How to care for a garden at your dacha. Tips for the garden: care and planting of various crops

As we all know, there are seasonal works in the garden, these are spring planting, summer care and autumn preparation for winter.

All these three seasons, certain work and actions must be performed so that the garden produces a good harvest of the planned crops and at the same time looks beautiful.

But gardeners have a problem that occurs quite often. And it consists in the following. In winter, we all make plans, buy seeds and can’t wait for spring to start making our dreams come true. We see rainbow pictures with already grown crops, beautiful flower beds, and a fruit-bearing garden. Then spring comes, and with great enthusiasm we begin the first plantings, but after a short time we realize that not everything is so simple and we still have to wait and wait for the harvest. At this moment, many gardeners lose all their passion and begin to, as they say, rush about. They arrive or go out to the garden and begin to mindlessly either grab at everything at once, or jump from one job to another, or simply give up and wait for it to grow on its own.

And no matter what happens, you need to clearly know what to do on one day or another. To do this, everything must be planned out.

How to make plans for caring for your garden. It is best to keep a record of all the work that needs to be done, and that has already been completed, indicating the date and if the volume of work performed is required.

Now let’s list the work that I consider to be caring for the garden during the period of plant growth after sowing or planting.

Weeding– one of the most monotonous and least favorite jobs. Performed two to five times per season. To reduce the frequency and volume of weeding, use mulching, fenced beds, and drip irrigation. It is advisable to carry out and plan accordingly after rains or waterings.

– in order to accurately plan watering times, you need to record previous waterings and take into account rainfall. Knowing this, you won’t have to argue whether you need to water or not, you will know exactly when you need to water this or that crop, this will allow you to avoid unnecessary watering or, conversely, long breaks. To lighten and reduce it, use mulching and, if possible, drip irrigation.

– it’s easier with all of them, you need to draw up a schedule for all crops and just follow it. This is the most correct way to use fertilizers. There is no need to feed your plants whenever you feel like it or when you think they are missing something.

Thinning– thinning is required for small-seeded crops, such as carrots, beets, radishes, etc. Thinning is done during the formation of one or two true leaves on the plant and preferably after watering or rain.

Formation– formation is required by such crops as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkins. Moreover, not all varieties of these crops require formation. It is planned depending on the crop and variety.

Of course, there are other jobs in the garden, such as mowing the grass in the free areas of the plot and arranging the beds.
The most pleasant thing is, of course, harvesting, especially when it is successful. The harvest can be collected once, or as needed. Young or first fruits can be collected as needed. They are harvested once when the crop is ripe; over-ripening should not be allowed, this always leads to a deterioration in the quality of the fruit and their poor storage.

To make the necessary adjustments to your plans, always take a walk around your garden before you begin work. Do only the work that you have planned, try to distribute it evenly across days of the week or weekends.

My golden rule is that 10-20% of the time is allocated to labor-intensive work, another 20% to easy work, and the rest of the time to rest. If you do not fit into these limits, then it is better to reduce the garden, otherwise it can turn from a pleasant and useful activity into a harmful labor duty.

Gardening activities have their own specific laws, the incorrect use or ignorance of which will lead to wasted effort and resources. All agricultural laws are aimed at increasing the yield.

Law of the minimum...

Thus, the yield of any crop depends on a minimum of nutrients. For example: plants may stop growing and stop bearing fruit if they lack iron or any other element. You won’t be able to get a raise if you don’t make up for it in soil scarce element. This phenomenon is called the “law of the minimum.”

...and maximum

There is also the law of maximum. According to him, it is impossible to increase plant nutrition uncontrollably. Eat maximum value, after which an additional contribution fertilizers(or water, light, heat...) will become an inhibitory factor that reduces the yield.

Ignorance of this law allows some to claim that “mineral fertilizers are harmful to plants and humans.” In fact, you just need to know when to stop.

Law of Optimum

In accordance with the law of optimum, the highest yield can be obtained with optimal values ​​(quantities) of each factor. Each of the values ​​to obtain the highest yield can only grow to its optimal limit in combination with those of all other factors.

Therefore, in the beginning, as soon as we begin to feed the plants with microelements, everything begins to grow rapidly and bear fruit. But after the third or fifth feeding oppression is noticed. That is, the optimum has been overcome and it’s time to stop.

Law of connection between factors

This applies not only to fertilizing. So, if the plants are on dense soils and they lack potassium, loosening will give a significant increase in yield. If you add potassium instead of loosening, the yield will also double. But if you do both, the harvest will not triple, but will be only slightly higher than with one loosening.

That is, each event has not only positive, but also negative sides. In general, experts believe that plants begin to lose their potential yield from the moment they begin to germinate. And the task of gardeners is to ensure that losses are as small as possible.

The main rules of fertility:

The creation of optimal conditions for plants should take place simultaneously (in parallel) for above-ground and underground parts;

Fertilizers are intended for plants - they feed the plants, not the soil;

The highest efficiency of fertilizers can be achieved only with the combined use of mineral and organic fertilizers;

Each variety has its own characteristics and requirements - the so-called varietal agricultural technology, which allows you to achieve the best yields;

The main reason for crop failure is delay in sowing or planting;

When applying mineral fertilizers, take into account the shift in acidity in the soil.

So, on acidic soils it is better to use alkalizing fertilizers, and on carbonate soils - acidifying ones.

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Having Vacation home, with a garden plot or a dacha with, it is a sin not to use the land and not plant greens, vegetables, fruits, berries.

In order for your work to yield a positive result, such as a wonderful harvest, you need to become familiar with the intricacies of the work.

Planting and caring for crops in the garden and vegetable garden require compliance with special rules.

The very first work that needs to be done in the garden is preparing the soil. The quality and size of the harvest directly depends on the quality of the soil.

It is enough to limit yourself to a few rows of tomatoes, carrots, beets, cucumbers and greens - parsley, sorrel, lettuce. It’s okay if there are few crops in the first planting year. But this will give a wonderful experience to a novice gardener.

