How to treat tomatoes with kefir. How to spray tomatoes after rain


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Rarely a gardener can boast that he is not familiar with late blight. The fungal disease initially appears on potato leaves, then the infection spreads to tomatoes.

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The first signs of the disease- brown spots appear on the leaves and stems of tomatoes, and in wet weather a faint white coating appears on the underside of the leaf. Subcutaneous brown blurry spots form on the fruits, which quickly increase in size and cover the entire fruit. The affected tomato first becomes hard, then softens. Moreover, the infection persists in tomato plant residues.

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What should you do if this scourge affects tomatoes?

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In rainy and cold summers, preventive measures are especially necessary: Every two weeks, tomatoes are sprayed with preparations containing copper.

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The first time - seedlings,

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the second - before planting it in open ground,

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the third time - two weeks after planting.

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If for some reason this was not done, use the experience of the most “advanced” amateur gardeners:

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At the first signs of late blight, the bushes are treated with a 10% solution of table salt. As a result, a protective film is formed on the fruits, preventing the penetration of the fungus, the causative agent of the disease.

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Fresh kefir will help prevent late blight for quite a long time, which is mixed in a bucket of water (1 liter of kefir per 5-7 liters of water). The resulting solution is sprayed on tomatoes two weeks after planting the seedlings in a permanent place, and then every week.

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Speaking about diseases of vegetable crops, first of all it should be said about powdery mildew of cucumbers, which is the scourge of this culture. The disease manifests itself in the form of a white powdery coating, usually on the upper side of the leaf.
At first, the plaque occurs in the form of separate spots, but over time they grow and merge, and then the plaque covers the entire leaf blade. Affected leaves dry out. The harmfulness of the disease increases during dry and hot weather, especially when plants are overcooled as a result of a sharp temperature change at night.

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Many vegetable crops (cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, peppers, etc.) are affected by false powdery mildew .

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Unlike the real one, the false one develops not outside, but inside the plant tissue. The disease manifests itself in the form of spots, rot, and deformation of shoots.

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On cucumbers, onions and garlic, the disease is caused by the fungus pores A, hence the name - transporosis, and on tomato - by late blight fungus ( late blight). Due to blight, cucumber leaves become covered with yellow-green spots, which over time turn brown, dry out and crumble. Gray-violet spots predominate on the underside of the leaves. Onion and garlic blight affects from the top of the leaves to the base. On pepper, the disease appears as pale green clearings. Affected leaves wither and dry out.

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Late blight of tomato appears on leaves and stems in the form of brown spots, which seem to be bordered by a mold-like coating. In dry weather, the leaves usually dry out quickly, and in wet weather they quickly rot. In this case, the fruits turn black, soften and become unsuitable for consumption.

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Tomatoes often suffer from diseases such as blackleg and Fusarium wilt.

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The main symptom of blackleg is darkening of the root collar. Its development is facilitated by sudden changes in temperature and increased soil moisture. Fusarium wilt is characterized by damage to the roots: a pinkish or white coating forms on them. Then the plants begin to turn yellow from below and then wither.

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How to fight these diseases?

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First of all, you should avoid re-growing crops in the same place for 3-4 years. Due to the fact that pathogens persist not only in the soil, but also in plant debris, they must be collected and destroyed in the fall.

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Against downy mildew, the seeds of cucumbers and tomatoes should be treated with potassium permanganate before sowing(10 g per 1 liter of water, treatment time - 20 minutes), then the seeds should be washed and dried. It is also necessary to regularly inspect the beds and immediately remove plants with signs of damage.

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Another effective measure against powdery mildew, late blight and other diseases is spraying cucumbers, tomatoes and onion sets with one of the following preparations: 1% Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride (40 g per 10 liters of water), Ridomil (50-60 g per 10 l of water), foundationol (10 g per 10 l of water), topsin (10 g per 10 l of water), topaz (2 g per 10 l of water). The last three drugs also work well against powdery mildew of cucumbers. When growing onions, spraying with chemicals is not recommended.

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Positive results against blackleg and fusarium wilt are achieved by strengthening plant resistance through good fertilizing. Feeding is considered the best from a weak solution of mullein, slurry, chicken manure, ash liquor.

