How to make a subwoofer more powerful: useful information. How to properly make a subwoofer for the home with your own hands: we assemble a homemade SAB at home from an ordinary speaker Do-it-yourself subwoofer for the home drawings

A buffer for the car to amuse people. :winked:

In order to assemble a subwoofer for a car with our own hands, we will, of course, need the desire to make it and patience, because assembling a subwoofer is one such audiophile solution for which some do not have enough patience. You will also need material things; you can purchase them both at a construction equipment store and at home, for example, the same closet will do.

We will need:
- Chipboard 18 mm thick, approximately 2.5 * 1.5 m
- A screwdriver or drill, if you use a drill you need to carefully tighten the screws, since chipboard is a rather soft material
- Screws 45-55 mm long, 120 pieces
- Silicone sealant
- Low-frequency speaker
- A couple of stronger wires
- Clamp for wires from amplifier to speaker
- Drills 4 mm and 8 mm
- A circular saw or a jigsaw, the second one will be more convenient for sawing
- Construction tools such as corner, pencil, ruler.

To assemble the subwoofer smoothly and efficiently, you need to find a partner who will hold the chipboard for you while sawing and feed you the screws. We have found a partner, we can start sawing up the components.

The dimensions of our speaker are 8 inches, which is enough to drive a small car, the dimensions of the box are taken from the group in contact, I chose the best option on a slotted bass reflex, I looked at many reviews, which contributed to the choice.

First, let's cut out the top and bottom sides, their dimensions are the same and equal to 536 mm in length and 311 mm in width.

We cut everything carefully so that there are no bevels, check for evenness with a corner, everything matches, and move on. The next step will be sawing the side parts, these sides are different, the length of one is 447 mm, and the other 500 mm, on the smaller side you need to drill a hole, stepping back from the edge 2 cm with an 8 mm drill, running a jigsaw into the hole and cutting out a circle with a diameter of 181 cm, the speaker will be fastened from the outside so as not to disassemble the entire box in the event of a speaker failure.

Now let's pre-drill holes for the screws so that the chipboard does not crack, and so that dents do not form in the place of the screw. The appearance of the screwed-in screw does not look very good, we will make a small recess for each head, now when the screw is tightened it becomes flush with the plane.

So, we have a box of four walls, it remains to cut two boards for the phasic, the length of one is 223 mm, the other is 258 mm, all two sides have a height of 220 mm. You need to cut all the walls at right angles; you can measure it using a corner, apply it, it matches, which means the angle is exactly 90 degrees. We screw the sides onto the self-tapping screws, also first drilling holes and making recesses, countersunk for the screws, it is made 8 mm - drilled. Now we attach the side with 258 mm to the connection, the port should be 35 mm on both sides. So, we measured it, everything fits together, we can attach it with screws.

And yet, when installing all sides of the buffer, it is necessary to coat their seams with sealant, it is better to apply it in waves, this will make it less likely that the sub will sniff, and when the sub sniffs it is very unpleasant. All that remains is to put on the side and install the speaker, then the top cover. Next step: use a soldering iron to solder the wires tightly to the speaker, push it into the seat.

Then we tighten it with four shorter screws (it’s better to coat the rim with a small amount of sealant), about 30 mm long, and solder the wires, observing the polarity from the speaker to the terminal block.

After all the sealant has dried, you can close the sub cover, this is the last stage, on the cover you need to measure where the screws will be both for the fuse and for the walls, the thickness of the chipboard is 18 mm, therefore, stepping back about 8 mm from the beginning of the edge, we turn the screws. Before this, apply sealant to all parts of the sides at the top, without allowing the sealant to dry, place the lid on.

You will need

• - speaker;
• - plywood:
• - computer;
• - computer program WinISD 0.44;
• - two tubes made of paper, polyethylene or metal;
• - jigsaw;
• - PVA glue;
• - metal brackets;
• - sealant;
• - self-adhesive film;
• - felt, cotton wool or foam rubber.

Instructions

First, a few words about the subwoofer. This is one that reproduces low frequency sounds. Using a subwoofer provides better sound. And the system itself is a so-called column with a large speaker. Subwoofers are divided into two categories: active (with a built-in amplifier) ​​and passive (without a built-in amplifier).

Subwoofers are most often used in car systems and home theaters. The subwoofer allows you to listen to good quality sound - super powerful bass. If you don’t have the opportunity to purchase a much-needed item like a subwoofer, try making one yourself. Moreover, in practice, this becomes not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

The easiest and simplest way is to make a non-active subwoofer (without a built-in amplifier). Why is clear from the name itself: a subwoofer in this category does not require the installation of an amplifier. And work on such a “craft” comes down to designing, assembling a subwoofer box and directly installing the speaker inside the box.

So, you need to start work by selecting a speaker. Remember: the more powerful the speaker, the louder your future SAB will operate. The speaker can get into your hands in different ways. The main thing is the presence of some passport information about its performance. The fact is that the design of the case will depend on them, which is important. You will also need the speaker's free-field resonance frequency, the speaker's overall Q factor, and the equivalent volume. You can find out this data from the documents accompanying the speaker. Therefore, sometimes it makes sense to have a speaker in a store rather than at a flea market. However, the decision of what to buy and where is up to you. And you, as the author of the future subwoofer, are free to choose the most modest model at the lowest price.

