home Heating options How to properly make wiring in an apartment diagram. Do-it-yourself electrics in the house: diagrams

How to properly make wiring in an apartment diagram. Do-it-yourself electrics in the house: diagrams

In most cases, apartment renovation is not complete without changing the electrical wiring due to housing redevelopment, physical and moral wear and tear of cables, increased load on the network and other factors.

The scope of work on the reconstruction of electrical wiring depends both on the size of the housing and on the planned degree of equipping each room with household equipment and appliances. Today everyone is accustomed to electricity, but this does not make the consequences of an electric shock any easier - a current of 5-10 A in a 220 V household network is deadly. Therefore, when installing electrical wiring, there are no small details.

Installation of an apartment's electrical network consists of the following steps:

Project/scheme development.
Calculation of the need for materials and accessories.
Marking for grooves and installation of grooves.
Laying cables and installing distribution boxes, sockets, switches.
Assembling the distribution panel and electrical wiring.

Electrical wiring project

It is impossible to carry out competent installation of the electrical wiring of a modern apartment without a pre-developed power supply diagram, guided only by momentary solutions to emerging issues. Reconstruction or installation of new electrical wiring should be carried out only after a detailed study of all the requirements for the new electrical network. Neglecting these recommendations not only risks equipment failure, but is also dangerous for the residents of the house as a whole. Therefore, before starting electrical installation work, it is necessary to develop a project for the electrical supply of the apartment, and it is better to solve this issue with the help of professionals.

The obligation to develop a project for the electrical supply of an apartment is not enshrined in law, but the procedure for connecting the installed electrical wiring to the power line of the building is regulated by strict rules, including the need for approval.

A professionally completed electrical supply project upon completion of the renovation will become an important annex to the apartment’s registration certificate and will facilitate approval. According to the PUE, the apartment's electrical wiring system is an electrical installation, and therefore its connection to the house line and operation must be carried out in accordance with the general requirements for such equipment:

the internal wiring of the housing must be compatible with the external electrical network in terms of power;
The electrical wiring of the apartment should not pose a danger (electrical fire) to the people living in the house.

Approval of the apartment’s internal power supply project is carried out by Rostechnadzor and is mandatory in the following cases:

when installing electrical wiring in a new building from scratch;
when reconstructing the existing network in secondary housing with increasing the power allocated to the apartment.

When visiting a property on an application to connect it to the home network, regulatory authorities require a project for the electrical wiring of the apartment completed in accordance with all standards, and the accuracy of this document is an argument in favor of the compliance of the power supply system with all the necessary requirements.

General rules for installing electrical wiring

The document defining the requirements for the installation of electrical wiring and any other electrical equipment is the PUE - “Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations”.

Basic rules for installing an internal electrical network in an apartment:

The wiring and connection of cables are carried out inside distribution boxes with careful insulation of the connection points.
Direct connection of dissimilar wires (copper, aluminum, steel) is prohibited.
Meters, distribution boxes, sockets and switches must be easily accessible.
The switches are mounted on a section of the wall that is not covered by the door leaf in the open position (from the door handle side).
There are 2 standards for the height of the switch from the floor - “Soviet” (160 cm) and “European” (90 cm), both are acceptable for use.
When connecting the wire from below, sockets are installed at a height of no more than 1 m, focusing on ease of use, when connecting to the network from above - from 1 to 1.5 m. In children's rooms of apartments, for safety reasons, it is allowed to place sockets higher - at a height of 1.8 m, based on the standard for premises of institutions with children.
Sockets and switches should be placed no closer than 50 cm from the gas pipeline.
The location of wiring sections on the walls should be orthogonal (vertical or horizontal) - this will make it easier to trace cables when performing minor repairs (drilling holes, gating).
Electrical wiring should not come into contact with metal elements of building structures (fittings, embedded parts).
When installing several cables with single-layer insulation in one groove, each of the wires must be placed in a corrugated cover.
Vertical sections of wiring should be located at a distance of at least 10 cm from door and window openings.
Horizontal sections of wiring are located no closer than 15 cm from the floor slabs.
The distance from the cable to the gas pipeline pipes must be at least 0.4 m.

Calculation of the need for materials and accessories

The required amount of material is determined in two ways:

according to the wiring diagram - the most accurate;
for the total area of the apartment - approximate.

When calculating the cable according to the diagram, the total length of the electrical wiring marking is measured, to which 10% is added, plus 20 cm for each socket or switch, plus 50 cm for each lamp and 50 cm for the distribution panel.

To calculate the need for cable based on the area of the apartment, the numerical value of the housing area is multiplied by 4, and the total footage of the wire of all sections is obtained. 40% of the obtained value is the length of the cable for lighting, the remaining 60% is the footage of the power cable.

Cable sections of wiring sections are calculated in relation to the wire material, laying method and maximum load on the line. For the convenience of selecting the required wire, the cross-sectional values are tabulated depending on the specified factors:

Cable cross-section (mm2)	Open installation						Pipe installation
	Copper			Aluminum			Copper			Aluminum
	Current (A)	Power, kWt)		Current (A)	Power, kWt)		Current (A)	Power, kWt)		Current (A)	Power
	Current (A)	220 V	380 V	Current (A)	220 V	380 V	Current (A)	220 V	380 V	Current (A)	220 V	380 V
0,5	11	2,4	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—
0,75	15	3,3	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—
1,0	17	3,7	6,4	—	—	—	14	3	5,3	—	—	—
1,5	23	5	8,7	—	—	—	15	3,3	5,7	—	—	—
2,0	26	5,7	9,8	21	4,6	7,9	19	4,1	7,2	14	3	5,3
2,5	30	6,6	11	24	5,2	9,1	21	4,6	7,9	16	3,5	6
4,0	41	9	15	32	7	12	27	5,9	10	21	4,6	7,9
6,0	50	11	19	39	8,5	14	34	7,4	12	26	5,7	9,8
10,0	80	17	30	60	13	22	50	11	19	38	8,3	14
16,0	100	22	38	75	16	28	80	17	30	55	12	20
25,0	140	30	53	105	23	39	100	22	38	65	14	24
35,0	170	37	64	130	28	49	135	29	51	75	16	28

When calling a conductor a cable or a wire in everyday life, you should know that these are not synonyms:

wire is a stranded or single- or stranded conductor with or without light tubular insulation;
a cable is a system of insulated conductors combined into a single structure, which is additionally insulated and, depending on the model, protected by an armored casing.

When choosing a material for electrical wiring of an apartment, you should give preference to cable - a more reliable and durable material.

As for the material used to make the cores, the regulatory documents clearly define the following:

PEU 1.7.34
“...In buildings, cables and wires with copper conductors should be used...”

SP 31-110-2003, clause 14.3
“Internal electrical networks must be flame retardant and made with cables and wires with copper conductors in accordance with the requirements of 2.1 and 7.1 of the PUE.”

Strobe device

In modern housing, open wiring is used very rarely, and internal installation has features that depend on the material of the building structures.

Cables are mounted on brick walls before plastering, securing the wiring with clamps. If such a wall is already plastered, then grooves of the required section are made along the plaster with a preliminary cut on the surface with a grinder.

Wall grooves in panel houses should be done with caution - no deeper than the standard plaster layer of the panel and without damaging the reinforcement of the structures.

In monolithic houses, the wiring is either attached to “black” walls before plastering, or laid in grooves made in old plaster.

Remember: it is prohibited to ditch monolithic enclosing structures!

Cables are routed through the wall between adjacent rooms into a rigid steel channel-sleeve, pre-installed into the structure with obligatory reflection in the project).

Sockets for mounting and distribution boxes are made using a drill with a core drill.

Laying cables and installing distribution boxes, sockets, switches

Cables in grooves are temporarily fixed with gypsum mortar before plastering. The sockets for mounting and distribution boxes are cleaned of dust and wetted. A box is put on the end of the cable, after which it is also temporarily fixed in the socket - with a small amount of gypsum mortar, flush with the wall surface. When sealing cables in grooves, the gaps around the boxes are finally filled and rubbed with cement mortar. Each outlet should be connected directly from the distribution box, without forming one cable for several outlets. When clearing the single-core ends of the cable from insulation for connection to contactors, you should avoid cutting the copper conductors - at the point of such a notch, the conductor becomes brittle.

Installation of the front covers of sockets and switches is carried out after finishing the walls.

The assembly of units in distribution boxes is carried out using special terminal bars - the use of twisted cables is undesirable due to the need for careful insulation and the inconvenience of disassembly.

Assembling the distribution panel and electrical wiring

First of all, the shield itself is purchased:

external design - easy to install, but requires space;
internal type - more aesthetic and compact, but installed in a niche.

Then the panel is installed in the apartment, most often in the hallway, after which all the circuit breakers of the wiring lines in the apartment are assembled and installed in it. It is not recommended to have more than one line on one machine.

All electrical wiring lines are “ringed” from node to node, after which they are brought to the panel and connected to the machines.

Upon completion of the connection with the circuit breakers of all lines, one common cable with a cross-section of at least 6 mm2 is routed from the distribution panel to the access panel.

Conclusion

It is possible to install electrical wiring in an apartment yourself. Especially if you have a professionally designed diagram and electrical installation skills. However, it should be remembered that learning electrical installation from your mistakes is life-threatening. If you have never had to do this work before, it is better to turn to professionals, at least for a step-by-step consultation, including on calculating the power of consumers and choosing the cable cross-section.

Calculate the cost of installing electrical wiring in your apartment!
Make a list of works and get a cost estimate in 10 minutes from crews and craftsmen!

Replacing the electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands, as a rule, is timed to coincide with a major overhaul. And it is perhaps the most difficult part of it. Accordingly, so does the price. In a regional city in central Russia, professional wiring replacement costs approximately 1,000 rubles. per 1 sq.m of total housing area. You should only attempt to replace the wiring yourself if repairs are necessary and you are short on funds.

Copper, earth and doses

Replacing electrical wiring in a residential area rests on three pillars:

Replacing aluminum wires with copper ones.
Transition from the power supply circuit TN–C (solidly grounded neutral) to TN–C–S (with protective grounding of consumers).
Transition from branching wires to connecting groups with separate branches.

Let's explain in order:

Aluminum electrical wiring, due to its low cost and environmental friendliness (copper mining and smelting were extremely hazardous industries at that time), became widespread throughout the world in the 30s - 60s. However, over time it became clear that aluminum is unsuitable for electrical wires:

Over the course of 20 years, changes occur in metal circuits under current, the essence of which is still not completely clear; First of all, aluminum becomes very brittle, and you literally can’t breathe on the wiring.
At the slightest ingress of moisture, aluminum is susceptible to electrocorrosion, which spreads under the shell; A seemingly intact wire turns out to be thinned down to a hair; hence the sudden failures, the most emergency ones.

Aluminum is a soft metal. It is squeezed out from under the terminal screws, the twists weaken, and soldering aluminum is difficult, expensive and one of the hazardous industries. Therefore, aluminum contacts are unreliable.

Power line wires have a service life of less than 20 years, and the defects of aluminum do not affect them. But aluminum is now prohibited in residential wiring.

The Soviet TN-C power supply scheme was used forcedly, due to the need for mass electrification in conditions of an acute shortage of non-ferrous metals and the large length of communications in a huge country. Since 1997, the TN-C-S power supply system has been adopted in the Russian Federation, ensuring consumer safety regardless of the state of the power grid. There are many ungrounded high-rise buildings left from the USSR, but since there is a problem, it needs to be solved; not “from above”, but on our own.

The branching wiring diagram was also used forcedly, and for the same reasons as TN-C. At the same time, branches to groups were connected to the more powerful apartment input wires along their length. Branches were made in distribution boxes - electrodispensers (doses); The main apartment dose is located next to the counter.

Each branch is stripped of insulation and twisted or terminals: unreliable and sensitive to locking. Nowadays it has not yet been legalized (but things are moving towards that), but branch wiring is commonly used: from the input to each group of connections there is a separate solid piece of cable in double or triple insulation. No twists or clamps, not afraid of moisture.

