How to care for oleander: safety rules and conditions for lush flowering. Oleander - diseases, causes of their occurrence, treatment, photo Why oleander leaves turn yellow and fall off

Oleander - beautiful evergreen from the Mediterranean coast. Belongs to the Kutra family of plants. It blooms with white, pink (fuchsia), and red inflorescences all summer and part of autumn.

Despite the fact that the plant is considered “evergreen” and adaptable to cultivation both at home and in the garden, it is also overtaken by diseases. For example, for some reason the leaves of an oleander turn yellow. In today's article we will try to figure out why this happens.

Why do oleander leaves turn yellow?

The delicate oleander plant is subject to fungal and viral diseases, as well as pest attacks. In order to protect your flower pet from negative influences, you need to decide why it occurs, and then how to cope and cure the flower.

Why do oleander leaves turn yellow?

• Leaf burn;
• Lighting violations;
• Improper watering;
• Inappropriate feeding;
• Incorrect pruning;

Let's start by looking at a common disease in oleander - leaf blight. It refers to bacterial diseases. It develops slowly, so the gardener may not give special attention first manifestations.

Symptoms of leaf burn in oleander:

• Yellowing of leaves;
• Browning of leaf edges;
• Falling leaves;
• Dying of branches;
• Termination of growth formation;

Oleander lighting

Oleander prefers bright and diffused lighting. It is necessary to gradually increase its volume, especially for young plants, starting from 45 minutes a day. Exceeding the permissible lighting time, as well as exposure to direct sunlight, hot and scorching sun will cause the leaves of the oleander to turn yellow.

Violation of oleander watering

If watered incorrectly, the leaves of the oleander quickly begin to turn yellow. Excessive and insufficient watering are detrimental to the plant.

• With excessive watering stagnation of water in the earthen coma prevents moderate absorption of moisture by the root system, as a result of which its transportation to the leaves is disrupted - they turn yellow.
• Insufficient watering the plant does not receive the required amount of moisture. Dehydration of the plant manifests itself evenly along the central branches, which is why a large number of leaves turn yellow and then fall off.

Feeding oleander

It is necessary to feed the oleander with mineral fertilizers in combination, however oversaturation with nitrogen ingredients leads to yellowing of leaves. in order to maintain the viability of the plant, nitrogen components should be added during the period of the beginning of budding, but in other periods it is preferable to use potassium-phosphorus components.

Oleander pruning

Gardeners know that the juice of oleander leaves is poisonous, so they try to carry out the pruning procedure as carefully as possible. However, the procedure can have bad consequences not only for the gardener, but also for the flower itself. It is necessary to work with oleander carefully - if, during the formation of the oleander, you damage the main trunks by removing more shoots than necessary, it is possible that the plant will begin to turn yellow intensely, enduring stress.

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Video: Why do oleander leaves turn yellow?

Video: Why doesn't oleander bloom?

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Oleander is a bush that branches heavily and blooms very beautifully. Oleander is considered an evergreen plant, but its leaves usually turn yellow and fall off in the fall, and this cannot be avoided. But besides this, the flower is renewed and always looks attractive. If the bush is not sick, it looks healthy and fresh. The advantage of oleander among other ornamental plants is that it is rarely exposed to the danger of diseases and pests and is easy to care for. To prevent damage to your shrub, you need to know the signs of diseases, methods of prevention and treatment of the plant. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the most popular and dangerous diseases and oleander pests.

Oleander pests

There are few pests of oleander, but you need to be wary of them all. These include spider mite, mealybugs and scale insects.

Spider mite

When a mealybug appears, you will notice a stretched web of dirty color on the internodes and a gradual drooping of the leaves. Even if you start watering the flower regularly and abundantly, its leaves will not become elastic again. The crown will develop very slowly, and white dots will appear on the back of the leaves, resembling scattered powder. If pest control is not started in time, these dots will eventually form a dull white spot, and later become a solid coating. When attacked by spider mites, the leaves dry out and fall off, regardless of the time of year. The petals also fade and lose their shape and color. Most often, spider mites appear in the warm season, when environmental moisture is minimal and temperatures are high. But winter is also considered a favorable period for the pest, when heating also dries the air and heats the room. If an oleander is affected by this pest, do not panic, but, first of all, provide it with proper care and maintenance, and begin an active fight against spider mites. At the first signs it is not so scary, because severe damage can be prevented by daily spraying and washing the affected areas with a soap-based solution. In case of severe damage or the ineffectiveness of the previous method, you need to treat the flower with a special preparation: “Actellik”, “Vertimer” or “Fitoverm”. In order to prevent damage by the same pest, you need to treat the plant two more times with an interval of a week between them.

