Sauna stone stoves in order. Brick stove designs for a bath: the problem of choice, classification and design

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the design of a brick stove, in a cross-section along two sections.

1. Laying red stove bricks.
2. Laying refractory (fireclay) bricks.
3. Fire door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bunker for bath stones.
8. Smoke valve.

A drawing of the furnace showing its overall dimensions.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant brick. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15...20 (mm). A metal water tank is installed behind the firebox, at the level of the grate. A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, into which heaped stones are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material Specification:

• red brick, 65 x 120 x 250 (mm) – 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) – 72 (pcs.)
• clay – 60 (kg)
• refractory clay – 35 (kg)
• sand – 32 (kg)
• smoke valve – 140 x 270 (mm)
• fire door – 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door – 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate – 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank – 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm) thick
• stone hopper – 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm) thick
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry of a heater stove for a bathhouse designed by E.Ya. Kolomakina.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is laid at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the ash door, begin laying refractory bricks, and strictly follow the rules for tying the bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. Lay the blower door with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. Place the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.
The width of the groove for the grate should be 5...8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is covered with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bunker for stones.

Drawing of a metal bin for stones.

The network is full of materials that suggest, without any preliminary planning, disassembling the elements and their connection in a system called a “sauna stove,” to immediately begin laying it. This only means that the people who wrote are extremely far from practice, and their advice contains a mixture of useful information, heresy and silence on essential issues.

We will take a different route: without directly touching on the issue of independent masonry, we will tell you what professional stove makers know about.

Brick stove for a bath

Let's start with the fact that amateurs choose a brick heater for a bath specifically Russian steam room, because . There is a lot on our website, so for now it’s enough to say that a closed heater is one of the important conditions, working together:

• brickwork;
• a container for stones, closed on all sides, placed inside the oven;
• controlled convection (the ability to almost completely block air flows).

However, in the baths you can also find open heaters. This is not entirely “according to the rules,” but this option is not a remake. Quicker, this is an echo or descendant of “black-style” sauna stoves.

The main problem with an open heater is that it freely gives off heat to the surrounding air, not allowing this process to be regulated. In addition, the top row of stones never heats up to the temperature of producing light steam, so in cases of open heaters it is necessary to “extract” it using steam gun, supplying water to the most heated stones at the bottom of the laying.

We will not consider an option that is less consistent with our concept of a Russian bath, so we will immediately move on to the “proper stove”:

With closed heater

Brick deserves special consideration. The designs of brick stoves are quite diverse, in particular, they can be inherited from conventional heating stoves smoke circulation system, which allows you to significantly reduce the temperature of the furnace gases escaping into the chimney pipe, accumulating heat in the furnace mass.

However, placing a stone filling inside a brick stove-heater makes it possible to no less effectively remove heat from the furnace gases passing through it or flowing around it (depending on the design).

Thus, the simplest option for implementing a brick stove for a bath with a closed heater is direct-flow stove without smoke circulation. Which is not without its advantages, because it saves the owner from the need for more complex cleaning than in this case.

The stove consists of a firebox, above which there is a stone backfill in a flow-through heater, and a chimney. The density and mass of the backfill are such that the furnace gases lose not only heat, but also sparks, and only smoke goes into the chimney.

IMPORTANT! It is recommended to place stones in such a stove at the rate of 15 kg per cubic meter of steam room, but this is the minimum value. Optimal – 40-50 kg. At the same time, you don’t need to worry about volume - the stones are heavy, they have a high density (1600-1800 kg/cube), so they don’t take up much space.

It also wouldn't hurt lining. Moreover, it is advisable to cover not only the inside of the firebox with fireclay bricks, but also the heater. The main advantage of the lining is increasing the service life of the furnace.

Another means for the same thing is metal strips and corners, which tighten the lining, and, if desired, the stove itself from the outside.

As for choosing the shape of the stove base, it can be square or rectangular. Based on the geometry of the brick, a rectangular shape will be better, because then you won’t have to cut the brick. However, there are also square designs where you don’t have to cut almost anything.

With or without a blower?

Now about the blower. If a brick stove is being built for a bathhouse, is there a need for a vent in it? Let's first explain what it is blower. This is a kind of channel that brings air under grate, and through it - into the firebox, supplying the fuel with the oxygen necessary for its combustion. A door is used to regulate the intensity of air flow (draft).

Traction exists when there are two holes - at the bottom of the stove and at the top of the chimney. That's why their sizes are related to each other. In addition, there is a certain relationship between the volume of the firebox and the draft - if the draft is too strong, the wood will burn quickly and at a higher temperature.

When installing a brick stove for a bathhouse, you can refuse the blower and put the deaf under. This doesn't mean you won't have any cravings at all. It will be due to the slightly open fire door. In principle, the stove will work, but the dimensions of the combustion door are large enough to allow fine adjustment of the air supply. At the same time, the efficiency of the stove becomes lower than it could be.

But this is not the only argument against a blind hearth. It will be a big punishment for the owners danger of burning embers falling out when the door is open, as well as the need frequent use of a poker, because firewood never burns out completely. Upon completion of the combustion process, you will need more pull out the firebrands and immediately simmer them in a bucket of water.

If we talk about the sufficient dimensions of the grate and the cross-section of the chimney pipe, then both can be approximately equal area of ​​one standard brick. This is enough for normal traction.

As for water tanks, when making it yourself, it is not recommended to use materials such as black And Cink Steel. Stop choosing instead. either tinned copper or stainless steel.

What do stove makers say about brick? They say that there is no alternative nowadays red, full-bodied, produced by wet pressing. Of course - with the correct geometry, without changes in color, indicating non-uniform firing. And also loud, like metal, sounding when you hit it. Under-burning is manifested by pallor of color, and overburntness can only be seen at the break - there will be blue-black areas.