Stages of work

Electrical wiring installation costs can be reduced by half or more. The fact is that replacing electrical wiring is carried out in five stages:

Development of a power supply diagram for an apartment (house).
Drawing up an electrical wiring plan, its approval and registration together with the power supply diagram.
Construction of a temporary repair shed.
Electrical wiring.
Installation of mechanisms (switches, automatic machines), connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical appliances (lighting fixtures, heated floors, washing machines, air conditioners, electric ovens, etc.).

Before starting work on replacing electrical wiring, protective grounding should be installed, if possible, or protective grounding should be provided. However, its device is .

Wiring to points is carried out at the last stage during the installation of mechanisms, automation, connection points and electrical appliances.

You can save money at each stage of replacing electrical wiring. In general, you can reduce costs by half or more - up to 650-450 rubles per square meter, depending on what you can do on your own and what you will have to entrust to specialists.

Power supply diagram

Take a look at the picture in the section. Just take a look for now. Let's give some explanations. Firstly: kWA – electricity meter; RCD – residual current device. Secondly, the power supply circuit is single-line.

Pay attention to the two slashes that cross out the wire designation. This means that in reality there are two wires - phase L and zero N (neutral), laid together. The PE protective wire is not crossed out, which means it goes separately. If the input is three-phase, then there will be three dashes on the designations of its wires. We do not touch systems with an isolated neutral, which are not used in everyday life.

Now look at the drawing carefully. This is a single-line power supply diagram for an elite apartment of 200 square meters. m. If everything in it is generally clear to you, you will be able to draw your own power supply diagram, even if you do not have an electrical engineering education and do not know how to draw.

At worst, you will end up with a clumsy sketch. But using it, a senior student or a retired electrician looking for a part-time job will be able to draw the correct diagram in half an evening and inexpensively. And if you entrust the scheme to a practicing specialist with a decent salary, it will cost a pretty penny. The trouble will not decrease for you: after all, he needs the initial data.

Thinking through the power supply

Proper electrical wiring in the house depends primarily on the power consumption. In cottage villages they give a consumption limit of 10-20 kW for housing, but in a city apartment this is unrealistic: either the machine in the entrance will be knocked out all the time, or, even worse, the house wiring will burn out. And in old houses, where replacement of wiring is most often required, the “Khrushchev” limit is set at 1.3 kW; at the limit - 2 kW.

However, no one turns everything on at once. Even in the summer, when the air conditioners are on, they turn on out of step. Here, chance works for the consumer: with an average power consumption of 4.3 kW, the house wiring holds up. This limit is used as the basis for the calculation. True, if in the summer you start washing or ironing, the air conditioner with the boiler will have to be turned off, otherwise the main machine will turn off the entire apartment. But you have to come to terms with this.

Without going into the details of the calculation, we will immediately give data for an average city apartment of 40-100 square meters. m of total area:

Main circuit breaker - from 25 to 32 A depending on the area. For the meticulous: the current safety factor is 1.3-1.5. It is impossible to give 2 in apartment buildings: the general wiring is “stunted”.
Apartment RCD – 50 A 30 µA unbalance.
Kitchen - two branches of wiring of 4 sq. mm; on each there is a 25 A automatic circuit breaker and a 30 A 30 µA RCD. Water supply to the bathroom is from the kitchen; not indicated on the diagram, see below.
Air conditioning – branch 2.5 sq.mm; automatic – 16 A, RCD – 20 A 30 µA.
Socket circuits and lighting circuits - one of both in each room, except for the bathroom and toilet; they contain only lighting; We're still talking about the bathroom. The cross-section of the prododes is 2.5 sq. mm; Automatic shutdown is not needed, a general apartment one will suffice.

That's all the source code for a single-line power supply diagram for an apartment. You can draw.

Figure: graphic diagrams for “clarification”:

Drawing a diagram

You can take the diagram given as a basis. Its top, from the exit from the counter, remains unchanged, you only need to change the numerical data. The brand of the RCD does not matter: if you end up installing others instead of the ASTRO-UZO, this does not violate anything.

In case of doubt regarding the designations, see the Appendix to the PUE (Rules for the construction of electrical installations of consumers) or GOST 2.755-87(CT SEV 5720-86). Just follow the GOST number: for some reason, in the search, a lot of references to GOST 2.721-74 and even GOST 7624-55 pop up, which are now no more useful than the Moral Code of the Builder of Communism, at one time personally edited by a dear comrade and unforgettable Secretary General Leonid Ilyich.

When drawing a diagram, observe the dimensions of the symbols of the elements: scaling them is not allowed. If, for example, an electric capacitor is indicated by two parallel lines 0.5 mm thick and 10 mm long at a distance of 2 mm from one another, then so be it, even if it is alone on a sheet of Whatman paper A0.

Preparing a plan

Now look at the picture that accompanies this section. This is already a PLAN for the electrical wiring: this is what the diagram turns into when you have to do it by hand. Let's explain the plan:

At least two branches must go to each room from the meter - to the lighting circuit and the socket.
Since an ordinary apartment has one bathroom, a DSU (additional potential equalization system) is not needed. Its branch in the diagram is indicated by a dotted line.
In the bathroom, mark only the moisture-proof ceiling light and the boiler, if installed there. The bathroom is a special and complex case, we will talk about it later.
Designate only branches to connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical installations. Stationary installations are considered to be those that are rigidly fixed to supporting structures, or that are not powered through a detachable connection. For example: the boiler and heated floor are stationary, but the washing machine, dishwasher and electric oven are not. The fact that they are connected to other communications does not concern or concern electricians.
Do not clutter the circuit with small things like LED ceiling lighting, extension cord to the balcony, etc. Such things only irritate inspectors, and a completely decent plan can be “cut down.”
Under no circumstances point branches onto a balcony or loggia! For a city apartment, this is a gross violation of the PUE. These rooms must be powered from outlets in other rooms.

Now let’s show you how to simplify the preparation of the plan:

Take a plan of your apartment from the DEZ or BTI.
Scan; if large - in pieces.
In Photoshop, glue the pieces together and remove the old markings for wiring, stationary electrical appliances and connection points.
Apply new ones in accordance with the diagram and the sample wiring plan provided. It’s more convenient to do this not in Photoshop, but in CorelDraw or another vector graphics editor, by importing the original raster file and then exporting the finished plan back to a raster. Don't forget to save the vector template! Plans made by amateurs are returned for revision with comments in almost 100% of cases.
In Photoshop, divide a large image at the required scale into parts the size of the print area of your printer, print and glue into a large sheet so that the lines coincide. If they move apart a little, you can draw it by hand.

Notes:

If the bathroom is located far from the kitchen (as, for example, in Czech apartments), then the group of sockets provided for it, described below in the section on the kitchen, should be placed in the bathroom adjacent to it.

It is advisable to place groups of sockets in adjacent rooms exactly opposite each other across the wall. In this case, by drilling into the wall, you can power both groups with one branch, saving cable and pipe.

In “tram” apartments (enfilade layout) in the room farthest from the meter, groups of sockets, but no more than two, are allowed (in practice, not according to PUE) to be powered sequentially, one from the other. In this case, if the near group is powered through the wall from the living room, another half of the branch is saved.

In practice, sconces and other local lights can also be powered from sockets or in series within the room if it also has a ceiling lamp.

Ceiling lamps must be powered each by a separate branch. It is unacceptable to power them through each other or from sockets: general lighting circuits are considered vital.

The rows are counted and designated on the plan as a chandelier. The branch for them is led out to the center of the ceiling, and the wiring during installation is done as safer and more convenient.

The finished power supply diagram and wiring plan for the apartment must be registered and approved by the energy service. The verification and registration procedure is free.

Important: The electrical wiring plan should be given the utmost attention. Optimally, a properly drawn up plan saves costs by half or more compared to a sloppy one.

Electrical equipment of rooms

To draw up a power supply plan competently, you must first of all decide how many and what connection points and stationary consumers will be in the house. Of course, you are the master of your home, and it is impossible to develop a single methodology for drawing up a plan for all layout options. But the following guidelines may be useful to you.

Bathroom

Bathroom electrical installations are a tough nut to crack. On the one hand, only high humidity makes the bathroom particularly dangerous in terms of the degree of electric shock. Plus, there is a splashed floor and a naked, steamed person in hot water. The resistance of his body drops more than that of a dead drunk: the short circuit current through the body can exceed 5 A (!), and this is between an absolutely fatal blow and charring. The damaging effect of electric current depends on the time of exposure, and with such strength, the response time of the RCD is in no way sufficient to certainly prevent trouble.

On the other hand, there are powerful electrical installations: a washing machine, a boiler, with a large inherent leakage current, operating at elevated temperatures and humidity. In such conditions, exposed live contacts, even under the cover of the socket, will be a source of danger of electric shock.

PUEs allow the installation of sockets in the bathroom through an isolation transformer or RCD, but this decision is even more forced than the TN-C system was at one time. The RCD has already been mentioned, but as for the isolation transformer, this point was simply copied from the section on industrial electrical equipment for lack of a better one.

Installing an isolation transformer is a technically quite complex task and is the subject of a separate description. Recommendations like - pushing the RTR under the suspended ceiling in the bathroom - are the fruit, if not of ignorance, then of a latent desire for perverted electrosuicide. According to the letter PTB and PUE, a bathroom can only have a ceiling lamp in a waterproof design. But in the spirit and essence of the same PTB and PUE, the power supply to the bathroom can be organized as follows:

Replace the electrical cords of the boiler and fan with long ones so that they are enough to go through the hole in the wall to the sockets in the kitchen or in the room adjacent to the bathroom. The boiler is not equipped with a standard cord, and the loss of the warranty on an inexpensive fan is not a big problem, especially since almost 100% of warranty returns of fans come down to non-warranty cases. Of course, the cords are three-core, with a protective conductor.
Buy an extension cord without a cord, but with grounding contacts (Euro), for three sockets, with shaped holes in the back for hanging on the wall, and also provide it with a three-core cord.
Lead all three cords through a hole in the wall in the corner above the baseboard into the kitchen or adjacent room, equip them with Euro plugs, and place them in a PVC box: in the corner and below it will not be conspicuous.
The boiler plug is plugged into the socket “permanently” - nowhere in any rules is there a time limit for plugging the plug into the socket. Also the fan plug, if it is “intelligent” and is triggered by temperature and humidity.
The extension cord is hung in the bathroom using self-tapping screws in dowels.
The washing machine is plugged into the extension cord permanently. The remaining two sockets can be used to include a light frame for a mirror and a hair dryer.
The extension cord plug is plugged into an outlet in the adjacent room as needed.

Thus, there will be no exposed live ends in the bathroom all the time, and if basic precautions are taken, the risk of electric shock will be reduced to zero. And according to the PUE and PTB, an extension cord, even with a cord in a box and hung on the wall, is just an extension cord, not a socket.

Toilet

Only one lighting branch for the ceiling lamp will go to the toilet, as well as to the bathroom. Toilet and bathroom fixtures can be powered sequentially using one branch: electricians do not find fault.

Kitchen

For the kitchen, therefore, you will need two branches of wiring: for the bathroom and for your own needs. If the bathroom is located away from the kitchen, then the branch for the bathroom will go into the room adjacent to it, but we will describe it here.

The wire cross-section is 4 sq. mm and the automatic protection for both branches is the same and is described above. But the connection points differ: for your own kitchen branch you need not one, as for the bathroom, but two triple sockets. They will always include a dishwasher, an electric oven, a food processor and spotlights. Powering the halogens on the bottom of a hanging cabinet with a separate branch, as is sometimes recommended, is uneconomical and incorrect according to the PUE.

One of the remaining points will go under the kitchen fan, and the other is constantly connected to an extension cord, hung, like in a bathroom, on a wall or on a cabinet. It can be used to plug in a toaster, a vacuum cleaner when cleaning, etc. The refrigerator is plugged into an additional group socket on the opposite wall.

It is advisable to place the bathroom and main group sockets behind the lower kitchen cabinet, close under the countertop, but away from the sink. If the bottom cabinet has a back wall, cut an opening in it. To pass the cords, cut off the back corners of the tabletops so that they are not visible, and the cords pass freely.

The lighting branch in the kitchen is the same as everywhere else.

Hallway and corridor

Two branches are needed here: for the socket and for the light. If the corridor is long and two lighting points are needed, then the one closest to the outlet is made in the form of a sconce and is powered from it. And the far point will already be a ceiling lamp, powered by its branch.

