How to create an all-terrain vehicle, carakat, snowmobile, pneumatic vehicle, ATV and swamp vehicle from a walk-behind tractor? How to make a pneumatic runner from a walk-behind tractor, instructions, photos Do-it-yourself pneumatic runners on low-pressure tires.

A lot of time was devoted to working on this amphibious all-terrain vehicle, and I want to tell you about it only now, when all possible and impossible tests have already been passed. As I planned, I assembled the car according to the 4x4 scheme.

Frame

Pipes measuring 50x25 and 16 millimeters in diameter were used to make the frame. In this case, thicker pipes were used to make the main elements, and smaller ones for additional parts. In addition, the frame design uses a corner measuring 25x25 and 35x35 millimeters.

Structurally, the frame consists of a central box, body kit parts and wheel arch frames. The central box is a waterproof structure, with a frame made of 35x35mm angles. In the front and rear parts of the box, the role of the walls and bottom is performed by three-millimeter steel sheets, and the middle part is made of three layers of fiberglass impregnated with epoxy glue. This was done to give the box buoyancy (the car was conceived as an all-terrain vehicle, after all). Wheel arch frames, steering column spars and body parts are attached to it.

Homemade all-terrain vehicle frame

Inside the box there is a gearbox, transfer case, main gear housings of the front and rear axles and cardan shafts. Thus, the risk of damage to transmission components is minimized. Hatches in the bottom of the hull provide unobstructed access to the units. The bottom of the body is attached to the upper ribs of the box for welding.

Body

Externally, and internally too, the body is made in two volumes. The first volume is reserved for the engine compartment, and the second volume houses the cabin and space for luggage. It seems to me that this arrangement is most suitable for using the car in difficult road conditions.

General diagram of the all-terrain vehicle

The basis for the manufacture of the engine compartment and cabin was the old Zaporozhets model 968. The front half of the body was cut off from it, which was used. The luggage compartment was treated differently; the lower part of the sides was formed by welded doors from cars from a junkyard. For the manufacture of the upper part of the sides and roof, plywood was used, followed by sheathing on both sides with leatherette. The external dimensions of the body are as follows: length 4 meters, width 1.5 meters, height along the roof of the luggage compartment 1.3 meters.

I initially designed the homemade SUV with buoyancy. The problem of providing thermal insulation and buoyancy was solved very simply; all the existing voids in the cabin elements, as well as in the sides of the body, were filled with pieces of foam plastic adjusted to the shape. There are enough cavities both in the cabin and on the sides, so buoyancy was provided with a reserve. Speaking of insulation, at one time they never got around to making normal heating of the interior, so heating is only possible by air flow from the engine, and this is where the insulation between the walls of the body and the cabin played its role. Even in frosty weather, the car is warm enough. Perhaps the fact that the car only has one door also played a role. It is located on the rear wall of the body and opens upward. When open, the door is held by two springs from the front fork of the MMVZ motorcycle. Door dimensions 990x655mm. The doorway is equipped with a weather seal, and the door itself has a small window.

The cabin provides seats only for the driver and passenger, leaving behind them a free space measuring 1.7 by 1.35 meters. In such a space, two lying people or a load of the appropriate size can be accommodated without any problems. The side windows of the body are equipped with sliding vents, the windshield is from the same donor as half of the body. Future plans include an idea to make a sunroof to provide better ventilation. In addition, it can be used as an emergency exit.

Perhaps someone will find such a body structure rather strange (due to the fact that there is only one door), but I was guided, first of all, by the requirements for the rigidity of the entire car as a whole. After all, the more doorways there are in the body, the less rigidity and strength it has. Is not it? And when operating a car in extreme conditions, body rigidity is, in my opinion, one of the most important requirements for a car. Tightness is also important - quite often you have to wade through bodies of water. Of course, my car did not turn out to be like an all-terrain vehicle, but I am satisfied with the level of buoyancy and cross-country ability.

Mechanical part

The engine compartment, located above the frame, contains an engine from the same Zaporozhets, which served as the source for the body of the all-terrain vehicle. True, to work in new conditions it was necessary to turn it “backwards”. Torque from the engine is transmitted to the Zhiguli gearbox. In order to install it, we had to make an adapter that simultaneously acts as a clutch casing and has holes for attaching to the engine and gearbox.

