How to straighten the slope of the house if the stove leaned. How to fold the oven with your own hands drawings and construction technology: step by step instructions, video

Wooden houses are very popular. However, after several decades of operation, these structures have to be overhauled. It consists in replacing the lower rows of rotten logs or raising and strengthening the foundation. In order to carry out such repairs, it is necessary to raise the building.

What structures can be raised

For major repairs, only one-story buildings of the following types are raised: from wooden beams; from rounded and other logs; panel wooden houses.

Structures timber or hardwood, for example, larch and oak serve for quite a long time. Until now, there are houses of pre-revolutionary construction, and this is over 100 years old, which have retained their almost original appearance.

Modern wooden buildings are not so durable. The reason for this is the quality of the timber, which became especially susceptible to various diseases after the start of the "atomic era" and the ongoing nuclear bomb tests.

In this regard, structures made of wood are necessary every 15 - 20 years scrutinize to identify signs of rot and the appearance of fungus, especially the lower crowns of wooden houses suffer from this.

Signs of problems

There are several such signs and they can be seen almost with the naked eye. Namely: partial or complete violation of the foundation of the house; deepening into the ground of the foundation; subsidence of the structure in one of the corners; a large skew of windows and doors, as well as the slope of the building.

After inspection and identification of many more additional work, a decision is made to raise the house. Simultaneously create a plan, according to which they acquire the necessary building materials and tools. In addition, the following major renovations are planned:

• replacement of rotten crowns of the building;
• prevention of further subsidence;
• alignment of the skew of the entire box around the perimeter;
• wood treatment with chemicals from decay;
• full or partial replacement of the foundation.

Such great work carried out within 1 - 2 weeks, involve the whole family and several invited experts.

Preparing to raise the building

Before lifting the house, it is necessary to carry out actions that ensure ease of lifting and further repairs. This is done for safety net in case of sudden and unforeseen destruction of the structure. It is imperative to do the following:

In many houses, the floor is arranged on logs, which have their own columnar foundation. The walls of this building are connected to the floor only by skirting boards, which will also have to be removed. In addition, the upper crowns, on which the rafters are attached, must be well connected reliable blocks 50 mm thick or bars so that the roof does not part. You also need to separate the veranda attached to the wall.

When everything is ready choose suitable jacks for wooden houses. For ordinary standard buildings with a total area of ​​60 to 100 sq. meters, hydraulic jacks with a lifting capacity of 5 - 10 tons are quite suitable. You need at least 2 of them. Drivers of heavy trucks always have such lifts.

Cooking wooden pallets with a thickness of at least 50 -- 80 mm, on which jacks for lifting and steel plates under the heads of these devices will be installed. There should be a small indentation in the center of them to prevent the jack from slipping.

Instructions for raising the house

In practice, the lifting of the house is carried out quite rarely, but if it has already been done, then they do all the work that is possible during this event. This includes the replacement of rotten lower logs, and the treatment with chemical compounds from the fungus, and a complete repair of the foundation. At the same time, the building frame is leveled.

Logs prepared to replace rotten ones must be dry, free from bark beetles and treated with special solutions that protect against moisture. Bricks for the foundation are chosen well-burnt and red. They are suitable for corners, withstand loads of several tons and are not afraid of dampness. It is also necessary to prepare cement and sand for mortar.

All actions to raise the building are done slowly and clearly taking precautions. It is best to start such an event in the morning.

To raise the house with your own hands, the step-by-step instruction says the following:

1. Start from the most sagging corner. At a distance of about a meter from it, they dig a recess in the ground to install a jack with flooring. The soil must be firm and dry.
2. The lift is brought under the lower log, and, subject to its integrity and strength, a prepared steel plate is placed under the head of the device. If the log is rotten, then cut a recess for the jack pin to a stronger surface.
3. Proceed directly to the rise of the corner. Do it carefully. The lifting height should not exceed 5 - 6 cm at a time. At the same time, the prepared supports and stands are wedged in to lighten the load on the lift.
4. Carefully inspect the structure to identify unforeseen complications.
5. In the presence of two jacks, the second corner is prepared for raising. They also dig a recess for the pallet, on which they put the next lift. They bring it under the log, put a plate on the head and raise the house. Prepared bars and dies are installed under the lower crown.
6. Put the jack in the middle of the log. They do the same operations. They raise it a little, by about 2 - 3 cm. Be sure to put stops.
7. Return to the first corner. Raise, trying to level the frame, but no more than 6 - 7 cm. Be sure to insert supports from chocks or blocks. They try to make sure that the entire side is on supports.
8. Look at the building again.
9. Jacks are removed from reinforced and raised corners and the other side is prepared for lifting. Perform similar actions.
10. Return to the first two corners and lift the house until the entire box is completely level. This is checked by the water level.
11. The building must be raised clockwise or counterclockwise until the entire structure is level.
12. Reliable supports are placed under the walls under the lower crown around the entire perimeter of the building.