Having decided on the speaker model, start designing the SAB box. To do this you need to use the computer program WinISD 0.44. Without the help of this utility, it will be difficult to assemble a working case. The program will ask for speaker parameters. It allows you to develop four types of boxes. You are invited to consider the box with the highest efficiency - this is a sixth-order bandpass.

A sixth-order bandpass is a rectangular cubic object. Inside there is one jumper on which the speaker will be attached. The bandpass will have two holes intended for installing phase inverter cameras. The role of these chambers will be played by tubes made of metal, polyethylene or paper. This housing must be sealed as much as possible. Therefore, it needs to be reinforced with foam rubber, felt or cotton wool. The inner layer should be at least two centimeters. The removable subwoofer cover must have a high density at the joint. It can be reinforced with an additional layer of foam rubber.

All dimensions of the future box and subwoofer will be given by the WinISD 0.44 program. It will calculate the optimal numbers for your case based on the speaker's capabilities. Your task is to accurately realize all the dimensions, then the sound will meet all expectations. Overall, assembling a subwoofer is a challenging task. It requires not only an understanding of acoustic systems, but also skills in working with wood, screws, bolts and sealing materials. So this is a real challenge for the craftsman. If you are extremely careful and consistent, you will succeed.

And now a little more about creating a subwoofer. Remembering the saying about the first pancake, which always turns out to be lumpy, it is best to start making your first SAB with a cheap speaker model. For example, it can be taken from an old column. In this case, you need to know the basic parameters of the speaker.

Download and install the WinISD 0.44 program on your computer, run it, enter data about your speaker. Knowing them, the program will most accurately calculate the main parameters of the box for your future subwoofer and offer the most optimal options directly for the speaker you are using. Choose one of the proposed types of boxes. When choosing a “case”, focus on the technical capabilities of the product and the sound quality you want to get from the subwoofer.

To get the highest quality sound, carefully seal the subwoofer, fasten the joints of the box walls, lay felt or foam rubber (you can also use cotton wool) inside with a thickness of at least 2 cm. The removable wall also needs special sealing. To isolate the seams of the case as much as possible, you can use foam tape, which must be secured with glue or metal staples.

Cover the body with self-adhesive film that imitates wood or metal. Connect the subwoofer to your audio source and power supply.

How to make a subwoofer box correctly

Preparation

To make a subwoofer enclosure yourself you will need:

• Drawing;
• Materials: plywood or MDF, glue, screws, terminal block, connection wire;
• Tools - jigsaw, screwdriver, pencil, template for mounting hole or compass.

Drawing

Having the housing parameters for the subwoofer in hand (volume, area and length of the port), you can make a drawing yourself using special programs (in my opinion, SketchUp from Google is the most convenient for this). But if you make the box for yourself, then there is no point in wasting time learning the software and doing everything the old fashioned way - by hand.

If you do not know how to calculate the body, then read the material. You can also order a paid estimate on the Internet; as a rule, it is accompanied by a clear drawing for manufacturing.

An example of a drawing of a housing with a bass reflex (FI)

Materials and fasteners

Housing material

In order to make a box for a subwoofer, you need a material that should vibrate as little as possible. From experience, it is best to use MDF (not painted, not laminated, etc.)

MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard). In Russian - medium density fiberboard.

MDF is easy to process, has good density, due to its structure it has no resonances and does not delaminate - the bass in such a box is soft and dense. MDF is more expensive than plywood and is “afraid” of moisture.

Plywood is the most common option and costs less than MDF.

Do not use chipboard or old furniture to make subwoofer boxes. A plywood or MDF body will always sound better.

If the walls are thick enough, there is no need to cover the inside of the body with vibration insulation, etc.!

Do not use material thinner than 18 mm. and the larger the volume of your case, the thicker the walls should be.

Many large stores that sell sheet material offer a cutting service to your dimensions, where they will cut the perfect parts for you on a machine, all that remains is to assemble the body.

Fasteners

For fastening it is best to use yellow screws length at least 2 times the wall thickness. The heads of black ones often break off; they are thinner and not as strong. An advanced solution is furniture bolts, but if this is your first sub, then it will be easier with self-tapping screws.

Yellow screws, black screws, furniture bolts.

Cage nuts for attaching the subwoofer to the case - that's cool! The sub can also be secured with self-tapping screws, but with bolts in the mountings, the speaker is attracted as tightly as possible, and if necessary, it can be removed and installed as many times as necessary without damage. And the polished hex bolts look really cool.

Bolt with cage nut

Video about installing cage nuts (a more convenient option):

Glue

If you are sawing the walls with a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw, then the glue will additionally act as a sealant between the uneven edges; any liquid wood nails will do for this. If you unraveled the material on the machine and the edges of the body walls are perfect, then you do not need to use glue; it will be enough to coat the joints from the inside.

Terminal block

You can route the wires directly, but it is better to make a box for the subwoofer with a terminal block.

Terminal block for housing

Use threaded options - they are more reliable. For round seats, it is convenient to cut a hole using a nozzle.

Wires

You will need a piece of wire to connect the subwoofer coil to the output terminal block. Take any copper wire no thinner than 4 mm. in most cases this will be sufficient.