As for the pipe, from the moment it passes the roof, it is better to cover it clinker bricks, but you also need to be able to choose it. The reason is increased frost resistance - 70 or more cycles.

Attention! Clinker is not suitable for laying the stove itself, because it has weak adhesion to the mortar - it does not take water.

Fireclay brick used only for construction fuel core, which can also be considered as the lining of the firebox. In the case we described, the lining was also made for the heater.

Important! Red brick is placed on a regular mortar of clay and sand, and fireclay brick is placed on a mixture of fireclay with fireclay chips. Pipe above roof level - mortar without clay, cement-sand or cement, sand, lime.

For one part clay is taken from 1 to 6 parts sand, but here it all depends on the fat content of the clay itself; the more it crumbles when drying, the less sand it needs. Oily clay It doesn't crumble, it cracks. Normal solution It doesn’t crack, and if it crumbles, it’s only along the edge. Usually, to calculate the proportion, samples are made with different proportions of sand and dried.

Advice! If possible, take it quarry or mountain sand- he is the best.

The bricks are counted simply: according to the masonry drawings, and the height of one row with mortar is 7 cm. When lining a pipe, the number of bricks in a row is also multiplied by the number of rows in height, plus 50 pieces for fluff (fire expansion) and 70 for the head and otter. All that remains is to calculate the number of cubic meters, but this is also simple: we proceed from the fact that there are 420 bricks in one cube. When purchasing, you should add another 10% on top of the amount received.

Brick stoves with heater and tank

A tank is not an indispensable attribute of a sauna stove, but for those who have problems with hot water, it becomes a very relevant addition.

You just need to take into account the following things: the stones in the heater must warm up degrees up to 300, so that you can get light steam from them. And the water is higher 100 degrees It just can't get warm. What does it mean? What if we place the tank side by side with the heater, the water will significantly cool the stones and prevent it from achieving the desired temperature.

And here we have two options: either design the stove so that the heater and the tank do not touch at all, or let the stones heat up first, and place the tank above them next to the pipe. There is also a third option: heat the water using a heat exchanger coil (discussed separately), which is located inside the firebox, heating the water in an external tank by natural or forced convection.

Brick heater for a bath, options for placing a water tank

It is clear that When the tank is located on the side, it is more convenient to fill and empty it, if there is no cold water supply network, that is, manually, but this will have to be done more than once or twice while the oven is heating, because the water will boil quickly.

For those who try to “solve the problem” by will increase the tank volume, we have to say that the idea is not so good - the water takes heat away from the stove, and the more it is, the more you will reduce the efficiency of the stove. Moreover, even having reached the boiling point, it will still take away heat, because the temperature inside is much higher.

The only thing that can be suggested in this situation is to design in which the tank will be as close as possible to the fire door. This way you can reduce the heat a little.

If you choose over the heater, then only if there is cold water supply. Because you'll get tired of carrying water upstairs.

However, she really good from the point of view of increasing efficiency– the water will take heat away from the pipe and from the top of the heater.

On a note! Water can be supplied to the tank under pressure, which forces you to take care of two things: you will need fuse (burst valve), which relieves excess pressure, and will also need screeds inside the tank.

But if pressure occurs only when water is supplied to the tank, then you can forget about the above. But you may need overflow pipe.

The tank should not be placed on bare brick. Pros advise taking a sheet of asbestos or basalt cardboard and soaking it in a clay solution. Then you place the soaked sheet on the bricks, and place the tank on top. On top of the tank is another sheet of the same type. On it - foil and some kind of non-flammable thermal insulator - mineral wool, expanded clay, foam glass...

By the way! When the fuel core on which the tank will be installed has already been laid out, there is no need to rush to install it. We have to wait Couple of weeks, which the masonry needs to dry sufficiently. Only after this can the tank be placed on asbestos or cardboard, as mentioned above.

If the information we provide is not enough, we recommend reading a book written by a stove maker - Polyakov I.S. “Stoves, fireplaces, sauna heaters, barbecues.” There, in addition to practical advice, you will also find information about the technology and stages of laying different stoves.

At the planning stage of building a bathhouse, the order of the bathhouse stove must be drawn up. It must be remembered that each type of oven has its own specific number of rows of bricks. The design of the furnace itself should include:

• ash pan;
• firebox;
• blower;
• hello;
• grate;
• door.

The arrangement of a brick stove for a bathhouse has its own nuances.

Fig.2 Heater sauna stove - order.

The solution is prepared from clay taken from a depth of more than 1-1.5 m, remove impurities by soaking and sifting through a fine mesh. Before sifting, the clay should be well soaked for 2-3 days. The same applies to sand: we sift it, getting rid of debris and lumps. We mix with the ratio 1:1 (clay to sand), mixing 1:2 is allowed, check the solution by trying to apply it on a flat surface. The solution must be elastic and lie flat without breaks, maintaining the integrity of the applied layer. Only in this case will we achieve good adhesion, and most importantly, the tightness of the rows and the oven itself. Layer thickness can vary within 3-6 mm.

Fig.3 Side and front view: sauna stove, ordering.

Figure 3 shows how tall the sauna stove is and what its order is, where you can easily count the number of rows. Each division is equal to 10 cm; this sauna stove’s order is designed for a 2.6 m ceiling. Therefore, we lay out the stove itself with all its elements dry. Draw an ordering diagram for yourself, then you will be aware of further actions and will not stand and think before starting each row. Each owner has his own room, and standard orders are not always suitable, so the order is always selected individually. It is better, when you make a diagram of your order, show it to a specialist for approval or adjustment. When sauna stoves are erected, the order is calculated and starts from the zero row, that is, from the very foundation. During initial laying, it is advisable to always soak the brick in water and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to soak it. The fact is that brick is made of clay, and clay or clay-based mixtures are also used as mortar; it is practically a homogeneous material. Therefore, the clutch will be quite strong and tight. After applying a layer of mortar, we lay the brick and, lightly tapping with a pick, adjust it into place. The edges of the blower begin to emerge from the 2-3rd row. The order shown in Fig. 3.5, designed for heater stoves.