Mealybug

The mealybug is a small insect, reaching only 6 mm in length. Its body is shaggy, has no definite shape, and is white. This pest is considered one of the most dangerous for oleander and the fight against it must begin immediately. During spring or autumn, mealybugs reproduce most intensively. The good thing is that it is not difficult to notice its presence and lesions, which makes it possible to begin treatment immediately. You will notice how fleas accumulate on the flower buds and young leaves, sticky and unpleasant to the touch. These flea beetles feed on the sap of the leaves, thereby damaging them. The buds do not open, begin to dry out, the leaves lose their shape, become small and dry out. Favorable conditions for mealybugs are an unventilated room, too damp and cool. In the process of reproduction, mini-pests become quite numerous, and to combat them you need to use complex treatment, which requires time and effort. We immediately warn you that it is not possible to get rid of mealybugs easily and quickly. First of all, you need to clean the damaged areas from plaque using a soap-based solution. But at the same time, pests can move into the soil, so it is still necessary to treat the soil with a mixture based on calendula or horsetail. The soil itself must be treated and the plant itself must be sprayed regularly until the flower has fully recovered. Treatments should be carried out weekly. One more effective way It is considered to transplant a damaged oleander to a new place, changing the soil, washing the roots, and sterilizing the container. Professionals also recommend watering the flower warm water using a sprayer, because The pest does not like elevated temperatures. You can also fight mealybugs with chemicals that contain special preparations, for example, “Aktara”, “Calypso”, “Confidant”, “Fitoferm” or “Aktellik”. One of them needs to treat the soil and the crown of the plant.

If your plant is damaged by scale, you will notice small bumps at the base of the trunk close to the soil that look like apple scab. You can remove these formations yourself by tearing them off and crushing them. This place will become wet, and then a colorless spot will form. This pest intensively lays eggs and moves with its trunk towards the leaves and shoots. The pest is able to hide from you and change color like a lizard (green, brown, brown). When an oleander is infected with scale insects, it becomes unattractive and loses its leaves, which first curl into a tube. This pest is transferred from another soil or plant. The most effective way to get rid of scale insects is with your hands, because... its strong shell does not allow drugs to pass through. But damaged areas can be wiped with a cloth or washcloth moistened with a solution based on soap or alcohol. For effectiveness, use one of the drugs: “Aktelikt”, “Aktar”. They need to cultivate the soil. In case of severe and widespread damage, regularly remove and destroy damaged shoots. You can also root cuttings to grow a new healthy oleander.

Oleander diseases

There are many diseases of oleander, some of them are fungal and viral. The most popular and dangerous are rust, cancer and root rot.

Rust

When oleander becomes infected with fungal rust, you will notice how round, yellow spots gradually begin to appear on the leaves. The yellow color turns into rusty over time. First of all, remove the diseased oleander from healthy plants, because the fungus may spread. Treat the flower with fungicides until the signs of rust disappear.

Oleander crayfish

Oleander cancer is a very dangerous viral disease, which is almost impossible to get rid of. When it appears on the stem and shoots, you will notice convex formations, and the leaves and flowers will darken over time and become Brown, which is not inherent in a healthy oleander. A person who deals with flowers unprofessionally will most likely not immediately notice the signs of cancer, because... pigments that appear as small specks of light color are not very noticeable and seem harmless. But, after time, these spots become larger, but still do not cause fear, because one might think that they appeared due to poor lighting and insufficient feeding. You will probably recognize oleander cancer when thickenings and dark growths appear on the shoots. During the disease process, the shoots will break, and the leaves will dry out and fall off prematurely. The worst thing is that it is impossible to cure oleander from cancer, so the plant will have to be destroyed. But to avoid disease, it is enough to take care of the plant and fight pests in a timely manner.

