How to design your own quadcopter. What you need to assemble a quadcopter with your own hands, step-by-step assembly Calculations step-by-step assembly drawings quadcopter diagrams

Hello, pilot! We continue the topic of components. Today I will try to sort out everything related to energy supply. This article will contain all the necessary information on how to choose a battery for a quadcopter, and all the nuances of this process. Let's begin!

We will assume that you already have an assembly that you want to power. If not, then I advise you to do it first, and only then choose a battery. At a minimum, you should have engines in mind. Well, according to tradition, in order to immediately simplify your life and the choice of battery, I advise you to experiment with the Ecalc calculator. You need to enter into it all the parameters that you already know (well, or estimate). Then you can easily substitute different battery cells and look at the forecast. (The calculator shows approximate figures, but they are enough to estimate the result).

Well, it’s worth starting the article with a little explanation. We will only consider lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries. In fact, no one forbids powering the assembly from the same lithium-ion batteries, and even NiCd or Ni-MH, but it won’t be the same. If you really want to, then the mechanics of work are the same for everyone. Only the parameters of the cans themselves differ.

Pros of LiPo

• With the same weight, they surpass others in capacity
• Low self-discharge
• High voltage of one element (3.6 - 3.7 volts, versus 1.2-1.4 for NiCd) allows the use of fewer cells connected in series
• Thickness from 1 mm

Flaws

• Aging. The life cycle begins right at the factory. The battery gradually loses capacity even while it is just lying idle, due to oxidation of the electrolyte, and, as a result, an increase in internal resistance. In the end he just dies
• Higher price
• Fire hazard. Due to improper charging or mechanical damage, it flares up worse than September. Mechanical damage is especially dangerous, because they simply short out the lithium plates, it lights up due to a short circuit, and shoots out a stream of fire and electrolyte

Weight and dimensions

Well, everything is simple here. If you want to change the battery on a production drone, then you need to select a battery so that it fits into the battery compartment. At the same time, the weight of the drone with the new battery should not exceed its maximum take-off weight.

If you need it for homemade work, then again you need to meet the take-off weight (the total thrust of all engines), but this time with a significant margin. Naturally, the greater the power reserve, the better the drone’s flight characteristics.

Installing the battery outside the compartment, or not in the center of the homemade product, can lead to imbalance, increased air resistance, and simply damage to the battery pack.

LiPo battery structure

A lithium-polymer battery usually consists of several elements connected in series (cans, in common parlance). This is necessary to obtain the desired output voltage. With a series connection, the capacitance of the assembly remains the same, but the voltages add up.
The number of cans in a block is indicated by the letter S (serial).

Blocks can be connected in parallel. This connection increases (sums up) the capacitance. That is, to get a large capacity unit, for example 2000 mAh, you can connect two 1000 mAh units. The number of parallel blocks is denoted by the letter P.

This means that if the battery is called “Mark 1500 2s3p”, then it will be an assembly of six 500 mAh 3.7 volt cans, which in total will give 1500 mAh 7.4 volt.

Current level

Current output is designated by the letter C. One of the most important parameters. This parameter reflects the permissible discharge rate. The inverse value of this parameter reflects the minimum time during which the battery can be discharged without causing damage. For example, with a value of 10C, the battery can be discharged in 1/10 of an hour, that is, in 6 minutes.

Remember about overheating and explosion hazard? If you discharge the battery faster than possible, it will heat up and may eventually explode or die (at best). At the same time, batteries with a high C rating weigh more, which means they will discharge faster. You need to choose accurately, without reserve.

To determine the required value, you need to know the system consumption. The total consumption of electronic systems is usually insignificant and can be neglected. (But better check the light and video camera. You can definitely ignore the controller).

Calculations

1. Motor consumption 10 A
2. This means the consumption of four engines is 10 * 4 = 40 A, during flight at maximum speed
3. Let's say the battery is 5000 mAh = 5 Ah, 10C. (1 amp = 1000 milliamps)
4. Multiply 5 Ah by 10C = 50
5. 50 is more than 40, which means you can use the battery, or take a smaller capacity.

Capacitance characteristics

The capacity of any battery is measured in mAh (milliampere hour). This is a current that can drain a battery in one hour. For example, a 2000 mAh battery will be drained by a consumer of 2 amperes in an hour.

When selecting battery capacity, you should not chase the top performance. As the capacity increases, the weight and size of the module also increases. And since the dependence of flight time on battery capacity is a nonlinear function, sooner or later there comes a time when increasing capacity reduces flight time. The cherished balance point is located at approximately 70 - 75% of the weight of the maximum weight of the copter.

For example, if the lifting force is 1000 grams, and the drone itself, including engines and other offal, weighs 500 grams, then the battery should weigh 200-250 grams.

Connectors and sockets

The number of wires and their connectors depend on the battery pack assembly. 1S blocks do not need a balancing connector, so they have only one main output - power. Through it, the battery is connected to the board, from which the current goes to the flight controllers and engines, or to the charger. Power connectors are marked with the abbreviation XT (XT30/XT60/XT90), where the number indicates the maximum current, in amperes, that the connector can withstand.

A balancing wire is needed in assemblies 2s and larger. It is used only in recharging mode, in order to equalize the charge level in each of the cans.

Internal resistance

The current output, capacity and heating of the battery under load depend on the internal resistance. It depends on two factors - temperature and old age.