Top 10 crops for a beginner

• – one of the easiest garden crops for a beginner. Does not require special care or daily watering. It is best to plant it a few weeks before frost, so that it has time to develop strong roots. Before planting, the cloves are soaked in potassium permanganate for disinfection for a couple of hours. The teeth are planted at a distance of 20 centimeters from each other. The harvest is traditionally harvested on July 12, on the feast of Peter and Paul.
• Zucchini or - vegetables are not picky and do not require special attention. A beginner does not have to waste effort on growing seedlings, but buys them ready-made. For such crops, you do not need to prepare a specially decorated bed, but they can be planted around the perimeter of the garden.
• . When planting greens, it is important to choose a slightly shady area so that under the influence sun rays the feathers did not turn yellow. With moderate but constant watering, the gardener will receive beautiful juicy feathers that will decorate any dish.
• . To sow carrots, the soil is dug up, fertilized and moistened. The carrots are sown, the seeds are covered with soil and lightly trampled down. Within a month it can be broken through so that the soil does not become clogged. The roots should be at a distance of 5-7 centimeters.
• Lettuce prefers shady areas, as severe drought causes the leaves to become rough and bitter. And so, this plant is not capricious and grows well in any climate.
• Peas are the simplest type of bean. Low-growing varieties produce crops early, and tall, woven varieties can be planted on the side of the bed to create shade with their vines.
• can be sown earlier than all other crops. It is enough to water it several times a week, subject to drought. After sunrise, you need to break through the rows, removing weak sprouts. After 3-4 weeks you can enjoy the harvest.
• . To plant this root crop, you need to choose a variety. Akela, Bordeaux and Oasis are early varieties that are considered the easiest to care for in the country. Beets can be planted when the soil temperature is above +7 degrees, and there is no frost outside even at night. For a beet bed, you can set aside a separate place in the garden or divide rows of beets into beds with other vegetables.
• Spinach requires fertilized soil. It can be planted a month after the last frost. Chill temperature regime– this is the key to soft and juicy leaves. If the bushes grow slowly, you can fertilize them with nitrogen, but ideally spinach does not need feeding. 35-40 days after planting, you can enjoy the harvest.
• . A beginner is offered to purchase ready-made seedlings, which must be transplanted into prepared soil in the garden bed. The interval between bushes will depend on the tomato variety. It’s best to check with the seller. Tomatoes love generous watering, but not frequent. 3 times a week will be enough. It is important to monitor the bushes, hill them up and tie them up so that the sprouts do not break under their own weight.

I would like to note that a beginner can start with absolutely any crops if he theoretically knows how to care for them. The main thing is to observe the neighborhood and watering regime.

Necessary equipment

No gardening or gardening work can be completed without special equipment and tools. It can be divided into several classifications:

• by purpose: gardening, gardening, watering equipment, for cultivating land
• by size – small (hoe, hacksaw, pruning shears) and large (shovels, scythe, pitchforks) equipment
• by use - manual and automatic equipment

You can never have too many gardening tools, and each one has a use. But for a beginning gardener, it is enough to collect the bare minimum number of tools.

For gardening

Caring for bushes and trees is just as necessary as caring for plants in the garden; this requires special tools:

To care for the soil, the most necessary equipment is rakes and glanders, without which it is impossible to dig, fluff up and ruffle the soil. They should be on every garden plot, regardless of its size. Even if the main work is carried out using machinery or walk-behind tractors, you still cannot do without basic manual equipment.

Territory care

In addition to a beautiful garden and a well-kept vegetable garden, the entire area needs care and cleaning.

Residents of private houses know very well that fallen leaves and soot constantly accumulate in the yard if you have a stove at home.

There is also a constant sprouting of unwanted grass that needs to be dealt with to keep your yard looking its best.

To do this, you can use a lawn mower or a hand scythe.

Of course, with an electric or gasoline one it will be much easier to care for the territory, but if it is not possible to purchase one right away, a regular scythe will do.

In addition, the gardener’s arsenal needs:

• A hand saw or circular (gasoline) saw must be in the arsenal of every gardener. It is necessary for removing broken, damaged or dry branches.
• An ax is also one of the important tools in the household.
• A wheelbarrow or cart is useful on the farm for removing garbage and fertilizing the garden.

To ensure that all tools and equipment are in good condition, they need to be looked after. It would be better to allocate a small pantry or shed for storing them. It is important that this room is not damp, as the metal may become corroded or the mechanism of electrical appliances may deteriorate.

Monthly work in the garden and vegetable garden

Many people have developed a stereotype that summer is the season for gardening and gardening. But a true summer resident knows that in order for the soil to be beautiful, it needs to be looked after all year round, regardless of the weather or time of year:

With novice gardeners and gardeners, amateurs and experts share tips that they formed based on their personal experience:

• Onions and carrots can be planted side by side; they are ideal neighbors. You can add a little sand to the soil for these crops to speed up growth.
• There is no need to form too large beds. Let them be compact, but well-groomed.
• For beauty, the beds can be divided with colored strips.
• Carrying out crop rotation means that it is necessary to change places in the garden for crops. For example, in the place where there were onions this year, plant tomatoes next year.
• With the aim of rational use Soil in one bed can produce two harvests in one year. Eg, early variety potatoes that are harvested in July can be replaced by a late radish variety.
• To have a lot of insects in the garden, you can plant coriander or clover.
• When watering, you should focus on the depth of soil wetting from 20 to 40 cm.
• To keep strawberries clean after watering or rain, the soil can be sprinkled with straw.
• Watering is best done in the afternoon, towards evening.

To summarize, we can say that working in the garden requires responsibility and attention. If you treat each crop with love, nature will reward you with a generous harvest. If you are a beginner, don’t be afraid, there is nothing complicated in gardening, you just need to follow the rules of watering, planting, fertilizing and hilling the soil.