Step-by-step commentary on the order for a stove with a heater with explanations for each row.

• 0. The brick is laid solid, only leaving a half-window on the side (this will serve as both a blower for additional draft and a window for cleaning the chimney shaft).
• 1. The first row repeats the second, only the brick is placed in a bandage on the zero row.
• Bonding is a displacement of the subsequent row of brickwork by 50-30% for the stability and strength of the structure (pyramid). Each row in Fig. 5 is superimposed on another in the sequence 0,1,2,3,4,5, etc. When laying rows, halves and quarters will often be needed; they do not need to be split with a pick; it is better to use a grinder with a diamond blade and cut off the necessary part, rather than splitting bricks, producing unnecessary cracks. When distributing rows of stove masonry, try to ensure that the halves are inside the stove itself, but in no case in the chimney shafts. The walls of the shaft should be made of smooth brick and should not protrude into the shaft or be rough. With repeated use, soot gets stuck into the uneven surfaces, increasing in size over time. This is not scary and the chimney will perform its functions, but you will have to clean the chimney shafts more often.
• 2. Place it exactly like the zero one, only we leave the window - this is the beginning of the main chimney shaft.
• 3. Install the damper and begin laying the ash pan and doors. In general, in these figures 3.5 the stove is used for heating water and cooking and as a stove for a bath. As we know, the furnace part is usually located in the dressing room, and if the dressing room is spacious enough, then it usually serves as a dining room for gatherings after the bathhouse or in between. Therefore, there are two independent fireboxes, but with one chimney. The stove and fireboxes are located in the dressing room, and the heater itself is in the center of the bathhouse, that is, in the steam room. It should be noted here that this is an individual order - you can eliminate the slab and rows 4-5, reducing the compartment for stones, and remove 2 more rows, leaving zero, starting from the 3rd row, continue the order. Through permissible exceptions, we reduced the design of the stove by 60 cm. As a result, the stove turned out to be 2 m high.
• 4. The next row closes the damper, the shaft is laid across and a door is installed (soot is removed through this door when cleaning the shaft). The shafts are cleaned from above, and soot from the walls falls to the bottom of our chimney, where the door is on order 4. When you finish cleaning the chimney, open the door and remove the fallen soot. As we can see, the doors of the 2 main blowers are not covered yet, they are located one row below.
• 5. In this row we place the blower doors on top and move on to the combustion part. We install 2 jumpers made of 3 mm plates on each firebox (this is done for laying the brick and its stability over the voids). The arrow shows the main chimney shaft; it retains its shape in this row.
• 6. This row divides the main shaft into two windows, one is the main one, the second will be the slab shaft. We lay the bottom of the combustion chamber from refractory fireclay bricks and place a grate in the middle (through which ash and small coals fall off during the combustion process). When laying bricks, do not forget about the 3 mm strips. So that the brick does not hang in the air, but is placed on the foundation.
• 7. The next stage is the combustion chamber itself. The bricks, as you see in order 7, are laid with a spoon (on their side), and the firebox doors are installed. The chimney on this row remains the same shape.
• 8. Repeated without changes.
• When installing doors, we tie 2 wires at the bottom and 2 wires at the top. During the process of laying and installing doors, we place wire in the mortar between the bricks to secure the doors.
• 9. Almost repeats rows 7 and 8, but we put a jumper on the firebox above the doors. It is not shown here that the jumper must be installed on the second firebox, but it is better to be on the safe side and install it; it will not be superfluous, and the safety margin will be reliable - this is the main thing in any business. We install the jumpers, as in the 5th row, from a 3 mm plate, but only above the door the firebox niche is not yet finished.
• 10. Close the top of the door, the remaining elements remain unchanged. If the brick placed on the spoon sticks out from the row, as mentioned earlier, we cut it with a grinder with a diamond blade. All masonry elements must lie freely, without protruding bricks.

The area for each subsequent row must be level, do not forget about the vertical and horizontal levels when laying the row.

• 11. The firebox part ends on this row, as shown by the arrow on this row, there should be no brick in this place, we go through this row and install a slab on top of one firebox. On the second one, we do not place fireclay bricks on the sides. We will have this on both sides (when laying the box under the stones) of the chimney shaft. Where the arrow is shown, you can put a door instead of a brick to clean this part of the chimney, as 8 rows of the shaft need to be cleaned, and this window does not exist in this order. The only way to clean a chimney is to remove the stove so that the soot falls down and remove it from the shaft through the door.

The shafts must be cleaned all at once.

• 12. Next, the heater is assembled: install a box for stones and fill one of the shafts, leaving the main shaft. The slab is covered only from the sides.
• 13.14. The rows are laid without changes.
• 15. On this row we install a door for cleaning soot and expand the passage of the main shaft. The main row remains unchanged.

• 16. The row is unchanged, we only install jumpers (3 mm plates) on the main shaft.
• 17. Just like on row 6, we will half the main shaft and install 2 jumpers above the slab along the contour.
• 18. The entire row is unchanged, only jumpers are placed above the slab on the next row, the top of the slab is completely laid, forming a roof. A door is placed on this row for cleaning the chimney, but if the main chimney is straight, then this is not necessary; cleaning can be done one time from the top of the chimney, i.e. from the roof.
• 19.20. As mentioned earlier, we lay the top above the stove, everything else remains unchanged.
• 21. Repeat approximately rows 12-14, but only 2 shafts remain.
• 22.23. The shaft above the box for stones is combined with the shaft where the cross is located and narrows. When narrowing, be sure to cut off the edges, as shown in Fig. 4; inside the shaft there should be no protruding objects and, if desired, right angles.

Fig.4 Shows how to cut a brick when narrowing.

