Artificial wood. Artificial aging of wood

Wood is a beautiful material from which a variety of interior elements are made. It can be decorated different ways. One of the popular techniques is wood aging. This is a rather complicated process that requires certain knowledge from the master.

Expert advice will help you figure out how to do this processing yourself. Aging of wood can be carried out in several ways. After considering all the techniques, you can choose the best option.

Why do you need to age wood?

Aging of wood is carried out for various reasons. This technology allows you to give the material the required decorative qualities. With the help of such finishing you can design certain interior styles. To save money on the purchase of antique, exquisite and very expensive decorative elements, the technology of artificial aging of natural materials is used.

The choice of such finishing may also be caused by the individual preferences of the home owners. If they want to decorate the interior of their home with just such products, artificial aging of wood will provide a wide field for creativity. Give the material the necessary appearance will be easy using the methods presented below.

There are several approaches that help give wood the necessary decorative qualities. Certain materials and tools are used for them. The master will also need a sufficient amount of free time. Rushing in this case can lead to unsatisfactory results.

Mechanical aging of wood

There are various methods for aging wood. They allow you to give the array a certain appearance. One of the most popular approaches is mechanical aging. It is also called brushing or texturing. The wooden surface is treated with a special brush. This allows you to stylize the material, giving it an antique appearance.

Brushing wood involves removing the “pulp” from the structure. This gives relief to the workpiece. It is this process that occurs with wood over a long period of time. It dries out under the influence of various environmental factors.

Experienced craftsmen claim that this is one of the most simple ways wood processing. However, it is not always possible to apply this approach in practice. It depends on the characteristics of the wood species. Also, with this method it is possible to obtain a relief surface. In some cases, it is better to decorate the interior with other types of treated wood.

Features of mechanical aging

Brushing wood may not be used for all types of natural material. This method is suitable for processing almost all coniferous species, especially pine. Brushing is also used for larch, walnut, ash and oak. These are the most popular types of wood that are used today in construction and decoration.

Mechanical aging is not carried out for fruit varieties of natural material. Also, this technology is not used for processing beech, maple, teak, and a number of exotic types of wood. They are rarely used for finishing works. That is why the mechanical method is so popular.

To carry out the treatment you will need to prepare a special brush. It has a metallic “pile”. The procedure requires a sufficient amount of free time. There is no hurry. Otherwise, you can ruin the appearance of the array. This method can be used to age small pieces. For extensive work, it is necessary to use a grinder, drill or special machine.

Manual brushing

Aging wood with your own hands requires a certain concentration from the master. The material must be dry. Otherwise, it will not be possible to provide the required decorative surface. Bullies will appear. Brush along dry wood along the grain. To make the pile tougher, it can be trimmed.

As a result of such manipulations, it is possible to remove the softest fibers from the external structure of the array. After this, the grinding process is carried out. To do this, use a brush with finer bristles or coarse-grit sandpaper.

After this treatment, the array can be painted. For this, stain is most often used. This allows you to create the desired shade. Other dyes can be used. The appearance of the finish will depend on the correct execution of this stage. This is followed by polishing and varnishing. This allows you to protect the natural material from rotting. The surface is coated with varnish several times.

Machine processing

To process a large volume of material, it is necessary to use special equipment. This could be a grinder or an electric drill. A special wire attachment is put on the angle grinder. The work must be carried out carefully so as not to damage the material.

A wood aging machine can also be used. Such equipment is most often used in enterprises. When using it, it is possible to achieve high speed and quality of aging of wood masses. Roughing takes just a few minutes. At this time, small soft fibers are removed.

Wood processing machines are purchased only if it is necessary to process large volumes of materials. The most popular variety is the Festool Rustofix RAS 180 unit. The Makita 974 sanding machine, which includes an abrasive brush, is also used for self-processing wood.

Chemical aging

Artificial aging of wood can be done using other technology. During the processing process, the array is cleaned with coarse sandpaper. Then they begin chemical aging. If you need to treat hardwood, you can use an ammonia solution. You can also use ammonia. It contributes to the darkening of the array.

You can simply clean the surface slightly to highlight the growth rings more clearly. After this, stain and varnish are used. There is another method. Another possible option for chemical aging is the use of a water-based stain. When the desired shade is obtained, the composition is washed off with a sponge and water. This emphasizes the contours of the rings, making the edges darker.

Another option is patting. This is the most complex and highly decorative treatment. In this case, it opens the pores against a more even surface. For this purpose, special chemical compounds are used. They can be purchased in specialized stores.

