Private house made of aerated concrete blocks. Do-it-yourself aerated block house

Building a house from aerated concrete (partially with your own hands)




Last March 2012, just before the onset of warm weather, I bought myself 25 beautiful acres of land in the Chekhov district. Naturally, with the goal of building a small family nest. And then things started spinning and things started to take off.

The plans were to build a house for the season, i.e. before the onset of cold weather, for which the Nth amount of money was accumulated, and the rest was planned to be taken from the bank as collateral for this very plot. But these plans were not destined to come true, because the category of land to which our site belonged was “Undefined”, and this meant that in fact nothing could be built on the land, or rather, it is possible to build, but then it cannot be formalized and the bank will not give money for it credit.

And from May to September, that is, 5 long months, the process of transferring my site to “Land of Settlements” lasted. I still can’t understand why this is taking so long... In short:
1. First I had to get a certificate from the village administration. New life that my site really is within the boundaries of the village of Kryukovo - 10 days.
2. With this certificate to the Administration of the Chekhov District. Preparation of an order for the preparation of a resolution on the transfer of land to another category - 2 months
3. Preparation and issuance of a resolution on the transfer of land to another category - 1 month
4. Transfer of all documents to the registration chamber and issuance of a new land plot passport - 1 month
5. Issuance of a new Land Certificate - 1 month.
Something like that.

While the documents were being prepared, construction practically did not move, but something was still done.

1. First, I decided to take a topographical survey. Of course, we could have waited with it, but then in March-April I still thought that I would build in the summer and tried to speed up the designer who needed it for the house project.



2. This is what the site looked like at the end of April. What pleased me was the complete absence of water. The explanation for this is very simple: the site is at a slope of 1.5 meters and the water stupidly goes towards the river. That is, already in April it was possible to walk on the ground in sneakers and not get wet at all, although there was still mud in other places.



3. Well, literally after 1.5 weeks everything was already green. During this period, a strategic decision was made. Save the birch trees growing in the center of the plot. It was not possible to do this on site because this is where the house should be located, so I decided to replant them along the line of the future fence and thereby separate the site from the asphalt road.



4. By June, when it was already known for sure that the start of construction would be postponed until at least the end of August, in order to lift one’s spirits and in order to finally locate the house on the site, it was decided to fence off the site. For now, of course, it’s mostly virtual, because putting up a full-fledged fence would be at least impractical, considering how many pieces of heavy equipment had to drive through the site.
To begin with, we decided to set up the corners and, stretching a thread between them, make holes in the ground for future fence posts. For these purposes, a gas drill was rented for 2000 rubles/day. Of course, they find it interesting to work, but their hands dry up after a couple of hours, and it becomes more and more difficult to force themselves to continue.

This work was also partially done in vain, since in the future, when excavating a pit under a very large part of these pits under the pillars, they were filled back with soil...



5. During the period of construction stagnation, three very important things were accomplished.
1. Geological surveys were carried out. Many people dissuaded me from doing this unnecessary and expensive business, but under pressure from the designer I decided to do it. What do they include? At the site of the three corners of the future house, three 12-meter-deep wells are drilled in order to do a soil analysis, see how wet it is underground and subsequently design the foundation. What is the result? Who the hell knows. As a result, they gave me a whole Talmud with graphs, figures and tables, which I handed over to the designer and he designed the foundation taking these into account. We can say for sure that limestone begins at 2 m and not a drop of water at 12 m. It is perfectly.

2. A water well was drilled. The well was drilled into limestone and it turned out to be 23 m deep. At least we managed to save money here. The most important thing is that you can constantly hear bubbling from the well, you actually hit some source and the water is very clean and constant. At first this was a little alarming (they thought they had drilled incorrectly and there was a cut in the pipe where water from the upper layers gets in), but then they calmed down, the water was sand-free, clean and odorless. By the way, there is a holy spring nearby and I think we have the same water.

3. Connected the electricity. 15 kW will obviously not hurt during future construction.





Another incident arose regarding water. For a long time they called me from some Chekhov company and wanted to force me to register a well for 12,000 rubles! At first I almost fell for it, but then I read the Internet, the laws and realized that this was pure scam. There is no such thing as registering a well, as it turns out. Here's how. There is licensing, but no registration. They called me for a very long time, asked me to come to the office to talk and even threatened to come with bailiffs and seal the well. I made excuses for a long time and sent them, saying that I was waiting for them at the station, but no one ever arrived, and then the calls stopped, once again confirming that it was pure scam.

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   6. By the end of September, all the formalities on the documents were finally settled, the money was received from the bank and construction began. To begin with, workers used an excavator to dig a pit for the future basement floor. At its bottom they made a sandy base, and on it a concrete pad for a foundation made of FBS blocks. For the concrete pad, we had to tie the reinforcement naturally.

   

   7. FBS blocks are laid in two rows
   
   

   2 rows everywhere except where the door and garage door are. If in front the foundation will go more than 2 m underground, then in the back it will be a little more than a meter. This is due to the slope of the site. In order to prevent the ground from freezing at the back of the house, it will be carefully insulated with 100mm polystyrene foam and, according to calculations, this should help.
   
   

   After installing the foundation blocks, soil is backfilled inside the base to the level of the middle of the bottom row of blocks. That is, approximately 60cm.
   
   

   The next step was the construction of formwork for the reinforced belt and non-multiple places for the FBS blocks.

   

   

   When pouring multiple parts of the blocks, the main thing is not to forget to leave the pipes for sewerage and water, so as not to hollow them out later.
   
   

   The drive to the site turned into a mess during the first 3 weeks of work...
   
   

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   8. After the concrete in the reinforced belt had hardened, it was possible to begin the construction of the basement walls. The blocks for the plinth were chosen the same as for the walls of the entire house, Ytong 625-375-250, only with a density of D500. They are colder. but at the same time more durable. For the base, that’s it, but for the walls of the house I will use density D400. According to tests, blocks with a thickness of 375 mm (plus plaster on both sides of the wall) and with a density of D400 are completely suitable for our climate zone.
   
   

   Slabs were immediately purchased to cover the basement. The task for at least 2012 was precisely the base and its ceiling, consisting mostly of slabs and a monolithic section in the bay window area.
   
