home Garage heating Wood-burning cauldron. Do-it-yourself outdoor oven-cauldron

Wood-burning cauldron. Do-it-yourself outdoor oven-cauldron

Some dishes of Eastern and Caucasian cuisine are simply unthinkable to prepare correctly without the use of a cauldron. A cauldron is a unique cook’s vessel, which is a cauldron with a specific spherical bottom. This configuration of the cauldron ensures completely uniform heating of all layers of loaded products at once, which creates a kind of stewing or cooking mode.

But for the proper functioning of the cauldron, a special hearth is required - a special stove for the cauldron. Such a product may be the result of the following design options:

Industrial designs.
Stationary stoves made of cobblestones or bricks.
Homemade lightweight structures.

Industrial furnaces

A modern industrial cauldron oven, as a rule, is a well-thought-out and well-designed product. They have optimal sizes, are extremely functional and look elegant.

Examples include furnaces: Samarkand, Vesuvius and Samobranka

The stoves are made of steel and equipped with a retractable ash pan, which can be removed even during combustion. The grate of each of them is cast iron.

Industrial furnaces can be equipped with additional devices and equipment. The kit includes: a cauldron, a device for hot smoking, a scoop and a chimney pipe, if provided for by the design.

Made of brick

A stationary brick oven is undoubtedly the best option for properly heating a cauldron. Such a stove provides a more uniform distribution of heat, retains heat longer and has systems for regulating the combustion process itself.

Brick stoves can be of the simplest designs in the form of a stone cabinet, or in the form of complex complexes that can combine into a single whole: a barbecue, a wood-burning stove, a cauldron oven, a smokehouse, a barbecue, etc. In terms of design complexity, only the Russian stationary stove can be compared with such stoves.

A structure made of brick, and especially cobblestone, will certainly become a highlight in the landscape design of any personal plot.

Even a homemade stove-cabinet for a cauldron will require certain masonry skills with strict adherence to order, which will be very difficult for many. Therefore, lightweight metal cauldron stoves will be more suitable for summer cottages, garden plots or during outings.

Made of metal

If the construction of a brick structure is a rather complex procedure, then the manufacture of a metal stove for a cauldron, as well as a barbecue, is a completely achievable goal. Numerous drawings of various homemade products that are available on the Internet allow you to choose the best option for repetition.

From pipe scraps

A homemade stove made from a pipe is most attractive for its simplicity of manufacture and the minimum of all costs

Such a stove will require very few materials:

A suitable length of pipe, the diameter of which is determined by a certain calculation.
Small diameter pipe for a chimney with a diameter of ~ 110 mm.
Any metal profile that will be used to make handles and support legs.
A piece of sheet steel to form the bottom.
Two hinges for the door.

Next, the required pipe diameter is calculated according to the dimensions of the existing cauldron. All calculations are based on the generally accepted statement that exactly 2/3 of the body of the cauldron should go directly into the oven, and 1/3 remains open.

When calculating, the following are calculated:

Size H1, that is, the height of the cauldron.
Then the value of H1 must be divided by 3.
The resulting number is doubled and the result gives the value H2.
Next, according to size H2, a line D is drawn on the outside of the cauldron, which will determine the circumference of the required pipe.
If you need the exact diameter of the pipe blank, then the value D is divided by 3.14 (the number “pi”).

Having completed all the preparatory activities, you can begin to create a stove structure from a pipe with your own hands.

The process of creating a product:

According to the drawing, the blank pipe is cut.
A hole is cut for the firebox. The hole can be either round or rectangular. The cut out fragment will serve as a door.
To remove smoke, either teeth are simply cut out at the top of the pipe, which will serve as a smoke outlet, or a hole is made for the chimney pipe.
To create additional air flows, so necessary for the combustion process, a number of small holes are drilled in the blank pipe.
The bottom of the structure is formed from a sheet of steel.
Then the legs of the metal cauldron stove, portable handles and hinges for attaching the combustion door are welded.
Next, the chimney assembly is assembled, and the stove is considered almost ready.
The created stove for the cauldron must be cleaned, calcined and painted with a special paint that can withstand high temperatures.

Additions to the design of the created pipe furnace:

A section from a blank pipe will serve as a stable stand for any spherical utensils.
With a pipe stove, you can significantly increase the efficiency of regulating the combustion process. To do this, it is necessary to form an additional grate for firewood above the existing door and raise it to its level. As a result, we get an improved design, where there is not only a combustion chamber, but also a blower.

From a gas cylinder

An original metal stove for a cauldron can be made from an ordinary gas cylinder. In a simplified version, it might look something like this:

This elementary design of a stove for a cauldron, which is a camping version, has its own nuances:

The height of the furnace is not critical and is determined by the criterion of transportability.
In the upper part of the camp stove device, rectangular petals are cut, which ensure fixation of the cauldron at the optimal height in the body of the stove.
The slots between the petals serve to remove smoke, thereby replacing the chimney.
The firebox has no door, and the air supply to the firebox is regulated by partially covering the firebox opening.
This mobile stove also has no legs, since the base of the cylinder provides sufficient stability for such a product.

Naturally, for a summer house or personal plot it is more advisable to make a more serious structure from a gas cylinder. The above drawing for a pipe stove can be taken as a basis. The process of creating a full-fledged hearth for a cauldron from a gas cylinder is completely similar to the steps when creating a stove from a pipe.

Such a stove, thanks to its thick walls, is a fairly durable design.

Rims

A stove made from wheel rims is an equally popular, reliable and durable product, which is also easy to make with your own hands. You will get this very compact stove, made from a pair of car wheels:

To make this unique stove design you will need very few tools:

Welding device.
Bulgarian.
Cutting disc.
Means for cleaning the created furnace.
Marking and measuring tools.