• 24. The shaft where the stone box is installed is completely filled, a niche is formed above the slab for drying shoes, and jumpers are placed on top. The main shaft remains.
• 25.26. Only the main chimney shaft remains. Then only the chimney itself is laid out.

Fig.5 Order: brick stove for a bathhouse, one of the options.

When under construction, ordering with a reduction is allowed only in the case of low ceilings. . The larger the stove with a sauna heater, the more heat it gives and retains when cooling. All of the above elements must be built into the sauna stove hermetically and strictly in size in relation to each other. When installing a stove for a bath, the order may involve a reduction or increase in the combustion or blower part, which brings with it a change in the size of other elements of the stove. The brick should be made of fired fireclay clay with low porosity. Hollow sand-lime bricks are definitely not suitable: over time, smoke will seep through the pores of the brick, and the room will resemble a smokehouse.

You, of course, will not get burned, but the smell of soot will always be present, and you can only get rid of it by re-placing the stove with a different fine-pored brick. a standard one is made, preferably using reinforcement in at least one layer.

For reference: during the construction of any elements, be it brickwork, tiling, sauna stove, wall, plaster or ceiling, there must be a safety margin - this is strictly necessary. Each material has its own safety factor for loads. It won’t be any worse if you exceed this safety margin, but you will be sure that your work will last not 10 years, but 200-300 without cracks or tears.

Kuznetsov Igor Viktorovich (Ekaterinburg) - specialist in the development and laying of brick kilns

Kuznetsov’s kilns are known not only in our homeland, but also to many foreign specialists and brick kiln lovers. Moreover, they not only know about them, but also very often order projects. Orders come from such “advanced” countries in the furnace business as Canada, Finland, USA, Sweden.

The uniqueness of Kuznetsov furnaces is that the efficiency of some models exceeds 80%, while the best foreign projects give a little more than 60%. Such high efficiency of thermal energy use is achieved thanks to two hoods in one furnace. The cap is a brick vault, closed or with a hole for the escape of gases, which is supported by brick columns. To save space, in some stove models, the second hood is located above the first; they are connected by a chimney or channels through which heated air moves.

This system allows you to maintain a stable high temperature (900-1200°C) in the lower bell for a long time, which makes it possible to completely burn out any fuel. In Kuznetsov furnaces, any fuel burns to ash in any weather. In this case, there is no need to strongly manipulate the dampers. They are used more often to provide non-standard operating modes.

In the upper bell, the temperature is much lower (200-400°C), which makes it possible to install heat exchangers and tanks for water and stones there without the risk that they will soon burn out. The division of the internal space of the furnace into two almost isolated zones is also good because the heat consumption for heating the water/stones at the top does not affect the weather in the lower hood - it remains high there.

Kuznetsov furnaces. Air movement design features

• 1 Kuznetsov bath stoves
• 2 Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stove: stages and features
• 3 Arrangement of the Kuznetsov P1 sauna stove
• 4 Photos of some models of Kuznetsov sauna stoves
• 5 Conclusion

Kuznetsov sauna stoves

There are many different designs of Kuznetsov stoves. Many furnaces of different sizes and purposes have been created. There are 17 varieties of standard Kuznetsov sauna stoves (BIK). To these you need to add two varieties of BIC BC, 14 options of BIC PC. What is the difference? The size, location of the firebox, stone oven, presence or absence of a fireplace, hob and some other features. There are Kuznetsov sauna stoves with a remote tank or a built-in one, and Kuznetsov sauna stoves for black-style saunas or with an open heater. In fact, there are so many of them that you can choose a more or less suitable stove from ready-made ones, if necessary, modifying it a little to suit your bathhouse.

Kuznetsov furnaces. Diversity

Why are Kuznetsov’s sauna stoves popular? There are many reasons for this:

• They are practically omnivorous. Any fuel burns to ash in them. And if it is not recommended to heat a bathhouse with any “left” fuel other than firewood, then any type of fuel will be suitable for heating a house.
• Such efficient combustion of fuel makes BIR very economical, while not only the bathhouse is heated, but also water (up to 170 liters) and stones.
• Even when using low-quality fuel, little soot is formed. If you heat with good dry wood (after all, you choose the best for a bath), you need to clean the stove much less often than stoves of other designs under similar operating conditions.
• The oven heats up evenly due to which, firstly, the heat is retained for a long time, and secondly, cracks rarely appear.
• Kuznetsov's sauna stoves not only prepare a sauna and keep it warm for a long time. They dry the room after the procedure. All this is thanks to the high heat capacity. At the same time, the next day the water in the tank remains warm enough to swim in.
• Long service life is guaranteed with a minimum of iron parts. The whole point is that there is too much difference in temperature expansion: metal parts expand much more, as a result, cracks appear in the masonry around them.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stove: stages and features

It all starts with the construction of the foundation. It should be unconnected to the main foundation of the bathhouse. Its size is 10-15 cm larger than the expected size of the stove. The height of the foundation for the stove is selected based on the height of the foundation of the bathhouse: they must end at the same level. Waterproofing (roofing felt, roofing felt) is laid on top of the finished base for the stove in two layers. The floor around the future furnace must have a fireproof coating. There are options: these are metal sheets, ceramic or porcelain tiles, natural or artificial stone, brick, etc.

After making the foundation, you need to take care of preparing the mortar for laying the stove. To build a brick kiln, they use clay, not cement. And not just any one, but only one that lies at a depth of at least 2 meters. The clay is sifted and washed out, preparing a solution of the desired viscosity.

To determine the required amount of bricks for building a kiln, we count the number of bricks in the first row of the order, multiply by 0.8 (the average fill factor of the rows) and by the number of rows. This amount of brick is definitely enough for the stove, even taking into account broken bricks and rejection. For a brick pipe, you need to add 4-6 bricks for each row.

