How to cover the outside walls of a wooden house. How to sheathe the outside of an old wooden house cheaply

You need to approach the issue of cladding a wooden house carefully, having carefully planned and thought through the entire process at the stage of developing a private building project. This priority is due to the fact that not only the presentability of the facade, but also the resistance of the building to various external influences (temperature changes, humidity, wind and harsh solar radiation) will depend on the quality of the finishing.

The modern market of construction and finishing materials is able to offer a wide range of products of various types and price categories. Often a person who has recently decided to furnish his new home has many difficulties associated with the correct choice of cladding for a wooden house. Therefore, it is important to know the basic parameters that finishing materials must comply with.

Selection of finishing material

Modern construction technologies provide us with a fairly large range of finishing materials that meet all the necessary requirements. However, each of these materials has its own characteristics in terms of both the decorative design of the house and its immediate functional characteristics. It should be noted that, due to their specific nature, not all existing materials are suitable for finishing wooden buildings. Let's consider the most optimal cladding options.

Wooden lining

Wood lining allows you to preserve the natural and natural appearance of the house, while significantly improving its external design and functional characteristics. It is a flat board that is easily mounted and joined to adjacent ones in the longitudinal direction using special spikes.

On a note! This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, high strength, and also provides an excellent level of temperature and acoustic insulation.

The main disadvantage of wooden lining is its relative vulnerability to insects and rodents. This problem is partially solved by treating the surface with special protective agents. The second disadvantage of the material is fading, so a house with this finish should be painted approximately every three years.

GOST 8242-88. Profile parts made of wood and wood materials for construction. Technical conditions. File for download.

Prices for wooden lining

Wooden lining

Block house

In fact, a block house is a type of wooden lining. It is made only from coniferous trees. The main difference between this finish is the shape of its elements - this material imitates cylindrical logs. The internal surface of the block house is flat, which simplifies the installation process using the tongue-and-groove technology. Unlike ordinary wooden lining, a block house has better protection against weather conditions and insects. However, it should be noted that the price of this material is significantly higher, which, of course, is its main disadvantage.

finishing the facade of a wooden house with a block house

Block house prices

Block house

Vinyl siding

This material has excellent resistance to high positive temperatures. It practically does not deform and has a low coefficient of thermal expansion. In addition, vinyl siding is easy to maintain, easy to clean, and does not require periodic repainting. The available color range is so wide that anyone can choose a shade to their liking. Vinyl panels can be installed not only using self-tapping screws, but also using regular nails.

Vinyl siding - technical specifications

But even such a functional material has its drawbacks. It is intended for use in countries with temperate and warm climates, so it does not tolerate extreme cold well. The strength of the material is also low; vinyl panels require quite careful handling. In addition, when choosing this type of siding, keep in mind that when exposed to direct sunlight, dark-colored panels can noticeably fade within a couple of years.

Metal siding

This finishing material, in comparison with vinyl, does not have a number of key disadvantages. First of all, it is much more protected from fading in the sun. This allows you to safely use siding in darker colors without the risk of getting a faded facade on the sunny side of the house in two or three years. In addition, even at very low temperatures the metal does not lose its strength and wear resistance.

There are three main disadvantages of metal siding:

• susceptibility to corrosion in case of violation of the outer protective layer;
• vulnerability to impact loads and the possibility of profile deformation;
• high coefficient of thermal conductivity (metal quickly heats up and cools down).

Siding prices

PVC panels

Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are identical in characteristics to vinyl siding, since they represent one of its varieties. However, in terms of creating original design solutions, PVC elements give builders greater opportunities. Such panels allow you to create high-quality imitation of stone, brick and marble surfaces, and are also easily combined with standard vinyl siding, which allows you to give building facades a unique and exclusive look.

Prices for PVC cladding panels

Facing PVC panels

Preparatory work

The main part of the preparation for the process of insulation and cladding of a wooden building consists of sanitizing its walls with the help of special chemicals designed to protect the wood from infection by fungus, harmful insects and rodents. In addition, it is mandatory to lay a special vapor barrier layer between the internal walls and the external thermal insulation layer.

As a rule, it is:

• polyethylene;
• aluminium foil;
• bitumen roofing felt;
• vapor barrier made of special materials.

The most optimal price/quality ratio is polyethylene, since it can significantly reduce the financial costs of covering a house.

