How to properly build a veranda roof. Do-it-yourself veranda: step-by-step solutions for a DIY extension to your house

Extensions to a house, as a rule, are built in cases where it is necessary to expand the living space, arrange a veranda or terrace for summer recreation, or obtain additional space to accommodate a garage or any utility rooms. Of course, such an extension must have a reliable roof. And very often in such cases, questions are raised by the connection of the roof of the extension with the walls of the main building or with its roof. These areas are the most vulnerable to the likelihood of leaks, which, unfortunately, happens quite often if installed incorrectly.

To figure out how to make a high-quality roof, it makes sense to analyze in detail some of the nuances of the various options for its construction. Naturally, paying special attention to the implementation of waterproofing work when arranging the lines of joints and junctions.

A few words about the basic roof structure

To make it easier to understand the terminology in the future, so to speak, to “speak the same language,” it makes sense to consider a schematic diagram of the roof structure. The hip version is taken as an example, simply because it usually includes almost all the elements that make up a rafter system of any type.

So, the rafter system consists of the following parts, each of which has a specific purpose:

• Mauerlat - this is a powerful beam, laid and secured around the perimeter of the house on its load-bearing walls. It is intended for the most uniform weight distribution of the entire roof structure and external loads falling on it. Very often it is on this structural element that the underside of the rafter legs is fixed.
• - these, one might say, are the main parts of any system, forming the roof slopes and serving as the basis for fastening the sheathing and roofing material. Rafters are made from boards that have the cross-section necessary to ensure strength.
• Diagonal (sloping) rafters - these elements are part of the hip, half-hip and multi-gable rafter system. They are installed at the corners of the building and connect them to the ridge girder (ridge).
• Narozhniki - this is also a rafter, but has a shorter length. They rest their ends on the mauerlat and diagonal (hip) rafters. (with a multi-gable roof - on the ridge girder and diagonal rafter)
• Ridge run - a longitudinal board or beam onto which the rafters are fixed in their upper part.
• Tightening - horizontalq timber or board, fastening together opposite rafter legs in a pair, in their lower or middle part. The bottom ties can also simultaneously serve as attic floor beams. If they are installed in the middle part of the rafters, then the rafter system may additionally include a beam that acts as a floor beam.
• Racks or headstocks - structural reinforcement elements. They are installed on a tie (or on a bench installed on an internal main wall) and support the ridge girder or directly the rafter leg, thereby reducing its span between the support points.
• Strut - a diagonally located reinforcement element, resting on one side against the rafter leg, and on the other, against the tie, bench or stand. This part of the rafter system serves to give it additional rigidity, and also helps to remove part of the load from the weight of the structure from the walls of the building.
• Sprengel - element, characteristic of hip rafter systems. This is timber contracting in the corners there is a mauerlat and serves as the basis for the racks supporting the diagonal rafters (which are usually the largest in length). This reinforcement detail also helps relieve the load from the walls of the house.
• Wind beam - an optional, but still quite often used element of system strengthening. This is a diagonally located board, which is fixed on the rafter legs from the attic side and makes the structure more rigid. This element is necessary if the roof slopes have a steep slope. Usually placed on the windward side.
• filly - a board or beam with which the rafter legs are built up in the lower part. They are usually designed to form the eaves overhang of roof slopes.

Prices for fastenings for rafters

fastenings for rafters

So, the main elements in any rafter system are the elements that form the roof slopes - these are the rafters and the ridge girder. The remaining parts can be considered auxiliary, so only some of them can be used in different systems.

Types of extension roofs

What options are possible in principle?

First, it’s worth figuring out what the roof of an extension to a house might be like. It is quite obvious that its type will directly depend on the design of the main rafter system and how the extension is located relative to the main building.

So, either the expansion of the residential building itself, or the addition of an auxiliary room separate from it, can be carried out on one, two or even three sides of the house. Therefore, the roof for it can have different types of construction.

The most popular option for an extension roof is, as it has the simplest design and is not particularly difficult to install. This option is usually used when an extension is being made on only one side of the house, usually along its long side.

However, the roof of the extension can also have a gable, half-hip or hip structure. There are even more complex configurations of rafter systems, which, in combination with the roof of the main building, form a multi-gable structure. But they are usually planned during a complete renovation of a house, thus even changing its architectural style.

Most often, the owners of average private houses do not bother too much and choose a simple pitched roof for an extension located along one of the walls of the building.

Who among the owners of a private house does not dream of a real terrace? This small extension can be an option for expanding your home, but to make it functional and comfortable, it needs to be done correctly. Often, options with a transparent roof are chosen for arranging an extension. A polycarbonate roof for a terrace can be an excellent option for making this wish come true.

First, a few words about what a terrace is. This is an extension that allows you to be at home and outside at the same time, allowing you to combine comfort and relaxation in the fresh air. As a rule, these extensions turn out to be very light and visually spacious, since they have large areas of glazing - walls, roof, etc.

The terrace has many functions - it allows you to relax here, set up a summer kitchen, or create playrooms. Often on holidays, the whole family and friends gather at a large festive table under the roof of the terrace, and such gatherings become truly magical and homely.

You can build a terrace from various materials. Gas blocks, bricks, and wood are used. But most home owners want the veranda to be as bright as possible. Then transparent materials come to the rescue - glass and polycarbonate. The latter is quite often used to construct the roof for this room.

