How asters reproduce. Growing aster: variety selection, planting, care

Garden aster (Chinese) is an annual or biennial flowering plant, which is also called Calisthemma garden (Chinese) or Callistephus chinensis ( Callistephus chinensis). The plant belongs to the class Dicotyledons, order Asteraceae, family Asteraceae, genus Callistephus ( Callistephus). This genus is very close to the genus Astra ( Aster). Translated from Latin, the word “callistephus” means “beautiful wreath” - this is the name given to this flower by the French botanist Antoine Jussier in the mid-18th century, when he first saw the blooming miracle in the flowerbed of the Parisian botanical garden.

Garden aster (Chinese) – description, characteristics, photo

The root system of Callistephus chinensis is fibrous and quite widely branched, mainly located at a depth of 15-20 cm. Damaged roots are very easily restored.

The erect and hard stems of garden aster are green, sometimes reddish in color, usually very bushy, depending on the variety, reaching a height of 20 to 100 centimeters. The stem of the plant is covered with short hairs, and longitudinal grooves can be seen on the surface of the stem.

The leaves of the garden aster are alternate, dark green in color; in some varieties the leaf blade is slightly pubescent. Leaves located in the lower third of the stem are larger. Oval-rhombic length leaf blade from 3 to 7 cm with a width of 3 to 5 cm, the tip of the leaf is pointed. In the upper part of the callistephus stem, the leaves are smaller, with large teeth along the edge, and oblong. Both the top and lower leaves along the midrib and near the edge of the winged petiole, which is 3-7 cm long, ciliated. The number of leaf blades on the main stem varies from 6 to 19 pieces and depends on the variety.

The inflorescence of the annual Chinese aster is a basket consisting of numerous tubular and reed petals of the most varied colors and varying degrees of terry. In some varieties, the inflorescence reaches 18-20 cm in diameter, but more often there are varieties of asters with a basket size of 3 to 11 cm. The center of the flower is almost always bright yellow.

The basket is located singly, decorating the main stem and the tops of the side shoots. The outer part of the basket is protected by a wrapper formed by many oblong leaves (the outer ones are green, the inner ones are colorless, film-like).

The reed flowers of the garden aster are female, with three teeth at the top, and can have a wide variety of colors and shapes: in the form of a spatula, ribbon, boat, tube or curl. In non-double varieties of callistephus, reed flowers are located along the edge of the basket in one row, in semi-double and double varieties - in several rows. Moreover, in double asters, the tubular flowers are completely “hidden” under the reed ones.

The tubular flowers of Callistephus annua are located in the middle of the basket, forming a disc of varying diameters. They are usually small, painted bright yellow, although in some varieties of garden asters they are quite large (up to 1 centimeter long) and can have a color identical to the reed ones. Tubular flowers are bisexual, their petals are fused. Both tubular and reed flowers of the garden aster have tufts of thin hairs in their structure, which help the plant’s seeds to spread by self-sowing with the help of gusts of wind.

The callistephus fruit is an achene, which, depending on the variety group, can have different sizes and shapes. Most often it is pointed to a cone.

Where does Callistephus sinensis grow?

The homeland of Callistephus chinensis, of course, is China, but today garden aster is grown not only in Asian countries, but also in regions with colder climates, which became possible due to the painstaking work of breeders and thanks to the numerous varietal varieties that appeared as a result of their work. The Chinese aster has become a favorite decoration of flower beds and lawns of Russian flower growers, it is cultivated in the Baltics and the Far East, Mongolia and Korea, it is quite widespread in Bulgaria and the Czech Republic, it also does well in Central America, but for some reason it is not very popular among local lovers flower crops.

Classification of asters and varieties

Today in the world there are about 4,000 varieties of garden aster, forming more than 40 variety groups. In addition, thanks to breeders, the number of newly bred varieties increases significantly every year.

For ease of classification, asters are distinguished according to a number of characteristic features:

*among the varieties in the classifications both annual and perennial asters are presented

by plant height:

• dwarf asters, rarely growing more than 25 cm in height (varieties Gnome, Zarevo, Snow Pearl, Tanya's Bouquet, Triumph, Milady, Ballad, Granddaughter Anyutka, Granddaughter Katyusha, Granddaughter Mashenka, Granddaughter Nastenka, Little Queen, World of Dreams, World of Luxury, Music Box, Field of Miracles, Rhythm of Life, Pinocchio);
• low growing asters, which do not exceed 35-40 cm in height (varieties Vologda Lace, Summer, Baby Border, Autumn Olympics, Dwarf, Zarevo, Star Pearl, Snow Pearl, Talovchanka, Ribbon, Silver Miracle, Feuerkugel, Dwarf Royal Hot Pink);
• medium-sized asters, growing no more than 65 cm in height (varieties Snow White, Daria, Dragon, Eurasia, Bride, Spectacular, Isadora, Alice, Assol, White Nika, Blue Frost, Marina, Night Star, Naina, Smile, Anniversary White, White Ball, Raspberry ball, Lada, Morning haze, Pampushka, Rita);
• tall asters, reaching 80 cm in height (varieties Russian Beauty, Yunost, Blue Frost, Katyusha, Nadezhda, Nata, Cloud, Boretta, Violetter, Jewel, Quartz Tower, Changeable Blue, Krallen, Pink Crystal, Lady Coral, Madeline, Royal Peony);
• giant asters, growing in height by more than 80 cm (varieties Symphony, Royal, Cutting, Apricot King, Apollonia, White King, Pink King, Matador, Royal Size).

