How to properly sharpen a tire on a chainsaw. Sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands: subtleties, effective methods

Proper use and care have a significant impact on the quality and performance of the tool. For comfortable work, you need to sharpen the chain on time. A dull chain can be taken to specialists or you can sharpen it yourself, especially since the whole process is not particularly complicated. You just need to acquire a certain skill, since the teeth on it have an unusual shape.

When to sharpen and how to find out about it

Problems that may arise due to untimely maintenance of the circuit:

• crooked cuts;
• increased fuel consumption;
• faster wear of the leading parts of the chainsaw and a reduction in its service life.

The rate at which teeth become dull depends on the frequency of use of the tool and conditions. It is enough to just catch the ground or stones a couple of times, and you will already need to sharpen the chainsaw chain.

Signs by which you can tell that the chain is dull:

• the instrument tries to escape from your hands and gets stuck;
• small shavings, almost dust, fall out;
• the saw deepens only with great effort;
• cutting time increases.

In addition, dull teeth can simply be carefully inspected. Signs of dullness will be visible even to the naked eye.

The earlier the chainsaw chain is sharpened, the less metal is ground off, which means it can last longer.

How and how to sharpen chain teeth

The saw chain teeth have a non-standard shape. They consist of a base, a blade and a depth stop. The blade has a vertical blade and a horizontal blade that falls at an angle. It is thanks to these blades that a chainsaw cuts wood. They work on the principle of a plane, cutting off pieces, and the limiter regulates their thickness (the difference in height between it and the horizontal blade will be the thickness of the chips). You can sharpen a chainsaw chain manually or using a machine.

Sharpening kits

One of the most common methods is with a set consisting of round and flat files, a holder, a stop template and a hook used to remove sawdust. To ensure the correct positioning of the holder, special markings are applied to it, allowing you to determine the correct angle for sharpening. It is installed on the upper part of the tooth and stop, while the round file remains under it and is located just next to the blade. Thanks to the holder, the file is at the correct height, or rather, protrudes 1/5 above the blade. To sharpen a cutting tooth, only round files are used, since the contour of the tooth has a rounded shape.

Kits must be purchased based on the chain pitch size. You cannot use the same sharpening kit for different chains.

Before you start sharpening a chainsaw chain at home, the bar needs to be secured in a vice or with a clamp, the main thing is that the saw does not move during processing. Having installed the holder according to the markings, begin to smoothly and without too much pressure, move the file strictly away from you 2-3 times. Similar actions are repeated with all other teeth. The file needs to be turned over from time to time to avoid one-sided wear. The pressure force and number of movements should be the same for everyone; this is necessary for uniform sharpening of all teeth. If they are different, then cracks may form in the chain, which will lead to its breakage.

To make it more convenient to work, first the teeth on one side are sharpened, and after that the saw is turned over and the teeth on the other are aligned.

They start sharpening with the smallest tooth so that the length of all the others is the same. After the work on processing the blades is completed, they move on to the limiters. Place the template from the kit on top of the chain in such a position that the limiter is in the hole. The protruding part is ground off with a flat file.

The video shows an example of how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file:

There is another set that, instead of a holder, has one template, both for sharpening the blade and for grinding down the stop. Install it so that the chain fits into the holes. After that, a round file is placed on top of the rollers and brought under the blade. During sharpening, you need to ensure that it is always parallel to the side edges of the template.

There are 2 separate holes for the limiter, labeled Soft, which means for soft wood, and Hard, for hard wood. The protruding part from the slot is ground off with a flat file.

Sharpening is carried out only from yourself and with smooth movements, the number of latter should be the same for all teeth.

This system allows you to sharpen the chain in a few seconds, without even removing it from the bar. The kit includes a PowerSharp chain, abrasive bar, saw bar and sharpening device. In order to sharpen a chain with it, you will need to take the following 3 steps:

• install the PowerSharp bar and chain;
• Fix the beam inside the sharpening device, after which it is installed on the tire;
• The end of the chainsaw is rested on some object and started for a couple of seconds.

The video below shows in more detail how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands using this system:

Manual and electric machines

If the teeth are severely ground down and the cutting blade has lost its shape, then aligning them manually will take a lot of time. In this case, a manual or electric machine with a sharpening wheel is usually used. The first type of device looks like a bow saw with a round file. The machines are stationary and mobile, which can be installed directly on the tire.

Start setting the necessary parameters from the smallest tooth. After all the teeth are sharpened and aligned, the round file is replaced with a flat one to sharpen the stops.

