Elegant wooden chair with your own hands. Chair: structure, materials and elements, diagrams, different types for adults and children How to make a chair with your own hands from wood
If you have a carpentry workshop equipped by modern standards, making a garden chair from wood with your own hands is very simple. Even a novice carpenter can cope with this task. But what to do if the only tools in your arsenal are a hand saw and a drill?
The article describes in detail and shows how, with the help of these two “helpers,” you can make a durable, reliable and, moreover, aesthetically attractive garden chair. A three-dimensional model and a drawing with dimensions will help you quickly navigate the project and correctly manufacture the parts of the future item. The material also contains some recommendations for assembling and processing a wooden chair.
Materials
To make a garden chair you will need a cut pine board 25-30 mm thick and 140 mm wide. Also, for the manufacture of lintels, a wooden beam of 5050 mm is needed. These parts can also be made from boards, but this will significantly reduce the strength of the structure. The garden chair will be used in harsh conditions, so a margin of safety will not hurt.All structural elements are connected using self-tapping screws and wood glue. At the same time, as can be seen in the photographs presented, the fasteners themselves are not visible. To “disguise” them you will need standard 8mm furniture dowels. The length of the screws is 30 mm.
Now for the amount of materials:
- Board – 5 m.
- Beam – 2.5 m.
- Self-tapping screws – 60 pcs.
- Dowels – 20 pcs.
Tools
The main idea of the material is to use a minimum of tools that any home craftsman has to make a garden chair. Whatever one may say, you should prepare the following:- wood hacksaw;
- drill;
- wood drill with a diameter of 2.5 mm;
- wood drill with a diameter of 8 mm;
- a bit for self-tapping screws (you can also use a screwdriver);
- 100 grit sandpaper;
- carpenter's square;
- roulette;
- simple pencil.
- jigsaw;
- a circular saw;
- electric plane;
- sanding machine (preferably orbital);
- carpentry clamps.
Details of a wooden garden chair
The best place to start is by making the back legs. These are the most difficult parts of the chair, since there is an oblique cut of the board. It is necessary so that the back has a certain slope, which improves the comfort and attractiveness of the chair.Next, longitudinal and transverse jumpers are cut from the timber. As mentioned above, it is quite possible to make these parts from the same 30 mm board. But it’s better, nevertheless, to use timber.
The last step is to make the front legs and slats to finish the seat and backrest. In the example given, for this purpose, a 14-centimeter edged board was unfurled lengthwise. In principle, it is quite difficult to perform such an operation manually. Therefore, if you don’t have a jigsaw or a circular saw, you can use a whole board 14 cm wide. Although narrow slats look more attractive on the finished product. In addition, if your edged board is not very smooth, longitudinal sawing will make it easier to fit the parts to the required size.
After cutting all the elements of the garden chair, it is recommended to immediately process them with a plane and sandpaper. To improve the appearance, it is advisable to round all the edges that will be on the outside. Even if you don’t have a plane or a special grinder, we take a drill, a disk attachment and abrasive wheels with a grain size of 100 units. The chair shown in the example was completely processed using only this set (not even a plane was used).
To extend the life of the sandpaper, it must be periodically cleaned of chips. To do this, the easiest and cheapest way is to use insulation in the form of foamed polyethylene (the one that is covered with foil on one side). If you “walk” sandpaper over such polyethylene, it will be completely cleaned. This method does not work only against tar plaque. When the paper becomes clogged with resin, all that remains is to throw it away.
Stages and nuances of assembling a wooden chair
The technology for connecting all parts of the chair is the same. It's called the "invisible screw".The execution sequence is as follows:
- The parts are gradually applied to each other as shown in the drawings and photographs. For convenience and greater accuracy, they are fixed with clamps.
- Holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm and a depth of 30 mm are drilled for self-tapping screws.
- In the same places, the holes are expanded with an 8 mm drill to a depth of about 10 mm.
- Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes. To make them go easier, it is recommended to lubricate the tip with regular motor oil.
- Wood glue is applied to the remaining holes and dowels are driven in.
- After the glue has dried, the protruding parts of the dowels are cut off with a hacksaw.
The process begins with the longitudinal jumpers and the front leg being attached to the rear leg. There will be two such assemblies. During the process, special attention should be paid to ensuring that the parts are perpendicular. The right angle is controlled and checked with a carpenter's square.
Next, you need to connect the resulting sides at key points. For a chair, this is the lower rear crossbar, as well as slats - the upper one on the back, and the front one on the seat. It is better to connect only one screw at each point at once. If perpendicularity is violated, the situation can be easily corrected. Only after this a second self-tapping screw is added to the key connections.
All that remains is to evenly distribute the remaining lamellas and secure them in the manner described above. It is better to use two self-tapping screws at each point. This way the structure will be as rigid as possible and, accordingly, reliable.
After assembly, the final polishing of the product is carried out. At this stage, you can remove many errors made earlier. The remaining dowels are also sanded. The decorative and protective finish of the chair is not shown in the photographs, since the required material (tung oil) was not available at the time of assembly. For these purposes, you can also use wood stains, glossy or matte varnishes.
Results and cost of a garden chair
If you work only with a hacksaw and a drill, then it will take about 8 hours to make the parts and assemble them. In a well-equipped carpentry workshop, 3-4 hours will be enough.At cost. The board and timber to make one such chair cost about $5. Self-tapping screws and dowels – $1.50. Sandpaper and used glue are another $1. Decorative oil treatment - about $2. In total, the cost of a DIY garden chair is less than $10. Naturally, it is unrealistic to buy solid wood furniture in a store for that kind of money.
Craftsman Tom McLaughlin designed this chair by combining elements from different furniture styles without sacrificing comfort for beauty. Using templates it is easy to make curved parts. Tom uses three machines to make joints: a band saw, a circular saw and a slotting machine (you can use a drill press with a slotting attachment instead). Having completed the carpentry part of the work, complement the chair with a comfortable seat, which is made in a simple and proven way.
Think carefully before you cut
The design of a chair consists of many parts that require attention and concentration in their manufacture and fitting. Here's what Tom advises.
Shape the legs
1. Using the diagrams as a guide, draw the contours of the posterior leg A real size (Fig. 1). Glue the drawing onto 6mm hardboard and cut out a template, marking the position of the sockets on it. Trace the outline of the template onto the back leg blank and cut with a band saw, keeping the cut close to the contour line. Then cut out the second back leg.
Tom advises! To achieve a better appearance, The texture pattern on the anterior side of both hind legs should be mirror symmetrical. To do this, when marking the contours, useswarm legs turn the template over, swapping its ends (photo A). Then you need to place several legs side by side along the width of the board. This ensures that you get paired parts that look like reflections in a mirror. (photo B).
2. Using double-sided tape, glue the template to the sawn leg blank. Secure a long pin in the collet of the router installed in the table.
piercing cutter with a bearing and adjust its offset, aligning the bearing with the edge of the template. Contour the back legs to the final shape. Mark the top and bottom of each leg with a pencil, remove the template and sand the legs to the outline lines.
3. Cut out the front legs IN(“List of Materials” and rice. 1). Mark those front edges. Angle the saw blade at a 7° angle and cut a bevel on the outside of each leg so that the front edge is wider than the back edge. Without changing the inclination of the disk, cut out two strips of wedge-shaped section 250-300 mm long, which will be required when selecting nests in the legs, under the same corner from the scraps.
Cut out the blanks for the back parts
1. Cut out the bottom crossbar WITH backrests (Fig. 4), but don't make bevels on its top edge just yet. Mark the positions of the four sockets.
2. Cut out the top crossbar D backrests (Fig. 5) with an allowance of 10 mm in length. Make two copies of the top rail template. Glue one copy to the bottom edge, but don't cut out the curved shape yet.