Root rot

Root rot affects oleander if the soil is regularly waterlogged. For prevention purposes, you need to periodically leave the soil a little dry, and under no circumstances fill it with water. If the plant gets sick with root rot, you need to move it to another container with new soil, making sure to remove all roots damaged by rot before doing so.

Evergreen shrubs with leathery lanceolate leaves arranged in groups of 3-4 or opposite. Flowers at the top of the shoots in semi-umbrellas, pink, red, yellow and white. Distributed in subtropical regions of the Mediterranean to East Asia. There are 3 species in the genus. Valuable ornamental plants. The sap released by plants in pruning or cutting cuttings is poisonous.

General information about oleander

oleander (nerium), family Kutrov.
Place of origin: Homeland South of Europe, Africa, Asia, Japan.
Usage: beautifully flowering.
Plant dimensions: up to 6 m in height.
Height: fast.
Flowering: June-October.

Varieties of oleander

Three types of oleander grow in nature; only the common oleander species, Nerium oleander, is common in cultivation - evergreen shrub, growing up to 2 meters tall, with branching stems. The leaves are bare, leathery, narrow and long - 10-15 cm long and about 3 cm wide. The leaves are dark green, with a light midrib, and sit on short petioles. The inflorescence raceme is formed at the end of annual shoots. The flowers are white, red, pink, yellow or lilac, and can be single or double. You should know that all parts of the oleander, including the flowers, are poisonous. Oleander is an excellent greenhouse plant, but room conditions it is a rather capricious plant, as it needs a cool winter and requires quite a lot of light. Blooms all summer.

Oleander care and maintenance

Temperature in summer 16 – 23
Temperature in winter 7 – 16

Lightingoleander: Oleander is light-loving. Choose a sunny place for it; shading is not required.

Wateringoleander: Abundant in summer, moderate in winter, but taking into account the temperature in the room, for example, when keeping oleander in a room with a temperature in the range of 8-10 ° C in winter, water the plant very rarely, only preventing the earthen coma from completely drying out. If the plant is left to overwinter in a warm room, then water it moderately, just like other indoor plants in winter. Oleander is picky about water hardness, so water it with settled, soft water.

Reproductionoleander: Stem cuttings in spring or summer, which are rooted in damp sand or water. As well as seeds and layerings.

Air humidity: Oleander is regularly sprayed, especially when kept indoors near central heating in winter.

Transferoleander: Young oleanders are replanted annually, old tub plants after 2-3 years. Soil - 4 parts heavy turf and 2 parts leaf soil, 2 parts rotted manure or greenhouse soil with the addition of 1 part sand. It is better to make drainage in a pot or tub. During transplantation, you can partially trim the roots of large tub plants.

Top dressingoleander: During the growth period from April to August, every two weeks the oleander is fed with special complex fertilizers for indoor plants. You can use “Rainbow”, “Ideal”, “Giant”, etc. Oleander also responds well to organic fertilizers, for example, mullein solution.

Trimmingoleander: in spring or after flowering, cut back half or 2/3 of strong shoots and remove weak shoots. Weakly branching plants can be pruned to a height of 25 cm.

Pests and diseases of oleander

The appearance of pests on oleander is primarily promoted by dry and warm air in winter, as well as keeping it in a shaded and poorly ventilated area.

Scale insects: brown plaques on the surface of leaves and stems, suck out cell sap. The leaves lose color, turn pale, dry out and fall off.
Control measures. For mechanical cleaning pests, wipe the leaves with a soapy sponge. Then spray the plant with 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).

Spider mite: Cobwebs appear in the internodes on the stems, whitish grains can be seen on the back of the leaves - mite excrement, oleander leaves become lethargic and fall off.
Control measures. Wipe the plant with a soapy sponge and wash it under a hot (up to 50°C) shower. Spray regularly. In case of very severe damage, spray with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).