Heat treatment

Thermal wood aging technology is another way to give wood an antique appearance. The procedure is carried out in several stages. First, firing is carried out over the entire surface of the material. It is also possible to perform treatment only on certain areas. This also adds a decorative touch to the finish. Best used for these purposes gas burner. Before starting work, you need to practice on an unnecessary piece of wood.

Firing will remove all soft fibres. After this, the knots and annual rings of the wood appear more clearly. Next comes mechanical processing. Carbon deposits must be removed using a brush with metal bristles. This will also increase the relief of the pattern.

Dry brush method

Another relatively uncomplicated approach is to dry brush aging wood. To carry it out you will need to use your imagination. First, scratches, gouges, and chips are created on the material. You can skip this step, since this processing is irreversible.

First, one layer of paint is applied to the surface, and then a second. Then they should dry well. Next, use fine sandpaper to remove the top layer of paint. This needs to be done unevenly. In some places the wear should extend to the first coat of paint, and in others to the wood. Particular attention should be paid to protruding parts and edges.

Next, paint is applied using a dry brush. You need to choose a flat, hard brush. The paint should be contrasting. If the base is light, the top layer should be dark. The paint should look like a bristle mark. Strokes cannot be crossed. Next, fresh strokes are lubricated with a cloth. Then apply transparent varnish. It is applied in 2 layers.

Wood restoration

Another type of wood aging is its restoration. This must be done if the appearance of the decor is lost. First you need to clean the surface. Next, the wood is covered acrylic paint in 2 layers. Then the protruding surfaces are rubbed with paraffin. They are painted in the required shade. Then, after drying, the areas treated with paraffin are cleaned off. The final finishing is carried out using varnish.

Having considered the features of wood aging, you can create the necessary decor yourself.

With deep processing, it becomes possible to use wood more fully by increasing the yield of raw materials for the production of cellulose and materials based on it, and by involving almost all waste, even bark, in processing.

Casein and synthetic wood adhesives

Casein glue is prepared from low-fat cottage cheese with the addition of slaked lime, copper sulfate, and sodium fluoride. It is easy to prepare, does not rot so easily, and is less susceptible to dampness.

Casein glue completely replaces wood glue and is even more convenient to use, since it needs to be prepared immediately before gluing. Dilute it with water (preferably warm), mixing one part of the glue with 1.5-2 parts of water. You need to stir without leaving any lumps. The glue will be good when it is homogeneous and resembles liquid sour cream in thickness. You can use the glue 15-20 minutes after preparation. Casein glue, unlike carpentry glue, cannot be prepared for future use - it thickens quite quickly and becomes unusable after 4-6 hours. Apply glue to the surfaces to be glued with a wooden spatula or brush. The parts to be glued are compressed in the same way as when working with wood glue. Drying is best done in a warm room, but it can also be done under normal room conditions.

Synthetic adhesives
Of the various synthetic adhesives, the most accessible are BF brand adhesives. They are sold ready-made and are suitable for gluing various materials(including wood) in any combination.

The procedure for working with BF-2 and BF-4 adhesives is as follows. If wood has oil or grease stains, it should be wiped with cotton wool soaked in gasoline or acetone. Metal parts connected to wood must first be sanded or cleaned with a steel wire brush.

Gluing is done like this. A thin layer of glue is applied to the surface of the parts to be glued, which is allowed to dry “tack-free” - until the finger stops sticking to the glue. Then a second, thicker layer of glue is applied, slightly dried, and after that the parts are clamped in a vice, clamps or other method. Drying should be done by heating the gluing for 1-2 hours. The temperature for BF-2 glue is 120-200 ° C, for BF-4 - 60-90 ° C. If special strength is not required, the glued parts must be kept in a press at room temperature for up to four days. BF brand adhesives are prepared using volatile solvents, so containers with glue must be well closed.

Synthetic composite drying oils. Drying oil Texik (Lipetsk)