The optimal operating temperature of a LiPo cell is around +40 degrees Celsius. Then there is the least resistance. The dependence function is parabolic, so a deviation in any direction entails an increase in resistance and a drop in capacitance. (that’s why your phone dies in the cold)

The age of the battery also affects it. As you already know, they begin to age at the factory. Accordingly, the older the bank, the higher the resistance. As a result, at the end of its life cycle, a fully charged battery simply will not be able to discharge a charge, no matter how hard you try.

Charging safety rules

First, charge under supervision. Do not leave the house while the batteries are charging, and do not leave them overnight. This is due to the fact that cheap chargers and don’t understand what kind of batteries are an explosive mixture, and you don’t know whether you will find them in your home or not. There is no such strict control as that of mobile phone manufacturers (Hello, Samsung), so you have to be careful.

Secondly, fast charging is not about them. (again due to questionable quality). Don't try to charge with high currents. The normal charging speed is 1C.

Thirdly, do not charge cold or hot batteries. Let's remember about 40 degrees. There is one nuance here. If you load a cell with a temperature of -20 degrees, it will very quickly heat up to 60+ and explode, and from +40 the temperature can rise quite a bit. This is due to resistance.

And finally, I do not recommend using power supplies with contacts. Either USB from the computer, or a charging station (for assemblies). Charging from a computer's USB is practically safe, due to the low current, but from a power supply, through the same USB, it is completely unpredictable.

Charger

Charging a 1S can is nothing interesting. You can use USB and PC cable. But charging 2+S will require a special charging station. It should have a battery balancing function.

And again a nuance. Charging occurs in two stages. At first, the charger quickly reaches approximately 90% of the capacity. After this you MUST wait for the charging to finish. The remaining 10% is not just a charge. It's a balancing act.

After the first stage, the cells are charged anyhow. After this, their voltage is balanced by a weak current. This process may take longer than the first, but skipping it is fraught with disastrous consequences. In the best case, rapid wear of the cells; in the worst case, one of the cells goes into a deep discharge and subsequent disposal.

Charger parameters

The maximum current is 1C. It's easy to calculate. For example, you need to charge a 3000 mAh module. 3000*1 =3000 mA=3 A. You need a 3 ampere station.

Power – measured in watts. Watt = volts * amperes. To charge the 3s assembly (11.1V) with a current of 3A, you need a 33-watt charger. This is the minimum value. You can and should safely take more. Suddenly you get hold of a second battery and need 66 watts.

Useful features:

• Charge indicator
• Voltage measurement
• overheat protection
• Voltmeter

Types of chargers

Non-programmable - Conventional chargers. Turned on - charge. The simplest, cheapest and most boring.
Smart - they monitor the parameters and show them. For example, temperature, voltage, internal resistance, or assembly parameters.

Programmable - for advanced users. They can also show and take into account a bunch of parameters, but they also allow you to customize the process. You can set the number of cells, charge current, time, or even set up graphics.

What to take?

Special chargers:

• The iSDT brand has a large selection and range of prices. Good quality
• Turnigy Accucel 6 – Cheap and smart. For 50 watts they want $38
• Turnigy Reaktor 300W – powerful, smart and safe charging for $130
• SkyRC Q200 is a powerful thing. Essentially, 4 chargers in one (has 4 independent channels, which allows you to charge all batteries at the same time, even with different parameters). Suitable for large batteries. $240

Rechargeable batteries

• Turnigy Graphene – Reliable and time-tested modules at a low price. The only drawback is the weight
• B-Grade – The values ​​are “a little” embellished, but for the first time it’s the same. There's nowhere cheaper
• Turnigy nano-tech – the highest quality series
• Zippy Compact – small and quite peppy
• Kokam and Thunder power are the market leaders. The first is for light models, the second is for medium.

• When to land?
  Leave about 20 percent charge. This will save battery life and will definitely prevent your aircraft from suddenly crashing.
• How to store and transport batteries?
  So that they cannot be damaged mechanically. On the Internet they recommend a bucket of sand, but I wouldn’t go overboard and stick to wrapping it in a cloth when transporting it. Should be stored at room temperature. Ideally, buy a fireproof bag for all this (Safe bag).
• What is a fireproof bag (Safe bag)?
  And this is a special bag that is designed to contain any hell that a battery can unleash in it. An extremely useful thing. They come in different formats, prices and quality. You can safely order from China for delivery. It's worth it.
• What to do with over-discharged batteries?
  I'm sorry to break it to you, but they're dead... take heart. Lithium polymer batteries do not tolerate overdischarge at all. All that remains is to take it for recycling. You can try to revive the same lithium-ion ones with very weak currents, but this requires special equipment.
• How and when to recycle?
  When you realize that you don't need him. You should have special bins in your city (usually in government agencies and large stores) where you can take old batteries. Don't throw it in regular trash! Before disposal, it is advisable to discharge it with a weak load, but if there is nothing to do with it, then it will do.
• Battery boost
  It is advisable to do the first few cycles from 0 to 100. You fully charge the battery, and then drain it to capacity. Do this 3 times. This will extend the service life and “stretch” the container.

As expected, the topic is not very complex, but with a lot of nuances. The main thing here is to find a balance and not forget about safety precautions. The product is extremely unpredictable, especially if you followed your heart and took it from an incomprehensible Chinese.