Mealybugs: They affect leaves, shoots, and, if present, flowers. You can see small whitish cotton balls on the plant - the secretions of mealybugs. The leaves become bent, dry out and fall off, and the plant dies.
Control measures. Wipe the plant with a soapy sponge and wash under a warm shower. Spray regularly. In case of very severe damage, the plant can be sprayed with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).

Features of oleander care

In summer you can take it out into the fresh air.

Keeping oleander does not require special conditions or special care operations. In the warm season, the plant needs daily abundant watering. Spraying should be carried out at least once a day, on hot days - twice (morning and evening). It is enough to apply mineral and organic fertilizers once a month. To improve flowering, overgrown shoots of the plant must be pruned regularly. Best time for this - late autumn or early spring. In this case, old, weak, dry branches should be removed. In winter, oleander cannot be kept warm; it is best to take it to a bright, cool room and reduce watering. Young plants need annual replanting; more mature ones need to be replanted once every two to three years. To plant oleander, you need to prepare a soil mixture of four parts turf, two parts leaf soil, two parts humus soil and one part sand. It is best to use split clay shards as a drainage layer.

Pests and diseases of oleander

Mealybug
Spider mite
Scale insects and false scale insects

Many people associate the beauty of oleander with the charm of blooming Mediterranean gardens. There this plant decorates narrow streets, balconies and front gardens. Therefore, many people dream of growing this exotic representative of the flora. However, for proper maintenance, you need to know certain subtleties and nuances so that the oleander grows comfortably at home and does not cause trouble to the owner.

Let's get to know the plant better

Oleander - beautiful flowering shrub, easy to care for

Oleander is a large evergreen shrub with a dense, lush crown, belonging to the Kutrov family. The foliage has a special narrow shape with leathery veins, and the stems are covered with rounded lentils. Experts identify only one form of oleander. But, despite this, the plant can have different inflorescences, differing in the degree of terry, color, as well as the intensity of the aroma emitted. In its natural environment, the shrub grows near water, forming dense fragrant thickets. Most suitable climate– Mediterranean (countries of North Africa, Southern Europe, Japan, etc.).

The height of the oleander can be from 1.5 to 3 m, while the stems branch well. The plant produces large five-petaled inflorescences collected in small brushes. Flowering time is from June to September.

Conditions for growing oleander

Growing oleander at home requires warmth, intense light and plenty of watering.

This beautiful exotic shrub can be grown on your own personal plot. The process will not require much effort from you, since oleander is extremely unpretentious. But it is worth considering that he will delight abundant flowering and a wonderful aroma if you know exactly how to care for the plant throughout the year. So, what you should pay close attention to:

Oleander should be planted in fertile soil. The optimal soil mixture is with a pH level of 5.5-7.8. The composition must include the following components:

• turf land – 40%;
• leaf humus or peat – 40%;
• perlite or coarse sand – 20%.

The shrub grows no less well in garden soil from the site, the main thing is that the soil is neutral and slightly acidic.

1. Lighting is an important factor affecting the growth rate of oleander. Especially if you plan to cultivate it indoors. This is a very light-loving crop that should be under bright sun rays all year round. Otherwise, the oleander leaves will fade, the shoots will stretch, and the buds will not open.
2. Temperature environment should not fall below 2°C. IN summer time the maximum permissible value is 28°C. Therefore, it is not advisable to leave the oleander on a south-facing window, as it may overheat. It’s better to find a place for it on the balcony or move it to the east side. Despite the fact that this crop is heat-loving, it can withstand light frosts. So you can keep the oleander cool winter garden at a temperature of 2-15°C, but be sure to take care of access to sunlight.
3. Air humidity also affects oleander. In summer, this criterion is not so critical, so the plant can be sprayed with a spray bottle once every 1-2 days. But in winter, in a heated apartment and dry air, the bush will “feel” bad. Spray regularly with water at room temperature.
4. Watering the oleander will depend on the growing conditions, in particular on the ambient temperature. If the shrub is on the sunny side, then carry out the procedure with such frequency that there is always water left in the tray of the pot. Overdrying the plant is extremely undesirable. Otherwise, it is enough to water the oleander 2-3 times a week.
5. Feeding. In order for the oleander to delight its owners with abundant flowering, it is necessary to apply fertilizer weekly. From the very beginning, you can feed it with mullein infusion so that the bush grows intensively. In the future, complex formulations for flowering plants will be suitable.

