How to build long-burning stoves with your own hands? How to make a long-burning stove with your own hands? DIY solid fuel stove.

When the budget allows, you can purchase a long-burning stove manufactured at the enterprise. This option has an elegant look and can last a very long time. In addition, the unit is absolutely safe to operate. However, not everyone can afford such a purchase. And then the question arises about making such a stove yourself. It is also called pyrolysis. The creation process is relatively complex and requires strict adherence to all the necessary technologies and algorithms. First you need to thoroughly study how this device functions. You must have experience with metalworking and other turning skills.

Main characteristics and advantages of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves, created independently, can operate on the following types of solid fuel:

  • firewood;
  • coal;
  • sawdust.

The cost of fuel cells is low. For this reason they have become very widespread. The long-burning wood-burning stove has gained great popularity among home owners. It is created at home, called “bubafoneya”.

What is a long burning stove?

There may be slight differences in the designs of long-burning stoves. But the principle of their operation is similar - this is the generation of thermal energy during pyrolysis (not using the open flame method), when the wood is exposed to an impressive temperature with a limited amount of oxygen. And the fuel smolders, forming hot gas. It contains:

Pros and cons of long-burning stoves

The use of long-burning stoves operating on solid fuel in the heating system of premises helps eliminate almost all the shortcomings inherent in standard designs using similar fuel:

  1. Pyrolysis units are characterized by higher efficiency when compared with classical modifications.
  2. Long-burning stoves do not need to be constantly loaded with wood or coal.
  3. The operation of the pyrolysis system can be automated.

A small caveat needs to be made regarding this last benefit. When a homemade heat-generating apparatus is used, there is usually no need for automation, since even one load of fuel cells guarantees uninterrupted operation for 20 hours.

Design features of pyrolysis furnaces

Combustion in a pyrolysis furnace is characterized by low dynamics and high efficiency. It is provided by air supply using a regulator. When the fuel cells ignite thoroughly (approximately 20 minutes after loading), you need to close the air supply hole. This minimizes the passage of oxygen.

The main contribution to heat generation in a pyrolysis furnace is made by flue gases, which are located in a special sealed compartment

The fuel smolders and is almost completely converted to gas. And the flue gases are concentrated in the ignition compartment. When they burn out, a lot of heat is generated. If you try to implement this method of combustion in a conventional stove, directing its operation to smoldering mode, you can cause serious damage to your own safety. In the best case, the gases will rush into the chimney. At worst, they will end up indoors, bypassing doors with weak seals.

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands

Before starting installation and assembly work, it is necessary to correctly calculate the operating mode of the furnace and its design, and then prepare all the necessary materials and tools. We will consider the furnace manufacturing process step by step, starting with the creation of a detailed diagram of the heating unit.

Calculation of furnace parameters according to drawings

To make a preliminary assessment of the upcoming scope of work and the configuration of the main elements of the pyrolysis furnace, it is necessary to study the general diagram of its structure.

For reference, we present a table of the dependence of the main parameters of the furnace on the diameter of its base

Table: thickness of the workpiece and height of the duct ribs for different diameters of the furnace base

Inner diameter
furnace cylinder (D), mm
Workpiece thickness
pancake (q), mm
Ribs height
air ducts (H), mm
300 8÷1040
400 6÷850
600 4÷660
800 2.5÷480

When the diameter of the cylinder does not fit the values ​​​​indicated in the table, the thickness is calculated by proportions, focusing on the standard of the metal sheet (its thickness).

The air channels must be made rounded and arranged in a spiral. This will ensure optimal movement of flue gases.

Required tools and materials

A very important stage of preparation is the selection of necessary materials and tools. The key component is a cast iron barrel with a capacity of 200 liters. You can also work with a steel barrel. The main thing is that it has no defects or rust. If there is no suitable barrel available, you can use:

  • element of a very thick pipe;
  • sheet steel;
  • massive fire extinguisher;
  • unused gas cylinder.

The main requirement is wall thickness. It determines the service life of the furnace.

Other materials:

  1. Metal products for making legs. Fittings, elements of small-sized pipes or channels are suitable.
  2. Steel 5 mm thick. You need two circles that have the same diameter as the barrel.
  3. Ready-made or self-made door.
  4. The pipe is 10 cm in diameter and 15 cm long longer than the barrel itself.
  5. A pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of approximately 5 m. It is necessary for the chimney.

Tools:

  1. Bulgarian. Instead, you can use autogen.
  2. Ax and hammer.
  3. Measuring instruments: level, plumb line, tape measure.

Selection of installation location

After installing the stove, they make a reflector, but plan this before measuring and welding. It helps to optimally direct heat flows so that the room is heated evenly. In addition, the reflector seriously increases the level of safety during the heating process.

The area intended for installation of the furnace must not violate any of the fire safety criteria, since the hot furnace body is a potential source of fire. And this is what it becomes when the user violates the operating rules of this unit by incorrectly calculating the amount of sawdust or firewood.

The oven should not be placed near walls or any flammable objects. Sufficient space should be maintained around it. For example, the distance to wooden walls cannot be less than 25 cm.

Even before the assembly process, it is necessary to select a workspace. All stages of production will take place there. The following criteria apply to the premises:

  • availability of power supply;
  • availability of the necessary space;
  • powerful sound insulation;
  • protection from precipitation;
  • ability to store workpieces.

Soundproofing is needed in order not to cause discomfort to neighbors. After all, the work turns out to be quite noisy. You can do without this insulation when the work area is located far from residential buildings.

Step-by-step instructions for self-assembly of a long-burning stove

The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. Let’s assume that we use what is available in private garages or workshops. These are old gas cylinders. They are prepared for work as follows: the upper side of the structure is carefully cut off. The formed element will become the basis. For cutting, a grinder or autogen is used here.

    The top part of the gas cylinder is cut off and a window is made for loading firewood.

  2. After cutting the top side, a side hole is made in the cylinder body. It is needed to load fuel into the furnace during its operation. Based on the parameters of the hole, you need to make a door and then put it in place. The door should close this hole very tightly.
  3. Below the marked hole, another smaller one is made. Ash will be removed through this compartment. It also functions as a blower.
  4. When the cylinder is ready, the next stage begins: preparation of the starting material. Here we take a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a metal sheet. A circle of slightly smaller diameter than the balloon is prepared from it. A hole is created in its center for the working pipe. The circle is put on it and welded.

    A pipe is welded onto a circle slightly smaller in diameter than the cylinder and a lid is obtained with which to cover the burning firewood

  5. 2-3 channels are welded onto the lower side of the circle. Their role is to increase the mass of the lid.
  6. Then the circle is lowered into the prepared (cut) gas cylinder. After this, holes for the pipe are created in the lid. After which the cover is placed in its position and welded.

Video: do-it-yourself bubafonya from a gas cylinder

Features of manufacturing a sheet metal stove

Let's consider working with a sheet metal base. In his work, the master must precisely:

  1. Calculate the parameters of all structural components.
  2. Mark sheet material.
  3. Process all elements of the device.
  4. Carry out welding operations.

Required conditions:


Modernization of the furnace, increasing efficiency

There are three main ways to increase the efficiency of a stove: one of them is related to the chimney, the second is related to the fuel, and the third is related to operating conditions.

Chimney design optimization

For the chimney, as already noted, a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of 5 m is used. If you install a smaller pipe, especially in diameter, then it will not cope with the resulting loads. And the furnace itself will operate with reduced efficiency. To adjust the draft, a valve is installed in the pipe. A door is created at the bottom of the chimney for easy cleaning.

Condensation forms and accumulates in any pipes. And in pipes during pyrolysis it turns out even more, since the gases, having parted with all their heat, have negative temperatures at the outlet. This trend becomes the reason for high-quality insulation of pipes. The sandwich technology copes with this task perfectly. Its essence: a second one is introduced into one pipe, and a thermal protection layer is made between them.

You can also make a sandwich pipe with your own hands by wrapping the chimney with insulating material and protecting the structure with an external pipe

In areas where pipes pass through the roof, it is necessary to perform thermal insulation using a metal box filled with insulation. A deflector is placed on the head of the pipe. It prevents precipitation from entering the system and also protects against the effects of wind.

If the installation site for the stove is a fireplace, there is no need for a reflector. When the stove is located in a room, the surrounding masonry performs two functions:

  1. Protective screen for walls and things.
  2. Heat accumulator.

Since the body of the structure is metal, the oven quickly heats up and cools down. Cooling occurs immediately after the fuel burns out. Therefore, a brick screen created on three sides of the stove accumulates heat and releases it over time. You can use corrugated sheets or a smooth metal sheet as a reflector.

What fuel is better to use in long-burning stoves

The efficiency of the furnace also depends on the fuel used. It is best to use dry logs. But since the stove is homemade, you can save on fuel. The device can even work on waste made from natural materials.

  • cones;
  • wood chips;
  • sawdust;
  • nutshell;
  • straw.

Coal gives a good combustion temperature. But its use is justified when the oven is made only of materials with a decent thickness. Otherwise, such a unit will quickly burn out. A table showing the specific heat transfer of various materials can serve as a guide.

Table: specific loading coefficient and specific heat transfer of various types of fuel

Operation of long-burning furnaces

At first glance, it may seem that to fire a pyrolysis furnace you just need to throw firewood into the combustion chamber. This is just a superficial impression. It is important to do the following:

  1. Remove the cover, take out the pressure circle and pipe. Place fuel on the bottom of the stove. The filling limit is the opening of the chimney pipe. Fuel elements are stacked as closely as possible to each other. Light small branches are thrown over them. And they are covered with a rag soaked in kerosene. You can also place paper.
  2. Then the pressure circle must be returned to its place, and the lid must be closed. When the unit flares up, you need to close the damper that conducts the air flow. And she will remain in this position for a long time.