Children's

The PUE requires for children's institutions that sockets and switches be located at a height of at least 180 cm from the floor. But this applies only to institutions, and the child will grow up, and the room will remain his.

If your beloved child shows an increased interest in technology from a tender age, the socket in the nursery should be equipped with a protective disk. A socket with a key-locked lid can cause a petty individual to become sulky and suppress inclinations that may later become the key to success in life.

Living rooms

Without going into the intricacies of the topology, let's say right away: to power the ceiling lamps and two groups of sockets in living rooms, 2N+1 branches are enough, where N is the number of rooms. Let us explain using the example of a three-room apartment:

Living room - 1 branch of the main socket group, 1 - additional, 1 - lighting.
Bedroom – 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. The additional group is powered through the wall from the additional group in the living room.
Children's - 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. The additional group is powered through the wall from the additional bedroom group.
From the bedroom or children's room, depending on the layout, an additional kitchen group is powered through the wall.

In total, for a 2-3 room apartment you will need 12-15 branches, including air conditioning. The branch for the air conditioner must end with a socket, although it is a stationary device. For two reasons: for safety and ease of maintenance, and because the split is equipped with a standard molded cord, cutting which will void the warranty.

At what height will the sockets be?

The optimal height for sockets is 25-35 cm from the floor. It’s quite comfortable to reach for them, they don’t catch your eye, and they don’t interfere with furniture. The exception is the air conditioner outlet. It is placed higher so that its cord can be reached and not dangle in plain sight. Excess cord can be rolled into a coil and placed on top of the wall unit body; The height of the placement of sockets is not regulated anywhere.

Do not try to “over-wire” it beyond measure - this will only reduce the reliability of the wiring. Two groups, one double in each, is quite enough. As a last resort, a triple socket can be placed in one seat, but this cannot be built-in.

Tools and materials

You will need the following tool to replace electrical wiring:

A hammer drill with a 16-20 mm concrete drill, a 90-100 mm core drill, a 25-30 mm concrete chisel and a set of drills, also for concrete.
Grinder with a stone circle.
Soldering iron 40-60 W.
Phase indicator indicator.
Multimeter tester.
Pliers, screwdrivers and side cutters with insulated handles.
Flashlight.
Assembly knife.
Construction level and cord for marking the groove route.
Spatula for putting alabaster.
Portable electric lamp.

We should talk specifically about materials.

Terminal blocks

The described method of replacing electrical wiring eliminates its twisting and soldering along the length, and the wiring turns out to be absolutely resistant to jamming. All connections will be made in the input panel (IC) at the terminal blocks and at the end points. Terminal blocks are sold in sections of 10 contacts (5 pairs). You will need 3-4 sections; It’s better to take three at once, and it’s never too late to buy.

When purchasing, pay attention to the material of the case - polyethylene is bad, any other will do. And most importantly, the holes for the wires should accommodate two wires with a diameter of 2.5 mm. It is better to immediately take terminal blocks with rectangular holes, in which the wires are clamped not directly with a screw, but with a special plate.

Socket boxes

Mounting boxes for sockets and switches (socket boxes) can be of any kind, but they must have protrusions on the outside so that they stay in the alabaster.

Cable brand

The “cool” and expensive NYM cable is not so cool at all: according to the manufacturer’s specifications, it cannot be laid in wet concrete (and where is the guarantee that the walls will always be dry?) and on the street. Therefore, the choice is domestic VVG or PUNP cables. The first is more expensive, but its insulation is more reliable. But there are no complaints about the apartment wiring installed by PUNP.

All these cables have single-core wires, and this is one of the ways to save money when replacing wiring: multi-core cables are much more expensive, and are unreliable in the wall. If the wiring is done by hired workers, then they will remember you: the cables are hard, especially PUNP. But it doesn’t suit your pocket. And if you are not touchy and have a sense of humor, then you can listen: good electricians swear masterfully, no worse than aircraft mechanics.

Video: a little about cable types

Old pipe or new corrugation?

It is better to tear out old cable pipes along with the wires without any pity: the gaps of the pipes are not designed for double-insulated cable, they are often clogged, the bends are flattened and wrinkled. It’s better to hand over them and the old wires after replacing them with scrap metal: at current prices for recycled metal, this will pay off, partially or completely, the costs of corrugated hose for cables.

It is better to take metal corrugation: in the event of an accident, PVC, decomposing in the wall without access to air, will release toxic gases. And by grounding the metal cables, you will also get shielded wiring, which has a lot of advantages and not a single disadvantage.

Introductory shield

The VSC will be located at the site of the old dose. It needs to be of a suitable size: it will have to fit 4 automatic devices, 4 RCDs, 4 terminal blocks and all the ends of the wires. The ends of all corrugated hoses will need to fit into the installation openings of the VShch.

Other materials you will need are cotton electrical tape (cloth), some conductive paste and alabaster.

Let's start replacing

Repair temporary shed

First of all, you need to provide power to the tool during repairs. To do this, we first attach a double or triple socket and a 16 A circuit breaker with a piece of 4 sq. mm cable to a board or piece of durable plastic. We also stock up on a long extension cord, enough for all rooms.

Then we de-energize the apartment by unscrewing the plugs or turning off the apartment breaker, manually tapping the dose near the meter, removing it and bringing the wires from the meter outside. We connect a temporary structure to them tightly twisted (twisting during repairs is permissible), carefully insulate the joints, and attach the temporary structure to the wall. We power up the apartment and get to work.

Note: For this work, it is better to hire a DEZ electrician, or work extremely carefully - do not touch the wires with parts of your body or clothing, hold the tool only by the insulated parts not lower than the limiting protrusion. And it is highly advisable to first familiarize yourself with the PTB and PUE. Remember: voltage may appear on a de-energized wire at any time! Those electricians who could not or did not want to understand this are no longer with us.

Grooving and socket boxes

The grooves must be straight, horizontal or vertical. Sloping and crooked grooves lead to accidents and injuries. Horizontal grooves lead half a meter below the ceiling.

Walls need to be dug and drilled from a trestle or a stepladder with side supports, such as those used by outdoor advertisers. An ordinary stepladder can tip over due to lateral force, and you will fall down with a heavy, rapidly rotating tool in your hands.

The boundaries of the groove are first drawn with a grinder to a depth of the diameter of the corrugation and the width of the perforator bit, then a groove is knocked out with a chisel. Inside the corners, an oblique cut is made with a grinder, and a hole is knocked out with a chisel so that the bend of the corrugation is smooth.

Holes for socket boxes in brick walls are selected with a crown; in concrete - with a chisel. The crown, once it hits the reinforcement, immediately crumbles all over, and it’s not cheap. The recess for the overhead switch at the meter is also knocked out with a chisel.

Note: Do not choose a double groove for switches. It is much easier to buy a corrugated cable that will accommodate two cables.

Grilling is a very noisy, dusty and dirty job. Therefore, its time must be coordinated with the neighbors. It’s best for the first half of a weekday, when adults are at work and mothers with small children are walking.

Wiring

We measure out the required pieces of cable and corrugation. We tighten the corrugated cable on the floor. Then we place socket boxes in the holes on the alabaster cushion. Then we lay the corrugation to the cable in grooves; We insert the ends of the wires into the socket boxes. Finally, we coat the socket boxes with alabaster to the level of the wall, and grease the grooves with gofor in pieces about half a meter apart.

Note: if the switches are single-pole, then the ends of the zero (blue wire) are immediately twisted, soldered and insulated with three layers of electrical tape with the bottom layer overlapping the wire by 15-20 mm and an overlap of layers of 50%.

To complete the laying of the wires, we insert the input ends of the corrugations into the VShch, lubricate them with conductive paste, grab them with a tin clamp on the screw, and connect the screw with a piece of PE wire to the ground terminal of the VShch. We put the VSC in place, mark the mounting holes, drill them, and drive in the dowels.

We turn off the power to the apartment and turn off the temporary shelter. We introduce the wires from the meter and the apartment PE into the overhead switchboard; We connect PE to the main switch housing. We put the VSC in place and secure it. We carefully insulate the wires from the meter and place them in the switchboard housing. It's time to plaster; the apartment is without power.

About wire colors

Zero (neutral, N) is always indicated blue or blue color, protective conductor PE – yellow with longitudinal green stripe. Phase wires may be white, red , black, brown. Only wires of the same color can be connected to each other. Transition of phase to zero, phase to phase and switching on of the switch in the zero gap are unacceptable.

Plaster interlude

Now it's time for the plasterers, painters and wallpaperers. Or yours, in a new form. But first you need to fill the socket boxes with foam rubber, paper or rags flush with the wall, and cover the power supply with a piece of plastic film, tucking it under the edges of its frame. We also cover the meter with film, but be careful not to break the seal - you won’t have any trouble with the energy service later. If the seal is still damaged, you must immediately inform the power engineers.

Completion

After plastering, painting and wallpaper work, the socket boxes and electrical switchboard will be rubbed and sealed, but it will be easy to feel them and cut the wallpaper along the contour. Having cleaned the remnants of plaster from the socket boxes, switches, lamps,...

Note: In sockets, it is customary to connect the wires so that the zero is closer to the window.

Then we assemble the power supply circuit on the terminal blocks in the VShch, but we do not connect the input from the meter yet. EACH BRANCH SHOULD BE CHECKED FOR SHORT CIRCUIT WITH A SHORT CIRCUIT TESTER BEFORE ENTERING IT INTO THE TERMINAL BAR! Now we power the apartment for a short time and use the indicator to find the phase and zero coming from the meter.

We remove the power, connect phase and neutral wires of the corresponding colors to the terminal blocks. AGAIN CHECK FOR SCROTS with the circuit breakers turned on, turn off the main circuit breaker, power the apartment, turn on the main circuit breaker. Didn't it "bang"? We check the lights, voltage in the sockets and continue the repairs.

Is it possible to do without papers?

As you can see, a good share of the work on replacing electrical wiring falls on paperwork. But any handy man experiences a not always justified, but persistent aversion to paperwork. So is it possible to do without papers?

No you can not. Electricians have a trained eye. The very first check of the meter readings - you will be reported to your own people, and then wait for the visit of the inspector. The result is a large fine and the legalization of work in fact, which is not at all cheaper.

Replacing wiring in a wooden house

Wiring in a wooden house is a separate topic. We can only note that the recommendations to lay corrugated cables directly along the walls are completely untenable: open wiring has long been prohibited all over the world.

What can you advise if the house is old and there are no cable channels? Cover the cable hoses with wooden boxes. Whether it will be a decorative imitation of beams and ribs, or a simple plank in the corner is up to you, but for power engineers it will pass with some difficulty.

The convenience and comfort of modern life largely depend on electricity. In every house or apartment, several household electrical appliances must be used at once to provide lighting, hot water supply, heating, food preservation, air conditioning and ventilation. For reliable operation of electrical appliances, proper electrical wiring is necessary. Each owner has the right to decide how household appliances will be placed in his home, and where sockets and switches should be located to connect them. But the question is, is it worth using the services of professional electricians when installing electrical wiring, or can you do the electrical wiring in the apartment yourself?

Where to start installing electrical wiring in an apartment

Work on installing electrical wiring in an apartment or other residential premises should always begin the same way - with drawing up an electrical wiring plan. And that's why. Let's say you made a renovation without really thinking about the end result. They did it as they wanted.

We rearranged the furniture and arranged the household electronics. So what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets were in “cold reserve”: one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers, and a fourth by a bedside table. Even to connect a TV and favorite stereo system, as per the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters.

And here begins a very fun and exciting game called “Scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment.” The question arises: why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Imagine how much money and nerves can be wasted.

Wiring plan

Let's say you have an apartment in a new building, which still needs to be renovated before you move in.

Electrical work in an apartment is usually done first. Before starting electrical work, it is advisable to have a wiring plan. In the simplest version, it can be done by hand on a sheet of paper.

Drawing a wiring plan

So, you consulted with your household and made your decision. Now all the ideas and plans need to be transferred to paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example.

notebook sheet;
ruler;
pen;
colored pencils or markers.

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions are required, just a general picture.