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The latter is prepared as follows: two glasses of ash are steamed in 1 liter of boiling water, stirred, left for 6 hours, filtered, and water is added so that the volume of the solution reaches 10 liters.

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About the benefits of products for the gardener’s economic needs.

It turns out that in the grocery department of a regular store or supermarket there are quite a few useful products for controlling pests and plant diseases, preparing fertilizers and bio-infusions. Some gardeners have long and successfully used kefir, milk, whey, salt, soda, yeast, mustard powder and something else for agricultural purposes. Now let's find out why...

Not just for food... What products can be useful in the garden?

Salt in the garden

If you have ever tried to get rid of horseradish that grew in the wrong place, then you know how difficult it is: no matter how much you dig it up, the roots continue to live and grow. To defeat horseradish, you need to cut off its leaves and cover the cut area with salt.

Before buds open, fruit trees are sprayed with a strong saline solution to prevent fungal diseases.

Half a glass of salt is dissolved in a bucket of water and spilled once a season. onion for the prevention of powdery mildew and for the destruction of onion flies.

Beetroot loves to be fertilized with saline solution. It is fed twice: at the stage of 4-5 true leaves and a month before harvesting. The preparation of fertilizing is very simple: 100 grams of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Soda in the garden

It’s difficult to imagine a modern garden without baking soda. She seems to help anywhere and everywhere.

If you grow grapes at your summer cottage, then do not forget to spray the vines with a solution of soda - 75 grams per 10 liters of water - during the ripening period. This procedure protects grapes from gray rot and also increases the sugar content in the berries.

The same solution can be sprayed on all fruit trees to combat leaf-eating caterpillars.

Baking soda is one of the effective remedies against powdery mildew. A solution of a teaspoon of soda in a liter of water is used for preventive spraying of cucumbers. Gooseberries and currants are treated with a complex product: 1 tbsp. soda, 1 aspirin tablet, 1 tsp. dishwashing detergent or liquid soap, 1 tbsp. vegetable oil for 4.5 liters of water.

Water the cucumbers with a soda solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) to prevent premature yellowing of the leaves.

To repel caterpillars, many gardeners sprinkle cabbage leaves with baking soda.

In addition, soda is part of a complex infusion for soaking seeds before planting.

Mustard powder in the garden

Mustard is not favored by many garden pests, so stock up on mustard powder, fellow summer residents. Especially if you are against pesticides and both hands are for organic vegetables and fruits.

Firstly, mustard helps in the difficult fight against slugs. The powder is scattered between plants at the first sign of this obnoxious pest: on cabbage, peppers, hostas, etc.

Secondly, mustard powder is one of the components of the infusion against cabbage aphids.

Thirdly, mustard infusion works well against moths, sawflies, bedbugs, thrips, aphids, codling moths and other leaf-eating caterpillars. To prepare it, 100 grams of mustard powder are poured with 10 liters of water and left for two days. Then filter, dilute with water 50:50 and add 40 grams of soap to each bucket for better adhesion. It is recommended to spray apple trees with this infusion 15-20 days after flowering, and berry bushes at the beginning of summer.

Kefir or whey in the garden
Kefir and others dairy products are used, as a rule, for the purpose of prevention and control of pathogenic fungal diseases. Lactic acid bacteria and fungi suppress competitors, but do not harm the plants themselves.

Cucumber leaves are sprayed with kefir to stop their yellowing. To do this, two liters of kefir are diluted in a bucket of water.

Using kefir you can get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries.

Among the components of the recipe self-cooking Kefir has also been noticed as an EM infusion.

To prevent late blight, you can spray tomato seedlings with the following solution: half a liter of kefir, 1 glass of Pepsi or Coca-Cola per 10 liters of water. And from the first days of July, adult tomatoes are sprayed with a solution of kefir mixed with water.

A liter of kefir diluted in a bucket of water is also an excellent feed for both tomato seedlings and adult plants.

In all of the above recipes, kefir can be replaced with whey.

Yeast in the garden

Yeast is an excellent growth stimulator for plants. They themselves are rich nutrients, they improve soil microflora, they suppress the development of many pathogens - in general, they are good.