All-terrain vehicle transmission diagram

The mechanism of the homemade transfer case is made on the basis of a differential from the Zhiguli rear axle. To do this, it was necessary to grind the differential housing in order to install a glass with a toothed rim on it. Initially there was no crown on this glass; I had to cut the teeth myself. Tooth modulus 3.5. For such a module we had to order gears for the rest of the transfer case filling. The collar at the end of the cup is designed to attach the ring of the gear, which is pressed onto the differential housing. All these parts are screwed together with screws, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the standard screws, but the length is slightly longer. The box body is welded from metal 4–6 mm thick. There are no special holes for changing the oil; for these purposes I use the upper and lower holes for the cover mounting bolts.

The engine, gearbox and transfer case, as well as the gearboxes of the front and rear axles, are located along the axis of symmetry of the car. The gas tank (I don’t know why), holding 35 liters, found its place in the rear of the car under the bottom.

Chassis

All steering components were used from Zhiguli (the steering wheel was taken from ZAZ).

The front and rear suspension of the car are independent, spring with shock absorbers. The rear wheels are suspended on trailing arms in a traditional manner. The front suspension with wishbones is a little more complex, the design includes a transverse spring for reinforcement. The spring is made up of three “Moskvich” sheets. The front and rear wheel drives are identical in design.

Chassis

Cuff with dust cover

The entire design and layout of the all-terrain vehicle was initially thought out as an option with replaceable wheels. It must be said that changing wheels is very useful when operating a car in different seasons. For example, in the summer the car behaves excellently on modified UAZ wheels, and in the cold season it changes to shoes homemade pneumatics low pressure, and feels great on ice and snow. Modification of the UAZ wheels came down to cutting out a section of the disk and welding a homemade seat with holes. To install homemade wheels for the winter, the wings are made removable (otherwise they interfere with large diameter wheels).

After replacing one type of wheel with another, the vehicle’s dimensions and ground clearance change accordingly. The difference is 130 millimeters. So, on pneumatics the ground clearance is 500 mm.

Conclusion

Overall, I was pleased with the car, there were no serious complaints. The assembled pneumatic all-terrain vehicle fully met my expectations and efforts to manufacture it. The only inconvenience, in my opinion, is the need to recalculate the speedometer readings when driving on pneumatic tires (multiply by 1.5). By the way, with pneumatics in low gear, the car easily accelerates to 60 kilometers per hour.

A homemade pneumatic vehicle made by craftsman Ivan Stepchenko from Sumy.

The pneumatic vehicle is made from a motorcycle MT Dnepr -11, and various scrap metal. The main pleasure for me is the design process itself and the anticipation of the result.

The engine, gearbox, axle and everything connected with it were taken from the motorcycle. The rear axle is a homemade bridge from the Volga, which is slightly lightened and expanded.

The differential is open and has a driven sprocket instead of a bevel gear. In place of the rear wheel of the motorcycle, only a hub remained with a brake drum to which the drive sprocket was attached. Replacing these two sprockets allows you to change the gear ratio.
Wheels with a diameter of 1200 mm, width 500 mm. Such fairly large wheels are the main advantage of the all-terrain vehicle; they provide excellent maneuverability.

Wheels taken from UAZ, lightweight. The wheels themselves are made from inner tubes from a tractor trailer with protection from the same cut inner tube and a shell made of durable reinforced PVC and rubberized clamps. Wheel pressure 0.2 atm.
The seats are designed for 4 people. The 55A battery is under the seat, there is also a glove compartment.

Since the motorcycle engine operates under difficult conditions, it overheats and often has to be stopped. I decided to do forced cooling.

There was a cooling system fan from a VAZ 2106 available, so I decided to install it. There is no room in front of the engine, so I installed it underneath the sump. I made a deflector from an aluminum sheet. The first tests confirmed the correctness of the solution; with forced cooling, the engine operates much more stable.

Let me summarize: the all-terrain vehicle is very huge, the visibility is excellent, the clearance is huge, and the cross-country ability is excellent for such a configuration. The disadvantages are large weight and dimensions.

Video: homemade pneumatic runner on low-pressure tires.

Car enthusiasts have probably come across serial or home-made vehicles with huge wheels installed. Such wheels are produced mainly on special orders. Are called similar designs low pressure tires or abbreviated as SND. Such tires are quite widely used on military vehicles, fishermen, travelers, hunters, agricultural and geological exploration equipment.

The name itself immediately defines the main distinctive feature of these tires - wheels of this type have low pressure, so in appearance they resemble the cushions on which the car moves. SNDs exert little pressure on the coating, resulting in an optimal effect for off-road driving. Despite the reduced pressure on the ground surface, the degree of traction still remains high, which allows you to confidently move through rough terrain, swamps and mud.

Numerous studies have shown that low-pressure tires are 20% more efficient than standard tires.