After the house is raised, it reinforced on all sides with props. Then the repair work necessary for this object is carried out.

Unlike a large house, a bathhouse can be raised faster. This takes 1-2 days. In some cases, it is raised in a few hours. The speed of work depends on experience. If there is no experience in how to raise a bath on jacks, a video that can be easily found on the Internet can help with this.

Heating with wood is hard work. Firewood must be prepared, dried, brought - all this takes time and requires strength. Therefore, a prudent owner always tries to use the energy of each log as much as possible.

When designing or modifying a wood-burning heating system at home, one should remember the basic rule - all elements must be proportionate, optimal and make up a harmonious system. A huge firebox with a small heat removal will reduce the level of efficiency, and vice versa, excessive heat removal will lead to problems in operation.

The concept of "efficiency" means how much of the energy released during combustion is transferred in the form of heat to the heated room. This characteristic is influenced by a number of factors:

• Serviceability and cleanliness of the oven.
• Type of fuel burned.
• Burned fuel mode.
• heat transfer method.
• Thermal efficiency.
• Availability of additional prefixes to fuel.

Serviceability of the stove

A significant decrease in the efficiency of the furnace occurs if it is used incorrectly. There are various ways to burn wood, and if it is not fired correctly, heat energy will be wasted.

The soot deposited on the walls of the heat exchanger is an excellent heat insulator. To increase the efficiency of the furnace, it is necessary to periodically, once every 2 months, clean all important parts from soot.

Attention! Soot in the furnace channels and chimney can catch fire, do not allow deposits to accumulate in the heating system. Soot fires are a common cause of fires!

The right fuel for the stove

It is known that different types of wood give different amounts of heat. You can increase the efficiency of the stove by using the right fuel. Hardwoods - oak, acacia, ash - have a greater calorific value. In addition to density, an important characteristic is the moisture content of firewood. Firewood with a moisture content of 15% is considered optimal, but such indicators can be achieved either using a drying chamber or natural drying under a canopy for 2-3 years in ventilated stacks.

Optimal combustion modes

The mode of fuel combustion is also important. You can burn fuel efficiently in different ways:

1. In the mode of pyrolysis decomposition and afterburning of gases.
2. Optimum fast burning mode with sufficient oxygen supply.
3. Layered combustion of fuel from top to bottom.

Pyrolysis mode

When burning fuel in the pyrolysis mode, the efficiency of the furnace increases due to the long burning time. The firebox is divided into two chambers - a smoldering combustion chamber, where, in a slow mode, firewood decomposes into pyrolysis combustible gases, and a gas afterburning chamber. Technically it looks like this:

1. Firewood is laid in the firebox, initially burning occurs in a hot mode with a large amount of air supplied. This stage is necessary in order to create a fire cushion on wood, as well as warm up the chimney and the secondary afterburner.
2. The firebox door is closed. The air supply is set to the minimum - so that it is enough for smoldering. Firewood decomposes into smoky pyrolysis gases that pass through a red-hot afterburner.
3. The second chamber has secondary air ducts. They are aimed at the catalyst - a massive red-hot ceramic or metal object. In some furnaces, the wall of the secondary chamber acts as a catalyst.
4. Relatively cold pyrolysis gases, passing through the catalyst, heat up, mix with air and burn.

Thus, complete combustion of firewood is achieved. The efficiency of installations for pyrolysis combustion can reach 85 - 90%.

Cons of this method of burning firewood:

1. Difficulty in achieving optimal combustion.
2. The impossibility of altering existing fireboxes.
3. Cold gases in the chimney turn into condensate, which floods the chimney.