The advantage of electric machines is that the disc is placed directly under the blade being sharpened. In addition, the quality of sharpening in this case is guaranteed and all teeth will be the same size.

The video below shows an example of sharpening a chainsaw with your own hands using an electric machine.

The blades are always sharpened first, and only then the stops.

The sharpening angle can be changed - it depends on the purpose. For cutting hard wood, a smaller angle is used, and for soft wood, a larger one. In any case, it should be from 25° to 35°. A 10° angle is used for chains intended for longitudinal cutting.

The quality of a construction tool is not just a matter of efficiency, but also of work safety. That is why you should carefully monitor the condition of the working parts of any tool, including chainsaws. It is necessary to sharpen the chain in a timely manner and it is not necessary to contact a specialist: you can carry out the entire process yourself. Below is a detailed description of the technology for sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands (video instructions are attached).

Sharpening a chain on a chainsaw: the need for the procedure and the subtleties of its implementation

In order not to waste your time in vain, you need to know for sure that the chain on the chainsaw is already dull. This is quite easy to determine. So, a well-sharpened saw gently and quickly enters the tree. If you feel even the slightest resistance while working with wood, this is the first sign that the chain is already dull and should not be delayed in sharpening it. The fact is that chain wear can affect very important indicators in the following ways:

• tool productivity decreases;
• fuel consumption increases greatly;
• The chain links are overloaded, thereby reducing the service life of the tool.

Chainsaw

In order to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain, you need to have special skill, and it can only appear if you have an understanding of the structural features of the saw. The fact is that the teeth of the chain have a rather complex and unusual structure, and accordingly, the sharpening process turns into a rather painstaking task.

So, the edge of the chain is densely covered with teeth, which have 2 edges: top and side. One chain link is represented by a base, a blade and a depth stop.

How quickly the saw chain becomes dull depends directly on the load on the tool and the conditions in which the work is carried out. So, all you need to do is hit the stone or ground with the saw a couple of times and you will have to sharpen the chain.

The best ways to sharpen a chainsaw chain

There are several ways to sharpen chainsaws, each of which has its own advantages and features. Further details about each of them.

Sharpening with a file

Sharpening with a file is one of the most common, simple and effective ways to sharpen a saw. Most often, specialized stores sell ready-made kits (sometimes together with a saw) for sharpening electric and chainsaws. The simplest set consists of the following elements:

• a cylindrical file installed in a holder;
• flat file;
• hook and template to determine the desired stopper depth.

Sharpening with a file

Use a file to sharpen the teeth of the chain carefully, smoothly, without putting excessive pressure on the tool. It is advisable to secure the tire before starting work. After this you can start working. So, we install the holder on the tooth being sharpened, hold it in one position and lightly press the file against the edge being sharpened. After this, we make several smooth movements from ourselves.

We repeat the process in a similar way with all the remaining teeth. It should be remembered that all teeth must be sharpened equally. This can be achieved by using the same force to sharpen each tooth and performing an equal number of movements.

Advice. During the process of sharpening chain teeth, it is necessary to periodically turn the file in a circle. This will avoid severe wear of the sharpening tool on one side.

Sharpening with a grinder

This method is considered one of the simplest and most accessible, but with one caveat: if you have a grinder at hand and know how to use it. Otherwise, the sharpening process may not be so simple.

Sharpening can be done using a grinder

The peculiarity of this sharpening method is that the chain does not need to be removed from the saw while sharpening its teeth. For sharpening, you should prepare a previously used metal disc with a thickness of about 2.5 mm.

The grinder should be set to minimum speed, and the process itself must be carried out, gradually moving in order from one tooth to another.

Sharpening on a machine

Unfortunately, in some cases, manual sharpening of teeth is not enough. This occurs when the saw has been used so often and without regard for the consequences of careless use that the edge of the blade turns into something shapeless. It is for such cases that a machine can be considered the best option.

To sharpen chain teeth, one of the following types of machines is most often used:

• Manual machine. This is more of a special device than a machine. The working part of a manual machine is similar to a bow saw, however, a cylindrical file is used here. The mechanism of such a machine is quite complicated, but with careful adjustment it is capable of completing the sharpening process in the most precise manner.

Saw sharpening machine

• Electric machine. Sharpening is carried out directly by an abrasive disc built into the machine. Automatic tuning allows you to set the optimal parameters quickly and in the best way. In addition to the machine, in some cases there is a protective mask that will prevent sparks and chips from getting into your eyes.