   

   

   Of course, I also really wanted to do waterproofing, insulate the walls of the basement and the ground, as well as fill the foundation pit and make formwork, but this was not destined to come true and had to be left until the spring of 2013. It’s a pity, but not fatal.
   
   

   9. By the beginning of December 2012, everything planned for 2012 was completed and the base entered the winter in this form:
   
   

   I was really looking forward to the warmth and the snow melting so I could continue this exciting activity. Since 2013, I decided to build a house with my own hands without hiring hired force, if you don’t count relatives who expressed a desire to help
   
   

   The minimum task for 2013 is the construction of a frame with windows and doors. The goal is a maximum of a house fully connected to communications with the ability to make repairs in the winter.

   

   View from the future bedroom
   
   

   To be continued!

   Last edited by moderator: 11/21/17

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   By mid-April, materials for laying the walls of the first and second floors of our house were ordered. From May 1, work will begin. In the meantime, there is time to sum up the financial results of the past stage and they are not encouraging. I already understand that if it were possible to start all over again, I would 100% refuse the base. It's very expensive. But given the lack of the ability to turn on reverse, all that remains is to look for the positive aspects, and, in fairness, there are also quite a few of them:
   1. All engineering equipment for servicing the house and connecting communications is located on the technical floor and does not take up space directly in the house.
   2. A 46-square-meter garage is, of course, the dream of any car enthusiast. It can really fit up to 3 cars.
   3. A workshop of 20 square meters where you can equip your little man’s nest, install machines, workbenches.
   4. And finally, the base is a place where all the trash can be stored, from old things to various sports paraphernalia. Some kind of attic, but from below.

   Also, finally, during this period, a miracle happened. The designer and the chief designer (my wife) and I finally approved the layout of our house. Phew. (But I feel like she’ll change)
   So the base:
   
   

   1st floor:
   
   

   Attic:
   
   
   

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   Building a house on your own is hellish work. Just hellish. During the first 8 days spent at the construction site, I was so exhausted that I simply had no strength... But first things first.

   On April 30, when everyone was still serving their office duties, I had already arrived at the construction site, since the first batch of YTONG blocks was supposed to arrive on that day. From this day on, we can say that an epic began called “Building a house with your own hands.” I came to this decision for three equal reasons:
   1) I want to build a house with my own hands, and desire is the most important thing
   2) I didn’t like how the hired builders built the basement
   3) I don’t have enough money to pay people whose quality of work I don’t like, and even if I did...

   The car with the blocks arrived exactly on schedule at 8 am. Thanks to the C-shaped grip instead of chucks and the professionalism of the driver, unloading is extremely accurate and fast.
   
   

   Other joyful events were that the lock on the cabin and the pump in the well were in the same condition in which they were left in the fall, i.e. in the same place.
   
   

   While worrying about unloading the car, at first I did not notice the most important and unpleasant thing. I lost a corner. A very unpleasant crack appeared.

   
   
   I see the reasons for what happened as follows:
   Firstly, the most important thing was that sand was not backfilled at least to the level of the foundation slab, i.e. only 30 cm. In the spring, sand washed out from under the slab and it disappeared
   Secondly, her departure was accelerated by a pile of rubble right on the corner. Its weight is all 3 tons and this is very heavy with an uneven load...

   Provided that the wall is not load-bearing and it will not increase, this is not critical. But this fact made significant changes to the work plan. Initially, I thought of not doing the backfill, leaving it for later, but now raising the walls without digging the foundation would be stupid, so I had to do the backfill at a waltz pace. But even here, not everything is so simple, first of all it was necessary to waterproof and insulate the base. At the same time, it was necessary to carry out work on installing an armored belt at the floor level of the first floor, thereby connecting the walls to each other and to the slabs. Go.

   1. In order to understand whether the crack is growing, I bought plaster and made beacons that should show movement or its absence
   
   

   2. The first stage of waterproofing is coating with bitumen primer TechnoNIKOL No. 1, for good adhesion of the weld-on roll waterproofing. My 115m2 deposition surface took a little over two buckets of primer and almost two full days of solo work.

   
   

   
   

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   On the second day, a team of father and father-in-law arrived. Their task was for this day while I finish applying the primer to make the corners of the crown. Here I did not look for easy ways. It would be possible to simply make formwork and pour an armored belt along the height of the slabs. But in this case, the floor on the first floor will be quite cold. I decided to do this: place 50mm blocks along the edge, then 50mm insulation. They will serve as formwork for the future warm armored belt. Everything would seem simple if not for one thing: the slab is 22cm high and the block is 25cm. I had to saw and this greatly slowed down the process, but in half a day the corners were shaped, and I, in turn, applied primer to the entire surface of the foundation
   
   

   
   

   
   

   On May 2, my friend arrived to help with fusing the waterproofing. This is not a very tricky thing, but it is quite tedious. We cut the sheets 2 meters long and fused vertically over the entire surface with an overlap of 10 cm

   
   

   
   

   The plans were to waterproof the entire house in one day, but they did not come true. My 115m2 took 1.5 days of work and two cylinders of gas.
   At the same time, at the floor level of the first floor, the second team was making the so-called formwork from 50 blocks for the future armored belt. The 50th blocks are extremely unstable due to the very small contact surface, but it turned out quite tolerably. The main thing is that they are not squeezed out with concrete later.
   
   

   
   

   And the marks still hold, which is good news

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   The next day, May 3, the main task was to finish the waterproofing. At the same time, 48 m3 of sand was ordered to fill the pit at the level of the foundation slab and a tractor was called in so as not to be done manually. Everything was spinning and spinning at such a pace that one could say thank you to the crack for the swing. Without her, this probably wouldn't have happened.
   