SND have several distinctive features:

• Due to their special design, these tires have an increased area of ​​contact with the surface, thanks to which cars on such tires can overcome almost any obstacle.
• The low specific pressure makes it possible to use such tires on agricultural machinery, since when cultivating the soil it is necessary to ensure minimal loads on the ground. For the same reason, SNDs are used on a variety of.
• Driving a car equipped with such wheels requires special skills. It is recommended to drive on hard surfaces as little as possible, and to take turns smoothly, since the side surfaces of the SND are their most weakness, very unstable to.

Depending on the design architecture and functional characteristics, several types are distinguished:

The cost of low-pressure tires is several times higher than the cost of regular tires. If we take into account the fact that they need to be manufactured for specialized purposes, then prices can reach half the cost of the vehicle. That is why most often extreme car enthusiasts make such tires on their own.

Homemade wheels and tires

First of all, you need to select the source material on which such tires will be made. It is best if the basis of the design is tires from aircraft - they are made of high-strength rubber and the most best quality. Tires from agricultural machinery or industrial all-terrain vehicles are also suitable.

Each bus consists of several interconnected elements. To manufacture the SND, it is necessary to remove excess rubber from the tread and side surfaces, and remove the seat cores from the inner part. If necessary, you can even remove the rubberized part of the cord base, but this is quite difficult to do without affecting the nearby layer. So, the main task is to lighten the tires and make them such that they will allow the car to move on difficult areas terrain and weak-bearing soils.

The manufacturing procedure includes several stages:

1. We clean, wash and dry the workpiece. We mark the patterns of the new one (places of cuts) with a marker.
   
   
2. We cut through the rubber along the inner perimeter of the circle to rip out all the excess wire.
   
   
3. After this, we cut out small “windows”.
   
   
4. Through the holes we see a wire, which we pry up using available tools.
   
   
5. We fix the tire and hook the wire to the winch.
   
   
6. Using a winch we pull out all the wire.
   
   
7. We trim the perimeter of the circle just below the cord and fix it with pliers.
   
   
8. We tear off the excess rubber using a winch.
   
   
9. We cut the pulled piece of rubber using a knife.
   
   
10. We remove the bulk of the material from the surface of the tire (treads and sidewalls), layer by layer, until the tire is represented exclusively by the original carcass.
    
    
11. We clean the surfaces with sandpaper.
    
    
12. We assemble the frame. We weld metal tubes (plates) to the disk and weld them together using similar tubes of the appropriate size.
    
    
13. We carefully polish the resulting workpiece so that the wheel chamber is not damaged by sharp fragments left after welding.
    
    
14. Pull the tube onto the rim and inflate the tire. As a result, we obtain a ready-made wheel design that can be used for predetermined purposes.
    
    
15. The time has come to “put” the resulting wheels on the vehicle and test it on the move.

Video: DIY low-pressure tires

This video describes the tire stripping technology and the machine for this procedure.

Homemade products and Syrians on unusual wheels

Examples of factory vehicles and products produced by folk craftsmen, in the design of which SND are used.

As you can see, swamp walkers, caracats and ATVs cannot do without SNDs, the special design of which allows them to easily move along swampy or snowy surfaces. ATVs and cross-country motorcycles also often have similar tires installed. Thanks to them, all-terrain vehicles can traverse rough terrain faster and more efficiently.

Walk-behind tractors are the favorite technical devices of many farmers, so it is not surprising that with the use of design imagination, you can transform the unit and create on its basis an all-terrain vehicle, a caravan, a snowmobile, a pneumatic vehicle, an ATV and a swamp vehicle. Today we will look at ways to expand the functionality of the device without special financial costs and contacting specialists.

We create an all-terrain vehicle from a walk-behind tractor with our own hands

It is worth noting that the very concept of “all-terrain vehicle” implies a vehicle with high cross-country ability. Important fact: All-terrain vehicle, carakat and pneumatic vehicle, swamp vehicle are synonyms, differing only in a few minor modifications. If a person manages to create a homemade mini-all-terrain vehicle, he will receive a real masterpiece that will become his pride.

Before starting construction work, it is necessary to decide whether the device will be on tracks or on pneumatic wheels. An important point: creating a tracked unit is much more difficult, and operating it requires special knowledge and physical effort. You should also prepare a powerful engine for installation. It doesn’t matter what it will be, diesel or gasoline, the main thing is that the part is powerful and equipped with forced water or air cooling.