An example of an apartment wiring plan

Sockets.
They can be located in any convenient place, but no less than 15–20 cm from door and window openings, as well as 40 cm away from heat and gas pipelines. As for the quantity, it is customary to install one for every 6 m 2 of area socket.
Lighting.
Standard layouts are designed for one large lamp in the center of the ceiling. But you can, if you wish, make additional light sources (spotlights, sconces, night lights), providing wiring for them.
Switches.
Usually they are mounted on the right side of the doorway and at a distance of 60 or 150 cm from the floor.
Cable routes.
When indicating them on your drawing, remember that the wiring must run strictly vertically or horizontally. No zigzags are allowed. If you plan to lay wires inside walls, then you should retreat 15–20 cm from ceilings and openings.
Distribution boxes.
They also need to be shown on the plan because they are where all the major cable connections are made. A box is placed on each branch from the main line, but no more than one per room.
Distribution panel.
Typically, power cabinets are installed outside the apartment in a common corridor. But some layouts are designed for internal placement of the shield, in which case the task will be a little simpler.

Marking

One way or another, between drawing up the plan and starting the rough work, there will be a procedure called “marking”.

In scientific language, marking is the operation of applying lines (scores) to the surface of the workpiece, which, according to the drawing, determine the contours of the part or place to be processed.

At the initial stages of work on distributing electricity in a room, markings are made as follows:

first of all, the locations of sockets and switches, as well as the locations of cable outlets for household appliances, are marked on the walls;
Next, the lines along which it will be produced are outlined;
locations for distribution boxes are determined;
the location where the apartment electrical panel will be installed is selected;
after this, the routes of cable routes from the electrical distribution panel to a specific electrical point are marked.

In most cases, changes in the electrical wiring diagram of an apartment are easier to make at the initial stage of work, namely at the marking stage. In this case, time and financial resources will be saved, since possible changes will entail additional costs.

lighting of living rooms, kitchens and corridors;
power supply for living rooms;
power supply to the kitchen and corridors;
lighting and power supply for the bathroom.

If the apartment has an electric stove, it must be separated into a separate group.

To increase safety, do not forget to install (RCDs), so-called residual current switches, on each group. They are also required to supply the electrical wiring of the bathroom and kitchen.

After the groups are designed, it is necessary to determine the connection points of all the main consumers of electricity. This includes a washing machine, electric stove, air conditioner, water heater, oven and dishwasher.

Now you can determine the installation locations of switches, lamps, junction boxes and sockets, and then apply them to the draft electrical plan of the apartment. Carefully connect all the circuits and mark the wire lengths.

Be sure to make two copies of the apartment’s electrical plan and put one of them in the family archive with documents. It will come in handy more than once.

Now the final electrical circuit is drawn up. To do this, an exact plan of all rooms is depicted on each sheet, taking into account all dimensions.

All electrical points on the electrical circuit are marked using generally accepted symbols and are connected by lines indicating wires. For better readability, we recommend marking the lighting, grounding and power cables in different colors.

Be sure to mark all distances: linear dimensions of rooms, distances from wires to walls, ceilings, floors, and also to heating systems. Such a diagram will not only be more visual, but it will also be possible to make all the necessary calculations.

Requirements, rules, norms

When drawing up a diagram, you should remember some important requirements for the location of electrical wiring in residential premises.

Do not connect the grounding contacts of sockets to the neutral wires, as well as to the water supply or heating system. This is dangerous for human life. There is a protective ground wire for this purpose.

If the apartment has an electric stove rather than a gas one, then the main circuit breaker must have a rating of at least 63A.

The wires are laid only vertically and horizontally, positioned strictly at right angles to each other.

You should not change their trajectory; in the future, this risks increasing the likelihood of the wires being punctured by a nail or drill when performing minor repair work. Crossing wires should be avoided. If this is not possible, then the distance between them should be more than 3 mm.

When setting dimensions on the plan, it is necessary to ensure that the distance from the cable to the floor or ceiling is at least 150 mm, to window frames, door jambs and corners - at least 100 mm. It is better to place all switches and sockets at the same height.

In this case, switches are installed to the left of the entrance doors at a height of 800-900 mm, and sockets - 250-300 mm. In some cases, such as in the kitchen, the distance may vary. The gap between the heating pipes and wires must be at least 30 mm. Wires are connected to sockets from below, and to switches from above.

Features of installing electrical wiring in rooms with high humidity

Until now, it was believed that installing a socket in a bathroom was prohibited. Indeed, the ban existed until 1996. A bathroom is a room with a damp environment, water taps, a large number of conductive pipelines and a steel bathtub, which poses an increased electrical hazard.

The ban has long been lifted, partly due to the widespread use of modern electrical safety equipment.

through a residual current device (RCD) with an operating current not exceeding 30 mA;
the electrical wiring must have a connected grounding contact (protective zero TN-S);
sockets should be located no closer than 60 cm from the doors of a closed shower stall;
at a height of at least 130 cm from the floor level.

How to properly conduct electrical wiring

on the first one, you should draw a plan for the location of switches and lighting equipment;
and on the second - sockets.

After this, the clients of the electrical circuit should be divided into groups.

lighting fixtures for living quarters, kitchen and hallway (10A automatic);
sockets in living rooms (25 A circuit breaker);
sockets in the kitchen and hallway (25 A circuit breaker);
lighting fixtures and sockets in the bathroom (these clients are grouped together because they work in a humid environment and have serious requirements).

For each household equipment, one group is allocated with a 25 or 32 A automatic machine. The equipment is divided into groups due to some nuances.

If all the equipment that consumes electricity is connected to one machine, then you will need a very thick cable that can withstand such a load. You will also have to buy an automatic machine designed for high power, and this will be quite expensive.

If one of the network elements breaks down, you will have to turn off the power to the entire apartment in order to begin restoration work.

When the electrical wiring diagram for a one-room apartment is ready, it is necessary to determine the number of all electricity consumers. You will have to calculate the required number of outlets based on the number of electrically powered equipment you already have, and also take into account future purchases.

Then you need to correctly position all sockets and switches.

switches and sockets should be placed to the left of the door;
in living rooms and hallways, sockets should be at a height of 0.4 meters, in the kitchen at a height of 0.95-1.15 meters;
switches should be located at a height of 0.9 meters;
It is necessary to mark the locations of switches and sockets in the diagram.

Then you should run the wires from the switches and sockets (meaning the plan). If you are connecting via distribution boxes, then all cables must first go to them, and then to the electrical panel.

cables must run strictly horizontally or vertically;
It is better to avoid crossing wires;
the cable must be installed at a distance of 0.15 meters from the ceiling and 0.1 meters from doors and windows;
the cable to the switch is fed from above, the cable to the socket from below.

The last step will be to calculate the cable footage and the total number of machines. When calculating cable footage, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the rooms, and when calculating the number of machines, one must proceed from the number of groups. You should also remember that all machines are ultimately connected to one, which is designed for high power.

If you already use or are planning to purchase an electric stove, then you need an automatic machine that is designed for at least 63 A.

Basic types of wiring

If you decide that you can handle the correct electrical wiring in your apartment, then first you need to choose the appropriate method for this.

There are three types of wiring:

using distribution boxes;
star;
plume.

"Through junction boxes."
This is the most common type of wiring. The electrical panel is located on the staircase, and not in the living room. The power cable comes from it, and the panel itself contains a meter and several switches (most often 1-3). In each individual room, power supply is provided through a distribution box located at the entrance.

"Star".
Each light point or outlet is located on a separate cable line running into the electrical panel and often has its own circuit breaker.

This wiring makes it possible to exercise full control over each element of the power supply chain. Among the disadvantages for the owner is a significant increase in the amount of necessary wiring and labor costs, the high cost of a fairly large panel, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the project.

Wiring "Star"

"Plume".
The principle is similar to the “star” one, but differs in that not one element, but several are placed on one cable. The project will cost less than the previous one.

It is rare to find one of the options in its “pure form”. In each specific case, they are mixed to achieve the most effective result.

Combined wiring method

Nuances in a one-room apartment

kitchen and bathroom, where a large number of electrical appliances are concentrated;
living room.

This is done in order to obtain a power reserve by distributing the total load over two circuits, and also so that in the event of a short circuit or break in the circuit, one line, if possible, remains in working condition.

Electrical wiring diagram in an apartment (examples)

The given diagram of the apartment wiring of a standard two-room apartment with the location of the electrical panel near the entrance to the apartment is made in a somewhat simplified form. Only the main sources of lighting are presented here, that is, chandeliers, simple single-key switches, hidden sockets with a protective contact for grounding.

So, as you can see for yourself, you can create an electrical circuit yourself. A specialist will do this job much better, but every apartment owner should be able to correctly determine the location of the wires in order to avoid accidental damage to them by an unsuccessfully driven nail or drill bit.

Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, step by step, is a matter that requires increased attention to the work being performed, strict adherence to safety standards and installation rules.

The slightest mistakes can cause a short circuit. There are a number of certain rules, following which you can make high-quality electrical wiring.

Carrying out electrical work is not particularly difficult for those who know how to handle the tool.

Installation can be done in either of two ways. Hidden installation methods include embedding wiring into walls, ceilings and voids, under floor coverings, behind plasterboard sheets.

The open installation method includes laying cables in special boxes, cable ducts, using staples and clips. Both of these methods have their advantages. To perform installation, first of all, it is necessary to move all furniture and household appliances away from the walls and, if a major renovation is being carried out, remove all construction debris.

Let's look briefly at each of these stages.

Methods for laying electrical wires and cables

open;
hidden.

ceiling gasket;
laying on walls;
and flooring.

Hidden way

This technology is the most dusty and dirty, since you will have to trench the walls and ceiling or tear off the floor covering. Therefore, it is best to perform it during a major overhaul.

If the electrical supply project plans for wiring along the walls, then we mark them with places for wiring, pick up a hammer drill or grinder and cut out grooves of a certain width and depth. We select the depth on the basis that after laying the wiring or cable, the layer of plaster will be no more than 10 mm, the width is unlimited.

We cut out places for sockets and distribution boxes using a special crown. We remember about load-bearing walls and make grooves in them that are not too deep. In apartments of panel houses, the interfloor ceilings have internal voids in which wiring can be laid.

Today, monolithic structures with brick interior floors are more popular; in such apartments, grooves are made in all walls, the main thing is not to catch the load-bearing monolithic beams.

The most economical option for hidden installation is installation under the floor covering. The main thing is the presence of corrugations for each wire. This is done for convenience in case of repair or replacement of wires and for additional insulation.

After the grooves are equipped, they begin to install the lighting distribution panel and lay the cable. The shield itself can be mounted or embedded in the wall. In new houses there is a special niche for it, and in old houses it is fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.

Inside the panel we install machines from which VVG-3*2.5 wires will go to the sockets and the main line. We lay VVG-3*1.5 from distribution boxes to lighting fixtures. For stationary high-power devices we make separate lines from VVG-3*2.5 cable. At the places where the connection points are installed, we make an outlet of 15-20 cm.

Now in distribution boxes into a single network. The highest quality connection will be the use of P&S. To avoid mixing up the wires during connection, you can hang tags with specific markings on them.

After that, using a tester, we check the entire network for damage and errors. If everything is fine, then we wall it up, put the switches and sockets in place.

Outdoor installation

For rooms where it is prohibited or impossible to lay wires hidden, open installation is used (external wiring in the apartment). For these purposes, boxes, cable channels or special clips are used. The installation is quite simple and is carried out only along the walls and ceiling.

The first thing we do is mark the laying location and drill holes for fastening in increments of 40-50 cm; if the space for the wire is less than 0.5 m, then we make increments of 15 cm for two fastening points.

After this, we attach boxes, cable ducts or clips to the wall or ceiling. We install external junction boxes at the wiring points, and carry out the wire connections, wiring and installation of connection points in the same way as in the hidden installation method.

The advantage of open mounting is easy access to all wiring, but the disadvantage is that it is not very aesthetically pleasing.

Typically, cables from the apartment electrical distribution board are laid along the ceiling (floor slab).

Holes are drilled in the ceiling, then when laying the cable, a cable fastener is inserted into this hole. I will dwell on this in detail, I will only say that there are many installation options (for example, a dowel-clamp, dowels with a tie).