according to the shape of the bush:

• pyramidal bushes(aster varieties Night Star, Smile, Galina, Nata, Cloud, Suliko, Come il faut, Tourmaline, Queen in Red, Queen in Blue, Liliput, Ambria);
• columnar bushes(aster varieties Snow White, Berezka, Daria, Eurasia, Isadora, Assol, Belaya Nika, Marina, Blue Frost, Naina, Sashenka, Tanechkin bouquet, Timiryazevka, White ball, Katyusha, Katenka, Raspberry ball, Morning haze, Khavskaya silver);
• oval bushes(aster varieties Apollo, Waldersee, Sadness, Edelweiss, Snowball, Beauty's Heart, Martian, Maxi, Pink Scatter, Ruddy Sun, Khava bouquet);
• wide spreading bushes;
• wide dense bushes.

by flowering time:

• early asters, which begin to bloom in July. 83-106 days pass from germination to flowering (varieties Salome Brick-red, Midi, California Blue, Polesya Star, Carmen, Kirkvel, Summer Night, Raspberry Ball, Odarka, Polina, Roksolana, Ruby Stars, Sofia, Sasha);
• medium asters, whose flowering period begins in early August. 107-120 days pass from germination to the beginning of flowering (varieties Burma, Crimson, Blue Spider, Cloud, Heart of France, Samantha, Russian Beauty);
• late asters with the beginning of mass flowering at the end of August. 121-131 days pass from germination to flowering. (Varieties Tsarina, Anastasia, Gray Lady, Niobe, Venus, Oktoberfest, Elephant, Weiser, Violetta, Mount Everest, Beachwood Revel, Herbert Wunder, Ada Ballard).

according to the nature of branching:

• weakly branched;
• highly branched.

according to the structure of the bush:

• compact;
• spreading.

by inflorescence size:

• small asters(inflorescence diameter less than 4 cm) (varieties Apollo, Waldersee, Zarevo, Oktoberfest, Dick Ballard, Beechwood Ravel, Ada Ballard, Mary Ballard);
• medium asters(inflorescence diameter 8 cm) (varieties Belaya Nika, White ball, Galina, Raspberry ball, Khavskaya silver, Vologda lace, Oksana,);
• large asters(inflorescence diameter 9-11 cm) (varieties Snow White, Daria, Zephyr, Bride, Russian Beauty, Spectacular, Yunost, Blue Frost, Marina, Naina, Night Star, Katyusha, Lada, Suliko);
• giant asters(inflorescence diameter more than 12 cm) (varieties Isadora, Alice, Polesya Star, Queen of the Market, Unicum, Smile, Bride, Sonnenschein, Comet, Flamingo, Californian Gigantic, Californian Blue, Tien Shan Beauty, Hartz Carmesine, Aquamarine, Tatiana's Day).

according to the morphological structure of the inflorescences:

• tubular varieties– plants with inflorescences composed of tubular flowers;
• transitional varieties with inflorescences consisting of tubular flowers forming the middle and reed flowers bordering it;
• reed varieties, characterized by the complete absence of tubular flowers in the inflorescence or the maximum development of reed flowers, visually covering the tubular center.

by purpose:

• cut varieties(with a tall stem, long peduncles and large inflorescences);
• decorative varieties(including the dwarf and stunted group with multiple small inflorescences. Used for organizing flower beds, flowerbeds, ridges, etc.);
• universal varieties(include compact medium-sized bushes with long peduncles and inflorescences average size. They are suitable both for cutting and for planting in flower beds).

according to the shape of the inflorescences:

• flat asters(varieties Ada Ballard, Anmuth, Beechwood Ravel, Dick Ballard, Corallen Mittelblau, Medallion, Apollo, Waldersee, Sonnenkugel, Sonnenschein, Margarita, Salome Brick-red);
• flat-round asters(varieties Aurora, Ambria, California blue, Riviera blue, Feuerkugel, Dwarf royal blue, Dwarf royal hot pink, Olympic gold, Excellent gasfort, Excellent squeegee, Camilla, Victoria, Hohenpollern);
• hemispherical asters(varieties Bride, American bush, Victoria Baum, Margarita radiant, Early miracle, Riviera, Triumph, Tubular, Shenheit, Duchess, Zarevo, Malyshka, Nadezhda, Cloud, Galina, Vologda lace);
• globular asters(varieties Martianka, Torch, Snow White, Daria, Zephyr, Russian Beauty, Yunost, Oksana, Odarka, Eurasia, Blauer Turm, Opalfeuer, Roter Turm, Roter Berg, Duchesse Crimson, Duchess Carmia, Rosa Turm).

