How to check the heating element yourself with a multimeter - the right steps. How to check the serviceability of a heating element at home with a multimeter How to measure the resistance of a heating element with a tester
A device for heating water in the SMA is one of the main elements. During the operating cycles of the machine, the heating element first heats up and then cools down. This causes gradual wear of the spiral, which begins to lose its qualities. After some time, the heating device stops functioning. Let's figure out how to check the heating element of a washing machine.
Signs and causes of failure
As a rule, the machine continues to wash even cold water. To make sure that the heating device is malfunctioning, you need to understand the signs indicating a breakdown of the element. There are not so many of them:
- after the washing process, the laundry does not smell very pleasant;
- while the machine is operating, the glass on the loading hatch door does not heat up;
- things don't wash out.
The reasons for this problem include the following:
- Broken or shorted element. In such cases, the machine either does not work at all, or only works for a short time, because the remaining elements of the unit can easily become damaged and even burn out.
- Failure of the heating device circuit. In such situations, the heating element does not indicate any loss of performance, and the breakdown will be difficult to identify. But if the unit washes for a long time or periodically freezes, then the problem must be looked for in the break.
- Damage to the heating element relay. The device has a sensor responsible for the level of water intake. When the device is working, the water reaches the desired level, then the electronics receive a command to turn on the heater. It happens that the elements that control the amount of water become dirty during the period of operation. Therefore, you should clean the pressure switch and check the heating element sensor.
Often, users do not notice that the washing machine finishes the washing process untimely, or does not complete part of the program, and attribute such troubles to the electronics. And these are the first signals for help.
Where is the water heating element located?
If we consider different brands of machines (Indesit, Bosch, LG), then the heating element in each type of model can be located in different places, and it is most convenient to approach it either through the back panel or through the front.
But if you are not aware of this, you can still find it yourself:
- The back panel of the machine is inspected. If the lid is large, then the heating device is located behind it;
- The machine must be placed on its side and the bottom inspected. This may be how you detect the heater;
- The easiest way is to remove the back panel. If there is no heating element there, then it will be easy to install it in its place.
There is another option - use a flashlight to illuminate the inside of the drum of the machine. If you have good vision, you can determine the exact location of the heater.
Having found the heating element, you need to make sure that it is working. Note that for such a procedure there is no need to dismantle the element.
There are several ways:
- multimeter;
- fast and easy way hull inspections;
- determination of performance without a device.
When you don't have a tester at hand, try performing the test without opening the case. By observing the behavior of the washing machine, you can easily determine that it is the heating device that has failed:
- The water does not heat up, but the washing process is carried out. On machines with screens, signals indicating this error will flash. If there is no display, pay attention to the flashing lights.
- The work process does not stop, the water heats up, but this takes much more time.
- The machine works, the water warms up, but when touching the body part, electric shocks are felt, and the automatic protection is periodically triggered.
When at least one of the indicated malfunctions is detected, there can be no doubt - the heating element is not working well. If you cannot check your unit with a tester, we recommend that you seek help from a specialist. He will confidently determine whether there is a need to replace the element.
There are several other ways in which you can organize an element check without the appropriate tools:
- As soon as dark spots appear on the body of the heater, a breakdown can be confidently diagnosed. Sometimes such points are hidden by scale; it needs to be cleaned in order to finally be convinced of your thoughts. Lemon juice will help you deal with scale;
- don't want to disassemble your machine? In this case, just watch the operation of the electric meter. Start the machine at maximum. When the meter spins faster, this means that the heating element is still working;
- Check the case for bulges, scratches and other damage. Their presence will confidently confirm that the heating device needs to be replaced;
- Electrical experts can look for an open circuit using a home-made test light.
We call the device
Before checking the serviceability of the heating element, the washing machine must be disconnected from electrical network. After this, the wiring is disconnected, the tester switch is set to 200 Ohms, and its probes are applied to the water heater terminals.
The result of your actions will be:
- a functional element will display on the device screen a value close to the calculated value;
- if the tester displays “one”, then there is a break inside and the heater will have to be replaced;
- when the value is “zero” or close to it, a short circuit has occurred. Ten is not suitable for further work.
Checking for breakdown
Even if it's a spiral heating element completely fine, this does not mean that everything is normal. Perhaps the dielectric inside has leaked into the body of the washing machine, and this already poses a danger to your body.
To organize a test of the heating element for breakdown, set the tester to the “buzzer” mode. After connecting the wires, the lamp on the device should light up and a squeaking sound should be heard.
Now we use the tester to take the heating element terminal and apply the second probe to the body. If there is no squeak, then everything is in perfect order. Otherwise, heating device will definitely have to be replaced.