On a note! Regardless of what shape and type the veranda will be made, it is very simple to construct. You won’t have to spend a lot of effort on its construction. Usually this design has the simplest frame and simple roof.

Table. Main types of terraces.

Type	Description
	It is located, as you might guess, right at the entrance to the house. The extension is made in such a way that when leaving the house, a person first finds himself on the terrace, and only then on the street.
	Such a terrace will encircle the entire house in a circle. Very often it is performed open or has the simplest frame.
	This terrace is located on the sunny side of the house on the second floor. It will allow you to build a cozy solarium there for sunbathing.

The types of roofs on terraces can also be different - for example, simple pitched roofs, arched roofs, reminiscent of a greenhouse in shape. And there may not be walls at all - only supports. It is worth choosing the configuration of the terrace at the design stage - the choice of types of materials, as well as their quantity required to create the building, will depend on this.

On a note! A terrace can sometimes be called a veranda, but this is not entirely correct, although it is not prohibited. The fact is that the veranda differs from the terrace in the floor height. For the first, it will be located on the same level as the foundation, and for the second, it will lie on the ground. There are no other special differences between these two buildings.

Features of polycarbonate

Why is polycarbonate often chosen to create transparent roofs? It's simple - this polymer material has a number of advantages that allow it to surpass in many characteristics the usual and familiar glass. This is good transparency, but at the same time the absence of a tendency to serious deformations under mechanical influence on the coating, the ability to better retain heat, and a lower price.

Polycarbonate happens cellular and monolithic. The first consists of two thin sheets of transparent plastic connected by stiffening ribs. This is a fairly plastic and flexible material that bends easily and retains heat well due to the air located between the two polymer sheets. The material has transparency, but not as good as the monolithic version.

Monolithic polycarbonate is more reminiscent of glass in appearance. It is absolutely transparent and has higher strength characteristics. There are no voids inside, which is why the material retains heat worse. This type of polycarbonate is actively used in construction, but costs several times more than cellular coating. Greenhouses are usually made from cellular polycarbonate.

On a note! Unfortunately, polycarbonate, especially cellular, is not without its drawbacks. It still remains a rather fragile material compared to other roofing coverings, it is easily scratched, and the cavities inside it can become clogged and the coating will no longer look presentable.

But anyway polycarbonate is one of the most commonly used materials for creating terrace roofs. It is lightweight, but at the same time quite durable, thanks to which it is able to withstand certain snow loads, and can bend if necessary to design a sloping roof. It is also easy to install; even a beginner in construction can cope with the task of arranging a polycarbonate roof. At the same time, the material allows light to pass through and makes it possible to obtain a fairly warm room due to its low thermal conductivity.

Attention! A closed terrace with a cellular polycarbonate roof must have windows that can be opened. In hot weather it will be very difficult to be under such a roof - the “greenhouse effect” will work. That is why it is often recommended to use colored polycarbonate rather than transparent, since it transmits less light and it is easier to create an optimal temperature regime.

Prices for cellular polycarbonate

Why is a polycarbonate terrace a great option?

A polycarbonate terrace has a number of advantages. That is why roofing is often made from this material. It is different:

• light weight;
• no need to use heavy equipment during construction;
• large selection of colors;
• excellent strength and ability to withstand moderate snow and wind loads;
• harmlessness from the point of view of ecology and human health;
• long service life.

Most of the disadvantages of polycarbonate can be circumvented with proper care of such a terrace, but it is worth knowing about them. This is the possibility of cracks appearing in places where the material is attached to the frame, the occurrence of fragility of the coating if the protective film on the outside of the material is damaged, as well as the possibility of clogging of channels (honeycombs), which will lead to a decrease in heat retention, as well as an unflattering appearance of the roof.

When designing a terrace, it is important to take into account a lot of aspects, including its size - it should not be too small. Minimum size – 12 m2. This will provide enough space for relaxation.

On a note! The shape of the roof also matters. But the simplest option, which does not require any hassle either when creating a frame or when installing a roof covering, is a pitched flat roof.

It is important to first draw up the most accurate drawing that will allow you not only to imagine what the extension will look like, but also to calculate the amount of materials needed for construction. The frame itself is easiest to make from metal or wood. Sometimes block supports or brick bases are used.

Only after this the necessary materials and fasteners are purchased. When purchasing polycarbonate, do not forget about special profiles and components for it. In some cases, you can do without them, but then the roof may lose its appearance and collapse faster.

Table. Polycarbonate profiles.

Profile	Description	Appearance
U.P.	The end profile has dimensions of 4, 6, 8,10, 16, 20, 25 mm x 2010 mm. Necessary to protect the ends of the material from debris and insects getting into them.
TO	Ridge, 4, 6, 8, 10, 16 mm x 6 m. Allows you to connect individual polycarbonate sheets at the top point without leaving gaps between them. This will prevent roof leaks.
HCP	Detachable docking, 4, 6, 8, 10, 16 mm x 6 m. Needed to connect two adjacent polycarbonate sheets. The lower and upper parts of the profile are separated to facilitate installation.
HP	One-piece docking, 4, 6, 8, 10 mm x 6 m. Needed to connect two adjacent polycarbonate sheets. The profile is not parsed, unlike the previous version.
U	Corner, 4, 6, 8, 10 mm x 6 m. Allows you to connect sheets that are at right angles to each other.
F	Wall-mounted, 4, 6, 8, 10 mm x 6 m. Will prevent water from getting between the roof and the wall. Provides thermal insulation to this area.