Tools

You will need:

• A circular saw— for cutting material, it can be either manual or stationary, it all depends on your capabilities. It is better not to cut with a jigsaw, the edges will be too uneven, even if you attach a guide bar, since the file can still wander.

• Jigsaw- for cutting out holes for the speaker and for the terminal block, it can also be a router, with its help the holes will be smooth and neat. To cut out the wall for a round terminal block, you can use a saw attachment. Select the right jigsaw blade for the job at hand.
• Screwdriver- for tightening screws and drilling holes.

Cutting parts

So, you have decided on the shape for the sub box and you have a drawing.

Mark the sheet according to the parts and cut according to the marked dimensions. Use a disk with a large number of teeth; the smaller the tooth size of a circular saw blade, the fewer chips you will get, and their size will be insignificant.

If you use a manual circular saw and your hand is not full, better to use a guide, so as not to accidentally “fail” the cut.

It is better to do this work together, since it is quite inconvenient for one person to turn large sheets and hold them while working.

Below is a good video from Rockford Fosgate, although in English, but everything is clear here without translation - choosing the shape of the body, lining up the parts, cutting.

Subwoofer enclosure assembly

To properly make a box for a subwoofer, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, drill a hole for it with a thin drill, this will increase the strength of the fastening and protect the plywood from delamination. Distribute the number of screws evenly along the length of the side and make sure that they do not meet at the corners.

Almost always a template for cutting out the mounting hole comes with the sub; it can be part of the box or be a separate attachment. Cut out the template, transfer it to the front side of the box and cut it out with a jigsaw or router.

Template for mounting hole (cut from box)

If you don’t have such a template, you’ll have to arm yourself with a compass. When marking and cutting out the hole for the speaker, be very careful! The basket shelf is almost always narrow. If you cut less than required, the subwoofer basket will not fit into the hole; if you cut a little more or not exactly, the sub will not fit tightly or the mounting screws will hang in the air.

For heavy subwoofers, it is recommended to make the front wall of the housing double to eliminate vibrations during speaker operation.

Double front wall

With large dimensions of the case, double walls may not be enough and in some cases it will be useful to use spacers.

Options for struts and stiffeners

Please note that all wire entry channels, terminal blocks, etc. must be sealed, internal partitions (port walls) must not have any gaps.

It is convenient to cut a hole for a round terminal block using a nozzle; when installing it, do not forget to glue it around the perimeter.

When tightening the screws, do not overdo it so as not to tear it off and do not forget to pre-drill holes for them.

If you use cage nuts to mount the speaker, then first install it in the seat, accurately mark the drilling locations, remove the speaker and drill through the front wall according to the marks (make sure that the drill is always perpendicular to the plane). Select the thickness of the drill in accordance with the diameter of the embedded nuts. Install the nuts into the prepared holes from the inside of the body so that they do not fall out when the bolts are screwed into them.

Cage nuts on the inside of the front wall

When screwing the speaker, do not forget to connect it to the terminal block; for this, you can solder the wire to it or use special terminals.

Informative video of assembly and gluing using the example of Rockford's serial Subic.

If your case was correctly designed, it is sealed, strong and with sufficient wall thickness, then its sound will definitely please you.

In contact with

How to make a subwoofer in a car with your own hands? This question is often asked by car enthusiasts,
who are not satisfied with ready-made cabinet subwoofers. In this article we will show how
You can make a simple, high-quality subwoofer for your car with your own hands.
To make a subwoofer, we need to decide on the shape of the body, type
acoustic design and select a dynamic head.
We will choose the shape of the subwoofer body in the form of a truncated pyramid, as the most
universal, with a beveled rear wall at an angle of 23 degrees (in almost all cars, the back of the rear row of seats is tilted at exactly this angle).

We will select closed as the type of acoustic design for the subwoofer enclosure.
box. This will make it easy to get predictable results. These types of acoustic
design as a bass reflex (bass reflex, vented box) and bandpass (bandpass)
We will not consider them because they require more complex calculations and settings.
We will also not consider open design (Free air), since it suits
only for sedans.

Let's move on to choosing a subwoofer speaker. Since we need a speaker for
closed box, then when choosing it you must be guided by such a parameter as
quality factor Qt. This parameter should be approximately 0.5 - 0.6. If this parameter is equal to
0.3 - 0.5, then such a speaker is more suitable for bass reflex design, and if Qt
= 0.7 - 1.2, then an open design is more suitable for such a speaker. Inexpensive
For subwoofer speakers, our choice fell on the DS250 model from Hertz.

According to measurements and recommendations of the magazine "Avtozvuk", for the Hertz DS250 speaker in
The acoustic design of a closed box requires a volume of about 23-28 liters. At
this frequency response of the subwoofer taking into account the transfer characteristic of the car interior
turns out to be linear.

After determining the required volume, we proceed to the calculation and production of the drawing
subwoofer enclosures. We will make the front wall of the subwoofer housing from chipboard with a thickness of 23
mm, and the side ones are 20 mm thick. After cutting out the walls of the subwoofer housing
the required size and quantity, we proceed to assembling the body. All connections
We do it using PVA glue and self-tapping screws. We screw in the screws in increments of 5 cm,
pre-drilling a hole for them with a 3 mm drill and countersinking with a 10 drill
mm for screw heads.