How is the resistance indicator of the heating element determined?
To check an element, it is not enough to know how and with what instruments this is done. It is necessary to have information about the value of its resistance. To begin with, it is recommended to calculate this value. To do this you will need the following information:
- Voltage supplied to the water heating element. As a rule, this indicator (U) is equal to 220 V. This voltage is present in the household electrical network of our apartments.
- The heater power indicator is R. It can be easily determined, you just need to look at the operating instructions. The second option - the power of the heating element can be checked on the Internet based on the model of the machine.
Having all the necessary information, we determine the resistance R using the special formula R=U²/P. The resulting resistance indicator is formed in the heater during operation. If the heating element is working properly, then the figure obtained by the formula will appear on the multimeter screen.
How to change the heating device?
We found the heating element and made sure that it should be replaced. First, disconnect all wires. To avoid confusion in the future, it is recommended to first record the order of their connection with a camera.
To remove the heating element, you need to unscrew the nut located in the middle part of the device. Now you need to pry the heater with a screwdriver and carefully remove it, rocking it in different directions. It is now recommended to immediately remove scale from other elements surrounding the water heater. The new heating element is carefully installed on special mounts. If you make a mistake, it will touch the tank during operation. All that remains is to connect the wires and assemble the machine to run it for testing.
In order for the heating device to work as long as possible, you should organize washing machine proper care.
When performing repair work, be sure to disconnect the washing machine from the electrical network.
Many people recommend first removing the heater from the machine and then checking its functionality with instruments. But this is probably not necessary - the check can be easily carried out at the installation site. This will save time and avoid unnecessary work.
Conclusion
Having proper experience in similar work and necessary equipment, you can always check the heater’s functionality yourself. Yes and renovation work It won’t be too difficult, because the heating element will have to be replaced with a new analogue. But if you doubt own strength– contact the service center for help.
When the washing machine does not heat the water or does not start the washing program at all, displaying an error on the display, most often it is a faulty heating element. And also in this case, the equipment may receive an electric shock, and if an RCD is installed, the protection will be triggered. The culprits for this are voltage surges, hard water and wear and tear. Only checking the heating element of the washing machine with a multimeter of any model will help you accurately verify the malfunction.
Error codes for heater failure: in Samsung - E5 or E6, in Indesit - F07, in Lg - NOT, in Bosch - F19, in Candy - E05, in some - the “no water heating” indicator is on.
Finding heating element in the washing machine
First you need to find a heater. But before doing this, be sure to turn off the power from the outlet.
In many models (Indesit, Lg and Ariston) the heating element is located at the back and only in Bosch and Siemens - in the front. If there is a large lid on the back of the washing machine, screwed on with hardware, then it is probably there. To get to it, just unscrew the bolts and remove the cover.
Another way to determine the location of the heating element is to look into the machine from below, carefully turning it on its side.
Checking the heater with a tester
Instructions on how to check washing heating element machine with a multimeter correctly, quite simple. To do this, first remove all wires from its terminals to ensure the reliability of the device readings. There is no need to unscrew or take anything out. The check is done in 3 steps:
First step
Set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode in the range of 200 Ohms. And before checking the heating element with a tester, we connect the probes to each other to ensure its accuracy. The reading on the display should be 0 or close to zero. Next, touch the left terminal of the heating element with one probe, and the right terminal with the second. The middle terminal (or fastening bolt) is always ground. We are not touching it for now, as we are checking the integrity of the heating coil.
If the heating element is working properly, then the multimeter will show a resistance in the region of several tens of ohms. For example, if the heater power is 1900 W (written on the heating element body and in the instructions for the machine), then its resistance should be equal to ± 25.47 Ohms.
This is calculated using a simple formula:
R=U²/P, where “U” is the network voltage (220 V), and “P” is the power of the heating element (in our example - 1900 W).
In the same way, you can determine the power of the heating element, knowing only its resistance and mains voltage:
In the case when the device shows “1” (infinity), this means a break in the spiral inside the heater. And if “0” is displayed on the screen, then the heating element is closed (shorted). In both cases you will have to buy a new heater. Its power and dimensions should be identical.
Advice! Before purchasing, be sure to pay attention to whether there is a temperature sensor in the heating element. The fact is that in some models of washing machines it is installed separately, and in others - in the heating element body. Therefore, it is important to buy the same one (with or without a hole for a temperature sensor).
It is advisable to move the original temperature sensor from the old one into the new heating element, if it is working properly. Or buy one with the same resistance. It is usually written on the side of the plastic socket. You can use a multimeter to make sure it is working properly., measuring the resistance on two contacts. If you dip the temperature sensor in hot water, then he must change his resistance.