3. For the middle board E and side bars F backrests, make a blank measuring 13 x 178 x 533 mm (Fig. 6). You will saw off the side pieces later after cutting the tenons.
Select all slots
1. Mark the position of the sockets on the legs A, B (Fig. 1 and2) , remembering that the parts must be mirror copies.
2. Select a 10mm socket for the front drawer G in the front legs B (photo C, rice. 2). Rotate the front leg IN so that its beveled edge is adjacent to the stop on the table of the slotting or drilling machine (photoD) and make a 10mm angled socket for the side drawer N. Do the same with the second front leg.
WEDGES WILL HELP INSTALL PARTS IN THE RIGHT POSITION
To ensure that the walls of the socket are parallel to the front edge, place the leg with the beveled edge down, placing a wedge-shaped strip under it.
Place the part with the front edge on the wedge and use the second to secure it in the clamp. Do not use a second wedge if your machine does not have one.
3. If you do not have a large enough piece of workpiece left over from sawing out the rear legs, make a curved support (tsulaga) measuring 90x525 mm (photo E) from scraps whose thickness is equal to or slightly less than the thickness of the leg. It will help hold the leg at the desired angle when selecting a socket for the side drawer.
Transfer the outer marks of the drawer socket to a piece of board, trace the leg template and cut out the curved support-tsulaga with a band saw.
Align the marking lines of the nest on the leg and the tsulag. If the leg rests on the machine table, the socket will be selected at an angle.
4. Using a curved support (photoF), select in the back leg A 10mm socket for side drawer N. Do the same with the second back leg.
5. To select 10mm sockets for the lower backrest rail WITH in the hind legs A Press the flat edge of the leg (in which the previous socket was just made) against the machine stop and select a socket on the inside of the part.
6. Make an 8mm socket for the top rail D dorsum at the top of the hind legs A on the inside, pressing the front side of the part against the stop.
7. Select 6mm sockets in the bottom rail WITH backrests for middle board E and side bars F (Fig. 4).
8. Make the same 6mm sockets on the bottom edge of the top crossbar D for middle board E (Fig. 5). Making nests for the side bars F, insert a 4° wedge between the crossbar D and emphasis (step 2).
Now cut out the thorns
1. Make the simple tenon saw shown in the article “Safely and Easily Sawing Tenons.”
2. To cut tenons in three sizes, use the scraps to make three spacers with a thickness of 6, 8 and 10 mm, as well as a spacer whose thickness is equal to the thickness of the saw blade. The width of the spacers is 75-100 mm.
To cut 10 mm tenons on frames G, H, select a spacer of the required thickness for the first cut. Remove it before the second cut.
3. Cut out the front G and lateral N seat drawers (Fig. 7). Holding the appropriate spacers between the fixture and the part with your hand or a clamp (photoG), file at a 90° angle the cheeks of the tenons at the ends of the front G and lateral N tsarg, lower WITH and top D backrest crossbars, as well as on the blank of the middle board and side bars E/F backrests (Fig. 4, 5, 6 And 7).
Note. On the side drawers N Form 90° tenons only on the front end of the pieces.
(Although the backrest top rail tenons should have a final length of 17mm, make them 22mm long at this stage so you don't have to set up your saw specifically for this.)
Tom advises! Having made cuts on the test scraps that form the cheeks of the tenons, remove excess material using a band saw, but leave an allowance of about 6 mm at the shoulders to avoid jamming the trim between the disk and the longitudinal stop of the sawing machine. Check the fit of the test studs to the appropriate sockets. If the tenon is inserted too loosely, stick one or two strips of masking tape onto the spacer and cut out another test tenon.
Using the same settings, but tilting the saw blade at an angle of 7°, press the outer side of the drawer against the jig and cut out the tenon cheeks.
4. Attach a wooden pad to the head of the cross (angular) stop and make it in the lower and upper crossbars C, D, in preparation for the middle board and side bars E/F, as well as in the front drawer G cuts that form the shoulders of the tenons.