Discs of suitable sizes are placed together and conversion can begin.

Direct creation of the structure is performed in the following sequence:

The upper disk is installed so that the fastening side is at the top and serves as a platform for installing the cauldron.
Then, taking into account the dimensions of the existing vessel, a round hole is cut out along the holes.
The lower disk, which will serve as the combustion chamber and base, is installed differently, that is, with the mounting side down.
The folded disks are leveled, and their joints are thoroughly boiled.
Next, the combustion chamber is formed. To do this, a rectangular hole with dimensions of ~ 20x12 cm is cut out in the lower disk. When marking the camera, a 2 cm indentation must be made from the lower disk edge. This will ensure the efficiency of the firebox and give the entire stove structure the necessary rigidity.
At this stage, the simplest outdoor stove is considered completely ready for use, despite the fact that its combustion chamber is open. The welded structure is quite suitable for cooking in a cauldron, but the draft will have to be adjusted by partially covering the combustion chamber, which is not entirely convenient. And its appearance is not entirely aesthetically perceived. Therefore, it is highly desirable to continue the transformation.
Now you need to make the firebox door. The door will be a fragment of a disk that was cut out when creating the combustion chamber. It is processed and fastening loops are welded to it. A regular bolt will serve as an excellent fire door handle.
At the end of the assembly work, the necessary functional accessories are manufactured and then welded - carrying handles and stability feet.
The completely created furnace structure from wheel disks must be cleaned, calcined and preferably painted with heat-resistant enamel or fire-resistant paint.

From sheet metal

The next option for a stove for a metal cauldron will require certain welding skills.

Such a homemade metal structure can be improved indefinitely

In the simplest version, all actions boil down to the following:

The circumference is calculated using the method described above, and a weld allowance of ~2-3 mm is added.
The height is determined either from practical considerations, or the drawings of the furnace structures presented above are used.
The necessary slots for handles, firebox and upper teeth are cut in the workpiece.
Then the workpiece is rolled into a cylinder and welded along the entire joint line of the sheet edges.
That's all. The oven under the cauldron is completely ready for use.

This simplest product has no chimney at all, since the serrated slots do an excellent job of removing smoke. In addition, such a stove does not have a bottom, that is, it is installed directly on the ground or on any foundation.

A shortened version of this stove goes well with a metal grill. The result is an excellent tandem of two chef's tools.

Here is a short overview of popular options for cauldron stoves. And there is no doubt that making a stove for a cauldron with your own hands is quite simple. The main thing is to correctly assess your abilities and financial capabilities.

A cauldron is a special dish in which it is easy to prepare dishes oriental cuisine.

But this requires special oven, which has its own pros: speed of assembly, high heating rate, relative mobility, possibility of manufacturing from improvised means.

From cons It should be noted: rapid cooling and burning, the difficulty is to find a high-quality thick-walled pipe.

Types of stoves for cauldrons

Among metal furnaces there are several types of structures:

simple, on which you can only cook dishes in a cauldron;
complex or multifunctional— for cooking, both a cauldron and other devices can be used, for example, a grill for frying meat or a mobile hot smoked smokehouse;
portable;
stationary.

The simplest The oven in question is made as follows: a cylinder is made from a pipe with an upper edge cut in the manner of petals, in which two holes.

On high 10 centimeters from the top edge under the chimney and approximately 10-15 centimeters from the bottom for the firebox. A grate is installed inside the firebox.

Another option to avoid mixing firewood with already burnt ash would be to make mesh bottom a stove on which firewood is placed, and burnt coals and ash are poured through holes in the bottom of the firebox onto the ground or a tray installed below.

For reference. Optimal size cylindrical part the design is about 800—900 mm, hole diameter for chimney — 100—110 mm, everyone chooses the height of the legs for themselves so that the cooking process is as convenient and safe as possible.

To avoid spilling firewood and coals, bottom edge it is advisable to place it at a height 100-120 mm from the bottom cylinder, and at a height of 350-400 mm do additional holes to feed the fire with oxygen.

How to make a stove from a pipe

The entire process of building a stove for a cauldron from a pipe consists of three main stages:

Preparation materials and tools necessary to create a furnace - selection of a pipe of optimal diameter, additional elements, electrodes that are suitable for a specific type of metal.
Creation drawing indicating the specific structural features of the stove and the dimensions of additional elements: at what height are the handles, holes, shape and height of the legs, etc.
Assembly furnaces in accordance with the created drawing and primary heating to identify possible defects and correct them.

Important! Each stage should be given maximum attention, since all of them together work towards the final result.

Selection of materials and tools

To build a furnace, you will need the following materials:

Thick wall pipe- the thicker the walls, the better, since such metal will functionally retain heat.
Pipe for chimney- depending on its diameter, a hole is made for the chimney in the stove body.
Metal corners for creating design handles, legs and additional elements of the device.
Metal plate for the bottom of the oven.

Grate- if the project provides for its installation.

As for the tools used for construction, these include:

Bulgarian and cutting wheels for it;
drill and metal drills to create small-diameter holes provided for by the furnace design;
welding machine and electrodes suitable for a specific type of metal;
hammer;
level;
protective gloves, goggles and welding mask.

Advice. All materials can also be selected from those available improvised means, for example, a thick-walled pipe can be replaced with a gas cylinder, and handles can be made from similar elements of old dishes.

Creating a Project

At this stage it is determined whether which scheme is preferable for a specific stove, whether it will be selected for an existing cauldron or in the future it is planned to select the cauldron to match the existing stove, etc.

The design stage is responsible for creating a drawing of a specific furnace, taking into account all its features. Such a drawing shows not only dimensions, but also location of all major holes, handles and other components.