Installing a vapor barrier involves maintaining a small air gap between it and the wall of the building. Therefore, if the walls are flat on the outside, before laying the film, a frame should be built on them from slats about 3 centimeters thick, nailing them in increments of about half a meter. After this, special ventilation holes must be made in the slats in all four directions and proceed directly to the installation of the vapor barrier. The film is nailed to the slats or round logs of the wall with nails or a construction stapler with an overlap at intervals of about 15 centimeters. Upon completion of this stage, the joints and placement of fasteners must be sealed with special construction tape.

Selection of thermal insulation material

After successful completion of all preparatory work, you can begin to create a thermal insulation layer of the sheathing. Due to the specificity of a material such as wood, the best choice would be to use mineral wool slabs. However, various options are possible.

Table No. 1. Materials for insulating the facade of a wooden house.

Material	Advantages	Flaws
	- excellent thermal insulation performance; - ease of installation; - protection from pests.	- poor air permeability, which leads to wood rotting; - not fire resistant; - is not an environmentally friendly material.
	- excellent thermal insulation; - resistant to fire; - protected from the influence of microbes and pests.	- vapor-tight, poorly ventilated. - difficult to cut and install.
	- well ventilated; - retains heat perfectly; - easy to install; - environmentally friendly; - resistant to fire.	The ingress of moisture if the installation technology is violated leads to a sharp decrease in insulating properties.

It should be noted that polystyrene foam and penoplex are used extremely rarely for insulating wooden houses, so it is recommended to opt for mineral wool.

Prices for mineral wool

Features of the process of thermal and waterproofing of wooden houses

A wooden frame made of vertically nailed boards is mounted on top of the previously installed vapor barrier layer. It is optimal to use a board 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. The frame elements must be positioned in such a way that the distance between them is 2 centimeters less than the width of the mineral slabs. This will allow for a tighter fit of the insulating material without the use of additional fasteners.

The next stage of covering a wooden house is the installation of a waterproofing film on top of the insulation layer. Pay attention to the correct orientation of the film in relation to the mineral wool blocks: the rough surface should be directed towards the insulation, and the smooth surface should be directed outwards. As at the stage of work on installing a vapor barrier, fastening occurs using a construction stapler with an overlap, followed by gluing the staples and joints with tape.

When the waterproofing is installed, it is necessary to nail another layer of boards on top of the previously created frame, on which the external finishing elements will be placed at the final stage. The recommended wood thickness is 4 cm with a width of 5 cm.

Prices for windproof membranes

Windproof membrane

Carrying out external finishing works

External work is the final stage of finishing a house, which requires special care and a thorough approach. Not only the aesthetics of the facade, but also the functionality of the previously created insulating layers will largely depend on the quality of installation of the external cladding elements.

Installation of block house and wooden lining

The process of securing wooden lining is carried out as follows.

Table No. 2. Cladding the facade with clapboard.

Steps, illustrations	Description of actions
	Having prepared and cut the boards to the required length, they are mounted on the frame. Sheathing should be done in the direction from bottom to top, from the corner of the building.
	The starting board is installed and nailed (or fixed with special fasteners), with the tenon facing down. It must be positioned strictly parallel to the ground, so a level must be used to check the result. If everything is done correctly, you can proceed to the next step. Otherwise, the board must first be leveled.
	The next board is inserted into the groove of the previous one. In order for the boards to fit tightly together, the top one needs to be hammered into the groove of the bottom one using a special wooden hammer.
	After joining the boards, the second one is fixed to the frame in the same way as the first.
	All subsequent boards are attached using a similar algorithm.
	After installation is completed, you need to start decorating the corners of the building. To do this, two boards are vertically attached to them so that one overlaps the other. Window trims are designed in the same way.

Installation of vinyl and metal siding

A general scenario for installing vinyl siding includes:

• installation on the frame of the starting bar;
• installation of corners and H-shaped connecting strips;
• fastening and installation of siding panels;
• installation of the finishing strip and fixation of the final tier.

The starting strip is fixed around the entire perimeter of the building or that part of it that will be sheathed with vinyl. Since the plank will be covered from above by a row of panels, there are no special requirements for it: you can use connections from scraps and even a strip of a different color. The initial stage is the most important, so it is worth approaching it thoroughly, because it will be quite difficult to correct the slightest imbalance in the event of an error.

1. First, a nail is driven in at the corner of the outer frame of the building below and a thread is pulled along the wall, which should be used as a guide in the future. Note that the distance from the ground to the thread should be equal to the width of the starting strip.
2. Next, having secured the thread at the second corner, it is placed in the correct position using a level. The result should be a straight line strictly parallel to the ground.
3. Using chalk or a pencil, draw a straight line, for which the thread is used as a guide. It will mark the place where the starting strip will be fixed.
4. The plank is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

We draw your attention to the fact that you need to check the correct installation of the panels with a level as often as possible. It is advisable to do this before starting the installation of every third row of siding.