That's all you need to know in order to quickly and competently sharpen your chain. Good luck!

How to quickly sharpen a chainsaw chain: video

Absolutely all owners of chainsaws sooner or later face the need to sharpen the chain.. This problem can be solved in two ways - either take the chain to a specialized workshop, or sharpen it yourself. With the first option, everything is clear, but if for some reason contacting a sharpening center is impossible (for example, the chain became dull while working at the dacha, and the nearest workshop is hundreds of kilometers away), you will have to deal with it yourself. We will tell you how to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly in this article.

How can you tell if a chain is dull?

Unfortunately, in many cases sharpening is not carried out in a timely manner - the user simply does not notice the signs indicating that the chain has become dull. This, in turn, leads to a drop in performance, destruction of the tire and drive sprocket, and a decrease in the service life of the chainsaw. To avoid such problems, while working, pay attention, firstly, to the type of chips: if they become darker and smaller, this is a clear sign that the chain requires sharpening.

Secondly, it’s worth taking a closer look at the teeth of the chain - in many cases, dullness can be seen with the naked eye.

Thirdly, the need for sharpening can be determined by a noticeably reduced level of productivity - sawing becomes noticeably more difficult, the work takes longer.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain

It is very important to follow several rules when sharpening. Therefore, before sharpening a chainsaw chain, we strongly recommend that you pay attention to them. Parameters such as the height of the cut stop and the sharpness of the cutting link angles must correspond to the values ​​​​set by the manufacturer. In addition, it is very important that the dimensions of all cutting links of one chain are identical. Otherwise, performance may be reduced and engine load and vibration levels may increase. Uneven load increases the likelihood of chain breakage.

You can use different tools for sharpening - it can be a file, a manual or electric sharpening machine. The use of each tool has its own nuances.

Sharpening with a file.

Files must be selected in accordance with the type of chain; in this case, the main selection criterion is its pitch. Depending on the shape, there are round and flat files. The first have a diameter of 3 to 6 mm and are used for sharpening the cutting tooth. For flat ones, the width varies from 4 to 12 mm; they are used to remove a control tooth.

• - sharpening must be done in such a way that one fifth of the file protrudes above the cutting edge
• - you need to move the tool not back and forth, but only in one direction, and the number of movements for each tooth should be the same. This is necessary to ensure that the stitching occurs evenly.
• - every two or three sharpenings of the tooth the cut stop should be sharpened

Sharpening is carried out as follows:

• - having previously installed the chain brake, firmly hold the chainsaw between your knees
• - place the template so that the “arrows” point to the “nose” of the tire. Don't forget to mark the tooth where you started sharpening with chalk.
• - moving the file away from you, in the direction indicated by the arrows, sharpen
• - using a flat file and an onlay, remove the control tooth. In this case, the direction of movement of the file can be any.

It is worth noting that working with a file requires certain skills, so if you lack experience, it is not recommended to sharpen an expensive chain.

Sharpening by hand

Essentially, the machine performs the same role as the gauge, but with significantly higher accuracy. Sharpening is done as follows:

• - first loosen the chain clamp adjustment screw slightly
• - install the chain in the guide groove so that the links are directed towards the sharpening stone
• - set the required sharpening angle. An angle of 30 degrees is considered standard, however, there are other options (it all depends on the application of the chain). Polarity (signs “+” and “¬¬-”) must be selected depending on which cutter you want to sharpen - left-handed or right-handed.
• - sharpen. There are two options, the first is sequential sharpening, that is, the cutters are processed one after the other, but in this case you will have to change the polarity each time. The second option is to sharpen every second incisor: first the left-handed incisors are processed, then the right-handed incisors (or vice versa, as is more convenient for you). Thus, by reducing the number of operations (you do not have to change the polarity every time), the speed of work increases.

It is important to follow some rules while working. Firstly, the optimal degree of sharpening is determined based on the length of the most dull tooth - it should serve as a guide. Secondly, it is not advisable to sharpen too deeply, as this reduces the strength of the link. After completing all the work, it is recommended to blow out the chain with compressed air and put it in clean oil for some time.

Find out how to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain at home using a file, grinder and machine. Detailed video of the do-it-yourself sharpening process. We'll show you how to use tools and equipment correctly.