A powerful foundation for such a terrace is not needed, since most of the materials used are very light. It is enough to form a concrete screed up to 10 cm thick. For support posts, recesses up to 50 cm will be sufficient.

Attention! When purchasing polycarbonate and calculating its quantity, it is important to remember that the sheet has standard dimensions - 305 x 205 cm. The thickness of polycarbonate can be different (the best option is 4-6 mm). To reduce the amount of waste generated, it is better to take the length of the roof slope the same as the length of the sheet.

Prices for polycarbonate profiles

Polycarbonate profiles

Creating a foundation and installing supports

Let's look at how the process of building a terrace occurs. Let's start with the foundation. In this case, it will be an economical option.

Step 1. Using a bayonet shovel, the future contour of the trench is marked in the location chosen on the site.

Step 2. A ditch is created for the strip foundation. You can also make formwork from wooden boards.

Step 3. Broken bricks and reinforcement are placed in the ditch. In this case, the reinforcement must be installed vertically at the locations where future roof supports will be installed.

Step 4. The ditch is filled with concrete and the strip foundation is dried.

Step 6. Polyethylene is laid around the perimeter of the base. It can be pressed down with pieces of bricks.

Step 7 The base is covered with sand, the sand is well compacted.

Step 8 The base can be decorated with decorative borders.

Step 10 The support is placed on previously installed reinforcement protruding from the base in the area where the supports are installed. The base of the plinth and the lower part of the support are coated with cement mortar. The support is leveled.

Step 11 The internal cavity remaining between the reinforcement and the support wall is filled with concrete mixture.

Step 13 The wooden columns are already prepared - there are holes for reinforcement in their lower parts. The underside of the columns is also coated with mastic.

Step 14 Next, each column is installed on a plinth - they are put on the protruding reinforcement and installed on small concrete supports. To prevent the columns from tipping over, they can be secured with wooden slopes.

Step 15 A beam is installed on top of the two columns at the end of the extension, connecting them to each other. Next, all columns are connected by strapping beams. Thus, a ready-made frame for the terrace is obtained, and the simplest rafter system for the roof is installed.

Installation of polycarbonate roofing

Step 1. Polycarbonate sheets are cut to size if necessary. To do this, you can use any wood cutting tool.

Step 2. The edges of the protective film covering the sheets are folded over the entire perimeter of the material. Next, a special tape is glued to the ends to protect against dust. Also, all ends of the installed sheets must be covered with protective end profiles.

Attention! When cutting connecting profiles when installing on a curved structure, it is important to take into account that their bending radius is greater than that of the sheets themselves. Therefore, they should be slightly longer than the polycarbonate sheet itself. The easiest way is to trim them after installation.

Step 3. Polycarbonate is laid up with the side that has UV protection. As a rule, a protective film is glued to this side. The direction of the air channels should be oriented along the roof slope. This will allow moisture to escape naturally.

Step 4. Each sheet is aligned along the roof ridge. The bottom edge of the sheet should protrude slightly beyond the edge of the entire structure.

Step 5. A base profile is attached along the end edge of the roof. Fixation is carried out with special self-tapping bolts located on the center line of the profile.

Step 6. The sheet is fixed along the eaves of the roof. The first and last screws will be screwed in at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the sheet. The rest are at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Holes with a slightly larger diameter than the screws themselves are drilled into the material at the fastening points.

Attention! Fastening polycarbonate should only be done with suitable fastening material - self-tapping screws with seals.

Step 7 After fixing the end sheet and installing the base profile, a clamping profile-cover is attached along the end edge of the roof.

Step 8 To connect individual polycarbonate sheets in a row, it is recommended to use detachable connecting profiles. In this case, first the lower part of the profile is fixed on the roof frame, then polycarbonate sheets are laid, and only then the upper part of the profile is put on.

Step 9 Upon completion of installation, the protective film is removed from the polycarbonate surface. The work has been completed.

If polycarbonate is installed on a curved structure, then it is important to remember the maximum bending radius of the material. You cannot bend it, otherwise it will break.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - 6x3 terrace made of timber and polycarbonate

Video - Terrace with a polycarbonate roof

This is, perhaps, all the information you need to know in order to cover your terrace with polycarbonate yourself. If you use all the necessary components, the work will go quickly, and the result will be excellent!

The veranda can easily be called the center of country life. This kind of continuation of the house, depending on the design features (open or closed), allows you to gather household members or guests under your roof. Climatic conditions and the purpose of the extension determine the construction of the structure. Usually it serves as a place to relax in the warm season, and in winter it is used as a utility room. Of course, if you wish, you can insulate it and arrange a greenhouse, library, etc. In the article we will talk about how to build a veranda roof.

Veranda roof

It is optimal to design the construction of a veranda from the very beginning. But, if it so happens that it has to be erected to an existing house, then several recommendations must be taken into account:

• the use of materials from which residential real estate was built will help achieve perfect harmony;
• a wooden house shrinks within 2-3 years, so extensions should not be made before this period has expired;
• the veranda is positioned in such a way that there is access to it from the inner room (kitchen, corridor);
• It is desirable that the foundation and roof for the main building and veranda be the same. If the extension is erected later, the frame is supported on brick columns, and the roof is made with a large slope;
• the length of the building usually corresponds to the wall parameter, the width does not exceed 2.5 m.