When creating a chimney, be sure to provide convenient ways to clean it. It is best if the structure can be quickly disassembled. When a composite chimney pipe is made, its parts are connected so that the joints are located in the opposite direction compared to the moving gases.

Cleaning and repair of long-burning stoves

If the stove is used incorrectly, its performance may deteriorate and efficiency may decrease. Therefore, periodically check the device for cracks and other defects. It is especially important to study the areas around the perimeter of the combustion chamber door and stove. If serious cracks are found, the defective parts must be replaced. Small gaps can be filled with sealant.

All burnt and cracked parts of the stove must be replaced in a timely manner.

Video: long-burning stove - cleaning and checking

If you have a small house, a garage, or just need to efficiently heat a utility room, a long-burning stove is the best option. Having some experience working with metal and welding skills, such a device can be built in 1–2 days. If the result is successful, you will be able to save money and gain satisfaction from the process of making a useful thing with your own hands.

The problem of conservation and economical use of energy resources is currently very acute. City residents usually do not have many opportunities to save money, since all apartments are connected to a central heating system.

Long-burning wood stove in the country

Prices for housing and communal services for all apartments of equal size will be the same, so everyone finds themselves in the same conditions. Another thing is the private sector with an individual heating system. This is where you can be smart and have room for a creative approach to solving a problem. In this article we will learn that long-burning wood-burning stoves for summer cottages are one of the most optimal options for getting out of this situation.

Actually, the efficiency of our home heating will depend on two main factors:

  • Quality of insulation (thermal insulation) of the walls and windows of the building;
  • The efficiency with which our heating installation (furnace or boiler) uses fuel.

The purpose of this article is to introduce you to one of the types of economical and productive wood-burning stoves that allow you to ensure the most complete combustion of logs. These heating installations are called pyrolysis furnaces. Every year their popularity is increasing, so many are thinking about building such a heater with their own hands. How long-burning pyrolysis furnaces work, their internal structure, as well as instructions for self-assembly - you will learn all this by reading our article.

The main physical phenomenon, without which it is impossible to imagine the operation of any furnace, is the oxidation of various substances by oxygen contained in the air. Fire, tamed by our ancestors millions of years ago, has become so familiar today that we don’t even think about how combustion occurs, with which each of us has been familiar since childhood. The seemingly simple question “how does wood burn?”, in fact, requires a separate explanation. After all, without understanding the basics, we will not be able to understand how economical pyrolysis furnaces work and why they are so good and economical.

Actually, the formation of a flame occurs in several stages:

  1. First, the wood heats up and dries, releasing water vapor into the environment, which prevents fire from starting. This requires an external source of energy, which is usually flammable paper, kindling liquid, or a pile of small burning wood chips.
  2. Firewood, which from a chemical point of view is a complex organic structure, consists of three main elements: carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. When heated, wood disintegrates, and these components, in the form of various simple gaseous compounds, begin to be released into the surrounding space. The general name for all substances formed during fuel heating is pyrolysis gases, and for the process itself is pyrolysis.
  3. At the next stage, the wood decomposition products ignite and accelerate the pyrolysis of the remaining logs more and more, providing the fire with fresh fuel.
  4. In the end, the tree burns, leaving behind some of the coals that did not have time to react with the oxidizing agent.

Actually, the idea that made it possible to build long-burning furnaces is to ensure the most complete decomposition of fuel in such a way that after its use there is practically no unburned waste left. To do this, it was necessary to slow down the pyrolysis as much as possible so that the entire volume of firewood would gradually and completely disintegrate into pyrolysis gases.

Why are stoves called long-burning stoves?

A long-burning stove is quite easy to distinguish from a regular one. The fact is that the implementation of the idea of ​​high-quality and complete pyrolysis required the introduction of not one, but two combustion chambers into the stove design. In the first, the firewood slowly smolders, emitting a gas mixture of methane, hydrogen and other components. Smoldering is ensured by an artificially created lack of oxidizer supplied to the firebox. Further, entering the second chamber, the gaseous pyrolysis mixture begins to burn fully, providing heating to the room in which the boiler is installed. Often, the secondary firebox is also additionally blown with air using a special fan. This ensures the most complete oxidation and combustion of the entire volume of gases, and leads to a significant increase in the efficiency of the entire heating installation.

Pyrolysis ovens are often also equipped with a separate cooling circuit, which evenly distributes heat throughout all rooms in the house. Such a heating boiler copes well with even the most severe winter frosts, providing high-quality heating of the entire living space. An example of a block diagram revealing the internal structure of a pyrolysis stove with a water block can be seen in the figure below.

Advantages and disadvantages of pyrolysis furnaces

Nothing in this world is perfect, so even long-burning wood stoves are not without their drawbacks. The main ones are the following:

  • The price of modern high-tech long-burning pyrolysis furnaces with good efficiency indicators will be quite high. However, you can save a lot of money by designing a heating device yourself.
  • Pyrolysis boilers of industrial production often require additional uninterrupted power supply to their auxiliary units: air injection systems (combustion chamber pressurization), water heating circuit pumps, sensors, etc.
  • Long-burning stoves are more finicky in terms of moisture requirements for wood logs. Insufficiently dried firewood placed in the firebox of a pyrolysis boiler can easily go out, stopping the operation of the entire heating system.
  • Compared to gas (electric) boilers, boilers or water heaters, long-burning stoves are significantly larger in size and also require additional free space for storing firewood.
  • You will have to add fuel to the pyrolysis boiler manually; this operation cannot be fully automated 100%.
  • A more complex water circuit design compared to other types of heating installations. The fact is that too supercooled coolant, returning from the batteries to the boiler heat exchanger, can interrupt the smoldering of the wood and extinguish the firebox. To avoid such a situation, you have to install an additional pipe (the so-called “bypass”), which allows you to mix already heated water with cold water. Naturally, as the complexity of the heating circuit design increases, the total cost of the entire device also increases.

At first glance, the list of disadvantages of long-burning wood stoves seems very impressive. And many people have a logical question: why is this type of stove so popular and in such good demand? The answer is simple and obvious: all the disadvantages of a pyrolysis installation are more than compensated by the advantages that the owner of such a device receives:

  • Fuel energy is used almost 100%. All loaded firewood will burn to the ground, completely transferring its heat to the heated room. High-quality industrial-made long-burning stoves have fantastic efficiency indicators, up to 90 percent. For greater clarity, we provide a table below that compares the operating efficiency of different types of boilers.

  • Long-burning wood stoves are convenient and easy to maintain, and produce almost no waste. There is nothing left of the firewood except a handful of ash.
  • Environmental friendliness of the heating system. With full pyrolysis combustion, only water vapor and carbon dioxide are released into the atmosphere. During operation of a high-quality pyrolysis oven, you will not feel any extraneous unpleasant odors, compared to a conventional oven. This is explained by the fact that the source of such aromas are unburnt complex organic compounds. In a long-burning furnace, fuel oxidation occurs 100%, so it can easily be heated even with industrial waste.
  • One “filling” of logs is enough for 10-15 (and sometimes more) hours of continuous operation. No ordinary wood stove can burn for that long.
  • The heating system based on a pyrolysis boiler very quickly warms up the house and enters operating mode.
  • The power of a heating device using the pyrolysis effect can be easily and smoothly adjusted, just like a gas or electric one. Unlike conventional solid fuel installations, in a long-burning furnace the main heat is generated by gas burned in a separate chamber. Accordingly, by controlling the level of oxygen supply to the firebox, we can easily change the heat release of the entire system.

Choosing a long-burning stove for a summer residence

Actually, having decided to acquire a long-burning stove, the future user faces the question: which one is better to choose? If you are planning to make a pyrolysis boiler with your own hands, then the available options will be limited only by the materials you have, as well as your engineering ingenuity and imagination. We will tell you more about how to make a long-burning wood stove for a summer house later, but now let’s try to give some useful tips to those who decided not to bother and buy a ready-made heating system.

The main parameters that should be followed when selecting available boiler models are:

  • Limitations of the budget allocated for the purchase of a gas generator furnace.
  • The area of ​​the house that is to be heated using a pyrolysis unit. Depending on the characteristics and configuration, long-burning stoves can heat from 80 to 250 square meters of living space.
  • Operating time of the unit when fully loaded with fuel. There are three subcategories of gas generator boilers: with a minimum operating time (up to 4 hours), with an average heating period (up to 8 hours) and, in fact, long-burning furnaces (they burn at one gas station for more than 8 hours).
  • Other technical and functional characteristics of the device.
  • Appearance and design of the pyrolysis furnace. Functionality and efficiency are, of course, a priority, but do not forget that a gas generator boiler is also an element of the interior of the house. It is highly desirable that the heating installation fits harmoniously and naturally into the interior space of the room in which it is located.

A few words about the main characteristics according to which long-burning pyrolysis boilers are classified. Based on materials of manufacture, they are distinguished:


The first two are suitable for those who want to get the most compact device, and the last type will appeal to lovers of the classics. Such a brick stove can easily become a highlight in the interior of any home.

According to the method of loading firewood: manually or semi-automatically. The second type will cost more, but will reduce labor costs for boiler maintenance.

Pyrolysis plants can be equipped with various “add-on components”, so they should also be classified according to the presence of additional functional units. They can be a hob or a special transparent fireproof door that can turn an ordinary solid fuel heater into a full-fledged and aesthetic fireplace.

Naturally, you should understand that you will have to pay extra for any design and technological delights. It is for this reason that prices for long-burning gas generator stoves vary in a wide range from 10 to 100 thousand rubles and above.