   

   
   

   The target for at least May 3 was completed. Waterproofing has been completed and sand has been poured. The main thing now was to spill it and morning it. The pouring rain helped with this (just in time), charging it for the whole night and taking a gasoline tamper the next day (what would I do without it)

   
   

   Also on this day, during breaks between rain, they began gluing insulation to the walls of the basement, to the FBS part of them
   
   

   May 5, due to the rain, accumulated fatigue and Easter, the day turned out to be a mess. The first thing we did was grill shish kebab in the garage and add insulation. By the way, the insulation is usually attached to the fungi, but in my case this would violate the waterproofing, so I had to use TechnoNIKOL No. 22 adhesive mastic. The insulation adheres to it extremely poorly, mainly due to the uneven surface, but somehow we managed to attach it to the wall.

   
   

   Well, at the end of the day we learned a little how to knit reinforcement. Everything didn’t work out the first time, of course, but in the end it was quite nice and smooth

   
   

   The entire day of May 6 was dedicated to the reinforcement frame. In general, the reinforcing belt is the hardest thing I’ve done so far... Maybe there will be more!
   At the end of the day it started to work out quite quickly and firmly, the tedium was killing me, the difficulty was added by the fact that the reinforcement was bent for transportation in a gazelle and it was not even.
   
   

   
   
   

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   The main thing in preparing the reinforcement frame is even “pegs”. "Pawns" decide! This is the key to success!
   
   
   And the fittings are already attached to them. I made the pawns in such a way that there was at least 2.5 cm from the reinforcement to each side!

   After this, the reinforcement frame and insulation are laid in place
   
   

   On May 7 I really wanted to go home. To fulfill your desire, you had to accomplish a feat in a day. Backfill with soil and fill in the reinforced belt so that after May 9 the walls of the first floor will be taken care of.
   But first, two cars with blocks arrived in the morning. I thought I was already using something...
   
   

   An excavator began filling the pit where I had previously laid out the insulation. I only put 100mm insulation where I have a depth of only 90 cm, on the back side of the house.
   
   

   As a result, the tractor buried the entire pit in 10 hours. The guy was very smart behind the tractor and I only occasionally had to give him little instructions. It’s a pity he couldn’t plan it because the ground was still very wet.
   
   

   
   

   During the rest of the “free” time between instructions to the tractor, we poured concrete into the armored belt. By the way, my formwork still failed in two places (as can be seen in the photo above). Two blocks were squeezed out by concrete and now we need to think about what to do with them.
   
   

   Concrete was mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5, i.e. one part cement, 3 parts sand, 5 parts coarse aggregate (crushed stone). An electric concrete mixer with a capacity of 0.16 m3 was purchased especially for this purpose. I can’t imagine what we would do without her.
   
   

   With incredible effort we managed to finish by 22:00. Titanic work. If at first we were given all the ingredients for concrete by a tractor, then when it left and we ran out of ingredients we had to carry it in buckets... This is what ruined us But all’s well that ends well

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   Having (I hope) overcome all the problems with the crack in the wall, I finally got to the masonry of the first row, the first floor.
   Laying the first row is a very responsible matter and you should not approach this work carelessly. How the first row is made directly determines further construction and the evenness of the walls. so I tried to lay it out as accurately as possible, and if I realized that there were some deviations, then I removed the block and did everything again. Of course, due to the lack of experience, everything did not work out so quickly, but speed was not particularly important here.

   1. To set the angles, I invited a YTONG representative with all the necessary tools and skills. The first thing we did was use a level to check the heights around the entire perimeter of the house. It turned out there is a small difference, but not fatal...about 3cm. As I was told, it is advisable to use a solution to level out differences of no more than 5 cm, because up to 5 cm the solution practically does not shrink. If the difference is greater, then other methods are used more often
   
   

   2. Then we placed the corner blocks and checked them again with a level and wrote down the thickness of the masonry on them so as not to forget. Also, when arranging the blocks, we measured all sides so that the parallel sides matched in length and diagonal. The blocks were outlined with a pencil so that if the block was displaced, the measurements would not need to be taken again.

   
   

   3. And only after this we begin laying the corner blocks on the mortar, setting them exactly level and keeping in mind the thickness of the masonry. After the block has been installed, we check the height of the corner with a level and if the height is accurate, then move to the next corner, and if it does not match, then we either add mortar or seat the block even more.
   
   

   4. After installing the corner blocks, we install additional blocks in the middle of the sides in the same way using a level to avoid sagging of the thread. We carefully pull the thread so as not to move the block and wait an hour and a half so that the blocks stick and do not move while laying the entire first row. And in that hour we hauled up the entire first row of blocks.
   Initially, there was an idea to place them (the blocks) on pallets directly on top, but this idea was abandoned because when installing the corners it was necessary to measure the diagonals, and they would get in the way. In the future, you will have to call a crane, because the blocks are quite heavy and carrying them is not much fun...
   After the corner and additional blocks were tacked, we began laying the first row of blocks. This is not a tricky business in principle, but it requires a lot of attention and responsibility, because the first row is the key to success in the future. YTONG representative Pavel demonstrated how to do masonry and laid a couple of blocks with explanations, after which we took the initiative into our own hands.
   
   

   6. The most difficult part seemed to be making the corners of the bay window, but in reality it turned out to be quite simple. For this we needed a construction protractor, a hacksaw and a pencil.
   First of all, we measured the angle in the bay window. According to the project, it was known as 135, but in reality the bay window was built by the Uzbeks... It turned out to be 134. Then, having secured the protractor, we attach it to the block, draw a cutting line on it and cut the block into two halves. (Diagrams taken from the materials of the YTONG Professional School)
   
   

   7. After cutting, install parts 1 and 2 on the corner. Block 1 is placed in the same way as it was when marking, and block 2 is turned over 180 degrees. The bottom of block 2 is now the top. We apply the cut of block 2 to the long side of block 1 and so carry out the masonry.

   
   

   8. On the next row, we will place the marking block along another line, for proper ligation of the walls

   
   

   9. In my case it turned out like this (without solution yet):
   This is for picture 3
   
   

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    Why didn't I make the house square? So I thought when evening was already approaching on the street and the bay window was still not finished. But all's well that ends well.