The advantages of this combustion method:

1. Duration of work on one tab. In Buleryan ovens, one bookmark is enough for it to burn for 5-8 hours.
2. With the correct design of the firebox, the efficiency is high.
3. Consistency of generated energy.

forced combustion

Fast combustion of firewood in a firebox with enough air will be optimal only if there is a large heat exchanger that can quickly store and retain a large amount of heat. Ideally, in this case, the use of water as a coolant, and a large insulated tank as a heat accumulator.

To burn a large amount of fuel in the optimal mode, you will need an ash chamber and a grate. You can organize them in any existing firebox made of two metal plates or bricks. The installation of an ash pan in an already finished furnace will reduce the volume, but will add combustion efficiency.

How it works:

1. A large amount of fuel is immediately put into the combustion chamber, which will burn in the entire array from the bottom up.
2. After kindling, the main door closes, the ash pan door opens, and combustion is regulated.
3. The flame should be even, hot, without jerks of detonation and pops. Flame color - straw with red or blue streaks.
4. In this express mode, combustion continues until coals are formed. The ash pan door is closed, the firebox works in slow mode.

Application Features:

• A grate oven can be turned into a hearth oven by covering the grate with a sheet of metal.
• Brick channels or a massive bell structure can provide good heat removal. The wrong ratio of a powerful firebox and a small heat exchanger will lead to a significant amount of heat being blown out into the street.
• You can not use this mode with poor traction - this will lead to smoking inside the room.
• Not every firebox can withstand the heat of combustible dry firewood. A simple red brick or thin metal can burn through or crumble. If possible, use this mode in furnaces lined with fireclay bricks.

Gradual combustion of fuel

Fast mode with layered burning of firewood can be achieved using special air supply systems. This solution is implemented in Stropuva long-burning boilers, but simple furnaces are quite suitable for retrofitting.

One or more air ducts from pipes are inserted into the furnace. Their purpose is to supply air to the place of combustion. Air ducts go from the door to the top of the firebox. Slotted holes are cut in the vertical sections of the air ducts. The firebox works like this:

1. Firewood is tightly packed into the firebox, they can be sprinkled with sawdust or peat. On top of the bookmark kindling is kindled from paper and wood chips. Until it flares up, the firebox operates in the mode of a conventional hearth furnace.
2. When the kindling flares up, smoothly close the opening of the firebox with a sealing metal sheet. The sheet has holes for air ducts. The sheet must fit snugly to prevent air from entering the thickness of the fuel.
3. The fuel burns using air from the duct. The combustion is optimal, but gives a small amount of heat.
4. Fuel burns out gradually, first of all it burns out near the air duct. If the fuel burned out far from the tube, the air may not reach the combustion source. It is worth positioning evenly several air ducts connected to one intake hole.

The advantage of this method of combustion is only one - a long period of battery life. The increase in efficiency is achieved due to the gradual combustion mode, even a small heat exchanger is able to capture heat and transfer it to the room. This method is perfect for upgrading stoves and wood-fired boilers, but it is not suitable for brick ovens. The advantage will also be the ease of retrofitting existing fireboxes - anyone can design and manufacture air ducts and a sealing plate from pipes and sheet metal.

Cons of this method of burning firewood:

• Difficulty loading firewood.
• Difficulty of kindling.
• The complexity of controlling the intensity of the flame - it will not work to open and “look”. You will have to use indirect methods - a thermometer in the heat exchanger.
• The inability to "throw" firewood.

Heat removal optimization

It is possible to raise the efficiency of the heating system by removing a large amount of heat and transferring it to the room. You can do this in two ways:

1. Infrared radiation - from a burning flame or hot walls.
2. Heating air or water in the furnace.

Open flames were traditionally used to heat hearths in Europe. A trendy fireplace has a low efficiency, but it uses only infrared radiation. The light of a burning flame in conventional stoves is used to heat the walls of the firebox. In most cases, heating the firebox is of no use. You can use part of the heat radiated during bright burning with a transparent door of a large firebox. Using plain glass will not work - it can burst. Heat-resistant glass is inserted into the doors.

The stoves of the calorific type proved to be effective. The Winter Palace, the Hermitage, the Arsenal were heated by Uttermark stoves. The burning fuel heated the pipes in which the air moved. Such heating made it possible to obtain fantastic results in terms of speed and efficiency. By laying dry pipes in the furnace, you can quickly heat the room with dry warm air. In residential premises, forced air, inflow from the street and humidification can be used. So you can get the opportunity to regulate not only the temperature, but also the humidity, as well as the amount of carbon dioxide. Minus - the complexity of implementation in ready-made brick kilns.