5. Tilt the saw blade at an angle of 7° from the vertical and file the cheeks of the oblique tenon with a thickness of 10 mm at the rear end of the side frames N (photo N).
6. Without changing the angle of the saw blade, form the shoulders of the front and rear tenons on the side frames at an angle (photoI, J, TO).
Make the first cut so that the disc barely touches the cheek of the tenon. Using a crowbar and a marking knife, extend the line at an angle of 7° to the edge where you want to make the second shoulder. Finally, place the part on the other side of the disk and cut out the second shoulder according to the marking.
7. Increase the saw blade angle to 8°. Form cheeks and shoulders of 6 mm thick oblique tenons on the lower end of the middle board and side bars E/F just like in 5 steps And 6 (Fig. 6a). Return the saw blade to a vertical position and use longitudinal cuts to separate the side bars F from each edge of the workpiece. Using a jigsaw and chisel, cut a notch in the middle of a wide tenon on both ends of the middle board E (Fig. 6) and add 6mm wide cutouts around the edges (see DIY Tip below).
Make the first cross cut with a jigsaw from one rip cut to the back edge of the other. Then saw off the rest.
Hone your hand tool skills for a precise midplank fit
Making a cutout in the middle of a wide tenon using only machines or power tools is not easy. There is a better solution. Using a band saw or a well-sharpened back saw, make cuts up to the shoulders of the tenon, then use a jigsaw, the narrow blade of which will easily turn in the cut, to remove the excess, leaving a small allowance at the base. Finally, use a chisel to cut the remainder flush with the hangers.
Point the chisel inward at a slight angle. This guarantees the tightness of the joint along the hanger line.
8. Form the upper shoulders of the tenons on the front and side drawers G, N (Fig. 7). Shorten the ends of the top rail tenons D by 5 mm.
9. Dry (without glue) assemble the chair frame, adjusting the tenons of too tight joints using a chisel or file. First, insert the middle board and side timbers into the slots of the top and bottom backrest rails, and then fit the tenons of the rails into the slots of the back legs. Then start adjusting the tenons of the sides to the sockets of the legs. Once you have completed adjusting all connections, separate the parts.
Process all curved contours and narrowings
1. Using a band saw, create curved surfaces on the front and back sides of the top rail D backs and then sand smooth.
With three fingers pressed against the front of the piece, draw a line from the top parallel to the front edge.
2. Glue a second copy of the top crossbar template onto a piece of 6mm hardboard and file along the outline. Using this template, mark the bevel boundaries on the top and back sides of the piece. The marking line on the top side should be parallel to the front rib (photoL). Tilt the band saw table to 27° and cut the bevel along both lines. Sand all curved surfaces smoothly.
3. Mark and band saw the 16° bevels at the ends of the bottom rail C (Fig. 4). Then tilt the saw blade at an angle of 22° and cut the longitudinal bevels. Remove saw marks using a small plane. Using the top rail template, mark an arc on the bottom edge of the bottom rail. Cut out the arc with a bandsaw and sand smooth.
4. Using a band saw, make tapers on the back A and front IN legs (Fig. 1 And 2). Smoothly sand or sharpen the sawn edges.
Sequentially mill chamfers of different widths according to the markings. Then use a small plane and scraper to smooth out the transitions between them.
5. Place marks on the back of the rear legs A at a distance of 178, 470 and 533 mm from the upper ends. Attach an edge cutter for chamfers at an angle of 45° in the router collet and mill successively chamfers of different widths (on both sides of each leg): 6 mm wide from the top to the 533 mm mark, 8 mm wide between the 178 and 533 mm marks, 11 mm wide from 470 mark to last (photo M).
At the 533 mm mark, use a semicircular rasp to round and smooth the chamfer, achieving a smooth rounding.
Note. At the upper end of the leg, the chamfers and the middle flat bevel should be the same width. Do not make the chamfer too wide so that it ends below the shoulder line of the top seat rail.