    I wrote at the end how to make and bandage the corners of a bay window last part. Now the swearing part. It was not possible to draw out the corners of the bay window and pull the thread, since this is a complex angle and had to be adjusted to it on the spot. To ensure that the horizontal line did not go anywhere, we used a 3-meter level and checked it with a laser. Unfortunately, the workers who made the base did not approach their work as responsibly as I would have liked and narrowed the room a little in the bay window area (1 cm on each side of the project), and also made the corners without particularly bothering with the required degree and instead of 135 they received 133 , 134, or 136... This, of course, made our work a little more difficult and we had to adjust it on the spot, and not do it according to the project. But in principle it turned out quite tolerably. The length of the bay window walls (up to 3 m) made it possible to use a level for laying masonry.

    
    

    
    

    
    

    In general, I had to spend a whole day on just one bay window, but the work was worth it. According to the plan, there will be a Christmas tree there on New Year’s Day) It will be very beautiful)

    
    

    Also on this day, they managed to install the first row of the internal load-bearing wall of 300 blocks. Certain outlines of rooms have appeared, and this is inspiring

    
    

    At the end of the day, when it was already dark, it became possible to check the masonry with a laser level. In principle, everything turned out to be smooth. True, it seemed that on one of the walls (the longest) the horizontal went a little (5 millimeters by 11 meters). I haven’t decided what to do with it yet, but I think I’ll leave it that way. Otherwise everything turned out to be on par

    
    

    In the next part I will deal directly with the construction of walls.

The construction of residential buildings from cellular concrete is becoming increasingly popular due to its high heat saving and strength. You can often hear stories from the series “How I built a house from aerated concrete” listing the advantages of this material and describing the simplicity of the method. We will not rely on emotions and will simply show you how to build a house from aerated concrete yourself.

Preparatory stage

Design

First of all, you must be concerned about the project. A neighbor’s story about how I built a house from aerated concrete is useful, but not at all sufficient information for such a serious undertaking as capital construction.

For the same reason, you should not trust the design to amateurs; it is better to find a competent engineer or architect who can make all the necessary calculations and choose the most rational configuration of the future building.

Project documentation should include the following sections:

• Calculation of loads from the entire structure and selection of the type, material and parameters of the foundation;
• Determination of the thickness of load-bearing walls and partitions based on calculations of loads caused by their weight, as well as external forces and internal stresses of materials;
• Determining the need for reinforcement, indicating the location of the reinforcement, its diameter and the number of rods in each row;
• Calculation of expected stresses inside the material regarding the need for expansion joints, indicating their location and parameters;
• Project of roof truss system and roofing pie;
• Data on internal and electrical wiring, plumbing and utilities;
• The economic part with a detailed estimate for the purchase of materials and work (in the case of hiring professional builders).

Important!
This is only an approximate listing of sections; in practice, the document may be supplemented with new paragraphs depending on the specific features of the project, construction conditions and the wishes of the designer.

It is not worth saving on a project; this is the case when the stingy pays twice, because in case of mistakes, you can suffer serious losses, and even perfectly executed work will be in vain.

Site preparation

Before building a house from aerated concrete, it is necessary to prepare the construction site. It is advisable to level it, mark it, ensure the passage of equipment, and think over the location of functional areas.

Most likely, you will need a shed with a room for storing building materials, and you should also provide an electrical supply. In addition, it is advisable to provide lighting for work areas and reliable fencing.

Often at this stage, excavation work is carried out to lay sewer and water supply pipes. For convenience, you can immediately make paths for movement from the warehouse to the construction site and think about the route for the passage of equipment inside the facility.

At the end, when the site is prepared, you can purchase materials and deliver them to the site.

Attention!
Aerated concrete should be stored indoors, as it can deteriorate if left outdoors for a long time without protection from precipitation.

Construction works

Foundation

Aerated concrete is a lightweight building material, and therefore there is an opinion that there is no need for a solid foundation. But we are talking about how to properly build a house from aerated concrete, which means we will do everything according to the standards.

SNiP defines aerated concrete as a block wall material, therefore, it requires a foundation made of stone and/or reinforced concrete.

The most suitable types are:

• Recessed or T-shaped shallow recessed tape;
• Bored pile with reinforced concrete grillage;
• Monolithic concrete slab;
• Shallow strip foundation.

Recently, monolithic foundations are most often used for the construction of aerated concrete buildings, as they are strong, durable, reliable and easy to implement. To manufacture them, it is enough to make the formwork according to the design, in which the reinforcing grid is laid, and fill it with vibrations.

Important!
Building a foundation without a design will require a significant margin of safety, which will significantly affect the cost of the structure.
This difference will easily cover the cost of design, the price of which does not greatly affect the overall estimate.

Walls and ceilings

For laying blocks, you should use a special adhesive for aerated concrete and a dosing notched trowel, which will help to apply the correct, uniform amount of glue. This results in virtually seamless monolithic masonry, in which there are no cold bridges or deviations in geometry.

Cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels and diamond drilling of holes in concrete are not required here, since the blocks can be easily processed with hacksaws and hand-held power tools.

Step-by-step instructions for laying aerated concrete walls:

1. We carry out horizontal waterproofing cut-off. To do this, we lay euroroofing felt in two layers on the surface of the grillage or slab;

1. Prepare the glue according to the manufacturer's instructions. As a rule, the dry mixture is mixed with water and stirred to thick sour cream using a mixer or manually;

1. We begin laying the first row, to do this we apply glue using a ladle and remove the excess with a notched trowel. The dosage of glue and the thickness of the layer should be maintained as carefully as possible;

1. When the row is completed, we check its horizontalness with a level or level, and then level the surface with an aerated concrete plane. Then we cut two longitudinal grooves in the blocks, into which we lay reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm at a distance from the outer edge of at least 60 mm;

1. Next, sweep away the dust and fragments and continue laying from the corners. We repeat the reinforcement after 4 rows; it will also be required in the support areas of the lintels and under the window openings. Level differences between adjacent blocks are unacceptable, so we level each row with a plane or grater, and check every 3 rows with a level;

1. We also lay out the internal partitions, we recommend laying emission-extinguishing air-filled materials under the blocks; they can also be laid in places where partitions adjoin load-bearing walls;

1. The wall box of the floor must be completed with a reinforcing belt, on which the partition slabs are laid. On spans less than 6 meters, aerated concrete slabs can be used;

1. Upon completion of the entire box, you should lay the attic floor beams and build a mauerlat.

Important!
After erecting the walls, you should immediately begin installing the roof so that the material is not exposed to precipitation.