according to the structure of the inflorescences:

• simple asters(varieties Anemone-shaped, Sonnenkugel, Sonnenschein, Margarita, Salome Brick-red, Pinocchio, Petito, Edelweiss, Salome, Andrella, Rainboy, Madeline);
• semi-double asters(varieties Apollo, Anmuth, Waldersee, Madeline, Mignon, Cirrus, Rosette, Rose-Marie, Oktoberfest, Herbert Wunder, Violetta, White Waldersee, Matsumoto, Rosette);
• terry asters(varieties Golden Bouquet, Mix of colors, Queen in Blue, Queen in White, Royal Ball, Heart of France, Elegy, Winter cherry, Olympic gold, Isolde, Bride, Victoria, Hohenpolern, Ruby stars, Tanya’s bouquet);
• dense double asters(varieties Come il faut, Assol, Koster, Milady, Yesenia, Night Star, Giant Rays, Tatiana's Day, Aquamarine, Tourmaline, Pearl, Queen of Market, Dolce Vita, Magic Bouquet, Alla Borisovna, Galina Ulanova, Queen in Pink, Queen in Purple , Camilla, Elegy, Red Wine).

By color:

Despite the fact that there are a huge number of color options for garden aster, there is no classification according to this parameter. Annual Chinese asters come in white, red, pink, blue, violet, lilac, lilac, salmon, yellow, cream, and carmine colors. There are also two-color asters (for example, varieties Rosa Turm, Rainbow, Contraster, Gray Lady). Only green and orange asters do not exist.

Garden asters: types, varieties, photos and names

When describing varieties in variety groups, a combination of all of the above parameters is usually used. The most common varieties among amateur gardeners are the following varieties of annual and biennial asters:

• Needle variety, which is a medium-sized and tall, slightly or medium-branched aster bushes of columnar or pyramidal shape. The bush usually contains up to 12 hemispherical double inflorescences, the diameter of which reaches 10 cm. Reed flowers, fused into a kind of hollow needle, form up to 7 bordering rows along the edge of the inflorescence. The outer rows are located horizontally, and the middle and central ones are directed with the “point” upward. The middle, consisting of yellow tubular flowers, becomes noticeable only after the inflorescence is completely open. Aster flowering, which begins in July or August, lasts about 50 days. Unfortunately, these flowers are susceptible to fusarium disease and therefore require more careful care. The needle garden aster is suitable for universal use. Among all the variety, the following varieties of needle asters are popular:
  • Annual aster "Lima"– a variety related to medium and long flowering period. Flowering duration is about 50 days. The plant is from 60 to 65 cm high, the flowers are densely double, bright lilac in color, up to 12-14 cm in diameter.
  • Aster annual"Gala"- a strong, stable pyramidal bush up to 70-80 cm tall, with densely double inflorescences, the diameter of which can reach 12 cm. Aster flowering time is from early August to October. The color of the buds can be completely varied - from red and pink to beige and purple.

The variety is not susceptible to fusarium.

The variety has good resistance to fusarium. Grown for cutting.

Sometimes tubular flowers with a clear yellow tint are visible in the middle.

The variety is resistant to fusarium and adverse weather conditions. A universal variety, suitable for both cutting and growing in flower beds.

• Ostrich feather, which is a medium-sized and tall spreading bush. Up to 22 double flat-round inflorescences can bloom simultaneously on one plant. Reed flowers, resembling wide ribbons, are twisted into peculiar curls. The flowers form a lush tuft that visually covers the middle. Asters bloom in early August and delight with their beauty for at least two months. The variety is used for cutting. The best varieties asters:
  • Aster annual "Hel ruby ​​mouth"- a plant 50-65 cm high with a spreading bush and bright ruby ​​inflorescences up to 13 cm in diameter. A medium-early variety in terms of flowering, it is practically not affected by fusarium.
  • Annual aster "Ostrich Feather white"- a variety with wide spreading bushes, the height of which does not exceed 0.65 m, and double giant hemispherical inflorescences of snow-white color. Characteristic feature variety has long reed flowers, curled like women's curls.

The height of the bushes does not exceed 65 cm. Suitable for both flower beds and cutting.

Asters: planting in open ground and care

Garden aster propagates only by sowing seeds in open ground or by seedlings. Regardless of the planting method, aster seeds must be of good quality, so it is better to purchase them in specialized stores.