Kuznetsov recommends solid clay bricks for his stoves, grade M150 and higher. Dimensions 250x120x65mm. The thickness of the seam is about 5mm. It turns out that each row with a seam has a height of 7cm. It is not recommended to use fire-resistant brick for external masonry: it heats up more, which increases the fire hazard of the stove, and you can seriously get burned on such a stove. Fireclay bricks are used for masonry in those places that are in direct contact with fire. ShB-8 (250x123x65mm) and Sh-5 (230x114x40mm) are recommended.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stove

When laying sauna stoves, Kuznetsov recommends reinforcing the outer masonry: laying a strip of metal mesh in each even seam (or odd, as it turns out). Lay the strip at a distance of about 1 cm from the outer edge of the masonry. It is better to take a galvanized mesh from a rod 1 mm thick. In this case, a strip with a cell of 50*20mm (two cells) fits comfortably.

When laying fireclay bricks, they are placed “on edge” without achieving 100% coincidence with the order - the sizes of fireclay vary. They are laid “with dressing”, if necessary, cutting off excess or adding missing pieces (you cannot cut along). Fireclay bricks are placed above the metal casting. Moreover, it is also laid “on its edge”. The resulting voids are eliminated either by adjusting the bricks to shape, or by adding pieces sawn in half, into quarters (in plates) so that everything “fits” into the overall plan.

Since fireclay brick heats up more strongly and its coefficient of expansion is greater, a gap (about 5 mm) must be left between the outer masonry and the refractory inner one, which will compensate for the difference in the expansion of the materials. Basalt or mullite-silica cardboard can be placed in this gap; basalt wool can be placed in the vertical gaps.

A heat-insulating lining is also required under the metal parts of the stove. The casting is not installed close to the masonry, but with a 5mm gap, into which basalt cardboard or gypsum cord is placed, which is used to wrap the parts in contact with the bricks. You can also use other heat-insulating material of mineral origin. The only important thing is that it can withstand very high temperatures. To make the doors better, a “bed” is cut out in the lower bricks for them. Pieces of wire or thin metal plates are attached to the corners of the doors, which are placed in the seams between the rows, thus securing the doors in the masonry.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stove

The stone cabinet must be made of heat-resistant steel that can withstand temperatures of 1000°C. For a more durable structure, it is not recommended to use seams on the bottom of the cabinet. The bottom must be bent. And on the short side of the stone oven you need to weld small lengths of corners - they will give greater rigidity to the structure without limiting thermal expansion.

When laying a stove according to the order, measuring the height after each row is not at all necessary. Two things are important: the horizontality of the rows (checked by the building level) and compliance with the difference indicated in the drawing between the top of the outer (calculated by multiplying the row number by 7cm) and the inner masonry (indicated in the drawings). For example, on the order of the Kuznetsov stove for the P1 bathhouse below, in the 19th row the height of the internal masonry is indicated as 132 cm. To find out what the difference in height should be, 19*7cm=133cm. It turns out that the difference should be 1 cm. This gap is necessary to compensate for the difference in temperature expansion. If it is not there, the outer masonry will simply fall apart under the pressure of the inner one.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stove

Kuznetsov does not recommend wetting the brick for the stove (only the secondary one needs to be wetted): this is necessary when working with cement mortar, not clay. If all the bricks for the stove are wet, then the total weight of the fresh stove is very decent. A large amount of moisture significantly increases the drying time. A significant drying time means long use at low temperatures. During this time, a large amount of soot can accumulate, so cleaning may be required immediately.

There is one more nuance: the oven must be dried and burned. Even if you don't intend to use it yet. If a new, unburned stove is not used for some time, during its first fire (sometimes also during the second) a burning smell may appear: there is a lot of moisture left in the bricks and masonry, in combination with soot, this effect is obtained.

Arrangement of the Kuznetsov P1 sauna stove

The order of this stove was taken from the official website of the stove maker Kuznetsov. The available explanations and diagram of the register and thermal insulation of the stove door are also from there. There are several projects with ordering that are freely available on the site, but most of them are inaccessible.

Arrangement of the Kuznetsov sauna stove BIK P1

Arrangement of the Kuznetsov sauna stove BIK P1

Arrangement of the Kuznetsov sauna stove BIK P1

Arrangement of the Kuznetsov sauna stove BIK P1

Looking at those projects that can be downloaded by anyone, you are amazed at the simplicity and elegance of the solutions. All that remains is to fold everything correctly and use it.

Photos of some models of Kuznetsov sauna stoves

Fragment of furnace 18.BIK "Russauna"

Model 19. BIK-K

31.BIK - Kuznetsov furnace in action

8.BIK - oven with a built-in steam generator. Water is poured into the funnel using a ladle

Conclusion

It should be noted that laying brick ovens is an art. It takes years to learn the secrets. Especially for those who want to understand all the secrets of laying Kuznetsov stoves, seminars are conducted personally by Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov. Each stove maker who successfully completes the training at the seminar is issued a personalized certificate - this must be taken into account if you plan to hire a stove laying specialist, Kuznetsov.

Few people can doubt the benefits of bath procedures, and many people dream of taking a steam bath in their own bathhouse.

Not only experienced stove makers, but also novice craftsmen can build a brick stove for a bathhouse. By following the instructions and recommendations, you can build a bathhouse on your site and create not only a comfortable place to relax, but also build an entire architectural masterpiece.

Peculiarities

Nothing gives such pleasant warmth, a comfortable atmosphere, and easy breathing as being in a sauna with a brick stove. In order for a self-built stove to turn out at the proper level, you must strictly follow all instructions. Even with little construction skills, you can make an excellent furnace for a bathhouse.

First of all, you need to decide which stove option is more suitable for a particular room.