The chainsaw is very convenient to work with. Despite the fact that the unit weighs 5–7 kilograms, or even more, when sawing a tree trunk into logs, you are simply amazed at how quickly it happens, and there is practically no fatigue. But then there comes a moment when the blade of the tool penetrates the wood more and more heavily. There is only one diagnosis - the saw is dull, so the chainsaw chain needs to be sharpened.

Those who encounter this for the first time are a little upset, because it is not clear whether to do it themselves or take the tool to specialists in a workshop. And what is the best sharpening method? But in fact, there is nothing wrong with this, and if you have the knowledge, you can easily sharpen chainsaw chains with your own hands. The correct strategy for resolving the issue in this case directly depends on the load on the unit.

If the chainsaw is used from time to time, several times a year, then buying a special sharpening machine or accessories may not make sense; it is easier to solve the problem by using the services of a service center. But if a chainsaw is a means of earning money or there is a desire to master the sharpening process yourself, then you should definitely purchase a sharpener or a machine and manually carry out this simple manipulation of the chain. Let's see below what the correct sharpening of a chainsaw chain is based on.

The difficulty of working with a dull chainsaw should not be confused with the difficulty of cutting hardwood or very dry logs. In all these cases, the speed of the operation is reduced, but the blunt instrument has a certain behavior - signs by which one can judge the need for sharpening:

• the chainsaw does not immediately bite into the tree trunk, as if grinding, moving away from the point of contact;
• when cutting soft wood, the tool sluggishly penetrates the thickness of the wood, you have to put pressure on the bar;
• the shavings from large ones with characteristic oblong particles turn into small thyrsus, which very rarely crumble;
• the chain heats up quickly, an unpleasant smell of burning oil for lubricating the guide bar is heard.

In addition to these alarming signals, always after hitting metal nails, wires with a chain, or burying a chainsaw in the ground, you can be one hundred percent sure of the need for subsequent sharpening of the cutting edges.

What can happen to the instrument in the future if the problem is ignored? The most harmless thing is that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw; in the end it will get boring and will force you to service the unit. But adherents of the saying “You don’t need intelligence to eat power” can come to the following conclusion:

• extra stress on the body, because, frankly speaking, you have to put pressure on the tool so that it cuts;
• excessive fuel consumption of up to 30%, which is explained by the need to go through a larger revolution cycle to achieve the same result;
• accelerated wear of the tire and other parts of the chainsaw.

In addition to all these negative consequences of a dull saw, there is a high probability of the chain jamming in the barrel and injury to the operator performing the work.

Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration

In order to be able to sharpen chains correctly, the first step is to understand what functional elements a single link, or cutting element, consists of:

1. The base is the lower part of the tooth, which has holes for connection with the remaining elements of the chain and during operation is hidden in the guide channel of the tire. It is this part that is lubricated.
2. A special limiter is a tooth design element that allows the cutter to remove only a certain thickness of wood chips in one pass. Thanks to it, the chain does not get stuck in the fibers and the chainsaw does not jam.
3. The so-called tooth blade is a cutter consisting of vertical and horizontal working surfaces that form cutting edges.

The tooth blades, or cutting edges, must be sharpened at a certain angle, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve optimal chain sawing performance. The upper blade (horizontal) performs the function of cutting the tooth into the wood and forming a groove. A side or end blade (vertical) helps trim the grain from the side.

The most important thing when sharpening a chainsaw is to achieve the correct angle of the upper blade, which should be between 60-50 degrees. The angle of the end blade is maintained within 85-60 degrees. It is also worth adhering to the angle in the plan (sharpening angle), namely, what is clearly visible when you look at the chain link from above - it extends from the side edge along the front line and should be 10-15 degrees.

The productivity of wood cutting operations in the transverse direction increases if you increase the sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain to the maximum possible and vice versa. Chains intended for longitudinal cutting of a tree trunk should be sharpened at an angle of approximately 10 degrees.

Under no circumstances should you touch the depth stop again: improper grinding can lead to vibration during operation of the tool. Its finishing is done according to a special template.

How is hand sharpening inferior to machine sharpening?

You can get the hang of it and sharpen a chainsaw chain by hand without much difficulty. But there are some nuances here, because first of all, it is not as effective as sharpening using a machine. The biggest disadvantages of the manual operation of sharpening chain cutting teeth are:

1. Difficulty maintaining the required angle. You don’t need to think that you can sharpen a chainsaw chain with just one round file; for this operation you will also need at least a special guide and a second flat file.
2. Low speed of operation. It is necessary to attach the guide to the tooth, manipulate it with a round file, check the compliance of the gap of the stopper, if it is necessary to correct it with a flat file, and only then proceed to the next tooth.
3. The need to gain experience. Despite the various aids for sharpening a chainsaw by hand, you first need to feel the process, and this requires some experience.