6. Using a miter plane, make small chamfers around the bottom ends of all legs. A, B. At the upper end of the hind legs A chamfer 3 mm wide at the front and sides (Fig. 1). Then make a 12mm bevel at the back.
7. Finish sand all parts with 220-grit sandpaper using a sanding block.
Tom advises! Before the final sanding step, change all surfaces to raise the pile. This will avoid raising lint when removing wet sponge to remove excess adhesive and you won't have to sand in awkward places around joints.
Move on to assembly and finishing
1. Glue in the middle board tenons E and side bars F into the sockets of the upper and lower crossbars D, C backrests Then glue this assembly to the back legs A. Glue the front drawer G between the front legs IN. After thorough drying, glue in the spikes on the side drawers. N into the sockets of the front and rear legs B, A, fixing the assembled chair frame with clamps.
2. Cut out the front and rear corner braces I, J and install them in place using glue and screws to strengthen the connections between the legs and the drawers and make it easier to install the seat.
3. Apply any finish of your choice. (Tom recommends three coats of Danish oil or any varnish polish.)
4. Make the seat base K and cover it (Fig. 3 And 9). Once you've finished upholstering, attach the seat to the corner braces I, J screws 4.5x50 mm.
Templates
About the author of the project
Tom McLaughlin began carpentry professionally in North Carolina, initially copying classic designs made by famous 18th-century craftsmen. Tom now lives in New Hampshire, where he trains woodworkers in his own workshop - a large three-story mansion surrounded by maples, birches and oaks. He enjoys designing and making new chairs more than anything else. “The challenge of making them as comfortable as possible and looking flawless from all angles sparks a real creative passion in me.” He has designed more than two dozen chairs that have won numerous awards in design competitions.
An important attribute of every fisherman is a folding chair. Or you went on a picnic with friends, in which case a folding chair will also be very useful. It takes up little space, so it is easy to transport in the car. Stores provide a large selection of similar chairs. But why spend extra money when you can make such a chair with your own hands in a short time?!
Here we look at the three most commonly needed types of folding chairs:
- wooden folding stools;
- folding chairs with backrest;
- folding fishing seats.
Wooden folding stools
We will need:
- 4 blocks for legs, each 47cm. in length; 4 cm wide; 2cm thick.
- 4 bars for a seat 32 cm long; 4 cm wide; 2cm thick.
- Seat: 2 bars 35 cm long; 9 cm wide; 2cm thick. Two bars 32 cm long; 6 cm wide; 2cm thick.
- 2 bars of overhead legs 320mm long; 40mm wide; 20mm thick.
- For fasteners, stock up on 6 bolts with a diameter of 6 mm, no longer than 40 mm (including the head!) and short self-tapping screws.
Let's move on to the collection. First, let's make legs for our stool. To do this, make small holes along the diameter of the bolts at the top of the future legs. Make sure that the bolts are screwed in completely and that their heads do not protrude. The axis must be placed as high as possible, otherwise the stool will be unstable.
Using bolts, rigidly connect the upper end parts of the legs with the crossbars, which will be located under the seat. Install two bars on the outer legs, and two on the inner legs.
Now we have two elements that act as hinges. Let's move on to installing the seat. Let's start with wide blocks. The overhang will be 15-20mm.
Let's move on to securing the crossbars; for this, use wide bars. One of them needs to be fixed on the outer legs, one is fixed on the end of the inner legs.
Next, stepping back 10 cm from the bottom of the legs, use self-tapping screws to secure the overhead legs.
After this, we fix the narrow internal blocks, which make it convenient and generally possible to unfold and fold the future folding chair made of wood. The principle is the same as what we used when working with wide blocks.
Now you need to be a little more careful, the height and overall performance of the entire structure depends on this. Within this scheme, the height of our creation can be 35-45 cm. Choose the height that will be convenient for you, and in accordance with this, install the second narrow parts of the seat.
