How to make a hotplate from a beer can. Homemade alcohol lamp from aluminum cans
From the site www.site: This article was kindly provided to our website by the author - nilsman.livejournal.com. The article describes in an accessible form a burner based on alcohol or other liquid fuel. The main advantage of this burner is the speed of manufacturing the product and the extreme availability of materials used in the manufacture of this item, the small weight and dimensions of the burner and, most importantly, efficiency. The author of these lines made this alcohol burner in 15 minutes and easily boiled water for a mug of tea in just 3-5 minutes.
They say you can buy fondue pots or ready-made tourist alcohol lamps from Tatonka, but why spend money if you can do everything yourself? Moreover, the homemade version, judging by the reviews on specialized forums like the Hansa, works better and is generally superior to the Swede in many respects.
For production you will need:
- Aluminum can 0.33l – 2 pcs
- Cotton wool - medium sized clump
- Sandpaper 200 grit or finer
- Cutter or marker for marking
- A very smart book of sufficient thickness
- Button or thin awl
- Scissors
Let's get started.
First you need to get rid of the paint on the cans. This step is not at all necessary because it will eventually burn out anyway, and has a greater impact on appearance finished product. To do this, you need to rub the FULL jar with sandpaper along the walls in the bottom area. The paint will peel off, exposing the brushed aluminum. Aesthetes can try to wash off the paint with a solvent (646 easily washed off the bottling date from the bottom) - you should get a shiny mirror surface.
Now is the time to pour the contents of the jar into the toilet and start marking. The method of marking a cut is not new and was picked up by smart-ass Americans (it would seem that people with money could go and buy something ready-made - but no, they do it themselves), but it has been slightly modified:
1. Measure the desired height. In the pendostan recipe we looked at - 1 (one) canonical inch. We fix the blade or marker on a suitable stand, in this case, in a book.
2. Draw a cutting line by rotating the can pressed to the blade. This is where there was a departure from the canon, because in the “Pendostan” (American - website note) version the blade should cut off the bottom, but in ours it only scratches. For this reason, you don’t have to fiddle with the blade and apply markings with a marker.
3. Cut off the bottom along the marking line. The walls have an uneven thickness, but even in the thickest places they can be easily cut with ordinary stationery scissors. We sand the edges of the resulting part to avoid cuts.
During the manufacturing process, the two bottoms obtained in this way will need to be inserted into one another. It is clear and understandable that having the same diameter, they will hinder this in every possible way and may become wrinkled, therefore, immediately after making the first bottom, it should be flared with a second can that has not yet been touched. The full jar must be forcefully pushed into the cut bottom, without, however, allowing the walls to rupture or deform.
We take the awl out of the butt and pierce the narrow (not flared) bottom in the center, and then in four places nearby. The configuration and number of holes are to your taste.
We put cotton...
And we insert the bottoms into each other as deeply as possible. The walls of the outer bottom will rise slightly above the inner one - to seal the structure and to avoid cutting yourself, cover them with a wooden block or knife.
Stick the nozzles on the bottom cone with all your heart. I was enough for sixteen, i.e. somewhere every centimeter.
The alcohol lamp is ready!
However, your adventures are just beginning, because purchasing alcohol (yes, a spirit lamp runs on alcohol) in this country seems to be a far from trivial task. In short, in Russia you can buy it either with a prescription at a pharmacy or at a local distillery. Therefore, we will have to farm collectively and here fulfill the plan of our saint Dmitry Anatolyevich and go to alternative sources energy.
Having scoured the Internet, it was found that there is still a point in going to the pharmacy - there you can get hold of an alcohol tincture of something. Kelp, for example, or licorice root, or leuzea, or pepper. The better, you can check with local alcoholics.
Option number two is windshield washer fluid from a car store. The notorious "Maximka" and others like it are blue. But personally, I’m toad stifled to give two and a half hundred, even for five liters.
Third, liquids that are not alcoholic at all. In principle, you can pour gasoline into an alcohol lamp of this type, but it’s still not worth the risk - the fumes from it, in a closed space, and under pressure... Kerosene is no problem, but the stench will be incredible. I heard about the experience of using DT - it seems to be successful. Any isopropyl and other methyl alcohols can be used, but you need to remember that these are all strong poisons and cooking with such an alcohol lamp is dangerous. Moreover, in the same ShAK the fuel is stored in a bottle in a pot, which can result in global pizdets if it spills.