Let's consider options for heating a brick stove for a bath:

• In black. Such stoves have been especially popular in villages for many years. The peculiarity of this design is that there is no chimney, so there will be plenty of steam and aroma in the room. The disadvantage of this option is that you need to wait until the fuel burns out completely.
• On gray. This option is more economical. The stove has a chimney, so the room warms up faster. Like the previous option, there is a drawback: you need to wait until the wood is completely burned.
• In white. This option can be called the most worthy, since when used in the room there will be no traces of soot, and the room will remain warm for a long time. But it takes a lot of time to warm up such a stove, which is not always convenient for use.
• With stove. This option for a bath can be considered the most successful. The design consists of a tank, which is installed on a plate made of cast iron and bath stones. The tank is closed on 3 sides by a brick wall, due to which the water temperature remains high for a long time. More often, the tank is installed on top of the firebox, and stones are laid above the chimney, but sometimes both the tank and the stones can be placed in a different order.

The simplest option is to build a heater that needs to be heated over gray.

The heater will not leave steam lovers indifferent. This design consists of a combustion chamber over which stones are placed.

Thanks to the thickness of the brick and massive stones, the room will remain warm for a long time. After the procedure is completed, the room is ventilated, water is poured onto the stones to remove soot. After cleaning, the room is ready for new procedures.

A sauna stove can vary in size, but most often you can find options with a base size of 890*1020 mm, which corresponds to a laying of 3.5*4 bricks, or with a size of 1020*1290 mm (laying 4*5 bricks). The standard height of the stove can be 168 or 210 cm, not taking into account the height of the chimney pipe.

The choice of oven type should be individual. When choosing, you should study various materials, watch photos and videos, study projects and then make the final choice.

Advantages and disadvantages

There are many models of sauna stoves. This is a structure made of brick or iron, which can be purchased in stores or made independently. But will a homemade stove model be more economical or should you give preference to store-bought options? You need to figure it out.

Since ancient times, to wash and cleanse the body, people have poured water onto hot stones to enjoy the hot steam. Later they began to build stoves that were heated in a black way; water was also splashed from a ladle onto the stones to create hot steam in the room. Modern designs have a smoke exhaust, but some lovers of Russian baths still take black steam.

A brick or stone oven has many advantages:

• the room remains warm for a long time;
• excellent steam quality;
• have greater power and are able to heat a large area of ​​the room;
• do not require additional fire protection measures;
• pleasant microclimate;
• even at very high temperatures, the material does not emit toxic substances;
• Thanks to its aesthetic appearance, you can create an unusual atmosphere in the bathhouse.

The material for production is brick, it looks very beautiful, so finishing work in the form of cladding or plaster is not necessary. But if there is a desire, You can use decorative finishing with stone or tiles, tiles.

Having made a brick stove with your own hands, you can enjoy the result of your work for many years, carry out bath procedures, and enjoy being in a room with pleasant steam. Since a brick was chosen for construction, which is capable of accumulating heat when heated, it will maintain the temperature in the steam room for a long time.

As fuel, they use available materials that can be found on any personal plot in the form of branches, sticks, dry grass, wood chips, moss, or they can be purchased at the store.

If you want to make an experimental version, rather than a simple design, you should seek the help of specialists, otherwise there may be flaws in the work. If technological errors are made, the oven may take a long time to heat up and maintain the temperature poorly. In addition, you will have to use much more firewood or other fuel.

Brick stoves may also have disadvantages:

• the structure is heavy, so it is necessary to build a foundation;
• high cost of materials, including bricks, steel and cast iron elements;
• payment to a professional stove-maker, if you do not carry out all the work yourself;
• the masonry must be perfect, otherwise instead of joy during bath procedures you can get problems;
• long heating time - about 3 hours.

The simplest option would be to purchase a finished product. If we consider more simplified options for a bathhouse, we can choose metal stoves.

Kinds

A brick stove for a bath can be divided into two categories:

• permanent action;
• periodic action.

In the first option, the place for the stones will be on a metal floor or in a box. In this case, the heating of the stone backfill does not occur by fire, but heat is transferred from one material to another. But in another case, the fire will pass directly through the stones.

When choosing a stove for a sauna, many do not quite understand the difference between a Russian and a Finnish sauna.

For a Russian bath, the optimal temperature is 60 degrees with a humidity of 50%. A brick stove with a closed heater is more suitable. In a Finnish sauna, the temperature reaches 90 degrees with a humidity of 5-15%. The higher the humidity, the lower the temperature will be; as it increases, the steam will be significantly less.

It is important to understand that a heating and cooking brick stove cannot be used for a bath. The brick construction for a bathhouse is very different from a domestic home firebox. For a household stove, the main task is to heat the structure itself and use it to generate and maintain heat.

For a sauna stove, the main task is maximum heating and the use of stone backfill to maintain the required temperature in the room and to create steam.

The division of furnaces into types is also determined by the choice of fuel required for it. You can opt for a unit that runs on electricity, wood or gas.

Each unit has both advantages and disadvantages. Wood stoves are considered inexpensive and reliable. A unit that runs only on wood is more suitable for areas where interruptions in electricity or gas are possible. When installing a structure in a bathhouse that only runs on wood, you need to understand that it will be difficult to heat up the steam room quickly. In addition, you should maintain the required temperature yourself, as well as remove ashes from the stove. A brick oven allows you to use a variety of fuels.

Even the smallest simple stove for a Russian bath should not be built without a detailed diagram. Before starting work, you should write a detailed plan, draw drawings, and indicate the required dimensions.

When studying all the issues, it is important to understand that installing a sauna stove is impossible without following fire safety rules.

The brick product should be erected near the wall opposite the shelves in the steam room e. When creating a project, you need to take into account that the distance between the heating part of the unit and the place that supports combustion must be at least 40 cm. When choosing special protection, for example, made of asbestos cardboard, the distance can be reduced to 20 cm.

If you plan to have a stove with a water tank, then you can weld a good, high-quality product yourself. The main thing here is not its manufacture, but its installation. Before starting work, you should decide on the capacity of the water heating tank. The design can be either closed or open. Experts recommend using an open container, since filling it and caring for it will be much more convenient. You should not leave water in the tank in winter so that it does not freeze there..