The most popular way to use yeast in the garden is as a top dressing. Yeast feeding will appeal to all crops. Its recipe is as follows: a kilogram of pressed yeast is diluted in five liters warm water, then immediately before use the solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. You can also prepare yeast dressing from dry yeast. To do this, dissolve 10 grams of yeast and a couple of tablespoons of sugar in 10 liters of water. This “dough” is kept for 2 hours, and then diluted with water 1:5.

For nightshades, it is also recommended to prepare a special fertilizer with sugar. For three liters of water, take 100 grams of yeast and half a glass of sugar, all this ferments for a week, and then dilutes it with water: 1 glass of “mash” per bucket. Feed tomatoes, peppers, eggplants or potatoes by pouring a liter of solution under each bush.

It is also useful to water seedlings with yeast fertilizer. It will grow by leaps and bounds, will not stretch out, and will easily take root in new soil when picked.

If you water the strawberries with yeast diluted in water (100 grams per 10 liters) before flowering, the berry will not develop gray rot. Tomatoes are sprayed with the same solution when the first signs of late blight appear or to prevent it.

Yeast is used in the preparation of EM preparations, “nutritive brews” and other bio-infusions useful for the garden.

What should you always remember when using yeast in the garden?

First. Like all microorganisms (and yeast are fungi, as we were taught at school), yeast will not work actively during the cold season. Therefore, it is better to do all fertilizing in the spring, when the soil has already warmed up.

Second. Yeast absorbs potassium during its vital activity, so do not forget to compensate for the “losses” by adding ash.

As a rule, plants are fed with yeast a maximum of three times per season. No longer required.

Milk in the garden
Downy mildew on cucumbers can be eliminated by spraying the leaves with a solution of nine liters of water, a liter of skim milk and 10-12 drops of iodine.

A mixture of 20 grams of laundry soap, a liter of milk and 30 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water will help prevent premature yellowing of cucumber leaves.

And sour milk or curdled milk will perfectly replace kefir or whey in previous recipes.

Coca-Cola or Pepsi in the garden

As mentioned above, Coca-Cola or Pepsi together with kefir is used to spray tomato seedlings.

Slugs crawl onto Coca-Cola poured into shallow containers dug into the ground next to plants as if they were bait.

And some gardeners claim that spraying with cola rids plants of aphid infestations.

We hope that the helper products from the grocery store, hardware store and pharmacy will serve you well in the garden and eliminate the need to use “poison” where you can do without it.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Every summer, all gardeners begin to grow their favorite vegetables and fruits on their plots, and in addition to everyday and usual worries, they have additional troubles to protect their crops from different types diseases. Moreover, even the hottest summer is often replaced by temperature changes and, as a result, is marked by heavy torrential rains, which have an extremely negative impact on the health of some plants.

One of the most annoying and common on summer cottages a disease that primarily attacks tomatoes is (late blight). And today we will tell you in detail how to treat late blight in open ground or what folk remedies are best to use.

What kind of disease is this?

Late blight is a serious disease garden plants, the causative agent of which is the fungus Phytophthora infestans. Most often, people suffer from this fungus, but there have been cases of infection of crops such as and even. It is not difficult to trace alarming symptoms on your vegetables: it is enough to identify gradually growing spots of an ugly dirty-brown hue on tomato tops, which increase many times faster during wet weather.

Such “blots” begin to appear on tomato leaves already on the 3rd day after infection, and then, depending on weather conditions, contribute to the complete death of the shoots. Further, on the stems you will notice a gradually appearing grayish coating, and on the fruits - wet and depressed black spots, which will also gradually spread over the rest of the surface of the plant.

No one is immune from late blight in their garden plots, but some causes and conditions still contribute to the appearance of this disease:

  • cold weather and frequent rains;
  • failure to comply with necessary temperature regime(in greenhouses) for ;
  • Covering tomatoes with film from the cold when temperatures fluctuate (day and night) promotes the formation of condensation, which, in turn, provokes the development of late blight.

Did you know? There is not a single continent in the world that is free from the late blight genus 70 its species can calmly and calmly destroy all the cultivated plants known to us.

Folk remedies

Today, the domestic market offers a wide range of different chemicals, which are able to cope with the annoying late blight for the first time and delay the inevitable death of the plant for a long time, since it is no longer possible to completely defeat the emerging disease.