The health of a garden is the health of the people who care for it and eat its fruits. Unfortunately, inept, inexperienced gardeners very often abuse pesticides, trying to destroy everyone harmful insects, through thick and thin. But the harm, it turns out, comes from something else. Poisons used in excess are deposited in the plant, fruits and can enter food with them. But in an amateur garden, how can we destroy the larvae of honeysuckers, mites, and aphids, which at the beginning of summer inhabit many, especially weakened, gardens? How to fight silkworm caterpillars, apple moths and others that sometimes cause enormous damage to the garden? For this, there are many proven techniques and substances that, when used correctly, are harmless to humans and animals. For example, if you put 200 - 300 grams of garlic through a meat grinder, add ten liters of water, strain and spray the plants with this infusion, then sucking insects (aphids, copperheads) will disappear.

Effective against sucking pests and: 150 - 200 grams are kept in 10 liters of water for 4-5 days, filtered and sprayed on plants. If there are no husks, use an infusion of dandelion leaves: 400 grams or 200 grams of plants along with rhizomes are poured into 10 liters warm water, insist for 2 hours.

An insecticidal infusion is also prepared from green potato tops: 1.2 kilograms of it should be filled with 10 liters of water, left for 3-4 hours and sprayed on plants affected by aphids and mites.

If you have tobacco, shag, tobacco dust, then 400 grams of them should be filled with 10 liters hot water, leave for 2 days, add 40 grams of laundry or green soap. The infusion is effective against sucking pests and small caterpillars. The tops of young shoots of currants and gooseberries, affected by powdery mildew, which forms a dense white, even felt-like, sometimes brown coating with dark dots interspersed with it, are best cut off to a healthy bud and burned. On raspberries, shoots damaged by stem gall midges are cut down to the base.

Carefully remove old leaves and peduncles with rotten dried berries, since it is in them that spores of gray rot, white and brown spots are preserved, and often loosen the soil in rows and between rows. It is better to compost the leaves rather than burn them. Do not “overfeed” strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers - their excess subsequently leads to rapid growth of leaves, thickening of the bushes, deterioration in the taste of the berries, severe damage to them by gray rot and slugs, and, ultimately, to a sharp decrease in yield. Meanwhile, many gardeners abuse nitrogen fertilizers for this crop. In its diet, it is necessary to strictly maintain a balance between nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Then the harvest will be high, and the berries will be tasty, fragrant, and sweet.

Imagine that your favorite animals, which you raised and tinkered with every night, suddenly got sick and died. What to do? Taking them to animal burial grounds is somehow unethical and subsequently a new infection may appear because of this. The best solution to this issue is a cremator for animal disposal. Having such a unit on your own farm, you can properly dispose of dead livestock without any problems. In addition, you can dispose of any organic fertilizers containing garden pests and. Depending on the size of the device, it allows you to process from 50 to 1000 kilograms of contaminated fertilizers in one load.

Last year we bought a cottage with a small vegetable garden. True, the previous owners grew practically nothing on it. And we have grandiose plans for our garden, so we want to take care of the yield in advance, especially since the time is right - autumn is just around the corner. Tell me how to properly care for a vegetable garden in the fall to get a good harvest?

In order for your garden to enjoy a good harvest, you need to provide it with proper care starting in the fall. Autumn work in the garden includes:

1. Autumn weed and pest control.
2. Digging.
3. Fertilizer application.
4. Preparing holes for spring planting.

After harvesting, it is advisable to treat the soil with systemic herbicides to destroy the remaining weeds in the garden. Such drugs include Roundup; it copes well with “ever-living” weeds such as ragweed, wheatgrass, birch (field bindweed), acorn grass, and thistle.

Practicing gardeners have noticed that one autumn herbicide treatment replaces two spring ones.

Tornado is also quite effective against wheatgrass. It is used as a spray on the leaves of weeds.

To destroy birch trees, which love acidic and clayey soil, in the fall you should add fluff lime at the rate of 1 cup per sq.m. – it will change the acidity of the soil towards a decrease. It is also good to dig the area shallowly and add a few buckets of rotted compost so that the soil becomes looser by spring.

Unfortunately, the best effect in the fight against pigs is handmade. Since this weed has very long roots, to get rid of it completely it is necessary to manually select all parts of the root system after digging or plowing the garden in the fall. Applying this method in parallel with treatment with herbicides is not quick, but still after a couple of years it is quite possible to defeat the pig.

Sowing green manure plants, such as rapeseed, will help destroy wheatgrass and at the same time fertilize the garden.

You can get rid of a pest such as wireworm if you dig up the garden not in mid-autumn, but a little later - after the first frost, then it will simply freeze in the upper layers of the soil and die.

Digging the soil

It is recommended to dig up the garden for the winter, but there is no need to break up the clods of earth formed during digging. This way, the weeds and pests remaining in the garden from the fall will quickly die from frost, and with the onset of spring, the clumps will disintegrate on their own.

Sometimes, instead of digging up the soil, mulch it with leaves and raw compost. But this is not recommended, since spores of fungal diseases can be stored in the leaves, and this method will bring nothing but harm.

Soil fertilization

Before digging up the garden in the fall, organic fertilizers in liquid form or manure are applied to enrich the soil.

Liquid fertilizer can be prepared from chicken manure or from fresh cut grass. More useful manure is from bird droppings, but cow manure is also widely used. To enrich the soil with useful substances, the area under the garden is sown with green manure in the fall.

Preparing holes for spring planting

To increase potato yields, experienced vegetable growers advise preparatory work since the fall. To do this, in the area allocated for spring planting of potatoes, you need to make furrows with a spade (or using a cultivator), located from north to south and with row spacing of 60 cm.

In the spring, all that remains is to slightly renew the furrow with a hoe, lay out the potatoes and sprinkle with soil taken from the poured sides. This method is good because in the spring, when planting, the soil in the furrows turns out to be very loose and warmed by the sun.