No one will argue that the bathhouse serves not only for washing the body, it is a place for relaxation, here you can get rid of ailments and simply improve your vitality and mood.

The properly constructed oven in the steam room determines how well the procedure can be carried out. One One of the most popular models is the stove with a firebox in the dressing room.

For maximum comfort, you can build a heated floor in the bathhouse. This design has long become familiar to owners of steam rooms. In addition, to use it you do not need to be connected to the electrical network, because the coolant is hot water heated by the firebox. When using a metallized substrate, thermal energy will not be wasted.

Material selection

When performing work on laying the stove, you should prepare the necessary tools and materials. The main material for constructing a bathhouse structure is brick.

In the construction of furnace structures, more often two types of brick are used: fireclay and red brick. Fireclay brick is pale yellow in color and is made up of fireclay. It has better characteristics compared to other types of material, but the price of such a product will also be higher than its analogues. Fireclay brick can withstand high temperatures very well; it is laid in areas that will be subject to prolonged thermal stress. It is ideal for laying out space near the firebox.

Red brick is used for other structural elements. You can make a stove only from fireclay bricks, but its cost is much higher than red bricks, so combined masonry will reduce the cost of the structure.

When purchasing material for the stove, you should carefully inspect it. The standard brick size is 125*250*65 mm. A slight deviation of 2 mm is allowed. Upon examination you need to make sure there are no cracks or chips, only minor grooves and thread-like cracks are allowed. When choosing a material, you should make sure that the material meets the specified parameters. Sometimes products from different manufacturers or even different batches of the same manufacturer may differ.

The oven must be perfectly level, so the bricks must be the same size, otherwise smoke will begin to leak through the cracks and over time the firebox may fall apart. It is not recommended to purchase a product with film, which resembles mica. This means that there was a defect in the manufacturing process.

When purchasing bricks, you should do this with a reserve, since during the laying process you will need to cut it. To cut it to the required size, you can take a grinder with discs.

When building a house, the seam between the bricks can be up to 10 mm; for stoves such a thickness is simply unacceptable. Already with a thickness of more than 4 mm, with constant heating, the seam will begin to crumble, and smoke will begin to flow into the room.

In addition to the main material, you should prepare:

• a container where you can soak the brick;
• clay and sand for mortar;
• container where the solution will be mixed;
• sand sieve;
• a chimney pipe, which you can purchase in a store or make yourself;
• steel wire, which will be needed when installing the combustion chamber and the blower door;
• trestles for working at height;
• roofing felt, asbestos;
• construction tape, rope, level, pencil.

To check the quality of the material, you need to hit it lightly. If a ringing sound is heard after the impact, then the brick is without defects, but if a dull sound is heard, most likely there is a crack there.

Let us remind you once again that it is better to choose fireclay and fire-resistant red bricks, but heat-resistant alumina and clinker bricks for the furnace may be suitable. Fireclay bricks are used to lay out the fire core; other options are used to line external walls and decorative elements.

The color of a material can indicate its quality. It should be uniform. Uneven color means that the product was fired unevenly, so the strength of the brick will vary in different areas.

It is advisable to select one brick and break it to inspect it. There should be no foreign inclusions, and the color should be free of dark spots. If there is a dark color in the middle, such a brick should not be used for the construction of stoves and other buildings.

To make a high-quality furnace lining, you should choose a material marked with the letter “M” with numbers that indicate the permissible load per 1 square meter. cm. The best choice would be a brick with a grade of at least M-150.

After everything is prepared, you can proceed directly to the work itself.

Construction stages

Any construction work must be carried out according to instructions, diagrams and drawings. When drawing up a project for a future bathhouse, you should indicate important features - the appearance of the structure, the type of masonry and the location of each individual brick, because the service life will depend on this. When building a brick stove for a bathhouse, you cannot do without the advice of experienced stove makers. Among the many masonry options, it is worth choosing the most suitable one for a particular room. When drawing up a project, you can make any changes and adjustments.

Regardless of which masonry method was chosen, the project consists of the following basic elements:

• from a firebox, which is better lined with fireclay bricks;
• chimney, for which red ceramic or hollow (silicate) brick is chosen;
• water tank;
• an ash pit, which usually consists of a cast iron stove, firebox, and oven where bath accessories are stored.

Foundation

The structure must be strong and reliable, so it is impossible to do without erecting a strong, reliable foundation. In principle, the foundation for a sauna stove is very similar to the arrangement of a strip foundation.

To create the foundation you need:

• Mark the foundation and drive pegs into the corners.
• Stretch a rope between the pegs to make it easier to navigate.
• The size of the platform must correspond to the dimensions of the stove base. The pit is dug 60 cm deep, at the bottom 15 cm the hole is expanded to the sides by 10 cm.
• The lower part of the foundation is covered with sand, and a layer of broken brick or crushed stone is poured on top. The filled crushed stone is compacted and a waterproofing layer in the form of roofing felt is laid.
• Next, formwork is installed along the contour of the pit. To assemble it, you need to take boards and screws.
• A reinforcing mesh consisting of rods is placed in the pit. You need to leave a gap of 5 cm between the wall of the pit and the mesh; for this, use stands or other fasteners.
• Concrete is poured into the pit, leaving 15 cm to the surface, and the top should be leveled. This gap is needed for laying the starting row of bricks.

After this, the filling should be allowed to settle for 5-7 days, and then the formwork should be dismantled. Gravel is poured into the voids, covered with bitumen and a layer of roofing material is laid. This procedure should be carried out again. This two-layer insulation will protect the furnace from groundwater.

Preparation of the solution

Conventional cement mortar is not suitable for constructing a furnace, as it does not withstand high temperatures. To prepare a solution for a sauna stove, you need to take clay and sand. The best option would be to use red or fireclay clay, this will ensure a longer service life of the structure. In addition to clay, it is necessary to prepare sand, which is first sifted through a sieve. This removes debris, small stones, and muddy inclusions.