Stages of work when manually sharpening at home

You can sharpen chains at home using a special round file with a holder. To do this, follow the following steps of the operation:

1. The bar and chain are fixed using a vice so that its top line is in a horizontal position.
2. Take the shortest tooth as a starting point and mark it with a marker or nitro enamel.
3. The body of the round file is inserted under the main cutting edge, pressing it to the corner along the entire line and at the same time pressing the holder to the surface of the tooth. Thanks to the holder, the round file will automatically take the desired position, protruding in relation to the upper plane of the chainsaw tooth.
4. Using confident, even movements away from you, without changing the feed angle, run the file two or three times along the beveled surface of the upper cutting edge.
5. Rotate the file along its axis so that the abrasive surface does not develop, and repeat the operation until the tooth becomes sharpened.
6. After this, using a chain sharpening template, check the height of the stopper and, if necessary, grind it off with a flat file.
7. Then, after one tooth, the entire cycle of operations is repeated until they reach the initially marked tooth.
8. Turn the tire over to the opposite side and sharpen all the other teeth of the chainsaw through one.

As has already become clear, you need to select a file for sharpening the teeth of a chainsaw chain that has a round diameter and is flat. Many manufacturers of motorized tools of this specific type, for the convenience of consumers, simultaneously produce sharpening kits, where such files are already included in the kit. But here, too, it is important not to make a mistake: for a specific chain you need a file of a suitable diameter. Its value is determined based on the pitch of the chain teeth.

Following the rules, before choosing files for sharpening a chainsaw chain, its exact pitch is determined by the marking of the chain. The following recommendations are followed:

There are saw chains where it is appropriate to use round files with a cross-sectional diameter of 2x1.6 millimeters.

With the correct selection of a tool for sharpening chainsaw teeth, its protrusion above the surface of the horizontal edge of the tooth during the process will not exceed 1/5 of its own diameter, which can be a guideline when selecting a file when the chain pitch cannot be determined.

Sharpening a chain using a grinder

In some cases, you can sharpen chainsaw chains with a grinder. This is relevant when there is no time for better sharpening with a file or there is no professional tool available for these purposes. We must immediately warn you that a chain treated with a grinder will not be perfectly sharpened; the angles are broken here, but the chainsaw will be able to perform its task.

To carry out the operation you will need:

• grinder, preferably not very powerful and large;
• cutting wheel for metal of the appropriate diameter and thickness of 2–3 mm;
• a vice or clamp to firmly secure the grinder to the table.

The grinder is clamped in a vice so that the disk is positioned strictly vertically, without a protective casing, in the direction of the operator. Sparks should fly towards the operator, so protective clothing and goggles must be worn for operation. The grinder is turned on and, observing the angle, each link of the chainsaw chain is sharpened by eye.

Working on the machine

The most convenient way to bring the tool into working condition is to sharpen chainsaw chains on a machine. For these purposes, manufacturers produce manual mechanical machines and electric machines for sharpening chains.

The first are a system of a round file, guides and stops. The device is designed in such a way that it is directly attached to the chainsaw bar. The operator only has to move the file along the guide a few times and move it to a new tooth, all this is done without rearranging the devices.

Using an electric special machine, working is even easier. The chain is removed from the saw and inserted into a special guide, above which a sharpening disc is already positioned at the desired angle. The operator lowers the disc onto each tooth, moving them one by one into the contact area.

We appeal to specialists and everyone who knows how to sharpen chainsaws: share your experience in the comments, write which machines and methods are best to use in this matter.

It is quite difficult for a beginner to cope with sharpening a chainsaw chain, although fundamentally the technology is not much different from the methods of sharpening the cutting edge of any tool designed for cutting materials. The explanation is simple - chain sharpening is characterized by a number of features determined by its specific design and complex tooth geometry. How to properly sharpen the chain of your chainsaw, what to take into account and provide for - all the nuances of the process will be the subject of discussion in this article.

This is what the blunt and sharp teeth of a chainsaw chain look like (from left to right).

Regular sharpening of the chain is necessary not only from the point of view of productivity, or, as they say, maintaining the cutting speed at a constant level. Heavily worn teeth are much more difficult to return to working condition and will take considerable time. You will also have to remove more metal to straighten and sharpen the edges. As a result, there is a significant reduction in the service life of not only the cutting tool, but also other parts of the chainsaw, for example, the drive sprocket.