Video on how to prepare your garden for winter

Some people think that work on a personal plot or in a vegetable garden ends with the harvest. And only real summer residents and gardeners know that at the end of summer it is not yet time to rest. After all, next year’s harvest directly depends on the autumn work on land plots. Autumn is the time to prepare the beds for the winter and spring sowing seasons. Farmers who grow organic berries, vegetables and fruits are especially diligent in this type of work.

Preparing beds for winter

Soil fertilization

Fertilizing the soil is of great importance. Experts in natural farming recommend and even insist that it is unnecessary and pointless to dig up the garden in the fall, and even add manure or other fertilizers in the process. The soil does not need to be dug up, but fertilizers need to be scattered over the surface of the entire area.

It is best to use only organic fertilizers. This concept includes much of what is considered ordinary garbage - dry branches of bushes and trees, rotten boards, any waste paper. After burning all this, ash remains - an excellent organic fertilizer. It must be scattered throughout the garden or summer cottage.

Another excellent fertilizer is manure. It is not advisable to purchase it from strangers - you can introduce a large number of different diseases into the soil. But natural waste from your pets can be mixed with sawdust or any herbaceous debris and spread directly onto the beds.

Organic fertilizers can be accumulated throughout the year.

Details about fertilizing with ash

Mulching

Mulching the soil is an integral part of natural farming. It saturates the soil with the necessary amount of organic matter, makes it fertile and prevents it from becoming depleted. The autumn season is the best time for mulching. The harvest is harvested, but a large amount of organic waste remains on the site.

Everything that remains in the beds (tops of vegetable plants, waste of vegetables and fruits) does not need to be removed. Cover everything on top with fallen leaves or pine needles, sawdust or any herbaceous plants, and cover the top with thick cardboard or waste from cardboard boxes. This mulch layer will provide the soil with protection from winter frosts and will also enrich the soil.

The roots of fruit trees can also be insulated with mulch. Straw and dry grass cannot be used - mice will breed in it, which will then cause no less harm than the cold. But all other organic materials can be used by placing them in tree trunks.

More about mulching

Sowing green manure

If there is a lack of materials for mulch, you can sow green manure. Proper green manure is the key to normal crop rotation on any site. Green manure will ensure normal growth and yield for vegetable crops, even if they are grown in the same bed every year.

Take note!

Before planting green manure, you need to carefully read the table of their compatibility with other plants and crops. It is imperative to take into account what grew in this area last year and what is planned to be planted here next year. Vegetable crops can destroy each other's harvests if you do not take into account their compatibility with green manure.

Green manure does not need to be buried in the soil. This is a waste of time that will only waste time. Substances useful for the soil are found in the green mass of grown green manure. It will be processed by earthworms and bacteria. All that is required from the owner of the site is sowing green manure and ensuring their normal growth.

Making compost

First you need to prepare a compost pit. It is best to fill it in the fall, when there is a lot of organic waste on the site. At the bottom of the pit you need to lay out long-decomposed organic matter - these are large tree branches and other wooden waste. This first layer can be covered with food waste and grass clippings, feces and grass debris. vegetable crops. Cover the top with a layer of fallen leaves, then earth and water it with a solution of preparations with effective microorganisms (EM - preparations).

After this, you can spread out a layer of any paper waste - newspapers, magazines, cardboard. Then again food waste, grass and tops of vegetable crops, leaves and a small layer of earth, and a little EM preparation on top.

When compost pit is completely filled with such layers, then the top should be covered with plastic wrap and left until the compost ripens (until spring). He is not afraid of winter frosts and cold. Until spring, the bacteria will do their job.

Construction of warm beds and trenches

If your compost bin is filled to the top and there is still organic waste remaining, you may want to consider building organic trenches or warm beds. For their improvement, all organic materials and waste that may be in the garden or at the dacha are needed. And such trenches and beds are useful for growing various vegetables. They will provide favorable conditions for growth and a large harvest.

Details about the construction of a warm bed

Protection of fruit tree trunks

Mice and hares can cause great damage to fruit trees. They love to eat the bark of young and mature fruit trees. To protect these plants, you can use the tying method. Each trunk must be tied with wormwood or spruce branches. These plants repel rodents with their specific smell. Tying should only be done with the onset of severe cold weather.

Cleaning of tools and equipment

This is another important stage of autumn work. After finishing work in the garden, you need to empty all containers of water and turn them upside down. All garden tools must be carefully inspected and, if necessary, washed, dried, cleaned, sharpened, and lubricated. During the spring sowing period there will not be enough time for this.

In the fall, you need to take care of preparing seeds and replenishing supplies of preparations necessary for the garden (for example, a remedy for diseases and pests, laundry soap, soda, salt, tar).

Having worked hard in the fall, you can make your work much easier in the spring.

The richer the harvest, the poorer the soil in the garden became. Therefore, in the fall it is necessary to increase fertility and improve the soil structure. We will talk about soil cultivation technology.

With proper autumn tillage, surface loosening will be sufficient in spring. Therefore, before the start of winter, it is necessary to have time to carry out all the main activities to prepare the garden for wintering.

Soil preparation in open ground

First of all, the beds are cleared of tops and weed roots. After which the soil is saturated with nutrients.

Improving soil structure

Organic and complex mineral fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium are applied to any type of soil. If you do not grow crops in this place every year, then fertilizers can be applied once every 3-4 years.

Improving the soil structure on the site

Don't know how to change the structure fertile soil? We will suggest several effective ways.

On heavy clay soils, additionally add ash, sand, compost or leaf humus. Thanks to this, the soil will become loose and permeable. IN sandy soils add rotted compost, leaf humus or sawdust. This will help retain moisture in the ground. And acidic soils are neutralized with chalk, dolomite flour or lime.

Most often, the soil is limed to a depth of 20 cm

How much lime should be added to the soil on the site?

We tell you how to properly lime the soil.