The working process

1. First you need to choose a base for the structure. A frame from an old URAL or IZH motorcycle can be used. Thanks to these options, the car will be more maneuverable and will be able to easily overcome any obstacles;
2. The next step consists of creating the suspension and rear axle. The independent rear and front suspensions are connected using a strut, steering bushing and mowing;
3. Wheels for installation should be taken from powerful trucks. Excellent, but not mandatory, options would be chambers with low pressure (from KamAZ and URAL cars). Having made the right choice, the driver can be confident in his own safety and enjoy easy control;
4. Installing a motor is one of the most serious steps in creating an all-terrain vehicle based on a walk-behind tractor. Finally, the owner must securely attach the engine, clutches, brakes and exhaust system.

Only after a thorough check of the newly-made off-road vehicle can you begin testing and further operation.

Karakat from a walk-behind tractor: specifics

In fact, the carakat performs almost the same tasks as an all-terrain vehicle, but its peculiarity is manifested in large wheels, tightened with strong belts. At first glance, such a device may seem rather bulky and clumsy, but in fact, this vehicle can be easily operated on terrible roads at speeds of up to 70 km/h.

How to create powerful wheels yourself?

There are 4 ways:

1. The first method is relatively simple: 2 disks from sheet metal, which are attached to the bushing. Afterwards, the camera is put on, secured with pieces of a special conveyor belt;
2. The second involves securing one disk to the sleeve and attaching a jumper. Then the side rings must be welded to them;
3. The third option is very similar to the second, only for the central disk a spoke made of pipe or sheet metal is used;
4. The fourth principle involves mounting two disks on a hub, which are very similar to the wheel disks of a scooter.

Thanks to the strong suspension, which can be welded without problems steel pipes and connected with hinges, the caracat can withstand incredibly heavy loads. It’s just a little more difficult to control such a unit, since the design is often based on a conventional worm gear.

To competently make a karakat from a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, you can use the tips discussed above regarding the all-terrain vehicle and familiarize yourself with the drawings on our website.

Craftsmen who understand the mechanical and structural features of walk-behind tractors will not find it difficult to create a truly high-quality karakat, which will become a real assistant for fishing trips, mushroom hunting, hunting, etc.

Features of creating a homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

Many craftsmen know that such an agricultural machine as a walk-behind tractor can easily be transformed into a snowmobile, allowing you to successfully move off-road even on the snowiest days. Moreover, the remodeling process itself is quite simple and uncomplicated.

The main thing is to choose the right engine. Experienced owners of such “helpers” advise giving preference to a device that has manual control and a towing device. In most cases, a class of walk-behind tractors is used, the design of which involves the use of a 4-stroke, 1-cylinder gasoline engine with air cooling.

Before you begin the process of working on your future snowmobile, you need to prepare:

• powerful wheels (or tracks with snow hooks);
• frame;
• power unit;
• drive unit;
• runners;
• shock absorbers;
• steering column.

Some parts you can create yourself, and some you can purchase. For example, the frame is suitable from an old motorcycle, and the longitudinal pipes of frames from old bicycles should be used as rotating ski racks.

How to make a snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor: step-by-step instructions

• To begin with, an engine from a walk-behind tractor is installed on the caterpillar drive;
• Then two rods are attached to it, joining the cross beam (where the handlebars and skis are already attached);
• The front pillar and seat are mounted in the space between the two rods;
• Now the caterpillar mover needs to be attached to the specified transverse beam;
• All other parts should be attached using pins and bolts.

The result should be an excellent motorized vehicle that can transport a person (and a small load) in difficult weather conditions.

Let's get acquainted with the pneumatic walker from a walk-behind tractor and the swamp walker from a walk-behind tractor

As mentioned earlier, the pneumatic vehicle and the swamp vehicle are slightly modified analogues of the all-terrain vehicle and the carakat. The first option is considered a simple mobile vehicle, which appeared in the 60s and in modern modifications is supplemented with 3-6 wheels for better maneuverability.

A special feature of both the pneumatic walker based on a walk-behind tractor and the swamp walker is the operation of special low-pressure wheels. The fact is that in this case the tires are light in weight, elastic and exert little pressure on the ground. Along with a large rolling radius, the device is characterized by maneuverability and endurance.

A pneumatic fracture vehicle and a swamp vehicle are created using a similar scheme as an all-terrain vehicle, so many experts often use the three terms in the same context. On our website, anyone can find a video with the practical use of the devices and evaluate their similarity with the specified modification options.

Learning to create an ATV from a walk-behind tractor

It’s interesting whether the designers of walk-behind tractors could imagine what craftsmen will their offspring be transformed? Hardly! Moreover, the masters are not going to stop there, and a clear proof of this is the ATV created on the basis of a walk-behind tractor.