Tools needed for electrical installation

A wall chaser (or, in extreme cases, a grinder) for cutting furrows, a hammer drill.
Screwdriver Set.
Pliers, wire cutters.
Building level.
Phase indicator.
Drills, a crown for a hammer drill for drilling out sockets for socket boxes.
Knife and hacksaw.

If you don’t have a professional tool, you can always rent one.

Which wire to use for wiring in an apartment

Currently, there is no question about what kind of wire is needed for wiring in the apartment. For the installation of home electrical wiring, wires and cables are used exclusively with copper conductors. Wires and cables with aluminum conductors cannot be used for internal wiring.

increased ductility (less likely to break during installation);
corrosion resistance (oxidizes more slowly);
long service life relative to aluminum;
can withstand greater loads with a smaller cross-section.

Wires and cables can be single-core or multi-core. Multicore wires and cables have two or more cores reliably insulated from each other in a common sheath.

An example of a stranded wire is a wire of the PRTO brand (a wire with a copper core with rubber insulation in a braid of cotton yarn impregnated with an anti-rot composition). The cores of single-core and multi-core wires and cables can be made single-wire and multi-wire.

Cables and wires differ from each other in the type of sheath and names. The sheath of wires and cables serves to protect the insulation of the cores from exposure to light, moisture, various chemicals and prevent them from mechanical damage. The cable may include armor, and the sheath allows it to be installed in more adverse environmental conditions.

Wires can only be laid in a hidden way; if laid openly, only in pipes and ducts. Cables can be laid openly.

The most popular cable for use in home electrical wiring is VVGng; NYM cable and PUNP wire are less commonly used.

To connect to the floor panel, it is best to use an NYM cable. The same cable is used to connect the floor panel with the apartment or room panels (provided that they exist). Usually such shields are organized in private cottages.

It can also be used for individual connection of powerful consumers. This cable can be used to do all the power wiring in an apartment or house, but since it costs more than the VVGng cable and PUNP wire, it is used less often for these purposes.

VVG is an unarmored protected cable with copper conductors, polyvinyl chloride insulation, in a polyvinyl chloride sheath. The cable can be used in dry and damp areas.

The VVG cable is not designed for stretching. The insulated conductors of the VVG cable are twisted and have a distinctive color. The inner shell does not contain filling in the intervein space.

Cable VVGng

The designation “ng” in the name of the cable (VVGng) means that it does not propagate combustion when laid in bundles (a composition based on fire-resistant plastic is used). If VVG cable is used instead of VVGng cable, then if one of the cables catches fire, the flame will spread to other cables instead of localizing the fire.

The VVGng cable has a wide variety of shapes. It is most convenient to use a VVGng flat cable. In addition, it can also be round, square, sector, and even triangular.

NUM cable (NYM) – produced according to the German standard DIN 57250. The cable can be used indoors for hidden and open installation. NYM cable can be used outdoors, only out of direct sunlight. NYM cable has reduced flammability and gas and smoke emission, which is especially important for residential premises.

NYM cable

The NYM cable consists of copper cores, an intermediate sheath of chalk-filled rubber and a sheath of flame retardant polyvinyl chloride insulation. The use of an intermediate sheath in the cable design makes it easy and convenient to cut the cable during installation, increases its fire hazard and increases flexibility.

PUNP – installation flat wire. This is the cheapest wire of all cable and wire products used for installing electrical wiring in the home. PUNP wire is produced with two or three single-wire copper cores and polyvinyl chloride insulation in a PVC sheath. The veins can be painted in different colors.

Wire PUNP

PUNP wire is only available flat. These cable and wire products are used for both power and lighting networks. In the second case, wires of smaller cross-sections are used.

Much less often, when wiring home electrical systems, rubber-insulated wires of the PRN, PRI, and PRTO brands are used. The PRTO wire is intended for laying in fireproof pipes, PRI - can be used for laying in dry and damp rooms, PRN (protected wire) - in the open air, PRD, PRVD (two-core twisted wire) - only in lighting networks of dry rooms.

For open wiring, it is convenient to use a flat wire with copper conductors and polyvinyl chloride insulation with a dividing base of the PPV brand, as well as a wire with polyethylene insulation PPP. There is a flat wire without a dividing base - PPVS, but it is not very convenient to use.

Previously used wires with aluminum conductors (APR, APV, APRTO, APPV) are now not used in the construction and modernization of home electrical wiring.

Wire with copper core and polyvinyl chloride insulation PV. PV wires can be single-wire or multi-wire. Wires are available with different insulation colors. In household electrical wiring, single-core wire PV1 in yellow-green coloring is used for the potential equalization system (PSUP).

Wire PV1

When choosing wires and cables, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of the PUE for insulation painting.

The insulation of the neutral working conductor should be blue, the neutral protective conductor should be yellow-green. The color of the insulation of phase conductors must be different from the color of neutral conductors. There are many options here - brown, red, grey, white, black, etc.

It is also very convenient to use a different color of phase conductors for each section of electrical wiring, as well as different colors of core insulation for power and lighting wiring.

If you choose and then install electrical wiring with a wire or cable without complying with the requirements for the color of the cores, then in the future this will lead to significant difficulties in servicing and repairing electrical equipment in the apartment. In addition, the installation process itself can be very complicated, especially when using a large number of switches and sockets.

For different groups of household electrical appliances, wires with different cross-sections should be used.

Lighting - wire cross-section from 1.5 mm (automatic - 16 A).
Sockets - cross-section must be at least 2.5 mm (circuit breaker - 20 A).
Powerful electrical appliances, such as electric stoves and hobs - at least 4 mm (25 A).

Installation of residential electrical panel

Before laying cables, it is advisable to mount the electrical panel into the wall. The size of the switchboard is selected according to the number of circuit breakers, RCDs, and differential circuit breakers that will be installed in it.

The boards are produced in the following main sizes: 4, 8, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 60, 72 modules (1 module = 1 single-pole circuit breaker). In an apartment, panels of 12, 24, or 36 modules are usually used.

In my practice of electrical installation of apartments, in most cases I use electrical panels with 24 or 36 modules (24 modules for a 1-room apartment, 36 modules for a 2 or 3 room apartment).

One shield may not be enough if you plan to use equipment for telecommunication networks (router, media converter). In this case, it is rational to place these components in an additional electrical panel, which is installed next to the main (power) panel.

Modern electrical panels are hidden in the wall and do not take up much space.

The advantages of installing an additional electrical panel are that it accommodates the network equipment that is necessary for the functioning of television and the Internet. Thus, a router hung in the hallway on a nail is a thing of the past. In return come functional and ergonomic solutions.

Installation of socket boxes and distribution boxes

After marking, the locations of future sockets and switches became visible. In most cases, nowadays, sockets are installed closer to the floor at a height of about 20-40 cm from the floor, switches - at a height of 70-90 cm from the floor.

This rule is not strictly mandatory; changes are possible upon request. For example, it is more convenient for tall people to use switches located higher; for short people, on the contrary, it is better if the switch is placed lower.

Sockets and switches can be assembled into blocks of up to 5 pieces, and sometimes up to 6 in one line. Moreover, both vertical and horizontal installation is possible. All these points should already be taken into account when marking.

Now all that remains is to drill holes in the wall for the socket boxes. The standard European socket box has a diameter of 68 mm. When folding several socket boxes in a row, the distance between their centers should be exactly 71 mm. The depth of the socket boxes is 45 mm or 60 mm.

Deeper ones are used, for example, for installing a temperature controller for a heated floor or for switching electrical wires if necessary.

After this, holes are drilled for the junction boxes. Typically, distribution boxes (they are also called doses) are mounted under the ceiling at a distance of approximately 15-30 cm from the ceiling. The following rule must be observed: doses must be on the same vertical axis with sockets and/or switches located below.

Not everyone likes having distribution boxes visible on the wall. Installation of distribution boxes under the ceiling is allowed, provided the wires are connected by welding or crimping.

Wall chipping

Grooving is the process of cutting grooves (deepening, furrows) in concrete, brick or plaster layer for the subsequent installation of communications into it (in electrical communications are electrical cables and wires, in plumbing – pipes).

Before cutting, it is necessary to indicate the width and depth of the groove.

number of cables laid together;
cable sections;
the location of the cables in the groove relative to each other.

Regarding the last point, it is worth clarifying: cables in a groove can be laid either flat or deep into the groove. In one case the groove is made deeper, in the other - wider. Here each electrician decides for himself.

You should not make the groove too wide (with a margin) - during installation the wire will constantly fall out and will have to be secured in the groove with special clips or “grabbed” with plaster. It is ideal to make a groove 4 mm wide for a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm - the cable fits in there with a little tension and holds without problems.

I strongly recommend making grooves using a wall chaser with a connected industrial vacuum cleaner, and not using an angle grinder for this. Since fine dust after such gating will settle for quite a long time, which can stall all the work.

Professional electricians usually have all these tools (wall chaser and industrial vacuum cleaner) in stock. If you install them yourself, you can rent them.

Wiring

along the ceiling;
by gender;
along the walls.

there is no risk of breaking the wire during repairs;
There is always a way to get to the wiring.

If necessary, you can always remove the suspended ceiling, make changes to the electrical wiring, and then install the ceiling in place. When laying on the floor, you will have to chisel the screed, which is fraught with high costs.

Connecting wires in a junction box

twist;
soldering;
welding;
crimping;
PPE caps;

Please note that only connections made by welding and crimping (as the most reliable) can be bricked up according to the PUE.

Cost of electrical installation work in an apartment

Price list for electrician services:

Average cost of turnkey electrical installation work

There is another approach when calculating the cost of electrical installation work. The turnkey price is determined depending on the number of installation points.

socket;
switch;
lamp;
chandelier, etc.

Prices for electrical installation of one point range from 700 to 1500 rubles. (of course, excluding the cost of materials).

Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment from the panel

In old buildings, electrical wiring is installed to provide electricity in the amount necessary to power devices with a total power of 1-2 kW per apartment. Such power does not meet the needs of modern man, and the wiring had to be replaced with new ones. In new buildings, the level of electricity consumption is taken into account, taking into account the use of air conditioners, computers, washing machines and other equipment. More reliable machines, modern RCDs, and copper wires are used. How is electrical wiring installed in modern buildings?

Condition at delivery stage

Wiring in any new building is already calculated at the design stage in order to ensure an uninterrupted, safe supply of housing. In this case, the power supply design takes into account the installation of all wiring in the building, including telephone lines, radio broadcast networks, and fire alarm networks. This option is used when apartments in new buildings are delivered on a turnkey basis.

The second option, according to which electrical wiring is carried out in a new building, provides for the introduction into each apartment of only a power cable designed to supply consumers with the required power. Further, the installation of meters, electrical installation products (sockets, switches) is carried out by the owner of the residential premises independently. In this case, either specialists are involved, or the work is carried out on their own if they have the necessary knowledge and skills. This option is appropriate if the premises are transferred to the owner without finishing, which is very often practiced in the modern housing construction market.

Regulations

The creation of a project and installation of electrical wiring in a new building is carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the standards noted in the documentation. The main documents are:

The latest editions of the PUE require that wiring carried out in a hidden way in buildings under construction must be replaceable, therefore its installation is carried out in special electrical pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which are embedded in building structures.
In new buildings, this work is carried out immediately after the construction of the building structure and closing of the openings. Very often they take place in parallel with heating installation work.

Electrical wiring technology

To begin work, you will need an electrical wiring diagram, which will show the mounting locations of sockets, switches, distribution boxes, and the lines along which the wires will be laid. The wiring parameters and characteristics are also indicated. The scheme is developed taking into account the requirements for future decoration of the premises, since some decisions when designing wiring will depend on the material of the structures and finishing materials.

Convenient location

The location of electrical installation devices must meet the needs of future owners of the new building and ergonomic requirements. In this case, the diagram must take into account the minimum distances between wiring elements and plumbing fixtures and gas pipelines. In agreement with the Energonadzor services, it is possible to install utility panels with electricity consumption meters inside the apartments of new buildings. Their location should also be reflected in the diagram.

In accordance with the diagram, the location of future electrical wiring is marked in the apartments of the new building, and the housings of sockets, switches, distribution boxes, and distribution panels are installed. Nests and niches for them can be made in the walls. In this case, the housings of the distribution boards must be made of metal and embedded in the structure using M150 grade mortar.