Second step
Set the multimeter to diode testing or “buzzer” mode. When the probes are shorted, a working device will make a squeak and zeros will appear on the screen, which indicates the presence of a circuit.
We touch one probe to the right or left terminal of the heating element, and the second probe to the body or ground terminal. This is done in order to determine whether the heater is breaking through to the housing. If the multimeter beeps, it breaks. The heating element needs to be replaced, as this may cause the machine to receive an electric shock or not start at all. If the tester is silent, then everything is fine.
Final actions
Set the device to resistance measurement mode at the highest range available. Ideally, use a megohmmeter. Do the same as in the previous paragraph. Try not to touch the probes of the device with your hands during measurement.
This is necessary to check the insulation of the heating element for leakage current. After all, if there is even the slightest microcrack through which current flows, then very soon it will become larger and the heater will break through. In addition, if an RCD is installed in the house, it will constantly trip and turn off the power grid.
If the device readings are less than 2 mOhm, then it is better to replace the heating element immediately. The permissible insulation resistance is considered to be more than 2 mOhm. It is recommended to ring the chain before purchasing a new heating element. and check its insulation resistance in a store.
Checking the heating element without a device
When it is not possible to check the heating element with a multimeter, then you can approximately determine its serviceability using:
Still, a multimeter or megohmmeter is preferable, since check the tensile strength washing machine with the greatest accuracy it is possible only with them. By the way, the same methods are applicable for testing heaters in boilers, irons, electric kettles, etc.
By measuring the resistance, you can determine the real power of the tubular electric heater and understand whether it corresponds to the declared power for the device and is sufficient for heating.
To determine power, we will use Ohm's law, the following formula:
P=U2/R, W, where P – Power, Watt; U – supply voltage, Volt; R – Internal electrical resistance, Ohm;
Calculation example
So, for example, when measuring you got a result of 20 ohms. Substituting into the formula, we calculate:
P, W Heating element power = 220 2 IN household network voltage squared / 20 Ohm heating element resistance = 2,420 W
Accordingly, the power of the heating element that we tested is 2420 W, which fully corresponds to the declared indicator in the passport. And considering that it passed all other tests successfully, it means that the problem is not in it and you need to look further, for example, ring the electrical circuits or measure.
If the multimeter shows a result of 100 Ohms, then the power will be only about 500W. This is naturally not enough for normal operation and full heating of water.
An increase in resistance can be caused by various processes: a decrease in the cross-section of the conductor, oxidation or contamination of contacts, etc. In any case, such a measurement will give you the necessary information for further search for causes.
As you can see, checking the operation of the heating element is quite simple; for this you only need a multimeter and a little free time. Many problems will be revealed by a simple test, and if this does not help, then by measuring the resistance parameters of the heating device.
And if you encounter any problem not described here, want to add something or find an error, write in the comments, it will be useful to many.
2016-12-09 Evgeniy Fomenko
There are several ways to check the heating element of a water heater with a tester and without it. First of all, you should calculate the resistance for your boiler. Calculation formula: R=U*U/P. U is the voltage, which is equal to 220 V, P is the power of the device.
For example, the resistance for the Ariston BLU R 100V model with a power of 1500 W will be calculated as follows: R=220*220/1500=32.3 Ohm. And for a Termex ER 200V water heater with a power of 6000 W, the resistance should be equal to: R=220*220/6000=8 Ohm. The power value is written in the operating instructions and on the factory sticker at the bottom of the tank.
First of all, the device is disconnected from the power supply. After this, remove the protective cover from the bottom of the water heater. To do this, unscrew the screws with a Phillips screwdriver and pry it up to open the latches. The insulation is removed from the connection to the tubular electric heater, the wires are disconnected and you can begin checking.
There are the following ways to test the heating element for serviceability:
To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible liner is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.
Characteristics and types
The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:
- Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity, aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
- Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
- Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.
The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones for connecting to hot water.
When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.
Features of gas connections
When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike water models, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:
- PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
- made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
- bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.
Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.
Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.
If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.
Causes of soil waterlogging
There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:
- clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
- aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
- high groundwater table;
- technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
- disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
- The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play a big role.
What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?
You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?
- the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutritional regime in the soil;
- arises oxygen starvation root-forming layer, which leads to the death of plant roots;
- the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become unavailable for absorption;
- intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.
Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies
Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:
- perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
- at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
- at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
- from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, china;
- from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.
What is important to know when planning site drainage
Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:
- at a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m they can grow on raised beds vegetables and annual flowers;
- water depth up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
- if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
- optimal depth of groundwater for Agriculture– from 3.5 m.
Is site drainage necessary?
Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.
Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?
Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?
Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?
A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.
Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, industrial building, and also in private households it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part, and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.
A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.