But as practice has shown, late blight can be completely avoided - to do this, you just need to take effective medications on time. preventive measures, consisting of old, time-tested folk methods.
And to find out exactly what means will help in the fight against late blight on tomatoes in open areas or, refer to the following points.

Garlic and manganese

The well-known universal solution of potassium permanganate with has long been an excellent preventive remedy in the fight against fungal scourge. The technology for its preparation is very simple, and its effective disinfecting properties are amazing in their effectiveness. To prepare the solution, you need to proceed in stages:

  1. 100 grams of garlic are crushed in a meat grinder, all its parts at once: leaves, bulbs and arrows.
  2. The garlic mixture is poured into a glass of clean water and left for 24 hours at room temperature, in a dry and cool place.
  3. Before use, the infused concentrate is diluted with water (10 liters).
  4. Tomatoes should be sprayed every 2 weeks in calm and dry weather.
The fruits and leaves on the bush are separately treated with a solution of manganese prepared in the following proportions: 3 grams of powder per 10 liters of water.

Important!If there are risks of fruit rotting from late blight before full ripening, then it is better to pick them and keep them in water (temperature35 °C ) with potassium permanganate for about half an hour, then dry and let them ripen in a dry, open place, for example.

If you have chosen straw infusion as a preventive weapon against late blight, it is important to remember that main ingredient must be rotten (hay or straw). The straw is poured with ten liters of water, a handful of urea is added to the resulting mixture, and then the whole thing is infused for three days.
Then the finished tincture is thoroughly filtered and then the tomatoes are sprayed every two weeks.

Milk serum

Whey has long been known to experienced summer residents for its undeniable effectiveness in the war against late blight fungus: it forms a thin, almost imperceptible film on tomato leaves, which does not allow harmful microorganisms to seep into vegetable tissues and take root there.

Fungal infections of various types always try to “bypass” plants treated with whey, since the lactic bacteria and microflora contained in it have a detrimental effect on them. But the irrigation procedure must be repeated, without forgetting, since the serum itself is short-lived and very quickly loses its antimicrobial power. Some sources say that the spraying scheme once every 10 days is the most effective, but, based on the experience of many agronomists and gardeners, we concluded that the manipulation should be carried out as often as possible, even every day. But in order to use the serum for its intended purpose, it must first be turned into a working solution - for this it is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. In this way, you can safely treat tomatoes against the ill-fated late blight both in a greenhouse and in an open area.

Milk and iodine

It's no surprise that many people professional growers tomatoes , considered the best prevention anti-phytophthora treatment plants with a solution of milk and iodine, because its disinfectant properties not only kill pathogenic bacteria, but also contribute to the rapid and high-quality process of ripening of tomato fruits.
To prepare such a solution, you only need half a glass of low-fat milk, clean water and a couple of drops of iodine (you shouldn’t add more, it can burn the leaves). Milk and iodine are added to 1 liter of water, then the prepared mixture must be thoroughly sprayed on all unprotected areas.

If you find signs of late blight on ripening tomatoes, then the best option will be to allow tomato fruits that have not yet become diseased to ripen and be harvested faster.

For this purpose, without using any chemicals, a regular saline solution is well suited: it allows the stems to get rid of the affected leaves as quickly as possible, thereby giving the bush additional time and effort to accelerate the ripening of the fruits, and also completely covers the entire plant with a salt film, which significantly slows down the development of fungal disease. To prepare it, only 100 g of salt per 1 liter of water is used.
It is also important to remember that only diseased areas with plants can be irrigated with saline solution, because it can cause harm to other garden crops.

Kefir

Regular kefir will help keep intrusive fungi at bay for quite a long time. For thorough processing, you initially need to prepare a working solution, which consists of 1 liter of kefir and 5 liters of water. Tomatoes must be sprayed with this product only 14 days after planting in a permanent area, and then the manipulation is carried out every week.

Ash solution

To destroy late blight spores that are just beginning to germinate on tomato soil, a solution containing ash is often used, which has strong disinfecting properties and destroys, in addition to fungi, other infections that affect plants. This tincture is prepared quickly and simply: 250 ml of ash is poured into a liter of water, boiled over fire for 15 minutes. The resulting mixture is carefully filtered, and then another 10 liters of water are added to it.