There are also certain requirements for the water used for the solution. It should be clean, without a musty smell.

To lay hundreds of bricks, you need to use up to 20 liters of water.

To prepare the solution, the clay must be kept in water for several days until it becomes soaked. Before work, the clay is diluted with water, sand is added and the solution is brought to the state of thick sour cream.

Using a nozzle or a construction mixer, get rid of lumps of clay and make the solution ready for use. To determine the optimal viscosity of the solution, it is recommended to dip a stick into the solution and shake it off. If after shaking the layer of solution on the stick remains more than 3 mm, sand should be added. If it is less than 2 mm, you need to add clay. The consistency should resemble plasticine. The optimal layer thickness should be 2 mm.

Bricklaying

If you are laying a brick sauna stove for the first time without any special skills, a small model that will not be too complicated will do. The simplest option is to arrange a combustion chamber and ash chamber, install a water tank, and a place for a chimney. You can build a more serious structure once you gain some experience in the furnace business.

To build a high-quality stove in a bathhouse, you need an order, that is, a detailed diagram of where the bricks will be placed.

Experienced craftsmen advise taking the time to build the lower part of the furnace without using mortar.

During the work process, the selected bricks are numbered, cuts are made, and pieces of the desired shape and size are prepared. Only after this can you begin work using the solution.

Before starting work, the bricks are soaked in water until bubbles appear, this will improve adhesion and protect the solution from dehydration. Using fireclay bricks, they are immersed in water to remove dust.

The masonry scheme should start from the zero row. This is done in order to bring the foundation level with the floor. The first row is laid out with special care. Using a plumb line, the verticality of the stove walls will be further checked using the bricks of the first row.

When laying the first row, it is laid dry, without using mortar; in the future, the layer of mortar should be 3-6 mm. The solution is applied to the bonded part of the brick and the whole layer. After laying, the brick is pressed by tapping with a trowel. To make the structure more durable, bricks are laid with an offset of the next row of up to 50%, overlapping the joints.

The laying is done according to the order, in this case:

• the solution is applied to the previous row;
• the smooth side of the brick should be directed towards the chimney;
• after each row, a vertical and horizontal check is carried out;
• After 3-4 rows it is necessary to remove the remaining solution.

To secure the blower door in row 3, take galvanized wire or a strip of steel and screw it into the corners. Using a grinder, grooves are cut out in the bricks, where the iron wire will be lowered. The area where the door touches the stove is insulated with asbestos.

In row 5, notches are cut out of steel for the corners. The grate bars are laid on the corners. If they burn out, they can be easily replaced with new ones. In addition, expanding when heated, the grate will not destroy the brickwork. At this stage, they begin to work on the combustion chamber, after which they continue to raise the outer wall.

Fireclay bricks are used to form the combustion chamber. After the combustion chamber, a cast-iron stove is installed, on which stones for the bath will later be laid.

To determine what capacity is needed for the tank, it is calculated that about 10 liters are needed to wash one steamer, and the same amount is needed to steam a broom.

To make the structure more reliable, row spacing is reinforced every 4 rows.

After closing the furnace and installing the valves, they proceed to forming the chimney.

Chimney

When constructing a chimney, it is taken into account that a pipe made of iron will create condensation during temperature changes, which will lead to the accumulation of soot in the pipe, Therefore, it is worth choosing brick for the chimney.

The size of the chimney must correspond to the size of the stove structure. After the chimney has been folded, it is brought above the roof to a height of at least half a meter. Typically, an asbestos pipe is used for the chimney, which is lined with brick.

How the smoke will be removed from the room will depend on how correctly the work is carried out.

Only whole bricks should be placed in the chimney so that halves or cracked elements cannot fall out. The chimney should be laid out very carefully; the surface must be absolutely flat, otherwise dust and soot will begin to accumulate in the cracks, which will lead to rapid clogging of the shaft.

The chimney channel must not be narrowed. During construction, it is taken into account that it the length from the grate to the edges of the pipe should not be less than 5 meters. If you make it smaller, the smoke will not be able to cool quickly, and the heat will begin to fly out into the chimney.

To protect the ceiling from fire, where the pipe passes through the ceiling, it is wrapped in heat-resistant material and lined with brick. The outside of the chimney is covered with lime. If there is a smoke leak, you can immediately understand where it is happening.

After all work is completed, the stove is allowed to stand for several days to dry. To do this, doors and windows in the room are left open.

Then a test fire is carried out. To do this, take small wood chips and heat the stove for 10-15 minutes. This is done several times over several days. If there is condensation on the unit, this means that it is not completely dry yet. After final drying, you can use the stove continuously.

Surface finishing

If desired, you can do the finishing touches. Among the most popular options, it is worth noting tiling. This option is not difficult to make, and the finishing material is not very expensive.

In order for ceramic tiles to adhere well, you need to choose the right material. Let's consider the optimal tile options:

• Terracotta. It is made by dry pressing with a colored base. The tile has good adhesion, high strength, and a porous base.
• Majolica. It is made in the same way as the previous version. Such products look very beautiful due to the application of glaze.
• Clinker. It is produced by combining a mixture of different clays with the inclusion of fireclay powder and dyes. The addition of refractory powder makes stove tiles the best option.

When tiling the stove, you need to consider how the tiles or other material will fit into the interior of the room.

You can decorate the sauna stove with decorative brick or stone. For this, porcelain stoneware, marble, granite, and coils are used.

Since ancient times, tiles have been used to cover village stoves and portals; such a device is still very popular today.

In addition to their beautiful appearance, tiles will provide additional properties:

• long-lasting heat transfer;
• high heat capacity;
• hygiene.

With proper care, decorative elements will delight lovers of bath treatments for a long time. Caring for products consists of regularly wiping them from dust and soot; if elements are damaged, they are restored and replaced.