That's all for today. Now you know a little more. Congratulations! If you have any questions, ask in the comments and subscribe to our groups on social networks. See you later, pilot!

The first tests of a multicopter aircraft took place back in 1922, but only in the second decade of the 21st century. this type of layout began to gain popularity at an impressive rate. Compared to other radio-controlled models, quadcopters are in great demand, probably because they have a practical purpose: at a minimum, capturing beautiful footage from the air.

Following consumer demands, manufacturers are flooding the market with an abundance of models of various configurations with various characteristics. Many buyers prefer RTF (ready-to-fly) kits that can fly into the air after simple calibration.

But not everyone needs the easy way. Particular pleasure can be derived from assembling the quadcopter from scratch on your own. The degree of complexity varies from kits with all the necessary parts for assembly to choosing each component yourself, checking their compatibility, assembling and configuring your own UAV.

It also makes sense to assemble a quadcopter if there are specific application scenarios for which factory models are not adapted. Or build your own flight training apparatus that you won’t mind breaking. A detailed drawing is not needed for this; a sketch on which all the elements are marked is sufficient.

Basic units and components

In order for the constructed device to be able to take off in the air, at least in theory, and to make assembling a quadcopter with your own hands a pleasure, you need to purchase a number of relevant components:

1. The flight controller is the “head” of the future UAV, in which all the basic necessary sensors are installed, as well as software for processing their readings, as well as commands coming from the control panel to control the rotation speed of each engine. This is the most expensive component you will have to buy to assemble a quadcopter.
2. Advanced modellers make the frame themselves from carefully selected materials (aluminum, plastic, wood, carbonate or combinations thereof). If there is a lack of experience or engineering knowledge, if a ready-made frame is more suitable for the project or there is neither the desire nor the time to design the quadcopter and its parts yourself, then ready-made frames produced in a wide range of sizes will come to the rescue.
3. It is better to choose brushless motors - they are somewhat more expensive, but much more reliable than brushed motors. For flights, rotation at a significant speed is necessary, so the absence of a collector has a positive effect on the service life. Purchase at least 4 (or 8, if you need an octocopter), if the budget allows, then with 1-2 spare ones.
4. Motor controllers, these boards that regulate the rotation speed of each motor and power it, will be mounted on the “beams” of the case. Their number corresponds to the number of engines.
5. Propellers or movers should be selected with special attention, because the size must match the dimensions of the future frame, regardless of whether it is built or purchased independently.
6. The power distribution board is designed to distribute power from the battery to the engine speed controllers. As a rule, each purchased case is equipped with a small board on which you can solder the inputs from all controllers, and then carefully power them. If desired, you can order a more advanced version of the main power board if your quadcopter circuit requires layout features.
7. Buying batteries is one of the most difficult moments in selecting spare parts. The type of suitable battery depends entirely on the intended purpose of the model being created. For fast models, it is better to take small batteries with high KV (revolutions per minute × Volts), and for low-speed filming devices, the priority is the ratio of capacity and weight, because the structure cannot be overloaded in any case. A useful addition is a battery charge monitor. You cannot do without a special balancing charger for the selected type of battery (lithium-ion or lithium-polymer).
8. A control panel with a receiver module that connects to the flight controller so that the device can be controlled. The type of control panel determines the comfort of control and some other available functions.
9. Additional options are selected depending on the purpose of the future device. Thus, camera stabilizers are often attached to drones for filming, and racing ones are impossible without an FPV (first person view) complex.

You will need few tools for assembly - a screwdriver for assembling the frame, a soldering iron and, of course, the skills to work with it.

The disadvantage of the latter is easy to eliminate during the assembly process; fortunately, the “aerobatics” of owning a soldering station is not needed. And it is better to use soldering irons with a thin tip.

Quadcopter drawings in the full sense of the word do not exist, and they are not needed. Assembly from modules eliminates this need. With consumables, everything is a little more complicated. To assemble a quadcopter with your own hands you will need:

1. Thread locker so that none of the screws can be unscrewed due to flight vibrations.
2. Heat shrink insulation for each soldering point.
3. Polymer clamps for fixing elements on the body.
4. Waterproofing compound for printed circuit boards.
5. Banana connectors for motors.

Nothing will prevent you from making the necessary corrections and modifications to the design during assembly or flight testing. Maybe for your purposes it is better to assemble an octocopter with your own hands. With care and caution, even the most technically illiterate drone hobbyist can build a flying drone. Moreover, future flight tests will reveal all the shortcomings, which will be eliminated. The result should be the perfect personal drone. The main thing is to clearly understand the scenario for its application.

Build process

There are many options for the layout and design of multicopters, but the most common are models with four propellers. Therefore, the assembly of such a quadcopter will serve as an example for a step-by-step overview of the assembly process. In the process, you can rely on approximate drawings of quadcopters from the network or compiled by yourself.

1: Build the frame

Regardless of size or purpose, each drone must have a frame, frame, and supporting base. Assembling finished frames should not be difficult due to the fact that they are supplied with detailed instructions and all the necessary fasteners.

And to assemble the frame yourself, you will have to show your design skills. A self-made quadcopter frame made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic or wood must be strong enough. For example, the thickness of the wooden parts of a self-made frame must be at least 30 mm. Assembling your quadcopter on a frame that is not strong enough is a waste of effort, because it will often break.