Veranda roof photo

Rules for constructing a roof for a veranda

• As a rule, the roof is finished with the same material and in the same color scheme as the main structure. This approach will avoid disharmony and ensure visual continuation. A shed roof for a veranda most often has a steep slope, which allows snow masses falling from the house during a thaw not to accumulate on the roof.
• The roof structure is made using lumber. To increase the service life of the finished frame, all wooden elements are treated with impregnations. The products provide protection from moisture, fire, and woodworm damage.
• For safety reasons, the slope of the roof is arranged away from the entrance. In winter, this will prevent unpleasant consequences associated with snow melting.
• The pitch of the rafters and sheathing is determined by the material that will be used for covering. The junction between the roof of the veranda and the wall of the house deserves special attention. It must be reliably insulated, otherwise leaks cannot be avoided.

• Waterproofing should not be neglected, especially if the building is covered and will be used until late autumn and used as storage in winter. Next, useful tips will be given on how to make a roof on the veranda.

DIY veranda roof

• The slope of this type of roof should be much higher than the minimum - 12-15°. The supporting structure, including rafters, racks and other elements, is made of boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm.

Veranda roof installation photo

• The construction of the roof begins with determining the side of its slope. An additional frame, which is installed on the top frame of the future extension, will help create the required height.
• It is made from bars with a height of 600-800 mm or more, depending on the planned slope. The upper horizontal beam is attached to the wall of the main building using anchor bolts. The frame racks are also attached in the same way. All structural parts are fixed together with hardware or metal corners.
• Spacers are inserted into the resulting rectangle every 500 mm; they will strengthen the load-bearing capacity of the roof. To increase rigidity, the racks are reinforced with braces installed at an angle of 45°.
• Cuts are made in the strapping bars at the rafter attachment points for their installation.
• The upper ends of the rafters are installed on a purlin (horizontal beam) running along the wall of the house and connected to the frame posts of the veranda. The underside of the supports is inserted into the prepared recesses of the trim. Fastening of wooden elements is carried out using nails or screws.

• The step between the elements of the rafter system is determined by:
  • total length of the roof;
  • angle of inclination (the greater it is, the more often longitudinal supports are placed);
  • the length of the rafter legs (a high indicator reduces the step between elements);
  • choice of roofing material (for lightweight materials, the distance between the rafters can be maximum).
• Step recommended by experts depending on the roofing material:
  • ceramic tiles - up to 35 cm;
  • metal tiles - 60-90 cm;
  • corrugated sheeting - 60-90 cm;
  • ondulin - 60-100 cm;
  • slate - up to 80 cm;
  • polycarbonate - 700 -105 cm.

• The roof is covered with lathing, which can be solid or thin; again, the laying of horizontal boards is determined by the type of covering. Rolled materials are spread on a continuous flooring. During installation, it is advisable to cut the material in such a way that its edges on all sides of the roof are 10 cm larger. Later they will be folded and nailed with special nails.
• Before laying insulating or roofing material, a metal apron must be installed at the junction of the roof and the wall of the house. Here you can also use additional elements (internal corners) corresponding to the roofing.
• Such parts will provide reliable protection against possible leaks, will not create problems when fastening similar materials and will give the building a complete look.

Brief overview of roofing materials

Name	dignity	flaws	cost (m²)	difficulty of installation
natural tiles	The most important advantage is high resistance to adverse weather conditions (temperature changes, humidity, ultraviolet rays). It has excellent hydro- and sound-proofing properties. Not flammable. Almost eternal.	High price. Significant weight requires the installation of a reliable rafter system	from 1000 to 2200 rub. The cost depends on the country of origin
metal tiles	It is highly resistant to mechanical stress and difficult operating conditions. Decorative qualities are also excellent. Fireproof. The service life can be 30-50 years.	Low sound insulation characteristics. Large waste, especially if the roof has complex shapes. The coating is prone to condensation. Additional costs for arranging the under-roof structure. Not recommended for roofs with minimal slope.	230-300 rub.	It is better to entrust installation to specialists
profiled sheet	A variety of colors and reasonable prices allow corrugated sheeting to maintain its leading position. Fire-resistant, lightweight, but durable sheets will last at least 40-50 years.	Low noise insulation properties require a sound-absorbing substrate. If the protective layer of the sheet is damaged, corrosion may occur.	180-220 rub.	let's do it ourselves
ondulin	A rich palette and high protective qualities distinguish it from other roofing materials. Among the advantages are: waterproofness, mechanical strength, resistance to corrosion, excellent sound insulation.	The minimum service life is up to 20 years. Flammability of the material. Tendency to fade when exposed to sunlight.	200-300 rub.	It is better to entrust installation to professionals, but if you have the necessary knowledge, you can do the installation yourself
slate	This material has gained wide popularity due to its affordable cost and longer service life. Not subject to corrosion. Service life is about 50 years.	Fragility of the material. Hygroscopicity leads to the formation of mold and fungi.	from 105 rub. for gray slate and from 150 rub. for painted	let's do it ourselves

Polycarbonate roof for veranda

• An excellent solution for covering the roof on the veranda is polycarbonate. It will add lightness to the structure and harmonizes perfectly with brick buildings and structures decorated with natural or artificial stone.