Digging the soil in autumn

Autumn digging can be carried out two ways:

• Dumpless– the dug up lump of earth is not turned over or broken. With this method, the natural microflora of the soil is preserved.
• Dump– the clod of earth is turned over and the top layer is sealed to the depth of a shovel bayonet. With this method of digging up the soil, weed seeds are deeply buried and cannot germinate in winter, and the larvae of insect pests, on the contrary, end up on the surface of the soil and die with the onset of frost.

It is difficult to say unequivocally which method is better. But, whatever method you choose, do not break the earthen clods so that the soil does not freeze. By spring it will be saturated with moisture and become crumbly.

Digging is carried out with a shovel or pitchfork. As a rule, the depth of the bayonet of a shovel is sufficient. In places where you plan to sow early crops in the spring, it is better to dig the soil to a shallower depth (up to 15 cm). In this case, after the snow melts, the soil will dry out faster.

If there are a large number of earthworms living in the soil on your site, use only a pitchfork when digging. Because a shovel will disrupt the vital activity of worms - the creators of humus.

An alternative method of tillage is sowing green manure. A month after sowing, the roots of the plants are cut with a flat cutter and the green mass is left to rot right on the beds.

On light, uncontaminated soils, as well as floodplain soils, you can do without annual digging

Supporters of organic farming urge not to dig up the soil in the fall, but simply scatter manure or ash over the surface without embedding it in the ground. In addition, they advise leaving tops from harvested plants (without signs of diseases) on the beds and mulching them with leaf litter, pine needles or grass, and covering them with cardboard on top. By the next sowing season, all this will rot and become an excellent fertilizer.

Tillage in a greenhouse

Preparing the soil for winter in a greenhouse and greenhouse is slightly different. The ideal option is to remove a layer of soil 7-10 cm thick (pest larvae, pathogenic microorganisms, and fungal spores usually accumulate here) and replace it with fresh soil.

However, you cannot take ordinary land from the garden, since pests can also live in it. Prepare the soil yourself from organic matter (humus or manure), wood ash and sand or sawdust. Spread the soil evenly in the greenhouse and treat it with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate solution. Then place mulch on the beds (for example, straw, corn tops or spruce branches) and close the greenhouse.

It is not recommended to scatter the soil from the greenhouse in the garden or vegetable garden, because it contains a large number of pathogenic microorganisms. It is better to pour it in some place on the site and sprinkle it with lime. In the summer, the pile must be carefully dug up, and after 1-2 years it can be returned to the greenhouse or scattered on the beds in the garden.

But if it is not possible to replace the top layer of soil in the greenhouse, disinfect land in one of the following ways:

• pour boiling water over it and cover with film (hot steam will destroy bacteria and insect larvae), after a day, remove the film, loosen the soil, repeat the procedure 2 more times;
• spill the soil generously with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• pour copper sulfate (1-2 tbsp per 10 liters of water);
• sprinkle the soil with bleach (100-200 g/sq.m) and dig to a depth of 20 cm (the exact rate of application of this substance depends on the acidity of the soil and its mechanical composition);
• spill the soil with a solution of formaldehyde (200 g per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 10 liters per 1 sq.m., rake the soaked soil into a pile and leave for 2-3 days. Then open all the windows and doors in the greenhouse for 3-4 days to remove the pungent odor. Then dig up the soil well;
• use special biological products to disinfect soil in greenhouses (Alirin-B, Fitosporin, Fitotsid, etc.).

Spilling boiling water on the soil is a very effective, but not without its drawbacks method. A significant disadvantage of this method is that along with pests and pathogens, beneficial microorganisms also die. Therefore, after steaming, the soil must be spilled with a solution of biological preparations (for example, Baikal EM-1).

In winter, do not forget to throw snow into the greenhouse (its layer should be about 20 cm).

Snow will protect the soil in the greenhouse from freezing and fill it with melt water in the spring.

When the air temperature drops to 8°C, it is advisable to disinfect the greenhouse. You can fumigate with a sulfur bomb (the required quantity per unit area is indicated in the instructions). Before starting the procedure, all cracks in the greenhouse are sealed. Sulfur checkers are placed in different parts structures, set them on fire and quickly leave, closing the door tightly. Three days after fumigation, the greenhouse is ventilated. A glazed greenhouse can be sprayed with a solution of bleach or 40% formaldehyde.

Sulfur, bleach and formaldehyde are very toxic, so disinfection of the greenhouse should be carried out using a gas mask.

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter: useful tips summer residents

The summer season does not end after the harvest. There is still a lot to be done, including cleaning up the greenhouse.

Properly cultivate the soil in the garden in the fall - and next season you will be able to grow a rich harvest of vegetables and herbs!

Is your garden ready for winter? What haven't you done yet to restore your soil?

The time has come to prepare the garden for winter, and today we’ll talk about exactly that... How we prepare the garden for winter in Natural Farming! How to carry out winter planting of vegetables, flowers and herbs! What work needs to be done to restore soil fertility! Let's remember Warm and High Compost Beds! So, let's begin…

Let's remember what needs to be done in the fall in order to increase soil fertility:

1. We don’t dig the soil! Under no circumstances should we dig up the area; we leave the soil untouched.

2. We do not remove the tops from the site and do not burn them! We leave all plant debris in the beds. All tops from vegetables and flowers... Be it tomato or potato tops, cucumber or squash, beet or carrot tops... We leave absolutely all leftovers in the garden.

3. We sow green manure! Immediately at the moment we harvest, we sow green manure in the vacant bed. We leave the green manures uncut in the winter. And before winter we sow additional Winter Rye!

4. Cover the soil! Not a single piece of land should be left bare during the winter! If you haven’t sown green manure, then cover the beds with a thick layer of mulch: leaf litter or straw are ideal for this! If this is not the case, then spread your own manure! animals, and cover the top with cardboard! We use rabbit manure and chicken manure...