Now you should take care of the solution for spraying the bushes in order to consolidate the result of disinfection: 6 liters of ash are thoroughly mixed with ten liters of water, and then the resulting mixture is left in a dark place for at least three days.
Spraying tomato seedlings must be carried out 3 times, the first time when it takes root, the second time before flowering begins, and the third time when the first ovaries appear.

Tinder sprays

Polypore sprays will be very useful for tomato bushes that have not yet suffered from late blight. Paradoxically, it just so happens that the tinder fungus can act as a serious obstacle to the development of other harmful fungi, especially late blight.

Plantings should be irrigated at the time of fruit set, every 10 days early in the morning, preferably in calm and windless weather. The recipe for preparing tinder solution is as follows: dried tinder fungus (100 g) is crushed in a meat grinder and poured with boiling water, after complete cooling the mixture is filtered, and the solution immediately becomes suitable for use.

Copper

German scientists came up with an interesting method of combating late blight: it involves wrapping the root system of seedlings with thin copper wire. Our agronomists adapted this method in their own way - they came up with the idea of ​​piercing the stem of a bush with such a wire. The method looks strange, but is amazingly effective: thanks to microdoses of copper, the plant’s chlorophyll is stabilized and proper oxidative processes are restored.
But it is important to remember that such manipulation can only be carried out on strong tomato stems.

The process of introducing copper is carried out in stages:

  1. A thin copper wire is sanded or calcined, then cut into small pieces of 3 cm.
  2. The puncture of the stem must be done not near the soil itself, but at a distance of about 10 cm.
  3. The wire is carefully inserted into the stem, its ends are bent down.
  4. It is strictly forbidden to wrap the stem.
The method will definitely work if you do everything correctly and slowly.

Did you know?The first person who discovered that late blight was afraid of copper was one unknown meticulous journalist (unfortunately, his name was not even preserved in history). But it was thanks to his observation that people saw that the nasty fungus did not appear near copper smelters, and then the Germans patentedNowknown to us saving method with wire.

To combat late blight initial stage The most common baker's yeast will work perfectly. For effective spraying, only 100 grams of the product is enough, which should be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Then the solution must be used for its intended purpose.

Prevention

Other preliminary prevention, which is carried out using similar folk remedies, is also of considerable importance in the fight against late blight on tomatoes, in the greenhouse and in the open ground. If you try to follow all these methods, you can forget about late blight at least for a while. For a good result you need to do the following:

  1. It is advisable to begin prevention already at the first stages of planting: for this you need to properly process the vegetable seeds. Usually the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 or 30 minutes.
  2. Select early varieties that are less sensitive to the fungus.
  3. During the process of planting seedlings, the holes prepared for tomatoes should be generously treated with copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
  4. Provide a good distance between plantings (at least 30 cm).
  5. When the fruits of the first cluster appear on the bushes, it is necessary to remove the lower leaves.
  6. Watch for the appearance of flowers and brushes on the tops of the bushes - it is advisable to pick them off in time.
Based on the above information, we can draw the following conclusion: if timely prevention is carried out with the help of iodine, garlic, potassium permanganate and other recommended remedies against late blight, it will become an almost one hundred percent guarantee of protecting the future harvest from complete destruction, and your country tomatoes will fully ripen in properly treated greenhouses and on open soils.

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Imagine - yes!

In the middle of summer, when the heat suddenly gives way to rain and moisture, all fungal diseases become active, among which the most dangerous is late blight. This infection can completely destroy the tomato crop, harm potatoes, and other nightshade crops. Therefore, you have to keep copper oxychloride and the necessary components for Bordeaux mixture on hand. But, accumulating in the soil, copper ends up in fruits, and these fruits end up on our table. We are looking for a replacement.

Experienced gardeners recommend regularly watering seedlingsweak milk solution. To do this, buy the cheapest milk and dilute 1 liter in 10 liters of water. Water the seedlings with this water. The treat is repeated every two weeks. They do this not so much for the sake of feeding the seedlings, but to prevent late blight.

The disinfectant properties of iodine tincture have long been known. A If you add milk to iodine, it means late blight! Prepare a solution: 10 liters of water, liter of milk, 20 drops of iodine. Spray the plants with this solution. By the way, using a mixture of milk, iodine and water not only protects plants from late blight, but also accelerates their maturation!