Installation of a purchased gas generator furnace

Installation of a finished industrial gas generator boiler requires special attention, so we will devote a separate section of the article to this issue. Actually, the general connection diagram for a pyrolysis furnace with a water circuit looks something like this:

It should be noted that this is only one of many options for wiring the heating circuit. Different manufacturers may offer their own schemes, which will differ in some ways. Therefore, in each specific case, carefully study all technical documentation accompanying the device. As for this scheme, the so-called three-way valve deserves special attention: it is responsible for mixing hot water into cold water and preventing the stove from overcooling.

The cold water heating mechanism can be implemented differently. Below you can see two more possible connection diagrams for pellet pyrolysis boilers:

The combustion room in which they plan to place the boiler must meet certain requirements:

  • be spacious and have high ceilings. Preferably from eight square meters; area and with a ceiling height of two and a half meters;
  • have a special platform for installing the boiler;
  • the ceiling, like the walls themselves, must consist of a material resistant to temperature and fire;
  • the room must be equipped with at least one window opening;
  • the distance from the wall to the front of the boiler should be about two meters;
  • it is advisable to surround the boiler with an additional brick jacket;
  • the room must have a chimney and a ventilation system (exhaust).

In general terms, the boiler installation algorithm is as follows:

Preparing the furnace room. We remove everything unnecessary and prepare tools and materials for work.
Laying the foundation (installation of a concrete slab) for a gas generator boiler. Preparing the foundation for a purchased stove is not much different from that for a homemade stove; we will discuss this process in detail below. In general terms it consists of the following steps:

  • Pit preparation;

  • Waterproofing the foundation base;

  • Installation of formwork and reinforcing sheathing;

  • Pouring concrete;

  • Laying the stove base: 2 rows of fire-resistant bricks;

  • Installation of a thermal insulation layer and creation of a fire protection area.

Direct installation of the pyrolysis furnace on the foundation.

Connection to the heating system (piping the water circuit).

Installation of a chimney and exhaust ventilation system.

Switching on and setting up relays and boiler automation systems. Test run and testing of the system in action.

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands

We have figured out the main guidelines in choosing a ready-made long-burning stove for a summer house, and now let's find out how to make such a device at home yourself. In the next two sections of the article we will look at the manufacturing technology of both metal and brick pyrolysis boilers. It should be noted right away that you cannot do without minimal bricklaying skills, as well as the ability to work with a welding machine, so get down to business only if you are 100% confident in your abilities.

Pyrolysis oven from improvised means (barrel, cylinder, thick-walled pipe)

The easiest and cheapest way to assemble a gas generator stove is from an old cylinder or metal barrel. Such a device will not have a particularly attractive appearance, but it is quite suitable for heating a summer house, garage, utility room or greenhouse. In addition, this type of stove is very mobile and can easily be moved to any other place.

Materials and tools for work. Workplace requirements

The basis for our masterpiece of engineering fantasy can be:

Volumetric metal barrel. Ideally, it should hold at least two hundred liters, have no external damage or signs of corrosion. The metal must be thick enough and durable. It is advisable to choose barrels made of steel - this will have a positive effect on the durability of our heating device.

A used fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder that has outlived its useful life would also be a good housing for a gas generator furnace. Naturally, their dimensions should be comparable to the volume recommended above for the barrel.

The cylinder body is one of the most popular for making homemade stoves

In addition, the body of the future stove can be welded from scratch using sheet steel or cuttings of thick-walled pipes.
Once you have made your choice and decided on the body of the future stove, start looking for additional materials. Namely, support legs for the heating installation. The simplest solution would be to make supports from:

Fittings

Pieces of thin pipes

Metal profile scraps

In addition to all of the above, we will need:

  • Sheet steel from which we can cut a circle equal in diameter to the body of our furnace;
  • Pieces of metal profile for making a pressure piston;
  • Stove door, which you can order ready-made or make yourself;
  • Two metal pipes. One with a radius of about 5 centimeters and a height equal to the height of the stove body +15 centimeters from above, and the second with a radius of 7.5-8 centimeters and a length of about 5 m. The first will be useful in the manufacture of the pressure piston air duct, and from the second we will make a chimney.

Having obtained all the necessary materials, we begin to search for a suitable workplace to carry out all the necessary installation operations. The room in which we will assemble the stove must meet a number of requirements, namely:

  • Have good ventilation so that welding can be used in it;
  • Good lighting at any time of the day;
  • Have an uninterrupted power supply;
  • Have reliable noise and sound insulation. During the installation process you will have to use a grinder and welding, and insulation will allow you to disturb your neighbors to a lesser extent;
  • Be spacious enough so that we can safely store all the structural parts and tools there;
  • Be protected from any atmospheric influences that could lead to damage to the metal parts of the oven.

Instructions for assembling a homemade gas generator stove

The sequence of operations for installing a pyrolysis furnace will look like this:

We are preparing the body. It will be enough to simply remove the top cover from the barrel, but you will have to tinker a little with the cylinder or fire extinguisher. They need to cut off the top. This should be done using a grinder, evenly and carefully. The cut off part will later serve as the main cover of the structure. You should start sawing a cylinder or fire extinguisher only after you make sure that they are empty and pour water inside.

If sheet steel was chosen as the basis for the gas generator furnace, remember that square-shaped bodies have better stability than round ones.

Having prepared the body, we proceed to install the legs. They need to be welded to the bottom of our homemade heater in such a way that the entire structure stands level and stable on them. The correct installation of the legs can be checked using a plumb line or level. If you make a mistake with the length of any of them, just shorten them with a grinder.

Let's start making the pressing piston-feeder. We cut out a circle of sheet steel with a diameter slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the stove. If the stove is not round, then we select the dimensions of the piston so that it has a small gap with the inner surface of the housing and moves freely up and down.

In the center of the circle we cut a hole that is suitable for our air duct pipe. We connect the circle to the pipe by welding. After this, we check how the piston will move inside the barrel and how much the pipe protrudes from above the body. This height should be about 15 centimeters.

We attach pieces of metal profile to the bottom of the piston by welding. They will not allow smoldering firewood to “suffocate” and go out, and will also help improve the quality of pressing the logs to each other.

Let's start making the oven lid. If this is a barrel, then the old lid will serve as it. Well, in the case of a cylinder and a fire extinguisher, the previously sawed off upper part will come to the rescue. It is necessary to cut a hole in the lid for the air duct, and it is also advisable to weld handles to it, which will make it more convenient to remove it for loading firewood. Remember that the hole should not interfere with the movement of the duct: its pipe must slide freely up and down. Leave a small gap.

We fasten the door to remove ash. Using a grinder, we cut a hole according to the dimensions of the door, weld the hinges and install our hatch.

We attach the chimney pipe. The hole for it must be made with a grinder at the very top of the body of the gas generator boiler. We weld a section of the previously prepared pipe under the chimney, taking into account that its shortest length should exceed the diameter of the cylinder body.

It is also necessary to design control valves for the chimney and air duct. They will help you control the draft and operating time of the heater on one load of wood. Various condensate very actively collects in the chimney of a gas generator stove. Therefore, the pipe must be protected with heat-insulating materials, cleaned regularly, and a container must be installed at its base to collect the released condensate. In addition, it would not hurt to install a protective umbrella-reflector on the top of the pipe, which will prevent precipitation from getting inside it.

Video. How to make a pyrolysis oven from a gas cylinder

Rules for igniting a pyrolysis furnace

The process of lighting a gas generator furnace consists of the following steps:

First, you need to remove the internal feed piston by first removing the top cover of the device.

Next, we put firewood into the combustion chamber, pressing the logs tightly together. Remember that to light a pyrolysis stove you only need dry logs. Otherwise, it may go out at any time. The highest point for loading firewood should be considered the beginning of the exhaust pipe-chimney opening.

Throw a pile of wood chips on top of all the logs and cover them with a rag soaked in fire starter fluid. If there is no flammable liquid at hand, then the rags can be replaced with pieces of paper.

We put the piston with the air duct in place and close our gas generator stove with a lid. We light a piece of rag and throw it inside through the air duct. In this case, matches will not be able to help us, since they will go out as they fly through the pipe.
We give the fire about 20-30 minutes to burn up. Then we cover the chimney with a damper so that the wood stops burning and begins to smolder. From this moment on, the stove will enter its operating mode, and you will fully enjoy the warmth, comfort and coziness it gives.

Remember that when installing a long-burning gas generator stove in any room, you must strictly adhere to the rules for its use:

  • The body of the heater reaches significant temperatures, so keep away any items that may spontaneously combust or are heat sensitive.
  • Leave enough free space around the gas generator boiler. Furniture cannot be placed next to it, and the walls themselves can also be damaged under its influence. It is advisable to build a special protective jacket made of bricks around the stove. Brickwork will not only protect things around it, but will also help retain heat for a longer period.
  • When cleaning the firebox of a homemade stove, leave a certain layer of ash after each time. It will serve as a protective cushion and prevent rapid burning of the lower part of the gas generator boiler, which can lead to breakdown of the entire device.

Laying a brick pyrolysis furnace

A gas generator furnace can be assembled not only from metal parts, but also laid out using bricks. Before we begin to directly consider this issue, we will need to understand the meaning of some fundamental terms that characterize the qualities of materials for furnace work. Actually, there will be only 3 such concepts: heat resistance, heat resistance and fire resistance.

Heat resistance is the ability of a material to withstand heating to high temperatures and subsequent cooling. During such thermal changes, the substance must not change its structure, geometric shape and chemical composition. At the same time, over the entire range of operating temperatures, heat-resistant compounds must withstand the initial design physical loads and not collapse.

As for heat-resistant materials, their main advantage is the ability to maintain initial mechanical characteristics when heated or cooled. The coefficient of thermal expansion of such compounds practically tends to zero. Heat-resistant materials are the basis not only in the furnace industry, but also in the production of mechanisms and machines designed to work in extreme conditions.