5. Make warm or high compost beds!

6. Start a compost pile!

….If we don’t make warm beds or compost beds! We need compost, so we give it Special attention. If we have ready-made compost, we spread it around the garden: under bushes, trees, and just in the beds. But this is too labor-intensive, so it’s easier to compost organic matter directly on the beds...

How and when to do it correctly?

In the fall, as I already said, you can plant almost all plants! Starting from trees and ending with vegetables. We carry out winter sowings two weeks before severe frosts. Then, when no warmth is expected, the soil is frozen, and it’s only going to get colder ahead! For the Perm region this is from mid-October to mid-November. We rely on forecasts from weather forecasters.

To do this, we prepare the furrows in September, while the soil is warm. And in cold weather we sow seeds, sprinkle them with compost or coconut substrate, or rotted straw. If we didn’t have time to make grooves in the heat, then don’t despair.

If the soil is already frozen, and you suddenly decide to sow something before winter, then you can sow on frozen soil, and sprinkle on top with loose, fertile soil that does not become crusty. As a last resort, use purchased soil. And on top we mulch this furrow with a layer of rotted straw, a layer of at least 5 cm! The rest of the bed, where nothing was sown, must be mulched with a thick layer of mulch of at least 20-30 cm!

If the groundwater is close to the surface of the earth and the area is flooded, and the soil is heavy clay, then there is no need to dig a trench! We make a warm bed right on the surface of the earth! If the soil is sandy and there is always a lack of moisture, you will have to dig a trench 40 cm deep.

You can put together a box and install it in the garden bed. And we fill this box layer by layer with organic matter. At the bottom we put logs touched by fungus, rotten ones... Or large branches, but then we chop them with a shovel...

The next layer is again carbonaceous: old planks, straw, old hay, leaves, cardboard... And on top of this layer is again nitrogenous: food waste, manure, vegetable tops... so, a few more layers. In total, the organic layer must be at least 80 cm! Each layer also needs to be trampled down...

When laying such ridges in the autumn, it is important to spill the organic matter with water. The logs that we place on the bottom can be pre-soaked in water if they are dry... But usually we carry them from the forest, and the forest is always humid!

Microorganisms are better if they are local and adapted! There are enough of them in algae, in logs, in forest litter, in muddy slurry from the bottom of a ravine... Therefore, there is no need to buy EM preparations...

We cover the top of such a bed with inverted cut turf or a layer of fertile soil, and on top of it we sow green manure and sprinkle it with rotted straw! That is, this ridge should also not be empty in winter! Green manure sown in the fall will revive the garden bed and start the process!

And such a bed will be filled with a huge number of microorganisms and worms over the winter, and in early spring it will be ready for planting! Before others! She's full nutrients and is ready to feed and warm our crops!

The height of such a bed varies from 05 m to 1 m! The width is at least 80 cm and maximum 1.2 m, but you can make a terraced bed (with a height of 2 m), then we make it wider from 1.2 m to 1.5 m or even up to 2 m!

In such beds you can grow absolutely everything: fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetables, strawberries, potatoes... Everything!

There are no restrictions on the length and shape: you can make it winding, like a snake, in a semicircle, round around the perimeter of the site, or straight, so that it runs along the prevailing winds and is illuminated by the sun all day. See for yourself, decide for yourself!

If you feel that you can’t do it yourself, but you really want to create a productive vegetable garden - a biocenosis on your site, but you are afraid that you will do something wrong, then you can get an individual consultation with detailed and step-by-step instructions, with the development of the site, etc. d. For this

contact me in any convenient way

That's all for now, but I won't say goodbye to you for a long time! There are still a lot of interesting and useful topics ahead, stay tuned. All the best!

I would be grateful for the response from everyone who is capable of doing an unconditionally good deed! You can help us, we really need your help! Do GOOD - and it will come back to you!

After harvesting, garden beds need to be properly prepared for the spring sowing season, the most best time for this it is autumn. In addition to preparing the beds, it is necessary to remove and burn the vegetable tops left after harvesting, and carry out a set of necessary measures to create warm beds. This article contains all the necessary steps to prepare your garden for winter. Proper preparation of the garden for the winter is a guarantee of a rich harvest.

Preparing the garden for the winter season

In autumn, it is necessary to collect plant residues from the garden plot.

To ensure next year's vegetable harvest, preparing beds in the fall is a necessary and important event. Work in the garden should begin with removing tops and weeds from the beds. Old grass is a favorite wintering place for garden pests and rodents, so preparing your beds for winter begins with thoroughly cleaning them.

Tops of vegetable plants, plant debris and weeds can be destroyed in two ways:

1. Burn – when plant residues are burned, pathogens are destroyed infectious diseases and pests. The ash can be used to fertilize beds and garden trees.
2. Prepare compost - this method of disposing of weeds takes longer than burning, but the resulting nutrient substrate will help to inexpensively and efficiently increase the fertility of garden beds.

How to prepare compost correctly

Winter compost should be prepared slightly differently than summer compost. Suitable for composting are plant residues that are not removed from the summer cottage, including not only vegetable tops, but also branches of trees and shrubs, weeds, household waste, animal manure, bird droppings.

It is very important that in winter the compost heap does not freeze, is not washed away by precipitation and is not exposed to wind, so it must be done according to all the rules.

It is very important to ensure the decomposition of the ingredients in the winter, for which it is necessary to prepare a rectangular shallow hole in the ground, at the bottom of which cut branches of bushes and trees are laid. Then weeds and waste are layered, layered with manure and bird droppings.

It is useful to add double superphosphate, potash fertilizers, ash, lime or dolomite flour to the compost heap. For better air exchange, the side and end walls are lined with narrow poles. Height compost heap should not exceed 1.2 meters from the bottom of the trench, while the penetration into the ground is assumed to be 0.5 - 0.8 m. The heap is spilled with infusion of weeds, diluted with slurry. Soil is laid on top with a layer of 30 cm, the dock sides are covered with a thinner layer of soil and protected from rain.