After the box is assembled from the side, top and bottom walls, on one of the side
Using a compass, mark the hole for the acoustic terminal on each side.

And use a jigsaw to cut out a hole.

Since the acoustic terminal is quite flimsy and can
to create overtones, then for this we screen it with a small box.

We coat this box with glue and screw it to the side using self-tapping screws.

Using a plane, we cut off all the protruding edges of the subwoofer housing. Using a jigsaw, we cut a hole in the front panel for installing a speaker, which we attach to the body with glue and screws.

The next stage that we have to go through is to protect it from moisture and condensation.
subwoofer housing, since moisture on chipboard has a destructive effect. For this we
saturate the body with furniture nitro varnish. It is better to carry out this procedure on the street, because...
the varnish is smelly and poisonous.

We also impregnate the inner end of the front panel.

The next step we need to complete is to refine the appearance.
To do this, we will cover the subwoofer housing with carpet. For gluing we will need approximately
1.5 meters of carpet. Nitro varnish was used as glue.

Using a sharp utility knife, cut a hole in the carpet for the speaker.

The body is ready. The last step remains - to connect the subwoofer speaker to the acoustic speaker.
terminal and secure them in the housing.

Your DIY subwoofer is ready! Can be connected to an amplifier and
enjoy the bass.

Subwoofer
The thought of assembling a subwoofer has been haunting me for several months now.
And then one day, going into the “Radio Shop”, a Semtoni woofer caught my eye, and I
decided to buy it...

I spent the next week calculating the subwoofer. I downloaded several programs for calculations
subwoofer enclosures (DLSBox2000, JBL-Speakershop, WinISD...) Most of all I
I liked the program DLSBox2000. With her help I calculated the sub. And this is what happened -
the efficiency of this design (FI) for my speaker is 76%, volume - 37
lyres (external dimensions 45x35x35cm), bass reflex 75x100mm. (diameter/length).
Then I drew a sketch on paper and began making it.

I screwed all the walls together with 50mm long screws. All connections are made with PVA glue
(advice – don’t spare the glue, the excess will squeeze out). There are seams on the inside for extra security.
coated it with silicone sealant. In principle, this is not necessary, but it’s better to miss and forget than to take it apart again later.

Next I started puttingty. I used automotive putty,
two-component (You can make putty yourself by mixing small sawdust
wood and PVA glue, as an option). When the putty was dry, I sanded the body
almost to an ideal plane.

Then I cut out holes for the bass reflex, socket, and pocket handles.

Let's assemble the subwoofer to see how it sounds.

All my doubts about the correctness of calculating the volume of the box were instantly dispelled -
a homemade subwoofer played soft, even bass.
Having made sure that nothing was whistling anywhere, I removed the “accessories” and proceeded to
pasting the body with self-adhesive paper with a leather texture. Collected.

Making a podium for a subwoofer
with your own hands
After making the podiums, it was time to think about the subwoofer. Certainly,
You could just buy a cabinet sub, but for me that's too easy.
And in general, if you want to know my opinion, a ready-made box for a real man
should be done only once, and to completely different music...
Technology selection
Having carefully read all the recommendations, I decided to build a box like
"stealth" (hidden, irregularly shaped, repeating the shape of part of the trunk) from
fiberglass and carbon fiber with plywood walls.
Materials and tools
The basic materials I needed were:
§ Epoxy, 9 bottles of 300 g each, manufactured in Dzerzhinsk.
§ Fiberglass fabric 0.3 mm thick (most likely industrial), without wax, about 2.5 square meters. m.
§ Carbon tape 0.1 mm thick and 0.4 m wide - about 4 m.
§ Sheet of plywood 9 mm - about 1.8 square meters. m.
§ Polyester putty with fiberglass - 150 g.
§ And also sandpaper, nails, screws, paper tape, plasticine, Matson spray paint,
"Moment" type glue, hot melt glue, carpet (carpet).
I didn’t have a jigsaw then, so I used regular saws - wide and
narrow, also an electric drill, a hair dryer "Black&Decker", metal scissors,
knife-cutter and also a hammer...

Sticker
I decided to place the subwoofer on the left in the trunk - the distance to the battery is shorter and
more space in the niche due to the absence of a gas tank neck. The place that is behind
plastic plug, I also decided to use it, and, as it turned out, it was not in vain, it
additional 5 liters of volume. First, I prepared the surfaces: I sealed everything
paper tape, including the plastic sidewall. Then using cardboard, tape and
using plasticine, I made a shell (ends) around the cutout flush with the edges, after
gluing a piece of 8 mm foam to the inner surface of the rear wing. This is for
so that the finished form does not rest against the inside of the wing. It is important here to ensure that
the side cardboard walls were located at a slight angle, otherwise the cast
it will be impossible to pull it out of the hole. Then with the same plasticine a little
I adjusted the resulting matrix to give smoother contours to the cast.
I heated the plasticine with a hairdryer, otherwise it was very difficult.
The surface prepared in this way was generously smeared with lithol and proceeded to
pasting. The fiberglass fabric was overlapped, in strips about 15 cm wide, slightly
heating them with a hairdryer and squeezing out the bubbles. I did not smear the surface with resin (it is in lithol), but pre-impregnated the strips. At this stage I'm not very clear
I imagined the future shape of the box, so I covered a obviously large area.
Epoxy cures slowly at low temperatures, so I had to
look for a warm garage to harden the mold. It turned out to be much easier than I did
assumed, and after spending the night in the huge warm factory garage, I
he solemnly tore out the resulting cast, albeit with some effort...
Walls
I figured out the number, shape and size of the side walls on the spot, cutting them out of cardboard and
fastening with hot melt adhesive (sold in the form of rods, melted with a soldering iron or
inserted into a special “gun”). But at this stage there is one important problem for
which I found (I’m proud of myself!) a non-trivial solution.