Fastening the vertical corner strips must begin before installing the main panels, since it is in them that all rows of siding are installed. When starting this stage of finishing work, you should know some of the features of this process.

1. The corner bar should be located at a height of 0.5-0.7 cm from the ground. This is done so that during thermal expansion the plank does not rest against the foundation and does not become deformed.
2. The corner must be secured with self-tapping screws from top to bottom. Please note that the first fastener is made at the top point of the hole, and all subsequent fasteners are made in the center. This approach makes it possible to ensure that the sheathing material expands only downwards and to the sides.
3. The bottom edge of the vertical corner strip must be cut to the width of the starting strip. The goal, as in previous cases, is the same - to avoid the consequences of expansion of the material when heated.

Final result

The flexibility of the corners of vinyl and metal siding makes it easy to use these materials in the process of finishing obtuse and sharp corners of buildings. To cover an obtuse corner, the profile is pressed down, and when working with an acute corner, it is narrowed.

Installation and fastening of the H-profile, which is used for horizontal joining of sheathing elements, is similar to the process of installing corner strips. In this case, an important rule should be observed: the starting strips must be adjacent to the profile, and not vice versa. In addition, when covering with siding, you can do without the H-profile altogether if you arrange the strips overlapping.

The process of installing rows of siding panels occurs according to the following algorithm.

1. The first strip is inserted into the grooves of the corner or H-profile, after which it is snapped into the starting lock.
2. Fastening to the frame should be done using self-tapping screws exactly in the center of the nail holes. Remember that you cannot screw the siding tightly; you need to leave free space for thermal expansion.
3. All subsequent tiers, except the top one, are mounted in the same way.

At the final stage of wall cladding, the top plank is mounted, after which the distance from it to the lock of the penultimate tier is measured. Next, the finishing panel is bent so that its width corresponds to the measured distance, and inserted into the lock.

The process of external cladding with PVC panels is essentially similar to the installation of siding trim discussed above. It uses an identical system of locks and clutches, which may vary only slightly depending on the manufacturer of materials.

Let's hope that our instructions and tips for finishing wooden houses helped you clarify the understanding of the features of this process and made it easier to implement your plans and creative ideas.

Video - Siding a wooden house

Wood is a durable and beautiful building material that, with proper care, will last for many decades. At the same time, wood is quite an expensive material, especially when it comes to various types of well-dried timber, so the walls are made thinner, and heat loss is reduced with additional insulation and external cladding. We will talk about the requirements for cladding material, and also compare different materials to determine which one is better suited for a wooden house. In addition, we recommend organizing a ventilation system (ventilated facade) for any cladding, because this approach extends the service life of the wood and reduces the requirements for cladding materials. We will try to answer the most important question - what is the best way to sheathe the outside of a wooden house so that it is cheap and beautiful.

Requirements for cladding materials

Any cladding material must meet the following requirements:

• fire resistance;
• resistance to precipitation;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• UV resistance;
• ease of installation;
• low price.

Fire resistance– one of the most important parameters for cladding material (cladding). It is clear that if there is a strong fire near the house, then any material will catch fire, but it should be very difficult to set it on fire with a match and paper, or even pouring gasoline on it. In addition, the cladding should not be afraid of rain or snow, that is, precipitation should not lead to its destruction. Another condition is resistance to temperature changes. If the facing material strongly absorbs water, then when the temperature drops to negative values, the water in the outer layers will freeze and tear the material. UV resistance protects the cladding from discoloration under the influence of sunlight - the more resistant the material, the less it fades over time. Equally important are parameters such as ease of installation and cost of material. After all, the use of difficult-to-install material increases overall costs, because it is necessary to use special technologies or equipment, to which not everyone has access.

Sheathing materials

Here is a list of the most popular materials for cladding wooden houses:

• various thermal panels;
• reinforcing mesh and plaster;
• PVC siding;
• metal siding;
• wood-cellulose siding;
• fiber cement siding and panels;
• fake diamond;
• block house;
• board;
• waterproof OSB (Oriented Strand Board) and plywood.

Thermal panels- the simplest finishing option, because they combine polystyrene or foam insulation and various external finishes. The most popular panels are those with a brick finish. However, to install them, you must first install the bars of the ventilated facade. Plaster with reinforcing mesh can be applied to any hard surface, so it is often used if a wooden house is insulated with foam plastic or highly compressed mineral wool. This finishing scheme is very popular - mesh + glue + bark beetle plaster.