The components included in the compost rot by the beginning of summer, allowing you to obtain a nutrient additive to the soil that doubles fertility, and at the same time get rid of garbage and weeds.

Preparing the beds

Tool for digging and loosening beds.

Preparing the garden for wintering includes digging up the beds, which can be done in the classic way by radically digging up the beds. In this case, large clods are not broken up, leaving them until spring. With such autumn digging, moisture is well retained in large clods of garden soil, so when leveling the soil in the spring, the percentage of moisture remains high.

The second option for processing a vegetable garden in the fall is to superficially loosen the soil to a depth of no more than 5 cm, for which a Fokina flat cutter is used. It is useful to mulch loosened soil with sawdust and ash; sometimes it is practiced to sow green manure grasses, the shoots of which are embedded in the soil when digging in the spring.

Preparing the soil for winter involves creating a balanced ecological system in the garden, closest to natural conditions using mulch and sowing green manure.

Green manure for winter sowing

The roots of green manure penetrate deeply into the soil, loosening it.

A reliable way to restore soil fertility is to sow green manure, which does not require large expenses when planting. Green manure is one or more annual crops (mixture) that quickly increase green mass and develop a powerful root system. Root system herbs penetrate into the deep layers of the soil, loosening and enriching its composition. The above-ground part of the plants serves for snow retention, is used as mulch when mowing, and is embedded in the soil (green manure).

Green manure is used based on its purpose and desired end result:

• Loosening the soil - rye, mustard, oats, and rapeseed are ideal for loosening heavy soil in garden beds.
• Disinfection of soil from pathogenic diseases of vegetable crops - winter sowing of a mixture of crops is used, which includes rapeseed, mustard, marigolds, calendula and oats.
• Increasing soil fertility - a mixture of vetch with oats or rye, mustard with legumes, alfalfa, sweet clover.
• Mulching – phacelia, vetch, alfalfa.

Sowing of green manure herbs can be done scattered or in rows in prepared beds after the autumn harvest of vegetable crops. A properly prepared garden will be able to provide a high harvest next year.

Sowing vegetables before winter

For early ripening of some vegetable crops, their seeds can be sown in beds in the fall. The harvest of winter vegetables is characterized by early ripening and high vitamin value.

In the fall, you can sow many garden crops; good yields can be obtained by growing carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, dill, root parsley, celery, and spinach.

Beds for winter planting of vegetables are chosen on dry open area, where wetting of the beds with groundwater and melt water is excluded. It is useful to protect crops from the directional north wind, and also to mulch the beds with compost or peat. The seeds will be able to successfully overwinter under reliable shelter and produce their first shoots in early spring.

It should be remembered that seed consumption when sowing vegetables in winter can double.

Autumn is the time for gardening chores, because winter is ahead with its weather surprises and troubles; who knows what she has in store for us... And although we may not be able to warm the trees in the winter cold, we have an excellent opportunity to help them prepare for this difficult period. There is enough work in the garden in the fall. So let's not waste time - let's go to the garden!

Harvest!

Autumn work in the garden should begin with harvesting. There should not be a single apple or berry left on the trees and bushes. The remaining fruits contribute to the preservation and spread of pests and diseases. If all the good things have long been eaten, and the remaining gifts from the garden are clearly not suitable for food, they should be collected and disposed of. You can bury them in a hole or burn them. You cannot leave apples under trees or throw them into a hole behind a fence. This is tantamount to leaving them on the branches.

Don't delay cleaning. Autumn varieties of apples and pears are harvested in the first half of September. Late autumn and winter - at the end of September or early October. Remaining unharvested for a long time, the fruits not only lose their taste, but also do not allow the tree to fully prepare for winter.

Autumn fertilizer.

Autumn work in the garden and vegetable garden necessarily includes the application of fertilizers and various nutritional supplements. IN different time plants in the garden and vegetable garden need different ratios of nutrients. In autumn, increased levels of phosphorus and potassium are required. These macroelements contribute to good ripening of wood, the accumulation of substances necessary for overwintering and a good spring start, have a positive effect on root growth and the formation of a future harvest, and increase plant resistance to certain diseases. They are also useful for improving the taste of fruits and their intense coloring.

And here nitrogen fertilizing must be excluded in the fall. This element provokes untimely growth of shoots and makes it difficult for wood to ripen. As a result, without having time to prepare for the cold, trees and shrubs are easily damaged even by slight frosts.

Fertilizers can be applied in both liquid and dry form. The fertilizer solution is prepared according to the instructions (the recommended concentration should not be exceeded) and the plants are watered at the roots. Foliar feeding is not carried out in the fall: the leaves at this time are coarse, protected by a dense covering tissue that is practically unable to allow various substances to pass through.

Dry fertilizers are evenly distributed throughout the tree trunk circle, after which the soil is shallowly dug up or loosened. Good results are obtained by applying fertilizers to the holes. To do this, make 3 - 4 holes 20 - 25 cm deep around a tree or bush, the required dose of fertilizer is evenly distributed over the holes, and the holes are buried. Do not make holes too close to the trunk: fertilizers are absorbed only by absorbent roots. They are located approximately along the perimeter of the crown. After applying dry fertilizers, the plants must be watered.

Fertilizers should not be left on the soil surface: potassium and phosphorus slowly move deeper into the soil, and phosphorus is easily absorbed by soil particles, becoming inaccessible to plants.

If the soil in the garden is acidic, deoxidizers (dolomite flour, lime, chalk) are added. It is useful to add ash. It is not only a good deoxidizer, but also a source of ash elements. But first, to determine the norm, determine the acidity of the soil in your garden.

The appropriate doses of the drug are indicated on the packaging. It is advisable to check the acidity of the soil annually, because most mineral fertilizers contribute to acidification of the soil.