Veranda roof photo

• Its transparency allows more natural light to enter the room, without the penetration of harmful ultraviolet radiation. One of the disadvantages of this roofing covering is its poor resistance to mechanical and abrasive influences.
• Despite some airiness, the material is durable and reliable. It is able to withstand severe loads in the form of snow, rain and strong winds. The recommended sheet thickness is 6-10 mm.
• Polycarbonate makes it possible to design the roof in an original style, thanks to the choice of shade and bend shape. The covering is mounted both on a metal frame and on a traditional wooden sheathing.
• Of course, with a metal base you will have to spend a lot of time, if you take into account the curved lines of the future roof. Therefore, it is better to entrust such projects to a specialized company.

As for the sheathing under a flat sheet of polycarbonate, here it is enough to follow a few rules:

• During installation, stiffening ribs should be located along the slope, thereby preventing moisture and condensation from retaining and accumulating;

• It is not recommended to lay a whole sheet on the roof; it is better to cut it to a width of 1050 or 700 mm;
• the pitch of the rafters is selected in such a way that the joint of the sheets falls on a wooden support - accordingly it will be 1050 or 700 mm;
• During the work, profiles are used that hermetically and aesthetically cover the joints and the ends of the sheet. Connecting parts are detachable and permanent, transparent and colored;
• if a whole panel is to be laid, then it is necessary to arrange a transverse lathing. For this, bars measuring at least 50x20 mm are used. The distance between them should be 500-700 mm;
• The polycarbonate is fixed using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 350-400 mm. Hardware must have a sealing washer that will prevent moisture from getting between the material and the wooden support;

• holes for fasteners must be drilled in advance, and the diameter of the drill should be a couple of millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw;
• screwing is carried out until the washer fits tightly to the material, but without deformation (jamming) of the latter.

Roof drains on the veranda

• An important element of any structure is a system for draining rain and melt water. The veranda and the house should have separate gutters. The fact is that the existing system may not cope with its purpose due to the increased area.
• Here it is enough to use standard U-shaped gutters. They can be covered with a mesh that will prevent leaves, branches and other large debris from entering. The main thing is that the drainage is carried out as far as possible from the foundation of the house. The ideal option would be the outlet of the drainpipe in close proximity to the storm drain.

If desired, the veranda can be insulated and glazed. It is important to remember here that the larger the glazing area, the greater the heat loss. The material is selected taking into account the overall style of the house. It can be timber, rounded logs, brick, metal.

It is not necessary to carry out the entire construction using one type of material. So, a veranda made entirely of brick will turn into a banal extension. In such cases, stone is used for the construction of support columns or other load-bearing elements.

Today we will talk about such a building structure as a roof over a terrace. Nowadays, terraces and open verandas are increasingly being added to house designs in private housing construction. The approach to constructing the roof of this extension must meet certain requirements that apply to the house itself. There are several options here, so let's look at each. If you can understand the differences between the types of terrace roofing structures, it will be easy for you to control its construction.

Original roof over the open terrace Source modern.co.ua

What is a terrace

This is an extension to the main house, open or closed, which is covered with its own roof. Since the room is attached to the main building, the roof will accordingly be adjacent either to the roof structure of the house or to the wall of the latter. This means that the joint in this case is the most vulnerable point. Builders pay special attention to it in terms of tightness.

Terrace roof

It should be noted that there are no special structures that cover the terraces. Standard models are used here, but more often: single-pitched (separate or common with the roof of the main house), gable (separate or common), hip.

Of course, you can approach the construction of the structure from a more complex side, choosing, for example, a multi-gable or multi-level option. But such extensions are rare, and they are built near houses with the same roofs. That is, to preserve a single architectural content.

In this article, we will be interested in simpler roofs.

Complex shaped roof over the open veranda Source zelenj.ru

Single-pitch

There are two options here:

separate;

shared with the main house.

Option #1

It is used if the extension will be used only in the summer. That is, the roof is assembled without insulation. Although thermal insulation is not very difficult. But it just so happened that this type of roofing structure is assembled cold.

The main task of the work contractor is to correctly attach the rafter legs to the wall of the main house. It must be reliable and durable. Here are several ways:

Use special U-shaped brackets, which are installed upside down against the wall. It is into the groove of the bracket that the end of the rafter leg is inserted (recessed), which is secured there with self-tapping screws. They screw in from the side. The brackets themselves, firstly, are installed at the same horizontal level. Secondly, they are attached to the wall with anchors.

Roof rafters for the terrace, fixed to the wall of the house with brackets Source serviceyards.com

On our website you can get acquainted with the most from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

Use load-bearing beam with a thickness of at least 50 mm, which is attached to the wall with anchors. It is on this that the rafter legs are laid. The elements (beam and legs) are fastened together with steel angles and self-tapping screws.

Made in the wall grooves for rafter sizes and a depth of 10-15 cm. The ends of the rafter legs are inserted into these grooves. There is no need to do the fastening.

Sometimes an extension is made a full-fledged structure, that is, from four walls. To create an angle of inclination, the wall of the terrace, built near the wall of the main house, is built higher than the opposite wall. The Mauerlat is first mounted on both supporting structures, and then the rafters are installed on it and attached to it. You can not raise the wall of the veranda near the house high. Only for this you will have to make trusses in the form of triangles, thereby forming a slope. They are installed on the walls of the extension.