By inserting a central heating circuit into the oven, heat removal can be increased and heat can be efficiently transferred throughout the building. An increase in the heating efficiency in this case is achieved by an increase in the heat exchange area, less heat flies into the pipe.

We build a furnace with high efficiency

Consider examples of building furnaces from scratch, in which the approach to increasing efficiency is brilliantly executed.

Kuznetsov brick kiln

The increase in the efficiency of this furnace is carried out by complete and hot combustion of fuel, secondary combustion of pyrolysis gases, free movement of gases, and a large heat exchange area. A large mass of bricks perfectly accumulates and retains heat. The bell design is popularly called "greedy" - the temperature of the outgoing gases is lower than that of conventional channel furnaces.

To build such an oven, you need to follow the following steps:

1. We are preparing a project for the furnace. Ready-made projects are freely available, they can be modified to fit your needs.
2. Preparation of tools and materials. A mason's hammer, a trowel, a level, a plumb line, an angle grinder with a diamond disc - you don't need more to build a brick oven. We buy red oven bricks and refractory fireclay bricks - for lining the furnace. The temperature in the furnace can rise above 900 degrees, the red brick may well crumble. Doors are better to choose cast iron, with seals and glass. Clay can be dug up in the nearest quarry, diluted with sand.
3. We are preparing the foundation. To do this, we determine the place, dig a pit and fill it with rubble concrete. The upper level of the foundation should be 14-15 cm below the floor level. It is better to place the stove in the center of the house, be sure to calculate the passage of the chimney through the floors.
4. We lay out the first rows of the furnace on the cement mortar, the rest of the stove is placed on the clay. We lay thermal insulation and waterproofing between the brick and the foundation. The first row is the most important, all the planes of the furnace will be guided by its corners.
5. We tie the ash pan and side channels. We take into account the size of the doors for cleaning. If they are not there, we lay the brick on the edge, it will be knockout.
6. We close the ash pan, lay the first row of fireclay. We lay a cast-iron grate on the bottom of the firebox, under which a groove is selected in a brick with a gap of 1.5 cm.
7. We lay out the firebox with refractory bricks. We provide a gap between fireclay and red brick. It is convenient to lay the packing carton as a template. Chamotte is placed on refractory mortal clay. When laying fireclay, a dry seam is made at the back wall - laying without mortar with a gap of 1 cm. It is needed to facilitate kindling and access of secondary air.
8. We lay out the walls of the furnace, we carry out the turns of the moves. We install the door on the anchor plates or wire.
9. We block the firebox, form the first cap. We control the level of all horizontal and vertical planes. We rub the seams from the inside with a damp mitten.
10. We lay out the second cap, cover it with two rows of bricks - ceilings.
11. We remove the chimney. It is best to use a straight brick pipe, lined and insulated with perlite.
12. We dry the oven for 2 months with the cleaning doors open, after which we bring it to the regime with frequent, but small fires. This is necessary so that the oven does not crack.
13. To increase the efficiency of the heating system, a heat exchanger from pipes can be laid in the first cap. The heat in the cap lasts for a long time, so the coolant will be heated for a long time and evenly inside the massive furnace.

Kuznetsov's bell-type stove is a vivid representative of the principle of rapid combustion of firewood, heat accumulation in the stove mass and its gradual return from the heated walls in the infrared way to the room.

Furnace "Buleryan" - the leader in terms of efficiency among metal furnaces

Metal furnace of long burning "Buleryan". The high efficiency of this furnace is ensured by the pyrolysis mode of combustion, the furnace of this furnace consists of dry pipes. The temperature of the gases leaving the air heaters does not exceed 150 - 200 degrees, the air does not burn out and does not dry out. If Buleryan is not heated correctly, in hot mode, its efficiency can be compared with any potbelly stove.

To build Buleryan, we need metalworking skills, the ability to make sealed welds. Accordingly, you will need a welding machine (preferably a semi-automatic MIG), an angle grinder, a metalwork and measuring tool. You will need a pipe bender to bend pipes, but this can be replaced with a large lever.