Refractory are heat-resistant or heat-resistant substances that are resistant to aggressive chemical environments. In the stove business, they are used to construct chimneys, the inner surface of which is constantly exposed to gaseous combustion products, which often settle during cooling in the form of caustic condensate.

Materials and solutions used for laying various elements of the furnace

Since individual elements of the stove structure carry different functional loads, the brick (as well as the mortar) must be selected individually for each of them. Let's look at everything using the example of a classic wood-burning stove.

  1. The “pillow” (also called the “root”) of the stove is the basis of the foundation of the stove made of reinforced concrete. It is poured in such a way as to be mechanically independent from the foundation of the entire building. This condition must be met without fail, since the stove and the house differ in the rate of shrinkage. Filling is carried out in the usual way; there are no distinctive features in this process.
  2. A layer of waterproofing material. It can be constructed from ordinary roofing felt, folded in a couple of layers on top of the stove cushion.
  3. Furnace foundation. Its laying requires a careful and scrupulous approach. An error when assembling the foundation will lead to the fact that the entire structure will have to be rebuilt. Red solid brick - this part will not feel strong temperature effects. Kiln mixtures should be complex, cement-lime, with three or more components.
  4. Fireproof blind area with a heat-insulating layer. It is made from a mineral sheet of asbestos placed on top of a sheet of iron. The third, top layer, completes the structure with a felt cloth treated with clay impregnation (liquidly diluted clay, the so-called “clay milk”).
  5. The main part of the “body” of the stove, which performs the function of a heat exchanger. The operating temperature of this element very rarely exceeds the threshold of six hundred degrees Celsius, but it is constantly exposed to acrid smoke and the chemically aggressive compounds it contains that can settle in the form of acid condensate. Therefore, the brick for this part of the stove requires a specialized stove, red, solid ceramic type M. The mortar, in turn, is clay, one-component.
  6. Stove firebox. In a pyrolysis furnace, it will consist of several chambers, each of which is subjected to a very powerful thermal effect. The temperature inside the firebox can reach values ​​of up to one and a half thousand degrees. You need a special brick, the so-called fireclay, and you need a clay-fireclay mortar.
  7. The “source” of the chimney pipe. It must withstand the same impacts as the furnace heat exchanger, so the materials that need to be used for its laying are similar to those in point No. 5.
  8. The chimney fluff is a structural element designed to provide an elastic connection between the chimney and the ceiling, preventing its possible subsidence. The brick here needs a stove M150, and the mortar is lime.
  9. A fire separator is an iron box, inside of which there is a layer of non-flammable heat-insulating material.
  10. The main part of the chimney pipe. They lay it with ordinary red brick, since it is not subject to strong thermal or chemical influences. The solution is lime type.
  11. The chimney fluff, which completes the stove structure, is also made from the same materials.

Preparation of materials and tools for masonry

As it has already become clear to you from what you read above, for the stove masonry we will need to stock up on three types of bricks:

  • red solid - it will be used to make the foundation and part of the chimney
  • red ceramic stove M150 – for assembling the main part of the stove body
  • fireclay for laying combustion chambers

Further, we cannot make the foundation of the furnace without cement. Accordingly, it also needs to be purchased. In addition, we additionally buy roofing felt, sheet steel and various auxiliary stove accessories: doors for adjusting the air supply, a hatch for loading firewood, etc. The quantity and type of materials chosen will depend on the specific stove laying scheme that you choose for yourself. We will consider one of them in our article, but you should not limit your flight to your engineering imagination only within the framework of a single instruction.

As for stove solutions, you can easily prepare them yourself. This process is quite labor-intensive and takes some time, but it allows you to significantly save on materials and reduce the final cost of creating a brick pyrolysis furnace. This issue is discussed in more detail and with all the necessary instructions in the article. .

The tools we will need are:

  • Master OK
  • Roulette
  • Construction level and plumb line
  • Hammer
  • Containers for preparing furnace solutions and pouring foundations
  • Shovel
  • Sieves for sifting sand and straining clay

Making the foundation of a brick gas generator furnace

Long-burning stoves are distinguished by the fact that they must quickly heat up and switch to operating mode within a minimum period of time. For this reason, the foundation of a gas generator stove must be placed at least at a distance of 70 centimeters or more from the foundation of the building itself. In addition, it is advisable to fill the gap between both foundations with sand.

The process of creating a furnace base consists of the following steps:

We dig a hole for the foundation. It should exceed the dimensions of the oven by 10 centimeters in each direction. According to our specific order scheme, this is approximately 1.20 m by 85 cm. The depth of the hole should be 70 centimeters

We put a bitumen-based waterproofing layer on the bottom and sprinkle it with a layer of sand about 10 centimeters high.

On top of the sand we place a layer of broken brick or crushed stone, on top of which the base of the stove foundation will be located.

We build formwork from boards and a reinforcement frame, fill it all with concrete.

After waiting for the solution to dry, we place a layer of roofing felt waterproofing on the concrete base. Then we lay the foundation of the stove on top in two layers of solid red brick, checking the quality of the masonry with a level.

Oven with fire protection area

We complete the structure with a fire-resistant blind area and thermal insulation made of asbestos and steel sheets, covered on top with felt soaked in clay milk.

Basic rules for laying a pyrolysis furnace. Ordinal scheme

When starting to lay a gas generator furnace, remember that you must strictly adhere to the following rules:

  • Each of the furnace elements must be assembled from the appropriate type of brick that will withstand all temperature and chemical influences. We have already written about this above.
  • The laying should be carried out clearly according to the chosen order plan in order to avoid mistakes and the need to redo the work again.
  • After every 2-4 rows, be sure to check the quality of the masonry with a level or plumb line. You don’t want the oven to turn out crooked, do you?
  • In each row (as well as between rows), it is necessary to perform a complete dressing of the seams.
  • The width of the joints in homogeneous brickwork should be about three millimeters. At the junctions of fireclay and red bricks, the size of the seams must be increased to six millimeters. The same rule applies to connections between brick and steel elements.
  • Seats for various doors and valves should be made with a small margin, taking into account the possibility of thermal expansion of parts. Between the metal and the brick, it is imperative to place asbestos gaskets, or intermediate layers of special building mixtures based on sintering compounds. For example, you can use fireclay or silicone for fireplaces - these materials can withstand high heat and, at the same time, ensure the tightness of all connections of the body and stove fittings.

Finally, as an example, we will give you one of the possible row diagrams of long-burning furnaces. Naturally, before starting construction, you must definitely evaluate the dimensions of the room and the size of the space that you plan to allocate for the gas generator boiler. In accordance with these initial parameters, you should choose the scheme that suits you. It will be quite easy to estimate the size of the future heating installation, because the dimensions of one brick are standard and for a solid red brick they are 25x12x6.5 centimeters.

As an additional bonus, we also invite you to watch the video, which shows one of the possible options for making a brick pyrolysis oven yourself. The author demonstrates step by step each stage of stove laying, and also conducts a practical test of his device in action.

Video. Do-it-yourself long-burning brick oven

Solid fuel stoves running on wood have one serious drawback: it is very difficult to automate the combustion process, and for some designs it is impossible. From time to time you have to take a break from your work and add firewood, which burns out in about an hour. To extend the operating time of the furnace on one load, the furnaces are equipped with a long-burning mode.

Wood combustion is a complex physical and chemical process that occurs in several stages. When ignited, while the temperature in the stove is low, the wood heats up and darkens. At temperatures above 200 degrees, pyrolysis begins - decomposition under the influence of temperature into solid residues and pyrolysis gases. These gases themselves are flammable because they contain hydrogen, carbon monoxide, organic vapors and carbon in the form of soot. It is the combustion of pyrolysis gases that produces a bright flame with a high temperature.

In a conventional furnace, complete combustion of pyrolysis gases does not occur due to a lack of oxygen. In long-burning furnaces, a separate chamber or combustion chamber is intended for afterburning of pyrolysis gases, where they are enriched with atmospheric oxygen. Thanks to this, fuel is burned more completely, less soot and other harmful substances are released into the air, and the efficiency of the stove increases.

To avoid excessive temperature in the wood pre-combustion chamber, air access into it is limited. The firewood begins to smolder, releasing a large amount of pyrolysis gas. Due to the slow smoldering of firewood, the operating time of the stove on one load increases significantly, in some cases reaching 6-8 hours. This phenomenon is called the “long burning mode”.

Long-burning sawdust stove: video

Advantages and disadvantages of long-burning stoves

Like any other unit, such ovens have their pros and cons.

The undeniable advantages include:

  • economical consumption of firewood;
  • high efficiency, up to 85-90%;
  • versatility in the choice of fuel, firewood, waste from woodworking enterprises, sawdust, and pellets are suitable;
  • small sizes;
  • ease of control - using an air damper;
  • simplicity of design, thanks to which it is easy to make a long-burning stove with your own hands.

Long-burning stoves are not without their disadvantages:

  • during combustion, condensate is released, on which soot is actively deposited in the chimney, therefore special requirements are imposed on the chimney design - it should not have corners, bends, its design should be as accessible as possible for cleaning;
  • To switch to the long-burning mode, the stove must first be heated in the usual mode to warm up the stove itself and the chimney, otherwise the combustion process will stop.

All the described features of long-burning stoves are relevant both for industrial heating units and for home-made stoves.

You can increase efficiency by adding to the stove, as shown in the video.

Design of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves have design features. They consist of two chambers or combustion zones, in one of which pyrolysis of wood occurs, and in the other, afterburning of wood gases occurs. The location of the cameras relative to each other may be different.

In some models, fuel is loaded from above; as a result of primary smoldering, the firewood compacts and settles, and gases enter the afterburning chamber, which can be located either below or through a partition on the side of the first chamber. Such stoves are often equipped with blower fans to direct the draft into the desired channel.

In other models, the pre-combustion chamber is located at the bottom, and the pyrolysis gases rise into the upper chamber without forced draft. Such stoves do not require a fan, but their loading chamber volume is usually smaller.