Preparing seeds for planting

In order for the seedlings to be strong and healthy, the planting material must first be prepared. There are several methods that give good results:

• Germination– simple and effective method activation of the vital forces of seeds. To do this, aster seeds are wrapped in soft cloth and generously moistened with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. To prevent the planting material from drying out, the bundle must be moistened with a spray bottle. A week later, the seeds, together with gauze, are placed in a plastic bag and taken to a room with a temperature of about +22 o C. After two or three days, aster seeds can be planted in the ground.
• Soak- a more accelerated method that allows you to plant seeds in seedling containers after 10 hours. To do this, they are simply soaked in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or succinic acid. This measure will make the seeds more resistant to possible diseases.

Depending on climatic conditions It is necessary to grow aster seedlings during the period from last days March to the second week of April. This makes it possible to admire the beautiful blooming inflorescences already at the end of July.

Substrate

It is advisable to use purchased soil with a high peat content as a substrate, after mixing a little coarse calcined sand into it. However, you can prepare planting soil for asters yourself. To do this, mix ordinary land, taken from the garden, peat or humus with sand in a ratio of 3/1/0.5. After that, wood ash is added to the resulting substrate and mixed thoroughly again. To disinfect the resulting soil and prevent infection of aster seedlings with fungal diseases, it must be calcined in the oven for 1-2 hours or spilled with a hot solution of high concentration potassium permanganate (dark cherry color).

Planting aster seeds for seedlings

A seedling box about 7 cm deep or special cassettes are filled with prepared substrate, which is moistened abundantly. Then, using a match or a toothpick, holes or grooves no more than 0.5 cm deep are made on its surface, into which the sprouted or soaked aster seeds are carefully placed. The surface is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine peat or calcined sand.

To speed up the germination of seedlings and prevent rapid drying of the substrate, the containers are covered with plastic film or glass and taken to a room with a temperature of about 20-22 o C. Periodically, the soil surface must be irrigated with a spray bottle to maintain required humidity inside a mini greenhouse.

After a maximum of 9 days, shoots will appear, after which the covering material is removed, and the containers with seedlings are transferred to a cooler room with a temperature of +15-17 o C. As the substrate dries, watering is carried out, avoiding waterlogging.

After three true leaves appear on the aster seedlings, the seedlings are picked. For this you can use both special containers and small disposable cups. It is advisable to add a little universal fertilizer to the soil for pickled seedlings and prepare the holes. The substrate in the container with the seedlings is first moistened to make it easier to remove and prevent damage to the roots.

The picked aster seedling is placed in the hole so that the lower leaves are at a height of at least one centimeter from the surface of the substrate. Water the transplanted aster, trying not to get it on the leaves of the plant. The planted plants are placed in a bright and warm room with a temperature of no more than 20 o C. If the room is lit by direct sun rays, arrange light shading so as not to cause sunburn on the leaves of a young plant.

The noble aster is shrouded in myths and legends. The most romantic of them is about the origin of the plant. Tradition says that falling stars, as soon as they touched the ground, turned into bright flowers amazing beauty. And, the more asters grow, the more often secret desires are fulfilled.

One can only guess what many people dream about while peering into the night starfall. Although one of the desires of gardeners is quite predictable: to grow the rarest and most spectacular types of flowers on their plot. Our article is devoted to how you can “snatch stars from the sky” and grow your favorite varieties in your garden, how to properly care for them and protect them from pests.

not very simple. There are so many varieties of aster that official classifications of the plant have long been developed and adopted.

According to one of them, asters are divided into three species, ten types and more than forty series of varieties. The main difference is the shape of the flower.

You can imagine the type of aster by its name. Within each series of varieties, plants differ mainly in the color of their petals. You can choose suitable flowers according to the purpose of the variety.

Plant types are divided into:

• Casing.
• For cutting.
• Potted.
• Universal.

There are perennial and annual plant species.

When selecting a variety, you can focus on the height of the flowers. They can be both tall and completely dwarf, creeping along the ground.

The most popular varieties and series of varieties:

• Ray aster Delight. It lasts a long time in a bouquet.
• Andersen's Astra. A low-growing plant.
• Alpine aster. Looks good mixed flower arrangements. It has abundant and long flowering.
• Royal aster. Has a dwarf size.
• Mongolian aster. Grows up to one meter in height. Lavender flowers.
• New Belgian asters. Suitable for border decoration. The variety is popular due to its late flowering period.
• Italian aster. Flowers are purple and pink.
• Thompson's Astra. A perennial species of asters with blue petals.

In the composition of autumn landscape design, these flowers act as the main color spot. Asters are usually not used individually. and mixed arrays, selecting suitable neighbors. The most advantageous option would be to plant several varieties of flowers together. For example, tall with dwarf, needle-shaped with tubular. Ensembles made from asters of different shades look impressive.

You can supplement the plants with chrysanthemums, anemones or polygonum. Such neighbors will hide the bottom and highlight the bright caps of asters. Ornamental cereals will be a good match for them.

It is for their diversity and versatility that asters have gained popularity among garden flower lovers.

Asters feel great and bloom luxuriantly in places with good access to sun. Despite the need for an open, unshaded area, reliable protection from drafts should be considered.