Conclusion

The construction of an aerated concrete building requires the implementation of a certain technology, which is shown in the video in this article and our instructions. The result is a warm and durable home for the whole family.

You cannot build a building higher than 5 floors. However, for the needs of private construction this is usually quite sufficient. In this article, we will introduce you to projects for building a house made of aerated concrete, its prices, make calculations and estimates, and share useful photos and videos.

Aerated concrete is a subtype of lightweight concrete with all the ensuing advantages and disadvantages. When building a residential building, these qualities must be assessed from all points of view.

The video below will tell you more about the advantages and disadvantages of aerated concrete houses:

Advantages

• Thermal insulation– indicators depending on the type of aerated concrete vary from 0.072 to 0.14 W/(m*S). Taking into account the standards for resistance to heat loss, which are pleasant in Russia in the middle zone, for example, the wall thickness should be 37.5 cm. However, much here depends on the density of the selected material: for example, when building from structural aerated concrete, the wall thickness increases to 50 cm, since its thermal insulation qualities are lower.
• Strength– Autoclaved aerated concrete is the most durable. Due to the special features, the micropores are distributed here as evenly as possible, which also allows the load to be evenly distributed. This makes it possible to compare.
• Aerated concrete is quite different high vapor permeability, which is a definite plus for a residential building. The walls “breathe” and, to some extent, remove moisture from the room.
• Gas blocks have perfect geometric shape. This allows you to lay the “bricks” not on the mortar, but on the glue. In this way, the absence of “cold bridges” is ensured, and the surface of the walls is smooth.
• Material easy to process using any mechanical methods: it can be sawed, cut, grooves, recesses can be made in it and unusual architectural forms can be realized.
• Light weight even with large wall thicknesses, it creates a much smaller load on the foundation for a house made of aerated concrete than a brick one.
• Construction time dwellings made of aerated concrete are minimal: the foundation takes the longest to build.
• Price aerated concrete blocks are noticeably lower in cost than bricks.

Flaws

Unfortunately, the disadvantages of aerated concrete buildings are also quite significant.

• Despite the relative ease of construction, the foundation will have to be tiled or monolithic strip: aerated concrete has low resistance to tensile loads. This means that when the foundation shrinks, the walls will become covered with cracks.
• Aerated concrete absorbs moisture to an even greater extent: it is open porous. The material does not store moisture, but dries over time, but in order to get rid of dampness it must be protected.
• High vapor permeability limits the choice of exterior finishing: a ventilated facade, siding with a ventilation gap, or special porous plaster are suitable. If these requirements are not followed, moisture will actually accumulate in the wall, leading to destruction.

How to build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands?

Construction from aerated concrete has its own characteristics. The masonry technology itself is simple - ordinary brick with ligation. However, due to insufficient strength, reinforcement is mandatory for the structure. So, let's look at the main stages of building a house made of aerated concrete.

This video will tell you about building houses from aerated concrete with your own hands:

Foundation

First of all, lay the foundation - slab or strip. If the building is supposed to be higher than three floors, the foundation must be slab. This is a very material-intensive and labor-intensive foundation, but, fortunately, the foundation here is shallow.

1. A trench or pit is dug under the foundation, the bottom is filled with sand to a depth of 20 cm, the sand is wetted and compacted.
2. Formwork is installed - usually from boards or. The height of the foundation above ground level is 30–40 cm.
3. The foundation is poured in layers - no more than 15 cm. Reinforcement is performed twice or three times: for this, the frame is tied from rods with a diameter of 12 mm. If a blind area is planned, then one of these frames also covers the blind area.
4. Concrete is compacted using bayonets or vibrating attachments.

Further construction is possible only after the concrete has set and reached its design strength. Then the formwork is removed.

Laying

1. Cut-off waterproofing is installed - usually 2 layers are laid on the foundation.
2. The first row is laid in a ratio of 1:3. Particular attention is paid to leveling: the masonry mortar allows you to achieve precise horizontality. The first row must be reinforced: for this, two rows of rods with a diameter of at least 8 cm are placed in the masonry layer.

The thickness of the wall is 35–40 cm, the distance of the reinforcement rod from the edge of the block is 6 cm. If the thickness of the masonry is 20 cm, then reinforcement with one rod is allowed.

1. It is recommended to lay the next rows with special glue. The ideal geometric dimensions of the gas blocks allow for very precise, tight joining. The adhesive layer, unlike masonry mortar, is much thinner - 0.7 cm, which subsequently prevents the formation of “cold bridges”. The glue is applied to a clean surface with a trowel and leveled with a spatula-comb.
2. Every 3 or 4 rows, reinforcement is carried out. Since the glue layer is too thin, grooves are made for this - 12 mm wide. Reinforcement is placed in them and glue is applied.
3. In addition, it is necessary to reinforce the row under the window opening - the width of the opening plus 90 cm, and the places where the lintels rest above the windows and doors.
4. In places where the thickness or height of the walls changes, expansion joints are installed at the intersections of long walls and the like. Aerated concrete does not bend, and such gaps make it possible to partially compensate for the load. The seams are sealed with mineral wool, polyethylene, and treated with sealant.
5. Lintels over openings are made from U-shaped blocks. They are laid at a width equal to the width of the opening plus 90 cm, reinforcement is placed inside - 2-3 layers and filled with concrete. The same structure can be made from ordinary boards and blocks, but in this case the blocks will have to be cut to width.
6. An armored belt must be installed between floors or under the roof. In the simplest case, formwork is constructed for it, reinforcement is laid in at least two rows and filled with concrete of the same strength as the foundation.

If we are talking about a roof, then studs are embedded in the armored belt for attaching the Mauerlat.

Flooring and interior finishing

1. The interfloor ceiling is constructed from concrete monolithic slabs, monolithic cellular concrete slabs or light reinforced concrete beams filled with T-shaped blocks of aerated concrete. It depends on the specifics of the project.
2. or aerated concrete chips. However, this is rarely done, since in practice, insulating a floor with foam plastic turns out to be much faster and more profitable, since foam plastic is a much better heat insulator than any cellular concrete.
3. Finishing a building made of aerated concrete is mandatory, and finishing must be done first from the inside and then from the outside. The material equally absorbs moisture and if you start finishing from the inside, this will not allow moisture to accumulate.