Displayed at the design stage information about creating additional elements, for example, a table for food or firewood, are produced calculations of transportation possibilities designs.

DIY assembly: photo

Assembly is the main stage in the construction of a pipe furnace. Despite its apparent simplicity, when implementing it, deviating from the drawing is extremely undesirable, as this may lead to violation of design features and subsequent malfunction of the entire structure.

The oven assembly consists of certain steps:

Marking pipes - all holes created in the furnace are made in strict accordance with the drawn up drawing.
Incision pipes and all additional elements according to the applied markings - is carried out with a grinder using circles of different diameters, so you need to remember about safety precautions and protect your eyes and hands when working with this power tool.
Primary assembly for testing compliance of the holes made in the pipe body with the calculations in the drawing.

Photo 1. Checking the holes cut in the pipe using a measuring tape. The dimensions must correspond to the diagram.

Assembly designs using welding for the final design of the oven.

Important! When carrying out all operations with metal, it is necessary to protect yourself from possible injuries using safety glasses or mask, and gloves. Before starting work, check the equipment for any malfunctions.

When assembling the furnace, the following actions:

Top edge pipes and everything “extra” trimmed using a grinder - all uneven parts are subject to trimming, which can subsequently cause distortion of the structure.
After trimming the resulting check the cylinder using a level in horizontal and vertical planes.
On distance 10-15 cm from the bottom cut out hole for firebox. The remaining piece of pipe should not be thrown away, as it can be used to make door to reduce the fire hazard of the furnace.

Photo 2. Attaching the door to the stove using bolts on the side of the pre-cut hole for the firebox.

At a distance of approximately 10 cm from the top edge pipe, a hole is cut for chimney in accordance with the diameter of the selected pipe.
On the sides furnace to create additional oxygen flow is done several small holes using a drill or grinder - when creating them, you should take into account that too many of them can negatively affect the strength of the structure.
the chimney is welded to the main cylinder. The main condition of the chimney is its location at right or obtuse angles which is achieved by connecting the chimney pipe at an angle at 45 degrees.

Photo 3. A long chimney pipe welded to an almost completed stove at an obtuse angle.

Using a welding machine legs are mounted structures - everyone chooses their number and height, observing the basic rule: maximum stability of the resulting structure.
Welded into the base of the cylinder metal plate bottom, and if necessary use grate— a firewood grate is installed at the height of the lower edge of the firebox.
At the top of the device are attached pens.

Photo 4. You can place a cauldron on top of the finished stove, light a fire and start cooking.

After all these steps have been completed, it is advisable to carry out first heating ovens to diagnose possible deficiencies designs and their corrections. If no defects are identified, the device is covered fire resistant paint or special fireproof varnishes.

Possible difficulties

When making a stove for a cauldron from a pipe, problems may arise. various difficulties:

Metal, used in creating the design, does not melt, but burns. This may be caused by the small thickness of the metal or the high amperage used during welding. Correction option - either reduce the current(if this is the reason), or replace metal to be more durable.

Why do you need a separate oven for the cauldron? Why can’t you just put a pot (aka cauldron, Turkic) on the stove burner? Or stick it in the oven, or hang it on a tripod over the fire, like when camping? The fact is that from a culinary point of view, a cauldron and a pot are not the same thing. The pot is only part of the culinary technological equipment - the cauldron. The cauldron is intended for:

Cooking soups, stewing, boiling water.
Preparation of traditional dishes “with smoke”: triple fish soup, grenadier kulesh, tourist konder, etc.
Cooking traditional oriental dishes.

The technology of culinary production in all three cases is significantly different. Accordingly, the design of the cauldron changes. The only thing that remains unchanged is a cast-iron pot or a large cauldron; it is, so to speak, reloaded from clip to clip. So let's try to figure out why each clip is needed and how to make it with your own hands.

Cook-steam-simmer

Archaeologists have long been surprised by the incongruously small size of the fireboxes of ancient Roman culinary ovens compared to the size of the cooking utensils built into them. It was clear that the design was generated by economy; Italy had never been rich in fuel. But how did the Romans boil water using a small bundle of firewood with a heat release of barely 3000 kcal/kg in a cauldron in which a small person could bathe? There is no doubt that they were boiling: many sources indicate that water was continuously boiling in a large cauldron.

Over time, the secrets of the Roman cauldron oven were revealed. Firstly, smoke tooth 3 (on the left in the figure) in combination with the rise of the semi-circular arch of the woodshed 8 behind it formed the so-called. draft (emphasis on the first syllable) 4 – gas channel of variable cross-section without shut-off valves. The boiler for cooking and stewing 5 in it is simply a cooking vessel built into a cast iron or stone stove 2; There was a burner above the firebox. But the role of hot water boiler 6 is twofold.

Firstly, it represents an aerodynamic obstacle to the flow of gases, and their turbulence behind it creates an invisible gas smoke tooth before lowering into the chimney 7, which further traps the gases in the draft. Then, remember: the water in Roman boilers boiled all the time. The Romans used boiling water sparingly and, having scooped it up, immediately added fresh water.

Boiling requires a large consumption of so-called. latent heat of evaporation, so the gases near the boiler 6, lingering, cool further and their flow rate drops even more. Two clearly demarcated regions are formed: in the draft the thermodynamic process is closer to isothermal, and in the furnace to adiabatic. As a result, the zone of sharp cooling of the flue gases along the length of the draft is kept above the tooth. In a smooth draft, she would have the opportunity to jump forward, but in this scheme it is excluded by the rise of the arch of the woodshed behind the tooth, immediately behind the tooth there is a visibly distinguishable potential hole.

Note: There is strong evidence that the ancient Britons adopted the smoke tooth from the Romans, who then owned Britain.