In any case, the output should be a given number of beams of the same length, which are carried by motors and attached to the central supporting plate. Landing supports or “legs” are also installed on it. In some configurations, the legs “grow” from under the engines. It all depends on the features dictated by the drawing of the quadcopter and its frame.

2: Install the power unit and propellers

Engines, their controllers and propellers play a key role in speed, maneuverability and other flight characteristics. Therefore, you should choose products from brands that work closely in the quadcopter industry, and not from someone who ended up in this market segment by accident.

Motors for one project must be of the same model from the same manufacturer.

Yes, the movement occurs due to the difference in the speed of their rotation, but it must be strictly controlled. A motley crew of engines would upset the balance. They are attached with screws to the outer ends of the “beams”.

After the engines, speed controllers are placed on the plane of their supports and secured with ties. The connection of the controllers to the motors, as well as to the distribution board, is carried out by direct soldering and connectors. If desired and on a budget, you can use a 4-in-1 controller, but then the layout of the quadcopter will change slightly. The result is an almost finished copter, which only lacks a flight controller.

3: Installing the “brains”

The flight controller is typically mounted on the top of the aircraft frame, above the power distribution board and battery compartment. The layout can be changed, but it is worth remembering that the lower the center of gravity, the more stable the device.

To minimize the effect of vibrations on the operation of the flight controller, its mounting pad is often mounted on rubber spacers or more sophisticated vibration damping systems are used. At the design stage, this is a good opportunity to show off your engineering ingenuity without causing irreparable damage to the entire structure.

Only after the controller is installed can the remaining components and modules be placed: a receiver from the control panel, a GPS sensor, a magnetic compass, a camera, a gimbal, etc.

And only place it on the body; connection is permissible only after the initial calibration of the flight controller.

Different manufacturers produce different controllers, remote controls and other components. Therefore, their calibration is a complex and variable process worthy of separate consideration.

I'm interested in quadcopters. I decided to place an order, the choice fell on the Habsan x4 with a 0.3MP camera.
I waited and received it. I flew it quite a lot (there were crashes, long waits for spare parts and repairs). The idea came to my mind to build a large quadcopter, I plunged into this topic, and re-read many articles. Whenever possible, I answered questions from people in the Rc modelers group: regarding the selection of parts, assembling the quadcopter. From all this the idea to write this article arose.
Flight principle


So, If you decide to build your own quadcopter, then you need to decide on a budget. The size depends on the amount you are willing to spend on this Miracle. The most common sizes (in mm) are 250,330,450,550 and more.
*250 size: small, light, most often used only for FPV flights.
*330 and 450 the golden mean for a budget quadcopter. Acceptable weight and assembly price.
*550 and more can be classified as professional copters or multirotors. Such machines will turn out to be heavy and expensive. These aircraft will have powerful engines and they can carry a decent amount of weight, up to kilogram DSLRs.
I will continue my story based on a 450 scale copter.
A special place in this category is occupied by the DJI 330 and 450 and TBS Discovery frames.


Their price is appropriate...high.
There are many clones, and I chose this one.

It's time to find out what is it quadcopter and what it consists of.
1. Frame
2. Receiver/Transmitter
3. Flight controller:
a) AIOP
b) NAZA
c) MuliWii
d) HKPilot
e) AMP
f) And others

4. Power plant
a) Motor
b) Speed ​​controller
c) Propellers
5. Battery
6. Add. Equipment:
a) FPV system (first person view in real time)
Heading camera
Transmitter
OSD
b) Gimbal for on-board camera
c) Backlight

Now we can look at everything in detail.
1) With frame have already decided. 450 scale, TBS clone.


2) Receiver/Transmitter. Its choice is very important. You need to understand for yourself: how far you want to fly.
The most popular options:
 1.5-2 km will provide 2.4 GHz
 433 MHz will provide about 5-10 km (it all depends on the power, you can fly 20 km)
For myself I chose 2.4 GHz FlySky Th9x 9 channels



Not expensive and easy to set up equipment.
A quadcopter requires at least 5 channels.
The choice of this equipment is due to its popularity, how long it has been on the market. There are many clones. There is a lot of debate about which company was the first, this is the same Turgiga 9, Avionix and others... There are a lot of settings on the Internet.
3) Flight controller
At the moment there are a lot of flight controllers for quadcopters. I made my choice. This Naza Lite with GPS

Not very expensive and angry. Naza requires minimal setup and is very easy to do.
With AIOP, Crius and MultiWii controllers it will be many times more difficult, especially for a beginner.
Why did I take a controller with GPS?
This function is necessary for hovering at a point and returning home.
I see this as a very convenient functionality.
4) Power plant
Raises many questions among the uninitiated.
BC motors are used. They are three phase (3 wires), their efficiency is about 90%.
To control the rotation speed of such a motor, a speed controller (regulator) is used, which receives commands from the flight controller.