By finishing:

• Almost any material is suitable for interior decoration, since its vapor permeability should be lower than that of aerated concrete, and this is easy to do.
• For exterior finishing, special porous plaster is optimal. A good option is a ventilated facade, although it is more difficult to arrange.

Read on to find out how much it costs to build a house from aerated concrete, and what the price is for services of this type.

The following video will also help novice builders when building a house from aerated concrete:

Projects and cost estimates

If the future owner of the building is not a professional builder, the design stage must be entrusted to specialists. The cost of mistakes here is too high, but in a residential area it is necessary to provide not only the box itself and partitions, but also the installation of water supply, sewerage, electrical networks, gas pipelines, and so on. Here you can only calculate the approximate volume of materials yourself.

Often, construction companies develop projects for free, provided that they are the ones entrusted with implementation. This does not apply to complex projects. Many of them offer a large number of turnkey projects of various configurations, sizes and prices.

The cost of publication depends on many factors.

• A modest one-story building with an area of ​​50 square meters. m. costs 1,250,000–1,450,000 rubles.
• A one-story building with an area of ​​200 sq. m. m. with a terrace – 3,800,000 rub.
• A two-story building will cost no less than 2 million rubles. with an area of ​​up to 130 sq. m.
• A two-storey cottage in the constructivist style with an area of ​​500 sq. m. will cost 5 million rubles. and higher.

Projects of houses made of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete house project - 1 Project of a house made of aerated concrete - 2
Aerated concrete house project - 3
Aerated concrete house project - 4
Project of a house made of aerated concrete - 5

Building your own home is always a labor-intensive undertaking that requires a large financial investment. The construction of houses from aerated block allows not only to minimize financial expenses due to the low cost of the material, but also to make the process of constructing a building as accessible as possible even for a novice builder. It is much easier to build a house from aerated concrete blocks than from brick or timber, as you will see after reading this article.

Advantages and disadvantages of aerated concrete

Aerated blocks, like any building material, have their pros and cons, which affect not only the construction technique of the building, but also its performance for many decades.

Advantages:

• Aerated concrete buildings are highly durable. Like brick buildings, they can last in excellent condition for more than 40 years
• High strength. Gas blocks resist mechanical damage well and are difficult to break or crumble.
• Fast construction speed. Aerated blocks are quite large in size, which significantly speeds up the pace of construction
• Cheap material. The low price of aerated concrete allows you not to save on materials and makes it possible to build cottages 2-3 floors high even for families with below-average incomes
• Low thermal conductivity. A house made of aerated concrete retains heat well and can provide a comfortable temperature in the apartment even on a cold winter day

Flaws:

• The cheapness of the material is due to the addition of a variety of: quartz sand, cement, aluminum powder and lime, so the material is characterized by low environmental friendliness
• Aerated concrete is vulnerable to moisture and if its surface is not treated with waterproofing, then mold may form on the walls over time

Once the construction project is known, it’s time to start purchasing building materials. To calculate the required amount of gas block, we first calculate the area of ​​the walls: multiply the sum of the lengths of all walls by their height. For example, if the total length of the walls is 45 m and their height is 3 m, then the area of ​​the walls will be: 45 * 3 = 135.

Since gas blocks are sold by the cubic meter, it is necessary to multiply the area of ​​the walls by the width of one block: 135*0.3=40.5. This is exactly how many cubic meters of aerated block will be required to build the wall.

When the calculation of all the necessary building materials has been completed, we begin preparing the construction site. First, you need to bring all necessary communications to the territory, such as water, gas and electricity. It would not be superfluous to fence off the areas and install lighting fixtures. Aerated blocks must be delivered in sealed packaging, which will protect the material from moisture and prevent it from collapsing during the initial stages of construction. After unpacking, aerated blocks must be stored under a canopy.

It is impossible to build a durable house from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands unless you spend time building a stable foundation. The best choice would be a strip monolithic foundation. This type of foundation has high strength characteristics, but it is not recommended for use on soil with close groundwater.

A monolithic foundation is created in several stages:

• Trenches up to two meters deep and 40 cm wide are dug along the entire perimeter of the building. The bottom of the trench must be cleared of soil and covered with 10 cm of sand for better adhesion of the concrete solution
• We install the fittings. Pins with a diameter of 1 to 2 cm are used, which are installed vertically at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. To make the structure monolithic, all the pins are fastened together in a horizontal plane with reinforcement
• We install the formwork. The formwork can be assembled from available materials, the main thing is that its height is at least 30 cm and is the same in all areas of the foundation
• We begin pouring the concrete mixture

When laying load-bearing structures, blocks up to 400 mm in size should be used. Despite their dimensions, aerated concrete blocks are very light, so the construction of walls can be completed in two weeks. As for internal partitions, the requirements for them are slightly less and blocks up to 250 mm in size will be sufficient - they will provide excellent sound insulation between separate rooms in the house.

Particular attention should be paid to the type of material for fastening gas blocks. Today, glue is increasingly preferred, but a house made of aerated block itself is not highly environmentally friendly materials, so using glue that releases toxins in construction is especially not recommended. It is best to use old reliable cement mortar, it is easy to prepare, safe and cheap.

In masonry, special attention should be paid to the first row, since the correct construction of the entire structure as a whole depends on it. First, we cover the entire surface of the foundation with waterproofing; you can use roofing felt. We pour cement-sand mortar and lay the first row of gas blocks on it. We use cement-sand only when laying the first row, so that it is easy to adjust the height of the walls on each side of the building. In order to carry out the laying with greater precision, we stretch a fishing line from the outside of the base, along the entire perimeter of the building. It is along the boundaries with the fishing line that we will be guided when building the walls.