As a final result, the firebox of Roman kitchen stoves turned out to be exactly the same as a bell-type stove in terms of gas dynamics, with high efficiency and self-regulating: the flue gases circulated in the firebox until they burned out completely. Only part of them passed over the tooth into the draft, carrying exactly as much heat as was needed to support the culinary process.

Note: The wood burner is an indispensable element of the Roman cauldron. Normally it only works on powder-dry fuel. Evaporation and partial pyrolysis of moisture from watered fuel in the furnace immediately disrupts all gas dynamics.

Nowadays, hot water in jugs is not carried around the rooms, but the Roman cauldron can easily be modified to meet the requirements of modern times, on the right in Fig. An aerodynamic barrier will be created by an oven in place of the hot water boiler, and heat extraction can be assigned to a hot water supply heat exchanger with a storage tank in the chimney lower. By the way, its best design in this case is 2-3 sections of an old cast-iron heating radiator.

Just bake under the cauldron

Stove makers have a very indirect interest in archeology, just as archaeologists do in the stove business, so Roman secrets are not used in practice. The usual design of a stove for a cauldron is simply a brick cabinet with a nest for a pot and a diaphragm (narrowing of the flue) at the level of its bottom. It is quite suitable for ordinary culinary procedures, but it requires much more fuel per unit volume of cooking. And only a fairly experienced stove maker can make a stove for a cauldron, despite its apparent simplicity. Why? See illustrations for the order in Fig.

About gas cauldrons

For regular pot cooking, the flame is simply a source of heat. Therefore, when choosing for yourself, you need to immediately consider the option of purchasing a gas cauldron without going through any complicated frills. There are many models on sale, from the most utilitarian to quite technically complex complexes with a set of separate gasifiers for different types of liquid fuel, incl. and processing, see figure on the right. The simplest gas stove for a 3-5 liter boiler costs 1800-2500 rubles, and omnivorous 6-15 liter boilers cost from 6000-7000 rubles. It's cheaper than any construction and can be justified not only for going on a picnic.

Dishes with smoke

To prepare dishes with smoke, it is necessary that it be light and curl over the surface of the brew; smoky dishes have almost nothing in common with smoked meats. From here it follows, firstly - no combustion and gas intricacies! If the fuel burns completely, where will the smoke come from? Secondly, the pot must be deep with a rounded bottom. From an aerodynamic point of view, it is an ogival-shaped body.

Pilav, beshbarmak, manti, etc.

Dishes of Turkic-Iranian cuisine are not prepared with smoke. But this does not mean that a regular oven with a cauldron is suitable for them; simple pilaf will not turn out the same. The fact is that oriental cuisine involves heating the cooking utensils mainly from the sides and uniformly distributing heat in the cooking mass, for which purpose the famous “four holes” are made in the pilaf.

How to achieve this is shown in the diagram of an outdoor pilaf oven in Fig. The trick is that the aerodynamic focus of the gas flows, firstly, is combined with the thermal focus of the furnace (marked with a red circle). Secondly, it is shifted down and forward from the longitudinal axis of the boiler in order to compensate for the aerodynamic asymmetry of the collecting gas channel. It occurs due to the fact that there is only one exit to the chimney. Of course, this stove also requires a pipe with a diameter of 160-200 mm and a height of 2.5-4 m, otherwise there will be no draft.

In the pilaf oven you can cook not only pilaf. The boiler is removable; instead, you can insert, for example. manta rays The order of the oven for pilaf is shown in the following. rice. Unlike the “simple” kiln mentioned above, here shaped bricks, complex underlay and laying out the diaphragm are not needed.

Arrangement of the oven for pilaf (

Build, make or buy?

Summarizing the above, we will determine why it is better to buy a stove, and why to make it yourself. For simple stewing and cooking, an oven with a cauldron is, of course, better to buy a metal one; prices are almost ridiculous now. The exception is if you are an experienced, gifted craftsman and intend to experiment with a Roman stove. If yes, then take into account that the gases enter the chimney at a temperature of 160-250 degrees and it is still quite possible to release them into the heating panel.

For cooking with smoke, homemade designs are better suited, especially since they are not at all complicated. In essence, any of them is a modification of a tripod over a fire. For those not inclined to technical creativity, it is also not difficult to purchase a ready-made one: cast iron stoves for cauldrons are available for sale in a wide range, see fig. Just keep in mind that “for smoke” you need round stoves with a plugged pipe and burnout holes at the top of the shell, on the left in Fig. Popular “Hephaestus”, “Picnics”, etc. It won’t be possible to adapt it for smoke, these are purely cooking stoves.

Finally, if you want to enjoy Central Asian dishes in all their deliciousness, then you need to consider the option of building a stove for a cauldron made of brick, and the firebox must certainly be fireclay, quickly absorbing heat and slowly releasing it. Now there are ready-made models on sale, the purchase of which will cost much less. A special section will be devoted to one of them at the end. Not for advertising, just as an example.

Barbecue and cauldron?

There are many sources on the Internet on the topic “Cauldron and barbecue”. But the very fact that they all contain 2-3 of the same orders suggests that a barbecue oven with a cauldron is not at all as simple as it seems.

Indeed, it’s easy to adapt a cauldron to a barbecue just for smoky cooking. In this case, the pot is simply suspended over the brazier. But creating a complete “barbecue with cauldron” complex is so difficult that it is probably completely impossible.

The fact is that the nature of thermal deformations (thermal stress field) in a brick oven under a cauldron and in a simple hearth, which, in essence, is a barbecue, is completely different. In a cauldron they are predominantly radial, i.e. it seems to be more or less evenly expanding in all directions; antinodes (clusters) of stress - in the corners. But the barbecue oven expands more laterally, and the main antinode of stress falls on the center of the roof of the brazier; Small antinodes are pressed into the corners of the niche.