Let's consider frames 330.450mm. Depending on your needs, you need to estimate the weight of the quadcopter. On average it turns out from 1k to 1.5kg. It is desirable that the thrust of the motors be 2-2.5 times greater than the total mass. This suggests that the thrust should be 2-3 kg. We divide this by 4 and get the thrust of one motor: approximately 500-750 g.
The question arises: which engine to choose? We look at the characteristics of the frame: we are interested in what engines can be installed in it. The first 2 digits should be of interest: 22 or 28 in most cases.
Let's start choosing an engine. You will see a certain value next to the engine name, for example: 1100kv. This value indicates the number of revolutions per 1 volt. Motors with high kv values ​​have fewer turns of the stator winding than lower speed motors. It follows that the maximum current will be higher in motors with lower kv, which have more torque and this allows the use of larger propellers.
Can be compared to a car's gearbox. 380kv and 1400kv are like the first and third gears of a car.
380kv for measured slow and long flights with a large load capacity
1400kv for fast and manoeuvrable running.
On the Internet or in the description of this engine you can see its technical characteristics and test results. You need to find out the maximum current (A) that the engine can draw and, based on this data, select a speed controller (ESC). Let's say max A for a 20A motor. Then, we take ESC 20-25% more powerful, 25-30A.
Now let's look at the test results.
For example we see: 11x4.7 –3S-12A – 830g
It means
11x4.7 - propeller characteristics (11-inch, 4.7 pitch)
3S - number of LiPo battery cans
12A - current strength in the circuit at a given load
830g – engine thrust under given conditions
Thus, the maximum thrust is 830x4 = 3300 g, the maximum current in the circuit is 12x4 = 48A
The maximum current strength is needed to select the Battery and Wiring.

For starters, don't buy carbon props. Overpayment. Learn to fly cheap ones.
The propeller mounting depends on the engine itself. Most propellers have an adapter for the engine axis. Possible mounting on collets or threads. DJI has excellent self-tightening options; with this option, your propeller will never come loose during flight.
For simpler options, I advise you to additionally secure it with thread sealant.

Paying attention : You can compare motors with different kv under conditions of the same standard size. For example, EMAX XA 2212 exists in different configurations:
820
980
1400
They can be compared.
The efficiency of a motor with 1400kv will be maximum when using an 8040 propeller,
And a motor with 820kv - with a propeller of 1147.
A motor with 820kv will have maximum torque, so it is advisable to use large propellers. And a motor with 1400kv will love high speeds at lower loads.
The difference between the presented motors is in the winding.
It makes sense to use them like this:
1400kv on a 330 frame and 8040 propellers
980kv on a 450 frame and 1045 propellers
820kv on a 500-550 frame and 1147 propellers
I chose
And propellers
Wonderful set.
Connection diagram
For simplicity: Signal - black, Power (+\-) - red


5) Battery
When choosing a battery, you need to select the current output. This is the number C. (25С,35С)
Don’t forget that, according to our data, the system consumes 48A.
Let's say there is a 3300mAh 3S 35C Lipo Pack battery
3300 mAh - battery capacity
3S – number of cans (one can 3.7v)
35C – current output. Those. Battery capacity 3.3Ah (3300 mAh) x 35C = 115A
Which sufficiently covers our energy consumption. Even too much. The higher the C, the heavier and more expensive the battery.
Let's see whether a battery of the same capacity, but with a current output of 25C can cope with our tasks or not: 3.3Ah (3300 mAh) x 25C = 82A
Answer: Yes.
Such a battery will be lighter and cheaper.
To monitor the battery condition, you can buy such a thing.

Imax B6 is very popular for charging batteries, be careful, there are a lot of fakes.

And don't forget to handle LiPo very carefully.
My advice: take at least a couple of batteries.
6) Add. Equipment.
When you have decided on the flight range and selected the control system, you can begin choosing an FPV system:
FPV - literally: first-person view in real time.
 2.4GHz is compatible with 5.8GHz
 433MHz compatible with 1.2GHz
Otherwise, joint interference will be created.
For my 2.4 GHz I selected 5.8 GHz 200mw

The FPV system consists of:
1) Course camera
2) Transmitter on a quadric
3) Receiving station on the ground.
To increase the communication range, you can replace standard antennas with “clovers”

Most transmitters are powered within 9-12v, a small 3S battery can power the transmitter and camera, which is selected for a given voltage.
What does 200mw mean?
This is the transmitter power. It directly affects the communication range. In open areas with non-standard antennas, the signal can be received at a distance of up to 1 km.
Considering that my control system is not capable of controlling a distance of more than 1.5-2 km, this is ideal
option for my needs.
Now everything is clear with the choice of receiver and transmitter, but how to choose a camera, there are a huge number of them?
The choice of camera initially comes down to money.
There are cameras that have the function of streaming data and simultaneous recording. The cost of such cameras is much higher. The mobius camera is very popular.

Its competitor has appeared, which also has an AV output

You can use the cheapest directional camera, without a housing. The cost of which ranges from 600 to 1000 rubles, and is recorded using a good action camera on a gimbal.
For an FPV camera we will see the TVL number. What it is? This is the number of scan lines. For an FPV camera, 500-700TVL will be enough. The level of minimum illumination is important; this parameter is measured in lux. 0.01 lux is enough for flights even in the evening. The viewing angle is equally important. 100-120 degrees is ideal. It would be nice to have automatic highlight and auto correction. white balance.
The picture can be displayed on such a monitor

You can buy a 2- or 3-axis gimbal for the camera. This thing allows you to rotate the camera and have a more stable picture, without jerking or jerking.
The thing is quite expensive.
I have this one:
Naturally the on-board camera itself
You can install LED backlight, beeper, GPS tracker

As you understand, to assemble such a UAV requires quite a lot of investment.
The price is approximately 400-500 dollars.