Important for flowers:

• Soil drainage.
• You can plant asters in an area where marigolds, calendula or perennial herbs previously grew.
• Planting the crop should be avoided in places where carnations were grown.
• The optimal temperature for flowers is 16 degrees Celsius.
• Humidity – about 65%.
• In extreme heat and drought, the quality of the inflorescences decreases. Part of the seed harvest is also lost.
• Contraindicated for aster: permanent dampness, relatively shallow groundwater and too much soil moisture.
• Despite the fact that asters can be classified as a plant species with increased drought resistance, during prolonged heat, abundant watering should be provided. It is especially important to monitor the quality of watering during the period of bud emergence.

Like other types of plants, for abundant and long-lasting flowering, asters need feeding:

• At the first stage, when digging in the fall, humus is added to the soil.
• Then two weeks after transplanting the seedlings.
• You can feed the flowers again at the moment when the buds are set and blooming.
• In this case, fertilizers should not contain nitrogen.
• Mineral-based mixtures should be chosen, avoiding the use of organic substances.

The advantage of the plant is that it is resistant to night frosts.

When other flowers have already prepared for winter, autumn perennial varieties of aster turn into dense bushes strewn with large caps of flowers. Flowering duration is about six weeks.

Asters are picky in choosing soil. They prefer fertile, sandy and loamy soil. In spring, you need to mulch the soil around the plant stem. You should not plant annual asters in one place for two seasons in a row - the likelihood of infection of the bush increases.

Astra refers to unpretentious appearance garden crops.

If you follow the basic rules of care, right up to winter, the grateful plant will delight its owners with lush flowers, from which you can create luxurious autumn bouquets.

Asters can be propagated either by sowing seeds or by seedlings.

• The mixture must be disinfected by first calcining it in the oven and spraying it with a solution of foundationol.
• Sow seeds after March 15th.
• If you need to plant them earlier, you need to carry out additional lighting.
• Sprinkle the planting material with sand or sifted soil.
• It is better to treat the seeds with a fungicide before sowing.
• Don't forget to put up boards with labels if you plan to plant several varieties at the same time.
• The sown seeds are sprayed with water, and the containers with soil are covered with film.
• After germination (usually after 5 days), the boxes are moved to the light.
• If the young shoots begin to stretch out greatly, you need to add disinfected sand to the soil.
• When the first leaves appear, the shoots are planted one at a time into small pots with a diameter of 5 cm or into special containers for seedlings.

Seedlings are grown at a temperature of 15 degrees, providing intense lighting:

• If there is a lack of light, you can use lamps, placing them at a distance of 50 cm.
• Seedlings need to be illuminated continuously, for 14 hours a day, following a constant schedule of turning the lamps on and off.

Eight days after picking, you need to start feeding the seedlings:

• Urea will do.
• Then the seedlings are fertilized once a week.

It should be noted that the seedlings develop quickly and tolerate transplantation well. The main thing is to prevent crowded planting and ensure good watering.

Do not overdry young bushes or overwater them. Three weeks before planting, the seedlings are hardened off. To do this, it is necessary to take young plants out into the open air. This way the plants will be able to tolerate frosts down to minus 5 degrees. Asters are planted in open ground in May.

After transplanting, the seedlings are watered and mulched.

For seed propagation, prepare the material in early spring. It is necessary to cover the beds well before the first leaves appear.

You can sow an aster in winter. This must be done at a time when the soil freezes. In this case, thinning is postponed to spring. The advantage of the winter method is that flowers are less likely to become infected with fusarium.

To prevent the occurrence of most ailments, it is important to thoroughly disinfect working tools, substrate and planting material.

Despite the problems of growing, asters have firmly taken root in gardeners' plots. The main advantage of the culture is frost resistance and late, long flowering. When cut, they are distinguished by good durability, and countless different varieties will satisfy the most sophisticated tastes of flower lovers.

More information can be found in the video.

Ecology of agriculture: Perennial asters - a lot various types: Alpine, New Belgian, shrub, etc. Most often we have to grow them from seeds purchased

Pokrovka, September or October flowers are flowers that successfully decorate the autumn garden, becoming a bright colored ball at a time when everything around is already glowing with the colors of autumn. At the same time, not everyone knows that these perennial plants are close relatives of the annual asters familiar to all. In nature, there are about 500 species of perennial asters, but only a few are grown in garden culture, so we will consider only the most common ones.

Perennial asters, depending on the flowering period, are divided into early-blooming (spring), mid-blooming (summer) and autumn-blooming (autumn).

1. Asters are perennial with spring flowering.

Alpine aster, the cultivation of which from seeds among domestic gardeners is practiced more often than other varieties. A low-growing plant 15-30 cm high, with single inflorescences not exceeding 5 cm in diameter. Flowering begins in May a year after sowing and lasts about a month. In different varieties, the inflorescences may have white, blue, purple, pink and red colors of the reed flowers and an orange or brownish tint of the tubular flowers located in the middle.