We start laying from the highest corner of the building. The thickness of the mortar on which the aerated concrete block is laid must be at least 10 mm, but there are no restrictions on height, so you can vary the thickness of the mortar during construction in order to maximally level the plane of the first row of aerated concrete blocks. During the installation process, use a building level to make sure that the surfaces are even, and in case of deviations, a few hits on the block with a rubber mallet will allow it to become in the desired plane. During the installation process, there is a high probability that a small gap may appear between the last pair of aerated concrete blocks in a row; to fill it, you need to cut off a piece of aerated concrete using a grinder or a simple hacksaw and insert it into the empty space in the hole. At the end of the first row, you can pull the fishing line diagonally from opposite corners, this will help make sure that the plane is straight and the row is laid correctly.

At the end of the laying of the row, we rub over all the unevenness, remove excess mortar, dust and dirt from the blocks. Before laying a new level of blocks, you must wait at least an hour for the solution to “grab” the block. We repeat this masonry procedure for the construction of each new row.

The optimal height for installing a window is row 4, but in order to install a window opening, it is necessary to additionally strengthen the wall using chiselling. To do this, take a special device - a fence cutter and use it to create two parallel lines with a small recess on the third row. We lay reinforcement inside each of the lines and secure it with cement mortar.

Gradually, the height of the walls rises and the work process approaches the stage of installing window and door lintels. Lintels are used to strengthen the wall above the opening. You can buy it ready-made or make it yourself. We recommend purchasing U-shaped jumpers from the store. They resemble ordinary gas blocks with a hollow space inside into which the reinforcement is placed. Such lintels should be installed in a simple manner: the required length of the lintel is made up of several blocks, fixed above the opening, a reinforcing layer is laid inside it and filled with mortar.

During operation, the building is subjected to multiple natural loads, and in order to increase the load-bearing capacity of the walls, it is recommended to lay reinforcement in the wall every 3-4 rows. The reinforcement is laid using the same technology that we used to strengthen the wall a couple of paragraphs higher in the text.

To install floors, you can use aerated concrete or hollow concrete slabs. Aerated concrete slabs differ from simple concrete slabs in greater strength and low thermal conductivity. To install aerated concrete slabs, it is necessary to install a distribution belt between the load-bearing walls on which the slabs will be installed.

A do-it-yourself aerated block house has one big advantage – the pliability of the material. Aerated blocks are easy to saw, so there are no problems when creating openings of complex shapes. To install wires in walls and aerated block ceilings, it is enough to use a fence cutter. Despite the fact that an aerated concrete block can be easily drilled, this material has excellent load-bearing capacity and will guarantee a durable and strong structure.

We strengthen the last row of aerated concrete blocks with the help of a reinforced belt, in which we pre-install studs for attaching the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat is necessary for attaching the wooden rafters of the roof of the house to it.

If the house is residential, then it is recommended to use a roof with an attic, which will give the building an additional floor at minimal financial cost; the attic can be used as a living room, an office for work or a warehouse for storing things.

After erecting the roof frame, it must be additionally sheathed with a thermal insulation and waterproofing layer. Thermal insulation material is placed between the slats; it is best to use stone wool, because it is easy to install, retains heat well and is low cost. If the room is residential, then you can separately make a layer of soundproofing material under the wall. We lay waterproofing material on top of the insulation, which we cover with a layer of vapor barrier film.

We lay the final roofing covering on the roof; you can use slate, metal tiles, corrugated sheets, ceramic tiles and many other materials. They all differ in price and performance characteristics.

Each aerated block wall must be treated with a special type of plaster for aerated blocks; with its help, the building material can become more durable, as well as improve the thermal and waterproofing of the walls.

Finishing of the facade begins only at the very end, when the roofing work is completely completed. For cladding, you can use any material: brick, decorative stone, siding and many others.

Building a house from blocks has always aroused the interest of users. The variety of options offered by manufacturers allows you to choose a natural or artificial material that fully meets all the requirements of modern comfort. But it is important to know not only how to build a house from blocks, but also all the quality characteristics of the proposed building material.

Technical parameters of block elements

If you rely on the price and aesthetics of the material, you can also build a house from blocks with your own hands, but no one can tell you how long the building will last. Therefore, you need to rely on the following indicators:

• Thermal conductivity. The lower the indicator, the higher the energy savings, which means the walls can be thinner;
• Strength. This means the ability of the material to withstand compressive loads;
• Frost resistance. Indicated by the number of freezing/thawing cycles without the product losing its exceptional qualities;
• Volume weight. Determined in kg/1m3, depends on the density of the material and is needed to calculate the strength of the supporting base;
• Moisture resistance. This is a parameter of hygroscopicity, that is, the moisture absorption of the product - the lower, the better;
• Vapor permeability. Responsible for the formation of condensation in the room and removal of excess moisture;
• Fire resistance, fire safety;
• Soundproofing qualities.

The size range and environmental friendliness of materials are also taken into account without fail. The first indicator is responsible for the variety of elements, which means the ability to translate any forms and projects into reality. The second is for the safety of the product for the health of all residents of the house. And not least of all, the price of the product and the efficiency of building construction play a role in the choice.

Types of block products

All blocks are separated by composition and content. The structural determinant of each element gives the material characteristics that determine the scope of application: internal or external wall panels, foundations, etc. It’s worth starting with blocks for arranging the supporting base.

Foundation blocks

The composition of the FBS block is heavy grade concrete, which is characterized by increased strength and resistance to various types of influences. Most often used when arranging strip foundations and is indicated for heavy massive buildings. However, when planning the basement level, such blocks are also good and are an alternative to a strip base, benefiting in terms of economy and speed of construction.

Important! To increase strength, frame reinforcement is used.

In addition to standard FBS, the following are used:

• FBV - elements with cutouts, through which it is convenient to lay communications;
• FBP are hollow block bars used to lighten the weight of a building or to equip load-bearing wall panels. They have improved thermal insulation qualities.

Advice! The use of foundation blocks will require the use of technology, since it is physically impossible to lift some elements yourself.

Creating a block base has many advantages:

1. Construction of a house regardless of the seasons;
2. The lack of time for the structure to mature and the possibility of erecting the box immediately upon completion of work with laying the foundation speeds up the construction period;
3. Reduced workload due to the lack of formwork, reinforcement frame and mixture pouring.