When and how to prune correctly

Proper pruning of oleander has a positive effect on the flowering of the shrub

Oleander is a densely growing shrub, so it needs regular pruning. This is especially necessary for young plants, which after the procedure branch beautifully and bloom profusely. In addition, pruning allows you to form beautiful crown, adjusting the size of the bush.

The procedure is carried out immediately after the oleander blooms. It is not recommended to prune in spring, since the buds have been laid since last year. In addition, in the summer the branches grow greatly. Therefore, you need to act in August-September. As a rule, branches are shortened by ½ the length, sometimes even more.

Since the plant is poisonous, pruning is best done while wearing protective gloves.

Features of flowering

Blooming oleander - amazing beautiful plant, decorating the house

Oleander is famous for its beauty. The plant produces clusters of large flowers at the end of the branches, which can be double, semi-double or non-double. The colors can be very different - peach, pink, white or red. Flowering begins in March or May and ends in late autumn.

During this period, the oleander needs to be provided with good lighting, intensive watering and additional fertilizing with fertilizers for house plants (complex formulations).

Please note that during flowering the oleander cannot be cut or replanted. It is better to postpone all these manipulations until the fall.

During the formation of flower buds, it is necessary to remove young shoots of oleander at the very base of the racemes. Ignoring or incorrectly performing this procedure is the most common reason why a shrub does not bloom. Factors such as:

• lack of feeding;
• irregular watering (drying of the earthen coma);
• overheating of the plant in winter;
• insufficient lighting.

How to replant correctly

Transplantation is necessary for intensive growth of oleander

It is advisable to replant small shrubs in March-April. For this purpose, a soil mixture of peat, leaf soil, turf, humus and river sand is used. A layer of expanded clay (2-3 cm thick) must be poured onto the bottom of the pot to ensure good drainage. After transplanting, place the shrub in a shady place for 1-2 days. And give abundant watering and spraying the foliage 2 times a day. When the weather is consistently warm, without frost, the oleander can be taken outside.

When replanting, the old roots must be shortened and the earthen ball reduced so that the plant blooms profusely.

Older plants that are already in large pots or containers do not need to be replanted annually. But instead, you need to add fresh compost to the soil.

Oleander propagation

The flower is propagated by planting cuttings 8-15 cm long, previously cut from strong shoots of the bush. Planting material is harvested in the summer. The process has the following features:

Propagation of oleander from seeds is practiced very rarely. This process has low efficiency. This is due to the fact that the seeds do not remain similar for long, so it is easier to use cuttings.

Reproduction can also be carried out air layering, which are rooted in wet sand or a glass tube with water. The process has the following features:

1. The lower end of the container is closed with a stopper of two halves, between which an oleander branch is clamped.
2. To prevent water from flowing through the cork, it is lubricated with wax.
3. To form roots, two circular cuts are made on the branch, removing a ring of bark 2-3 mm wide.
4. As soon as the first roots appear, cuttings should be cut off from the mother plant and transplanted into a separate pot for rooting.

Diseases and pests

Despite its toxicity, oleander can be affected by spider mites, fungal diseases, mealybugs, scale insects and oleander cancer. Almost all of the problems listed can be eliminated, except for the last disease. Let's take a closer look at the symptoms of oleander damage and methods of treating it.

Mealybug

Mealybug is the most common pest of oleander

The main danger comes from mealyworms - soft-bodied insects without wings that leave a waxy powdery coating. Outwardly, they look like pieces of cotton. Most often localized on the leaves and branches of oleander. But young individuals can move throughout the bush in search of a permanent feeding site. In some cases, mealyworms form entire colonies.

How to fight: for mild damage, it is enough to wipe the foliage with a cotton pad soaked in soapy water until complete cleansing from scale insects. Finally, treat these areas with calendula tincture. In more complex cases you will have to use chemical compositions, such as Biotlin, Vertimek, Calypso, Confidant.

To avoid mealybugs, keep their natural enemies, ladybugs, in your garden.