Anders' aster is a low-growing plant with purple inflorescences.

2. Asters with an average flowering period, blooming from July to the end of August.

Italian aster with large corymbose lilac inflorescences (up to 5 cm) and spherical bushes reaching 30-70 cm in height.

Astra Frikara with dark purple inflorescences and bushes over 70 cm in height.

Sedum-leaved aster with small lilac flowers with a bluish tint, 2.5-3 cm in diameter, and a bush up to 1 m high.

3. Asters blooming in autumn.

Heather aster. A herbaceous plant with a bush height of 80-105 cm, straight stems and linear leaves. The inflorescences are small (about 1 cm in diameter), but numerous, the flowers are white. Drought and frost resistant. Flowering period is from September to October.

Bush aster. It has dense, densely leafy bushes 25-60 cm high. Early varieties of this species bloom in early autumn, dotted with white and pale blue inflorescences. In addition, due to its abundant foliage, the perennial bush aster is often grown as an ornamental foliage plant along with boxwood.

New England aster, also called North American aster. The average height of the bush reaches 160 cm. The bushes themselves are columnar and do not require additional supports. The inflorescences are small, 2.5-4 cm in diameter, numerous. Depending on the variety, they can be white, pink, purple, red, blue. They bloom in September-October and can retain a considerable number of inflorescences until frost.

Aster New Belgian or Virginian. Along with New England, it is considered one of the most common varieties. Within this species, there are low-growing perennial asters (up to 40 cm), the cultivation of which is especially popular when creating compositions, medium-sized (up to 75 cm) and tall varieties (up to 150 cm). Paniculate inflorescences with an abundance of flowers up to 2 cm in diameter tightly cover the bush. The colors of reed flowers are dominated by purple, blue, red, white, and various shades of pink.

Reproduction of perennial aster

Unlike its annual relative, the perennial aster propagates effectively in several ways: by seeds, dividing the bush, cuttings and vertical layering.

1. Perennial asters: growing from seeds.

It is worth noting that this method is most often used when growing alpine aster from seeds, but is used extremely rarely for other species, since the seedlings turn out to be quite weak and do not always inherit the maternal qualities.

Sowing is carried out in the fall immediately after collecting the seeds. If the flower you choose is alpine aster, growing from seeds of which is more common, then it is better to sow it in the spring, when the soil warms up. With the onset of warmth, seedlings appear, which are left at the planting site until autumn, when they are transplanted to a permanent place. Caring for young plants, from germination to transplantation, is simple and consists of timely watering, periodic fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers, loosening the soil and weeding. For the most part, it is similar to growing annual asters from seeds in open ground before flowering begins.

2. Perennial asters: propagation by dividing the bush.

Perennial asters can be propagated by dividing the bush when the plant reaches 4-5 years of age. Simultaneously with dividing the bush, the plant is transplanted to a new area, since the period of keeping asters of this type in one place should not exceed 5-6 years.

Asters are propagated in this way both in spring and autumn. Bushes recommended early varieties, blooming in spring, divide in autumn, and for late varieties The optimal time for dividing the bush will be spring. To do this, adult bushes are dug up and the roots are freed from the soil. Moreover, in the fall this is done approximately four weeks before the onset of frost, and in the spring until the buds are completely swollen. When dividing a bush into parts, segments with stems and roots are separated with pruners. You must first make sure that the separated part will have a young, developed root system and 3-5 healthy shoots. It is better to remove old rhizomes altogether, but young ones can be trimmed a little.

3. Perennial asters: propagation by layering.

Reproduction by vertical layering is possible for 4-year-old bushes of perennial asters. To do this, the shoots are cut off in early spring, leaving stubs of 1.5-2 cm. At the same time, in order to obtain more planting material, it is necessary to provide the plant with proper care, namely timely watering and fertilizing. When the shoots grow to 10-15 cm from the base, they are spudded. The center of the bush must be densely covered with earth to avoid the stems getting closer together. After 20-25 days, secondary hilling is carried out. It is advisable to do it after rain or heavy watering.

The separation of layering is carried out in the fall or early spring of the next year. When transplanting, plants are pruned, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on them. Flowering of asters grown from cuttings should be expected no earlier than in a year or two.

4. Perennial asters: propagation by cuttings.

The largest number of young plants is obtained during reproduction perennial species asters by cuttings. The starting material in this case will be apical shoots 10-15 cm long, which are planted in a shaded place under a film cover. Rooting of cuttings occurs within a month.

When preparing cuttings, the lower cut is made obliquely, and the upper one should be straight, located half a centimeter above the bud. To reduce evaporation, the upper leaves are shortened and the lower ones are completely removed. It is better to keep the cuttings in water before planting. Also, for better survival, they can be treated with a growth stimulator in accordance with the instructions. The lower part of the cutting is placed in the drug solution to a depth of no more than 2-3 cm for 12-15 hours. It is important to avoid getting the drug on the leaves.