Important! It is allowed to create a block foundation on any soil except heaving soil.

Cellular blocks for building a house: advantages and disadvantages

This type combines three types: aerated concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate blocks. Each material has been successfully used to build a block house, but it is difficult for a non-specialist to determine the characteristic features of the types. Let's look at the fundamental differences.

Foam and aerated concrete blocks

Materials vary according to the production method. To form foam, a foaming agent is used, resulting in an element with a closed internal structure, while for gas, a chemical reaction is used to form an open-shaped structure. Making a block can be one of two ways:

1. Pouring the mixture into a mold made for small-sized elements;
2. Pouring a monolithic piece and then cutting it into segments.

Foam concrete blocks are inferior to aerated concrete in terms of material shrinkage and increased level of hygroscopicity; moreover, aerated concrete is considered better in terms of thermal insulation qualities.

Technological features of the construction of houses from foam and aerated concrete blocks

The main advantage of the material is that you can build a house yourself. In this case, you don’t need to have a lot of experience. The accuracy of shapes and sizes, the determined class and variety of element options help to select the material for any type of load-bearing structure. The blocks are held together with ordinary cement mortar or adhesive.

Advice! If you buy glue, it is much easier to adjust the shape of the house vertically and horizontally.

Positive and negative qualities of gas and foam concrete blocks:

• Good permeability of wall structures;
• High energy saving rates;
• Sufficient load-bearing capacity of each block;
• Fire resistance;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Durability;
• Frost resistance.

Important! Autoclaved aerated concrete allows up to 100 defrosting and thawing cycles.

These were the pros and cons:

1. High hygroscopicity, and if you choose aerated concrete, the higher the density of the material, the higher the absorbency;
2. Cold bridges reduce energy savings.

It is possible and necessary to build from blocks of this type if you think about the heat and waterproofing. Added to the advantages are overall savings: on materials, foundation construction (the light weight of the blocks reduces the requirements for the load-bearing capacity of the foundation), and the use of specialist services. But the video will show the general process of building a house from blocks.

Gas silicate blocks

A material with a cellular structure with high thermal insulation properties, produced by the autoclave method. It is made from the same raw materials as aerated concrete, but the difference is in the larger proportion of lime. It is this additive that causes controversy about the harmfulness of the product, but people have been whitewashing their houses for many years in a row and use this method to this day without experiencing any particular inconvenience.

Important! The highest load-bearing capacity allows you to build houses up to 5 floors, but the material has low bending strength. Therefore, the requirements for the foundation have been increased: a monolithic foundation will be the best option if you want to build a house from gas silicate correctly and for a long time.

The advantages of gas silicate are not limited to high performance - the material has an extremely low price, and the possibility of arranging a load-bearing wall in one row at latitudes of positive temperatures also adds to the product’s popularity. However, if there are frosts, gas silicate elements need additional insulation. Moreover, it is best to combine the process with waterproofing due to the high absorbency of the blocks.

Advice! When planning to build a house yourself, you should pay attention to the density indicator, especially if it is a two-story building - the best indicator is D 400-D 700. Ideal geometry, durability, frost resistance (up to 100 cycles) and high load-bearing capacity are clear advantages in favor of choosing gas silicate .

Blocks of other types and types

In addition to cellular concrete, manufacturers offer equally convenient and practical materials. Each product has its own advantages and characteristics, and when examined in detail, it is quite possible to find a rational and cost-effective option for the construction of a private building.

1. Expanded clay concrete. This is baked clay, cement and sand sintered into one element. Being one of the most environmentally friendly materials, blocks can be hollow or solid. The former have high energy-saving characteristics. In addition, there are many more advantages:

• strength;
• reduced thermal conductivity coefficient;
• increased sound insulation characteristics;
• resistance to humidity and aggressive environmental influences;
• light weight.

1. Arbolit. Otherwise called sawdust concrete and is a composition of cement, sand, wood chips and sawdust. Low specific gravity and extremely high thermal insulation rates determined the popularity of the product. It is important that the foundation can be made quite light, and with proper waterproofing, the creation of a house from wood concrete blocks is shown in wet conditions. Another positive point is that it is non-flammable, despite the content of wood elements.

Calculation of the amount of materials for building a house

After choosing the material, it’s time to calculate its quantity. If you contact a company, you don’t have to do this yourself, but it’s still better to do a calculation to make sure the developer is honest. First, you need to convert all indicators into construction volume, that is, m3, which is a unit of sales of materials. After that, find out the volume of one block and determine how many of them are needed per 1 square meter.

Determining the total volume of purchased building material is determined by determining all the dimensions of the future home: height, length, thickness of wall panels. Don’t forget window and door openings in your calculations.

Now divide the clarified total construction volume by the number of block elements, which in total cover 1 square meter - the number will be the amount of material that needs to be purchased.

How to build a house from blocks

There are no special tricks in building a house from block elements. The technology is similar to bricklaying, but takes much less time. All processes begin with the arrangement of the foundation, and here you will be pleasantly surprised by the possibility of good savings - block structures have a low specific weight and therefore the foundation can also be made lightweight, the house will stand firmly on shallow, piled foundations (it all depends on the type of soil).

The further stages of construction are also simple:

1. Arrangement of external load-bearing walls from denser elements. Moreover, the method of laying is no different from laying bricks;
2. Construction of internal wall partitions, for which a cheaper product with average thermal conductivity is selected;
3. Roof installation and finishing.

The main thing is that you can build such a house yourself, do not wait for a long period of shrinkage of the structure and almost immediately move into a new home, simultaneously doing the final finishing. Of course, for each type of block you will have to choose a special type of finishing materials due to poor adhesion of standard putties and facings with stone. But such costs are compensated by the overall savings on the foundation and material.

When calculating how much it costs to build a house, you cannot forget about block structures. If the technological subtleties of the choice are followed, a house built from aerated concrete or other block elements will serve excellently for many years and will not be inferior to other products in terms of environmental friendliness, warmth and a pleasant microclimate. And look at the photo, don’t you want to have your own comfortable and excellent home, which is ready not within 2-3 seasons required for “ripening”, shrinkage and other subtleties, but literally in one summer!