To increase the effectiveness of iodine-milk treatment, it should be alternated with spraying garlic tincture. The garlic “preparation” is prepared as follows: chop 100 grams of peeled garlic cloves and leave in water for a day, bring the volume to 10 liters, add a gram of potassium permanganate. This is how the inhabitants of the kitchen - milk and garlic - save their vegetable brothers!

By the way, you can water the seedlings with milk both before and after planting in the ground. However, not everyone can afford to buy milk regularly. Simple spraying with Ridomil is half the price and much more effective. In any case, in confined apartment conditions it is better to water the seedlings with milk, since the use of fungicides there is undesirable.

Two weeks after planting the seedlings in the ground, you can begin preventive spraying against late blight with Ridomil, Acrobat, Cabrio-top, etc.

If chemicals are strictly prohibited in your area, then as a preventive measure against late blight, you can also spray your plants with a milk solution, alternating with mullein solution. It is diluted in a ratio of 1:5.

Gardeners have long noticed that plants treated with mullein get sick less often, are less damaged by pests and grow well, since such treatment is also a top dressing.

By the way, you can also protect currants and cucumbers from powdery mildew by spraying them with mullein solution. Very positive effect on seedlings
infusion of ash.

Rain is a benefit for the garden, providing natural moisture and timely watering. But most of both beginners and experienced gardeners are wondering what to spray tomato bushes with after rain. At improper care Tomato leaves curl, roots rot, fruits become covered with dark spots, and the garden bed disappears. In this article you will get acquainted with the signs and causes of late blight disease, and you will also learn how to spray tomatoes if the leaves curl, and what preparations to use.

Is it necessary to spray tomatoes after prolonged rain?

During periods of heavy rainfall, spores of the late blight fungus develop, affecting tomato bushes, and in addition, high humidity provokes the development of infection. When the disease occurs, gray-brown spots appear on the leaves, stems and even fruits. Late blight spreads very quickly, and the affected bushes die within 1-2 weeks. Young seedlings are extremely susceptible to disease, so it is very important to spray the bushes in a timely manner to prevent the appearance and proliferation of the late blight fungus. The greenhouse, so beloved by gardeners, does not save the plant from infection.

Signs of a dangerous tomato disease - late blight

The fungal disease affects the entire bush, and the first signs of its appearance are dry grayish spots that darken over time. Very soon a whitish coating forms on the back of the leaves, the stem of the bush darkens, and the fruits begin to rot. In the later stages of the disease, the leaves curl and turn black. In advanced cases, rot forms on the bushes. It is strictly forbidden to eat such fruits or use them for seeds.

The best way to spray tomatoes after rain against late blight and pests

Fighting the disease vegetable crop start with treating seeds, equipment, soil, where infection spores are theoretically preserved. Pay attention to agricultural technology: choose high-quality planting material, change the planting location annually. To combat late blight and pests, use chemicals (saltpeter, foundationazole) and folk remedies(ash, brilliant green, soda), try to alternate them. Here are a few recipes that successfully cope with tomato diseases:

  • Treatment of planting material with growth stimulator "Ivin". This drug is an analogue of natural phytohormones, which helps reduce the level of disease in vegetable crops, increase yield, and reduce nitrate content. Scheme for seed treatment: 1 ml (1 ampoule of 1 ml) per 200 ml of working solution per 100 g of seeds.
  • To strengthen the root system, use the growth regulator "Regoplant". The composite preparation has bioprotective properties, enriches the bushes with vitamins and microelements, increases the plant’s resistance to diseases and pests ( Colorado beetle, aphid). It is used for spraying vegetables during the growing season. To treat crops, use 50 ml per 1 ha.
  • During fruit set, spray tomatoes with Stimpo. This multifunctional broad-spectrum drug has a bioprotective effect. “Stimpo” reveals the potential of the variety and activates the plant’s immunity. To spray tomato crops, use 20 ml of solution per 1 ha.
  • During the growing season, for foliar feeding, use granular fertilizer “Urea” (urea). The drug saturates with nitrogen, normalizes plant growth, and increases the resistance of the vegetable crop to pests. To treat the planting, dilute 20-30 g of granules per 10 liters of water at the desired temperature (room temperature).