Boxes, greenhouses or specially prepared beds with a film cover stretched over a frame are suitable for rooting cuttings.

The soil mixture for planting should consist of turf soil, sand and peat in a ratio of 1:2:2. The soil layer with the specified composition should be about 8-10 cm. Perlite, coarse sand or a mixture of equal parts of vermiculite and sand, sand and peat of your choice are poured on top in the same amount. For the purpose of disinfection, it is advisable to treat the resulting substrate with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. The cuttings are planted to a depth of no more than 10 cm at an angle. The optimal planting pattern is 5×5 cm.

After planting, it is important to water the cuttings abundantly and shade them.

For effective rooting of cuttings, it is necessary to create an optimal microclimate with diffused sunlight, air temperature of 22-25 degrees and humidity of about 100%. Sudden changes in temperature should be avoided. It is desirable that the soil temperature is 1-3 degrees higher than the air temperature.

High humidity is maintained during the first two weeks. At the same time, in hot weather, 5 sprayings of cuttings with water throughout the day are allowed, and on cloudy days, 2-3 sprayings will be enough. The leaves should be constantly moistened at this time.

The complete rooting time is 3-4 weeks, and the first signs of callus appear within 1-2 weeks after planting.

For growing, the resulting plants can be transplanted to a semi-shaded area. They can also be left at the rooting site until next spring, when they will already be fully developed plants with strong roots. The only thing is that for the winter it would be better to cover them with spruce branches, sawdust, straw, fallen leaves or peat. In May they can be safely transplanted to a permanent place.

Perennial asters, grown from seeds less commonly than other propagation methods, are a real highlight of the autumn garden and look great as cut flowers. They are resistant to heat and cold. And with basic care (No. 9) they will give you an abundance of bright fluffy star inflorescences. Perennial asters are probably one of the most favorite autumn flowers for many gardeners. Moreover, numerous graceful inflorescences and often late flowering periods are combined with the unpretentiousness of these plants to growing conditions. But at the same time, the decorativeness of the bush and abundant flowering can only be obtained by initially choosing a suitable place for the aster and providing it with basic care. So, perennial asters: planting and care.

Where to plant perennial aster?

It is worth noting that perennial asters grow best on sunny areas or in partial shade. While an aster planted in a shady corner of the garden may gradually lose its attractive appearance and bloom weakly or not at all. In addition, this location, along with the likelihood of water stagnation in the soil, usually contributes to the development of various kinds of diseases.

When choosing a location, you must also pay attention to the mechanical composition of the soil. Despite the undemanding nature of plants to this factor, neutral light and medium-heavy nutritious loamy soils with good moisture and air permeability are more suitable for perennial asters.

When planting, tall varieties, for example, New Belgian aster, try to be placed in areas protected from drafts and winds, so that they do not destroy the bush.

It is recommended to prepare for planting perennial asters in advance by digging and fertilizing the soil with organic (humus, compost, peat) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphates, potassium fertilizers), since they, like annual asters, grow and bloom much better in properly planted areas. If the acidity level in the soil is increased, then you can additionally add dolomite flour or lime (about 200 g per 1 square meter). If the soil is heavy and has poor drainage, then coarse sand is added to it for digging.

Perennial aster planting technology

When planting asters, it is important to consider the height and characteristics of the bush. Thus, low-growing asters are planted in the ground according to a pattern of 20×30 cm, medium-sized ones - 30×50 cm, and tall ones - 50×80 or 60×100 cm. For example, the bush aster, the planting and care of which is not much different from other perennial species , can have a bush height of 25 to 60 cm, depending on the characteristics of a particular variety, and the bushes themselves are highly branched and abundantly covered with foliage, therefore it is better to plant it less often than the same alpine aster with single inflorescences and less voluminous bushes.

Seedlings of perennial asters obtained as a result of root division, or seedlings grown in a separate area and cuttings are planted in a permanent place in well-dug, loosened and already fertilized soil. Depending on soil moisture, both double watering is possible (in holes and on top of compacted soil in dry weather), or single watering on top of slightly compacted soil when planting in sufficiently moist soil. It is important to ensure that the roots are not damaged and that the soil settles tightly around them and that no air pockets remain.

When planting asters, you should remember that they will grow in one place for 4-6 years, after which the bushes will need to be divided and transplanted to another area.

Perennial asters: care

For the most part, perennial asters common in our gardens do not require special care. The main thing is not to forget about timely watering (especially during drought, when watering is abundant, but not often, and during the period of active growth of the vegetative mass), periodically loosening the soil to a shallow depth (up to 7 cm) and removing weeds.

Mulching will make maintenance easier. A layer of mulch (such as weathered peat) is placed around the bush immediately after planting. Thus, a crust does not form on the soil around the plant, weeds grow less and moisture does not disappear so quickly, which is important in the heat.