How to estimate the volume of a box? I never found a ready answer, I had to come up with one.
The speaker box held 20 liters, so I cut it out of cardboard by eye and stapled it together
walls so that you get one and a half boxes. You can measure volume more accurately
only with the help of bulk or liquid substances... Cereals (30 liters) may also be suitable
cereals - oh-oh!), sand, expanded clay or foam balls... We are not talking about water yet
- the design is leaky in principle. But a fresh solution came by itself, however
not right away: I poured 6 liters of water into regular garbage bags, tied them and just
threw it into the mock-up box! Although the structure almost crumbled due to the gravity of the water,
I achieved my goal...
Then I cut out the walls from 9 mm plywood, trying to take into account the reduction
volume in the future: wall thickness, volume of bars and stiffeners, epoxy (9
bottles of 300 g), fiberglass, etc. I fastened the new walls with hot glue and a second time
made a measurement. If there are doubts about the correctness of the measurements, then the width of the walls can be
make with a reserve and cut off the excess later, when sufficient strength has been gained.
The top wall had to be built with a cutout for the speaker in the standard place of the trim.
This is how I plan to organize the rear audio.

Next, I fastened the walls together using screws (self-tapping screws), blocks and
epoxy. It is better to cut the bars from hard wood: beech, oak, birch. Places under
screws (I took 4 x
25 mm) marked and pre-drilled with a drill 0.5-0.75 of the screw diameter, otherwise
the block will split. I would like to add that I fastened the side walls together without separating
rear - to constantly monitor the position of the wooden part relative to
fiberglass. That is, he broke the temporary adhesive connection, placed the block and
I fixed the area again with hot glue. When the wooden strapping has dried, thoroughly
I glued the back wall to it with epoxy, nailing it with glazing beads (small ones like that)
studs around the perimeter for a complete fit. After this, I cut off the excess cast and
I pulled out these nails here and there. When joining, all the cracks were filled with a mixture of resin and
sawdust The initial form was ready. Even at this stage the box was completely
sealed, so I measured the volume with water, without bags...
Strengthening
To increase the rigidity of wooden walls, it was enough to simply nail and stick
another layer of plywood. But at my own peril and risk I made the task a little more difficult for myself and
used a composite material - “sandwich”. Sandwiched between two plywood walls
three layers of carbon fiber with resin, and the fibers were located lengthwise - across - lengthwise.
I decided to drill out an additional wall and thus make it a “honeycomb”
structure. It seems to me that these holes do not reduce the overall rigidity of the structure, but
This document is created with trial version of Document2PDF Pilot 2.6.97.
significantly improve wall damping. And besides, in total this is an additional 2
liters of volume, I counted. It is quite possible that these holes are a controversial issue. I'm not here
I am 100% confident in the correctness of my actions, but the tests showed good
results...
Another thing is to increase the strength of the fiberglass part of the box. Optimal
The solution turned out to be the use of a similar “sandwich”. Only now three or four layers
carbon fibers were placed between layers of fiberglass. This kind of “sandwich” I carefully
made on a smooth substrate (ideally on a piece of thick glass), carefully
impregnating each layer with resin. Then I glued it inside the cast. Previously
I lubricated the surface with epoxy and warmed the already laid “sandwich” a little with a hairdryer
(the resin was softening), carefully leveled it, squeezing out bubbles, and then heated it with a hairdryer
already stronger. After such actions, the freshly stuck “sandwich” “rose up” - a little
hardened. Thus, it is quite possible to gain stiffness layer by layer without
waiting for complete polymerization of fresh “sandwiches”.
Using this scheme, I gained a total thickness of 8-10 layers, overlapping the pieces and
focusing on areas with the largest area. Also tried to make a "sandwich"
It grabbed the plywood walls a little. The form was glued quite evenly, so
The surface was practically not sanded between layers. Carbon fiber has
high modulus of rigidity, so its use greatly simplifies the task. Can,
Of course, you can do without it, but then the number of layers of fiberglass will have to be increased... And
one more point: the composite will be much stronger if it dries under
cargo, and not just like that. I don’t have a vacuum unit, I didn’t use pressure, but
pressing the fiberglass fabric with a bag of sand would probably not be a bad idea...
Stiffening ribs and top cover
The structure became stronger and stronger. I tried to jump with all my might
box, but it did not cause any deformation. However, I installed stiffening ribs
(spacers). Jumping is jumping, and bass is serious business.