This review is intended for beginners and contains theory; there will be a continuation soon. With assembly and configuration.
I have planned a series of articles and will slowly implement them.
I will be glad to criticize Thank you per view.
I'll show you the cards: the end result


How to assemble such a thing and lift it into the sky?
Instructions will be in the next part)

Here is a short video from the first flights with a gimbal.

P.S. Everything was purchased with personal funds. I'm planning to buy +99 Add to favorites I liked the review +62 +150

Hello! Today we have a very interesting topic on our agenda. I think you have already thought about the fact that you can assemble a quadcopter with your own hands. The idea is really interesting. By choosing this, not the easiest path, you will not only get a good drone, but you will also be able to understand its structure and gain a lot of useful knowledge. And you will absorb some of this knowledge today. Go!

Before you start, it’s worth remembering - what are the ways to get your own quadcopter? There are actually five of them.

RTF

RTF (ready to fly) – Just buy a ready-made copter. All you have to do is take it out of the box and launch it into flight. This is a good option if you are not interested in these designers and just want to satisfy your need for a UAV. However, it's not nearly as fun as the remaining options.

All inclusive package

Suitable for those who want to make a drone with their own hands, but are not going to spend hours understanding documentation, calculators and other intricacies. Everything there is calculated and adjusted by the manufacturer in the same way. You just need to assemble and configure. If you are now choosing your first quadcopter, then this is definitely your choice.

ARF kit

ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) – This is a little more complicated. There are different degrees of “readiness”. In some places you need to buy an additional controller, and in others only the copter frame is included in the kit. You will have to assemble the quadcopter, configure and calibrate it yourself. An option for those who want to dig deeper into their UAV.

From scratch

This is the choice of advanced users. Building a copter from scratch means designing and manufacturing a frame, and so on. This is a difficult but very interesting path, especially if you do not take a ready-made control module, or a raspberry pi.

From scrap materials

We are not looking for easy ways. Grandfather's garage, aliexpress and electronics trash are our choices. A path of pain, PVC pipes and hardcore, but as a result you will get a completely homemade quadcopter. There is complete scope for imagination, and all the necessary components and drawings of quadcopters can be found on the Internet.

Instructions for assembling a quadcopter with your own hands (for beginners)

Now let's figure out how to assemble the quadcopter of your dreams. I’ll say right away that this is a generalized guide, and some points may differ. I will try to systematize the process and point out the main points of selection and assembly.

Parts for assembling a quadcopter.

Assembling a quadcopter with your own hands begins with selecting components. This is the most critical stage.

Frame components

The supporting structure of the copter is extremely important. How much extra power you have left depends on its characteristics. The lighter the frame, the more expensive it is. You shouldn’t worry too much about strength if your plans do not include building a quadcopter for massive cameras. There are three main types of frames - four-beam, six-beam and eight-beam. In this case, we will start from a four-beam layout with single engines (one engine per beam).

The frame can also be equipped with folding arms, but this is very expensive and not really necessary. You can try to implement this yourself.

Features when choosing components

Motors

Whatever you need. Firstly, if you buy them in China, their characteristics will be inflated. Secondly, it will give you more space. For example, if you need to hang a heavier camera, or some other module, this will not harm the flight characteristics.

Propellers

This topic is quite extensive. You need to focus on your needs. If this is a simple copter for “flying”, then you can safely take plastic ones. If you want a real working unit for aerial photography, or (which is not paradoxical, because every gram counts) then it is advisable to use composite materials. Well, don't be greedy. An overpayment of 10 percent can eliminate the need for balancing.

Remote control and receiver

To begin with, the smart solution would be to take a remote control that comes with a receiver. Then they will already be paired, and all you have to do is connect the receiver to the control board. Don’t take the remote control thoughtlessly either. Typically, decent specimens with a long range start at 1,000 rubles. Many have a bunch of functions that will be impossible to use. For example, there are mode switches, but the board does not support flight modes. Because of this, weight and volume are taken up by useless switches.

Speed ​​controllers

They are characterized by power, motor turns, internal resistance, presence of reverse, accuracy of operation and a bunch of other scary parameters. If possible, look for a set of motors with controllers. If you don’t want to do that, then you’ll have to smoke forums and documentation. In principle, if you agree on the permissible type of motors and the output power, then the chance of missing is minimal, but I didn’t say that. Double check.

Battery

Using a calculator. It takes into account many parameters, including the weight of the battery pack itself. Again, I don’t recommend buying cheap ones. Burns beautifully, but too quickly. , and is equipped with powerful motors and other attachments with high energy consumption, then do not forget to check whether the batteries have enough power.

Camera

Wow, this is the toughest thing. A camera is not always needed, but if it is needed, then . As a recording camera, it is worth using action cameras - GoPro or its Chinese analogues (they are not much inferior in video quality, if not superior to the “company”). You need to focus on weight and viewing angle. Everything is clear with weight, but I’ll tell you about the angle.

I would like the camera to capture the beauty of the world, but not the rays of the copter. If you miss and this happens, you will have to choose from two bad options.

Lower the camera so that it does not touch the propellers. You will most likely have to lower it strongly, and this will cause a lot of problems with takeoff and landing, as well as with maneuverability, due to the shifted center of gravity.