When building a summer house based on wood, or arranging an apartment based on the use of wooden planks, you should know that all wood should be pre-treated with drying oil. Treatment with drying oil or, as it is correctly called, drying oil, is very important for wood; drying oil will protect against rotting, blue stains and woodworms. Don’t repeat my mistakes, the fact is that I also thought that the drying stage was not very important, for which I paid the price: after two years, some of the boards began to rot. In general, as they say, “the miser pays twice,” that is, I had to dismantle the boards and buy new ones and then cover them as expected, that is, with drying oil. I didn’t lose a lot of money, of course, but it’s still a shame; in general, I paid for my own negligence. So any building structure made of wood must undergo all the necessary treatments, including treatment with drying oil, unless of course you want to pay twice...
Applying drying oil with a brush in several layers In one of my articles on this site “The importance of using drying oil. Natural oil drying oil or Oxol? I indicated the description and use of several types of drying oil - oxol and natural. In this article I want to add one small addition; for external work, for example, for processing wooden boards and external walls, you can use not only Oxol. Today there is a very good drying oil, which costs much less than its analogues, and is not inferior in quality. This drying oil is called Composite or Synthetic; its main components are not natural resins and oils, but petroleum products - synthetic substitutes. This drying oil costs very little, although it has a very unpleasant smell and takes a little longer to dry than other drying oils, but it is very effective. By the way, drying oil forms a protective film on the tree, which, by the way, can be an independent decorative coating; the tree after such treatment looks quite aesthetically pleasing.

Coating a wooden floor with drying oil This means that today there are a lot of types of synthetic drying oils, for example glypthal, pentaphthalic, oligodivinylstyrene, polydiene and many other types. Personally, I used a synthetic drying oil called Texik, for the reason that this composition produces a stronger film than some other drying oils. This synthetic drying oil is also used for preparing or diluting various quality paints. When you purchase such drying oil, pay attention to its expiration date; also, the drying oil should not have sediment, it should be homogeneous. Texik drying oil is produced in one small city in Russia, called Lipetsk, Texik is sold in plastic containers of 1 liter, 3 liters, 5 liters and 10 liters. Also, do not forget that synthetic drying oil has an unpleasant, pungent odor, so it is better to use it for outdoor use. Also store this drying oil in a dark place away from sun rays, just close the container with drying oil well. Drying oil must be applied with a brush onto a well-prepared wood surface, that is, the boards must be clean and preferably treated with sandpaper, and the wood must also be dry. By the way, if you haven’t found Texik drying oil, then you can choose any other synthetic drying oil; there are a lot of such drying oils on every construction market today.

Paneling.

Paneling is the process of covering the surface of wood with a durable transparent film of synthetic resins. A film resembling cellophane is glued onto planed plywood of valuable species. Typically, light (mostly fish) glue is used, which does not affect the color and texture of the plywood. Plywood covered with film - panels using the methods adopted for veneering - is glued onto the surface to be finished. By placing all kinds of powders, drawings, paintings, photographs, etc. under the films, you can increase the artistry of the panel.
Panel finishing is valuable for its high hygiene, the absence of defects characteristic of paint and varnish coatings, as well as relatively quick execution. This type of finishing does not require expensive paints and varnishes; in addition, the finishing process can be completely mechanized using equipment used for veneering. The production of panels is simple and quite accessible to every plywood factory.

The newest method of finishing wood with bakelite films imitating the texture of valuable species. The essence of the new finishing method is as follows. The wood is covered with two thin transparent bakelite films with textured paper sandwiched between them and subjected to hot pressing. Under the influence of temperature and pressure, the synthetic resin with which the film is impregnated melts and adheres to the surface of the wood, and then again turns into a solid, irreversible state, remaining firmly adhered to the surface. At the same time, the resin acquires a tone very close to the tone of natural mahogany wood, and the texture pattern applied to the texture paper, which was pressed between the films, becomes clearer and more beautiful.
Pressing is carried out by applying a polished metal gasket to the film. Thanks to this, the finished surface is smooth and shiny and does not require additional varnishing or polishing.
The texture pattern can be matched to a Christmas tree, a corner, a checkerboard, or an envelope. You can also imitate marquetry and intarsia.

Finishing wood with resin films does not require expensive materials. Films of synthetic resins are produced in large quantities by our chemical industry; the most ordinary white thin unpolished paper is suitable for texture printing. Inks for printing textures and dyes for tinting paper or tinting resin can be purchased at any specialty store. Textured paper can be produced by printing and directly in carpentry using cliches, squeegees and printing rollers. To make rollers, it is enough to have a tank for cooking roller mixture, a filtering and filling tank and a pouring table.

When finishing with resin films, pressing of parts such as panels, plywood panels, rectangular bars is carried out in a multi-plate (multi-tier) heated press. Finishing of profile parts requires the use of an autoclave and rubber vacuum chambers. The technology of finishing with resin films depends on whether the parts are finished from solid wood or whether the finishing is done using veneer sheets intended for gluing onto parts using conventional veneering, as in paneling.
When finishing flat solid wood parts, two bakelite films are applied to their well-prepared surface, between which a carefully smoothed sheet of texture paper is placed. Having covered the part with a polished metal gasket, it is pressed into place in a hot multi-plate press at a temperature of 140-150°. Press pressure force is 15-18 kg/cm2. Holding time under pressure is 30-40 minutes.