Stepping back from the wide bars, secure the narrow elements of the seat at a distance of 1.5-2 cm. Life hack: if you insert a 2-centimeter square piece of wood between the middle parts, you can increase the height.
And with this, making a folding chair with your own hands can be considered complete. As an additional “accessory”, you can screw a handle to your stool, then it will be easier to carry, especially if you also need to carry tackle and a fishing rod in your hands. Just instead of short bolts connecting the internal crossbars, take the fasteners a little longer, then you can easily attach a handle to it.
Folding chairs with backrest
To make this copy, prepare in advance:
- two bars of legs 74 and 47 cm long, respectively;
- 5-8 flat slats 32cm long;
- 3 bars 43 cm each;
- fastener
Let's move on to the collection. Let's start with making the seat. To do this, mount the slats on the support bars using short self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other.
Let's move on to assembling the frame. Its main components are the protruding legs and back of our wooden masterpiece. We select the part where the back will be and attach slats to it to support the back; in the lower part, one crossbar is enough for greater stability. The rear legs also have crossbars at the top and bottom.
So, we have two elements that need to be fastened together. To do this, use bolts of any convenient diameter, drill through holes in both frames and fasten them together.
We connect the front and back frames of the chair with bolts and nuts.
Advice: do not tighten the nuts too tightly, let the inner frame rotate freely, but not dangle.
You've probably already seen similar photos of a folding chair, and now this convenient and practical piece of furniture will appear in your home.
Folding fishing chair
When fishing, sitting on the cold, sometimes wet ground is not only uncomfortable, but also unhealthy. Professional fishermen often use folding chairs. This is much more convenient and less harmful to your back and overall health. In addition, with such a chair it is convenient to quickly change the fishing location.
Since fishing chairs often get wet, the wooden base of such a chair is inferior to plastic and metal. Therefore, it is better to use plastic or metal pipes.
We will consider the option of assembling from plastic pipes.
We will need:
- plastic pipe 50cm long. - 4 things.
- plastic pipe 35cm long. - 4 things.
- plastic corners
- piece of tarpaulin for sitting
- piece of tarpaulin
- bolts, nuts
Let's move on to the collection. Connect the long tubes with bolts so that you get two identical crosses. Connect the opposite ends of the long tubes to the short ones using corners. This gives us the perfect frame for your new fishing chair. But we still have a piece of tarpaulin left, use it to cover the top of the structure and create a kind of seat.
Tip: Don't over-tighten the bolts or your chair will no longer fold. Let its elements move freely relative to each other.
Using the same instructions, you can make folding chairs for fishing from metal tubes.
That's all! The chair is ready. As you can see, it’s very easy to do everything and old, unnecessary materials that have probably been gathering dust on your balcony or in the garage for a long time will have a use! Good luck in job!
DIY photo of folding chairs
A chair is an integral attribute of the life of a modern person. These pieces of furniture differ in size, configuration, materials and other characteristics. A wooden chair with your own hands will add variety to the interior, significantly reduce material costs and save time searching for the right option in the store. Having a sufficient amount of material and a set of tools, you can carry out installation work without difficulty.
Preparing for work
Beech, pine and oak are used as suitable bases for making a chair. To independently assemble such a structure, you should take into account the type of model, its functionality and stylistic affiliation.
Making a wooden chair with your own hands is not difficult. Most often, a large number of novice craftsmen make an elementary version of the design. This is a structure made of wood with a flat back and a fabric seat.
Before you start work, you need to make a drawing of the future foundation. The necessary parts and blanks must also be prepared. Wooden chairs will be a practical solution that decorates the interior. They will harmonize well with the overall decor of the room, furniture and other attributes of the room. Designs of this type are suitable for rooms decorated in any direction.
This is a classic win-win option that is always in fashion. Wooden chairs go well with a table made of the same material. Combinations of natural wood and glass give good results. Speaking about combining wood with plastic or metal, it should be noted that such combinations are quite complex; the difficulty of selection lies in the clear choice of color, which must certainly be combined.