In attempts to link the loads according to structural mechanics, structures are born that are not inferior in complexity to the structure on the left in Fig. In addition, this hulk has embedded load-bearing elements made of steel. Under the braziers and the roof of the cooking niche lie entirely on iron. Such a furnace will not last long due to different TCRs of metal and ceramics; the metal will bend over time due to variable thermal deformations and the masonry will collapse.

The only option for a barbecue with a cauldron is any, for example. garden, with a cauldron attached to the side, on the right in Fig. The foundation may be common, but a strong mechanical connection between the modules is unacceptable. That is, although the seam between the modules can be sealed for appearance, the masonry of the barbecue and cauldron must be separate. This, by the way, greatly simplifies the choice of project and work. In addition, modules can be built separately and projects for them can be selected separately.

Note: If a gourmet guy in a green jacket with gold buttons doesn’t come to your pilaf, and the barbecue already has a stove, then the problem is easily solved. You just need to buy a stove for a cauldron with a pot (pic. on the right). A good one will cost about 1,500 rubles, standard size. We remove the hob with the burner, put in the cauldron, and more or less decent pilaf, shurpa or beshbarmak is a matter of your skill.

Brazier and cauldron

It is just as difficult to design and build a barbecue and cauldron as a barbecue cauldron. But if it’s metal (a real barbecue is basically brick or stone), the matter becomes much simpler. We adapt it to the grill, or simply put one of the stoves described below under the pot in/on it, and you’re done, see fig. There is no need for separate fuel; you can rake excess coals under the cauldron. The pilaf is mediocre even for non-Asian tastes, but the smoky dishes are just right.

Video: complex brick outdoor oven with cauldron

About the pot

Before moving on to the description of stoves, let's touch on the pot. For a cauldron, it must have 4 “ear” handles. “Two-eared”, even if the handles are wide, has the annoying property of spilling the brew into the fire, seemingly without any apparent reason. Next, the depth of the pot:

For pilaf in a brick oven - deep, the depth is not less than the internal diameter along the rim. The profile of the inner surface is approximately parabolic. Wall thickness - from 4 mm for a 6-liter boiler to 20 mm for a 120-liter boiler.
For pilaf and other oriental dishes under a modern oven (see at the end) - relatively shallow, about 1/3 of the diameter in depth. It is best to use a standard boiler.
For dishes with smoke - hunting-tourist-fishing, deep, with almost vertical (5-10 degrees from the vertical) walls. The bottom can be either rounded or flattened. Material – cast iron is better, but aluminum is also possible.
For stewing, cooking, boiling - flattened (depth approx. 1/3-1/4 diameter) and with a flattened bottom.

Video: about choosing a cauldron

Various homemade products

The most popular and very good homemade stove for a cauldron is a sheet of any steel rolled into a wide pipe (shell) on a fireproof stand or simply on the ground; see the diagram in Fig. The proportions of the workpiece are approximately 3:4 (height/length). The proportions of the combustion opening are the same, and its area is 1/8-1/10 of the area of the workpiece. A fire door is not needed. You can cook in such an oven with smoke, good quality “Asia”, or simply cook and simmer.

At first glance, calculating the length of the workpiece is not difficult: we take the diameter of the pot along the outer edge of the rim, subtract 2.5-4 mm from it, for a 3-12 liter pot, respectively, and multiply by π = 3.14. We give another allowance for the welding seam (approx. 3 mm) and cut out the workpiece. We put the pot on, and it... either falls through or immediately gets stuck. Although, to prevent it from jamming due to expansion when heated, a cold pot in a cold stove should “fidget” by 1.5-2 mm in all directions.

The fact is that thin metal leads strongly when welding. In production, the exact dimensions of the workpiece and the welding mode are selected from prototypes, and the selection has to be made every time the grade or even batch of sheet is changed. And then accurately maintain the welding mode, which is impossible with the manual method.

In fact, the length of the blank for a metal stove should be calculated based on the INNER largest diameter of the pot. And then in the corners of the petals that form the rim of the oven, we make small, 1.5-2 cm, longitudinal slits, and bend the petals a little outward, and their edges upward, until the pot sits loosely on the rim. It is impossible to make the shell wider and bend the petals inward; due to thermal expansion, they will tightly dig into the pot and you will not be able to pull it out.

Note: There are many metal cauldrons of this type on sale, see fig. below. Price without boiler – from 300 rubles. Internet scammers often pass them off as branded Asian ones, see the end for details. Then the price is inflated to “Samarkand”.

For smoky and Asian cooking in such an oven you need different pots. For “Asia” - smaller, flattened, placed in the oven as described above, and always with a tight lid. Under the smoke - a larger one, sitting in the rim of the oven no more than 1/4 of its height, otherwise it will jam.

Note: In the age of the general hunt for scrap metal, the once popular cauldron made from holey boiling on bricks has been almost forgotten, see fig. And the smoky dishes, and even “Asia” on such an awkward monstrosity, turned out to be finger-licking good.

Video: camp stove for a cauldron

From a pipe and a cylinder

The simplest stove for a cauldron made from a pipe is just a section of it on bricks, on the left in Fig. You just don’t need to take asbestos-cement; after warming up, it shoots out with fragments. Cooking on such a stove can only be done with smoke; it is impossible to achieve the simmering required for “asia” and stewing.

The pot is hung on a tripod, the height of the suspension is adjusted according to the weather. If the person on duty in the tent is an experienced walker, the smoke curls over the condenser in an even roller and in a fairly strong wind, and the group bursts - it crackles behind the ears. However, already on the second day of the two-man hike with the abalak loaded according to the norm, everyone’s ears are cracking behind their shoulders. Even the “Hare Krishnas” (at one time they were really into hiking) are busy scooping up sandwiches with lard and stewed meat with a spoon from a jar.