To regulate the combustion intensity, an air supply channel with a damper is provided. It can also have different shapes and depends on the type of stove. To compact the fuel and make smoldering more intense, some stoves are equipped with a weight that lowers as the wood burns. Usually they have this design.

Application of pyrolysis furnaces

Long-burning stoves using wood, pellets or sawdust are often used to heat utility rooms and workshops, garages, and greenhouses. They can also be used to heat a house, but it is necessary to ensure that the stove is sealed, as carbon monoxide may be released.

If you use a pyrolysis stove to heat a garden or residential building, it is better to equip it with a water circuit connected to the heating radiators, and install the heating unit itself in the boiler room.

tells how to simply make a smokehouse for cold smoking, which at home will help you prepare real delicacies from the most ordinary products.
You can find out how to make a smoke generator for cold smoking by taking a look.
Here you will find the most understandable drawings for creating an effective potbelly stove with your own hands:

Materials for making a long-burning stove

Long-burning stoves can be made by hand from sheet metal or various metal structures. Examples and drawings of such stoves are given below.

Barrel stove

A home-made heating device intended for heating utility rooms, made from a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. The stove runs on sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste. Inside the large barrel, a small barrel for loading fuel is installed on a stand. Below it is an ash pan - a drawer made of sheet metal.

The stove itself is placed on a stand, the role of which is played by a car disk. A smoke pipe is made from pipe scraps with a diameter of 100-150 mm. The barrel is equipped with a sheet metal lid with a handle and an opening for air supply.

A log sharpened to a cone is installed inside a small barrel; it is indicated in the drawing. Sawdust is poured around it. After compaction, the log is removed and the sawdust is set on fire. During the smoldering process, gas is released into the space of a large barrel, where it is burned.

Furnace with water circuit made of metal pipe

A homemade long-burning stove made of a metal pipe, which can burn wood or sawdust, is equipped with a water circuit. Loading is done from below; to intensify combustion, an air distributor is installed inside the stove, pressing the smoldering wood.

A telescopic hollow pipe is installed in the center of the disk, through which air flows directly into the combustion chamber, where, thanks to the ribs welded onto the disk, it is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the firewood. It lowers on its own as the fuel burns out. You can lift it before loading using a cable.

The loading door is located in the center of the oven. At the bottom there is a cleaning door and an ash pan. At the top there is a chimney. The stove is equipped with a water circuit with pipes for water inlet and outlet. Such a stove with a water circuit can heat small houses and other premises quite efficiently, and you can make it with your own hands from scrap materials.

Furnace from a waste gas cylinder

A stove can be made from a gas cylinder without extra costs or searching for suitable material. The dimensions of the 50-liter cylinder are perfect for making such a stove, and the wall thickness and tightness make it safe to use.

The design of the furnace as a whole does not differ from the previous model, this can be seen in the drawing. A propane tank with a cut off top is used as a body. You can make a cover of suitable size with your own hands from sheet metal with a hole for the air distributor pipe.
Fuel is loaded through the top, filling the volume of the cylinder almost to the chimney. This stove operates on sawdust and other waste, as well as small firewood. The fuel is carefully compacted, ignited using wood chips or an ignition agent, an air distributor is installed, and then covered with a lid.

The efficiency of such a stove is quite high, and thanks to its sealed housing, it can be used to heat rooms where people stay for a long time. If desired, it can be equipped with a water circuit by passing the chimney through the boiler.

Stove "Bubafonya" from a gas cylinder

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands from a fifty-liter gas cylinder is presented in the video.

The design of the stove is as simple as possible; it consists of only a few parts: a body, a lid, an air distributor and a chimney. For stability, the stove can be placed on legs from the corner. To remove ash from below, you can make an ash pan with a door.

Another video.

Sequencing

  1. The remaining gas is released from the gas cylinder and washed several times with water.
  2. Cut off the top of the cylinder. You can use it to make a furnace lid by making a hole with a diameter of 65 mm in the center. The edges of the lid and the furnace body are ground so that the lid fits tightly onto the body.
  3. In the upper part of the cylinder, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made for the chimney and a piece of pipe 30-40 cm long is welded horizontally.
  4. At the bottom of the cylinder, a cleaning door is made for the ash pan. To do this, cut out a rectangular section of the cylinder body, grind the sections, weld the hinges and install the door on the resulting hole. The door is equipped with a latch.
  5. The balloon is placed on legs for stability. They can be made from a corner, pipe scraps or a wheel rim.
    For ease of carrying, rod handles are welded on the sides.
  6. The most important part of the furnace is the air distributor. It must be heavy enough to effectively press down sawdust and wood chips, withstand the high temperature of the oven, and also have diverging blades. They can be made from corner scraps. The distributor itself is made of thick-walled steel - at least 6 mm. Cut out a circle with a diameter 20-40 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the oven with a hole in the center. A pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and a height greater than the height of the stove is installed in the hole. Air will flow through it to the combustion chamber. The blades are welded at the bottom of the disk.
  7. You can paint the stove body yourself with paint based on organosilicon compounds, having previously removed scale, rust and dirt from its surface. Any other paint will quickly burn, since the stove heats up to high temperatures during operation.
The temperature of the walls of a gas cylinder stove can heat up to 350 degrees during combustion! To avoid serious burns, use caution!

The homemade sawdust stove “Bubafonya” can be equipped with a water circuit. In this case, it is installed in a permanent place. Typically, this stove is used as a mobile stove: it can be placed in a greenhouse during freezing periods, used to heat a workshop or barn in the winter, or used to heat a garage. Subject to fire safety requirements, Bubafonya is safe and effective.

During the cold period of the heating season, the issue of heating rooms becomes more relevant than ever.

Do-it-yourself bubafonya stove: diagram and drawing

And if in city apartments, as a rule, housing and communal services are responsible for this, then residents of the private sector have to deal with all the problems that arise on their own. For a conventional wood-burning stove, it is necessary to purchase a significant amount of logs, and this often takes a serious toll on consumers’ pockets.

In addition, some need to heat not only residential but also auxiliary premises, such as garages or greenhouses. Therefore, there is a natural desire to find a method for the most economical and efficient heating.

First, we need to understand how wood burning actually occurs. In order for wood to ignite, it must first be heated to a temperature of about one and a half hundred degrees from an external heat source. As a rule, this task is performed by setting paper or wood chips on fire with a match. The wood begins to slowly char and, when it reaches about 250 degrees, it decomposes into simple chemical components. The white smoke we see when lighting a fire is the gases and water vapor released by heated wood. And so, having crossed the level of three hundred degrees, the gaseous substances released from the tree ignite, further accelerating the thermochemical reaction.

The decomposition of organic fuel, such as wood, into simple elements is called pyrolysis. And everything would be fine, but ordinary wood combustion does not fully utilize the entire potential contained in the energy carrier. A lot of waste remains, which ultimately does not contribute to savings.

Pyrolysis furnaces, one of the options of which we will consider in this article, use fuel much more efficiently. The main secret is that the combustion of gases released when wood is heated occurs separately from the energy carrier itself. In this case, the primary fuel smolders slowly, which allows for much longer operating time on one stack of logs. In “bubafonya” type stoves and other pyrolysis heating devices, everything burns out almost 100%, leaving behind only a small amount of ash.

How combustion occurs

The history of the creation of the Bubafonya pyrolysis furnace

“Bubafonya” was first assembled by a folk craftsman named Afanasy Bubyakin, who lives in Kolyma. In fact, it was named in his honor. The master took the Stropuva pyrolysis boiler, made in Lithuania, as the basis for his product. Afanasy simplified the design as much as possible so that it could easily be repeated independently. That is why the homemade pyrolysis oven “Bubafonya” is famous for its fairly high popularity.

It should be noted right away that since a homemade heating device is made from readily available materials, it rarely has an attractive and aesthetic appearance. The main advantage of “bubafoni” is its simplicity, reliability and efficiency.

Below you can see an example of a homemade stove designed by Afanasy Bubyakin, made from an old gas cylinder.

Internal structure of the long-burning stove "Bubafonya"

  • The main element in the design of the “bubafoni” is its body. As a rule, it has a cylindrical shape: a cylinder, a large fire extinguisher, a barrel or a thick pipe with a welded bottom.
  • Chimney for removing waste combustion products. It is made, in most cases, from a metal pipe 11-25 centimeters in diameter, welded to the top of the body.
  • Feeder piston. It is a metal circle with ribs welded on the bottom, in the center of which an air duct pipe is fixed. The ribs allow you to create an additional air gap between the piston and the logs, which has a positive effect on the smoldering process and the activity of the release of pyrolysis gases.
  • A control valve that allows you to control the supply of oxidizer inside the furnace.
  • Cover with hole for air duct. Together with the piston, it forms a secondary combustion chamber, in which ignition of pyrolysis gases occurs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a pyrolysis oven

First of all, the positive qualities of this heating device should be noted:

  • "Bubafonya" has a very simple design. Owning a welding machine and basic skills in working with metal, anyone can easily and simply make a stove with their own hands.
  • The Bubafonya pyrolysis stove is not at all picky in terms of choosing a solid fuel energy carrier. It will burn properly on wood, coal, sawdust, wood chips and other waste from wood production. In addition, it can be loaded with pellets - inexpensive and environmentally friendly granular fuel.
  • Working hours. After one load of wood, a pyrolysis oven can operate continuously and heat the air in the room for up to 24 hours. This indicator, however, can vary significantly, depending on the volume of the chamber, the oxidizer supply rate and other parameters.