Reber cut out three pieces - from the same plywood, 3-4 cm wide. Of course, it’s not so simple
it was “close to the text” to repeat the relief of the fiberglass surface, but I didn’t really
I tried: fiberglass will write off everything... I attached the ribs with nails to the wooden walls,
filled the gaps between them and the cast with a mixture of resin and sawdust, and then at the joint
put strips of fiberglass. I glued a beech block to the bottom of the niche, sealing it
on top with a piece of fiberglass. Well, now the strength has definitely reached the “LINKOR” mark.
The top cover was also cut out of plywood. Between two 9mm blanks
clamped a couple of layers of carbon fiber and a layer of fiberglass with resin, fastened the plywood with nails
and pressed down with a load. I cut out the hole for the speaker in advance, and then to the dried composite
I glued and nailed an additional ring to the structure. It adds a little
rigidity of the cover, and the screws securing the speaker will hold more firmly due to
longer journey in the tree...
After checking the surfaces, I solemnly glued the lid to the box, tightly
screwing it in with screws. Small irregularities and screw heads were puttied and sanded.
I also puttyed the fiberglass part of the box, but only large shells -
it makes no sense to bring the surface “to zero”: who will appreciate it, but on the hardness
does not affect.
The box was painted inside and out with matte black paint, although experts
It is recommended to treat the interior space with anti-corrosion agent in aerosol packaging.
I also glued 10mm foam rubber onto the Moment glue from the inside for better
wall damping. Outside, part of the box was draped with carpet (carpet),
using the same "Moment".
I bought universal terminals - both for a plug and just for a bare wire. Drilled
holes in the side wall and screwed them in place, covering them with sealant. Wire to speaker
I took a shorter and thicker one, 4 sq. mm, I soldered and insulated the contact points.

Sealing the speaker
Incorrect pairing of the dynamic head and the box (this is especially true for the voice box)
can easily nullify all the painstaking work. Of course, there are special
pads made of porous material designed specifically for placing under
speaker rim. You can even glue the speaker to the housing with sealant. But what about him later?
tear off? I used a simple and reliable technology that gives excellent
results. I recommend to everyone.
The rim of the speaker basket was smeared (out of sin) with lithol. Then I applied silicone sealant
(branded “ABRO” gives excellent results) along the edge of the hole in the case. To
the head is not glued, you need to lay strips of thin
cellophane (pieces of a package - "T-shirts" are quite suitable). Next you need to attach
speaker, orienting it the way it will stand in the future, and screw it
all screws. Once the sealant has cured, the speaker and cellophane should easily
detach, and on the body there should remain a perfect fit for a specific
head silicone gasket.

conclusions
In my opinion, the subwoofer turned out well. Not particularly heavy, but tough and durable. In the end he
turned out to be about 33 liters - not much less than calculated, but it’s not so scary:
adding sound-absorbing material inside can correct this inconsistency...
It sits in the trunk like a glove, doesn’t rattle, the walls don’t “breathe” even
near maximum volume. In general, I'm pleased. At that moment I don't have
ability to measure the frequency response, so I tuned it by ear - adding or removing
acoustic ballast or sound absorber.
On April 15, 2000, it became possible to test the subwoofer in action at the first
SPL club competitions. It came as a complete surprise to me, but the subwoofer
category "SOLO" demonstrated a sound pressure of 132.5 dB - the best result
among all participants. For one "twelve" this is very serious.

Another article on how to do it

A true music lover does not like to listen to music through standard computer speakers. A good speaker system is chosen based on personal preferences. Such a pleasure is not cheap; in addition, sometimes difficulties arise with selecting speakers with the required parameters. In this case, you can make a speaker system with your own hands. In our article we will look at how to make a subwoofer from a regular speaker.

What is a subwoofer?

Subwoofer is derived from two words - SUB and WOOFER, which is the literal translation of “subwoofer” and means an acoustic system capable of reproducing sounds at low frequencies, for example from 20 to 100 Hz. Many users prefer to call it a “bass speaker”.

Subwoofers are divided into two types:

• Active subwoofer - the speaker housing contains an amplifier and power supply.
• Passive subwoofer - it does not have an external amplifier.

Speaker selection

In order to choose a speaker, you need to decide on the dimensions, you can make a drawing and use it to make a speaker. The following models are available on the modern market:

1. Speakers that have a 6-inch buffer typically provide an additional source of mid-bass. The use of such speakers in terms of sound depth creates a rather modest device that is suitable for a small salon with an average sound system.
2. Speakers using an 8-inch subwoofer are used for additional front-facing bass.
3. The ideal speakers for a subwoofer in a car are speakers of 10 inches or more. They really have high-quality sound and fill the space with a powerful and pleasant vibration of sound. The speakers are placed in a closed compact housing or the so-called “closed box”, which is capable of providing good sound pressure. The best option for the car is a 12-inch speaker, which can be used in a box with a volume of up to 35 liters.
4. 15-inch speakers are a viable option for large car interiors. In this case, a box for a speaker of this diameter should be about 90 liters and occupy the entire luggage compartment. In addition, with such dynamics, you can become slightly deaf, so this option is unlikely to be implemented.

Important! It is necessary to determine the resistance, since a load of 1-2 ohms will greatly spoil the sound. The optimal impedance for a subwoofer speaker is 2 to 4 ohms.