The part is removed from the press completely finished. Finishing of profile parts is carried out using the paneling method. The resin film is applied to a sheet of birch veneer - plain (without false core stripes, without knots and shuttles), well sanded, with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.8 mm. Often they take not one, but from 2 to 6 sheets of 0.4 mm thick veneer, arranging them with the same grain direction and interlayering the sheets with resin films. Two films are placed on the top sheet of veneer with a sheet of texture paper between them; The face of the top veneer sheet should be well sanded.

The package thus formed is covered with a polished metal gasket and subjected to hot pressing. The pressing mode is the same as for solid parts. The glue is resin films that melt and then harden again. After pressing, a final finished sheet of high-quality panelin is obtained.

The thickness of the veneer collected in the package and the number of veneer sheets in the package, i.e., in a panel sheet, depend on the purpose of the panel. To paste parts with a complex profile, the panel must be thin, elastic and consist of one or two sheets of the thinnest veneer. A single-layer panel can be used to cover profile parts with a radius of curvature of 7 mm, and a double-layer panel with a radius of curvature of 30 mm or more.

Finishing of products with resin films is done in detail. When assembling products from paneled parts, the same precautions must be taken as when assembling products from polished parts. Finishing wood with resin films is superior in quality to all other known types of finishing. The finished surface has a non-fading mirror shine, it is resistant to moisture, light, heat, and is resistant to mechanical stress. It is fire resistant (burns only in a strong flame) and is not destroyed by hot water, gasoline, alkalis and acids. The imitation texture is clear and durable.

Production and economic indicators include:
1) extremely short finishing time (no more than one hour);
2) availability of execution for low-skilled carpenters, even for auxiliary workers;
3) no need for dryers;
4) the use of relatively simple equipment;
5) use of non-scarce finishing materials;
6) reduction in the cost of finishing several times.

Recently, methods have been found for producing films from synthetic alcohol-water-soluble resins for finishing wood, both with imitation of valuable species using textured paper, and without imitation of the color of natural or tinted wood. Finishing films can be made from phenol-formaldehyde, urea-formaldehyde, melamine-formaldehyde and urea-melamine-formaldehyde resins. Phenolic resin films turn red under the influence of high temperature and light; films made from resins containing urea (urea) without melamine are not sufficiently water resistant. Films made from urea-melamine-formaldehyde resins will apparently be the best for exterior wood finishing: they are completely transparent, colorless and water-light-heat-resistant.

Wood gluing Gluing is a widespread operation. It ensures the connection of individual parts of wood into one whole (for example, in the manufacture of load-bearing wooden structures), or the connection of individual parts (the chair on which we sit), or the cladding of panels (veneer and particle board). Gluing can significantly reduce production and make woodworking a more technologically advanced process. Only adhesives and gluing methods have made it possible to create new effective wood materials, such as particle boards, plywood, and laminated plastics. Thus, glued wood surrounds us everywhere. The reader may have questions: what are adhesives, when did they appear, how does gluing occur? Let's try to answer them. Adhesives are those compositions that, under certain conditions, harden and connect separate masses of the same material or dissimilar materials (wood - metal, plastic - wood, paper - wood, etc.). Certain conditions mean chemical reactions, heating, pressure. Archeology and ancient manuscripts indicate that people used adhesives in ancient times. Clay - this ancient material - was already glue (in relation to building materials). In the modern understanding of the term “glue,” we can recall glues made from skins (hide glue), from bones (bone glue), from fish products, from animal blood (albumin glue). The production of adhesives of animal and plant origin and gluing with them was highly developed in ancient Egypt, Rome, Athens, China, and Rus'.

How to paint wood correctly?

Wood coloring is used to fix, revive or enhance its natural color; give the wood a deeper tone and desired color: imitate a valuable species; hide defects (blue stains, spots, stripes) or poor selection of individual parts of the product by color; highlight species (for example, oak) for decorative purposes by filling them with a different color dye or powder.

Previously, dyes extracted from plant and animal organisms were used to dye wood. For example, wood dyeing is widely used in Brown color obtained substances contained in some soils and coals, known as walnut stain, or walnut stain. The coloring matter in them is hummic acids.

Currently, dyes obtained synthetically from coal tars are becoming increasingly important.