But you have to pay for everything, and therefore the simplicity of the internal structure of the Bubafonya stove leads to some disadvantages:

  • "Bubafonya" does not have high efficiency indicators. This is due to uneven heating of the cylinder body (barrel) and lower heat transfer. Pyrolysis furnaces of more complex and advanced designs, in turn, can boast excellent efficiency indicators, almost reaching a value of 90%.
  • “Bubafonya” is quite inconvenient to clean from combustion residues: the ash and ash have to be removed through the top. However, this homemade heater can be improved by welding a door at the bottom, which makes it easy to rake out all excess from the bottom of the oven.
  • Aesthetic unattractiveness. The design is quite rough in appearance and is unlikely to decorate the interior of the room in which it will be installed.

Making a stove yourself

The entire process of creating a homemade pyrolysis boiler “Bubafonya” can be divided into five main stages:

  1. Preparing the room, materials and tools for work
  2. Installation and assembly of the structure
  3. Chimney installation
  4. Laying the foundation for a pyrolysis furnace

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Drawing of the Bubafonya pyrolysis furnace. Calculation of basic proportions.

The fundamental proportion in the process of constructing a homemade pyrolysis furnace from a gas cylinder is the mathematical ratio of the internal diameter of the housing to its height. In the drawing, the diameter is indicated by the letter D, and the height by H. The ratio of H to D should be in the range from three to five to one. The diameter itself under optimal conditions will be about 30-80 centimeters. You should not choose a housing for a stove smaller than 30 centimeters, since the oxidizer will pass through the combustion chamber too quickly without fully reacting with the fuel. This will significantly reduce the efficiency of the device. A diameter of more than 80 centimeters is undesirable for another reason: in such a boiler, the wood at the edge burns very slowly, and in the center - faster. When the fuel burns out, a hole will form into which the piston will fall, which will lead to the extinction of the “bubafoni”.

Wall thicknessΔ is the second most important calculated value. For optimal heat transfer, a 4-5 mm steel housing is perfect. Smaller wall thickness will significantly reduce the service life of the heater and its operating time on one refill.

Dimensions of the piston pressing plate:

Gap With between the piston and the inner surface of the housing is optimally calculated to be 0.05*D. Accordingly, the diameter of the pancake itself will be calculated using the formula d =D-2*H

The height of the pressing ribs made of metal profiles is considered more difficult. Here the relationship between the parameter values ​​is nonlinear. Empirically, for furnace body diameters from 60 to 80 centimeters, we take this number equal to 0.1*D. For a smaller “bubafoni” we use the proportional equation, taking into account that when D 0 = 30 cm h 0 = 4 cm.

Example of calculation by proportion. The inner diameter of the cylinder is 40 cm. We calculate the required height of the channels as follows: h=D*h 0 /D 0 =4*40/30=5.3 cm

Pancake thicknessσ. This parameter is inversely proportional to the internal diameter of the “bubafoni” D. It is necessary that the piston presses on the fuel layer with optimal force. If the pressure is low, the furnace's blowback coefficient will decrease and there will be a risk of the boiler catching fire with subsequent smoke escaping through the air duct. A piston that is too heavy, in turn, will not leave enough air space for the firewood to smolder and the “bubafonya” will go out.

This value can be found using the table below. There are no special requirements for compliance with this parameter; it is enough to adhere to it at least approximately.

D σ
30 cmfrom 6 to 10 mm
40 cmfrom 6 to 8 mm
60 cmfrom 4 to 6 mm
80 cmfrom 2.5 to 4 mm

Calculation of the minimum required chimney area. The smallest permissible value of the pipe area S is calculated based on the maximum energy release of the fuel per hour. S(cm 2)=1.75*E(kW/hour). In this case, E=m*q where m is the mass of the loaded fuel, which can be found by multiplying the maximum volume of the load V=H f *(π*D 2 /4) by its density (we find out from the table below). Coefficient q, in turn, is the specific combustion energy of a unit volume of fuel per hour (we also take it from the reference table).

Calculation of air intake diameter

Preparing the room, materials and tools for work

Since assembling the “bubafoni” requires the use of a welding machine, not every room is suitable for our work. You definitely need high-quality ventilation, an uninterrupted supply of electricity and reliable wiring (welding work can cause overload in the circuit). In addition, installation may take more than one day, so the room must be protected from precipitation and be sufficiently spacious. Good soundproofing of the workplace is also important, since the noise from the grinder, welding and other tools is unlikely to please your neighbors.

Having chosen a suitable location for installation, we begin to prepare the materials.

  • The basis for the pyrolysis furnace will be an old gas cylinder. Instead, you can also use a large (about 200 liters) steel or cast iron barrel with strong walls without traces of corrosion, a large used fire extinguisher, or even a metal pipe with a welded bottom made of a steel circle.
  • Next we will need blanks for the supporting “legs”. In principle, you can try to do without them, but a “bubafonya” on legs will be much more stable, it is more difficult to accidentally turn it over with an awkward movement. Supports can be made from metal profiles, reinforcement and even sections of steel tubes.
Various options for homemade stove legs


  • We can also create “handles” for more convenient carrying of a homemade stove from scraps of fittings. Also, they will not be superfluous on the lid of the “bubafoni”: this will greatly simplify the process of loading firewood and cleaning the boiler from ash.

Auxiliary materials for creating “bubafoni” will be:

  • Sheet steel for making a piston;
  • Two metal pipes for the chimney and air duct. The optimal diameter of the air supply pipe is about 85-100 mm, and its length should be approximately 150 mm greater than the height of the cylinder. The chimney will require a wider pipe, with a diameter of about 150 mm. As for its length, it must be equal to at least the cross-section of the cylinder;
  • Metal profile (channel);
  • Crushed stone, concrete and refractory bricks for making the foundation;

The list of necessary tools will be small. We will use:

  • Hammer;
  • Vise;
  • Shovel;
  • Mastercom;
  • Portable electric welding machine with a set of electrodes;
  • Grinder for cutting parts;
  • Tape measure, pencil, plumb line and level;

Installation and assembly of the structure. Installation of the chimney.

  1. First of all, we make a neat cut in the upper part of the balloon. The resulting cap will serve us later as a lid for the furnace.

  1. We attach homemade legs to the bottom of the cylinder using electric welding. The correctness of their installation can be checked using a level or plumb line.
  2. The production of the bubafoni piston occurs in three stages:
  • First we cut a circle out of steel. Its transverse dimensions should be approximately 3.5-4.5 cm smaller than the internal diameter of the gas cylinder to ensure free exit of the resulting pyrolysis gases into the secondary chamber. We make another hole in the central part of the circle so that the end of the air duct can be tightly inserted.

  • We weld the circle and the metal pipe together.

  • We fix channel cuttings to the base of the piston blank by welding.

The finished product will look something like this:

  1. We construct the furnace cover. In the center of the cut off upper part of the old gas cylinder we make markings for the hole. This must be done in such a way that the air duct pipe with the attached supply piston can move freely in it. Using the markings, we make the necessary cutout. On the sides of the improvised lid we weld handles from pieces of reinforcement bent with a vice and a hammer.

We install a chimney in the upper part of the improvised pyrolysis oven. Using a grinder, we cut out a neat hole according to the dimensions of the pipe blank and fasten it together by welding.

Video: How to cut a straight hole for a chimney using a grinder.

To ensure better draft, the chimney should consist of two “elbows” connected at right angles. To do this, at the ends of the horizontal pipe coming out of the cylinder and another segment of the same diameter, we use a grinder to make even cuts at an angle of 45 degrees and weld the pipes to each other.

In addition, it is highly desirable to provide protection for the chimney in the form of a special reflective cap. This will prevent moisture and precipitation from penetrating inside the furnace with subsequent extinguishing.

At this point, the main part of the installation work can be considered complete. The oven is now completely ready for use. We can only, if desired, equip a special foundation for it and begin direct operation.

Laying the foundation for a pyrolysis furnace

Work on arranging the foundation for “bubafoni” will take place in three stages:

  1. First we need to dig a square hole measuring approximately one and a half by one and a half meters. The optimal depth for the foundation will be approximately 20-30 centimeters.

  1. We pour crushed stone inside and fill it with concrete mortar on top. Level the surface using a trowel. After drying, we check the quality of the resulting plane with a level and further correct it, if necessary.

  1. When the concrete is completely dry, we lay several rows of refractory bricks on top of the base. As a rule, two or three brick layers will be enough.

Ignition of the Bubafonya stove

We pull out the feed piston with the welded air duct from the inside, having first removed the cap from the cylinder.

We put wooden logs inside. They must be placed horizontally close to each other. Vertical placement of firewood can have quite unpleasant consequences if an unburnt log standing on its edge interferes with the movement of the piston. This will lead to a full-fledged fire breaking out in the primary chamber instead of smoldering. As a result, the correct operating mode of the stove will be disrupted, the wood will burn faster and, in addition to everything, it may begin to smoke through the air duct. Logs cannot be placed above the location of the chimney.

Sprinkle chips with sawdust or small branches on top of the wood pile. Soak a piece of old fabric in kindling liquid (kerosene is also great) and place it on a layer of wood chips. An alternative to a rag is paper.

We press the filling with the piston and put the oven lid back on.

We set fire to the wood by throwing a piece of lit rags or paper inside through the air duct. A match for lighting a “bubafoni” is not suitable, since it manages to go out before it falls down.

After 15-25 minutes, after the filling has ignited well, it is necessary to close the valve on the air duct. This will limit the air supply to the primary combustion chamber and will cause the logs to begin to smolder, releasing pyrolysis gases. Thus, the “bubafonya” will switch to its main operating mode.

Video instruction. Ignition of the Bubafonya stove

The main problem affecting the efficiency indicators of the Bubafoni is the uneven heating of its body and, as a result, the deterioration of the heat exchange process with the environment. It can be partially solved with the help of a fairly simple modification of the design.