All types of siding are mounted on an insulated ventilated facade with wooden bars or metal profiles. Siding is the simplest method of exterior finishing of a room, the only difference is the cost of materials. The advantage of siding is that you can use both classic rectangular panels and “log-like” panels. Fiber cement panels are used if it is necessary to increase the fire resistance of a house, because this material is ten times more difficult to set on fire than even timber treated with pyrophobic impregnation. After finishing the house with fiber cement boards, the cladding must be painted with waterproof paints. Artificial stone is tried on for finishing a ventilated facade. To install it, the facade must be covered with a hard material, such as fiber cement board, OSB or plywood. Then the artificial stone is glued to the facade, using the same reinforcing mesh as for plaster.

Block house, that is, a board whose outer part imitates a rounded log. Covering a wooden house with a block house allows you to restore its exterior to some extent, demonstrating to everyone the aesthetic taste of the owner and his desire to live in a house made of natural materials. A house covered with a block house must be regularly treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Read about how to choose antiseptics and impregnations in this article (I think it’s called how to choose impregnations or antiseptics, I don’t remember exactly). The advantage of a block house over other materials is its very high vapor permeability, therefore the requirements for façade ventilation are much lower. Another wood material is carriage board. It is cheaper than a block house and creates a more primitive exterior of the house, but has all the performance qualities of a block house.

OSB and plywood used in three cases:

• when it is necessary to create a hard, rigid surface for applying plaster;
• for cladding outbuildings;
• for cladding for painting.

Waterproof plywood and OSB have all the disadvantages and advantages of boards and block houses, however, they are much cheaper. Therefore, they are used for cladding inexpensive houses and outbuildings where there are no high requirements for the exterior.

Cost of finishing materials for cladding a wooden house

Below we have provided average cost data posted on the websites of stores selling finishing materials:

1. Russian-made thermal panels, 60–80 mm thick, panel size 100x68 cm (length and width), cost per panel 1000–2300 rubles, cost per m² 1600–3400 rubles.
2. Reinforcing mesh for plaster (glue + bark beetle plaster) will cost 20–50 rubles per m² of mesh. The cost of one bag of dry plaster (20 kg) is 150–300 rubles, with a consumption rate of 2–4 kg m². That is, one bag is enough for 5–10 square meters. The cost of one bag of bark beetle plaster (20–25 kg) is 150–500 rubles, with a consumption rate of 3–6 kg per m². That is, one bag is enough for 3–8 m².
3. PVC siding - price per m² excluding the cost of lathing is 100–300 rubles.
4. Metal siding - price per m² excluding the cost of sheathing is 200–700 rubles.
5. Wood-cellulose siding - price per m² excluding the cost of lathing is 60–200 rubles.
6. Fiber cement siding and panels – price per m² is 1–3 thousand rubles.
7. Artificial stone - price per m² 600–3000 rubles.
8. Block house made of dry boards - price per m² 200–600 rubles.
9. Boards (lining) made of coniferous and deciduous wood 150–250 rubles per m², from valuable wood 300–700 rubles per m².
10. Moisture-resistant plywood and OSB 12–16 mm thick price per m² 150–250 rubles.

Conclusion

The correct choice of material for finishing a wooden house will allow you to achieve the desired effect at minimal cost. After all, the cladding is not only a decorative element, but also protects the insulation and walls from external influences. By choosing one or another coating, you can dramatically change the exterior of the house, both emphasizing that it is made of wood and harmoniously coordinating it with other buildings in the area.

When developing a project for a private building, you must immediately decide what to cover the outside of the house with. After all, it is the correct finishing of the facade that will make the house not only presentable, but also warm, so you need to carefully select materials for its insulation and decorative design. Without good finishing, the house will look ugly and untidy, and will not be protected from destructive external influences, such as moisture, active solar radiation, wind, thermal changes, etc..

The modern construction market offers a very large assortment of insulating and decorative materials, from which you can choose the ones that suit every taste and financial capabilities.

Requirements for façade cladding materials

To prevent dampness from appearing in the house, to be comfortable and warm, and to make the house look aesthetically pleasing from the outside, cladding materials must meet certain requirements.

Based on them, you should choose the right option. So, the cladding must have the following qualities:

• have low thermal conductivity to retain heat inside the house;
• have vapor permeability - condensation should not form inside the insulation layers;
• be moisture resistant - do not absorb or retain moisture inside the material;
• have absolute or increased heat resistance - the sheathing must withstand high temperatures and not deform or ignite under their influence;
• be inert to chemical influences - do not change its characteristics when similar substances come into contact with it;
• be protected from the influence of microorganisms, not serve as a breeding ground for insects and rodents;
• do not decompose and do not lose physical properties when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

In order for the cladding to be effective in all matters, it is necessary not only to reliably attach decorative material to the walls, but, following technology, to cover them with a whole system of layers, each of which will play its role.