Wiring

Next, all sockets, switches and installation locations for lighting fixtures are connected with PVC pipes in accordance with the connection diagram. These tubes are buried in the wall structures. At the same time, gating is not allowed in load-bearing walls made of reinforced concrete panels. The tubes are installed under a layer of plaster. On ceilings, wiring is carried out in pipes embedded in reinforced concrete floors, or carried out in the voids of floor slabs. If the pipes were not embedded in the ceilings at the stage of erecting the building frame, then they are also hidden by a layer of plaster or behind the structures of future suspended or suspended ceilings in the new building. At each section, the tubes must be intact, without joints.

Connection and connection protection

At the next stage of work, all future distribution boxes, sockets and switches are connected to each other and to the installation sites of lighting fixtures using cables of the type and cross-section indicated in the diagram, pulled in tubes using special broaches. The ends of the cables are marked to avoid confusion when connecting.

Next, the wires are connected in junction boxes. Making connections outside distribution boxes, as well as in installation boxes and housings of sockets and switches is not allowed.

Circuit breakers are installed in distribution panels to protect each individual circuit. For circuits in wet rooms, residual current devices (RCDs) or differential circuit breakers are installed.

In the utility panel, together with the meter, an input machine must be installed, which, like the meter, is subsequently sealed.

As-built documentation

After installing the wiring in a new building, it is necessary to draw up as-built documentation reflecting the location of the electrical wiring in the apartment. When the apartment owner installs furniture, interior items, conducts additional communications, and makes holes in the walls, he must know the location of the wires. Otherwise, they can be damaged, and repairs will require a significant investment of time and money.

Such documentation is carried out in the form of acts for carrying out hidden work, drawing up diagrams, and using photographs depicting electrical wiring elements before plastering.

In addition to this, all automatic circuit breakers and RCDs are marked and signed in the distribution board according to the purpose of the circuits they protect.
The information specified in the execution documentation will subsequently be used when drawing up a technical passport for the residential premises (apartment).

But the existing project does not always satisfy the owner of an apartment in a new building. The owner may be dissatisfied with the quality of work, the reliability of the gasket, or the location of the meter or distribution panel. In this case, it becomes necessary to change the electrical wiring.

You can change sockets, switches, and make convenient wiring inside a new building apartment without permission. But you shouldn’t just interfere with changes in the wiring diagram outside the apartment.

Changes in the project

If the wiring in the building was carried out during the construction process, there is always a possibility that the owner of the new building will want to change it, based on his considerations of functionality and convenience.

Any changes in the electrical wiring diagram regarding its characteristics are considered a refurbishment of the premises, and must be made in agreement with local authorities based on their decision. This could be a change in the cross-section of wires, replacement of machines, distribution boards, cables, installation of an additional power line, and the like.

To do this, the owner submits:

application for reorganization;
purchase and sale agreement, deed of gift or other documents confirming the right to use the apartment;
redevelopment project;
technical certificate;
consent of all family members of the employer;

The conclusion of the monument protection authority in the case of a new building is unlikely to be needed.

You will have to wait longer than a month for a decision – 45 days. Moreover, both permission and refusal may come. The countdown begins from the day the owner submits all necessary documents. The body authorized to carry out the approval, after making a decision, issues or sends a confirming document within 3 working days.

The document received by the owner will subsequently serve as the basis giving the right to reconstruct the premises.

From this day forward, it is allowed to carry out work on changing electrical wiring. It must be remembered that the new lines and installation parameters will be noted in the technical passport for the apartment.

An apartment in which renovation begins is like a blank canvas, like a ticket to a new life. I hope you have patience, endurance, money and a vision of how you will truly create “your” home. And you will have to start creating from the base - electrical wiring.

I recommend that you pay extreme attention to this stage of repair. Don’t just invite an electrician (at best, on the recommendations of friends) and leave it to him, but delve into the issue personally, and more deeply. After reading this material, you will be convinced that at the initial stage you will have to bother a little more in order to ultimately get a truly modern, comfortable “fortress house”. In which life will be comfortable and rational.

The catch is that the concept of correctness in this matter is extremely vague. From standards generally accepted since Soviet times to progressive and, in fact, appropriate in the 21st century. I will try to tell you about the second option. And show its capabilities and advantages. Of course, it is impossible to embrace the immensity and present in detail all the subtleties of apartment electrical wiring within the framework of one material. But, I hope, I managed to reveal the main idea - about why we should move away from the usual techniques.

So, your main task is to achieve a convenient and correct electrical circuit. In simple terms: so that sockets and switches are in convenient places (but not an eyesore), so that they are confidently enough, so that the equipment works without failures, and it is absolutely safe to use electricity in the apartment. This can be achieved by following a simple algorithm. And a good start is half the battle here. Where to start? From the mind - from planning and drafting technical diagram. For this you will have to go through 3 main stages:

mark the location of the shield,
draw up a diagram of the location of sockets and switches,
draw routes and calculate the required amount of cable.

For clarity, here and there I will illustrate the material with data from the website of the large electrical and lighting store “AxiomPlus”. There is always up-to-date technical and pricing information.

Where to install the shield?

In 99% of cases they are placed in the hallway, which is not without logic. By placing the box in the area of the front door at a height of about 1.5 meters from the floor, you:

reduce the length of the power cable to a minimum,
at the exit from the apartment you can, if necessary, disconnect unnecessary lines,
Prevent small children from accessing the content.

Having determined a suitable place, put marks on the wall so as not to lose it. And we move on.

Please note: it is too early to buy the shield itself at this stage! You do not yet know which modular devices and in what quantities will be located in it, therefore you do not have data for choosing the size and capacity of the box. All this will become known later. In addition, below I will talk about the capabilities of a new type of electrical panels. I promise they will be a godsend for many.

Next according to the plan is the marking of socket groups and switches.

You can easily handle this yourself, because who knows better than you where you will place the furniture, appliances and lamps? Focus on convenience. Walk around the apartment, determine where you will need basic and additional lighting. Discuss with other family members how and where it is convenient for them to use technology.

Then, on paper (or on a copy of the apartment plan), in a mobile application, on a computer (whichever is more convenient), sketch out a diagram of the layout of large furniture (sofas, tables, beds, cabinets, TV and audio equipment, kitchen furniture). And after that - the location of sockets and switches. Why after? So that in fact it doesn’t turn out that a third of the connection points are hidden behind bulky interior items and become inaccessible for use, and there is nowhere to turn on some of the equipment.

Tip: don’t skimp on the number of outlets. In this matter, it is better to over than under. As practice shows, at least 50 pieces are needed for a standard two-room apartment. Group them 2-3-4, it's convenient. And in the future, when several connection points are united by one decorative frame, it will be aesthetically pleasing. If you “save” at this stage, you will receive less in everyday comfort. And over time, “decorate” the apartment with garlands of wires from extension cords and tees.

Did you come up with it? Have you planned it? Pick up a pencil with a strong lead (there are also special construction ones) and... feel like Michelangelo.

The next task is painting on the walls and ceiling.

Draw a path from each planned outlet and switch to the panel. That is, from the point on the walls where they will be located in the near future. Route the main cable routes either along the floor or ceiling. How to choose? If you plan to have a heated floor, then ceiling cable routing is actually the only possible option and, in practice, the one most often used.

For the sake of fairness, I will make a remark. Theoretically, a “warm floor” does not interfere with the laying of cable routes in the floor. Here the question depends on the thickness of the screed: for example, you can safely pour anything into a 10-centimeter layer of screed. But in apartments they usually try not to “eat” so much. We’ll talk about the “warm field” (and how, in fact, to “eat” less height) below in more detail.

When drawing, make sure that the lines go from above to the sockets (each 0.3 m from the floor) and switches (0.9-1 m from the floor) strictly vertically, and all turns are only at right angles.

As a result of the art, you will get a lot of drawn lines converging at one point - at the place where the apartment electrical panel is installed. Why do this? For preliminary calculation of the required cable footage.

Tip: Mark each pencil line, clearly indicating where the cable will be routed from. This will greatly facilitate and speed up installation in the future.

Why are there so many lines?

It is important to understand: a progressive approach to organizing electrical wiring assumes that each socket or switch is connected by wire to the panel directly, without junction boxes and without connections. This the most reliable and high-quality thing you can do with home electrical wiring. Frankly, the main cause of fires due to faulty electrical wiring is precisely where the wires connect. This is the most problematic place. Accordingly, if there are no connections, the risks are several times lower.

It's comfortable. Self-contained circuits are always more practical than all sockets powered by one cable. There was an accident in one, the entire line was turned off “until clarification” - and you sit without the ability to turn on electrical appliances anywhere. Plus it will often cost less. Well, at least not more expensive, I’ll cover the topic below.

What electricians still do, and why it's wrong.

I won’t speak for all specialists, but the fact remains a fact. It will be a long time since there will be no shortage of masters who think and act according to the standards of the last century. Not according to the needs of modern housing with its electrical filling. What does it mean? And the fact that the wiring project and cable calculations, and, accordingly, automation, is carried out with an eye on hopelessly outdated standards. Standards by which you overpay when receiving electrical wiring with minimal potential.

2 wiring circuits per room - for lighting and sockets;
separate circuits directly to the panel for each powerful electrical appliance (such as an electric stove or oven);
a separate circuit breaker in the panel to protect each line.

Regarding the choice of cable cross-section, the usual standards, tested for decades, are the following (you can check it yourself by googling or talking to a familiar electrician):

1.5 mm2 for lighting lines + 10A circuit breaker;
2.5 mm2 for socket lines + plus 16A circuit breaker;
4 mm2 for powerful consumers + plus a 20A circuit breaker.

Simple, clear, proven. But it's outdated. In no way am I saying that this cannot be done - it is certainly possible. The question is, why, if you can do it smartly, and not the old fashioned way? The next step is to figure out how to calculate the wires “in a new way.”

What is the best way to select and calculate a cable: cross-section, length, brand?

First, by engaging rational critical thinking. Mainly in order to analyze the real (and not theoretical, but in fact outdated) electricity consumption of modern household appliances and lamps.

As a prelude, I will name the main bonus: you will save on the purchase of cable.

At the very least, don’t overpay, and you’ll “eat” the fruits every day. Buy a kilometer of thin wire or half a kilometer of thick wire - that’s what it will do. Yes, there will be more automation in the dashboard, but this is not a significant increase in price. After all, this is not to install RCDs on all lines (I’ll talk about this in more detail below). Adding 10-15 low-denomination machines will not significantly affect the budget. Oh yes, and the box will need a little more room, which is also a small thing.

First, the most revealing point: let's talk about lighting.

We take it for granted that in most apartments and cottages it is already LED. With all the ensuing advantages, including super-economical consumption. And the above standardized cable cross-section indicators were developed for hopelessly outdated, but half a century ago, voracious LONs that did not have a single competitor. Isn’t it significant: instead of 60W for LON, it’s only 6-7W for LED!

So what's the point of stubbornly powering a light bulb with 10 times less consumption with the same 1.5 mm2? Ok, let’s not consider one light bulb, let’s take for clarity an expensive, rich chandelier with a total consumption of 50W. Even for it, the cross-section is not that “one and a half”, but 0.75 mm2 suggests a decent margin of safety.

The check here is simple: use the formula, proven over decades (this is what never becomes outdated) and generations of electricians:

I(A) = S(mm2) × 10

where I is the current strength, S is the required cable cross-section, 10 is simply 10. I’ll immediately add a note: practice has proven that this empirically derived formula differs from scientific calculations within a tiny statistical error and has an ironclad right to exist.

For our magnificent (and by LED standards, voracious) chandelier, the required cross-sectional area will be:

50W / 230V = 0.22A,
0.22A / 10 = 0.022mm2,
0.75mm2 / 0.022 = 34 times.

How do you like it? Even such an unusually thin wire exceeds the actual requirement by 34 (!), and the usual 1.5 mm2 for lighting lines is simply blatantly off scale.

Let me note once again that these are approximate calculations, but they are not far from reality.

Why fight for a new approach and a thin wire? Not at all because of compactness as such, it’s still ditching. And for the sake of significant savings. Because for every meter of cable you will lose a significant amount. For a cable coil of 0.75 mm2 you will pay about 200 UAH. For “one and a half rubles” - 6-7 times more. Yes, you will have to buy up to several kilometers of thin cable and generously lay it out in bundles. It happens that 10 km of wires are wound in an apartment, but these are thin wires.