If the soil is nutritious or well-dressed before planting, then additional feeding of asters is not necessary. At the same time, they will respond positively to fertilizing with water-soluble complex or phosphorus-containing fertilizers during the budding period, as well as to liming during the growth stage.

Depending on the characteristics of a particular species, there may be some nuances in caring for these plants. Thus, the bush aster, the planting and care of which is generally identical to the agricultural practices of other species, may require more attention to the formation of the bush by trimming the tops, which will not only stimulate the growth of lateral shoots, but also obtain neat living fences that will be strewn with flowers by autumn . Pinching the tops of other profusely flowering varieties helps increase the number of inflorescences.

Tall species such as New England aster, especially if they grow in partial shade or the bushes are too dense, sometimes require gartering to additional supports. To do this, use specially driven pegs or initially plant plants along the fence.

During flowering, in order to prolong it and preserve the decorative appearance of the bush, you should definitely remove faded inflorescences.

Disease and pest control

Perennial asters themselves are very resistant to various kinds of pests and diseases. But under unfavorable weather conditions or insufficient care, they can be affected by gray rot or powdery mildew. The best prevention of the disease can be correct agricultural technology, in particular, sufficient distance between plants, and sometimes it is recommended to spray asters with solutions containing copper (copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, approximately 10 g per 10 l) or with special preparations (Gumi, Fitosporin, Topaz) in accordance with the instructions. Sometimes, as an alternative to chemicals, a soap solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 40-50 g of soap and 30-50 g of soda ash is used. Plants are treated with it 3-4 times per season with an interval of two weeks.

Sometimes gardeners are faced with the problem that the middle of the aster bush begins to dry out, and the young side stems seem weak and the flowers become smaller. This is a sure indicator that the plant requires rejuvenation, and simply put, the bush needs to be divided and the resulting plants transplanted to a new location.

Preparing for winter

Most types of perennial asters, especially heather aster, are frost-resistant and do not require additional insulation for the winter. When flowering has ended, it is recommended to cut the asters at the root, and fill the soil above the bush with compost, dry leaves or a layer of garden soil, which can serve as mulch in the spring. Also, young, fragile plants may need winter shelter from spruce branches, leaves, etc.

Perennial asters, which can be planted and cared for even by a novice gardener, are often planted as borders or hedges. They look great in gravel gardens and alpine slides. They are valued for their late flowering, which looks spectacular both next to other flowering perennials and evergreen coniferous bushes. Planted in single clumps or single-varietal groups, during flowering asters look like huge bouquets dotted with many elegant inflorescences. published

For many flower growers this herbaceous plant known under the name Septemberberry, which has a highly developed rhizome with tall, erect shoots.

The leaves on the shoots are small, lanceolate in shape, the inflorescences are small baskets not exceeding 5 cm in diameter. The flowers are predominantly crimson to purple, there are also pure white ones.

All asters are conventionally divided into 3 groups: early spring, summer and autumn.

Alpine aster belongs to the early spring group. Flowers appear on the bushes in May-June. This is a low rosette plant, flowers up to 6 cm in diameter. Flowering is abundant, begins at the end of May and continues throughout June. Seeds are collected in August.

In mid-summer, the Italian aster, which belongs to the second group of asters, blooms. The shoots of this species grow approximately 60 cm high, the leaves on the shoots are alternate. Small baskets are collected in shields, the flowers are lilac-blue in color.

Flowering can continue until mid-autumn. Aster Bessarabian also belongs to the summer group. The height of such an aster bush can exceed 80 cm. Numerous flowers have a brownish center.

American aster, as well as New Belgian aster, belong to the autumn group. These species are distinguished by their high growth (2 meters or more), highly branched stems, and numerous inflorescences. These asters bloom from the beginning of autumn until the onset of frost. The New Belgian (Virginian) aster is distinguished by the fact that about 200 baskets collected in panicles can bloom on the shoots.

Growing, care, reproduction

Aster is a light-loving plant, blooms profusely in areas exposed to direct sunlight, loves loamy and medium-heavy soils. The rhizomes of the bushes quickly thicken, so the bushes must be replanted at least once every 4 years. An important condition for the proper development of plants is regular loosening of the soil and removal of weeds.

Watering is carried out moderately, and in hot weather and the growing season it is intensified. Asters need phosphorus fertilizers, as well as organic fertilizers.

Asters reproduce by dividing bushes and seeds. The first method is preferable, since when the bush is divided, the characteristics of the mother plant are preserved, and when propagated by seeds, the expected result is not always obtained.

Alpine aster is planted in the spring, or immediately after the flowers fade. The rhizomes of the late-flowering group of asters are divided only in the spring. The remaining species can be planted in spring and autumn, but it must be taken into account that plants planted in autumn may not bloom during the year.

Another way to propagate asters is by cuttings. Cuttings are cut from young shoots that grow slightly away from the main bush. Such cuttings take root very quickly, while retaining all the characteristics of the mother plant.