To carry out the modification we will need a corrugated sheet of metal profile. It is necessary to make a kind of “jacket” for the stove from it, tightly fixing it on the surface of the cylinder by welding or in another accessible way. Such an improvement will contribute to the formation of upward convection air currents: cold air is drawn in from the bottom of the ribs, and hot air is released from above. In addition, you can additionally cover the entire structure with brick. This step will allow the walls around the stove to accumulate the heat it emits, heating the room more evenly and for longer.

Video instruction. Making a homemade pyrolysis stove “bubafonya” yourself

Today, gas heating equipment is the most in demand, but it is perhaps too early to send solid fuel boilers and stoves to the dustbin of history. In many regions, firewood is much cheaper than gas, and in some places it is the only available fuel, so heat generators running on such energy resources are still needed. Moreover, this equipment is constantly being developed and improved, eliminating many of its shortcomings. Trying to cope with the most important of them - the need to frequently add fuel - engineers created a whole direction, which is usually referred to as “long-burning heat generators”. How to make a long-burning stove with your own hands will be discussed in our article.

Those who have had to heat an ordinary metal stove with wood or coal know well that such a unit does not allow you to relax - fuel has to be added on average every 4 hours.

This state of affairs could not leave the developers indifferent, and many of them thought about creating “long-lasting” stoves. Logic dictated that first of all it was necessary to increase the capacity of the combustion chamber. But this alone was clearly not enough: with normal combustion, even the largest portion of fuel will still be used up quite quickly, it’s just that we will get excess power, and the lion’s share of the generated heat will fly out the chimney.

Construction of a long-burning furnace

It was necessary to find a new combustion method. Several options were proposed and implemented, and what happened was called a long-burning furnace (they also say long-burning). Some of them are able to work without refilling for up to several days. True, for this we had to give up full autonomy: such stoves require power supply.

Types of long-burning heat generators

So, a stove or boiler with a long burning time can be easily recognized by its huge firebox: instead of the usual 50 liters, its volume can be 100, 150, and for some giants even more than 200 liters. And according to the principle of operation, such installations are divided into several groups.

Top combustion stoves

Convection currents carry the flame upward, so when ignited from above, the fuel burns longer. This simple principle underlies the operation of top combustion stoves. To make the movement of the flame even more gradual, air is supplied in a limited manner and directly into the combustion zone.

Top burning model

Flaws

  • Since the active zone, that is, the flame area, constantly moves from top to bottom, the air duct has to be made movable - in the form of a telescopically folding pipe. This element is difficult to manufacture; in addition, the likelihood of it jamming increases.
  • In furnaces of this type it is impossible to install a water heat exchanger - again due to the “inconstancy” of the combustion zone.
  • Loading a new portion of fuel can only be done after the previous one has completely burned out, otherwise the new portion will light up from below and quickly burn out.
  • Fine fuels like sawdust often stick to the walls of the firebox.
  • It is impossible to make a full-fledged top-burning stove at home, but craftsmen have developed several simplified varieties with good performance. The most popular of them is the so-called Bubafonya stove (named after the developer, Afanasy Bubyakin).

    Pyrolysis ovens

    The operating principle of these heat generators is based on the ability of organic fuel to “melt” under the influence of high temperature, gradually turning into a gas mixture. Its composition is quite diverse - from methane to nitrogen, and almost all components are flammable. In Russian, the process of “melting” wood or coal is called “gas generation”; in Greek, it is called pyrolysis. To prevent the fuel from igniting, air access to the chamber where it decomposes is limited. The combustion of pyrolysis gas occurs in the adjacent chamber, where air is supplied in sufficient quantities.

    The pyrolysis oven is a wonderful invention. It not only works for a long time without user intervention, but is also economical (due to the complete combustion of fuel, the efficiency reaches 85%), environmentally friendly (the second name is a smokeless stove) and extremely convenient to use: it is actually a gas stove with a built-in gas generator unit. But it is impossible to make it yourself. The most complex component is the air supply system, which must be controlled by sophisticated electronics.

    Forced air

    The creators of this heater decided to approach the matter from a different angle: is it not possible to leave everything in the stove as is, but learn to extinguish it and relight it, if necessary, without the help of the owner? Indeed, if such an idea could be realized, the fuel would not burn in the firebox immediately, since the stove would operate in short cycles. Extinguishing a solid fuel stove is quite simple - you just need to shut off the air supply to it.

    Scheme of a forced air furnace

    But how to ignite it without user intervention? There is no draft in the chimney and if you simply open the damper, the flame will not flare up. There is only one way out - install a fan, which will fan the fire. With his help you can regulate the intensity of combustion, that is, the power of the stove.

    For self-production, this option is the most accessible. It is a classic solid fuel stove, equipped with an air duct and an inexpensive automation system. We will create such a heat generator.

    Note! Some manufacturers widely advertise energy-independent long-burning stoves, which in fact turn out to be ordinary “potbelly stoves”. The trick is this: they propose to operate the heater not in the flaming combustion mode, but in the smoldering mode, for which you simply need to close the vent and chimney dampers.

    Indeed, the fuel supply will burn a little longer, but this mode of operation has a number of disadvantages:

  • the fuel does not burn completely, which means the efficiency of the stove drops significantly;
  • the firebox and chimney very quickly become overgrown with soot (smoke is generated intensively);
  • large amounts of carbon monoxide and other unburned particles (heavy hydrocarbon radicals), which are toxic and chemically aggressive, are released into the atmosphere;
  • the combination of low temperature and large amounts of smoke leads to abundant formation of toxic condensate in the chimney, which is even prohibited from being drained near garden crops and fruit trees.
  • Nevertheless, such stoves are quite in demand. They are indispensable in field conditions, for example, on an expedition or at a mobile logging station where there is no power supply. Being able to work on one load of fuel for about 8 hours, even with low efficiency, they allow the crew to get some sleep.

    Description of design and principle of operation

    In terms of its design, a long-burning furnace with forced air supply is very similar to a conventional furnace, but there are a number of fundamental differences:

  • The doors of the firebox and ash pan are closed hermetically.
  • Air enters the ash pan through an air duct, the inlet of which is located on the back side of the stove. The length of this element is selected in such a way that the incoming air has time to warm up well.
  • A KG Elektronik DP-02 (Poland) fan is installed in the air duct, in front of which there is a light damper made of tin. The forced air flow forces it to rise, but as soon as the fan turns off, the damper slams shut under its own weight and the flow of oxygen into the firebox completely stops. The fan operation is controlled by a KG Elektronik SP-05 controller. It relies on temperature sensor readings. All automation - fan, controller and temperature sensor - is sold as one set.
  • Note! There are automation kits on sale that look similar to KG Elektronik products, but are of Chinese origin. Their reliability and durability leave much to be desired.

    Control unit and fan

    The operating principle of this furnace allows heat to be removed not only by air, but also by a coolant liquid - water or antifreeze - without reducing its characteristics. Thus, if the unit is equipped with a heat exchanger, it can be connected to a radiator heating system. Recommended heat exchanger capacity is 50 l. Its main volume will be located above the firebox, and a small part will cover it in the form of a water jacket.

    If there is a heat exchanger, the temperature sensor is installed on its wall. When the coolant cools down, it will command the controller to start the fan and the boiler will flare up. As soon as the temperature of the working environment reaches the maximum set by the user, the same temperature sensor will force the controller to turn off the fan. The gravity damper will lower and the furnace will go out.

    Calculation of parameters

    The calculation of a solid fuel heating device aims to determine two quantities: the volume of the firebox, with which it will be possible to provide the required power, and the dimensions of the cross-section of the chimney. Let's consider both parts of the calculation in detail and in relation to the furnace we have chosen.

    Firebox volume and heating furnace power

    It is quite simple to estimate approximately the heat performance of a solid fuel stove. Let's assume that the volume of its firebox is Vt = 50 liters.

    We will calculate the volume of firewood placed in it using the formula: Vd = Vt * Kz.

    Where Kz is the fill factor of the furnace, usually Kz = 0.63.

    Therefore, Vd = 50 * 0.63 = 31.5 l.

    The next step is to determine the mass of firewood. To do this, you need to know their density - it depends on the type of wood:

  • pine - 470 kg/m3;
  • birch - 600 kg/m3;
  • beech - 620 kg/m 3;
  • oak - 650 kg/m3.
  • We calculate the mass of firewood using the formula: M = Vd * r.

    Where p is the density of wood.

    If the calculation is performed, for example, for oak firewood, then M = 0.0315 * 650 = 20.5 kg.

    We calculate the amount of thermal energy that will be obtained by burning this mass of wood using the formula: Q = M * 0.8 * T * efficiency.

    Where 0.8 - this number shows what part of the fuel burns completely (80%);

    T - specific calorific value of fuel, MJ/kg:

  • oak - 20 MJ/kg;
  • beech - 15.5 MJ/kg;
  • birch - 16.5 MJ/kg;
  • aspen - 18.2 MJ/kg.
  • Efficiency - furnace efficiency: for the unit considered here, the efficiency can be taken equal to 75%.

    Then: Q = 20.5 * 0.8 * 20 * 0.75 = 246 MJ.

    To determine the heater power, we use the formula: W = Q / t.

    Where t is the burning time of one fuel fill, s. In normal mode, such a mass of firewood will burn a little longer than 2 hours, therefore, we take t = 8200 s.

    Then W = 246 * 1,000,000 / 8200 = 30,000 W = 30 kW.

    But this calculation is applicable to traditional furnaces in which fuel is burned in the usual way. In long-burning heat generators, the mode is somewhat different, and the combustion time of the fuel can change, so the method presented here often gives a large error.

    For a more accurate assessment, you should, if possible, use experimental data. Thus, according to the testimony of users involved in the manufacture of stoves with forced air supply, with a firebox volume of within 100 liters, approximately 0.205 kW can be removed from each liter.