What cross section should be used for 220/230V sockets?

At a minimum, install a separate cable for each more or less powerful electrical appliance. Split system, washing machine, electric water heater... Let there be 20, 30 lines in total - this is not terrible, but even good (remember about twists and connections, or rather, that it is advisable to minimize them, and ideally avoid them). And for each electrical appliance, calculate the cross-section as close as possible. Moreover, standard sockets larger than 16 amperes will still not pass through.

I’ll say more and look ahead: not all standard sockets will carry even 16 amperes. Even (!) if it says on them that they can. Here the issue comes down to quality. In cheap Turkish or Chinese sockets you will rarely find actual copper or at least brass as part of the contact group, because in fact there is steel coated with paint with a hint of copper, and the possibilities are even smaller. And accordingly, it simply doesn’t make sense to run an expensive thick cable to such an outlet.

Often in practice there are situations when people are going to buy a good cable for their apartment (for example, from Odeskabel), but at the same time the sockets are from the frank economy segment - they say, they can save money on this. It might save you money, but the point of overpaying for cable is immediately lost.

Real examples: cables are purchased for 15 thousand UAH, and sockets are purchased for 1.5 thousand UAH. Chinese (despite the fact that German ones would cost 3,000 UAH). Would it makes more sense to do the opposite: lay a thinner cable and use German sockets. For the price it would have worked out that way, but the result would have been definitely cooler, more correct and more durable. It makes no sense to run a cable that can withstand 7 kW to an outlet that cannot withstand 3 kW. That is, this is money wasted on cable.

In addition, if there is a really powerful electrical appliance that requires the appropriate cable cross-section (like an electric stove, unless it was connected directly from the panel), then the socket for it will be a special one, a power one.

And the cable there really needs to be 4mm2. And in other cases, there is no point in chasing the cross-section. All the same, the socket as a weak link immediately limits the capabilities of the entire system.

By the way, we will definitely talk about the selection and installation of electrical accessories below; this is a really important issue. One of the fundamental ones. In the meantime, let's continue about cable selection.

In current realities, more electricity is actually consumed than 3-4 decades ago. But this happens mainly due to an increase in the amount of equipment in each individual household. At the same time, modern electrical appliances are no match for Soviet ones; they are no longer so voracious in themselves (look at the labeling of new washing machines and refrigerators - solid A+ and A++). Overall consumption becomes more economical and is smoothly distributed over time throughout the day, without sudden jumps. Not like decades ago, when the refrigerator turned on in your kitchen, and even the neighbors’ lights flickered. Those. total consumption has increased, but peak consumption has not. Due to the fact that consumption is low, there is no point in making large gaps.

What's in the numbers? Based on the lighting, you have decided - feel free to choose a cable with a cross-section of 0.75 mm2.

If you ask: why not 0.5mm2, since according to calculations this is enough? But because the difference in price for these sections is not significant. At the same time, we take into account that on long routes with too small a cross-section there can be significant losses. Plus 0.75mm2 is definitely enough for everything related to light, and with a decent margin for the future. Therefore, it is better to buy 0.75mm2, so as not to think and never remember.

Let's move on to the sockets.

Rating 10A or 16A - the value for which standard Schuko sockets are designed. A 3x2.5mm2 wire is what is prescribed to power them according to classic electrical installations. Let's check the relevance of these recommendations using the same scheme: 2.5mm2 × 10 = 25A - this is how much the wire can pass, but bad luck - the outlet itself is limited to 16 amperes. By the way, this is 3.6 kW (16A × 230V) of the power of the connected electrical appliance, let’s also look at this indicator: 25A × 230V = 5.75 kW - something too powerful to plug into a regular outlet, isn’t it? After all, in fact, the consumption of modern technology is quite modest. Take even the most powerful ones - a storage electric water heater, also known as a boiler, for 1.5 kW: 1500 W / 230 V = 6.5 A, 6.5 / 10 (the formula mentioned above) = 0.65 mm2.

As you can see, even quite powerful equipment with a significant reserve is powered by the same “one and a half”. The conclusion is similar to the point about lighting - wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 are an unreasonably expensive and unnecessary solution.

Life hack: plan several outlets that you will use only for charging mobile devices. Somewhere near the bedside table or in the hallway, whichever is more convenient for you. And feel free to power them with a wire with a cross-section of 1 mm2, because the consumption there will be absolutely negligible. For what? Additional savings in cable purchases: 4 times per meter. The same for low-power consumers such as musical equipment.

Is that “2.5mm2 for socket lines” really useful? To be honest, in reality it is only needed for direct connection of an oven or a powerful boiler (there are such things). Such devices do not have a plug; the cable goes directly inside from the panel and is connected to a special terminal. For an electric kettle or iron, it is enough to just buy a very high-quality 1.5mm2 cable, so that it certainly complies with GOST. But, of course, to calm your soul, you can lay 2.5mm2 on the circuits with sockets for connecting an iron, vacuum cleaner, electric kettle or heater. To be sure.

Regarding particularly powerful consumers the recommendations remain relevant: for an electric oven or electric stove, it is better to make separate circuits directly to the panel using a cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 for a consumer with a power of up to 6-7 kW or 6 mm2 for 8-10 kW. Three-wire for single-phase network, five-wire for three-phase.

Here I will also make a footnote - even stoves and ovens are not always connected to 4mm2 or 6mm2, for some people even 2.5mm2 is enough, here you need to read the instructions for the specific model.

What about cable brands and quantities?

In general, most often in apartments they use PVA (it is flexible and easy to install) or VVG (cheaper, but tougher, and therefore more difficult to install). But as we follow our differentiation plan, keep in mind: On the lighting line, only PVA (or ShVVP) is suitable, because others are not thin enough. The same VVG has a minimum cross-section of 1.5 mm2 (and, as you remember, we justified that there is no point in laying a wire thicker than 0.75 mm2 for LED lamps). The choice of sockets depends rather on the preferences of the electrician; here we will not be categorical.

This way you will determine which wires you need. And calculate the footage of each type using those pencil lines drawn earlier. They are marked with what is what, so you won’t get confused. Only for each circuit add another meter and a half for input and connection of automation. So determine the layout based on the total needs of cables of different sections.

Where can you buy a cable that is not truncated, according to GOST, and not a fake?

It’s clear that it’s not on the market - because. extremely high probability of getting caught in a fake. And buying directly from the factory is often completely impossible. Optimally from an official representative, preferably with a long presence on the market, because Unfortunately, there are still plenty of one-day online stores, although there are significantly fewer of them than 5 years ago. One of the official representatives, and in fact there are not many of them, today is a specialized store of electrical engineering and cable products - AxiomPlus - where you can choose a cable according to detailed characteristics, and compare the price of trusted suppliers (read: manufacturers) and buy a good cable quality without fear for its authenticity.

Calculate - counted, but how to lay it? And what else will be useful?

Most often they are laid on the ceiling or floor. But still, more often the first option, because cable heated floors are popular in apartments and houses. That is, the wires run along the ceiling, and then go down the walls to the locations of sockets and switches. In this case, the cable on the ceiling is then covered either with sheets of plasterboard or with suspended ceilings. Along the walls, the cable route lies inside the groove, hidden under a layer of plaster.

Is additional corrugation needed?

Surely your electrician will say that you need to add corrugation for laying to the estimate. And here I would stop and reflect. I’ll say right away that the question “corrugation and its role in electrical wiring” leads to a separate topic with emotional reasoning. An ambiguous question, which is better to be solved based on the following considerations:

standards and regulations,
expediency.

In fact, the “Wiring Rules” do not mention corrugation itself. It regulates how cables should be laid in different situations and conditions, at what distance the cable should be from the combustible surface, where and how it should be located. It is not written that it should be specifically corrugated.

That is, in some cases, simply by the fact of its presence, it allows you to lay the cable in accordance with the requirements of the regulations. For example, the cable should be laid at a distance of 2 cm from the surface. It is certainly possible to achieve this with the help of corrugation - so that it hangs at a given distance, plus does not bend or break. But by itself it does not protect it from anything except a number of mechanical damages.

Perhaps, the main reason to lay the cable in a corrugated: If the pipes are hermetically sealed, then oxygen does not get inside. As a result, even if something happens to the cable inside, a spark appears and a fire occurs, the oxygen inside will instantly run out and self-extinguishing will occur. Sounds good, right? But keep in mind that the effect occurs only when the pipes are hermetically sealed. But in practice, more often than not, “if only it was”, they threw it, and everything looks more solid, the client is satisfied. And ask, what are they for? — 95% of electricians will find it difficult to give a substantive answer. You will hear versions like: “well, it should be in the pipe”, “that’s how everyone does it”, “it’s so beautiful.” So, if you are going to lay it in pipes, then it is logical to seal the ends. At the same time, be sure to ensure that the pipe is of good quality and without damage.

So, home wiring is safe even without the use of PVC corrugation when using a flame-retardant cable (like VVG) and hidden wiring (in grooves under a layer of plaster).

This is more of a visual solution and light additional mechanical protection (for example, a drywall worker will accidentally hit it with a knife and damage the insulation). And also easy to replace the wire if necessary.

Life hack: if considered in the context of mechanical protection, consider the option of cable channels. Purely for reasons of practicality. At least they are square; they are much easier to plaster in the walls than round corrugation. They come with consumables such as corners, turns, tees, which facilitate installation. And for safety purposes, this is the same (although, in truth, the cable channel is in fact more rigid and will protect against mechanical damage better than a corrugated pipe). In terms of money, with a cable channel it’s barely more expensive.

Think about impulse switches.

Especially for large rooms, rooms with complex configurations, long corridors. If the apartment is one-room, small, then there is no special meaning, but “the master is the master.” It happens that they do it in one-room apartments.

Why yes? This is a triple saving: on cables, on switches, on installation. It’s also reliable and repairable—if it fails, you can replace it in five minutes with a screwdriver. Not like for a crossover switch, where the repair floor needs to be redone in order to replace it.

Impulse switches are no longer uncommon. The idea naturally becomes popular, and demand, accordingly, gives rise to supply. You will find them in the catalogs of European manufacturers of electrical accessories, and a pulse switch costs exactly the same as a regular one. To go with it you need to buy a pulse relay, which is placed in the switchboard; its price is quite affordable, about 200-300 UAH.

And, of course, there is a huge amount made in China, but here you have to be more careful so as not to run into outright trash. That is, the price is already equal to the walk-through ones, but installation is easier and faster. As well as repair or replacement as necessary. Moreover, you can install them without restrictions on quantity - wherever it is convenient to use. Pulse relays and buttons allow you to create absolutely any combination of lighting system control. At least one zone from five-ten-fifteen places, at least five-ten-fifteen zones from one place. And you don't need to run around the apartment. For example, when leaving the house, by pressing one button near the front door, turn off the lights in all rooms.

But this is still a desirable, not a mandatory element. Let's now return to the really important object located near the front door - the distribution panel. His time has come.

How to choose and install an electrical panel.

You probably already realized that the resulting shield will be much larger than the 10-module boxes that are becoming a thing of the past. It is convenient to choose step by step according to the parameters.

Size— based on the total number of modules of all devices placed in the panel (read more below).

Life hack: be sure to provide some extra space on the DIN rail. This will be very helpful if in the future you have to install one or two more machines (for example, on a new split system) or an additional RCD in the children's room. In general, in principle, the more spacious the box inside, the more convenient the installation.

Material- plastic (generally more aesthetically pleasing and more convenient for an apartment) and metal.

Installation method- built into the wall or mounted. It is better to build it into an apartment, this is maximum compactness.

Life hack: if you are installing it in drywall, immediately buy special fastening tabs for mounting in hollow walls, so as not to have to worry about installation and not have to re-order.

Design- Do you want one with a transparent door or a solid one? Rely on your own understanding of convenience and aesthetics.

Some people want to take a look at the voltage relay installed on the DIN rail (I’ll definitely tell you about it) with an indication on the display and understand that everything is normal. For others, a white opaque door seems like a nicer option. By the way, about white. Not white, actually, alone.