Installation of roof trusses for an attached veranda Source skb21.ru

Option No. 2

This is a house with a veranda under one roof. It should be noted that such a roofing structure can be assembled on a house being built, the design of which has a terrace, or if a veranda is being added to an old building. But purely technologically, everything will depend on which side it is attached to. That is, it can be a continuation of the house, or it can become part of the side (the length of the side).

So, this roofing structure is used only if one of the roof slopes of the main house becomes the roof of the extension. Therefore, the common house rafter system is built taking into account the dimensions of the terrace. In this case, the length of the rafter legs is increased, but their upper ends are laid on the ridge of the roof of the house.

At the same time, as practice shows, the length of the rafters is quite long, so supports are installed under the feet, increasing the reliability of the structure. To give you an idea of ​​what we're talking about, look at the photo below. It clearly shows how the common roof is being constructed.

Common roof over the veranda and the house Source mebel-go.ru

It should be noted that the overall design is not an easy structure in terms of reliability. Therefore, it must be carefully calculated, taking into account the existing loads. This mainly concerns the cross-section of the rafter legs and the step of their installation.

Gable

The roof of the terrace to the house with two slopes is a complex structure in its structural content. Here, as in the previous case, there are two versions: a separate roof and a common one with the house.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing extensions to existing houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Option #1

The assembly of the roof of this type of veranda is carried out using a full-fledged technology for the construction of gable roof structures. That is, they form a ridge: laying a beam under which support posts are installed. If the extension is small, then often a support is not installed at the end of the ridge, which rests against the wall of the main house. It is attached by any means to the wall of the main building. This could be a groove made, a bracket, and so on. Be sure to form a Mauerlat and install a rafter system in two slopes.

For example, in the photo below you can clearly see how a terrace with a gable roof without a ceiling is attached to an open-type wooden house with the formation of a mauerlat and a ridge.

Gable structure over an open veranda Source pikabu.ru

Option No. 2

This design is complex in its construction. Essentially, this is the roof of the house, which is extended by the length (or width) of the extension. Typically, such roofs are used only if there is a need to cover an open terrace.

If the house design includes a closed veranda covered by a common roof with the building, then this is no longer considered an extension. This is part of the general structure, the construction of which is carried out according to the general rules for the construction of buildings.

Open extensions are rarely covered with a common roof. The construction process itself is too complicated, requiring a large amount of building materials, which increases the construction budget. But such projects occur, for example, as in the photo below.

Gable roof for the terrace, shared with the main house Source montos.ru

Other varieties

I would like to show that the roof on the terrace of the house is not only one- and two-pitch models. If you set a goal, you can, in principle, build any configuration. For example, the photo below shows an interesting version of the hip roof of a house, the eaves of which are extended further than the wall, simultaneously forming a roofing structure for an open veranda.

Here it should be noted that there is no extension as such in this project. The roof simply forms a space that can be used for personal needs. Please note that the roof structure extended outside the house rests on the pillars. This is the right decision by designers to ensure the reliability of the roof as a whole.

Terrace under the common roof of a hip-type house Source oooarsenal.ru

The following photo shows a project of a house with an open terrace covered with a half-hipped roof. Notice how it clearly emphasizes the continuation of the roof of the house.

Half-hip roofing structure for terrace Source oooarsenal.ru

And another original option, clearly integrated into the architecture of the building. Everything is thought out to the smallest detail, and the terrace itself, built in the form of a gazebo, looks great against the backdrop of the house.

Hip roof of an open veranda Source tr.skopelitissa.com

Nuances of construction

If the option is chosen to cover terrace roofs with the same structure as the house, then there are practically no problems with the tightness of the structure. The main thing is to competently carry out the entire installation process from installing the Mauerlat to covering it with roofing material.

If the roof of the veranda is a separate structure from the roof of the house, then the structure contains a line of connection to the wall. And this place is very vulnerable to the formation of leaks. Therefore, this joint has to be sealed or closed. More often, two processes are carried out at once for reliability. What they do:

Cover the joint with bitumen mastic with laying rolled bitumen material onto the wall of the house and onto the roof of the extension.

Mount the cover strip- This is an element made of galvanized sheet in the form of a corner, painted in the color of the roofing material. One shelf is attached to the wall with screws on plastic dowels, the second to the roof with roofing screws.

Video description

And at the end, we suggest watching a video of how the roof of a terrace extension is erected according to one of the proposed options:

Video description

Examples of transparent polycarbonate roofs are in the following video:

Conclusion on the topic

Attaching a roof to the veranda is not difficult if you choose a simple option. With the small size of the building itself, this takes one day. But, as practice shows, construction must be approached from the perspective of the basic laws of construction, which necessarily takes into account the dimensional parameters of all elements of the roof structure. Therefore, even a small structure requires accurate calculations.

As a rule, multi-storey buildings are rarely equipped with pitched roofs, even though their design conforms to the newfangled high-tech style. Roofs of this type are mainly found on garages, small cottages, verandas, and cabins: this implies the possibility of carrying out construction work with your own hands.

What is special about a pitched roof?

Before you build a pitched roof, it is important to study its main features. The name of the pitched roof speaks for itself. It consists of only one pitched plane, having an original rafter system. The rafter legs at both ends are equipped with reliable support, which allows them to be classified as a layered type. Each part of the structure is laid individually, since the installation walls have different heights: in this case, a Mauerlat is used to connect to them.