    The stove, which this article suggests making with your own hands, will have a firebox with a volume of 112 liters. Then its power will be approximately 112 * 0.205 = 23 kW. The useful volume will be approximately 70–80 liters.

    Considering that the average length of a log is approximately 40 cm, we will take the length of the firebox to be 46 cm. Then its width and height can be taken to be 36 cm and 25 cm, respectively.

    With these dimensions, the stove will weigh about 150 kg.

    The operating time without refilling fuel is 10 – 12 hours for wood and about 24 hours for coal.

    Determining the dimensions of the chimney cross-section

    The required cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney depends on the power of the heat generator connected to it. The ratio of these values ​​is given in SNiP, dedicated to the organization of heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems:

  • for installations with a power of up to 3.5 kW, the chimney cross-section must have dimensions of at least 140x140 mm;
  • with power from 3.5 to 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm;
  • from 5.2 to 7 kW - 140x270 mm;
  • over 7 kW - 270x270 mm.
  • If the heat generator is connected to a round steel pipe, its cross-sectional area should be the same as that of rectangular chimneys listed in SNiP. Therefore, for our stove with a power of 23 kW, the minimum cross-sectional area of ​​a round chimney is 27 x 27 = 729 square meters. cm, that is, its diameter must be at least 30.5 cm.

    Materials and tools

    To make a long-burning furnace, you will need rolled steel. The ideal option is to make blanks from heat-resistant steel with additions of molybdenum and chromium. As an example, we can cite brands 12Х1МФ and 12ХМ. But you should be prepared for the fact that this material is quite expensive.

    If increasing the cost of a homemade “long-lasting” furnace is not part of your plans, use ordinary structural steel. It costs much less than alloyed one, you just need to choose the right brand. The most durable homemade heat generators are made from Steel 20 (withstand 15 years of operation). But you can also use other low-carbon grades - Steel 10, St. 3, etc. Grades with a higher carbon content - from grade “Steel 35” and higher - are hardened when exposed to high temperatures. As a result, they become brittle and are therefore not suitable for making ovens.

    Everything is clear with the materials, now let’s look at the specific types of rental products that we will need:

  • Sheets 3 and 4 mm thick (for the manufacture of firebox and heat exchanger).
  • Sheets 0.3–0.5 mm thick with colored polymer coating (cladding).
  • Equal corner 50x4 mm (needed for making a grate).
  • Pipe with a diameter of 50 mm (we will make heat exchanger pipes and flame pipes from it).
  • A pipe with a diameter of 150 mm is for the smoke exhaust pipe.
  • Rectangular pipe 60x40 mm (air duct).
  • Strip 20x3 mm.
  • In addition, you will need the following materials and products:

  • 20 mm basalt wool with a density of 100 kg/m 3;
  • handles and hinges for doors;
  • asbestos cord (used as a sealant).
  • The structure will be welded, so the home craftsman should arm himself with a welding machine. You can use electrodes of the MP-3C or ANO-21 brands. You will also need a grinder and a drill with a set of metal drills. Everything else is tools for ordinary plumbing work and a tape measure with a pencil.

    Preparatory work

    Rolled steel must be cut into blanks. Of course, you can do this on your own - using a grinder, but a more rational way is to order cutting in some workshop equipped with guillotine shears and a gas cutter. The work will be done faster and better. And it won’t cost much more than manual cutting, because grinder wheels also cost money.

    Drawing: front and side sections of the furnace

    Drawing of a homemade stove

    Steel sheets must be cut into parts, the list of which is shown in the table.

    Table: quantity and dimensions of steel sheets

    It is also necessary to make nozzles from pipes and grate parts from corners.

    It is clear that with a weight of 150 kg, moving the finished stove will be difficult. Therefore, it should be assembled directly at the place intended for installation. It also needs to be prepared:

  • The location is chosen so that the stove is at least 1 m away from the walls. If the walls are decorated with non-combustible material, for example, vermiculite plaster, the specified distance can be reduced to 0.85 m.
  • A stand is constructed from any non-flammable material, extending 300 mm beyond the boundaries of the stove in each direction. The easiest way is to lay it out of brick.
  • A basalt or asbestos lining is laid on the floor on the side of the combustion door, and on top of it is a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 1.5 mm. The dimensions of this fireproof coating are selected in such a way that the floor is protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the axis of the combustion door.

    Step-by-step instructions with photos

    Making a firebox

    At the initial stage, all parts - they are cut from a sheet 4 mm thick - are tacked by spot welding. The side walls are welded to the bottom, then the arch (which is also the bottom of the heat exchanger) and the frames of the door openings. What should happen is shown in the figure. As you can see, the bottom extends somewhat beyond the walls of the firebox. Its front part is also the lower frame of the ash chamber opening.

    After assembling the structure, all joints are welded with a continuous seam. Then the firebox is checked for leaks.

    Firebox assembly

    Heat exchanger with water jacket

    The outer walls of the heat exchanger are made of sheet steel 3 mm thick. The thickness of the water jacket surrounding the firebox is 20 mm. Its volume is limited by strip sections that are welded to the firebox and have an outlet of 20 mm - the thickness of the thermal insulation. The sheathing will subsequently be screwed to them. The bottom of the shirt is located at the level of the grate.

    Water jacket assembly process

    The water jacket is reinforced with short pieces of rod called clips. They are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. First, the clips are butt welded to the firebox, then the outer wall is mounted with holes pre-drilled for them. After this, each clip is welded from the outside to the outer wall with a continuous seam.

    The clips are welded in a checkerboard pattern

    At a distance of 50–100 mm from the front edge, you can install clips made of steel strip: here they are accessible for welding, so they can be welded to both walls without making holes in the outer one.

    All joints of water jacket elements must be hermetically sealed.

    Flame tubes inside the heat exchanger

    These elements are installed in holes made in the front and rear walls. Towards the front wall they diverge slightly, forming something like a fan. Each pipe should be welded at the end with a continuous seam.

    Flame tubes fan out

    Manufacturing of grates and doors

    The “rods” of the grid are made from 50x4 mm corners. It is important to place them exactly as shown in the figure - with an angle down. With this design, the grille becomes streamlined for air coming from below and distributes it more evenly.

    Grate drawing

    The doors are rectangles cut out of sheet metal, to the inner surface of which a strip is welded in two rows. Between these rows a groove is formed into which the sealant - asbestos cord - is placed. The doors are equipped with factory-made handles and hinges.

    Installation of air duct and pipes

    The air duct, made of a rectangular pipe with a cross-section of 60x40 mm, is mounted according to the drawing. It must be equipped with a flange through which the fan will be connected. The air duct entrance to the ash chamber is made in the rear wall.

    Oven with installed pipes

    To connect the stove to the heating system, pipes made of pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are cut into the walls of the heat exchanger.

    It is also necessary to install a smoke exhaust pipe.

    Installation of brackets and insulation

    Brackets are the parts to which the sheathing will be screwed. They are welded to the internal elements of the furnace, as shown in the figure.

    Installation of thermal insulation material

    Now the heat exchanger with a water jacket needs to be lined on the side and top with basalt wool, tying it with asbestos cord.

    Note! The use of glass wool instead of basalt is not allowed, since it melts already at 400 degrees.

    Covering and installing doors

    There is nothing special to comment on here: the decorative panels are screwed to the brackets with screws, the doors are hung on hinges. After this, they (the doors) should be painted with heat-resistant enamel. Don't forget to remove the protective film from the decorative panels.

    This is what the finished product looks like

    Installation of automation kit

    The fan should be screwed to the duct flange, the temperature sensor is placed under the basalt wool at the rear wall of the heat exchanger. The control module with controller is conveniently placed on the top cover.

    Oven operation and maintenance

    A long-burning furnace with forced air supply is extremely easy to use:

  • Fuel - wood or coal - is loaded into the firebox and ignited in the usual way.
  • By tightly closing the door, the user sets the coolant temperature range on the control module. Do not forget that very aggressive condensate forms on the heat exchangers of solid fuel heaters at low coolant temperatures, so it is recommended to set the lower limit of the range to at least 50 degrees.
  • Having set the operating mode, the user presses the Start key. The controller starts the fan and air begins to flow into the firebox. During operation, the system independently adjusts the speed of rotation of the blower, bringing the furnace to the power necessary to heat the coolant.
  • What happens next is in the order already described: the controller, using a fan, alternately extinguishes the stove and then activates it again.

    From time to time, the stove and chimney should be cleaned of ash and soot.

    Modernization of a homemade stove

    Several improvements are available to the user:

  • A coil can be installed in the heat exchanger to heat tap water (DHW circuit). It is made from a copper tube with a diameter of 8–12 mm and a length of about 10 m. The tube is wound around the flame tubes and both ends are brought out through holes in the back wall.
  • In case the owners are absent for a long time, a heating element can be installed in the heat exchanger. The purpose of this device is not to fully heat the house, but to prevent the system from freezing. Therefore, the heating element can have a much lower power than the furnace itself: 3–5 kW. There is no need to install any additional automation equipment; just select a heating element with a built-in thermostat (these can easily be found on sale today) and set it to a temperature of, say, 20 degrees.
  • You can also embed a sleeve into the heat exchanger to install a regular thermometer - this is in case of a power outage, without which the electronic temperature sensor, and even the temperature display, will be inoperative.

    Video: how to make a long-burning stove out of brick with your own hands

    With the current level of technology development, the owner of a solid fuel stove does not necessarily have to jump up in the middle of the night and run to the woodpile for another bundle of firewood. Units have been invented that can operate without user intervention for several days. Some of them can only be made in a factory, but there are also those that even an inexperienced craftsman can reproduce at home without much difficulty. We reviewed one of these models - a long-burning furnace with forced air supply - in this article. The given instructions with drawings and photographs will help you carry out all the work on manufacturing the heater without errors.