• It is not difficult to find materials for the furnace - you need 10 - 14 pieces of pipes for the frame, sheet metal, blanks for the door and hinges.
• First of all, a frame is welded from pipes bent according to a template. It turns out a kind of "chest", the gaps between the "ribs" must be hermetically sealed.
• A shelf of the secondary chamber is installed inside the resulting frame. We measure it using a cardboard template, bend and weld it. After we weld the last ribs, secondary air pipes are laid.
• We muffle the ends of the resulting cylinder, remove the chimney from the afterburner chamber, weld a round door in the front end. We seal the joint of the door with a lock filled with asbestos cord.
• We attach gate valves-regulators on the chimney and air intake.
• The oven is ready for installation. When connecting, it is important to remember that the chimney can get very hot. Slow firing can lead to condensation, so it is better to use a stainless steel chimney flue.

The Buleryan stove is a bright representative of long-burning calorific stoves without a heat accumulator, with a rapid transfer of heat into the air. You need to heat it in pyrolysis mode, with a minimum air supply.

Experimental folk methods for increasing efficiency

There is information that the efficiency of the furnace can be increased if heated steam is supplied to the fuel combustion zone. The burning of water is a controversial phenomenon, it is surprising. Users of water combustion systems claim that heat output is increased by 20%. The nature of the phenomenon is as follows: water is supplied through the furnace to the fuel combustion zone.

From the high temperature, water decomposes and re-burns, which increases the temperature in the firebox, saves gas.

You can increase the efficiency of a wood-burning stove by making a rocket-type firebox. Combustion in such a firebox occurs below, the firewood is installed horizontally and falls under its own weight into the combustion zone. Burning is bright, and occurs due to traction. Users of such fireboxes claim to save firewood and have a long self-burning time.

Additional factors for improving home heating

It is possible to improve the heating of the house not only by finalizing the furnace and heat removal. By reducing the heat loss of the building, you can achieve more significant results. Installing high-quality windows, insulating ceilings and walls, installing an air recirculation and recovery system is sometimes cheaper than redoing a heating system.

When improving heating, it is worth using only proven methods to improve fuel combustion. In this case, it is better to calculate the savings and the funds spent on re-equipment.

Despite the fact that many today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating facilities do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of furnaces, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to be too early to turn on autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and save them from excessive moisture. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere in the house and a temperature balance that is comfortable for a person.

Therefore, a search query on how to fold the oven with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell you in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove-maker at all are showing a desire to try their hand at this craft. If a decision is made to install a stove in the house on their own, then beginners are recommended to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, what area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - this is heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions at once in their "feature set". Therefore, in order to determine the desired model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry fruits and vegetables for the winter.

The heating and cooking stove is often built into the wall or acts as a wall itself - for this it is turned with a stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall into the living area of ​​​​the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and getting the opportunity to cook in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both active at the same time. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

Such a structure is being built both for the main heating of the house, and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its ability to cook, or in a large house in terms of total area, where several stoves are being built that perform various functions.

In a summer cottage in a small house, it is better to install a multifunctional building that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking oven is being built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it of heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast-iron stove warm up well, giving off heat to the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

A lot of different models of all the listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be quite miniature, and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the oven?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and give off heat as much as possible to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, you need to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

The oven brick structure can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed later.

• To get the most out of the stove, you shouldn't place it near an outside wall of a building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
• Some models of stoves are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure may have a different decorative finish, made in a style corresponding to the design of a particular area of ​​the room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the generated heat as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of walls, ceiling and attic floor in the place of passage.
• When choosing the installation site, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that each side of the foundation for the furnace must be 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• In order to accurately determine the size of the base and the height of the oven, it is recommended that you always select the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.

Having chosen a place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functionality of the stove model, and the masonry tools used are always the same.

Tools needed for masonry work

To work, you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Of the tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation, you will need:

• Rule - this tool is used to level the surface of the foundation poured with concrete.
• A pickaxe is needed for splitting and hewing bricks.
• Veselka - a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and remove the dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
• A whisk made of bast is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and mortar that have entered them.
• Lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
• The building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• Scriber - a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• Construction corner with a ruler to check the correctness of the external and internal corners, as they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used to bend and cut off the wire to fix the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the masonry joints.
• Rasp - This tool is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps in dried masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and parsing old masonry.
• A rubber mallet is needed to level the brick laid on the mortar by tapping.
• (trowels) of different sizes are used to apply mortar when laying bricks and remove the mixture that has come out of the seams.
• Jointing - a tool for leveling the mortar in the seams of the masonry. It is used in the event that the masonry is made "for jointing", without further cladding.
• A manual rammer will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing mortar and clean water.
• Sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.

• Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for the comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not contact each other in any way, and even more so - be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will cause damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

In the case of building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected model of the furnace is not too massive, then the structure can also be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material at the installation site.

The foundation must have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it, along which the boards will be cut.
• Then, in the soil of the subfloor, a pit is dug in the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic wrap or roofing material.

• Then, a sand cushion with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is laid out on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual rammer.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with gravel, which, if possible, is also compacted. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing material remains inside it, and then fixed to the walls with a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will retain the solution poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from escaping from it, which will allow the slab to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should be about 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished base so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step in the formwork, at its entire height, is a reinforcing grate made of steel reinforcement with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The rods are connected to each other by wire twists.
• Further, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm, you can pour a rough concrete mortar mixed with cement and gravel in proportions of 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of an average fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a conventional concrete mortar of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The flooded one is leveled by the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and drown a reinforcing mesh with 50 mm cells into the solution by 15 ÷ 20 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is again leveled, and if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork on top of the grid.
• Further, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
• On top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing is laid, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are stacked one on top of the other.

• To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the furnace base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and keep the sides and corners even.

After these preparatory work, you can proceed to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar design, first produce it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The whole building rises dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the furnace model.

When performing dry laying, it is necessary to observe the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to be maintained the same throughout the entire masonry, slats 5 mm thick can be used. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of laths when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, laths must be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the furnace.

As an example of the use of rails, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is made for jointing, and will not be further finished with additional decorative materials.

When laying dry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the furnace and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then it will be necessary to shift part or even the entire structure of the furnace, since a reverse draft may form, and the room will smoke during kindling.

Having lifted the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole ones, but also their small fragments were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded in a separate pile, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each of the rows is also affixed. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it in turn and lay it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

Performing the main masonry, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution with a thickness of 60 ÷ 70 mm is applied. Then a brick of the upper row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests on the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can only be pulled out of the seam after the mortar has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no certainty that the vertical seams will be of the same thickness, a short rail can also be prepared for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after the alignment of two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration rails out of the seam, a sufficiently deep gap will remain between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order with the help of jointing.

Processing of seams "under jointing"

If the calibration rails were laid on both edges of the brick, then recesses between the seams will also remain on the inside of the wall. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar over the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on a mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not skew.

Simple aids such as sizing bars will help you lay neatly with even joint widths. Therefore, the entire surface of the furnace will look as if the design was made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo all the work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Furnace Yu. Proskurin with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can quite master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is able to perform all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a hot water tank.

Such a stove is able to heat one or two rooms with a total area of ​​​​17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it, of course, must be oriented in such a way that the structure is turned by the plate towards the kitchen room.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob in the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full heating is 1700 kcal / h.

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing material, reinforcing bar or steel wire 5 ÷ 6 mm thick. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, then you will have to purchase or manufacture it as well.

In order for the work to be successful, it is strongly recommended that you carefully study the order before starting it, and keep this scheme always at hand during the masonry process.