Most dyes are soluble in water or other liquids (alcohols, oils).
Direct and surface dyeing

For dyeing wood surfaces in furniture production, the following materials are used: gum dyes (walnut stain), synthetic dyes, water (not higher than 10-16° hardness) to dissolve dyes, ammonia as an additive to solutions of synthetic dyes for uniform dyeing and deepening of tone coloring, sea grass, bast, wood shavings, sanding paper No. 140-170 for wiping after dyeing and drying.

To prepare a dye solution, add the amount of dye weighed according to the recipe into water heated to 60-80°, stir until completely dissolved and let stand for the following time: – for gum dyes - at least 48 hours; for synthetic dyes - before cooling to room temperature; – for a mixture of gum and synthetic dyes - at least 48 hours.

The settled solution is carefully poured into a working container without stirring up the sediment.

Apply the solution with a brush, a greasy sponge, a clean cotton rag, or using a spray bottle along the wood fibers. On vertical surfaces, application of the solution begins from the bottom.

After wetting the entire surface with the solution, wipe it with a wrung-out sponge or rag. When painting high-quality furniture, the dye solution is applied only to a surface that has been previously moistened with a damp cloth. Furniture made from lumber parts can be painted by dipping the product into a bath of solution and then wiping it. The dye solution in this case can have a temperature of up to 50°.

Painted products are dried at a temperature not lower than +18° for 1.5 hours. The coloring should be uniform, and the surfaces after wiping should be uniformly glossy.

Mordant and developed dyeing

When mordant dyeing, the surface is first treated with a mordant solution. Mordants are salts of certain metals (copper sulfate, potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, etc.), with which the coloring solution reacts, forming an insoluble colored compound. Depending on the type of mordant used, the same coloring solution can produce different shades and even colors. The mordant and dye are chosen depending on the color in which it needs to be painted.

Developed dyeing is the sequential treatment of the surface - first with a solution of tannin (tannin, pyrogallic acid, etc.), and then with a mordant. Treatment with tannins does not change the color of wood. Coloring occurs after wetting the surface treated with tannin with a weak solution of a metal salt (mordant), which acts as a developer.

The tannin and metal salt are selected depending on the color type.

When dyeing wood, one should take into account the characteristics of various species and their interaction with dyes. Thus, tannins of some species, reacting with dyes, interfere with obtaining pure color tones; the resinous nature of coniferous wood also interferes with good coloring.

The best colors are maple, pear, apple, birch, alder, wild chestnut, spruce, elm, hornbeam, beech, and oak. For ebony finishing, pear, birch, and maple are recommended; walnut - linden, alder, birch, ; under mahogany - beech, light walnut, linden, birch.

Paints for wood and rules for their use.

Modern paint and varnish products include many materials for wood finishing in their range. In this article we will limit ourselves to a description of tinting compounds - dyes.

Wood dyeing is done to enhance the color, eliminate different shades of parts in the product, even out the overall color tone, give the wood a new color and imitate the color of valuable species.

Dyes are substances that are soluble in water, alcohol and other liquids and form transparent solutions that change the color of wood without veiling its texture.

Depending on their origin, dyes are divided into natural and synthetic.

Among the dyes of natural origin, walnut stain (stain) is widely used. The sources of humic acids for this dye are coal, peat, and soil. It colors oak, walnut and other woods an even brown color.

Synthetic dyes are complex organic substances, the raw material for which is coal tar.

Natural and synthetic dyes, according to the principle of action, are divided into direct (dying wood fiber directly), acidic (dying wood in the presence of acids) and basic (dying wood containing tannins).

The preparation of working dye compositions involves dissolving them until there is a complete absence of insoluble residues. Based on solubility in various liquids, dyes are divided into water-soluble, alcohol-soluble, etc.

Water-soluble dyes are mixtures of direct and acid dyes, selected to obtain a specific shade. Concentration of dyes in aqueous solution is 1-5%. The disadvantage of these materials is that they raise pile on the painted surface. It must be removed by sanding the surface with a fine-grained material, so that during subsequent finishing you do not get a rough coating.

Aqueous solutions of dyes are prepared as follows: weighed dye is dissolved in a small amount of hot (95 ° C) water and stirred until a homogeneous mixture free of lumps is formed. The resulting mass is again diluted with water. If the dye dissolves poorly, the solution can be heated without bringing it to a boil. After the dye has completely dissolved, the solution is filtered through 3-4 layers of gauze and cooled to 30-40 °C. Then, adding water, bring it to the desired volume. The water is first softened by boiling or 0.1-0.5% soda ash is added.