For a summer house or a trip to a picnic, a slightly modified pipe, second from the left, pos. in Fig. Using a grinder, cut it crosswise at the top and bottom and spread the petals to the sides. It is advisable to drill holes in the lower petals and equip the stove with L-shaped pins with pointed lower ends. By pinning the stove to the ground with them, we dramatically reduce the likelihood of a culinary disaster. You can cook on a modified pipe, again, only with smoke.

Note: the length of the pipe section is 1.25-2 times the outer diameter of the pot.

A stove for a cauldron made from a household gas cylinder (on the right in the figure) allows you to cook oriental dishes. The design is quite similar to the sheet shell described above, but much stronger and more durable. Only instead of a rim of petals, a separate opening is cut for a small pot (to do this, they simply cut off the top of the cylinder), and around it on the upper bend of the body there are smoke holes, so the whole structure will be much stronger.

The opening for the pilaf pot is first made deliberately smaller, and then a drill with a grinding head is adjusted to the required diameter. Remember, a cold pot in a cold oven must be able to move horizontally to the sides by at least 1.5 mm!

Smoky dishes are cooked in a larger cauldron, as described above. But, if its bottom is rounded, you cannot place it in the opening! The opening in the cylinder does not have the elasticity of a rim made of a thin steel sheet, and the pot can jam even if it is shallow, especially if it is already quite smoked. In such a case, the stove-cauldron made from a cylinder is equipped with a concave cross made of a metal rod, the far right pos. in Fig.

Video: oven for a cauldron made from car rims

May there always be sunshine!

What is the solar constant? This is the amount of energy of our star per 1 square. m. surface placed perpendicular to its rays. Energy is taken into account across the entire spectrum of electromagnetic radiation, from ultra-long radio waves to ultra-hard gamma rays.

In space in Earth's orbit, the solar constant (just in case, in English su, not the Soviet Union, it is SU, but solar unit) is approximately 1366 W/sq. m. At a geographic latitude of 45 degrees without an atmosphere - about 966 W/sq. m. In summer in mid-latitudes, taking into account the influence of the atmosphere - slightly less than 800 W/sq. m.

Note: in summer, when the sun is high, the absorption of its radiation in the air is more than compensated by the fact that the atmosphere processes hard quanta carrying high energy (from far UV to super-hard gamma) into thermal radiation and visible light. This, by the way, is one of the reasons why orbital solar power plants, so popular in science fiction of the past, are not considered as projects in the foreseeable future. It is very difficult to catch “breakdown” quanta, and they damage solar panels and collectors. So far, ground-mounted solar power plants are proving to be more efficient and durable.

But what does all this have to do with fish soup and pilaf? The most direct: their preparation requires a thermal power of 230-240 W/l. If you take a cooking vessel that absorbs radiation well but conducts heat poorly, in order to reduce the return of heat to the air, then a properly designed reflector with an area of 0.7 square meters. m is enough to prepare 1.5-2 liters of food.

It is not known who and when were the first to make such calculations, or whether the homemade solar cooking oven was born on a whim, but already at the latitude of Rostov-on-Don or even Lipetsk it cooks and steams regularly, see fig. Moreover, an accurate reflector that gives ideal focusing is not required. A piece of cardboard covered with aluminum foil is enough, for example. baking sleeve. Metallized plastic is not suitable, it lets too much through.

However, a knowledgeable cook may object, 2 liters is not enough for a cauldron. Determined by centuries of experience in Central Asia, the minimum volume of cooking utensils for pilaf is half a char. This is a traditional volume measure (basket in Russian), not standardized. The size of the charyk varies quite a bit from place to place, but in any case, the pot for the cauldron must have a capacity of at least 4.5 liters.

And here an amazing circumstance is revealed: excellent pilaf in a solar oven is obtained even in a 1 liter ladle. Why is not yet clear. Most likely because when heated by radiation, the magnitude of the temperature gradient between the contents of the dishes and the volume of the firebox does not matter. Accordingly, the square-cube law does not apply here. Therefore, a thick-walled cauldron is not needed; you can cook in a solar cauldron in any pan.

It remains to deal with the reflector. It is not obliged to bring the rays “to a point”, but it must well capture and direct the scattered radiation of the sky onto the dishes, otherwise the solar constant will not be enough for a soup of giblets in Bukhara.

Currently, the problem of constructing such a reflector has been solved on computers. The drawing is in the figure, the materials have already been mentioned. For higher latitudes, the grid step and the size of the entire reflector can be increased, but there is no point in doing it north of the Ryazan parallel: the value of su does not reach culinary standards.

Note: The oven is assembled simply: the ends of the reflector at 73 degrees, according to the drawing, are inserted into the narrow oblique slots of the counter-reflector (narrow slot in the drawing).

About solar cookware

Cooking utensils for a solar oven do not have to be black and smoky. Its surface can also be light metallic. But it must be rough or grainy so that it gives a diffuse reflection. Then the reflector will reflect the radiation reflected from the dishes back onto it. And a directed polarized glare from a polished surface will go uselessly into space.

Note: By the way, the inhabitants of Central Asia themselves, in the age of high and energy-saving technologies, quickly learned to collect and use their natural wealth - the hot Sun. Household solar ovens "Uzbekistan" successfully compete with the Italian "Galileo" and French "Odelio" in the world market. The prototype of “Uzbekistan” was developed back in the USSR on an initiative basis, but given the then attitude towards “consumer goods” and cheap organic fuel, it waited in the wings until the present day.

Kazan and tandoor

Let us remember, but the second indispensable accessory of Caucasian-Asian cuisine is. Is it possible to somehow combine it with a cauldron? It is possible, and very simple.