Signs that your chain needs sharpening

• The appearance of small shavings and sometimes wood dust. The dark shade of the waste is an indicator of the extremely poor condition of the cutting edges.
• An increase in force when feeding a chainsaw in the process of cutting wood. You can feel it right away.
• Tool vibration is one of the signs of dull teeth. The chainsaw in your hands begins to tremble slightly, its working part “throws” more and more.

Sharpening a chain with a file

All dimensions are in mm.

The most common technology in the private sector, when the chainsaw is operated at an amateur level and there are no special devices at hand. In practice, the simplest version of sharpening is implemented in everyday life - with a round file. Its recommended diameters are: for a chain size 1.3 - by 4, for 1.6 - by 5.

What if there is no ruler nearby, and it is impossible to measure the parameter exactly, down to mm? How to determine which file you need? There is a selection rule - the instrument in the middle part should not protrude above the tooth by more than 1/5 of its cross-section. This is marked in the figure (on the left side).

But sharpening a chain with just one file, “by eye,” is an extreme case, and only if the worker has the highest qualifications, extensive experience in this matter, and the edges are sharpened only 1–2 times, no more. That is, when the chain just needs to be corrected. But for systematically bringing it into working condition, this technique is clearly not suitable.

Price – from 590 rubles (depending on the manufacturer). This will allow sharpening to be done more correctly, without violating the factory parameters of the chain. Considering the cost of the chainsaw, the costs are insignificant and completely justified.

Features of sharpening a chainsaw chain

The chain parameters (cutting angle tip, stopper height) cannot be changed.

• The same type of sections of all links are subjected to identical processing. Excessive removal of metal from one of them will lead to a change in balance, increased load on the mechanism and, ultimately, a break in the chain.
• Soft metal is used to make its components, so sharpening should be done extremely carefully, without much pressure. In this case, the file must be maintained in a strictly defined position, along all axes. The picture above explains this well. The slightest deviation will lead to the fact that the chainsaw will not be able to operate in the same mode without reducing productivity. Basically, everything will have to be redone.
• During the sharpening process, the file must be constantly rotated around the longitudinal axis. Otherwise, one-sided depletion of the metal of its tip is inevitable, and all further processing of the edges with this tool will lead to the fact that the error will begin to grow. In fact, such a chain will quickly become unusable, since the identity of the parameters of the links will be disrupted.
• All teeth are sharpened in a certain order, sequentially, first on one side (of the same type), then on the other. In this case, the file is pressed only in the forward direction. Reverse gear is idle.

It often happens that one or more cutting edges are worn down more than the others. For example, if a chainsaw hits a twig. As a rule, this happens when cutting hardwood. In this case, a clove with a minimum length is determined, and everything is adjusted to it. The difference in their parameters will lead to uneven movement, jerks when cutting wood, and a break in one or even several sections of the chainsaw chain.

On a note!

Sharpening angles vary. They are selected based on the type of wood, the condition of the material (primarily its moisture content), the diameter of the workpieces and a number of other factors. That is why, when independently processing the edges of the teeth, when the saw is used in everyday life when working with different samples, it is recommended to focus on the average value of the angle - 30º.

Machine saw sharpening

It is unlikely that a professional will entrust someone with the operation of his equipment, and he does not need explanations on the methodology. But if the machine is purchased for personal use, then the problems with sharpening can be considered solved. The operating procedure is described in detail in the accompanying documentation, so it makes no sense to duplicate the instructions.

The possibilities for sharpening the chain increase (through a tooth or sequentially), and the quality of work improves significantly. The technician only needs to set the parameters recommended by the manufacturer (angle, polarity and a number of others, depending on the model). After finishing the sharpening process, all that remains is to get rid of metal dust (by blowing) and lubricate all chain links with oil.

The price of the sharpening machine is from 2,149 rubles. All you need is a 220/50 network connection.

All articles on this topic strongly recommend that you trust the sharpening of your chainsaw chain to professionals. On the one hand, this is quite reasonable advice, since the process requires not only theoretical knowledge, but also a lot of practice. But with intensive use of tools in the private sector, especially in suburban areas, you can’t run to the technician several times a day. The author strongly recommends that those who own a chainsaw master all the intricacies of sharpening it at home. And don’t spare money and buy a machine, or at least a set of accessories - they’re worth it.