Watering

What to do with your vegetable garden in the fall? Water, but wisely. A wet autumn or excessive watering can trigger autumn shoot growth, which prevents fruit trees from preparing for winter. Trees oversaturated with moisture most often receive frost damage. Therefore, as a rule, nothing is watered in the fall. However, if the weather is dry, it is necessary to water the plants. Plants that suffer from drought in the fall are not highly frost-resistant.

It is important to water the soil thoroughly before frost. Moist soil retains heat well and protects roots from sudden temperature changes. Dry soil in the garden, on the contrary, easily allows air to pass through and quickly cools to its temperature. As a result, the roots may be damaged already at the first frost.

Autumn work in the garden and vegetable garden - soil cultivation.

As in summer, in autumn it is important to ensure that the soil in the tree trunk circles is loose and free of weeds. Overcompaction and crusting prevent the penetration of air necessary for root growth and nutrient absorption. These processes require a lot of energy, which is released in the process chemical reactions, occurring with the participation of oxygen.

If there is not enough air, root growth stops, the supply of nutrients decreases, the plant quickly weakens, and resistance to pests, diseases and adverse weather factors decreases. Such a plant is not able to prepare well for winter and can suffer even in fairly mild winters.

During leaf fall or immediately after it, it is useful to dig up tree trunk circles with the obligatory turning of the soil layers. In this case, insects wintering in the ground find themselves in unsuitable conditions and in most cases die. Therefore, such autumn work in the garden is necessary. After digging, the ground is leveled with a rake. At this time, it is useful to mulch the tree trunks with organic materials (compost, grass, manure, leaves). Moreover, if the trees have already gone dormant and the top layer of soil is frozen, you can even use fresh manure. Mulch protects the roots from hypothermia and sudden temperature changes, and in the spring, as it decomposes, it serves as additional nutrition.

When pouring mulch, it is important to ensure that the base of the trunks remains free: filling the root collar can lead to its heating. It is advisable to combine digging and mulching with autumn fertilization.

Leaves are an excellent mulching material. It is best to use leaves from trees that do not have common diseases with fruit crops.

We fight diseases and pests.

In the fall, it is not advisable to spray trees and shrubs against pests and diseases. Short days and lower temperatures force insects to seek winter shelters - at this time there are very few pests on plants, and the wintering stages of pathogens are little susceptible to chemicals.

The only treatment that is useful to do in the fall is spraying trees, shrubs and the soil around them with a concentrated urea solution. 500 - 700 g of urea are diluted per bucket of water. Spray during active leaf fall or after it. Such autumn processing work in the garden contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues, and in the spring it will partly serve as additional nutrition.

We whiten the trees!

Trees need to be whitewashed, or rather painted, in the fall or early winter. To do this, choose garden paint with the addition of fungicides and a good adhesive base. It will help get rid of pests and pathogens that overwinter in the cracks of the bark. And at the end of winter it will protect trees from sunburn.

It is better not to use water-based chalk and whitewash, as they will be washed off by the first rain.

Whitewashing in the spring is primarily decorative and does not perform any significant protective functions.

Autumn pruning

In the Russian climate, autumn pruning fruit trees do not carry out: when frost sets in, the cut areas may freeze. And, if it is still necessary to remove some branches, then they need to be cut with a margin, 5 - 10 cm further from the intended location. Final pruning is carried out in the spring.

In the fall, sanitary pruning is usually carried out - diseased and damaged branches are removed. Branches infected with diseases should be burned. if left in the garden, they will serve as a source of new infestations.

Be sure to prune berry bushes in the fall. Cut off old branches of currants, gooseberries, and raspberries, as well as weak and poorly located ones. If necessary, thinning is carried out. It’s better not to leave this work until spring. It is not always possible to prune branches in early spring, before the growing season begins. From raspberries, those branches that were already with berries are removed.

Autumn work in the garden also includes caring for flowers. In winter, you need to prune and cover rose bushes so that they overwinter well.

What to plant in the fall at the dacha

In autumn, a huge number of seedlings go on sale. After all, right now nurseries are digging up young trees from the fields. It is better to purchase seedlings in the fall. But it is better to postpone planting trees until spring, especially if we talk about stone fruits (cherries, sweet cherries, cherry plums and others). It is unknown what kind of winter it will be. And when planted in spring, the tree will have time to take root well and become stronger.

Autumn is the time to plant trees and shrubs. To make it easier to navigate when buying seedlings, follow these recommendations: choose plants for planting that are one or two years old with a well-developed root system (approximately 30 - 40 cm long for plants with an open root system). The height of a one-year-old should be approximately 1 m, and a two-year-old should be 1.5 m.

Seedlings purchased in the fall are stored in a trench in the winter, laying them at an angle, with the crowns of the seedlings oriented to the south. It is best to place them in a place protected from the wind and midday sun. To protect against mice, the trunks are wrapped with agrospan or other non-rotting materials, and poisoned baits are laid out. So that the earth settles well, holes for spring planting seedlings are prepared in the fall.

Autumn planting is good for berry bushes and garden strawberries. In the spring, starting the growing season in a new place, they take root well and form a good bush already in the first year of planting.

Don’t forget to replant young berry bush plants pinned in early summer to a permanent place. Now is the time for this. Also, immediately after harvesting or in early autumn, it is necessary to remove the supports and remove the fences around the fruit berries. This year they will no longer be needed.

For flowers, plant spring-blooming bulbous tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths in the fall. Before winter, you can also sow cold-resistant annual flower seeds directly into the frozen seed furrows. Then in the spring you will have less worries about planting.

The following vegetables are planted before winter:

• garlic,
• carrot.

Protection from rodents.

Do not forget about protecting garden trees from rodents. In winter, mice and hares love to feast on the succulent bark of young trees. To protect trees, trunks and skeletal branches are wrapped with non-woven material from the ground itself; sometimes cattail or sunflower stems are used. Good protection is a fine-mesh plastic mesh, which is wrapped around the trunks with a margin. The mesh can be left for several years - other protective materials must be removed.

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