Bring the camera forward. That's also a problem. The center of gravity will shift again (in this case, you can try to balance it using the battery). It will make the structure even heavier, because you will have to come up with a very powerful clamp. Otherwise, no budget vibration dampers will help the matter, and the jelly effect is guaranteed.

You can try using the approximate formula L= 2 * tg (A /2) x D, where:

• L — Camera field of view at distance D
• Α — Camera viewing angle
• D – distance to the object (in our case, to the propellers)

You will get the diameter of the circle, but since the camera takes a rectangular image, this diameter will be the diagonal. There you can roughly estimate whether it hurts or not.

We select components based on the desired result. There is no need to take the best if it is not necessary. You can approximately calculate the capabilities of your assembly using a calculator.

Chinese details

I’ll say right away that you can buy it in China, but you should approach the issue much more seriously. The Chinese constantly inflate the characteristics. So, you need to roughly understand how and what works, and not fall for the Chinese tales about unprecedented parameters and wonderful quality. In short, you can, but with understanding of the matter and at your own peril and risk.

Controller

The controller is the brain of your multicopter. They can be divided into two types.

Universal: For example, DJI NAZA. This controller can be used with absolutely any assembly. Whether it's a quadcopter or an octocopter. It is not designed to control anything specific. You can hang a bunch of equipment on it, it has many functions and sensors.

There are also disadvantages. The first minus is the price. The same DJI Naza-M V2 costs 17,000 rubles. The second disadvantage is the need for configuration. For this, a special program written for a specific controller is used. Almost everything can be replaced and adjusted there, but this requires some effort, knowledge and time.

Specialized: As in the following example. It is already tailored to work with a specific copter layout. Of course, it gives some space, but you can’t adjust the power on each engine. It's inexpensive and does little. That's it, for starters.

Step-by-step assembly instructions

Let's agree that you read our article about choosing a kit for assembling a quadcopter, and took the most valuable advice - take a frame with a distribution board. If not, then connect the wires directly to the control module.

For example, consider an assembly consisting of the following components:

• Diatone Q450 Quad 450 V3 PCB Quadcopter Frame Kit 450mm
• Motor DYS D2822-14 1450KV Brushless Motor. 4 pieces
• Regulator DYS 30A 2-4S Brushless Speed ​​Controller ESC Simonk Firmware
• Propellers DYS E-Prop 8×6 8060 SF ABS Slow Fly Propeller Blade For RC Airplane
• Quadcopter control module KK2.1.5 kk21evo
• Lithium polymer battery Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 4S ~90C Lipo Pack
• Hobby King Variable6S 50W 5A battery charger
• Battery Connector XT60 Male Plug 12AWG 10cm With Wire
• Connectors 20 Pairs 3.5mm Bullet Connector Banana Plug For RC Battery/Motor
• Quadcopter control panel Spektrum DX6 V2 with AR610 Receiver (complete with receiver and transmitter)

Approximate price - 20,000 rubles

Spread the ingredients on the table in an even layer and begin.

Stage one. Assembly

1. You roughly estimate the required length of the controller wires, add a small margin “for crookedness” and cut them to the required length
2. Solder the connectors to the outputs of the regulators to make it easier to connect the motors later
3. Solder the regulators to the wiring board
4. Solder the battery pack connector to the wiring board
5. You screw the motors onto the arms of the copter. When installing motors, try not to strip the threads.
6. If there are no connectors on the engines, then solder them too
7. Screw the beams with motors to the board
8. Attach the regulators to the drone's beams. It doesn’t matter what, but the most convenient way is with plastic clamps
9. We connect the regulator wires to the motors in any order. If necessary, we will change it later
10. You attach the control module to the case (after photographing the back part. This will come in handy). Again, at least for chewing gum, but I advise you to use soft double-sided tape for now
11. Connect the speed controllers to the controller. Those ports that are marked (+ - empty) are usually connected with a white wire to the screen
12. Use the remaining tape to secure the receiver as close to the control unit as possible, and connect the required channels to the required ports. Use the documentation of your receiver and a photo of the back of the board to figure out which bundle of wires is responsible for what.
13. Connect the device to battery power via the connector
14. Profit! You've assembled your quadcopter

Stage two. Debugging

1. You start the engines (usually everything is different here, so again look at the documentation)
2. You increase the gas a little and look in which direction the propellers rotate. They must rotate as indicated in the diagram that comes with the controller. Otherwise the control will be inverted. If something is wrong, then simply turn over the connector that connects the motor and controller
3. When everything rotates correctly, you screw on the top part of the frame. Don't push her into your place. If she gets up hard, then something went wrong. Loosen the bottom screws, and after installation, tighten everything evenly
4. Attach the battery pack
5. Mount adapters for propellers on motors
6. You install the propellers, taking into account the direction of rotation of the motors. The raised part of the blade should point in the direction of rotation
7. Done. Your copter is ready to survive the first power-up!

This was one of the simplest examples to start with. Of course, if you want to use a camera, GPS or a more complex controller, the design will be more complex. Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, then you should start small. Everything else can be screwed on later.

However, do not overestimate the complexity of homemade products. If there is no goal to assemble a multicopter from PVC pipes based on Arduino (and this also happens), then there is nothing in this that an ordinary user cannot do. The main thing is not to get lost, read and ask if something is not clear.