The author, represented by me, tried what was at hand, namely 646 solvent and the recommended acetone. 646 can be immediately discarded - it stinks and smokes very strongly. Acetone burns odorless, but with a slight soot (they promised that it would not smoke at all) and, in principle, is suitable for use in an acetone alcohol lamp, but you will have to look for a suitable bottle because acetone does not seem to be friendly with plastics.
For dessert - self-immolation of acetone in an alcohol lamp:
Recipe: pour twenty cubes into the spirit lamp through the central holes and two or three cubes AROUND the spirit lamp or onto it. We set fire to the acetone from the outside and after a couple of seconds the acetone in the alcohol lamp begins to boil, intensive steam formation begins and the alcohol lamp enters operating mode. When the acetone burns out from the outside, the alcohol lamp will heat itself and the boiling process will not be interrupted. Place the pot on top and cook. All.
The cost of a fake craft is extremely low (in the worst case, fifty dollars, on average, it’s free), the labor intensity of the operations is somewhere at the level of preschool training (and it’s harder to cut cardboard with scissors than a can), and it takes about fifteen minutes. In general, you can make such a spirit lamp simply out of interest, without pursuing any utilitarian goals. At the same time, the product is also lighter, smaller and more convenient than factory samples, and this is a big plus.
Alas, the idea of making a burner from a can of cola (beer or other drink) is not mine, but still I decided to make a more detailed article on how to make a burner with your own hands.
To make a mini burner you will need:
Two (you can use any can: beer, juice, kvass, basically any);
- Pliers;
- Scissors;
- Glue;
- Coin;
- Alcohol.
Let's start implementing the idea!
First of all, you need to rinse the jars (updated).
Do the same with the second jar.
We make the burner directly.
Next, after we already have two parts, we need to connect the two parts as shown in the image. After this, you need to glue the two parts together using super glue, or better yet cold welding. Next, you need to clean the can of paint (so that it does not catch fire during combustion).
Making holes in a circle
Now all that remains is to make holes in the jar, as shown in the picture (in a circle and in the middle). The holes in the middle are needed to pour fuel through them. We place the coin in the middle of the jar so that the flame does not escape through these holes.
All is ready! You can try out a homemade burner in practice
Now you just need to pour alcohol into the jar and set it on fire.
The burner is ready for use
You can make it very quickly from scrap materials and use it on a hike, in nature or at the dacha to heat up food;)
From a couple of empty tin cans you can assemble a lightweight and functional alcohol burner with your own hands.
Knowing how to make an alcohol burner can help you in emergency situations, long expeditions, or when you want to impress your friends.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
We will need:
- 2 aluminum cans
- wooden boards (one about 2 cm thick and several thinner ones)
- stationery knife
- a pair of pushpins
- screwdriver
- pliers, preferably with thin tips
- coin
- lighter fluid (for example methanol, isopropyl alcohol did not work very well)
Step 2: Assembling the Can Cutter
First we need to assemble a can cutter that will allow you to cut them in a straight line. In a pinch, you can just use scissors, a knife, etc., but it will be much better if you get a nice clean cut.
The saw is a regular blade from a stationery knife, secured to the board using buttons. We will need two boards of different thicknesses: approximately 2 cm for the upper part, and approximately 3 cm for the lower part - the body of the burner.
Be careful when cutting and with the cut can - the metal may be very sharp.
Step 3: Cutting the Cans
In this step we will cut two beer cans, creating burner parts. As mentioned above, the top part will be approximately 2 cm high and the bottom part will be 3 cm high.
Use a saw or other tools to cut off the bottom of the cans. Use your fingers to gently twist top part jars to separate it at the point where the blade enters it. After separating the cans into pieces, smooth the sharp edges with decoction, a file or sandpaper.
Step 4: Prepare the Burner
The smaller tin will be the burner. Using a pin, make 6 small holes around the perimeter of its base. Uniform distribution of holes will give the product a neat appearance and slightly improve its characteristics, but in general it has only an aesthetic value. It is important that the holes are on the sides as this will help heat the outer container which then heats the fuel.