There are two main systems for insulating a house, and the choice will depend on what material is planned to be used for decorative finishing and on the insulation used. In one of their systems, the insulation is attached directly to the wall using glue, in the other - along the created sheathing.

Plastering a house with plaster

When using insulating boards that have a sufficiently high density, for example, polystyrene foam, fiber cement or tightly compressed glass wool in mats, which will later be covered with plaster on top, wall sheathing is not necessary.

Most often, this principle is applicable on smooth brick or reinforced concrete walls. In this case, the plating is done as follows:

• on the wall of the house, at the height at which Insulation will be installed, a metal holder profile will be fixed, selected according to the thickness of the selected insulation boards. The profile is leveled to a perfectly flat horizontal level;
• the walls are cleaned of dust and, before applying glue, moistened with water for better adhesion;
• further on insulation boards pre-diluted special glue is applied;

• the first row of slabs is installed on a metal profile and pressed firmly against the wall;
• the next row is installed on the first according to the brickwork system - in a dressing;
• having secured two or three rows of slabs with glue, each of them is additionally secured with dowel fungi;
• further work continues according to the same system to the very top. Then the insulation is installed on other walls in the same way;
• When the layer of glue under the insulation has dried, it is necessary to glue all corners of the building, window and door slopes with corners with reinforcing mesh. They are fixed with the same glue, its excess is removed with a spatula;

• after the corners have dried, the reinforcing serpyanka mesh must be secured to the entire insulated surface;
• The surface on which the serpyanka sheet will be glued is coated with a thin layer of glue. A reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of it, smoothed with a spatula, and excess glue is also removed;
• when the surface dries well, it needs to be covered with polymer plaster, a layer of 2-3 mm;
• The final stage will be the application of decorative plaster, selected in the appropriate design style of the building.

Plaster prices

Plasters

Sheathing a house using sheathing

An insulating facade system using lathing can be installed in one or two layers. The position of the frame bars will depend on how you plan to install the decorative cladding.

• To install the sheathing correctly, it is better to first mark the wall. In this case, you need to take into account the width of the insulation mats.
• Then bars or metal profiles are mounted on the surface of the walls.
• If you are sheathing a wooden wall, then before laying insulation, you should attach a vapor barrier film to the entire surface of the walls.
• Next, insulation mats are laid between the sheathing bars. If necessary, they are secured to the wall with mushroom anchors.

• Having installed the insulating layer, they stretch it on top superdiffusion membrane, securing it to the sheathing bars with construction staples stapler.
• Next, you can install decorative cladding material.

Another option for installing the sheathing is done a little differently.

• Markings are also made on the wall and hangers are fixed along it at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other. Their edge holders should protrude from the wall to the thickness of the insulation and wooden blocks that will be attached to them.

• These elements will be fastening not only for the bars, but also for the installed insulation.
• Insulation mats are marked and cut in those places where they will be placed on metal elements.
• Then the insulation is mounted on the wall, and a diffuse membrane is stretched and secured on top of it.
• Next, wooden sheathing bars are installed in the hangers, they press the insulation tightly against the wall and secure them in metal holders with self-tapping screws.
• Decorative sheathing material is also installed on top of this system, using the installed sheathing bars as guides.

Types of decorative cladding

Modern materials make it possible to create an imitation of brickwork on a wooden wall, or vice versa - to transform a brick house into a wooden frame. For this, claddings such as siding made from different materials, wooden lining, block house, thermal panels, ceramic or stone tiles and others are used. It is necessary to find out in advance how each of the skins is attached and what it looks like in the end - this will largely determine which insulation system to choose for it.

Clinker thermal panels

Clinker thermal panels are one of the modern materials for insulation and decoration of facades.

They have appeared on the construction market relatively recently, and have already gained wide popularity. This is not at all surprising, since they have many positive qualities.

• One of the main advantages is that this material performs two functions at once: insulation and decorative cladding.
• The panels perfectly imitate brickwork and are produced in a variety of colors, so they can be matched to any style and taste.
• They give the surface absolute neatness and aesthetics.
• This type of cladding is convenient and relatively easy to install on the wall.
• Thermal panels can be used to cover any surface - wood or brick.
• The light weight of the panels makes it possible to do without additional strengthening of the foundation of the old building.
• Since the materials have a low percentage of water absorption, the façade can be washed from sludge with water under high pressure.
• The tightness of the panels on the wall does not allow cold air to penetrate to the wall of the house.