Folding structures complement small spaces well. The selected model is convenient when receiving guests.
List of necessary tools and materials
A wooden chair naturally requires wood. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the material. There should be no knots or cracks. Beech, pine and oak are often used as foundation species. With the exception of pine, all other species are easy to sand, but the result will be amazing. The materials needed are:
- timber 40x60 mm, 40x40 mm;
- strong fabric for the seat;
- dense foam rubber for the chair;
- boards 10-15 mm thick;
- sandpaper;
- furniture glue;
- screws.
It’s quite possible to prepare the timber yourself. It is enough just to remove the chips from it and make the surface smooth. The surface is processed using coarse-grained sandpaper initially and fine-grained sandpaper later.
Tools used:
- emery cloth;
- stapler for construction purposes;
- fine-tooth saw;
- conductors;
- mallet;
- chisel;
- plane;
- electric jigsaw;
- roulette;
- screwdriver
Detailed chair assembly plan
It is necessary to prepare 2 bars: one for the back, and the other for the front legs. The length of the first will be 80 cm, the second – 44 cm. Holes are made in them for the base; they should be located at the same level. The finished beams are stacked on top of each other. The cuts of the legs must be aligned. The grooves are marked with a pencil. It is very important to make 2 grooves per base. They are made on adjacent legs. The result is a kind of rectangle on legs.
Using a chisel, you need to make holes; shavings and sawdust are removed. The back legs of the chair are cleaned, their edges are carefully planed, making a gradual transition, and brought to an impeccable condition.
Once the legs are made, then the legs and longitudinal slats are made. Both variants of parts – 2 pieces each. For manufacturing, 4 pieces of bars are taken, and the future sizes of the spikes are marked on them. They will correspond to 10-12 mm. Then the spikes are cut out. When carrying out this work, you need to be extremely careful, because the spikes must fit firmly into the recesses. There should be no gaps.
Now do the back. It is best to use edged boards as the material. On the rear supports, grooves are made from the inside that are equal to the thickness and height of the backrest. The back is inserted into these holes. The seat is fixed with screws. To give the chair the required degree of rigidity and ensure ease of fastening, you need to attach small braces.
On the outside, the legs and back are made rounded and then sanded.
The finished chair base is varnished and polished.
After this, the product should dry completely.
You should work with varnish or enamel in a well-ventilated area. However, you can purchase varnish without a persistent odor, protecting yourself from unwanted consequences. Such coatings are made on a water basis. Applying a dark-colored varnish to the base will mask individual unevenness and unevenness of the wood.
To make the seat soft, you need to cut the foam to the desired size and wrap it in the selected thick fabric. The finished fabric base is fixed to the seat with a construction stapler.
Once all parts of the overall structure are dry and polished, you need to assemble the chair, treat the spikes with glue and hammer them into the holes with a mallet. Strikes should be applied carefully so as not to damage the varnish coating. The completion of the work will be screwing the backrest and seat into place. Screws are used as fastening elements.
To secure furniture screws, you need to use a drill designed for such screws. They can be carefully hidden. To do this, take sawdust and PVA glue. A thick mass is made from them, which is applied to the cap and dries. When varnishing the chair, these points are also processed, as a result of which they become almost invisible.
Assembly process of a folding and wicker chair
The wooden chair is lightweight. It is made from 2 boards, a back made of 3 planks, a seat made of a shield and a lower thin plank are fixed on it.
To ensure that the seat is held well in the desired position and the shield is tilted, it is necessary to make spikes. The seating area is held in place by metal pins. You can also make a wicker version of the chair yourself. For this you will need:
- thick straps or braid;
- nails;
- oak timber;
- saw;
- self-tapping screws;
- hammer;
- Danish oil;
- drill;
- emery cloth.
Sequence of work:
- To begin with, the length of the legs is measured on the base of the bars. Then you need to take 4 bars 14 and 18 cm long.