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels pass inside the structure, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. The row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ashpit (blowing chamber) and the bottom of the two channels are laid, which will run vertically. Laying out a row, leave openings for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. On the same row they are installed. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	In cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Further, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from the installation site until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber rise in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row, you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since further they will be laid out separately. The cross section of the channels along their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, in this row, the installed doors overlap. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The laying of the fifth row is made with refractory fireclay bricks, since the formation of the lower part of the furnace takes place. In the bricks that determine the place of laying the grate, from their inner edge, a cut is made at a right angle. The size of the cutout should be approximately 10×10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are laid over the blower chamber. For laying a row, 16 fireclay bricks are required.
	After that, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on clay mortar, but often without mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be on the order of 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, a furnace door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with a wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fasteners, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap, which will allow the metal to expand when it is strongly heated.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering scheme. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels form. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the rows is tied up.
	When laying the ninth row, the door of the combustion chamber is closed. To relieve the load from the cast-iron door, from the bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of stand for the middle brick, cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two extreme bricks. A row will require 12 fireclay bricks.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth running of hot air, a protruding corner is cut on the middle brick separating the furnace hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cut to the depth of the brick by 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed for laying the hob. For masonry, you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is laid with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (assuming the thickness of the hob is 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, a hob is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously opened vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. For laying this row, you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, on the clay-sand mortar, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed. A row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (brick size), and the third corner is pressed against the second with the back side. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it out, the cooking chamber is covered with 12 bricks, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which the valve will be installed. To mount this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is fixed to the prepared site on the clay solution.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is closed, and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is crimped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The laying is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth steam escape into the chimney. For laying, you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With the help of it, a chimney opening is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row, a metal plate is covered with brickwork. Further laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the openings of the channels remain open. Then, a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. 15 bricks are required for laying a row.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the scheme, masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, in order to direct the smoke in the right direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. For laying a row, 11 bricks are required.
	On the 27th row, with the help of masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The rear wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. The row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, laying is carried out according to a scheme similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed into the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the equipped "nest" on the clay solution. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the furnace. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31 ÷ 32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If the decision is made to

One of the problems that residents of their own homes face during the cold winter is the need to increase the efficiency of home stove heating in order to provide some fuel savings while creating comfortable living conditions. What is the reason for this problem?

It arises due to the peculiarities of the combustion of fuel in the furnace. In each stove, in addition to the firebox, there is always a blower through which air enters to maintain the combustion process. To accumulate the heat released during the combustion of fuel, the stove has a shield with smoke channels. The brickwork of the shield has a certain heat capacity, which cannot be increased even with the furnace constantly burning. At the same time, the heated room air begins to flow through the blower into the furnace and, ultimately, flies out into the chimney. It is replaced by colder air from the environment, which again needs to be heated by radiant and convective exchange from the stove shield. Thus, it becomes clear that in order to increase the efficiency of stove heating, it is necessary to organize a channel for the entry of cold air into the blower from an unheated room. This is a fairly fruitful idea and it should be implemented taking into account the design features of the furnace and the overall design of the house. One of the options, implemented with my own hands, is given below.

At that time, when choosing stove heating in my country house under construction, I settled on the option of a fireplace stove with a stove and an oven, which I liked for its versatility. Since my land plot was located on a drained swamp with a close groundwater level, I had to build a basement so that there was no dampness in the house. Therefore, a heated level and unheated rooms in the basement appeared in the house. Therefore, in order to implement the idea of ​​increasing the efficiency of the furnace, it is necessary to create an additional air channel for the blower from the basement

The creation of an additional air channel provides for the following work:

• formation of a side inlet channel in the blower of the furnace;
• formation of the entrance channel to the basement of the basement for the intake of cold air;
• assembly and fixing of the pipeline connecting two prepared channels.

The entrance channel to the blower was made in one of the bricks of the side wall using a perforator cutter. The result of the work is shown in Fig. 1 . View of the inlet channel in the blower. I created a channel to the basement by drilling 6 holes in the floor with a pen. The result of the work is shown in Fig. 2 View of the channel in the basement. Finally, having collected the necessary pipeline with a valve, he connected the two channels. The final view of the air intake channel is shown in Fig. 3 View of the formed channel.

Now, before kindling the furnace, it is necessary to open the valve of the additional air intake channel without opening the blower door and ignite the fuel. The view of the working furnace is shown in Fig. 4 View of a heating stove, and in Fig. 5 View of the air channel of a heating stove.

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Owners resort only in the most extreme cases, because the complex of works is very costly and complex. You can’t do without the help of specialists, and the risk of damage remains in any case. One wrong step, and the walls will be destroyed, the roof will be damaged, and the structure will have to be restored from scratch. Before starting work, you need to decide whether lifting is the only possible measure. It is worth analyzing all the factors, not saving on consumables and specialist services. Only in this case, you can count on a safe and high-quality procedure.

What is lifting the house when it is required

It is always necessary to raise the house when it is necessary to carry out work with the foundation. Most often, the cause is damage to the bearing capacity of the support, defects in the sole of the house, and the appearance of cracks. If you notice a design violation, you should immediately contact an engineer so that he can accurately determine the cause and give recommendations on how to eliminate it. So, sometimes only a cosmetic repair without lifting will be enough, unless, of course, the cause of your troubles has been eliminated.