If you want something more interesting, you are welcome - to the catalogs of European manufacturers. They make shields so cute that they can be considered as a highlight of the interior. For example, in the Volta series from Hager there are designs in blue, metallic, anthracite, even with mirror frames, to match the poster. Or models whose doors can be easily covered with plaster or wallpaper to completely blend into the wall.

Life hack: If there are small, curious children in the apartment (and are they not curious in principle?), a model of a shield with a lock will be very useful. Unlike a standard latch, it will reliably block access to the contents.

Whatever box you ultimately choose, be sure to mark each modular device in the panel - using a diagram (some box models have a clip on the door for storing it) or by marking it with special stickers.

For lovers of versatility, design and compact solutions.

She promised to tell me about an interesting solution. Appeared on the market hybrid shields from “classic” European brands (Hager, Schneider Electric). What is their valuable feature: in addition to the DIN rail, they have a mounting board for multimedia equipment. Imagine: you simply hide the router inside the built-in box, and do not “decorate” with it a wall or a cabinet in the corridor. Such shields are well ventilated due to their thoughtful design. Using the example of the Hager series of the popular Volta:

the classic built-in box VU36UA for 36 modules will cost almost a thousand hryvnia,
hybrid VU36NWB with the same capacity, but also with perforated mounting panels - one and a half thousand “with kopecks”*.

* prices for electrical panels were also taken from the AxiomPlus website (by the way, the official partner of the Hager company) and are indicated at the time of publication of this material (September 2019).

That is, in the second case, you will pay 1.5 times more, but will immediately receive a place in the main distribution panel adapted for the installation of computer network equipment (elements of the Smart Home system, alarm system). And the maximum possible civilized appearance of the hallway.

What is mandatory and what is advisable to put in the electrical panel.

Required elements for home electrical panel: circuit breakers(for short circuit protection) and RCD(from leakage currents). Select machines according to the calculated rated current value for each line. Or exactly the same load as expected on the circuit, or the rating next in the line in the direction of increase.

For example, let's take the water heater we reviewed. The line for connecting it at 6.5A (we calculated above) will require protection by a 10A automatic machine: 6A is already not enough, and the next one in the “ten” gradation (“eight” is a very rare denomination and is produced in industrial series). See the entire range of possible denominations in the online catalog (it’s convenient to choose there too).

Advice: you cannot take the machine’s nominal value “for growth”. In this case, the reserve is not only unnecessary, but harmful. The protection should work, turning off the emergency line BEFORE the cable starts to heat up.

For protection against leakage currents, set the RCD to at least the introductory(for the entire apartment) with a sensitivity to leakage current of 100 mA. It works as a fire protection (paired with a common input circuit breaker). For a small apartment, it is permissible to put 30mA at the input; it will work against both fire and electric shock.

Another one for the bathroom - preferably with sensitivity to leakage currents of 10 mA (plus the same for the children's room, if there is one or planned). 30mA is also allowed in the bathroom. If your budget is freer, then use an even more reliable option: for each room there is a separate 30mA RCD (except for the bathroom and children’s room, we do not change the indicators here), and then you will do without the introductory one.

Advice: follow the organization of the automation markings in the dashboard that are simple and clear at first glance. This will help you instantly navigate the “stuffing”.

A healthy solution is to install a voltage relay to protect equipment.

But only with occasional dips and surges in voltage in the sockets (if the problems are constant, then the relay will work non-stop). The relay will promptly de-energize the line in case of emergency voltage values (i.e., beyond the safe limits for household appliances specified in the instructions). And will resume feeding after the situation stabilizes.

This opportunity is especially valuable for compressor equipment (refrigerators, air conditioners). Structurally, choose for the entire apartment (for installation in a distribution panel on a DIN rail) or for one electrical appliance - most often they choose a socket version for a refrigerator.

You need to select a relay according to its nominal value: according to the sum of the powers of the connected electrical appliances. For example, equipment (potentially switched on at a time) consumes a total of 11 kW; determine the nominal value using the formula from a school physics course:

I = U/R = 13000W/230V = 47.8A

then select the relay in the panel to the nearest value of 50A. It’s better to look at the models offered for sale with your own eyes to understand the dimensions. So, relays for 50A suitable for our example occupy 3 modules in width. This is important to know so as not to miss the capacity of the distribution panel.

Important: for one phase - one relay, for three phases - three single-phase relays.

To prevent natural force majeure, install a surge arrester.

I advise you to install surge protection (in other words, lightning protection) in the shield. The value of this device is that it minimizes the risks of lightning overvoltage (which, by the way, no circuit breaker can handle). This is especially important for residents of private houses, but even in an apartment it is better to be on the safe side and install a surge arrester of the most budget category D (price tag around $10) in your panel. After all, the lightning protection system from builders often does not stand up to criticism.

Important: set to zero and phase. For a single-phase network, a two-pole arrester is needed, for a three-phase network, a 4-pole one is needed.

At the same time, work on electrical fittings.

When you know how many sockets and switches there will be in the apartment, as well as their location, feel free to start looking for them. As for installation, you need to start by preparing the holes for installing socket boxes (standard depth 45 mm or “XXL” - 60 mm if it is supposed to contain a wire assembly).

To install several mechanisms in a row, choose ready-made socket boxes for 2-4 places or modular ones that are easily connected to each other - consult your specialist.

You probably already know, but let me remind you. Modern electrical accessories are structurally produced in two versions: assembled (economy segment) and disassembled (the vast majority of European series). The dismountable kit is a mechanism with a metal frame, attached to a wall socket, and a separate decorative frame attached to it.

So, start “beautifying” and installing decorative frames only after finishing the finishing work - on finished walls with wallpaper or painting.

For families with children, I strongly advise you to choose sockets with protection - with curtains (the holes are closed by default, and open only when both are pressed at the same time. Moreover, the pressure is equal to the same force as when turning on the pins of a plug. There are also options with covers.

In addition to the standard ones, consider the location of special multimedia and USB sockets, as well as for the thermostat.

What to consider in advance if you are planning a heated floor.

Water heated floors are prohibited in apartment buildings. But with electric, choose from three options:

heating cable - completely embedded in a cement screed (minus - it will eat up the height of at least 2-4 cm);
heating mats - will cost a little more than cable and mesh, but are easier to install and more compact in height;
heating film is the thinnest solution (from 0.4 mm) and the only one possible if raising the floor level is not possible.

In terms of power, the guideline is simple. For additional heating to increase comfort, 100-120 W/m2 is sufficient. Connect complete with temperature sensor and thermostat. Make the connection directly from the panel to a separate machine, no surprises here. Place the socket block on this system, and place the thermostat in it under the frame.

Is it possible to provide backup power in the apartment?

Yes, and this is done using an uninterruptible power supply. Let's talk about how to choose, connect, what to power, how long the resource will last. The beauty of a UPS is that, thanks to the built-in batteries, it will continue to operate the equipment connected to it for a certain time. Which one depends on the power of the UPS itself and how much you “hung” on it.

Typically, backup power is provided centrally at the level of an apartment building - new high-rise buildings are connected and put into operation with backup power. But don’t be confused: backup power is not autonomous. Those. They are powered from the neighboring area so that people do not have to sit in the dark for a long time.

But the issue of backup power in a single apartment is quite difficult. Let me clarify - difficulties arise when we are talking about autonomous power supply for the entire apartment. At a minimum, because the UPS for an apartment is quite large.

Thus, a LogicPower LPY B PSW 7000VA UPS with 5 kW output power and dimensions of 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.5 m weighs 31 kg, and models with a power of about 10 kW are completely long - up to 0.7 (or more) meters in one of the sizes. You understand, this is a large, weighty, and also noisy device. More suitable for a private home, where it is convenient to place it somewhere in the utility room. And in an apartment such a colossus will clearly become a foreign object. Plus it’s also expensive: the same 5000 W option will cost from 20 thousand UAH. and higher.

Why not a generator? You can read the subtleties and nuances in the article. But let's face it: the likelihood of vibration and noise disturbing both you and your neighbors is too high. And the neighbors can be nervous and may contact the law enforcement agencies. I’ll say right away that the idea is good in theory, but in practice it is small and difficult to implement.

But it is still possible to make a backup power supply at the initial stage of repair. Just approach the issue from the point of view of maximum rationality. What is missing most when the power goes out? Isn't it true, lighting in the dark? So let's power it up. Then, in the event of an accident, there will always be light in your apartment, without flashlights or candles, and this is already a plus of one hundred hundred points for the comfort of life.

How to choose an uninterruptible power supply “for the light”, I’ll show you with an example. Let's say we are talking about a two-room apartment with a total power consumption for lighting of 80 W (we take it for granted that LED lamps are installed everywhere). We take into account that, in principle, all the light bulbs never light up at the same time, and we take into account that a third to half of the power will be used, i.e. maximum 30-40W (and only if used on a grand scale). For such a situation, an inexpensive 500-750W UPS is sufficient. Let's see what he is actually capable of.

For example, a LogicPower LP 850VA UPS with 510 W output power and a battery life at full load of 10-15 minutes is enough for: 510 W / 40 W = 12.75. This is 12.75 × 10 minutes = 127.5 minutes. A full 2 hours of autonomous lighting! And this is with a completely free mode of use. If you squeeze down to a couple of light bulbs, then half a day will be enough.

Life hack: no matter how tempting it may be to connect a refrigerator to the UPS, there is no point in it. Even with a bonus 20-30 minutes, you will not radically solve the situation with saving borscht and sausage. We can only hope for a prompt solution to the problem on the part of utility services.

Another task for which a UPS is indispensable is saving the computer and data on it in the event of a line failure. It is very advisable to provide a reserve of autonomous power supply if you often work using a PC (or carry out other operations such as storming enemy positions with tanks). Moreover, it will turn out quite inexpensively: if install only on a computer; in most cases, a UPS with a power of up to 300-500W is sufficient. But in terms of capacity, look at your needs - you will have time to complete the job correctly in 3-4 minutes, and to calmly complete the work task at hand, choose 30-40 minutes (look at the “autonomy at full load” indicator).

At the finish line - a new level of comfort and safety.

Now you will at least be able to speak the same language with the electrician, compare his recommendations and estimates with your own calculations and with a high probability you will make the wiring in the apartment really “for you.” As a maximum, by abandoning outdated methods of calculation and installation and installing electrical wiring in the apartment according to the proposed algorithm, you will receive decent bonuses:

reliability and durability of the home power supply system,
convenience of daily life as a result of detailed differentiation of lines - you can turn off any socket or lamp individually, otherwise without losing comfort,
saving money, effort and time (mutually complementary parameters, right?),
invulnerability of equipment to incoming lightning,
Autonomous power supply for lighting and PC.

Do not forget that you cannot skimp on the quantity and quality of sockets, otherwise they will reduce the potential of the entire system. But now you know how to safely save on cables by rationally calculating its cross-section. Another important point: do not give in to the impulse to save money on purchasing elements of your wiring by purchasing it at the market or in dubious shops. The risk of running into a fake is too high, and the consequences of automatic devices or RCDs that do not operate on time are very dire. Take the trouble to find officials; you can’t skimp on safe electricity.

Of course, you don’t have to bother and do everything standard, the old fashioned way. But you will overpay for the absolutely unnecessary (read: useless) thickness of copper in cables for lighting and sockets. Plus you will get a “short” shield for 5-6 machines, which is inconvenient.

Unfortunately, so far the percentage of projects with progressive electrical wiring is more than modest. Neither homeowners nor, most sadly, electricians have “matured.” And one of the biggest difficulties today is to find a master who not only acts according to an ingrained pattern (albeit with all responsibility and with his hands in the right place), but has his finger on the pulse of electrical and lighting technologies. But there are no hopeless situations, and when repairs are needed, there are at least two ways out:

hire a real professional “for all the money in the world” and set a clear task for him, so that it is with the latest technology;
understand the subtleties and nuances on your own (a start has already been made, since you have finished reading this article). To explain to the electrician what you want, on your fingers. And then carefully monitor each stage of the implementation of your dream project. In other words, stand above your soul and control every day what is done and how.

I hope that after reading this you are interested in trying to implement a project using the new capabilities and potential of modern lighting and electrical engineering. Wishing you easy and quick repairs and a comfortable life!