It differs from a standard motorcycle in the presence of four wheels, allowing you to easily drive through the most mountainous areas. The ATV is also known for its relative safety, because if it gets into a hole on the road, it is much easier to fly out of a two-wheeled motorcycle than from a four-wheeled one.

General stages of transforming a walk-behind tractor into an ATV

• Wheelbase extension;
• Proper arrangement of the frame;
• Installation of suitable wheels.

Detailed stages of transformation

• To begin with, you need to spread the wheels using special bets that are ground on lathe or purchased in a store;
• Then you need to take care of creating the frame. These parts are often “borrowed” from a bicycle or motorcycle, but the possibility of welding them from classic water pipes is not excluded;
• Now you should attach this same frame to the walk-behind tractor at the swivel joint, using two pins;
• Afterwards you need to deal with the wheels. Naturally, as the best option car rims for rubber (low profile) are considered. They are distinguished by a fairly wide stock and an excellent rubber chamber that will fit perfectly to them;
• Cameras should be selected from trucks, then there will be no doubt about the practicality and endurance of the device.

Thanks to this simple modification method, you can get an excellent ATV that does not need a well-trodden road and is not afraid of sharp turns and slopes.

In total, it can be noted that if you have additional tools, materials, drawings, video tutorials and other things, the walk-behind tractor can be completely retrained and “breathe new life into it”!

Among amateur designers of all-terrain vehicles, low-pressure wheels of their own production are very popular. The beginning of the history of the use of this type of propulsion by enthusiasts of homemade all-terrain vehicles can be considered the mid-sixties of the last century.

It was then that the first timid attempts were made to master the production of wheeled vehicles capable of moving with equal success through wetlands and virgin snow. All these machines were equipped with low-pressure pneumatics, and became the ancestors of today's homemade products.

Distinctive features of low pressure wheels

Why did designers like this type of tire so much? The pneumatic has low weight, very high elasticity and pressure on the ground within small limits. All these characteristics, coupled with a large rolling radius, give the all-terrain vehicle amazing maneuverability along with efficiency.

Factory LP wheels

A decent volume of chambers gives the design with such a propulsion sufficient buoyancy. This can be called an additional bonus to the vehicle's cross-country ability. In addition, by filling the inner space of the disk with foam, you can give the all-terrain vehicle additional stability on the water and at the same time reduce the sticking of snow or dirt on the inner surfaces of the wheel.

The simple design of these chassis elements and the absence of problems with finding materials for their manufacture allows you to make a pneumatic passage with your own hands without any special material and labor costs. This made machines built according to this principle very popular among home-made people.

Of course, such designs also have their drawbacks, in particular the short service life of the cameras, but they are overcome by introducing additional elements into the design.

DIY low pressure tires

Like any wheel, a low-pressure pneumatic is structurally composed of a hub, a solid or split disk (or spokes) and a tire. Let's look at some types of homemade wheels and how to make them.

Most simple design has a pneumatic with two discs. According to pre-made calculations, the hub is machined (if it is a driving element, then with a seat for the axle, if the wheel is not a driving element, then seat under bearings). Flanges for mounting disks are also machined on the hub. Next, you need to cut two disks from sheet metal. Hobbyists often use thin sheet steel (1 - 3 mm), or aluminum-based alloys (D16-T, AMG) and the like.

Example of fastening a low pressure wheel disc

After securing the disks to the hub, they should be connected to each other with metal strips curved in diameter cross section cameras. The number of such strips is usually made at least 12. Connecting strips are made of the same material as the disks. All connections of the propulsion parts are made either by rivets or bolts with locking elements.

After assembling the base, the camera is put on it and secured to the rim (disc) with canvas straps using hooks or screws. Instead of canvas belts, some “homemade” ones use strips of thin conveyor belt. When the tire is inflated, the inner tube protrudes somewhat into the spaces between the fastening belts, thereby forming a kind of lug.

Since the “bare” camera is susceptible to damage from sharp ice, stones and other obstacles, the following measure to increase survivability is common: homemade low-pressure wheels are put on lightweight tires.

Homemade tire

To do this, use either a cut chamber of the same size as the main cylinder, or use lightweight standard tires from various equipment.

An example of making a lightweight tire using the method of A. Koksharov from Karelia

In his technique, the author uses the principle of cutting excess layers of rubber on a tire (using a grinder with a homemade limiter) and removing them. Along the way, he cuts a new tread pattern, the one he needs. According to him, almost all tires produced by the domestic industry can be converted.