system is obtained, which takes root well after planting in a permanent place. Plant a cedar, it deserves it."
Candidate of Agricultural Sciences A. Klebanov talks about growing cedar seedlings:
“The roots of a cedar seedling carefully dug out of a bed are preserved as much as possible, protecting them from breaking off and drying in the air after digging. The root ball of a cedar seedling is immediately moistened with water and the tree is planted in a permanent, sufficiently illuminated place, preferably on the same day (or dug in). Cedar seedlings it is better to plant a group of 3-4 trees (for cross-pollination) at a distance of 5-8 meters from each other. Lupine is sown between the cedar seedlings (it promotes better growth and development of the cedar). Along the perimeter of the crown of the cedar seedling, the soil is systematically watered, simultaneously adding minerals fertilizers, and in the spring - organic fertilizers.
From an early age, the crown of a cedar seedling is formed - the most effective is the “garden form”: a low-lying, spreading, multi-peaked crown (since the female flower buds of the cedar are formed mainly in the upper peripheral part). During the first 10-15 years of life, the lower branches of a cedar tree are gradually removed to a height of 2-2.5 meters from the ground. Cedar branches are removed with pruning shears at the level of the tree trunk, then the wounds heal faster (the place where the branches are cut is covered with garden varnish). You can avoid pruning cedar if you break off the lateral buds on the axial shoot in the first 3-5 years after planting a two- to three-year-old seedling. In this case, all nutrients and growth substances enter one central bud of the axial shoot. The growth of this axial shoot during the season increases by 2-2.5 times, and the need to trim the side shoots subsequently disappears. It is advisable to break out the side buds or trim the side shoots of the cedar to form a crown in the autumn-winter period, before the start of the growing season. An indicator of good survival and growth of cedar seedlings is dark green needles, a spreading crown with needles 4-5 years old, the growth of the axial shoot in the first years is at least 5-10 cm per year."
Florist V.M. Chernigovskaya grows bonsai from cedar seeds:
“I plant the sprouted cedar seeds in a bowl with drainage holes with a diameter of about 12 cm and a height of about 6 cm, I put a plastic grid on the bottom of the bowl and fill the bowl with substrate (loam, humus, sand in a ratio of 2:1:1). Within 1- I let the young plant take root for 2 months, then I wrap it around it with soft copper wire and begin to gradually give the trunk the desired shape. At this time, I begin liquid feeding of the cedar once a month. In winter, I give the plant rest: I keep the cedar at a temperature of minus two to plus four degrees, I water it rarely ; the duration of the rest period is at least 60 days.
At the end of the dormant period, I replant the cedar. Trying not to disturb the earthen coma, I cut off the roots from the outside. I add fresh soil to the bottom of the bowl, and gradually expose the roots from above by washing them with water. It is useful and aesthetically pleasing to mulch the soil surface with sphagnum.
When growing young cedars, it is important to carefully monitor the acidity of the soil using indicator paper (best acidity pH 6-7). Strongly acidic and alkaline environments inhibit plant growth and promote the development of infection. Acidic soil can be improved by watering with ash water; I prepare it by pouring a bucket of hot water into a faceted glass of wood ash and letting it sit for 24 hours. Alkaline soil can be neutralized with peat decoction: a glass of peat crumbs is boiled in 1 liter of water for 20 minutes, filtered, stored in glass bottles; Before use, a teaspoon of decoction is dissolved in 200 ml of water.
Starting from 3-4 years, when the cedar has already begun to branch, I change the wire for tying the stem. I pinch the top bud of the cedar to enhance branching. At the same time, I make small notches on the stem to slow down vertical growth and imitate aging. After a few years, the cedar trunk will become thicker, many side branches will form a crown. It’s beautiful if tufts of moss are visible between the exposed roots of the cedar, and pebbles are scattered here and there.
The troubles do not stop: regular watering, creating conditions for a dormant period in winter, pinching, moderate feeding in the summer during the period of intensive growth, annual replanting of the cedar. Over time, I increase the size of the bowl, using a box made of beech or oak planks.
Cedar bonsai will become the highlight of your interior. Growing bonsai is a difficult task, but the grown plant gives the joy of communicating with nature for many years. The crown shape and branch structure of bonsai are the same as that of a large tree, and bonsai are no larger in size than ordinary indoor plants. Next to bonsai you feel like a giant in the land of dwarfs."
All about conifers on the website website
|
|
Weekly Free Site Digest website
Every week, for 10 years, for our 100,000 subscribers, an excellent selection of relevant materials about flowers and gardens, as well as other useful information.
Subscribe and receive!