Lifting is a complex and painstaking procedure, consisting of several stages. The specialist performs calculations, decides which tools it is advisable to use, whether the process will be safe for the structure. Until quite recently, little was known about the mass rise of houses, and the owners did not even suspect such an effective measure of repair. But years have passed, now many companies provide lifting services, and a country house of a small area can even be raised independently.

The price of special equipment for auxiliary work on the transfer of the house

House lifting procedure step by step

Proper observance of the lifting technology is a guarantee that there will be no problems, no cracks and damage will appear, and it will be possible to carry out repair work without difficulty. The height of the lift depends on your goals, whether it is further relocation, refurbishment or strengthening with a slight lift. Repairing the foundation under the house is still difficult - it requires a special tool, skill and skills. But the main task is to ensure the stability of the house so that it does not fall at the most crucial moment - when you dig a trench or pour concrete.

Analysis of factors and drawing up a plan

The procedure begins with a thorough analysis of the initial situation and the preparation of detailed instructions for action. If you contact the specialists, after the inspection, the engineer will draw up a project, the points of which will be agreed with you. It will contain the following information:

• What is the purpose of the lift?
• What parameters does the building have, including its condition and mass;
• Geological and natural features of the area;
• Possibility of departure of special equipment;
• Lifting plan with calculation of loads on support points;
• Necessary materials and preparatory actions;
• The cost of the work;
• The timing in which the company will carry out the rise;
• Possible risks when lifting a building;
• Guarantees from the contractor for quality and results.

Of course, you can raise the house on your own, but no one can guarantee anything. You will have to spend a lot of time on the implementation of the plan. Often, failure awaits inexperienced craftsmen: the house is damaged, the structure becomes unusable, and even more money has to be spent.

Preparation of tools and building

Before starting work, all the necessary tools, including powerful jacks, will be delivered to your site. It is necessary to make sure that the walls of the house can withstand such a support, if necessary, they will have to be strengthened (most often such a measure is required for old wooden houses). The support is installed from wood or concrete; at the place where the lifting mechanisms are installed, the soil must be solid, reinforced with crushed stone or other material.

Sometimes you need to take furniture out of the house to lighten its weight, reduce potential risks. Lifting a house with a stove is impossible - it will have to be dismantled, otherwise the floor will be broken, and the house will not give in. Other subtleties will be voiced by the engineer on site after inspecting the house, calculations and the necessary analysis.

house lifting process

When everything is ready for work, the most interesting part begins - the house is raised. This takes place in several stages, the principle of accuracy and gradualness is observed:

1. Points of reliable support are selected;
2. Jacks are installed on dense ground;
3. The house rises a couple of centimeters;
4. Temporary supports are laid
5. The procedure is repeated until the building is raised to the desired height.

If deflections, unpleasant cracking or heeling appear during the performance of work, the procedure is immediately terminated. The jack itself can also sink, which means that its carrying capacity is extremely low and not suitable for your case. It is necessary to constantly monitor the lifting, so that in the event of an error, it can be immediately identified. A competent engineer will not only immediately calculate defects and violations, but will also prevent their occurrence.

Applying to the company "Let's move the house": advantages and cost

Turning to our company "Let's Move the House", you will receive a guaranteed high-quality result and a lot of other privileges. We are the industry leader in the Moscow region and are distinguished by a number of advantages:

• We have over 12 years of experience;
• Managed to complete over 700 orders, and the number of satisfied customers is constantly growing;
• In our arsenal there is only modern technology and reliable tools;
• We offer not only the lifting of the house, but also a comprehensive repair, relocation, reconstruction;
• The staff employs qualified specialists with a decent education and excellent experience;
• We conclude an agreement with the client and always fulfill our obligations;
• We have pleasant promotions, so in winter you are guaranteed to receive a tempting discount;
• You save personal time, all work will be done within the agreed, reasonable time frame;
• The ascent is carried out in compliance with the technology, completely safe.

Entrust the lifting of your home to professionals, and you will not be disappointed. We know our work well, we use a variety of methods and always take into account your opinion. You will be pleased with the attractive cost, which you can find out after inspecting the object by an engineer. Just leave a request, and even the most complex problems will be solved as soon as possible.