The rafter system of a pitched roof does not look like a standard wooden frame. It consists of two bars placed on top of a stone wall parallel to each other. In the same way, the installation of log logs and opposite sides of the framing of the frame house is carried out. To avoid confusion, the specified Mauerlat element is designated as a ridge beam. It is important to understand that it does not participate in the formation of a ridge fracture, but acts only as a support.

To perform the supporting function when building a pitched roof with your own hands, the following are used:

1. Load-bearing structures made of brick, wood and foam concrete.
2. Support pillars, which can subsequently be sheathed, or remain in an open position.

Although the design of lean-to structures is simple, there are a sufficient number of its varieties. Like other pitched roofs, they can be insulated or remain cold. Also, pitched roofs may have attics, although not always. The obstacle in this case is fire safety standards, according to which the attic should not be lower than 160 cm. Mono-pitch structures are characterized by flatness, with a slope angle ranging from 5-15 degrees. If you convert it into percentages, you get 5-25%.

Taking into account these proportions, the attic is arranged in the form of a residential semi-attic or technical room. For this, the gap between the roof and the ceiling is used.

A do-it-yourself pitched roof is usually used in the following cases:

1. For the design of various kinds of extensions such as terraces, garages, bathhouses, entrance complexes, garages, verandas, sheds, etc.
2. As a covering for individual buildings for domestic and commercial purposes.

Among other structures, pitched roofs stand out for their maximum convenience of technical characteristics, which reduces the risk of snow bags to a minimum. If the architectural situation requires it, they can be fully replaced with hip structures. These competitors have a very beautiful form, with more significant financial costs and complexity of implementation.

The difference in the height of the supporting walls allows sediment to be drained from sloped surfaces naturally. This allows you to avoid spending money on arranging internal drains. Basically, the lower side of a lean-to structure is decorated with a gutter, through which all the water is easily drained outside the building. Even in the event of heavy rains and melting snow, problems usually do not arise. Flat roof cleaning techniques are used to remove accumulated sediment.

How to install a drain on a roof with one slope

To ensure the required slope in this case, the following methods can be used:

1. The difference in height of supporting walls or rows of special pillar-type supports.
2. Using half-trusses, made independently, or purchased ready-made. They are installed in cases where the supporting walls or pillars are of the same height.
3. Supports are attached to the walls of the house, raising the roof structure higher than the level of the parallel wall.

Shed roofs are most often covered with rolled materials, corrugated sheets, roofing sheets, and metal tiles. It is important to understand that piece material can be installed only in cases where the slope angle specified by the manufacturer in the accompanying documentation is provided. If this parameter is insignificant, then it is better not to use shingles, straw, reeds and other similar material to cover a pitched roof, as it can quickly rot.

Features of installation of a lean-to structure

To learn in detail how to make a pitched roof of a house with your own hands, it is proposed to consider an example of constructing a rafter frame made of wood. Lumber is the easiest to process and affordable option. As you know, any work begins with drawing up a project, which takes into account all the individual features of this object.

To determine the cross-section of the elements of the rafter structure, if people will not move along them, you need to take into account the total weight of the roof and the snow cap. To calculate the roof of a detached building, all possible static and dynamic impacts to which the structure is exposed throughout the year are taken into account. When calculating the rafter legs of a lean-to system, they can be compared with conventional horizontal beams.

When creating a project for a pitched roof, some general principles should be taken into account. To construct rafters for a pitched roof with your own hands, wood is most often used, due to its environmental friendliness and low cost.

It is important to remember the characteristics of natural organic materials. For example, wood is prone to fluctuations in linear parameters, depending on climatic conditions. Very long wooden elements usually sag if additional supports are not provided under them.

Such specificity of wood will require some complication of the design, which is influenced by the parameters of the distance to be covered:

• If we are talking about a distance between supporting elements of up to 4.5 m, then when installing the rafters of a pitched roof with your own hands, additional supports will not be needed.
• The distance from 4.5 to 6 m involves the use of rafter legs, which are called struts. In this way, additional rigidity is usually provided to canopies with any length of rafters.
• If the distance between the supports is from 6 to 9 m, a pair of struts is installed to support the rafter leg on both sides.
• A distance from 9 to 12 m will require the use of a cantilever-girder system to divide the span into two conditional segments. This structure includes a durable wooden frame with a purlin on top. Vertical posts are used to support it. The struts that support both parts of the long rafter are laid on structural supports.
• If we are talking about distances over 12 m, sector zoning of the span is used using purlin structures. As for arranging the span inside each zone, for this you can use any of the methods described above for installing a single-pitch rafter system with your own hands.

The rafter legs are separated by a distance determined by the parameters of the box being constructed. To divide the supporting walls under the roof frame, the easiest way is to use the same distances. In this case, it is important to ensure that each of the edges of the structure has a separate rafter leg. To place ordinary legs between them, an even step is used.

Usually we are talking about certain restrictions on the breakdown, which is influenced by the technical characteristics of the selected material:

• If the rafter legs are made of logs, plates or beams, the step parameters are recommended within 1.5-2 m.
• To install plank rafters, a distance of 1-1.75 m is taken.

In addition, regardless of the calculations, the cross-sectional dimensions are also limited. Even in the case of a small load, the log cannot be thinner than 12 cm, the plate - 7 cm, and the board - 4 cm.

When constructing a pitched roof with your own hands, it is important to take into account that if there are spans of more than 4.6 m, the rafter legs will be made not only from timber and boards. You will need to prepare additional lumber for the struts. We are talking about a log 10 cm thick, a beam with a side of more than 8 cm and a paired board 25x150 mm.