The power of the speakers is definitely a difficult decision to make. There is only one rule, which is that the power of the speaker should be greater than the power of the amplifier. No speaker can function at maximum power for long, so it must have a “safety margin”.

Important! Users do not always have enough sound coming from a home theater. This problem is easily solved with the help of additional speakers. Click on the link to find out.

If you already have both a speaker and an amplifier, then you need to determine this difference and mark the maximum allowable volume for the subwoofer on the amplifier controls. No speaker can maintain sound quality at maximum volume.

Important! After some time (sometimes this situation can happen right away), the disturbed balance will begin to terribly hurt the ears.

How to make a subwoofer for a computer?

Self-manufacturing of a subwoofer is carried out in several stages:

1. selection of materials;
2. body design;
3. subwoofer assembly.

Let's look at all these stages in more detail.

Important! To make it easier for you to decide on the choice of speakers, pay attention to our ready-made one.

Selection of materials

How to make a subwoofer at home? When starting all work, there must be a diagram and the necessary materials for making the body must be selected. In order to make a subwoofer with your own hands, you need to purchase in advance:

• speaker - selected based on your needs;
• plugs - help connect the speaker to the player; they must perfectly match the connectors of your device;
• wires - used to connect the subwoofer;
• plywood with a multilayer base;
• trimmings of plumbing pipe;
• wood screws, which can be from the smallest to 50 mm in length;
• wooden blocks having different sections, which can be from 20x20 mm or more;
• silicone sealant;
• hard foam rubber or felt;
• PVA glue;
• dye.

Having prepared the necessary materials, you should collect the required tools:

1. a hacksaw for wood, which would have fine teeth;
2. chisel;
3. electric drill;
4. file;
5. jigsaw;
6. compass;
7. a simple pencil;
8. iron ruler;
9. screwdriver;
10. screwdriver;
11. sandpaper - from coarse to “zero”.

Housing design

We begin to design the housing of the future subwoofer. To do this, we use a computer and a speaker, which serves as the “heart” of the subwoofer.

Important! In this case, it is very important to have data on all the technical characteristics of the speaker. These include total quality factor, free space resonance frequency, and equivalent volume. All these values ​​are present in the passport data.

We download a special program to the computer device. We enter all the speaker data into the software product. Based on the values ​​provided, the program will calculate the optimal dimensions of the subwoofer box for you.

Important! The WinISD 0.44 program is capable of designing 4 types of subwoofers. The most optimal box, which is capable of operating with maximum efficiency, is a bandpass. The speaker of such a device is attached to a jumper located inside the box. This subwoofer is equipped with two chambers and two bass reflexes. To make a bass reflex, you can use trimmings of a plumbing pipe. The program can calculate the length on its own, but you must specify the diameter value.

Now let's proceed directly to designing the subwoofer box itself. All actions should be carried out slowly, since the slightest inaccuracy in measurements can cause inconvenience, and the whole work will have to start all over again.

Subwoofer assembly

Before you begin assembling the subwoofer, you need to cut out the box. How to make a subwoofer for your home with your own hands:

• Using a ruler and pencil, we draw the contours of the future box on a sheet of plywood.
• We cut the plywood sheet using a hacksaw or jigsaw with a speed controller.

Important! You should cut slowly, without rushing, because if you rush, the plywood can delaminate, which will negatively affect the sound quality of the subwoofer in the future.

• To ensure that all edges are perfectly smooth and even, we clean them with special care with a file and sandpaper.
• We fasten the walls of the subwoofer together with bars, so you need to set aside the required length of the bars.
• We cut a hole for the speaker. The speaker will be located inside the subwoofer.
• In the jumper between the chambers, draw a circle with a compass, having a diameter slightly larger than the speaker diffuser.
• The edges must be perfectly even and smooth; to do this, we clean them with a file and sandpaper.

Important! When processing with a file, it should be held at a slight angle to avoid delamination of the plywood.

• The walls of the subwoofer will be attached with the help of bars, so we measure the appropriate length of the bars.

Important! The program indicates the places where two holes should be cut - they are used for bass reflexes.

• Solder the wires and necessary connectors to the speaker. The locations for attaching the wires can be found in the speaker instructions itself.
• We attach the speaker to the resulting hole. We make a mark for attaching the speaker to the sheet and drill.

Important! It is best to attach the speaker with special double-sided nuts, which are used in furniture production.

• Now let's start assembling the subwoofer housing. How to make a subwoofer for a computer? We insert a drill into the drill, the diameter should be two times smaller than the diameter of the screws used.
• We begin to drill at those points where the wall will be attached to other walls and bars.
• Now let's use glue. At the junction points of the bars and walls, apply a generous layer of glue. It helps to perform two functions - increasing the strength of the body and sealing joints.
• We connect the walls with self-tapping screws. We screw them in all the way, since the strength in the design of the subwoofer housing is critical. The corners must be straight.
• Attach the speaker. At the junction of the speaker and the wall you need to coat it with sealant.
• We drill an outlet hole through which the wires will pass.
• We pull the wires through the hole and cover the hole with sealant.
• Next we move on to soundproofing. The inside of the cabinet must be covered with sound-absorbing material, which contributes to the “softness” of the subwoofer’s bass. The presence of such material reduces the pressure on the walls.
• We attach the back wall.