To obtain an even and deep tone of the painted surface, it is recommended to add 2-4% to the working solution. ammonia. When working with water-soluble dyes No. 2, 3, 4, 15, 16, in order to paint the pores of wood, add 5% to the solution acetic acid 30% concentration. To avoid foaming, add 0.5% butanol.

Alcohol-soluble organic dyes are mixtures made up of different dyes. They are intended for painting wood, but are most often used for tinting furniture varnishes and polishes (mainly nitrocellulose and alcohol). In the working solution, the concentration of alcohol-soluble dyes is 1-3%.

Wood finishing varnishes are tinted using two methods. The first is that a solvent is added to the weighed amount of dye and left for 24 hours. Then the solution is filtered through 3-4 layers of gauze and added to the varnish. For example, to prepare a 1% solution of alcohol dye No. 33, 10 g of dye is dissolved in 350 g of alcohol or solvent No. 646, kept, filtered and added to 650 g of varnish. The second method involves introducing the dye directly into the varnish. After a day's exposure, the varnish is filtered.

Mixed dyes are often used for dyeing wood. However, only dyes of the same groups can be mixed, for example, acidic with acidic, etc.

You can apply the dye manually (with a swab or brush), spraying, dipping and other methods. The solution must be applied in excess so that the wood can freely absorb the dye. When painting birch and beech, the surface to be finished should be moistened with water. When dyeing by hand, the dye is applied along and then across the fibers, after which the excess is wiped off. On vertical surfaces, the dye is applied from bottom to top so that the excess flows down the already painted surface.

After spray painting, the surface is also wiped with a swab. When dyeing by dipping, wiping of parts is not performed. In this case, the dye solution is heated to a temperature of 40-50 ° C for deeper penetration into the wood.

When spraying, the dye can be applied “wet” and “dry” methods. When “wet” dyeing, the pressure on the solution is 0.25-0.35 MPa, the distance to the surface of the part is 250-300 mm, the diameter of the spray nozzle is 1.2 mm. The dye consumption in this case is 2-4 g/m2.

“Dry” dyeing is used when finishing coated surfaces of parts with glue stains and when it is necessary to veil the texture of wood. The difference between this method is that most of The solvent evaporates before the jet reaches the surface to be painted, so there is no strong wetting of the wood. The dye forms a thick, brittle layer. This is achieved by using high pressure - 0.4-0.5 MPa. The distance to the surface to be finished is 400-500 mm, the diameter of the spray nozzle is 1.2-2 mm, the dye consumption is 1.5-2 g/m2. After “dry” dyeing, the pile on the wood does not rise (since the surface of the wood is not moistened), so the operations of grinding the pile and drying are eliminated.

After painting the parts by hand, they are dried for 3 hours at a temperature of 18-23 ° C or 10 minutes in convection drying chamber at a temperature of 45-50 °C. After painting using the “wet” method, the parts are dried for 2 hours at 18-23 ° C or 10 minutes in a drying chamber.

It turns out with deep . With deep processing, it becomes possible to use wood more fully by increasing the yield of raw materials for the production of cellulose and materials based on it, and by involving almost all waste, even bark, in processing.

At advanced wood processing plants, the utilization rate of wood raw materials reaches 0.98. Using waste wood together with adhesives, synthetic and mineral binders, it is possible to produce materials and products that are not inferior in properties to wood and even superior to it (fibreboards and particle boards, plywood based on waterproof adhesives, wood concrete, etc.).

In this case, it is possible to obtain significant savings in lumber (for example, 1 m3 of fiberboard replaces 3...4 m3 of lumber). A reasonable measure to save wood is to replace it in construction, where appropriate, with other effective materials (for example, polymers) and increase its durability.

Mimicking the natural beauty of wood but made from 100% plastic, synthetic wood has the same variety of colors and textures as real wood, but is fade-free and maintenance-free.
Unlike wood or composite wooden materials, synthetic wood does not require maintenance, painting or finishing, while maintaining its original beauty. 100% plastic – hard and durable. It does not use any organic additives such as wood or bamboo shavings. This means zero water absorption, or rather eliminates any risk of rotting, molding or cracking.

Synthetic wood is made from recycled polystyrene foam that would otherwise be burned or landfilled. Also, synthetic wood can be recycled or reused in production.

Silk, leather, bone and horn have been used by humans for centuries. In essence, they are all composites consisting of thin fiber and a resinous binder. Unlike artificial ones, natural composites have a much thinner and more complex structure.