Thermal panels have a polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam base onto which clinker tiles are pressed. The warm substrate increases the thermal insulation qualities of the panels by two to four times, and creates an optimal vapor permeable microclimate for the walls, which allows you to preserve the material from which the house is built for a longer period.

The structure of the panels is a layer of insulation and decorative tiles “like brick”

• Clinker tiles protect the insulation base from external factors such as wind, precipitation, and direct solar ultraviolet rays.
• Clinker panels are very securely attached to the wall and can last 45-60 years without repair work, without losing their original appearance.
• The panels are assembled into a single plane using existing locking joints (tongues and grooves), which ensures tight adhesion.

• Straight, wall thermal panels and corner elements for them are produced, which facilitate the task of decorating the corners of the building, making them absolutely neat, not different from the general appearance of the walls.

• Thermal panels are reinforced with plastic guides that prevent deformation and mechanical stress of the facing material.

Installation of thermal panels

• Before you begin installing the panels on the wall, it is necessary to inspect it for various bulges, significant depressions and chips, which can greatly impede quick installation. Therefore, it is necessary to bring the surface of the walls to a perfectly smooth state.

• When installing panels on surfaces that have large irregularities, for example, the walls of a log house, they are covered with a lathing made of wooden beams.

• In this case, it is very important to correctly calculate the location of the sheathing elements so that the fastening of the panels is successful. Each of the panels to be fixed must have at least three sheathing bars to create the necessary rigidity of the sheathing.

The diagram clearly shows the places of fastening to the wall or sheathing and the dimensions of the panel itself and the protruding locking ridges.

• After the wall surface is completely covered, the seams between the individual tiles are filled with a special grout. This completely isolates the insulation from external influences and gives the wall design the look of natural brickwork.

Video: facing a house with clinker thermal panels

Prices for thermal panels

Thermal panels

Covering a house with siding

Another fairly popular way to transform a facade is. It is produced in various forms, imitating wooden and stone wall coverings.

It is produced from different materials using two technological processes - monoextrusion or coextrusion. The first of them is the molding of siding panels from a homogeneous mass, and second - manufacturing two-layer elements. The top layer of material is protective from external influences, and the bottom is the basis of the panel.

Truly high-quality siding has a whole range of advantages:

• it is resistant to mechanical stress, such as shocks and scratches, while at the same time having good elasticity;
• The material is fire-safe and resistant to thermal extremes. The high performance qualities of the material allow it to be used in various climatic conditions;
• siding is not susceptible to the formation of colonies of microorganisms or damage by insects;
• high-quality material is not seriously affected by ultraviolet rays, so it does not lose its original appearance for many years. The service life of siding is about ten years;
• the panels provide reliable protection for the building walls from wind and precipitation;
• the material does not require special care and can be easily tidied up with a stream of water under high pressure. The surface itself does not absorb dirt;
• SP siding is special to give any facade an aesthetic appearance. Numerous shades and the possibility of combining them open up great possibilities for design solutions;
• the material is non-toxic and therefore harmless to human health;
• In addition, compared to other materials, siding is quite easy to install and affordable.

Types of facade siding

Saydi ng For cladding facades, they are made from vinyl, aluminum, thin steel, cement-cellulose mass and based on wood raw materials.

• Aluminum and steel siding is mainly used in industrial facilities, but is also used for finishing private homes. The material is produced in a variety of colors, so it will perfectly decorate any facade of the house.

• The facing material from wood fibers and their connecting components is made by pressing raw materials under high pressure and then coated with protective paints. This siding is also well suited for cladding the facades of private houses.

Fiber cement siding - great for covering plinths

• A cement-cellulose version of the cladding material is most often used for cladding the basement sections of a building.

The most common is vinyl siding

• The most popular and affordable is vinyl siding. It is widely used for finishing private buildings, and it justifies itself with a long-term operational period and other positive qualities. Since this material is purchased and used more often than others, it is worth considering in more detail.

Vinyl siding

This type of siding is produced in the form of stacked panels-strips that have a perforated edge through which they are attached using nails or self-tapping screws. In addition, the strips have a latch lock for connecting adjacent panels to each other.

The material is available in the form of one, two or three “boards”, which simplifies and speeds up the installation of siding on the wall.

The pattern of the siding can also be different. Often this is the usual “lining”, but other types are rapidly gaining popularity, for example, “ship plank” or “herringbone”. The surface of the material can imitate the texture and color scheme of different materials. The panels can be attached in a horizontal or vertical position, but for everything to go well, you need to foresee the location of the sheathing bars in advance.