Then make one center hole, make a pilot hole with a pin and widen it with a screwdriver or other available tool. The hole should be about 0.5 cm in diameter, but if you get a wider hole, that's okay.
Next, make 6 large holes along the rim of the jar, each under a small hole. You can use a screwdriver for this, but do not make the holes too large. It is very important not to damage the edge of the can, as it will connect to the second part of the can.
Fold the edge of the can inward at twelve evenly spaced points, one fold for each hole and one between each hole. As a result, we will get a nice relief.
Step 5: Assemble the Burner
Now we are ready to assemble both parts of the burner together. Insert the smaller part into the larger one, bottom up. It is very important that the parts fit together evenly.
Step 6: Refuel and light the burner
In order for the burner to work, you need to fill it with fuel. The idea is that the fuel heats up, some of it evaporates and then ignites.
First, place a coin on top of the center hole. Next, pour the fuel into the small cup created after you have closed the center hole (this cup is used as a measuring part). Remove the coin so that the fuel flows down to the bottom. Leaving a small amount of fuel on the outer fin will ignite it to “start” the unit.
The outer part will begin to heat up from the fire, this will lead to the fact that the fuel inside will begin to evaporate.
After ignition, the side nozzles will also light up. The coin will act as a pressure valve and periodically the burner will flip the coin slightly to release any excess.
At this point, check for leaks between the nozzles - if the two parts of the device are not sealed properly, you may have to adjust the poorly sealed parts.
If you need to put out the burner, quickly remove the coin from the hole (using a knife, stick or something else) and the fire will go out.
If you are using the burner in the snow, you can use another can as an additional bottom to insulate the burner from below.
Surely many have already seen an alcohol burner made from an aluminum can. One author suggested how it could be improved to make it safer and more convenient. Now the burner will never explode when heated, as it has a special safety valve. In addition, the flame became more beautiful and even, which increased the efficiency of the burner. As a result, the burner now looks like a regular kitchen burner.
Materials and tools for assembly:
- an aluminum can for beer and other drinks (the author uses narrow cans from Mio, as he makes a small Primus stove);
- cotton pads, cotton cloth or sponge;
- a jar of larger diameter (used for olives);
- coin;
- raw food and a frying pan (you can fry an egg to check).
To work you will need the following tools: scissors, a lighter, a needle with an awl (a sharp nail will do instead of an awl), pliers, a bolt with nuts or a self-tapping screw.
Let's start assembling the alcohol burner:
Step one. Cut out the first burner element
The first element of the burner needs to be cut out of the can; to do this, you need to move 17 mm away from the bottom. After this, a circular line is drawn with a marker. To keep the line even, the marker can be fixed at the desired height, and then rotate the can.
Now this part needs to be carefully cut out along the drawn line. A total of two such spare parts are needed, one should be 17 mm high, and the second 25 mm.
Next, you need to make holes in the cut bottom, maintaining a distance of 4-5 mm between them. It is important that the distances in diameter are approximately the same. For these purposes, you can use an awl or a nail. It is most convenient to punch holes on a board.
In the end, everything should be as seen in the photo. If you make larger holes, the flame will be higher.
You also need to make one large hole in the center of the bottom. It should be smaller in size than a coin.
Step two. Connecting two elements together
You need to put cotton fabric in the bottom, which is 25 mm. This could be cotton wool or cotton pads. Next, the bottom with holes needs to be put on top of the bottom with cotton wool. They need to be connected so that there is no distortion. The edges can be filled with a piece from the same jar.
Step three. Burner testing
Through the large hole you need to pour alcohol or other liquid fuel, such as gasoline, into the burner. Next, the hole is closed at the top with a coin. The coin is needed to prevent the burner from exploding under excess pressure. If there is excess pressure in the burner, the coin will simply move and excess gases will escape from the burner without bursting it.
To start, you need to heat the bottom of the burner with a lighter or matches, and then ignite the vapors that will come out of it. Well, then the burner will heat itself and burn as long as there is fuel in it.
Step four. Making a cover for extinguishing the burner
In addition to extinguishing the burner, the cap also prevents fuel from evaporating from the burner when it is not burning. To make the lid, you will need another jar, the bottom of which needs to be cut off.