Most of the commercially available ready-made tandoors are optionally, at the buyer’s request, equipped with a boiler and stands for it. There are tandoor stands for boilers on sale and separately. Tandoor boilers for pilaf have a special feature: triangular-shaped tides under the handles; they form a gap that allows the flue gases to escape. Such boilers are placed directly into the throat of the tandoor.

If you select a boiler for a homemade tandoor separately, you can take any suitable diameter. It’s easy to make a concave cross for a pilaf boiler, similar to that described for a stove made from a gas cylinder.

To prepare dishes that are smoky or require simmering at a low temperature, place a higher stand on the throat of the tandoor, see fig. And on the Armenian tonir they simply lay a crossbar and hang the boiler from it at the required height.

About Samarkand stoves

Stoves-cauldrons “Samarkand”

The Samarkand stove-cauldron (see figure on the right) completely replaces a brick stove for “Asia”, and is much cheaper: a culinary “Samarkand” with a 6-liter cauldron weighing 40 kg can be bought for 15,000 rubles. , and even the above-mentioned bai in a green jacket with gold buttons will not refuse pilaf from it. But the popularity of Samarkand has caused a fair amount of confusion.

Firstly, critics are indignant: where is the fireclay lining? Where are the problems with the collections? It was precisely these expensive parts that deprived the furnace of mobility that made it possible to abandon the Samarkand body made of modern heat-resistant steel. Having carefully calculated it in conjunction with a standard boiler, the designers achieved a simmering mode, like in a large brick oven. And the minimum volume of the boiler was reduced from 40-50 liters to 5-6. Thermal power for different dishes is regulated by the air supply to the firebox, and not by the choice of firewood, elm-chinar-saxaul-poplar, etc.

But the main confusion around Samarkand is that there are a lot of fakes offered on the Internet, often directly from the manufacturer. The company is not to blame here; it produces heating stoves with a hob and other different ones. And invisible merchants do not miss the opportunity to take an ordinary stove and sell it at a special price.

The initial screening of dubious offers can be done using releases and announcements from resellers. They, of course, have heard about V-1, 2, are familiar with the legends about V-3, but, to put it mildly, not very literate, they do not know that “V” is the letter of the German alphabet V, and the name itself "miracle weapon" comes from Vergeltung (fergeltung, retribution). Therefore, the company name is written Feringer, while it is called Veringer. The manufacturer's direct counterparties, of course, do not make such mistakes.

The next and final stage of verification of the proposal is already usual: we require a certificate for the stove. It must clearly indicate its purpose. In any case, even the original “Samarkand” priced at less than 15 thousand rubles. - ordinary. You won’t get “Bai” pilaf in it.

Dangerous competitor

In principle, the same type of heating of the food mass as in a cauldron can be achieved with the most ordinary pan. But for now – only in principle. Practically, induction cookers produce food for every day. However, microprocessor-based process control offers great potential without requiring radical changes in design. So who knows...

Finally

The reader may ask: is the game worth the candle? Pilaf like pilaf and ukha like ukha are made simply in a pan in the oven. Well, try cooking fish soup at least “over the pipe” this weekend at the dacha. Putting it on 4 pieces of brick is not a difficult task. And the result will show whether it is worth trying further.

I'm sitting in a swamp on a hummock

And I eat bread and sausage.

A stranger approaches me

Wet and scary barefoot.

“I fell into a swamp,”

He tells me sadly,

I left two whole bots there,

Sketchbook and theodolite,

Backpack with a very valuable shell

And what I cooked porridge in. –

He said so and plopped down next to him,

And he didn't say any more.

And he was so wet

And before that, barefoot,

That I shared bread with him,

And also sausage.

You can, of course, go out into nature for a few days and eat only bread and sausage, but, you see, most of us, when going for 2-3 days, for example, in the fall, to hunt feathers, certainly take a folding chair with us (so as not to sit squatting by the fire), a folding table (shouldn’t you put food and drinks on the ground?), a tent with mosquito nets (so that bloodsuckers don’t interfere with your cultural recreation and there is somewhere to hide from the sun or rain), a tent with a vestibule (no comments here at all) , a sleeping bag with a rug (whatever, sleep should be comfortable, because very little time is allocated for it), a portable gas stove powered by a spray can (so that in the morning before dawn, without starting a fire, you can heat up tea and soup , left over from the evening), a folding grill with skewers (here, too, comments are completely unnecessary), you can often see a portable chainsaw at a hunting camp (a convenient and useful thing, I must say) and much, much more... You gradually acquire all this camping stuff: This is where experience comes into play, and the lack of desire to endure inconvenience during not-so-frequent trips into nature, and the desire to save time on setting up a camp (a kind of table, bench and canopy, for example, can be made on the spot: dead wood + saw + ax + nails + skillful hands + TIME, although all this will not be so functional...).

In the same way, your humble servant, dear colleagues, when going duck hunting in the steppe regions of the Altai Territory and Novosibirsk Region, more than once thought about making a camp stove, but not a simple one, but one that:

1) it allowed you to save firewood, especially if the shard closest to the camp is a bit far away and you don’t run very hard for firewood, and you don’t even run into it;

2) would protect fire in rain and sleet;

3) would allow cooking even in strong winds (when there is a danger that grass, forest, reeds, etc. could catch fire from flying sparks);

4) it would be relatively safe to dry clothes near it;

5) it would be possible to cook a wide range of dishes on it: soups (shulyum, ukha, etc.), fry fish/meat in a pan and bake fish/meat in foil; bake shish kebab; boil tea (that seems to be all?);

6) would be reliable and stable, but at the same time light, compact and easy to transport;

7) provided an open fire (bonfire), where one could sit after lunch/dinner (after all, it is precisely the gatherings around the fire that we all often remember with nostalgia in the winter).