In principle, the designed subwoofer is ready. The final touch is to check the build quality. We turn on the music and check for any extraneous sounds or noises.

Important! If you want to give your product a beautiful appearance, the plywood can be painted in the appropriate color or covered with fabric.

How to make a subwoofer for a car?

Let's look at how to make a car subwoofer for your steel friend from ordinary speakers.

Materials and tools for work

To do this, you need to prepare the following materials in advance:

1. speaker - you should not use a used device; it is best to purchase a high-quality product with all the documents in the store;
2. protective grille;
3. good quality glue - epoxy is best;
4. a socket that facilitates connection;
5. fiberglass;
6. wire having a diameter of 3 mm;
7. brush;
8. plywood;
9. chipboard sheet, the thickness of which corresponds to 16 mm;
10. self-tapping screws and nuts, which are used in the woodworking industry;
11. bolts;
12. polyethylene;
13. universal putty;
14. masking tape.

To work we will need the following tools:

• drill or screwdriver;
• jigsaw for wood.

Design

How to make a subwoofer from ordinary speakers with your own hands:

• We select a high-quality speaker. The more power it has, the louder the sound will be.
• Let's move on to designing the subwoofer box - similarly, you can use special software. Since we are building a subwoofer for a car, we will need a box with the highest efficiency, or it is also called a level 6 bandpass.

Important! The sixth level bandpass looks like a cubic rectangular object, inside of which there is one jumper. Our speaker will be fixed to it. In addition, such a bandpass has two holes, thanks to which bass reflex cameras are installed. In the absence of cameras, various tubes can be used. For example, tubes made of metal, polyethylene or just paper are quite suitable.

• It is very important that the housing is completely sealed. To do this, we use felt, foam rubber or ordinary cotton wool. The sealant layer inside should be about two centimeters.
• The roof of the subwoofer must have a removable structure and have high strength at the joint. Therefore, we use a layer of foam rubber and further strengthen the structure.

Important! The computer utility WinlSD 0.44 helps to correctly prepare all sizes. Based on the speaker's capabilities, it will calculate the optimal values ​​for your case. Your task in this case is to clearly and competently translate the provided figures into reality. The sound in this case will meet all expectations. It comes out clean and loud.

Subwoofer space

Now we need to find a place for our subwoofer. The most ideal option is to install it in the wing, but whether it’s right or left is up to you to decide. Some cars have a special configuration in the right wing, and there is more space for installing a subwoofer.

Important! When choosing an average speaker, a minimum of 28 liters of volume will be required for its normal functioning. The configuration and volume of the box itself is large, but this is not so important.

How to make a subwoofer for a car at home:

• We line the trunk with plastic wrap, then cover the trim with masking tape in two layers.
• We cut the fiberglass into pieces that correspond to dimensions of 200×200.
• We dilute epoxy glue. To do this, mix a can of resin and a can of hardener.

Important! If you take more than the recommended amount of one of the proposed substances, the glue will become thick very quickly, and you will not be able to work with it efficiently. The ideal ratio is 1:1.

• Lubricate the cut pieces with epoxy glue and overlap them with tape.
• We cover the back wall of a self-made subwoofer with fiberglass. To do this, you need to lay three or even four layers of material.
• During the day, let the product dry completely.
• The next day we remove the resulting shell. Its thickness will need to be increased outside the trunk.
• Now we proceed to the bottom of the subwoofer, the top of which is made in the form of loops.
• We attach the front wall with self-tapping screws.
• The joints should be coated with epoxy glue.

Fine work

After the body of the homemade subwoofer has been designed, it is necessary to prepare it for the acoustic terminal, or the so-called speaker. On one of its walls, which are located on the side, it is necessary to mark the point of the future hole. This can be done by using an ordinary school compass.

Important! Subwoofers for a car with powerful sound are obtained when it is shielded with a small box. This is no longer the realm of homemade subwoofer construction, but a real version of art. This eliminates various overtones that may arise due to the rather flimsy design of the acoustic terminal.

How to make a car subwoofer complete and ideal in appearance and sound:

• We process the previously made square-shaped box with PVA glue and screw it using self-tapping screws to the side where the hole was cut out.
• Now we use a plane, which we use to cut off all the protruding edges of the body.

Important! In addition to the above skills, in this case you must have the skill of a carpenter, otherwise you will not be able to cope with such a task.

• There is a jumper inside our box. Next, using an electric jigsaw, cut a hole in the front panel.
• In this place we install the speaker, which is attached using self-tapping screws and glue.

Protective measures

When everything is ready, do not rush and immediately connect the homemade device. The creation must be protected from condensation and moisture. Moisture has a destructive effect on wood, and our creation contains a thin sheet of chipboard.

To secure and protect the case, it should be impregnated with a special nitro varnish, which is used in the furniture industry. In addition, it is imperative to impregnate the inside of the front panel.

Making a subwoofer from an ordinary speaker is not a task for an amateur. This will require a variety of knowledge and skills, but if you have them along with an irresistible desire to create the ideal acoustic system, then everything is in your hands. We wish you success!