In many respects, natural materials are superior to their artificial counterparts. An interesting study was conducted at the Biomimetics Center at the University of Reading in the UK. Longitudinal study natural materials was aimed at a detailed study of their microstructure, which would significantly improve the quality of artificial composites if it was possible to reproduce the structure natural materials. For 20 years, research has been carried out in the laboratories of the University of Reading mechanical characteristics wood and other lignin-containing plants.

Wood is a natural composite, in the structure of which four levels of organization can be distinguished: molecular, fibrillar, cellular and macroscopic. The main chemical component of wood is cellulose, the molecule of which in turn consists of many sugar molecules connected in a chain. These molecules are grouped into microfibrils containing varying numbers of sugar-based molecules such as hemicellulose.

The binder for these oxen is the phenolic polymer lignin. Cellulose fibrils form the walls of wood cells, tubular structures with a diameter of 0.1 millimeters and a length of several millimeters. The complex tubular structure of wood cells gives the wood high strength.

A clearly distinguishable spiral structure is observed in the structure of tree cells. The tensile strength of both softwood and hardwood is approximately 10 times higher than that calculated based on the assumption that tensile pulls the cellulose out of the resinous binder. In fact, when a wood sample is stretched along the length, the tubular structures stretch elastically, gaps are formed in the cell walls between the turns of the spiral, but the cellulose molecules themselves remain intact and withstand the load.

You can depict this process by stretching a spiral-twisted strip of paper or a straw. Tree cells can stretch up to 20 percent. This is what gives the tree its strength. And since this increase in strength is not determined chemical composition, and by structural parameters, it can be reproduced for other materials.

Initially, attempts to reproduce the structure of wood used cylindrical tubes made of spirally wound glass fiber impregnated with a thermosetting resin. Maximum tensile strength was achieved when the angle of winding was 15 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the wood cage.

Another technology, borrowed from the production of corrugated cardboard, turned out to be easier and cheaper. Corrugated surfaces were formed from sheets of glass fiber impregnated with resin with parallel ridges so that the ridges were located at an angle of 15 degrees to the corrugation ribs. The molded sheets were then stacked one on one, thus simulating the long hollow cells of wood with spirally arranged cellulose molecules.

Mechanical tests have shown that engineered wood behaves like real wood under load and combines high impact resistance, tensile strength and low weight. Artificial wood has been measured to be the strongest known artificial material.
The results of this research make it possible to create materials that have specified strength characteristics, such as resistance to the impact of a massive body moving at low speed, the impact of a knife, as well as bulletproofness. Corrugated composite panels can be made from carbon fiber, Kevlar, glass fiber, or a mixture thereof, impregnated with epoxy resin.

The experiment examined panels with twisted and parallel fiber structures. The orientation of the fibers in a certain direction, leading to different strength indicators along different axes of the samples, was neutralized by gluing the panels together like plywood.

The strength characteristics of the resulting composite depend on the angle of the fibers, the size of the corrugation and the thickness of the sheet in relation to the size of the holes. Upon impact, energy is distributed over a large area and absorbed. The strength of the material after impact does not decrease significantly; it can be reused.

Igor PRIVALOV

Construction and real estate

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Synthetic wood - reasonable savings. How to paint wood correctly? Paints for wood and rules for their use.

Synthetic wood is obtained through deep processing of wood. With deep processing, it becomes possible to use wood more fully by increasing the yield of raw materials for the production of cellulose and materials based on it, and by involving almost all waste, even bark, in processing.

Synthetic wood obtained through deep processing of wood. With deep processing, it becomes possible to use wood more fully by increasing the yield of raw materials for the production of cellulose and materials based on it, and by involving almost all waste, even bark, in processing.

At advanced wood processing plants, the utilization rate of wood raw materials reaches 0.98. Using waste wood together with adhesives, synthetic and mineral binders, it is possible to produce materials and products that are not inferior in properties to wood and even superior to it (fibreboards and particle boards, plywood based on waterproof adhesives, wood concrete, etc.).

In this case, it is possible to obtain significant savings in lumber (for example, 1 m3 of fiberboard replaces 3...4 m3 of lumber). A reasonable measure to save wood is to replace it in construction, where appropriate, with other effective materials (for example, polymers) and increase its durability.

Mimicking the natural beauty of wood but made from 100% plastic, synthetic wood has the same variety of colors and textures as real wood, but is fade-free and maintenance-free.

Unlike wood or composite wood materials, synthetic wood requires absolutely no maintenance, painting or finishing while maintaining its original beauty. 100% plastic - hard and durable. It does not use any organic additives such as wood or bamboo shavings. This means zero water absorption, or rather, eliminates any risk of rotting, molding or cracking.