Spider mite

You can find out about the presence of spider mites by the characteristic white specks under the foliage.

Symptoms of the appearance of this pest are as follows: a cobweb forms in the internodes on the stems, and on the back side of the oleander leaves you can see white grains - traces of mites. At the same time, the plant slows down its growth. Also, the leaves become limp and fall off.

How to fight: the affected areas are wiped with a soapy sponge, after which the bush should be washed under a hot shower (50°C). In advanced cases, the oleander must be sprayed with a 0.15% Actellik solution.

Shields

Scale insects are very dangerous pests of oleander

Symptoms of oleander damage by these pests are as follows: the formation of brown plaques on the surface of the foliage and stems. As a result of the sucking of cell sap by scale insects, the plant weakens. Also, the leaves begin to fade, after which they dry out and fall off.

How to fight: the affected leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge, after which the oleander is sprayed with a 0.15% actellik solution.

Oleander crayfish

Oleander cancer is incurable, the plant will have to be disposed of

This disease is bacterial in nature. The infection is transmitted through sucking pests. From the moment the oleander is infected, the bacterium paralyzes the sap-conducting cells of the plant, after which it dies. Symptoms of the lesion are similar to the drying out of the bush due to moisture deficiency: yellowness on the leaves, the appearance of a brown color, falling off.

How to fight: an infected plant cannot be treated. It must be isolated from other bushes and disposed of.

As you can see, growing heat-loving oleander at home is not so difficult. You need to remember a few rules for caring for the plant so that it pleases you with wonderful flowering and rapid growth.

Oleander represents ornamental plant. This evergreen shrub has been known since ancient times. It was his images that were found by archaeologists on the frescoes of the notorious city of Pompeii. It was he who enjoyed great popularity in Ancient Rome and Greece. The plant itself has its homeland - the Mediterranean. It is distinguished by dark green leaf blades. They are lanceolate and leathery. The length of the plates can reach 20 cm. Their appearance is comparable to the leaf blades of willow or willow. The leaves are united into groups, located on the stem in the amount of three pieces. There are 6-8 flowers in one inflorescence. They are distinguished by an aesthetically pleasing white, lilac, pink or red tint. Caring for oleander should be especially careful during the growing season - from June to September. However, it is necessary to monitor the flower in other months, as this prepares opportunities for further intensive growth.

There are many varieties of flowers that differ from each other in their characteristics. appearance. They can have varying degrees of terry from its complete absence to terry-type varieties. The flower plates are distinguished by white, yellow and pink shades. There are varieties available with and without aroma. The leaf blade can be pale green, yellowish and green. Keeping a plant at home poses some dangers. The fact is that all its parts are considered poisonous. The effects of poison can become especially dangerous during the pruning procedure. Caring for the plant is determined by its natural habitat. This is a Mediterranean climate. This refers to the territories from Southern Europe to Japan. Oleander grows on sea coasts. It can also develop in dry valleys.

Basic care rules

When starting this shrub, it is worth considering that it grows quite intensively. If growing conditions are ideal, its growth can reach 1.8 meters. It grows quite rapidly, which necessitates its pruning. This procedure is necessary so that the plant pleases the eye with its neat shape. But this is only part of the measures that need to be taken when maintaining oleander. Let's consider the basic rules for caring for it:

• Location. It is necessary to place the plant in a place that has good lighting, as well as acceptable temperature conditions. The shrub grows best in warm conditions. A place with bright sunshine will be optimal. Therefore, you can prepare a balcony or loggia for the oleander on the south side. What happens if you put a plant in a place with poor lighting? When a small amount of light enters, the leaf plates begin to fade and the shoots begin to stretch. Another by-effect– lack of opening of buds. In summer, it is recommended to move the shrub onto the balcony. IN winter time a dormant period begins, during which it is recommended to place the plant in a bright room with a low temperature;
• Temperature conditions. In winter, it is necessary to provide the plant with a temperature regime of 6-8 degrees. It is recommended to place it in cold greenhouses. Good lighting is provided. The growing season begins in mid-March, during which a temperature regime of 10-12 degrees is required. Go to new mode should be gradual, since sudden changes are fraught with developmental disorders;
• Substrate. It is not necessary to prepare the soil mixture yourself. You can also purchase ready-made substrate. What soil is best for oleander? Substrates “Rose” and “Cactus+” are suitable. You can prepare the substrate yourself. To do this, you will need turf, leaf, humus soil in proportions 4:2:2. Sand is added to the resulting mixture in the volume of one part;
• Transshipment. Can be done every year in the spring if it is a young shrub. If he is an adult, the procedure can be performed once every 2-3 years. When transshipping, you will need a fairly large pot. A drainage layer is first poured into it. It may include gravel, expanded clay, and small pebbles. Drainage is necessary because stagnation of moisture is contraindicated for the plant. After organization drainage system, you can start working with the substrate. The main part of it is poured into a pot, after which the plant is planted. After the procedure, a little more soil is added, which is pressed against the root system. Intensive watering completes the procedure;
• How to water a bush? Air humidity is not so important for the plant. But you should not allow extremes - excessive dryness or humidity. How to water? It must be regular. You need to be especially careful about the level of humidity in spring or summer. The soil should always be moist (meaning its top layer of 1-1.5 cm). In winter, a dormant period begins, during which watering must be reduced to the bare minimum. However, the soil should not dry out completely. In hot weather, it is especially important to control humidity levels. To prevent the soil from drying out, you can use a tray with water. You also need to add gravel to it. The tray is placed under the plant. Soft water is used for irrigation. To give softness, it can be defended;
• Feeding. The procedure should be carried out during the growing season, when the plant is actively developing. In spring and summer, it is recommended to fertilize once every 1.5-2 weeks. For this purpose, liquid fertilizer based on minerals is used. You can prepare the composition yourself. This will require 1.5 grams of superphosphate, potassium, 2 grams of nitrate. The composition must be diluted in a liter of water. Nitrate can be replaced with urea in a similar amount;
• Trimming. This procedure is carried out to form an elegant shape and stimulate intensive shoot growth. Pruning also ensures full flowering. When is the procedure performed? It is recommended to plan it after flowering. The branches can only be cut in half. This allows you to prepare the ground for intensive flowering of the shoots next year. To prevent exposure, weak shoots are pruned at the bottom. They will not bring flowering, and therefore only take away the plant’s strength. It is better to make room for new growth. If the bush is very bare, you can remove all the shoots. This is necessary so that the oleander does not waste resources on them and activates the forces for a new flowering. However, it will take at least two years to wait for flowering.

Oleander cannot be called very whimsical. It will bloom actively provided you follow basic care recommendations.

Diseases and pests

Let's look at the pests that are attracted to this bush, as well as ways to combat them:

• Red spider mite. Located on the lower surface of the sheet plate. For treatment, it is necessary to remove the affected leaf plates and then treat the bush with Actellik. Per liter of water you will need 15-20 drops of the drug;
• Shield. Symptoms of its appearance are leaves turning yellow, becoming sticky and spotty. Scale insects should be removed using cotton wool soaked in kerosene or alcohol. If there are a lot of pests, you can treat them with actellik or decis;
• Mealybugs. They spread along the leaf blade and stems. Symptoms of the appearance are honeydew, yellowing and falling of leaf blades. To control pests, it is recommended to collect them manually. This mechanical treatment can also be carried out using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or kerosene. If there are a lot of scale insects, you can treat them with karbofos. Per liter of water you will need 20-40 drops of the drug. If honeydew has formed, you can get rid of it with a soap solution.

Oleander diseases do not often bother gardeners, but it can happen. Let's look at the most common problems:

• The leaves are falling. This problem is often observed when there is a lack of sunlight. It is recommended to use additional lighting. Sometimes they may fall off due to high temperatures in winter. The temperature at this time cannot exceed 15 degrees;
• The leaf blades are covered with small spots. Caused by thrips. They often appear with intensive watering and improper temperature conditions. You can fight them with the help of Aktara. For 5 liters of water you need 4 grams of the drug. The treatment procedure is planned every four days. The total number of treatments is four.

Most diseases are caused improper care. Therefore, it is so important to maintain the bush as specified in the rules.