Spraying with serum

To combat late blight, experienced gardeners advise using folk tricks, one of them is whey. It contains mineral salts that strengthen the immunity of tomato bushes. For spraying, dilute the serum with water in equal proportions, treat the tomatoes with the resulting mixture daily from the first days of July for 14 days.

How to treat fruits with kefir

According to experienced gardeners, effective method combating late blight – dairy products. To process tomatoes, take 1 liter of peroxided kefir (yogurt will do) and dilute it in 20 liters of water. Vegetable bushes are treated with this mixture immediately after planting and weekly until harvest. Mineral salts and lactic acid contained in kefir will strengthen the plant’s immunity.

Folk remedy - milk with iodine

Experienced gardeners who prefer to do without chemicals in growing vegetables recommend using simple and affordable way spraying the plant, which destroys microbes, stimulates fruit ripening. To prepare a folk remedy, add 1 liter of skim milk and 20 drops of iodine to a bucket of water. Tomatoes should be sprayed against pests 2 times a month.

Yeast

To prevent late blight and treat it, use the following simple method: dilute 100 g of fresh yeast in 10 liters of warm water. Tomatoes are treated with this solution after rain or at the first signs of late blight. To strengthen the immunity of tomatoes and fight pests, prepare a highly nutritious fertilizer. To do this, in 10 liters of water, mix 10 g of dry yeast, 0.5 liters of chicken manure extract, 0.5 liters of wood ash, 5 tbsp. l. Sahara. To treat vegetable crops, dilute the nutritional fertilizer with water in a ratio of 1:10.

Treatment with Bordeaux mixture - copper sulfate solution

Tomatoes are demanding to care for. An effective way to prevent their diseases is to treat vegetables with Bordeaux mixture. In gardening, copper sulfate is used to disinfect bushes and replenish copper deficiency in the soil. To prevent fungal diseases of tomatoes, dilute 100 g of the drug in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to treat tomatoes with copper sulfate once in early spring before budding.

"Trichopolus"

To treat late blight in vegetables, experienced gardeners use antimicrobial drugs, and the most effective of them is Trichopolum. This drug is an antiprotozoal medication, so use it with caution. "Trichopol" inhibits the development of fungal organisms. To treat a tomato, dissolve 1 tablet from the blister in 10 liters of water. Treat the affected planting with the resulting mixture until the late blight completely disappears.

Drug "Bud"

For good flowering and fruit formation of tomatoes, use natural stimulants. The drug “Bud” increases yield by up to 40%, improves the taste and nutritional quality of fruits, increases the plant’s resistance to weather changes and increases the ecological purity of the crop. To process tomatoes, mix 10 liters of water and 15 g of the “Bud” preparation. This mixture is used once at the beginning of flowering.

Boric acid

To combat late blight, gardeners use an antiseptic solution to treat bushes. Boric acid has disinfecting properties. To prepare an antiseptic mixture in 10 l hot water dilute 10 g of the drug. Spray the tomatoes with the cooled mixture during the period of active flowering. Apply an antiseptic solution to the bushes with a fine spray on the stems and leaves.

Garlic with potassium permanganate

To ensure the prevention of late blight, experts recommend the use of fungicides. To prepare the infusion, take 100 g of garlic (all parts of the plant are suitable: bulb, arrows, leaves), grind through a meat grinder or blender, pour in 1 tbsp. hot water, let it brew for a day. Strain the finished mixture through cheesecloth, dilute it with 10 liters of water, add 10 g of potassium permanganate. Treat the bushes with this solution once every 2 weeks.

Ash with water

To prevent late blight, use an immunostimulating solution to treat tomatoes. Wood ash contains useful chemical microelements that strengthen the immunity of plants and stimulate their growth. To prepare the mixture, add 200 g of product to 10 liters of water and let it brew for 2-3 days. Treat the soil with the prepared mixture and spray the tomatoes.

Video

The fight against diseases and pests of vegetable crops begins with prevention. In order to protect bushes and crops from late blight, use modern chemicals and time-tested folk remedies. If you follow the rules of agricultural technology, you will reap a bountiful harvest of tomatoes. Timely protection of the site from pests is the key to successful gardening. From the video below you will learn what time of day is best to spray tomatoes and how to properly process the plant.