Conclusion

Finally, I would like to add a little moral to this text. Any such activity, be it designing or simply assembling, is a powerful educational tool. The main thing is to just start. You will begin to understand many of the subtleties and learn to concentrate on important points. This applies not only to the assembly of copters.

To assemble a quadcopter with your own hands at home, you must first understand the basic components of the quadcopter.

Parts for assembling a quadcopter

1. Quadcopter frame Diatone Q450 Quad 450 V3 PCB Quadcopter Frame Kit 450mm (the last three digits in the name Q450 indicate the distance between the motors in mm diagonally). It is the body of the aircraft, which will be used to mount all other equipment and electronic components. Consists of 4 beams and a printed circuit board. Weight 295 grams.

   banggood.com

   Price 922 rub.

2. Motor DYS D2822-14 1450KV Brushless Motor. 4 pieces.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 571 rub/piece

   

3. Regulator DYS 30A 2-4S Brushless Speed ​​Controller ESC Simonk Firmware for speed regulation and speed control. 4 pieces.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 438 rub/piece

   

4. Propellers DYS E-Prop 8x6 8060 SF ABS Slow Fly Propeller Blade For RC Airplane, 4 pieces. Two right-handed and two left-handed propellers.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 125 rub/piece

   

5. Quadcopter control module KK2.1.5 kk21evo. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 1680 rub.

   

6. Rechargeable lithium-polymer battery Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 4S ~90C Lipo Pack, you need to prepare at least two pieces, and preferably four, as they run out quickly. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Parkflyer.ru

   Price 1268 RUR/piece

   

7. Hobby King Variable6S 50W 5A battery charger. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Hobbyco.ru

   Price 900 rub.

   

8. Battery connector XT60 Male Plug 12AWG 10cm With Wire. 1 PC.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 144 rub.

   

9. Clamps for securing wires to the quadcopter body. 1000pcs 2.0x100mm Black/White Nylon Cable Ties Zip Ties. 1 package.

   Sold in the online store Banggood.com

   Price 316 rub.

   

10. Connectors 20 Pairs 3.5mm Bullet Connector Banana Plug For RC Battery/Motor. For regulator wires. 1 package.

    Sold in the online store Banggood.com

    Price 256 rub.

    

11. Velcro strip for attaching the battery to the quadcopter body. 1 PC.

    Sold in the online store Banggood.com

    Price 79 rub.

    

12. 50pcs Motor Fixing Screws Set for DJI F450 F550 HJ450 550 Quadcopter Multicopter. 1 package.

    Price 217 rub.

    

13. Remote control for quadcopter Spektrum DX6 V2 with AR610 Receiver. The receiver and transmitter are supplied in one kit. 1 PC.

    Price 9700 rub.

    

In total, a set of equipment for assembly will cost 20,018 rubles.

Features when choosing components

Basic characteristics of the transmitter:

• Modes Mode1 or Mode2. In the first mode, the gas handle is on the right, in the second mode, the gas handle is on the left.
• The transmitter frequency is 2.4 GHz.
• Number of channels. The minimum channels required to control the aircraft are four. Control equipment from Spektrum DX6 V2 with AR610 Receiver contains 6 channels.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a quadcopter with your own hands

1. We reduce the length of the wires on the regulators. When connecting the regulator to the motors, the length of the wires will significantly exceed the length of the beam on which this entire structure will be attached.

   

2. We solder the connectors to the ends of the wires on the regulator so that in the future you can connect the regulator to the motors.

   





3. We install the motors - we screw 1 motor onto each beam.

   

   

4. We assemble the frame. Screw the beams to the board.

   

   



5. We connect the regulator wires to the motors. The regulator and motor cables are connected in any order. In the future, you may need to change the connection order when finalizing the drone configuration. When using dedicated regulators for each motor, the positive and negative poles must be connected to the controller from only one regulator.

   

6. We secure the control module to the body with double-sided tape. It is best located in the central part of the platform.

   



7. We secure the receiver to the body with double-sided tape and connect it to the control module. The receiver should be located as close as possible to the module.

   

   The purpose of the channels is described in the receiver manual. Usually their sequence is as follows:

   1. Ailerons - the channel responsible for left and right turns;
   2. Elevator - a channel guiding forward and backward directions;
   3. Gas is a channel that controls gas. Manages takeoff and landing, as well as altitude changes;
   4. Yaw - the channel makes it possible to rotate the quadcopter around its axis.

   

8. We power the device. We connect the battery to the connector.

   

This operation completes the quadcopter assembly process.

Setup

1. We start the engines. Activation of engines requires the process of starting motors - arming. The instruction manual explains in detail how to achieve this. Deactivation of engines requires a disarming procedure.
2. We turn on the weak gas and make sure that the motors are rotating. The rotation pattern must be the same as indicated in the diagram in the controller manual. If the motor rotates incorrectly, you just need to swap the poles of the wires coming from the motor to the controller.

   

3. We screw the second platform to the quadcopter body.

   

4. We attach a Velcro strip to the case to secure the battery.

   

   DIY quadcopter assembly using Arduino

   Conclusion

   Only those who like solving complex problems can carry out self-assembly of a quadcopter. These should be people who enjoy the process of various calculations and the process of assembling the device.

   The advantage of a copter assembled with your own hands is that you can upgrade it at any time by adding new equipment.