- Recesses are made at the connection points, which must be reinforced in advance.
- To make the wood slats smooth, you need to sand their base using emery cloth. After this, you can begin assembling the wicker structure of the chair. Work should begin with finishing the legs. They are connected using screws.
- Once the chair frame is ready, it can be coated with Danish oil or furniture varnish.
- Then you can weave using belts. Straps made of leather or other material are used as such material. After this you can weave the base.
So, the manufacturing technology is simple. Having understood the principle and methodology of independent production, you can easily build structures for a veranda, cottage, living room, or children's room.
No matter what product it concerns, working with wood is always creative. After all, the material is alive, and it is quite easy to process it. In addition, if it is properly processed, it will serve you for a very long time and with high quality! And in an atmosphere with wooden products there will be comfort and warmth, and everything will be familiar. We suggest you consider how to make a wooden chair with your own hands, which can always be used for a variety of purposes, starting with decorative ones. In fact, this is not a labor-intensive or lengthy process at all. The main thing is to understand which model you prefer and what main functions the product will perform.
To make a good-quality chair, spare no expense, buy wood of the highest quality. Even in this case, it will cost less than buying a finished product from the manufacturer. Beech, pine, and oak are most suitable for these purposes. The frame is made of timber with a section of 40 by 40 and 40 by 60, and the planks and lintels will be made from boards one to one and a half centimeters thick. If you need a chair with both a back and a soft seat, also prepare a sheet of plywood.
Prepare the following tools:
- Jigsaw
- Chisel
- Plane
- Hammer
- Screwdriver
- Sandpaper
- Kiyanku
- Clamps
- Stapler
- Tape measure and triangular ruler
- Carpentry adhesive
- Varnish/paint
- Self-tapping screws
- Staples
How to make a chair out of wood with your own hands? Blueprints. Video
The simplest way to make wooden furniture is a stool, that is, a chair without a back that can have a hard or soft seat. Look at the photos and videos of their production, thanks to which everything will be crystal clear to you.
So, how to make a chair with your own hands? To do this, you need to take four beams, the cross-section of which is 40 by 40, and the length of each is 44 cm. When working with wood, you need to make sure that there are no burrs on it. Sandpaper will help with this. If there are strong roughnesses, apply coarser. If the roughness is not severe, then use fine sandpaper.
You also need to prepare four drawers; the chair seat will rest on these jumpers. The dimensions of the drawers are 2 by 5 by 28 cm. To strengthen the structure, prepare four jumpers measuring 3 by 2 by 28 cm.
It will be great if the seat is made of a solid wide board. If there is no such thing, take the boards and connect them with a “mortise and tenon”.
Make spikes on the legs and drawers (their ends). Accordingly, grooves are also needed on the legs. The tenons and grooves are 2 cm each, the second from 27 cm from the floor at a height.
To check how tightly each part fits together, they should be assembled as if into a single whole, and after that you can glue all the parts together with special wood glue, as the Levsha workshop does in St. Petersburg. Where the drawers are attached, strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws.
You need to screw a self-tapping screw into each leg of the chair from the front side, recessing their heads into the wood, and mask the fastening points with putty and a plastic plug.
As a result, the stool needs to be painted, or simply varnished, this is at your discretion.
Variety of shapes and options for making wooden chairs
If you have a milling machine, you can make a wide variety of shapes and types of chairs.
If you have your own plot, and there are also cut down trees on it, using them, you will make very original logs of wood with soft pads. It’s also very interesting to process the trunk so that it has a back.
You can also use thick, untreated branches to make your own chairs by removing the crust from them and varnishing them. Here it is important to ensure the absence of knots and other protruding particles by opening it with paint and varnish material.
And here’s another option, if you make the most ordinary version of a chair into an ordinary rocking chair. To do this, attach the runners to the legs, and also make armrests.
For a child, the chair must be burr-free and safe - these are the most important factors!