You then need to drill a small hole in the center of the bottom and screw in a self-tapping screw.
Step five. How to make a coaster
To turn the burner into a primus, you need to make a stand for dishes. For these purposes, you will need a jar with a slightly larger diameter. To determine the height of the stand, you first need to make a mark on the can at the height of the burner. Next, you need to double this length and add the desired centimeters at which the cookware will be located from the burner.
Then the jar needs to be divided into 12 parts with a marker, the excess is cut off along the circular line. Each line must be cut to the bottom ring. Then the resulting strips are cut off one at a time, resulting in a design like the one in the photo.
You need to cut a hole in the stand; it is needed to heat the burner when starting. The strips need to be bent so that they rest against the bottom, thereby increasing the rigidity of the stand. That's all, then the burner is inserted into the stand and you can start cooking.
Using ordinary empty aluminum cans of beer, juice, cocoa and other drinks, you can make an alcohol burner with your own hands. Moreover, it will be very compact, light, and therefore you can take it with you on any hike, trip, or just at the dacha to quickly cook something or make yourself tea.
To make an alcohol burner with your own hands, first of all, we will need:
— Two aluminum cans of beer, Coca-Cola (or other drinks);
— Stationery knife, scalpel or scissors;
- Sandpaper;
- Super glue;
- Coin.
We wash the cans, dry them, then use sandpaper to remove paint from the bottom of the cans. This is necessary so that when the finished alcohol burner burns, the can does not smoke, as the paint will burn out.
There are 2 options: the first is to take a scalpel or a stationery knife, clamp it in a vice at the required height (this is necessary so that the cut is at the same level on all sides of the can) and begin to turn the can around without lifting its bottom from the table, thus the can will be cut smoothly and beautifully.
The second option is to place a marker on something, the same level as half the height of our future alcohol burner should be, for example, on a book or cork, and again turn the jar around without lifting it from the table and thus draw a line along which we will cut off the bottom of the aluminum banks. Next, take a scalpel, a utility knife or scissors and cut off the bottom. We clean the edges with sandpaper to get rid of burrs.
Now we have two identical aluminum cups to create a beer can burner, they need to be inserted into each other. To make this easier, you need to stretch one such cup; this can be done by placing it on another similar aluminum can, preferably a full, closed one. After this, it will stretch a lot, this will be enough for the second cup to be inserted inside.
But before combining the halves, you need to put cotton wool or 2-3 layers of absorbent sponge cellulose napkin on the bottom of the half that will be the bottom. So that the alcohol does not spill out of our alcohol burner and does not evaporate so quickly. Next, we insert the other half inside and for greater strength of the connection, you can apply superglue along the edges.
Using an awl, we make 5 holes in the center of the future burner; if the awl is thick, then even two will be enough; through these holes we will pour alcohol. It will also act as an overpressure valve and prevent damage to the burner. Next, you need to make holes along the edges - 20 of them at equal distances, through which ignited alcohol vapor will escape. It will be better if you mark out the placement of these holes in advance. It will also be better if you make the holes not with an awl, but with a Dremel or a drill with a thin drill of about 1 mm. Then the holes will turn out more beautiful and not concave inward as is the case with an awl.
Mini alcohol burner made from an aluminum can is ready:
Using an alcohol burner
Pour 30 ml of alcohol through the central holes. To refuel the burner, you can use any alcohol of at least 85% (for example, methyl technical). Then we close the central holes with a coin. If excess pressure forms inside, it will flip the coin and the burner will not explode.
Before you light our alcohol burner, you need to warm it up first; to do this, take the burner and heat it from below using a lighter so that the gas begins to evaporate. Try to warm it up as much as possible, then ignition will happen faster.
30 ml of alcohol is enough for about 20 minutes of burning, this is quite enough to boil a kettle or fry scrambled eggs. Using our homemade mini-burner, you can boil half a liter of water from a jar in 7-10 minutes. In order to extinguish the burner, you just need to cover it with a cup, pan or something else, or when all the alcohol has burned out, it will go out on its own. You will also need a stand for a saucepan or kettle; it can be bent from wire.