At the production stage, vinyl siding is often coated with paint containing titanium dioxide, which keeps the surface in its original condition for many years and gives any color a pastel softness. At the same time, you need to know that bright shades of the material indicate the absence of this component, so such coatings lose their original color much faster.

Prices for the siding range

Installation of siding panels

Installation work for installing siding horizontally begins from the bottom of the house. Adjacent panels are overlapped and secured with a lock. The panel is secured to the sheathing with nails along the top, through special holes.

When installing, you should strive to minimize the number of vertical joints. If the dimensions of the wall do not allow this (longer than the standard dimensions of the panels), use a special joining profile, installing it strictly vertically from the bottom to the top of the wall.

During the installation of siding on the walls, additional decorative elements are installed, which will give the facade completeness - external and internal corners, soffits, ebbs, window and door slopes, etc.

Video: installation of facade siding

Block house

The block house is made of natural wood and is a board with a semicircular surface. A house sheathed with this material imitates a log house.

On the flat side of the block house board there are two longitudinal grooves, which are designed to relieve stress from the load and improve ventilation. In addition, for convenient installation, there is a groove on the lower edge of the panel, and a tenon on the upper edge.

Block house panels are available in several standard sizes - from 3 to 6 m in length, from 20 to 45 mm thick and from 99 to 220 mm wide.

For the manufacture of this cladding material, mainly coniferous species are used, such as pine, spruce, larch. With proper processing and quality raw materials, this wood will serve for many years as facade cladding. Wood is naturally endowed with excellent qualities, which man has skillfully used to build and decorate homes.

What are the main advantages of this facade material:

— ecological purity characteristic of natural wood;

- lightness and strength;

— resistance to high and low temperatures;

— ease of installation;

- the ability to “breathe” - this creates a special comfortable microclimate in the house;

- affordable price compared to solid logs.

The material is easily attached to the sheathing of the insulation system and is perfect for finishing not only facades, but also interior walls.

Block house prices

Block house

Installation of a block house

• The first thing that needs to be done is to adapt the wood to the conditions in which it will be attached to the facade. To do this, the panels of the block house are laid out on a prepared base, for example, spread polyethylene, and left for a day.
• Each panel should then be completely covered with the first layer of antiseptic.
• After it dries, as a rule, all the flaws of the material appear, such as roughness and unevenness. They must be removed using sandpaper.
• A second layer of antiseptic must be applied to the leveled surface. There are similar products on sale that already contain dyes - they will help protect the wood from exposure to ultraviolet rays. If such processing of the material is used, then it no longer requires further painting or varnishing.
• The block house is attached to the sheathing, starting from the bottom of the house wall. The first panel is laid with the tongue facing upward - this is done so that during precipitation, water does not get into the groove of the panel.

• In places where you have to screw the board right through, the self-tapping screw should be recessed and disguised. As a composition for covering such holes, you can use wood glue mixed with fine sawdust. You can close the hole with a dowel, the cut of which is leveled and tinted to match the color of the panel.
• Installation continues using the tongue-and-groove system along the entire plane of the wall. The material is secured with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.

• At the corners, the panels are joined through installed corner boards or through a cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
• If it is necessary to lengthen the panel, two of its segments are connected with a block of the same width as the boards themselves. It is secured on the reverse side, and then the joint is sealed with the mentioned mixture of glue and sawdust.

Video: cladding the facade with a block house

In truth, a wooden house is endowed with a special specific atmosphere, which has a beneficial effect on the feeling of comfort of all household members and guests, because even its walls can breathe as if “alive”. But such pleasure also requires special care, in particular high-quality finishing of external walls, which should perform not only decorative, but also a combination of heat-insulating and protective functions. To perform this kind of task, there is a whole technology for cladding a wooden house, which this article will discuss.

First of all, it is necessary to remember that all work related to finishing a wooden house can only be carried out after a certain time has passed after its construction. This is due to the shrinkage of the house, the period of which depends on the wood of the constructed structure. So, for a house made from wild felled trees, cladding can be done no earlier than 2 years. For houses made of timber, the shrinkage period ranges from 6 months to 1 year. The only exception is glued and profiled timber, houses from which can be finished almost immediately.