For a Mauerlat beam, the minimum size is determined to be 100x200 mm, for the same log - a diameter of at least 180-200 mm. If the roof must cover a span of more than 12 m, purlins and beams are used. For this purpose, timber with a size of 180x180 mm and a log with a cross-section of at least 200 mm are used. To make cantilever purlins for a long-span roof, you will need a beam with a side of more than 120 mm or a log with a diameter of at least 130 mm.

Do-it-yourself construction of a pitched roof on a frame house

After successfully completing the design documentation, builders receive detailed instructions on how to make a pitched roof for a house with their own hands. For greater clarity, you can look at an example of installing a pitched roof on a garage with your own hands step by step.

In this case, the top trim will be used as support for the rafters. Calculation of the installation step for the rafter legs is not required, because in this case it is the same as the distance between the posts of the frame wall. They are usually made from 50x150 mm boards. Let’s take 2.5 m for the height of the front wall, 2.2 m for the back wall.

We make a pitched garage roof in this order:

1. The board is cut into pieces of 265-270 cm. Their number should match the number of supports of the front wall.
2. The racks for the rear wall are made in the same way. Their length is taken to be 235-240 cm.
3. When installing ready-made racks, fastening to metal corners is used. For temporary fixation of the outer elements, jibs are used.
4. To check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the racks, you will need a building level: any irregularities noticed should be corrected immediately. To set the horizon on the front elements, a height of 250 cm is taken, and on the rear elements – 220 cm.
5. The resulting marks are used to install the side board.
6. Excess sections on the racks protruding over the side boards are cut off locally.
7. Installing side boards over end walls. Before this, fitting is carried out by applying the board to the place of future fixation.
8. Precise dimensions will be required to make the side wall posts. When installing them, the same step is used as on the front and rear walls. As for the doorway, it can be left at this stage, or cut out along with the windows after the shed rafters are made.
9. After installing the trim over the end posts, the side board is removed.
10. Another one is made above the existing harness, with the obligatory bandaging of the corners.
11. The rafters are cut from 50x150 mm boards. Their length includes the parameters of two eaves overhangs, with a margin of 10-15 cm.
12. The installation of a pair of rafter legs must be carried out strictly along the side walls. To fix them, use corners, with an installation frequency of 70-100 cm. To install the wind board, take a board 50x100 mm.
13. To build a continuous sheathing, you will need sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. A gap of 2-3 mm is provided between them. The top of the lathing is equipped with waterproofing.
14. Before laying the covering, you need to cut a hole for the chimney pipe. An additional waterproofing layer is laid around it and along the roof overhangs.

How to build a roof for a house with a veranda with your own hands

With the help of a pitched roof it is very convenient to design various architectural combinations. The most common situation is when a house and an attached veranda or terrace are covered in this way.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a pitched roof on a house with a veranda:

• When making rafters, provision is made for the eaves overhangs.
• As they are laid, the distance between the racks of the frame structure is taken as the step distance.
• The length of the side boards coincides with the length of the wall, with the addition of two eaves overhangs.
• The extensions of the side cornices are also attached to the side elements.
• The ends of the outriggers are equipped with a wind board.
• To make the supporting posts of the veranda, 100x100 mm timber is used: they need to be made shorter by 50-70 cm than the posts of a high wall. As for the pitch of the supports, it is selected based on your own preferences.
• To connect the top of the racks, a 100x100 mm beam is used. In this case, screws or nails are used for fastening.
• Stuffing on a high wall in a horizontal position is carried out with a distance of 30-40 cm from the mating line.
• When cutting veranda rafters, their length is oriented along one eaves overhang.
• The finished rafters are mounted on top of nailed boards and trim. To do this, use corners and nails.
• A continuous sheathing is installed on the slopes, for which moisture-resistant plywood is used. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Laying suitable roofing material completes the description of the procedure on how to properly build a pitched roof on a house with a veranda.

Why are roof trusses needed?

According to the technical documentation, for laying single rafters of a pitched roof, the supporting walls must have different heights. However, there are often situations when the height of these walls is the same: in such cases, it is most convenient to use special construction trusses of wooden or metal type. For example, you can take the construction of a roof with one slope with trusses on a veranda or porch attached to a dacha.

We build a pitched roof in this case in this way:

1. When manufacturing the components of roof trusses, it is important to keep in mind that in this triangular structure, the short leg is used for fastening to the wall of the house. In this case, the hypotenuse of the structure acts as a cornice overhang. To make a long leg and hypotenuse, you will need a 25x45 mm board. The short leg is made from a 120x45 mm board.
2. To fix the truss elements, perforated metal plates and anchors are used.
3. To attach the short leg to the wall you will need dowels and screws. The long leg is fastened with nails to the harness.
4. The ends are equipped with drain boards.
5. A continuous plank sheathing is installed on top of the trusses. We should not forget about compensation gaps of 2-3 mm.
6. In the area where the pitched roof connects to the wall, a corner trim is installed.
7. When sheathing the ceiling, a little of the eaves overhang should be left free to allow fresh air to enter. It is advisable to decorate this opening with a mosquito net to prevent insects from entering the room.
8. After laying the roofing, the perimeter is equipped with a metal profile strip.

It is advisable to decorate the front end of the roof with a gutter, leading its ebb outside the building.