Synthetic wood is made from recycled polystyrene foam that would otherwise be burned or landfilled. Also, synthetic wood can be recycled or reused in production.

How to paint wood correctly?

Wood coloring is used to fix, revive or enhance its natural color; give the wood a deeper tone and desired color: imitate a valuable species; hide defects (blue stains, spots, stripes) or poor selection of individual parts of the product by color; highlight species (for example, oak) for decorative purposes by filling them with a different color dye or powder.

Previously, dyes extracted from plant and animal organisms were used to dye wood. For example, substances contained in some soils and coals, known as walnut stain or walnut stain, are widely used for dyeing wood brown. The coloring matter in them is hummic acids.

Currently, dyes obtained synthetically from coal tars are becoming increasingly important.

Many design styles (French, Tuscan, vintage, shabby chic and others) are characterized by the presence of antique wood products among their elements. The worn paint and texture of old wood add a special charm to the interiors. In their work, designers actively use antique furniture, wall panels, floors, stairs, beams, columns and other small decor. However, antiques are not cheap, which greatly inflates the cost of projects, and wooden elements from the past do not differ in strength and durability. To solve these problems, artificial aging of wood has appeared, and you can even do it yourself.

Aging Methods

Make old wooden surface possible in several ways. The choice of the desired aging method is influenced by the type of wood, features of the design style, the availability of the necessary tools and materials, professional skills and experience. The most common types of artificial aging of natural wood are:

• chemical method;
• heat treatment;
• aging wood using the dry brush method.

Chemical method

In order to process wooden crafts This method requires special chemical reagents, professional tools, certain qualifications and knowledge. Caustic substances (acids, alkalis or copper sulfate) are applied to the surface of the parts, after which the wood changes color and the soft fibers are destroyed. The process itself is fraught with health hazards and requires increased safety measures. It is almost impossible to implement such artificial aging with your own hands and at home.

Heat treatment method

The essence of this technological process consists of burning less dense layers of wood using an open fire. It consists of several stages:

• annealing of soft fibers until the desired wood texture is obtained;
• cleaning the surface with abrasive materials;
• applying varnish.

To implement this method with your own hands, you can use a completely affordable tool - a regular blowtorch.

Brushing

The name of this technique comes from the English word “brush”, which means brush. Brushing is based on the structural features of wood, consisting of hard and soft fibers, and the process itself consists of combing out soft fibers from wood using a metal brush and giving the surface the texture of old wood. Do-it-yourself brushing can be divided into a number of successive stages:

• mechanical processing of wood along the grain;
• cleaning from chips and lint;
• glossing;
• applying stain or patination;
• varnish coating.

Despite the fact that the brushing tool seems extremely simple, the process itself is quite labor-intensive. When using this method of applying a patina of antiquity to wooden products, it should be remembered that hardwood species, as well as pine, yew and larch, cannot be brushed.

Artificial aging of wood using the dry brush method

This process is also easy to do with your own hands; it is applicable to cabinets, tables, shelves, armchairs and other types of home furniture. It consists of several stages, and not all of them are required.

1. Creating the effect of many years of use.

At this stage, scratches, gouges, chips and dents are applied to the surface of the furniture. To do this you will need carpentry tools and a little imagination. Since the damage caused is irreversible, this stage of wood aging can be skipped.

1. Coloring.

For this, two paint options of similar shades are used. First, one is applied, and after drying, the second one is applied.

1. Surface treatment with abrasive materials or sanding.

Use fine sandpaper or sand to remove the top layer of paint. This is done unevenly, in some places only up to the first layer, and in others up to the wood. It is important to achieve a natural worn effect, so special attention should be paid to edges and protruding parts. After sanding, shavings and wood dust are removed using a vacuum cleaner.

1. Applying paint with a dry brush.

At this stage it is important to choose the right tool for applying paint. A stiff, flat brush works best. The choice of paint should also be approached responsibly. It should be contrasting with previously used shades. For a light base the best option there will be dark shades of brown or burgundy paint. The technology of applying paint to the surface in this method of aging wood is the most complex. The paint is applied with your own hands with an almost dry brush; the strokes should look like a trace of numerous bristles. Crossing strokes is not allowed.

1. Rubbing the top layer.

To do this, use a cloth napkin, which is used to lubricate the newly applied strokes.

1. Coating the surface with varnish.

It is best to use a clear varnish, which should be applied in one or two layers.

There are several other ways to force wood to age with your own hands, but they are not so effective and do not always achieve the desired goal.