Very often, owners of wooden houses, in which residence is seasonal, generally refuse to sheath the house. And this is, in principle, correct, since wood, in the case of high-quality processing, is beautiful in itself, and accordingly it simply does not make sense to insulate this kind of house. In all other cases, covering the house is advisable and will not only give it a well-groomed and beautiful appearance for many years, but also protect the tree from negative environmental impacts. The technology of cladding a wooden house can be divided into the following stages:

Insulation of the house and subsequent finishing work are usually carried out in the summer. Sheathing a house can be done with your own hands without resorting to the help of professionals, since there are no particular difficulties in this process. You just need to select all the materials correctly and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions for each block of work, which are described in detail below.

Preparatory work and installation of vapor barrier

Preparatory work consists of treating the wooden walls of the house with special emulsions that prevent the infection and spread of various fungi and harmful insects. Such procedures are necessary, first of all, because after applying all layers of insulation and finishing, subsequent access to the walls will be closed, so it is very important keep safe and preservation of the tree.

In order to maintain natural air circulation in the walls of a wooden house, a vapor barrier layer is installed, which can be polyethylene film, aluminum foil, bitumen roofing felt and a special vapor barrier. As a rule, the first option is used for a wooden house, since it combines an acceptable cost and the fulfillment of all the tasks assigned to such a material. Please note that between the walls and such a layer there must be certain free space. Therefore, if the house is built from flat logs, and not from round ones, it is necessary to build a frame from slats, 2-3 cm thick, which are nailed to the walls in a vertical position at a distance of 40-50 cm and install film on them.

The vapor barrier layer is laid according to the following algorithm:

Features of thermal and waterproofing of a wooden house

Before you start insulating your house, you need to select a suitable heat insulator and calculate its required quantity. Considering the characteristics of a material such as wood, the choice of suitable insulation is quite small and comes down to almost one most rational option. For the purpose of a more detailed visual perception, we present to your attention several types of heat insulator for a wooden house:

1. Foam boards. This material has high heat retention and sound insulation properties. Quite easy to install and not susceptible to various pests. Despite all the advantages, many experts consider it a very serious mistake to use polystyrene foam as insulation for a wooden house. This is due to the inability to allow air to pass through, which over time can cause wood to rot. In addition, it is not fire resistant and not environmentally friendly, which is also not entirely suitable for such a natural material as wood;
2. Penoplex. This is a relatively new material that is made by extrusion. It has a very high level of thermal insulation, is fire resistant, and is not susceptible to the spread of bacteria and fungi. But penoplex has the same disadvantage as the previous material, namely, it is vapor-tight and, moreover, difficult to cut and install.
3. Mineral wool. The most commonly used material for external insulation of a wooden house. Air flows pass well through the insulation, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the tree. Quite easy to install and adjustable. Mineral wool is environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. The disadvantage is that the slightest ingress of moisture due to a violation of the laying technology of this material can lead to the loss of all thermal insulation properties throughout the year.

Based on the above, the most acceptable option for insulating a wooden house is mineral wool, for installation of which the tiled form is best suited.

On an already installed vapor barrier layer it is necessary install the frame system, into which mineral wool slabs will be installed. This will require vertically nailed wooden boards (thickness and width approximately 50 and 100 mm, respectively), the distance between which is 2-3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab. Thus, the heat insulator will fit tightly to the base without any additional fasteners. Mineral wool is very easy to install, and inserting the slabs into the frame will not be difficult. If desired, you can use two layers of insulation. In this case, the second level of heat insulation must be installed at the joints of the slabs of the first layer.

After the entire frame is filled with insulation, lay special waterproofing film. It is worth paying attention to the correct location of this material in relation to the mineral wool. The uneven rough side must be adjacent to the heat insulator, and the smooth side must face outward. The film is attached in the same way as the vapor barrier layer using a stapler to the frame with an overlap, and all joints and staples are sealed with self-adhesive tape. Boards are nailed onto the existing frame system (width - 50 mm, height - 40 mm). This sheathing will perform two functions. Firstly, this creates additional space for air circulation, and secondly, such a system will serve as a frame for finishing the house.

Options for exterior finishing of a wooden house

The choice of finishing material depends entirely on the taste preferences of the owner of the house and the aesthetic goals pursued. There are two ways to move forward. The first is to preserve the appearance of a real wooden house and give it a well-groomed appearance. The second implies more modern external finishing solutions, both color and texture, which will not be related to wood in any way. So, let's look at the most popular ways to give a particular appearance to a house:

There are many more different finishing materials, but as practice shows, the options described above are the most suitable for cladding a wooden house. The main thing is to decide whether you want to maintain the wooden appearance of the tree or bring in something new and interesting. We hope that our tips and recommendations for carrying out all stages of work on cladding a wooden house will help you in this difficult, but at the same time enjoyable task.

Video instructions for cladding a wooden house