These are the somewhat contradictory demands I made for my project...

What I saw in stores did not suit me, to put it mildly. For example, I did not consider various types of closed structures with pipes at all (see paragraph 7). On the Internet, however, I came across interesting creations, but not everything there was as I would like (besides, most of them were made by craftsmen in factory conditions using special equipment and free stainless steel, but I have such capabilities and skills, Unfortunately no)…

Thus, the main question was: what to make from, i.e. WHAT to take as a basis?

The most convenient in this regard for me seemed to be a 30-liter steel beer keg: here you have ready-made handles, the absence of sharp corners, a convenient diameter, durable and light material, and a completely suitable volume for the firebox. And finding a used keg these days is as easy as shelling pears: there are quite a few companies that sell them (you just have to make a request in any search engine).

So, first of all, use a grinder to cut out the neck of the required diameter. “Necessary” means such that when you place your largest cauldron on the stove, it can rest firmly on the upper rim of the stove (where the keg handles are) and at the same time, that the cauldron tightly closes the hole of the cut neck with its lower part.

Now about the firebox itself: the door is also cut out with a grinder on the side of the keg and screwed to the stove using a hinge and bolts (you can use the most common hinge - bought at a hardware store or a building materials store). The latch on the door is at personal discretion. I personally made it so that the stove with coals could be moved from place to place without fear that something would fall out of it at your feet. Although, perhaps, someone will find the latch unnecessary...

We drill several holes in the bottom and along the lower rim of the keg so that there is traction again when we close the firebox.

Don’t forget to remove all burrs with a file as you work, so that you don’t get hurt on them later and spoil your hunting belongings during transportation (we probably don’t need to tell you how we all know how to compact things in the trunk of a car).

Well, the last thing you need to do is find a lattice and cut out of it a square with truncated corners of such a size that:

1) this very grill could be pushed through sideways and placed on the bottom of the stove (during transportation);

2) you could put the grill on top of the neck and cook a barbecue on it, bake meat and fish in foil, boil tea in a kettle or pot, or put a brazier.

This is what I ended up with:

View from above:

This is how kebabs are prepared on the stove (no need for a separate grill or skewers):

And this is how the cauldron is installed on it (it is held on, as I already wrote, quite firmly):

Here's how to boil tea:

Unfortunately, I couldn’t photograph how to fry fish on a frying pan - the batteries on the camera ran out, but believe me: it’s done quite easily and naturally.

Regarding drying clothes: while cooking, we install a camp chair next to the stove (or drive pegs into the ground) and hang clothes (jacket, pants, socks). There is no open flame, so you don’t have to be afraid of the flames, you just need to place your clothes at such a distance that not the heat, but the heat from the stove reaches your clothes.

To transport the stove, I bought a strong, large plastic bag - this is so as not to stain the trunk of the car and things with soot.

When transporting, you can put pre-prepared firewood in the stove, or fragile things that can be crushed or broken during transportation (just pack them in a bag so they don’t get dirty). Oh, by the way, I completely forgot to say the main thing: during the sea trials of the stove, I burned about 1.5-2 times less firewood than on previous trips, when everything was cooked on an open fire.

In conclusion, I would like to note once again: I personally need such a stove for trips for several days to the steppe regions, where firewood is, to put it mildly, tight. Well, approximately like this (photo taken from the camp, standing with his back to the lake):

Of course, you don’t need to take such a stove with you when going on a running hunt, for example, in winter to hunt a bunny :-) . Perhaps it will not be of interest to taiga fishermen, who, when going into the taiga, carry all their belongings on themselves (what a stove there is!). But for those who travel to a hunting spot by car and plan to live there for several days, preparing hunting delicacies with smoke, I think this stove will be interesting.

Thank you for your attention. Good luck to all!

The author of the “SNEJKOFF” channel shared his experience of making a stove-stand for a cauldron from a beer keg.
Some time ago a 12 liter cauldron was purchased. I had to make an outdoor stove for him. Many options were considered. I wanted to make it out of sheet metal. A piece of suitable pipe was looked for. Then a keg for transporting beer was found in the attic of the garage. It served its purpose, but was suitable for the stove. The result was a stove like this.

Let's see in detail how the master worked with his own hands. To begin with, the stove was placed on four supports from the 12th rod. Tens of ribs. That is, 4 supports. The stove is stable.

At the same time, this space is used as a kind of firewood. Comfortable. The height of the stove did not allow making a separate vent hole. Everything was combined into one plane. That is, when you open the door, you immediately see a place where the firewood is stored. A circle was welded from the twelfth reinforcement and round timbers from the 12th were welded to it. A grate was made, which raised the firewood so that it did not lie at the bottom of the stove, but so that it was a little higher. There are air duct holes in the door for air intake. Everything turned out fine, successful. The cauldron oven has been tested. We've already cooked on it. There are enough holes to cook everything and work with the door closed.

The keg itself has many technological holes. In particular, handles were carved for carrying. This place is covered with a decorative metal strip. All kinds of holes are simply closed - bolts with a round head and forge-stamped flowers. Carrying handles are made from two purchased “currencies”. They were cut in half and made into these handles.

An outdoor cauldron 45 centimeters in diameter also fit the stove. The work area heats up normally. Exhaust pipe from 89 drainpipe. The elbow is welded at 90 degrees. The pipe was cut to 45. A strip of metal was used. The shank is made from three. They screwed it in, made a coupling and a bell. The pipe is removed. Dresses tightly. Convenient when you need to carry it. The pipe is disassembled.
At first there was no table. It's not convenient without it. After some thought and a little experimentation, a table was made from the twelfth circle. Ten. The table is made removable.